For the gardener who simply cannot sit still when there is no snow on the ground and the soil is showing signs of thawing we present the following list of vegetables that can, in most years, be planted in March. When in March depends entirely on the weather.

Asparagus crowns	Onion sets
Cabbage seed	Peas
Collard seed	Potato, whole "seed" potatoes or pieces
Kohlrabi seed	Radish seed
Leek seed	Rhubarb plants
Mustard greens seed	Spinach seed
Onion seed	Turnip seed

Although peas may be planted in very wet ground, a technique called "mudding in"; most other seeds require somewhat drier soil. All of these plants have very good cold hardiness so, if they sprout even though frost is still an occasional visitor, no harm should result.

George Luthy Memorial Botanical Garden has been a gardening home- away- from-home for fourteen Peoria County Master Gardeners. As other home gardeners wait out the cold and snow of winter, these busy folks help maintain the plant collection at this nationally recognized horticultural showplace.

Volunteers Phyllis Baylor, Holli Cook, Nancy Coon, Norma Ellington, Kathy Harper, Evelyn Hoerr, Debbi Kirkilewski, Jeanne Martin, Dorothy Noirot, Teresa Smith, Kandy Stamer, Connie Waller, Peggy Walter, and Erma Wieland have played an active part in the Master Gardeners' Luthy Assistance Project for over two years. As part of a large force of skilled non-professional helpers, this horticulture team, guided by Volunteer Coordinator Renata Brown, makes it possible for Luthy to maintain the high standards of care demanded by the plants in its indoor plant collection and outdoor plantings, despite a limited budget.

Some of the tasks the MG Volunteers handle in the greenhouses and in the gardens are seed starting, seedling planting, flowerbed weeding, watering, plant repotting and flower dead-heading. An outlet for decorative artistry is provided by opportunities for setting-up the seasonal treats presented by the poinsettia, mum, and lily shows. In addition unique opportunities are presented by special events such as "Rhythm in the Rainforest" and the plant sales.

This special group of Master Gardeners is proud to be a part of the unique contribution Luthy Botanical Garden makes to the community.

The Bean...Young snap beans to eat fresh from the garden, colorful green, purple or yellow beans, bush beans that grow on compact stems and pole beans that clamber up tepees and trellises, there are few vegetables as varied as beans. They are easy to grow and are versatile in the kitchen. This is why the National Garden Bureau has designated 2003, The Year of the Bean. When you consider nutritional value, you have a truly bountiful crop, worthy of space in everyone's garden. Beans contain fiber, and a lot of protein, including the essential amino acid lysine. Since most grains lack lysine, when combined with beans, they become a complete protein. Beans also provide folacid (folic acid) and some necessary minerals. All together, beans are a healthful and delicious vegetable.

The three basic types of beans are snap, green shelling and dry shell. Snap beans are named for the "snap" sound they make when the pods are broken. Snap beans are grown for their edible pods as well as the beans inside. Green shelling beans, such as limas, are eaten when the beans inside their pods are fresh. Dry shell beans are grown for their mature seeds, which dry in their pods on the vine before being shelled.

All beans are in the Legume family (Leguminocae), as are peas and the flowers lupine, sweet pea, and baptisia. Legumes "fix" nitrogen in the soil, making it water soluble and available for plant roots to absorb. Beans are warm-season vegetables. If planted before the soil is warm in the spring, the seeds may rot before germinating. Wait until all danger of frost has passed (early to mid-May in Zone 5) when soil and night time temperatures are 55º F. or higher. Because they take longer to mature and need even warmer temperatures (about 65º or higher); plant lima beans later.

Beans prefer light, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. Prepare the soil by digging to 6 to 8 inches and incorporating compost or manure. As you sow the beans, add an inoculant in the row to increase their nitrogen-fixing ability. Sow beans 1 to 1-1/2 inches deep. Sow 1 to 2 bush beans every 3 inches. Plant in double rows 18 to 24 inches apart. or in single rows with 18 inches between rows. Plant pole beans on trellises or tepees on the north side of the garden so they will not shade the rest of the garden. Water as needed since beans require at least an inch of water a week.

