The sight of a sprinkler system on a timer, spraying water over a lawn when rain is falling is not much more absurd than the homeowner who waters his lawn with a sprinkler when the same amount of water will be much more effective if applied by trickling it onto the ground.

For those folks who live in rural areas without "city water," the well is their sole source of water. In years when the water table is low and rainfall has not recharged the soil's water reserves, the sound of a well pump sucking air is a vivid warning that there is a water supply problem and conservation is necessary. In cities, with central water systems, the sight of an ever-increasing water bill conveys the same message. Gardeners who must rely on their wells for water can supplement this by collecting rainwater in barrels or cisterns and pumping it to the garden. When the rainfall for your area is already 4 inches below normal, the sun is shining brightly every day and you have at least a month and a half of hot weather ahead, what can you to ease your garden's suffering? Things you can't do are amend the soil so it will retain more water, and choose plants that will accept drought as a normal part of life. These are tasks for next year.

Things you can do to help your annuals survive the summer, and your perennials survive to another year, are to provide water. Anyone can water the vegetable garden, the flowerbeds, trees and bushes. Doing this intelligently, so you provide the maximum of water with the least waste is where a bit of knowledge comes in. If watering is done in the morning before the sun has reached its peak, water evaporation will be minimized. Watering at night may be economical but keeping plant leaves wet over night invites fungal diseases.

Martha Smith, University of Illinois Extension Horticulture Educator, has some recommendations.

1) Remove plants that are just water robbers by weeding. Weeds are competitors for water and they give you nothing in return.

2) Modify the surface of the soil around your plants by covering it with mulch to reduce evaporation. A thin layer of dry, cut grass, shredded leaves or other plant material that can be worked into the soil at the end of the season will serve very well.

3) Stop fertilizing your plants. Feeding will encourage growth and growing increases plants' water needs.

4) Supply water without wasting it. The normal amount of water required for optimal plant growth and flowering is one inch every seven to ten days. Ideally this will occur in two or three rainfalls. If a sprinkler is used, the amount of water applied to a lawn, vegetable garden or flowerbed can be measured in a clean tuna or cat food can placed in a typical location in the area. In very hot weather, twice this amount may be needed. If the gardener waters with a sprinkling can, 5 gallons per square yard of garden will provide the requisite one-inch.

Water resources, even in locations that are not traditionally drought-prone, are not unlimited. Wasting water is one of the surest ways to damage the ecosystem. Spraying or sprinkling water over a large area allows the maximum evaporation in the air and on the leaves. A slow trickle from a soaker hose delivers the maximum amount of water to the plants with no runoff and little evaporation. Watering a lawn in the hottest days of summer is wasteful since the turf grasses will probably survive brief spells of drought. Trees and shrubs should be deep watered to prevent drought stress that will leave them vulnerable to insects, diseases and the severe effects of winter. It is cheaper to reseed a lawn than to replace a large tree.

The web site of the University of North Carolina Extension recently told of some "interesting" questions their Master Gardener volunteers were asked. They swore all of the questions were genuine and none were "made-up" for the occasion.

• A gentleman called asking: "What was the disease that my peach tree had before I cut it down last year?" A post mortem on a tree after a year would be a real challenge.
• The first question one novice volunteer received was: "I have two questions. First, I have some awful bamboo growing in my back yard. How can I get rid of it? My second question is, where can I get some bamboo to screen out my neighbor's house?" You really don't have to look too far.
• A distressed lady said: "I have alien eggs hatching in my compost pile. Can you come and take them away?" Sorry, we don't make house calls but you might try the "X-Files."
• A gentleman asked; when we moved into our new house the contractor said we should water our new lawn twice a day. How long should we continue to do this?" The volunteer asked how long have they been living there? The caller replied "Seven years." You can quit any time and only water as needed, unless you plan to grow rice.
• A lady caller wanted to know how she could get rid of the atheists on her houseplants? You could try reasoning with them.
• A new homeowner asked how best to plant bluegrass sod, green side up or down? It depends upon whether you want green bluegrass or brown bluegrass.
• A caller asked how he could get kudzu started on his property? Only one answer. DON'T.
  

