There are fifteen regular volunteers in the four courtyards with three others coming when they can. One group usually works Sundays. The rest work Thursday mornings. We could use more workers if anyone is interested.

In planters we have tomatoes, peppers, herbs and flowers. We also have strawberries that we share with patients and visitors. A daughter brought her father out to look around. We gave him some strawberries that he thought was great. He told us about the gardens he used to grow. We sometimes give cut flowers to them. We get at least one gardening each week, often from someone who works there. The staff is very supportive of our efforts. Sometimes they ask to buy starts of our flowers. Any money, we get we put back into our fund. We have a working fund of about $500. Bel-Wood gives us about $150 and the Peoria Garden Club gives us $300. So far we have spent about $175. We bought plants and roses. We also bought mulch from Victory Gardens and compost from the LHF Better-Earth Compost Company.

Come out and see us some time. When we finish, some of us usually go to lunch nearby.

- By Sue Giger, Peoria County Master Gardener

The Peoria County Master Gardeners gathered at the County Extension office on June 18 for their monthly meeting. John Armbruster, Holli Cook, Diana Donath, Al Gienow, Margie Gienow, Sue Giger, Katie Grady, Lee Hammond, Janet Hart, Evelyn Hoerr, Debbi Kirkilewski, Forrest Krummel, Nancy Lemieux, Eve McBride, Helen Nixon, Sandra Perry, Karen Ratledge, Joy Rennich, Nancie Shryock, Barbara Smith, Bill Sullivan, Judy Ziemba attended.

Topics on the agenda were discussed and project reports were read:

• Membership Committee – 703 volunteer hours have been reported by 33 Active MGs and Interns thus far in 2003.
• The MG Journal is seeking a new editor. The current editor will not be able to serve in this capacity after January 1, 2004. Anyone who is interested is asked to contact the Peoria County Extension office.
• The Bel-Wood Nursing Home Project is proceeding well with 15 regular volunteers and 3 additional helpers. They are receiving excellent support from the Bel-Wood Staff. Tomatoes, peppers and herbs are being grown in the Courtyard gardens.
• The Telephone Help-Line needs volunteers in July. A sign-up sheet was passed around.
• The Plant A Row Garden reported six regular volunteer gardeners are working in the garden. Sixteen pounds of early vegetables have been donated to the church pantry and Salvation Army. A research project with the USDA Laboratory in Peoria has begun to evaluate several different paper mulches in the garden.
• The Luthy Assistance Project volunteers are busy outdoors now helping in the new Prairie Garden, planting grasses and forbs (wildflowers).
• Youth Farm Gardens have been started for the season and are proving very popular with the boys. The staff has commented on the fewer fights that have been occurring since the gardens have been available in which the boys can work.
• The Parc Enabling Garden has attracted a number of Peoria County MGs, plus one from Tazewell. Plants left over from the May Plant Sale have been planted and a "Pizza Garden" is planned.

A number of new projects have been suggested but there is doubt about how much more the Peoria County MGs can take on, considering the number of volunteers available.

The Horticulture Department of Illinois Central College invites gardeners, photographers and garden photographers to submit their best picture for judging in their annual Garden Photography Contest.

Photograph Categories are:

1. The Digital Garden
2. Garden Panorama
3. Up Close in the Garden
4. Critters in the Garden
5. People in the Garden

   First place winners in each category will each receive $50.
   Second place in each category will win a photo or garden related gift.
   The first Place Winner of the Peoples' Choice Award will receive $100.

The rules of the contest are:

• Photos must be dry mounted on single white matboard.
• Photos must be no larger than 8"x10" with mat no larger than 11"x14".
• Minimum photo size is 5"x7".
• No frames or glass may be used.
• A completed entry form must be secured to the back of each entry.
• Mounted photos with entry forms attached must be submitted no later than August 22, 2003.
• There is a limit of three entries per category by any entrant.

Entry forms are available at Illinois Central College, all campuses.

Submit all entries to Linda Barnes, One College Drive, Ag/Industrial Bldg., Room TK-8, East Peoria, IL 61635. Entries may also be placed in the drop-off box in the Horticulture Land Lab foyer, Lot G.

All photos will be displayed at Landscape and Garden Day, Saturday, September 6, 2003.

...MG Journal Staff, with information from the ICC Horticulture Department.

