Anyone else getting tired of winter yet?
I am definitely looking forward to those first signs of spring. One of my favorite things is seeing the first purple Crocus peek up through the ground. What a cheery sight and a welcome reminder that warmer days are on the way.

I want to say thank you to all Woodford County Master Gardeners who returned their surveys. We had a good response. Our schedule for this year's meetings, potlucks, and tours is at right. It should be a fun year. I also anticipate many opportunities to set up our information booth at community festivals and horticulture events throughout the year. A few extra potlucks/tours to be held in June and September will be discussed at the next meeting. Hope to see you there!

Cynthia Baer,
Woodford County Director

Following a few suggestions can prolong the beauty of flowers given on Valentine's Day and other special occasions. Whether you are giving roses, carnations, mums, or some other type of flower, you want them to last.

Start by buying young flowers. Young rose buds have just their outer petals open, show no browning, and on red roses, there is no noticeable 'blue blush' showing through the red. The flower head stands straight up – the stem just below the
flower has not become limp so that the flower head leans to the side.

The best carnations are not fully expanded and show no browning or wilting. Spike flowers like snapdragons and gladiolas should have the top third of the spike with the flowers still in bud. Daisy-like flowers should have the center look like a smooth flat to roundish button with a slight green color rather than a fuzzy-looking button.

Whether cut or potted, always check flower age. Check for browning and other aging/injury problems and check for wilting. Old flowers, diseased flowers, and wilted flowers have a short life expectancy.

Avoiding frost and freeze damage is another way to make gift flowers last longer. Make sure that there is adequate protection on the cut flowers and potted plants. Since heat rises, an opening at the top of wrapped cut flowers or sleeved potted plants lets the heat out and the cold in.

Make sure that the wrapping or sleeve folds over to cover this opening before leaving the store to go to your car. Also consider how cold the car is inside and how long it will take you to get home. The paper used to protect your plants is only a short-term protection. If the cut flowers or potted plant remain in the cold too long, the flowers will not last.

Cut flowers need to be placed in water as soon as possible to reduce the chance of wilting. Those receiving cut flowers should cut about one to two inches of the stems under water and, if possible, put the flowers into a vase while still under water. This prevents air bubbles from interfering with the uptake of water.

Change the water in vases frequently – at least once a day. If a preservative is used, do not use all the preservative on the first day. If no preservative is available, it becomes more important to change the water daily.

Changing the water frequently will reduce decay and its foul odor. Potted plants should be moist but not wet. Keep them cool and in lots of bright light but not in direct sun.

James Schuster, Horticulture Educator
University of Illinois Extension

Summer bulbs are summer-blooming plants that have some type of underground storage structure. They are not cold hardy and will not survive the winter outside. These plants need to be dug at the end of the season and the storage structure kept indoors until the following planting season (after the danger of frost has passed).

Tuberous begonias, (Begonia x tuberhybrida) grow from a tuber. The plants range from 12-18" tall (there are also trailing types) and come in a wide range of flower colors, from pastels to brights. Bloom time is from summer into autumn.

Begonias should be planted about 1" deep, with the concave side of the tuber facing up and spaced about 9-12" apart. They do best in partial shade. Keep soil evenly moist, but not wet. Avoid wetting the foliage since disease can be a problem with begonias.

Caladiums (Caladium x hortulanum or Caladium bicolor) grow from a tuber. The plants grow 1-2' tall and have colored foliage in a mix of red, pink, green and white. These plants are grown for their beautiful foliage, not flowers.

Caladiums should be planted about 1" deep, with the knobby side of the tuber facing up and spaced about 8-12" apart. They do best in partial shade, although there are some newer varieties that tolerate sun. Keep soil evenly moist, but not wet.

Calla Lilies (Zantedeschia species and hybrids) grow from a rhizome that looks somewhat like a tuber. Plants grow 1-4' tall and have waxy, trumpet-like flowers in a wide range of colors. Bloom time occurs in mid to late summer.

Plant calla lilies about 1" deep and space the rhizomes about 1-2' apart. Callas like full sun. Keep soil evenly moist to wet.