By Dave Robson, Horticulture Educator
University of Illinois, U-C Extension

School days and the cooler days of September signal the time for apple harvest. In central Illinois, apple maturity is right on schedule this year. This means good maturity of major varieties by mid-to-late September. Gardeners can pick fruit at optimum maturity for best flavor. Local growers that sell pick-your-own or picked fruit try to market fruit in the best conditions.

The time for harvest is based on the condition and maturity of the fruit. The first indication of harvest time is when normal, unblemished fruit begins to drop. (Wormy and diseased fruits usually fall first.) The second indication is when the flesh color has turned from green to yellow-green as noted by the bottom end of the fruit. The taste test should indicate some sugar content rather than starchiness. Red apples should have good skin color. But just because the skin is red does not mean the apple is mature. There are red color types of major varieties that color early but mature at a normal time. When picked before they reach proper maturity, flavor will be lacking and full quality will never develop.

When all the maturity signs are present, the apple should pick easily with the stem attached to the fruit. This is done by rolling or twisting the apple away from the fruit spur. If apples are paired or clustered, grasp both or all of the fruits with the other hand while twisting off the first one. Avoid breaking the fruit spurs and branches in the trees, as this will reduce yields in subsequent years.

Picked fruits should be gently placed in a container and handled carefully thereafter to avoid bruising. Harvested apples should be kept cold for retention of flavor and quality. When stored at 33-35° F., apples change very little. At 40° F., the fruits ripen slowly, and at 60° F. or higher, maturation proceeds rapidly. Thus, a refrigerated storage is the ideal storage. The second choice is a good cave. Anything less than these should be short-term storage only.

In caves or basements, apples should be placed in a nearly airtight container. Plastic bags may be used, but constant inspection for excessive moisture and fruit rotting is needed. Plastic bags are an excellent container for holding apples in refrigerators. They should either be perforated slightly or folded loosely to permit a little moisture to escape. Open boxes or baskets permit moisture loss from the fruit, which lowers quality.

Excessive rains cause skin cracking as fruits are maturing. With this situation, the skin is tender and growth is rapid which results in the split or crack. Cork pitting or a corky depression in the skin and flesh is caused by a shortage of calcium sometime during the growing season. This shortage is usually caused by a brief period of adverse growing conditions such as deficient or excessive soil moisture. There is no cure for these problems and affected fruits are best processed for juice or sauce. The perfect fruits should be sorted for fresh eating and storage.

September is a harvest month but there are a few vegetables you can still plant for very late harvest. As your vegetable garden is cleared, weed seeds will be eagerly seeking the open ground. One of the best ways of keeping weeds out of the vacant soil is to plant a cover crop. Any late growing annual grass will be good, especially winter rye or buckwheat. They germinate and cover the ground with a mat of green. In spring this can be turned over and spaded in to make "green manure." You can improve the soil and prevent early spring weeds at the same time.

• July planted beans can be harvested throughout September.
• As late beets are ready they can be pulled late this month.
• The fall broccoli harvest begins in the later weeks.
• Cabbage will be ready to be cut throughout the month.
• Leaf lettuce for picking in October can be planted early in September.
• Onions should continue to be ready for pulling and curing.
• Sweet and hot peppers will be ready for picking all month.
• Very late radishes can be planted in the first half of September.
• Spinach planted in August will begin to ready as the weather cools in late September.
• Tomatoes will be available in abundance throughout September. Keeping them picked will keep them producing.
• Late turnips can still be planted in early September.
  

Growing herbs is easy and fun but the greatest pleasure comes from using them to their greatest advantage in the kitchen. This simple chart will provide the "kitchen garden" gardener some guidance on the best uses to be made of some of our common herbs.