Periodical cicadas emerged in large numbers in northeastern Illinois on June 6. Typically, this insect emerges in the Chicago area around May 27. The unseasonably cool weather this year, particularly in northern Illinois, may be the cause of the later emergence. Another unusual feature is that the males have not been singing much. Typically, the males do not sing for a couple of days after they emerge, but the longer period this year also may be due to the cold weather. As a general rule, insects are not active at temperatures much below 50 degrees F and are sluggish when temperatures in the 60s. With the warmer temperatures predicted there probably will be plenty of singing.

Males produce a high-pitched wavering song that sounds like a trill when many are singing together. They sing primarily during the sunny part of the day to attract females to them for mating. The males and the singing die after a couple of weeks, while females remain alive for 2 to 4 weeks longer to lay eggs. Eggs are inserted into tree and shrub stems that are up to 2 inches in diameter. Heavy egg-laying causes twigs to break, resulting in dead leaves at the end of branches. Small trees may have enough eggs laid into the trunk that it breaks off.

Control is directed at preventing egg-laying damage, as adult feeding is insignificant. Although pyrethroids and carbaryl (Sevin) kill large numbers of adults, treated plants commonly experience about as much injury as untreated plants in landscapes and small planting areas. In nurseries and other large planting areas, repeated applications can reduce the damage significantly. Individual trees can be protected with nylon netting or wire screening tied around the trunk and larger branches. Make sure that the netting or screening stands out from the trunk so that the cicadas cannot reach the stem with their ovipositors. Although damage to small branches is obvious, its long-term effect is to make the plant bushier and is not usually worth control efforts.

Eggs hatch within a few weeks into small nymphs that drop to the ground and tunnel down to find a root to feed on. Over the years, nymphs commonly move to different roots but do not migrate very far. Nymphs have little effect on tree health, although studies have shown reduced diameter growth in trees during the 2 to 3 years before adult emergence. Because larger insects eat more than smaller ones, the older, larger nymphs apparently eat enough sap to reduce growth.

Full-grown nymphs are brown, humpbacked, and about 3/4 inch long. They commonly construct soil chimneys that extend from the ground up to 3 inches high and are about 1/2 inch in diameter. These chimneys have been reported in the last part of May this year in the expected emergence area. Chimneys are not always constructed. Within a few days, nymphs break through the top of the chimneys or soil surface to crawl up trees, shrubs, and other upright objects, where they molt into adults. Adult periodical cicadas are about 1-1/4-inch-long, black insects with red eyes and orange-veined, clear wings.

We are interested in tracking this emergence. I would appreciate knowing where these cicadas are found. Contact me by e-mail, pnixon@uiuc.edu; I appreciate the heavy response to my request for locations of this year's emergence. I have had reports of cicadas in the Beverly area of Chicago, Chicago Heights, Downers Grove, Elmhurst, Elmwood Park, Flossmoor, Glen Ellyn, Hinsdale, Homewood, LaGrange, LaGrange Park, Lake Forest, Libertyville, Lisle, Lombard, Marseilles, North Riverside, Olympia Fields, Palos Heights, Palos Hills, Western Springs, and Westmont.

If you see periodical cicada in areas other than those listed, please let me know– phone, (217)333-6650; or mail, S-408 Turner tive materials. Hall, 1102 S. Goodwin, Urbana, IL 61801. pnixon@uiuc.edu.

- By Dr. Phil Nixon, Entomologist University of Illinois, U-C

For every good deed there is an appropriate punishment and for every bit of casual stupidity there is some good that can be extracted. Consider lawn mowing. An average, normal lawn requires mowing about once a week. There are times when this thoroughly enjoyable and inspiring task must be put off for a week. Maybe it rained, or relatives came from Spokane, or the dog was sick and needed TLC ... whatever ... the grass is now twice as deep as it should be. It must be cut today or your only alternative will be a flock of sheep.

First sharpen your mower blade or blades. A sharp blade will not compensate for neglect but it helps. If you normally would mulch mow, forget it. You must cut and rake, or cut and collect. Cutting and collecting is a nuisance but here's the bright side, cut grass will provide the green component for your compost. If you have been neglecting your weeding as well as your mowing, cut grass will bring your compost bin back into balance. Sometimes the bright side can be too bright, as with four times as much grass as your compost bin will hold. Surplus cut grass then can become mulch in the vegetable garden.