Cannas (Canna x generalis) grow from a rhizome. Plants range from 2-7' tall, depending on the variety grown. Cannas are grown for both flowers and foliage; they come in a wide range of flower colors (red, orange, yellow, pink, some bicolors) and some cultivars have colored foliage as well. Bloom time is summer into autumn.

Cannas should be planted about 3-4" deep. Plant the rhizomes horizontally and space them about 18-24" apart. Cannas prefer full sun and the best growth occurs in a rich soil with a good supply of moisture.

Dahlias (Dahlia hybrids) grow from tuberous roots. Plants range from 12 inches to 8 feet tall. There are also a wide variety of flower types including anemone-flowered, ball, pompom, cactus, semi-cactus and others. Dahlias also come in a wide range of flower sizes and colors. Bloom time is from summer into fall.

Plant dahlias with the crown (the end with the buds) just above soil level. Spacing of the tuberous roots depends on the mature size of the plant; dahlias that will reach 3 feet or less should be spaced about 2 feet apart; larger plants should be spaced about 3 feet apart. Most dahlias will need staking.

Dahlias prefer full sun. Keep soil evenly moist, but not wet. To obtain larger flowers allow only one shoot to develop. Disbudding will also lead to larger flowers (flower buds come in threes, remove the two side buds).

Elephant Ears (Colocasia esculenta) grow from a tuber. Plants are 3-3 ½ ' tall, with large, tropical-looking leaves. They are grown for foliage, not flowers.

Plant the tuber 4-6" deep, with blunt end down and space the tubers 2-3 feet apart. Elephant Ears like full sun to partial shade and a moist to wet soil. Protect the plant from wind, as the large leaves can be easily damaged.

Gladiolus (Gladiolus x hortulanus) grows from a corm. The plants range from 1-5' tall, and the flowers come in a wide range of colors. Bloom time is mid-summer.

Plant corms 4-6" deep and space them about 3-6" apart. Gladiolus likes full sun. Keep soil evenly moist, but not wet. Protect from wind (staking may be needed). Many of these bulbs will be showing up in garden centers in March. Buy them soon and start them inside for earlier bloom outside.

Sandra Mason, Horticulture Educator
University of Illinois Extension

By the middle of February you may be getting cabin fever and can't wait to get outside into your garden. A good way to get over the winter hump is to start flowers and vegetables from seed indoors transplanting outdoors. Growing plants from seed is inexpensive, easy, and efficient. The biggest advantage is a much wider variety of plants and cultivars are available from seed than from ready-to-buy transplants.

Materials needed to begin seeds indoors are not expensive or elaborate. The minimum supplies required are: clean containers with drainage holes (pots, flats, peat pots, plastic cups, or the bottom of milk cartons with drainage holes punched in), clean potting soil or seed starting mix (do not use garden soil from outdoors), light (either natural or shoplight with new cool white florescent bulbs), and water.

Transplants can be successfully grown in the natural light of a south or west window, but most gardeners prefer using artificial light to supplement the natural light. Artificial light alone is also very effective. The key to using artificial light is keeping the light source within two to four inches of the top of the plant. As the plants grow, the lights should be raised to maintain the 2 to 4 inch space between the plants and light. Cool white fluorescents provide adequate light for seedlings and will not get too hot. Make sure you purchase new fluorescent bulbs each year because fluorescents dramatically decrease in light output as they age.

Most germinating seeds and young seedlings prefer air and soil temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature should be lowered 5 to 10 degrees after the first set of leaves appears. Reduced temperatures promote shorter stockier plants.

Plants with a long interval between planting and flower or fruit production, such as impatiens, broccoli, and tomatoes, are ideal candidates for starting indoors.

Before starting seeds indoors planting date should be calculated based on optimal transplant time. Figuring the date to start seed takes a little arithmetic or, for the math impaired, counting weeks on the calendar.