Herb	Harvesting	Use
Anise	Harvest leaves as needed	Leaves in salads, stews; seeds for cookies, pastries
Basil	Pick leaves as needed	Leaves in tomato dishes, ground meats, soups, stews, salads
Coriander	Harvest plant when seeds ripen	Crushed seeds in meats, sauces, soups, cookies, salads
Dill	Pick leaves as flowers open	Seed heads in pickles, cheese, eggs; Seeds are ready when flat, brown. seeds in soup, sauces, vegetables
Summer Savory	Cut shoots when plant flowers	Leaves in meats, fish, soups, beans
Caraway	Seeds ripen about a month after flowering	Leaves in salads. Seeds in breads, cakes, soups
Parsley	Cut leaves as needed	In any non-sweet dish
Chive	Cut leaves as needed	Chopped leaves when onion flavor is desired
Garlic	Harvest bulbs when leaves dry	Cloves in meats, stews, salads
Mint	Use leaves any time	Peppermint leaves in fruit cocktails, ice cream. Spearmint in iced tea, lamb, jelly.
Oregano	Harvest leaves as needed	Leaves in soups, stews, salads
Rosemary	Leaves can be cut any time	Leaves in meat, sauces, soups
Sage	Cut leaves before flowering	Leaves in dressing, eggs, fish, meat dishes
Tarragon	Harvest leaves as needed	Leaves in salads, fish, poultry dishes
Thyme	Cut leaves any time	Leaves in most non-sweet foods

September is the last completely frost-free month of 2003. Some plants will end their productivity this month while some will continue until a hard freeze convinces them that the season is over. Keep flowers deadheaded and vegetables picked to take advantage of all they will give you.

First Week... September 1 through 7:

• Pull plants that have finished bearing and add to the compost pile.
• Cut or pull weeds to keep them from dropping seeds.
• Keeping broccoli florets picked will encourage the plant to keep producing new ones until frost.
• Plant winter rye or buckwheat seeds to cover bare ground in the vegetable garden. Turn this under in spring as green manure.
• Sow seeds for winter onions.
• Harvest the last peaches of the season and apples as they ripen.

Second Week... September 8 through 15:

• Don't fertilize roses anymore this season. Any new growth will not have time to harden before winter.
• It is one month before the average date of the first killing frost (October 12). Earlier light frosts are possible so be ready to cover tender plants you may want to save.
• If you are saving heirloom flower and vegetable seeds, collect them now before they disperse.
• Check your wildflower seed heads. Some can be invasive so deadhead the flowers. Dig out any excess plants.
• This is your last chance to dig and divide crowded daylilies. Trim off any dead tissue and replant. Start a new bed with any extras.
• Collect dropped fruit and add it to your compost pile. Left on the ground it can be messy and attract mice.
  

Third Week... September 16 through 24:

• A late planting of radishes is still possible.
• Sow winter onion seeds for sprouting in spring.
• Keep your tomatoes and peppers watered and picked. They can have weeks of production left.
• Mulch transplants well to hold moisture.
• Pick herbs for drying or freezing.
• When cutting late cabbages, cut just above the lowest leaves on the stem. Small and very flavorful heads will form in the leaf axils for later harvest.

Fourth Week.... September 25 through 31:

• Keep picking sweet peppers but leave a few to ripen. Yellow and green sweet peppers will turn red and develop a new and delicious flavor.
• Keep pulling weeds in the vegetable garden and flowerbeds. They are developing seed heads now and will come back to haunt you in spring.
• Leave the flower heads of Purple Coneflowers and Sunflowers to mature and feed wild birds over winter.
• Brussels sprouts will continue to develop. The more you pick the more they will produce but leave some to sweeten after frost.
• Your pine trees may be dropping their inner needles. This is normal and will provide "pine straw" for use as mulch.

If you mail order bulbs, ask that delivery before November be guaranteed.

Gourds should be cured or dried for at least 2 to 4 weeks before using. Many gourds used for utility purposes such as dippers, birdhouses or other containers should be pierced with a wire at the neck and hung until thoroughly dry. A dried gourd will be lightweight and sound hollow when thumped.

Wash gourds before drying to be sure they are free of soil and other garden debris. Gourds are often dipped in a weak bleach solution of one part chlorine bleach to 10 parts water to sterilize the surface and prevent rotting.