Another problem with mowing too late is cutting height. If you normally cut to three inches you have little choice. Tall grass should be cut a bit higher than usual. If "usual" is three inches then three and one-half or four inches may be necessary. Next week you can cut it shorter. That is one saving feature about lawn care. There is always next week and opportunities for new and different mistakes.

... MG Journal Staff

Light and temperature are closely related. Plants that prefer lower light may tolerate more sun if the temperatures are cooler and if moisture is in good supply. When evaluating light exposure, note how much and at what intensity of light the site receives. Four hours of full sun in the morning are cooler than four hours of full sun in the afternoon. In a shaded location, the degree of light getting to the plants can vary.

In general, if a site receives more than three hours of unfiltered mid-day sun, it is probably best treated as a full sun site and plants should be selected accordingly. Partial sun can be thought of as a site that gets unfiltered morning sun but is shaded in the afternoon hours, or is in "dappled shade" throughout the day.

Areas in deep shade receive very little direct mid-day light and less than 60 percent of the sun's intensity during the remainder of the day. Mismatching plant light preferences with actual light conditions can lead to a reduction in flowering, tall, leggy growth, stunting of plants or leaf scorching.

University of Illinois Extension Web Site "Beyond Impatiens & Petunias" by Greg Stack, Extension Educator, Horticulture

Anthracnose is a fungal disease that appears each year on select ornamental trees. The extent of infection depends on weather conditions and the host. It has appeared in 2003 and may worsen with wet conditions and new foliage production. Trees commonly infected in Illinois include sycamore, ash, maple, oak, birch, dogwood, and walnut; others, less frequently.

Symptoms include spotting and blighting of leaves, buds, and sometimes stems. Anthracnose is caused by one of many fungi present in cool, wet conditions as tender leaves are first developing. The disease is most prevalent in the spring because conditions are conducive to fungal development, while slowing plant development. Leaves emerging in warmer, drier conditions usually escape the disease. Conditions needed for infection vary with the host and the fungus. For most, the critical period for primary infection is the two weeks after budbreak.

Unless anthracnose fungi have repeatedly hit a tree or a very young tree is involved, we do not recommend using fungicides. Dogwood anthracnose is another story altogether: It can cause extensive damage, and fungicides are recommended. Dogwood anthracnose will be discussed in an upcoming issue. In general, anthracnose diseases do not kill trees; but repeated infections can weaken trees, making them susceptible to other problems. Some defoliation may occur, but refoliation with healthy leaves follows in warmer weather. Concentrate on boosting tree vitality, which promotes new growth. Prune in and around the tree to open it to better air movement. Remove dead or dying branches, water in periods of drought, and mark calendars now to fertilize affected trees in the fall. Watering in summer drought is probably the best advice we can give to help infected trees. If we see six weeks of drought in 2003 as in 2002, these trees will suffer. To help them, water must be provided during drought, not as an afterthought in the fall. Don't add to the stress by ignoring these trees in drought.

You might confuse anthracnose with late frost damage. Anthracnose generally causes more discrete spotting on the leaf blade; it occurs where air movement is slow and relative humidity high--most severe near the bottom and inside of the canopy. Frost injury is more likely on branch tips or near the canopy top--areas more exposed to weather conditions. For more information, see Report on Plant Diseases, no. 621, "Anthracnose Diseases of Shade Trees," on Extension's VISTA Web site.

- Nancy Pataky, Plant Pathologist, Plant Clinic. University of Illinois U-C Extension.

This time of year in Illinois, plants such as ash, lilac, and privet are susceptible to attack from lilac borer (Podosesia syringae), also known as ash borer. Adults are brown, slender clearwing moths that resemble paper wasps. Peak moth flight occurs in late May to early June. Females lay oval, tan eggs in cracks, crevices, or wounds at the base of plant stems. A female lives about a week, laying 300 to 400 eggs.

Eggs hatch into cream-colored larvae, about 1-1/2 inches long when full-grown, with brown heads. Larvae cause plant injury by creating tunnels and feeding within the bark. Tunneling into the wood, they feed within the sapwood and heartwood. Feeding restricts the flow of water and nutrients, causing shoots to die. This borer generally feeds near the base of plant canes. Larval feeding creates swollen areas or cracks at the base of plants. Evidence of larval feeding is the presence of light-colored sawdust below infected areas. Lilac borer overwinters as late-instar larvae in the tunnels of stems.