Base your calculations on the average last spring frost date, which is April 15 in central Illinois. [Note: Be aware that this date is an average, which means that 50 percent of the time, the last frost comes after this date. In recent years, it has been common to have frost even in mid-May. Take this into consideration when timing planting]. Cautious gardeners use May 5, so they don't have to worry about a late frost. Keep in mind that the plant's tolerance to cold temperatures determines transplant date. For example, tomatoes are damaged by frost and must be transplanted on or after the frost-free date. In contrast, broccoli are very cold hardy and may be transplanted outside four weeks before the average last frost date.

Check the seed packet or catalog for the recommended sowing time and transplant time. Starting from the outdoor transplanting date, count back the number of weeks the plant will need to germinate and grow to the proper size in order to get the seeds sowing date.

Plant the seeds in pre-moistened potting soil at the depth listed on the seed package or, in lieu of directions, at a depth two times the seed's diameter. Because most people have difficulty thinning out extra plants, the seeds should be spaced an adequate distance apart to give the seedlings room to grow. (An easy way to thin seedlings is to cut off the extra plants at the soil line using small scissors.) Many gardeners cover the newly sown flats or pots with plastic until the seeds germinate so that moisture is maintained in the potting mix.

Seedlings should be watered sufficiently to keep the potting mix evenly moist, but not wet. Wet soil creates two problems: cold that inhibits germination and root growth, and dampness that is a good medium for fungal disease development.

Quarter to half strength fertilizer should be added with the water once a week after seedlings have true leaves. Use a complete fertilizer with nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Excess fertilizer will burn tender roots and promote weak spindly growth.

Barbara Larson, Horticulture Educator
University of Illinois Extension

Sesame Street's cookie monster says "cookies! give me cookies!" gardeners say "plants, give me plants!". The easiest and quickest way to get more perennial flowers is to divide existing plants in spring. Gardeners are very generous with their plants. In addition. most perennials perform better if they are divided periodically. Plus divisions have the advantage of maintaining the parent's characteristics. If you need many plants and have some patience, perennials can be started from seed.

Seeds may be required to obtain some perennials that are not readily available as plants. There is also something quite satisfying in starting plants from seed. It's also cheaper than psychological counseling for cabin fever.

Some perennials are easy by seed. Columbine, purple coneflower and black-eyed Susan will naturally self-sow. As the flowers brown and ripen, the seeds fall to the soil to germinate the next season. If self-sowing is desired, be sure to let old flowers remain on plant until seeds ripen and refrain from heavy mulching in self-sown areas. Keep in mind seeds from hybrids will generally not produce plants exactly like the parent.

Some perennial flower seeds require very specific conditions before they will germinate. Seeds come programmed to germinate at the appropriate time when the seeds have the best chance of survival. Do some homework to discover specifics for the plants of interest. Patience is a requirement when starting perennials from seed. Most do not flower the first year from seed and some may take several years.

The most common form of seed dormancy is seed impermeability. In other words the seed coat does not allow water to be absorbed. Water is necessary to get the germination gears moving.

Nature provides this treatment in some plants with the help of birds. Birds eat the seeds then deposit them in a nice mound of fertilizer. You could follow birds around and take your chances. A better method is to soak seeds overnight or nick seed coat with a sharp knife or a quick swipe or two with sandpaper. There is no need to take the complete seed coat off. Plants in the bean, tomato or morning glory family often have hard seed coats.

Plants that are native to cold climates may also need a period of cool weather followed by warm weather. Yes, some things actually need cold.

The easiest way to supply a cool period is to plant seeds in fall so they experience a natural winter. Unfortunately these seeds are subject to the perils of outdoor living. Planting seeds in pots and placing in a cold frame or protected area outdoors will also work.

A more controlled method is cool stratification. Most of our seeds will need a cool moist period of 34-41 degrees F. Place seeds in plastic bag with moist sand or sphagnum moss. Place in refrigerator for at least four weeks. The timing again will depend on the plant specifics. Seeds do not need to freeze and freezing may actually slow down the process. Refrigerator is best for most. This method also seems to get most seeds on the same page so they germinate at the same time.

After the recommended pre-conditioning, seeds can be sown indoors similarly to producing annual flowers and vegetable transplants. Some perennials are notorious for slow germination. If the seeds don't germinate the first year, place the container outside in summer and keep it watered. Seeds may germinate the next year or the next. Did I mention patience as a prerequisite?