Harvest snap beans when pods are young and bean seeds inside begin to swell. Don't yank the pods from the stem. Hold them in one hand and gently pull off each bean. Keep beans harvested for continued production.

The Poppy... Poppies deserve a place in any garden: in wildflower and meadow plantings, perennial borders, cutting gardens or mixed shrub borders. Their flower colors range from vibrant to subdued – from deepest crimson, bright orange and yellow to soft pink, dusty peach, rose, lilac and cream. Flowers may be single, double, or semidouble, with amazing texture and size. The Iceland poppy produces flowers up to seven inches across above attractive blue-green segmented foliage.

The Shirley poppy bears single or double crepe-paper-like blooms edged with white, Field or Flanders poppies sport single, crimson flowers, which suit wildflower plantings perfectly. The National Garden Bureau designates 2003 as the 'Year of the Poppy' because it is quite probably the most popular wildflower in America.

In a border garden poppies combine beautifully with lamb's ears, cornflowers, larkspur, Shasta daisy, and veronica. For a meadow look, you cannot go wrong with a sowing of poppies among lupine, coreopsis, Indian blanket, black-eyed Susan and cornflower. The colors complement each other and the various plants extend the flowering season into fall. The beauty of poppy blooms is like a magnificent, though fleeting sunset Flowers appear primarily in the spring or fall when cooler temperatures prevail. Poppies vary in height from two to three feet tall, although some dwarf strains of the Iceland poppy reach on twelve inches. The latter work well in rock gardens, containers, and at the front edge of a border. Most poppies look good in the middle or to the rear of perennial beds.

The annual poppies are the Corn poppy and Shirley poppy. The Corn poppy, Papaver rhoeas, grows two to three feet tall, blooms from late spring through summer and bears red, purple, lilac, white, salmon, peach, pink or orange flowers with a distinctive blotch at the base of each petal. The Shirley poppy grows to four feet tall; its pastel blooms lack the blotch but have a narrow white or tinted edge to each petal.

Perennial poppies are Alpine, Iceland and Oriental poppies. The Alpine poppy P. alpinum grows five to ten inches tall, blooms from late spring to summer and bears white, yellow or occasionally orange or red flowers. It is hardy in Zones 5 to 8. The Iceland poppy. P. nudicaule, grows one to two feet tall, blooms from late spring through summer and produces orange, red, yellow apricot pink, salmon or white flowers. It is hardy in Zones 2 to 8. The Oriental poppy, P. orientale, grows two to four feet tall, blooms from late spring to midsummer and bears scarlet, salmon, pink, peach, white or rose blooms, usually with a black blotch at the base of the petals. Foliage dies back after flowering but begins to regrow in fall. It is hardy in Zones 4 to 9.

The ongoing problem of deer predation is being given specific attention by the Jackson & Perkins Co, in their Spring plant catalog. Selected varieties of flowering perennial plants, shipped in small pots, are grouped according to their recommended use in the garden. These collections are named "Deeresistible"" and are specifically recommended for sun, shade and borders.

The Sun Collection contains Columbine, "McKana Giants," Buddleia "Empire Blue," Salvia "Purple Rain," Veronica "Waterperry Blue," Iberis "Snowflake," Achillea "Coronation Gold" and Echinacea "Magnus."

The Borders Collection consists of Lavender "Hidcote Superior," "Premier" and Pukehou" and Dianthus "Raspberry Crush," "Petticoat" and "Royal Velvet."

The Shade or Woodland Collection is composed of Foxglove 'Apricot,' Bergenia cordifolia, Astilbe 'Vision', Blue Monkshood, Anemone 'Prince Henry' and Pulmonaria mix.