Lilac borer partially tunnels out through the bark before pupating. The moth emerging from the pupa is unable to chew, so it simply pushes out the thin layer of bark remaining. When the moth emerges, the brown shell of the pupa is usually left behind and protrudes from the hole. Sometimes this barely shows, but commonly the pupal case sticks out about 1/2 inch. Male moths emerge first; females emerge several days later. The moths are one inch long, with a brown-colored body. They are very active fliers. There is one generation per year in Illinois.

Prevent plant stress by proper cultural practices such as watering, fertilizing, and mulching; stressed plants are very susceptible to lilac borer. A 2-to-3-foot-wide mulched area around the base of trees and shrubs prevents plant injury from lawn mowers and weed-trimmers. In addition, avoid pruning plants in late spring and early summer when moths are present.

The insecticide permethrin (Astro) can be applied to control lilac borer larvae before they enter the plant. Pheromone traps are available that capture adult males, which indicates that females will eventually be laying eggs. This can help in timing insecticide applications. Another option is to use beneficial nematodes. Nematodes are applied as a heavy spray to the larval entry points; nematodes attack the larvae feeding within the tunnels.

- Raymond A. Cloyd, Entomologist. University of Illinois Extension, U-C.

Summer weather is in full force... hot, dry and possibly windy. Check your garden frequently for signs of drought stress. Deep watering and mulching are your best defenses.

First Week... July 1 to 7

• Keep cutting your broccoli florets so they won't flower.
• Be sure to deadhead your roses and annual flowers for continued blooming. The old blossoms may set seed and flowering will cease.
• Mulch around your tomato and pepper plants to conserve moisture and prevent weeds.
• Spray, dust or pick off cucumber beetles and squash borers on summer squash, cucumbers and melons.
• If rainfall has been below average, water your vegetable garden and shrubs deeply and less often. Don't waste water on the lawn. It will survive.
• Early tomatoes may be ready for a first picking.

Second Week... July 8 to 14

• Don't slack off on weed control. If the garden soil is damp, weed pulling is easy but be careful about working or walking on wet soil.
• Keep picking your cucumbers and summer squash for continued fruit set.
• Your first sweet corn should be ready for licking.
• Watch of white cabbage butterflies. They lay eggs and hatch into cabbage worms. Dust or spray with Bt to control the larvae.
• So you will have some for fall harvest, plant more zucchini and cucumbers.
• Early crop potatoes should be ready for digging.

Third Week...July 15 to 21

• Prune water sprouts from apple and crabapple trees.
• Black Leaf Spot is a continuing problem for roses. Pick off affected leaves and spray with fungicide. Follow instructions carefully.
• Apples may be ready for a first picking.
• For a fall harvest, plant beans, beets, Chinese cabbage, spinach and turnips.
• Add a side dressing of compost to your tomatoes and peppers.
• Water your container plantings. They can dry out quickly in hot, dry weather.

Fourth Week.... July 22 to 31

• The load of fruit on your tomato plants may make support necessary. Watch for overloaded branches.
• Cure your onions in a warm, dry room for two weeks, then store them in a cool dry place.
• New potatoes, planted in straw, should be ready for harvest. Feel for them in the straw and evaluate.
• Succession plantings of green beans, turnips and lettuce can be made now.
• Keep your birdbaths clean and filled with fresh water. This is important for the song birds and will not encourage mosquitoes if replaced every two days.
• The leaders on indeterminate tomatoes should be turned in toward the supports if they are growing on a trellis.

...MG Journal Staff

Dead-heading is the removal of faded flowers before they can develop seed. Dead-heading is a form of summer or day-to-day pruning. The standard recommendation for dead-heading roses is to cut the flower stem back to an outward-facing bud above a five-leaflet or seven-leaflet leaf. This "rule" applies best to plants that are vigorous. If the plant is weak or small, you may not want to cut off as much material. Each time you remove this much wood you are removing a lot of the food-making ability of the plant. This method works well for most recurrent-blooming types of roses.

With rugosa and other shrub roses where hips are a part of the display, you may not want to prune off the old flowers. In this case, simply clean the spent blooms away with your hand, leaving the hips. Flowers should not be cut after October 1 to allow the plant to begin hardening off for the winter. Dead-heading is also a good way to lessen the likelihood of diseases such a botrytis from becoming a problem.