Try these books for some good reading about plant propagation:

The Complete Book of Plant Propagation by Jim Arbury et al.

Making More Plants by Ken Druse

From Seed to Bloom by Eileen Powell

Plant Propagation: Principles and Practices textbook by Hartman, Kester and Davies.

Sandra Mason, Horticulture Educator
University of Illinois Extension

You won't find any vacation brochures about greywater rafting. There isn't any level 5 greywater. Greywater is not nearly that exciting because it's waste water from showers, bathtubs, dishwashers, washing machines and sinks. It's basically any household water other than toilet water. About 65 percent of domestic wastewater is greywater. That can translate into as much as 40 gallons per person per day. For a family of 4 that's about 5,000 gallons of greywater a month which just about fills a backyard swimming pool.

What is in the greywater varies with its source, but may include: bacteria, foam, hair, grease, soaps, detergents, oils and food particles. Sounds gross I know, but often the water is quite clean. Just think of how many gallons we use just waiting to get that perfect temperature for our showers.

With drought and conservation in mind, I've been thinking a lot about water and all the fresh water or just slightly "used" water that goes down the drain. I look at my thirsty plants and I feel guilty. Lately I feel like the bad guy in all those desert movies. You know the one that drinks the last drop of water from the canteen while the thirsty good guys melt into their clothes.

While greywater doesn't need extensive treatment before it can be used for landscape watering, some precautions should be kept in mind.

– Apply greywater directly to soil not onto plants. Subsurface application is even better.

– Use greywater within 24 hours of collecting it. Do not store it for long periods.

– Avoid using greywater on edible crops especially root crops such as carrots which may be eaten uncooked. Even better, use greywater only on ornamentals.

– Use compost and mulch to help decompose contaminants.

– Do not use greywater on acid loving plants such as rhododendrons and blueberries. Greywater tends to be alkaline.

– Disperse greywater over a large area and rotate with fresh water to avoid buildup of sodium salts. One recommendation from the University of Massachusetts is to apply no more than one half gallon of greywater per square foot of soil.

– Do not put greywater into toilet tank.

– Use garden friendly soaps. Most hand and dish soaps and shampoos will not damage plants at low concentrations. Laundry detergents should be free of sodium, boron, borax, chlorine and phosphates. Liquid detergents are generally better than powdered. Avoid laundry soaps with bleaches or softeners.

– Washing machine greywater should not be used if laundry includes diapers or oily rags.

– With greywater from the kitchen sink, avoid using the water if you have washed a lot of greasy pans or if the water contains a lot of food particles.

– Do not use water from automatic dishwashers. It tends to have more sodium, bleach and borax and has a very high pH that can harm plants.

– Use on established plants, not on new transplants.

– Do not use on indoor plants or outdoor plants in small containers.

In more arid regions of the U.S. some people have their plumbing systems set up to reuse greywater for irrigating the landscape. Our plumbing systems are just not set up that way. Recovering greywater for reuse is not as easy for us. For us, it usually means a bucket brigade. I use a dish pan to collect my rinse water. If you decide to change your home plumbing to allow access to greywater, check with your local health department and a licensed plumber before making any changes. We take fresh water for granted.

Sandra Mason, Horticulture Educator

University of Illinois Extension

During dreary winter days I envy a plant's ability to go dormant. In March the plants may still be dormant, but gardeners aren't.

This time of year we see the recommendation to spray dormant oil to control insects on everything from fruit trees to lilacs. But is it just any oil sprayed when the plants are dormant? Most commercial dormant oil sprays are refined from petroleum oil. A few are made from cottonseed oil. Unlike home remedies, commercial spray oils have an emulsifier added to allow the oil to mix with water. Many of the newer commercial oils are more highly refined than past dormant oil products. The new formulations are labeled to also be used, usually at a reduced rate, during the growing season. These are generally listed as horticultural, ultrafine or summer oils. Read and follow all label directions for proper timing and rates.