Although the nursery identifies these plants as "deer-resistant" they are not "deer proof.' As many area gardeners will agree, there is always one deer that will eat anything, especially if you prize it very highly. Truly "deer-proof" flowers are probably made of plastic and wire but these are not recommended for the home garden.

by Martha Smith, Horticulture Educator,
University of Illinois Extension, Macomb Center

Spring is near and we are beginning to get the gardening itch! Warm days tease us and crocuses encourage us! But we know Mother Nature is still in charge and she can release her fury at any time. Now is the time to start thinking about what will need to be divided in our gardens. In general, most perennials need to be divided every three to five years. The ideal time is in the spring just as active growth starts. It is at this time you can do the least amount of irreparable damage. All systems are go! The plants are coming out of their dormancy and are prime for growing. Some may argue that there are specific plants that respond to dividing better at later times during the growing season. Yes that is true, but spring is O.K.

Usually plants will show signs of needing division. They become overgrown with dead, unsightly centers, or their vigorous growth has sent them to places in your garden where they are not welcome! Plants have fewer flowers and are in overall poor health due to the plant depleting the fertility of the soil as it crowds itself. Let the plant be the gauge and not the calendar. Some perennials may need dividing every two years while others may not need any attention for seven years.

To divide mature clumps of perennials, lift the clump and separate the outer active growing portion from the center. Discard the center and replant the active growth areas. Be careful not to over divide. Leave an amount proportionate to the crown. Too few roots will not be able to support a large crown. Too small a crown will not give you much of a visual display. Too large a clump may mean you'll be dividing this plant again soon. Don't worry about being rough. Some perennials need a backhoe and a pickaxe! After lifting these brutes, go at them with a saw, two pitchforks back-to-back, or a sharp, flat-edged shovel. On the softer side, some perennials lift very easily and you can actually separate them with your hands.

Replant the portion you are keeping and give away or discard. Prepare the planting area by adding compost or aged manure. Remember, a perennial can be expected to live in that spot for several years so take a few minutes to amend the planting area. You will be glad you did. You should stagger your plant divisions so that the whole garden will not be redone at the same time. A good rotation plan will yield a nice display of flowers each year.

March is a transition month in all of nature and the "Thoroughly Rotten Kid", more-or-less affectionately called the "TRK", is no exception. Depending upon the age of the subject, this may be the time that he, or she, should be introduced to the cruel, hard realities of life. It is time for the parents to speak the words that strike terror into the heart of any TRK ..."It's time you got a job."

As spring break approaches and the months of the summer vacation are almost visible on the horizon the meaningless phrases "You must learn to be more responsible." "You must learn the value of money" and " It is time to prepare for the real world" are spoken by Mom and Dad, otherwise known by the TRK as "They" or "Them."

The usual drill is to look over the summer job market in spring, make contacts and introduce the TRKs to a variety of jobs that they would not consider for a moment if left to their own devices. Whether it is best to assist the TRK in choosing and securing a "summer job" is open to question. A little help can be good but too much is usually counterproductive. The TRK may prefer going to Colorado to become a fire fighter with the Forest Service is usually not a good choice for a first job, as is working in a coal mine or in construction as a steel rigger. Fortunately these jobs are not open to teenage novice workers.

Despite some initial resistance, the TRK will usually succumb to continued nagging and agree to look for a job. Suddenly the thought occurs, "When I am earning my own money I will be able to spend it as I want to. I will be economically free from the bondage of "Them." Visions of a car, new stereo set-up, super computer and other previously unavailable necessities appear. Now is the time for the rest of the reality sandwich. As long as you are under this roof you will still function according to the "Rules of the House." The great sums of money the TRK will earn all summer at the summer job might provide sustenance for a week at best in the real world.

The TRK will be independent but only slightly so. Such is the way of the world. The freedom and independence of the Summer Job is not absolute, as is everything else in this world and the TRK will learn this very soon. We wish every TRK good luck in the painful process of "Growing Up." Some people never learn it but they are the ones to be pitied. Good luck kid. We have all been there and must of us have survived.

Addendum: Since the author of these mini-essays has only had experience raising, with varying degrees of success, sons, much of the advice and admonitions have been directed to TRKs of the male gender. We have been assured that, although they are prettier and sweeter, girl offspring can qualify just as well as TRKs as do boys.

There are three mistakes home gardeners can make in watering their indoor plants, especially in the colder months. The first is watering the plants too much. This is common because it is so easy to do and there is so little else you can do for them in the dull, drab days of winter.