Dead-heading is also recommended for petunias, marigolds, zinnias and many other popular annual bedding plants. If the old blossoms are removed promptly, the flowers will rebloom through much of the season. Deadheading will also improve the appearance of the plants. Most gardeners do not consider dry, shriveled, spent flowers to be attractive.

...MG Journal Staff, with information from the "Hort Corner" website of University of Illinois Extension.

Our lawns are growing vigorously and the weeds that share space with our turf grass are prospering as well. An informative review of actions the home "grounds keeper" can still take to counteract crabgrass was presented on University of Illinois Extension's web site "Lawn Talk" by former Extension Horticulture Educator Bruce Spangenburg. We all fight crabgrass with pre-emergent herbicide in early spring, but Bruce explains that this need not be the end of the story.

Crabgrass and other annual grassy weeds are common problems in home lawns that can be treated through chemical and nonchemical methods. Proper lawn practices to encourage a dense stand of vigorous grass are the best way to prevent weeds from invading. For example, mowing height can have a big impact; lawns mowed higher (over two inches) tend to have fewer problems with annual grasses such as crabgrass. Close-mowed lawns tend to open up, allowing weeds such as crabgrass to invade. Light, frequent watering also favors crabgrass. Crabgrass often invades areas seeded in late spring because of bare soil, frequent watering and onset of hot weather, ideal for its growth.

Herbicides are also available to manage annual weeds. Preemergence herbicides prevent annual grassy weeds such as crabgrass from emerging. Timing of application is very important, as the weed killer should be applied before the crabgrass emerges from the soil. Crabgrass will germinate when soil temperatures are greater than 55 to 60º F. for 7 to 10 consecutive days, and continues until soils reach 95º F. Other annual grasses germinate as soils get warmer than 60º F.

For northern Illinois, late April to early May is the suggested time for applying a preemergence crabgrass herbicide. If the spring is very warm, consider late April. In cold, "late" springs, these materials could be put down well into May. Using forsythia blooming as a guide is not dependable. Many preemergence crabgrass herbicides are available in combination with lawn fertilizer at garden supply stores, so the crabgrass prevention and spring fertilization can be done at the same time.

Some herbicides may be reapplied for extended control; refer to the label for timing and rates. Core aerifying or dethatching should be done based on label instructions. One of the management problems associated with preemergence herbicides is seeding or overseeding practices. With the exception of a herbicide siduron (Tupersan), preemergence annual grass weed killers will also damage germinating desirable grass seed. Oftentimes siduron is combined with starter fertilizer.

If crabgrass plants are appearing in lawns in mid to late summer, remember they are annual plants and die as temperatures drop in fall. Postemergence crabgrass herbicides need to be applied when crabgrass plants are very small, typically crabgrass is noticed too late for these to be effective. The suggested strategy to avoid crabgrass next season would be to improve the lawn through cultural practices and consider a preemergence herbicide in spring.

...Bruce Spangenburg & MG Journal Staff.

Summer is here and with it are heat and too little rain. Despite this our home gardens will do their best to provide us with an abundance of fresh, healthful produce. This guide is intended to help you get the maximum from your plot of fertile earth.

• The green bean harvest will continue throughout July. Pick when the beans are small and tender. As space becomes available, another planting will be ready for harvest in September.
• The beets you planted in April are ready to be pulled now.
• The first broccoli harvest that started in June will continue in July. The second broccoli harvest for October should be planted in July.
• Fall Brussels sprouts should be planted in early July.
• Your started cutting cabbage in June and it should end in July.
• The cabbage you will cut in September and October should be planted in July.
• Sweet corn, planted in succession through May will be ready to be picked in July and into August.
• Your first cucumbers should be ready for picking. Pick smaller cukes unless you are only trying for size and don't care about flavor.
• Late in July spinach can be planted again for harvest in October.
• Your first crop of summer squash should be finishing. The first of your second crop will be ready in late July.
• The goal of every gardener is a ripe tomato by July 4th. Some reach their goal. Some only claim they did. July is the month when the great tomato tide begins. Eat well and can the rest.

...MG Journal Staff with information from University of Illinois Extension & "Vegetable Gardening in the Midwest."

Wings in Your Garden...