Oils kill exposed insects and mites by either suffocating them (covering up breathing tubes) or by directly penetrating the outside cuticle and destroying internal cells. Spraying trees with dormant oil after bud break and leaves have emerged will still control the pests, but it may kill the young leaves or cause leaf edges to turn black if the correct oil is not used at the proper rate.

Dr. Phil Nixon and Dr. Raymond Cloyd in the U of I Extension Home, Yard and Garden Pest Newsletter outlined the benefits of making an application of dormant oil. Advantages include: 1) a wide range of activity against most species of mites and scales, including some activity on eggs; 2) minimal likelihood of insects' or mites' developing resistance; 3) generally less harmful to beneficial insects and mites than other pesticides 4) relatively safe to birds, humans, and other mammals. Disadvantages of using dormant oil are 1) potential plant damage if incorrect oil is used or used at improper rate during the growing season and 2) minimal residual activity to kill new pest infestations.

Dormant oils are effective in controlling certain scales that overwinter as nymphs or adults such as cottony maple, euonymus, lecanium, and obscure scale. However, dormant oils provide minimal control of oyster-shell and pine needle scale because both these scales overwinter as eggs. In addition, eggs are generally stacked on top of each other, and the dormant oil may not contact the bottom layer. As a result, applications of summer oils after egg hatch are generally required. Accurate identification of the scale is important for proper control.

Honeylocust mite, European red mite, and spruce spider mite are controlled with dormant oil sprays, because they over-winter as exposed eggs on plants. Dormant oil sprays do not kill two-spotted spider mites, as they overwinter on the ground
in leaf debris.

Summer oils are best used to control slow soft bodied insects. They do little in controlling pests such as white grubs, cabbageworms and apple maggots.

Dormant oil applications must be made when temperatures stay above freezing for 24 hours. Be sure to follow all label directions because oil sprays may damage certain plants, including Amur maple, Japanese maple, redbud, and sugar maple. In addition, the foliage (needles) of Colorado blue spruce can be discolored (change from blue to green) by dormant oil applications.

In addition to oils other pesticides may require dormant application. Peaches should be sprayed now with lime sulfur if peach leaf curl has been a problem. Peach leaf curl appears as a thickening, curling and puckering of leaves. Fruits become swollen and deformed. This is the only spray that will control this disease. Lime sulfur may also be used on raspberries to control anthracnose. As always, be sure to read and follow all label directions.

Sandra Mason, Horticulture Educator
University of Illinois Extension

February

It's a good time to decide on your planting dates for flowers and vegetables – those you buy and those you start from seed. Just remember that the weather may not cooperate.

Start some of your seeds indoors.

Pruning can be done now. Prune apple and crabapple trees for improved air circulation and to prevent mildew and other diseases. Also prune your summer flowering Clematis (Group II). Remove 6 to 8 inches, down to a pair of strong buds. Other Clematis species get there pruning later in the spring.

Check roses and other perennials for rabbit damage and cover with metal mesh as needed.

Watch for the early budding on ornamentals (pussy willow and witch hazel). Cut specimens and bring them indoors to force blooming. The color will do much to raise your spirits.

Early March . . . if weather permits

Do some early planting. Leaf lettuce and early radishes can go in if the soil is dry enough. And peas can go in even in very wet soil.

Continue starting seeds indoors, especially cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli for transplanting out in seven or eight weeks. Keep germination trays well ventilated so seed sprouts will not "damp off."

Prune off dead and diseased wood from grapes and bramble fruit.

If your soil is dry enough, till your vegetable garden. Never work wet soil.

Rake leaves and other plant debris from spring flowering bulb beds. Do it carefully to avoid damage to emerging shoots.

Cover exposed emerging shoots of bulbs with wire screen to keep rabbits from nipping them off.

If you haven't tested your soil, do it. And if the soil test advises it, acidify the soil around blueberries, hollies, azaleas and rhododendrons. You may also want to treat around your blue hydrangeas to keep their color true.

Make sure the mower or yard tractor is ready for a busy season. Change the oil and spark plugs. Sharp blades are essential to good mowing, whether your mower is gas or electric.