The next mistake is forgetting the plants and not watering them enough. Indoors, in the winter, with the usually dry heat of the furnace keeping the indoors comfortable for the homeowner, the plants can become dangerously dry. One of the reasons that succulents and other plants with fleshy leaves are so popular as houseplants is that they resist drying. To be honest, they can take neglect and still survive.

The third mistake is watering plants with soft water. Very often soft water will have a slight residue of salt left from the recharge cycle of the water softener. This could be so slight as to be completely undetectable by the human user but the soil around the plants provides a surface from which water can evaporate and this concentrates the salt in the soil. The result can be lethal to plants. Not as harmful but still not good for the plants is hard water. When this evaporates it leaves a white or yellowish crust on the soil of the planter. This mineral buildup can, in time make the soil less hospitable to the plants. The crust can be scraped off the surface or disposed of when the plants are periodically repotted.

If soft water and hard water are not suitable for indoor plants, what kind of water is good for them? Rainwater is best and in winter this may be called "snow-melt." Although some atmospheric dust is in the rain or snow, the water is as natural as homeowners can find for their indoor plants.

March is usually the month for giving ornamental grasses the only attention they will need all season. Just before, or very shortly after new shoots of grass begin to appear, the dry grass from last season must be cut down as close to the ground as is feasible...usually 4 to 6 inches. Since dry grass can make a major mess when scattered everywhere in the yard, it is recommended that, before cutting, the grass be tied into a standing bundle, somewhat like an old fashioned sheaf of grain. The grass can then be cut and removed neatly. Pruning shears, a pruning saw, or hedge clippers can be used, depending upon the size of the bundle. One warning: Do not burn the grass as it stands unless this is allowed by local ordinance and there is nothing else combustible within at least fifty feet. The fire is brief but the heat of the burning grass is intense. We recommend cutting the grass and placing the bundle in the compost bin.

One of the first tasks in preparing perennial flower beds for the new season is clearing away the debris of last season. This should be done very carefully since the early sprouts of this year's plants will be emerging in the litter. A suggestion is to wait until the leaves and other dead plant material is mostly dry and brush it carefully away from the known plant locations. Raking may be easier and does not require kneeling and stooping that brush does but may cause damage to the delicate first shoots.

Spring is the time when many gardeners apply manure to their flower and vegetable beds. Since new plants will be emerging and seeds will be sprouting in these beds it is best if the manure has been composted. Fresh manure may actually damage the delicate, emerging plants.

Spring weather is extremely unpredictable. Linking suggestions to specific dates is, at best, tenuous. Consider everything plus or minus a week.
First Week... 3/1 – 3/7

• Plant leaf lettuce and early radishes if the soil is dry enough.
• Even if the soil is wet peas can be planted. "Mudding in" works.
• Continue starting seeds indoors, especially cabbage, cauliflower & broccoli for transplanting outdoors in 7 or 8 weeks.
• Prune off dead & diseased wood from grapes & bramble fruit.
• Keep germination trays well ventilated so seed sprouts will not "damp off."
• Remove mulch from emerging spring-flowering bulbs.

Second Week...3/8-3/14

• Depending upon the weather, clumps of perennials can be dug, divided and replanted.
• Till your vegetable garden when the soil is dry enough. Never work wet ground.
• Rake leaves and other plant debris from spring-flowering bulb beds. Do it carefully to avoid damage to emerging shoots.
• Cover exposed emerging shoots of bulbs with wire screen to keep bunnies from having a tasty treat.
• If the soil test advises it, dig in sulfur to acidify the soil around blueberries, hollies, azaleas and rhododendrons.
• Prepare you mower or yard tractor for a busy season. Clean oil, and sharp blades are essential to good operation.

. Third Week...3/15-3/21

• Weather permitting, onion plants and sets can be planted. Space plantings to provide a sustained yield of fresh onions for eating.
• Tomato plants started indoors now should be ready for transplanting outdoors in May.
• Cool-season vegetable seedlings can be moved to a cold frame for a start on hardening-off.
• If you have accumulated a brush pile over winter, burn it or have it hauled away before it becomes a nesting or denning site for birds and other local critters.
• Make a succession planting of radishes and leaf lettuce.
• Remove any plant debris from your rhubarb and asparagus beds. Spread some compost over the area and carefully dig in some balanced (10-10-10) fertilizer around the plants or sets.

