This document printed from the University
of Illinois Extension Gardening Column at http://www.extension.uiuc.edu/springfieldcenter/
A Tutorial on Plant Percentages
August 23, 2008
David J. Robson
Extension Educator, Horticulture
Springfield Center P.O. Box 8199
Springfield, IL 62791
Phone: 217-782-6515
FAX: 217-782-8886 drobson@uiuc.edu
As summer winds down to autumn, it's likely those plant containers don't look as nice as they did a month ago (though admittedly, the flowers, foliage and grass are greener, thicker, more lush and brighter than last year).
Plants eventually peter out — they don't flower as heavily and are smaller than they should be. Maybe insects such as Japanese beetles have devoured the leaves. Or perhaps all the rain caused leaf spots and other diseases that have taken a toll on the plants.
And while we had more than enough moisture during June and July, the last couple of weeks have been dry, putting plants under stress. Or, all the rain could have depleted what nitrogen there was in the soil with the end result of little or no growth.
Many annuals, such as coleus, million bells, petunias and salvia, could be cut back by half or more, leaving at least 4 inches of stem. Follow the pruning with a liberal dousing of water-soluble fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro or Rapid-Grow, mixed according to directions, and in a few weeks the plants should approach the same fullness and flowering of early July.
Or replace the plants with something different.
Consider the 50 percent rule. If you look at the plants and say, "Gosh, the plants are 50 percent 'undesirable,' " then consider removing them. You have permission.
Some plants will look better than 50 percent. Keep those. When you remove the undesirables, though, take care not to damage the root system or stems of the plants you intend to keep.
Which brings us to the point of what to remove. Do your best to remove roots and all; this may be difficult if the plants are growing tightly together in the container. Give the plants a good watering beforehand, almost to the point of flooding the container, and it will be easier to remove one plant with little damage to the others.
The goal is not to replace plants with the same type. Instead, opt for fall bloomers.
Chrysanthemums top the list. Some already are in full bloom, but within a couple weeks, they'll be past their prime. Instead, look for those in bud and just starting to show color.
There probably are more colors and flower forms for chrysanthemums than any other flower. Blue and black are what you won't find.
Remember that most chrysanthemums are in larger pots than what you probably removed. Which means that you'll have to get rid of more plants for the mums to fit the pot. Don't try crowding a 6-inch root system into a 2-inch hole. It won't work.
Other fall plants include flowering kales and cabbages, which add great low-growing, red-gray texture to any pot. Unlike the chrysanthemums, flowering kale and cabbage don't really flower. Think of these plants as autumn pseudo-coleus, though the range isn't the same as regular coleus.
Ornamental kale and cabbage will survive some freezes, so you should be able to enjoy them well into November and December.
Asters are as plentiful as mums, and while they're not available in as many colors as chrysanthemums, there are shades of blue and purple. Like mums, you want those showing buds and not in full flower.
Pansies also can be planted for fall enjoyment, and depending on the type and winter weather conditions, they may be around next spring. The icicle types are among the cold-hardiest.
Goldenrod gets a bad rap because it happens to bloom at the same time as ragweed. However, goldenrod pollen is so heavy that you have to stick your nose into it in order to sneeze. "Fireworks" goldenrod is one of the better, shorter cultivars that won't flop all over the place.
There are many sedums and ornamental grasses that can add as much interest. A trip to the garden center and nursery may have you re-evaluating that 50 percent rule and dropping the number 25 percent, 15 percent, 5 percent ... You get the idea.
Whatever you plant, make sure to work the soil that's still in the pot, separate the roots of the new plant with your hands or trowel, and give the plants a good watering with the water-soluble fertilizer after planting.
David Robson is a horticulture educator for the University of Illinois Extension. For more gardening information or for your local extension unit office, go to www.extension.uiuc.edu/mg. The Sangamon-Menard Unit Sangamon County office can be reached at 782-4617.
This column was originally published in the State Journal-Register, Springfield, IL.