West Nile virus is a serious, often fatal disease to some of our most common birds. Although apparently all birds may contract the disease, crows, jays and chickadees are reported to be the most seriously affected with a high rate of lethality. Few bird watchers would miss the occasional crow. The brightly colored and curious blue jay is, by human standards, a worthwhile member of the backyard aviary but chickadees are often ranked number one or two among "favorite" birds. What can we do to help insure that these wings will continue to be in our gardens?

Since food is not a problem in the warmer months, we must provide something that birds often have difficulty finding. That is clean, fresh water for drinking and bathing. There are two contradictory things about birdbaths. Although they are needed by birds for drinking and bathing, they may also become a breeding place for the mosquitoes that transmit West Nile virus disease. We are assured that cleaning and refilling a birdbath every two days is enough to keep it from becoming a mosquito-breeding place. This clean birdbath will help the birds maintain the grooming that is so important to their general health.

A less pleasant part of the West Nile virus/wild bird story is the need for reporting bird fatalities to the local health department. Since birds are part of the cycle of contagion from infected wild birds to mosquitoes to humans, any wild birds that may have died of the West Nile virus should be reported to public health authorities. If you find a dead wild bird, especially a crow or blue jay, in your yard that has not been mutilated and has not been dead longer than 48 hours, call your local health department. (The Peoria City/County Health Department Environmental Health Department's number is 679-6161). If they are tracking infected birds they will ask you to bring the specimen to their lab for examination. Carefully place the bird in a plastic bag and take it to the Health Department. If they are not interested in the specimen simply bury it about 8 inches deep to avoid having a scavenger dig it up later. Funds for the examinations are limited. The Peoria City/County Health Department has a quota of 10 examinations for 2003. Two birds have been examined thus far and both were negative for West Nile Virus.

Your birdbaths are safe if they are cleaned and changed every two days but be sure to take all precautions to avoid creating other breeding places for mosquitoes. If the mode of transmission of the virus, by mosquito sting, can be prevented its transmission this disease can be stopped.

...MG Journal Staff with information from USDA & the Peoria City/County Health Department.

Honeylocusts in Illinois are tolerant of many adverse conditions, or they would not be able to survive. They can tolerate drought, high pH, and salt, three factors that can limit growth of other trees in the same area. Mike Dirr, in Manual of Woody Landscape Plants, says that it is one of the more adaptable native trees. It is also able to tolerate many insect problems. Canker diseases and root rots round out the disease troubles.

Cankers are dead areas on stems. Fungal organisms are blamed for the cankers, but in most cases the fungus can only infect a weakened plant, such as one growing under stress. Wounds are ideal sites for canker fungi to invade. If the canker girdles the stem, wood beyond that point dies. At this time of year, such dead wood is obvious because gardeners are looking closely at their plants and because it stands out clearly against the new green growth of spring. Honeylocust trees are particularly prone to Thyronectria canker, Cytospora canker, and Kaskaskia canker; but the actual organism involved does not make a great deal of difference. The fungi invade stressed trees, so management involves pinpointing the source of stress and trying to correct it.

There are many insect and mite problems on this host (borer, plant bug, webworm, spider mites), some of which have been discussed in this newsletter. Such problems certainly stress a tree. Soil compaction also stresses this species. Roots are shallow, so look for the source of root injury. Last year, most areas of Illinois experienced about 6 to 8 weeks of drought. That is particularly stressful to shallow-rooted trees such as honeylocust. Winter was also dry in most of the state. Frequent applications of some lawn herbicides can also be harmful. Check label restrictions of all herbicides carefully before use.

The most aggressive canker disease of honeylocust is Thyronectria canker. Symptoms include yellowing and wilting of the foliage, premature leaf drop, and stem dieback. Look closely for cankers. The wood is often slightly sunken; the canker is cracked and has a yellow–orange color. The cankers are elongated and can occur on young or old wood. If in doubt as to the presence of a canker, do a bit of investigating, trying not to cause too much tissue damage. Use a knife to peel back some of the bark in the suspect area. The sapwood beneath the canker will be discolored reddish brown. Healthy wood should be white or tan or slightly green.

This canker disease is fairly common on stressed honeylocust trees; and the disease has been linked to drought stress in many cases. Still, the canker can be easily overlooked. As with most canker diseases, there is no rescue treatment that can be sprayed on the tree. Prune out dead wood in dry weather, water the trees when 2 weeks of drought occur, and avoid physical damage to the trees. When you see a canker problem, try to determine the cause of stress and take measures to alleviate that stress. Canker diseases are discussed in Report on Plant Disease (RPD), no. 636, "Canker and Dieback Disease of Woody Plants," available in Extension offices or on the Extension VISTA Web site.