Fourth Week...3/22-28

• If the weather permits, plant spinach, kohlrabi, turnips, more garden peas and early potatoes.
• Plant some new asparagus and rhubarb plants to increase production next year.
• Plant pepper and eggplant seeds indoors for transplanting later.
• Prune out dead branches from your shrubs and trees. The live branches should be showing leaf or flower buds.
• Set out new strawberry plants to replace old ones and to enlarge your bed.
• If your lawn got an early start it may be necessary to mow for the first time. Mow if you must but not closer than 3 inches.

Many folks who host wild birds at backyard feeders have commented on the small number of birds that they have had as visitors this winter. "Where have all the birds gone?" is a frequently asked question. Several seasonal bird counts have confirmed that populations of many species are below normal in numbers. Especially notable have been crows, blue jays and chickadees.

The effect of last summer's outbreak of the West Nile virus may be a factor, especially for these three species since they are especially vulnerable to the disease, though many other species are not immune. Last summer homeowners reported finding dead or dying birds in larger number than they have seen before. Whatever the causes, low population numbers should not be considered a cause for distress among confirmed birders or informal birdwatchers.

Populations of all living things ebb and flow. Yearly counts confirm peak populations follow drops in population for most species. This is most noticeable among short-lived creatures such as birds.

Some things about which we have little information are, for migratory species, conditions at their other habitats ... the places to which they migrate. Causes of depletion may be found far from our backyards. Knowledgeable ornithologists who have studied the population flux of many species of birds over many years assure us that low population numbers are, barring catastrophes, only temporary and we may expect numbers of our favorite birds to return to the levels that their food, roosting and nesting resources can adequately support.

Although volunteer service, in itself, is not a tax-deductible expense, certain cash expenditures may be. An example of this would be car expense. This is usually calculated on the basis of mileage traveled in connection with the volunteer activity.

When filing your income tax for 2002, calculate the mileage you traveled in order to perform your volunteer service. This could be the three round-trips per week you made to a community garden in town, from your home outside the city or the early morning jaunts to participate in a weekly radio program. This does not include the mileage for a trip for shopping at Wal-Mart because, in addition to the week's groceries, you also bought a bag of tulip bulbs for a local flowerbed.

As is always best, check with an income tax consultant on the admissibility of your expense deductions.

Instruction for applying preemergent herbicide to combat crabgrass range from the knowledgeable to the mystical. For the most authoritative advice on the subject, we have asked Dr. Tom Voigt, Assistant Professor and Extension Turf Specialist at University of Illinois U-C, for the most precise directions.

Dr. Voigt suggests, if applying preemergent herbicide in relation to the bloom on forsythia bushes, not to apply when the flowers appear but when their petals drop. He suggests however the best indicator is soil temperature. The seeds of annual weeds, especially crabgrass, are most vulnerable when the soil temperature is 50 to 55º F at 1/2 inch soil depth for four to five consecutive days. Applying preemergent herbicide before or after the time the weed seeds germinate and the new plants emerge is not effective.

Question: What is the first crop I can take from garden in spring?

Answer: If you discount chives cut from the potted clump you may have on a windowsill in your kitchen, your first garden crop should be thinnings from leaf lettuce you have planted in your cold frame or hot bed. These are delicious little tastes of the delights to come later. When you thin your leaf lettuce, save the thinnings, pinch off the roots and wash the leaves. If you have enough you can have a mini-salad. If not, they are a tasty garden-fresh garnish for other vegetable dishes. If you planted early enough you may actually have a winter crop since spring doesn't start until March 21. If you consider a crop grown in a cold frame to be something other than garden-grown than perhaps you keep your cold frame in your living room.