Late March . . . if weather permits

Plant your onion plants and sets. Space out planting times for a sustained yield of fresh onions for eating.

Start your tomato seeds indoors. Plants started indoors now should be ready for transplanting outdoors in May.

Cool-season vegetable seedlings can be moved to a cold frame for a start on hardening-off.

If you have accumulated a brush pile over winter, burn it or have it hauled away before it becomes a nesting or denning site for birds and other local critters.

Make a succession planting of radishes and leaf lettuce.

Remove any plant debris from your rhubarb and asparagus beds. Spread some compost over the area and carefully dig in some balanced (10-10-10) fertilizer around the plants or sets.

Plant spinach, kohlrabi, turnips, more garden peas and early potatoes.

Plant some new asparagus and rhubarb plants to increase production next year.

Plant pepper and eggplant seeds indoors for transplanting later.

Prune out dead branches from your shrubs and trees. The live branches should be showing leaf or flower buds.

Set out new strawberry plants to replace old ones and to enlarge your bed.

If your lawn got an early start, it might be necessary to mow for the first time. Mow if you must, but not closer than three inches.

Master Gardener Staff

These classes are presented free of charge to all gardeners. Everyone must register by calling the Woodford County Extension office at least one week in advance so sufficient class materials can be prepared. Master Gardeners will receive Continuing Education credit for attending.

Climbers and Twiners: Vines for the Home Garden

February 26 1:00 PM Woodford County Extension Office

February 28 7:00 PM Snyder Village Old Community Room
(Gazebo Entrance), Metamora

Let your gardens soar to new heights . . . literally! Vines offer exciting diversity
of leaves, flowers, fruits, and structure that add another dimension to your garden. Learn how to care for them, and how to choose vines for our landscape gardens.

Orchids 101

April 8 1:00 PM Woodford County Extension Office

April 10 7:00 PM Snyder Village Old Community Room (Gazebo Entrance), Metamora

Have you ever wanted to grow orchids but been scared off by their "diva" reputation for high maintenance and a high price tag? Learn how to select orchids suitable for the home and how to keep them alive once you get them there.

Containers with Pizzazz

April 22 1:00 PM Woodford County Extension Office

April 24 7:00 PM Snyder Village Old Community Room
(Gazebo Entrance), Metamora

Tired of the same old plant containers on your porch, patio, or deck? Plan and plant for pizzazz! The session offers ideas for design, containers, and plant combinations.

We are pleased to release the new Hort Answers website. It is a comprehensive guide to help homeowners living in the USDA Hardiness Zones 4, 5 & 6. It provides localized information to help select and care for plants as well as identify and manage plant diseases, insects and other problems.

The site was developed by Bruce Paulsrud, former Extension Specialist, PAT; Jim Schuster, Extension Specialist, PAT/Plant Plathology; Maurice Ogutu, Extension Educator, Horticulture; Sharon Yiesla, Extension Unit Educator, Horticulture, and Greg Stack, Extension Educator, Horticulture.

It will be an excellent resource for Master Gardeners, media, libraries, garden center personnel, and home gardeners.

You can visit the site at:

http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/hortanswers/

February 26 - Noon

Meeting prior to 1:00 telenet, Farm Bureau Building, Eureka

March 8 - Noon

"Plants That Play In Peoria" class Luthy Botanical Garden, Peoria (education credit)

April 8 - Noon

Meeting prior to 1:00 telenet, Farm Bureau Building, Eureka

May 8 - 6:00 p.m.

Meeting prior to 7:00 telenet, Snyder Village, Metamora

June 17 - Noon

Tour of private Eureka garden, Location to be announced

July 24 - 6:00 p.m.

Meeting prior to 7:00 telenet, Snyder Village, Metamora

August - Judy Malin presentation on Irises

September 23 - 10:00 a.m.

Guided tour of Luthy Botanical Garden, Peoria

October Meeting and Work Day at ICC Garden, East Peoria

November - No meeting

December 3 - 6:30 pm

Christmas Potluck at Farm Bureau Building, Eureka