Ganoderma root rot is another problem we see frequently on honeylocust. This root rot pathogen forms reddish brown fruiting bodies (also called conks or shelf fungus) on the trunk, usually near the soil line. They are large (5 to 10 inches in width is common) and appear to have been varnished. We see problems with Ganoderma where rooting is restricted, where soil is compacted, or where other major soil changes have occurred. I witnessed results of infection by this fungus in some large planters that had been accidentally flooded earlier in the year. The University of Illinois quad was planted with honeylocust to replace DED-infected elms in the 1950s. Most of these honeylocust trees have been removed because of Ganoderma root rot. Information about Ganoderma can be found in the RPD, no. 642, "Wood Rots and Decays." You will also find a picture of the fruiting body on the front page of that publication.

- By Nancy Pataky, Plant Pathologist. University of Illinois Extension Plant Clinic.

Very few gardeners know everything there is to know about gardening. It is with the rest of us, who are toiling in the soil, that these hints are shared.

• "Creeping Charlie", Ground Ivy or Glechoma hederacea is a persistent enemy. Not only does it reproduce by seeds, but fragments of the plant's stems will grow new roots when deposited on bare soil. When mowing the lawn, don't mow the ground ivy patch. Spray it carefully with a broadleaf herbicide containing 2,4-D and dicamba. When you mow Ground Ivy you may scatter stem fragments of this pest onto open soil. Herbicide spray is the most effective treatment but this must wait for a windless or low-wind day. Another effective, though tedious technique is hand pulling. This will get the whole plant out of the ground easily and with no fragments left to regenerate. Tedious though it may be, hand pulling is very effective, and lasting.
• Weed seeds thrown into the compost bin with the rest of the plant can survive and germinate in the flower or vegetable beds that you will enrich with the finished compost. The heat or moisture in the compost bin may kill the weed seeds or may encourage them to germinate in the bin, but don't count on it. The best way to avoid this problem is to cut or break off the seed heads of weeds before adding them to the compost.
• "Oh, I don't worry about poison ivy. I'm immune to it." You have heard this and may even have said it but you should remember, you are immune to any allergen only until you are sensitized to it. Persons who have touched poison ivy a thousand times and never had a reaction, may become sensitized by contact number 1,001 and be allergic to it from then on. The attitude and strategy we suggest is to assume you are sensitive to poison ivy, and avoid any contact with it.

One of my more pleasant duties as Extension Unit Leader is thanking folks for the good work they have done, and so often it is the Master Gardeners whom I am thanking.

Following on the heels of our very successful fund raising campaign came the 4-H Fair. As with the campaign, the Master Gardeners were ready to volunteer again. Serving as Judges, Judges Assistants and Barn Superintendents, wherever and in whatever capacity they were needed, the Peoria County Master Gardeners were there.

I want to thank each of our Master Gardener volunteers personally: Judges Nancy Coon, Terry Flaherty, Nancy Lemieux and Barbara Loar, Barn Superintendent Steve Thomas and Volunteer Helpers John Armbruster, Leona Brady, Nancy Coon, Katie Grady, Lee Hammond, Nancy Lemieux, Nancie Shryock, Steve Thomas and Erma Wieland. You may notice, some of these fine folks served in more than one capacity and we are especially grateful that they did.

Their willing volunteer spirit is one of the things that help make our Peoria County 4-H Fair such an outstanding event. Their efforts are much appreciated by the 4-H young people, their parents and the staff of Peoria County Extension. Thank you once again, for a job very well done.

Roger A. Larson, Peoria County Unit Leader
University of Illinois Extension

A three-page enclosure, prepared by University of Illinois Educators David Robson and Rhonda Feree, Extension Entomologist Dr. Phil Nixon and the U.S. Department of Agriculture accompanies this issue of the Master Gardener Journal. It addresses a serious health problem and the information is as reliable as it is possible to obtain. We ask you to read this material carefully and keep it handy for reference.

West Nile Virus is not a major health threat except for its unfortunate victims. There is no specific treatment but prevention is relatively easy. Please take this health problem seriously. In a small number of cases, the consequences of infection can be paralysis and death.