One cannot appreciate the damage ice causes to trees until they've experienced a heavy ice storm. Fortunately, major ice storms are infrequent. Trees that normally suffer the most damage - Chinese and Siberian elms, poplars, silver maples, birches and willows - are predictable victims since they all have brittle wood and are easily damaged by ice and wind storms. Homeowners often plant these fast-growing species for rapid shade. They normally have brittle wood and develop weak, V-shaped crotches that easily split apart under added weight. Often, trees with extensive internal rot and decay, not be evident from the exterior, receive severe damage.

Often trees overhang the house, driveway or power lines servicing the home. When large limbs or treetops are broken in an ice storm, they can cause major damage and expense. When trees have major limb or top damage, two questions should be addressed. The first - "Does the condition of the tree warrant efforts to save it or should it be removed?" Major tree repair can be quite expensive and should only be attempted if a major portion of the tree is still intact and its attractiveness and value to the property can be maintained. If the whole side or top are gone, it's questionable whether it's worth the time and money to salvage it. This is especially true if it has brittle wood that lends itself to similar problems in the future. While no one wants to remove a large, mature tree, the prudent decision may be to replace it with a young tree with desirable qualities.

The second question is: "Can you handle the damage repair yourself or should you seek professional help?" Small limbs can be removed easily with pruning shears or a pole-lopper if they are within your reach. Do you feel comfortable climbing a ladder up into the tree? Power equipment should never be operated from a ladder or in the tree where firm footing is questionable. Removing hanging limbs should be left to professional tree services, preferably certified arborists. Look for them under Tree Service in the Yellow Pages. Make sure they carry proper liability and workmen's compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job.

What damage is repairable and what is not? Broken limbs should be removed. Generally, if the branch has not split away from the trunk, the broken segment should be removed back to the next major adjacent branch. Do not leave branch stubs. They encourage rot and decay. For trees with tops broken out, remove the snags to the next major interior branch. Generally, this will be a major fork. Do not top the tree to allow small side branches to grow out and continue the tree's height growth. These branches will be weak and prone to breakage.

To avoid stripping the healthy bark from the trunk when a heavy, broken limb is removed the 3-step procedure should be used. The first cut is made on the underneath side of the branch about 18 inches out from the trunk. The cut should be approximately half-way through the branch or until its weight first starts to bind the saw. The next cut should be made on top of the branch about 1 to 2 inches in front (toward the end of the branch) of the bottom cut. Continue cutting until the branch drops free. The last cut removes the remaining branch stub from the trunk. The cut should be made from the top of the branch at the branch collar. The collar is the slight ridge where the branch attaches to the tree's trunk or another major branch.

In certain situations, a damaged limb may strip healthy bark from the tree. To repair this type of damage, cut any ragged edges of torn bark away from the damaged area. Take care to limit the amount of healthy, tight bark removed. To speed the healing process, the repair cut made with a sharp knife into healthy bark should leave a wound shaped like an elongated football with the pointed ends of the cut running vertically along the trunk or limb or as near parallel to the initial damage as possible. Trees with split trunks or major limb forks may possibly be salvaged if the split is not too extensive. Repairing this type of damage will involve a cable and brace technique that should be left to a professional tree service.

Some small to medium-sized trees may be uprooted. It may be possible to straighten them and brace them with guy wires. Do not attempt this unless one-half to one-third of the tree's original root system is still in the soil and exposed roots are relatively compact and undisturbed. Before straightening the tree, remove some of the soil from beneath the root mass so roots will be placed below the existing grade level. Attach two to three guy wires to the trunk and anchor the wires 10 to 12 feet away from the tree.

Corrective pruning to improve the shape of damaged trees is best done now. If not severely damaged, trees respond quickly in spring. Do not remove more than one-third of the original branches. This would severely retard growth and may damage them beyond recovery.

Treatment of trunk and limb wounds with tree paint is not necessary. Research shows painted areas can lead to increased rot and decay from trapped moisture where paint cracks open. You may want to fertilize your tree this spring with a good quality tree fertilizer. Check with a local nursery or garden center, or your county Extension office for recommended application rates.

- by Ron Wolford, Horticulture Educator, UIUC Extension