Hang gourds for drying in a warm location with little moisture. After drying, the gourd's exterior can be polished with wax or shellac.
A few gourds will develop interesting fungal patterns on their surface as they dry. The fungal growth doesn't appear to alter the quality of the dried gourd and may actually improve its appearance.

When rainfall is much below normal and the lawn is dry and brown showing the effects of drought stress, many homeowners become concerned. Turf grasses are well equipped to withstand drought. This is less true of trees and perennials plants.

Horticulturist Sandy Mason of University of Illinois Extension has the following information and advice. "Trees can show drought stress in a variety of ways. Leaves may wilt, droop, turn yellow, show early fall color, turn brown at the tips or margins, curl or show all of these symptoms. Green leaves, stems, roots and fruits may shrink. Shrinking can cause radial cracks in tree trunks."

"The leaves of some trees such as ash, linden, hickory and black locust will usually turn yellow and drop early. Many plants including burning bush, river birch, flowering dogwood, Callery pear and certain red maple cultivars may show early fall color. Severe water shortage in pines during the summer can cause needles to bend or droop near the needle base. Needles then either fade and turn brown or remain green and permanently bent.

"Perhaps a more important result of water stress (too much or too little) is the plant's increased susceptibility to some insects and diseases. Water stress can have long-term effects on trees and other perennial plants."

"It's not too late to help your plants. Water any stressed plants now to encourage recovery. Apply enough water to penetrate deeply within the drip line. Large trees have roots extending well beyond the drip line so get your neighbor to water too. For large trees, sprinklers are probably the best watering method. Water early in the morning to reduce water loss through evaporation."

Another effect that drought can have on perennial plants is to limit the production and storage of food the plants, from herbaceous perennials to trees, will need to survive the winter. Keeping perennial plants well supplied with water in times of drought can be crucial in insuring their survival through the winter.

Very few gardeners know everything there is to know about gardening. It is with the rest of us who are toiling in the soil that these hints are shared.

• Leave no soil uncovered. After your vegetable crops have finished bearing and it is too late to make a late planting, plant a cover crop of an annual grass or similar crop. Annual winter rye and buckwheat are good examples. If you don't want to plant anything cover the soil with a 2 or 3-inch thick layer of organic mulch such as shredded leaves or dry grass clippings. This will cover the ground and keep new weed seeds from finding soil on which to begin growing.
• Planting new trees and shrubs is appropriate in fall but since this has been a very dry summer it would be wise to soak the soil in which you plan to plant. After digging the hole for the new plant, fill the hole with water and let it drain into the soil. Repeat this until it takes three hours for the water to drain out. The new plant will be able to send its roots into damp soil and get a good start on establishing itself before winter.
• Do not neglect your compost pile. After the recent dry weather, wetting and turning the pile may be necessary. The microorganisms in the pile need oxygen and water to convert plant debris into compost. Any finished compost can be screened and bagged for later use around the base of rose bushes and other perennials for winter protection.
  

Peoria County Master Gardeners who are interested in any of these Projects may contact the Project Leaders through the Peoria County Extension Office 685-3140

Bel-Wood Nursing Home Therapy Gardening
6701 W. Plank Road, Bellevue, IL. Thursdays 9:30 AM to Noon for planting & maintenance of 4 courtyard gardens. Other times by arrangement with Courtyard Leaders. March – October Project Leader: Barbara Loar

Community Flower Bed Gardening Volunteers
Gardens & flowerbeds at Peoria County Courthouse, U.of I. Medical School & Grandview Park Memorial. Scheduled times for planting. Weeding & maintenance any time.April – October Project Leader: Lynn Webb

ICC/MG Demonstration Garden Volunteers
Demonstration Garden adjacent to the ICC Arboretum & Land Lab.
Tuesday, Thursday & Saturday 9:30 AM for planting, maintenance & hardscape construction. Earlier in warm weather. Anytime for weeding & maintenance. April – October Project Leader: John Armbruster
[Joint project with Tazewell & Woodford County MGs]

"In the Garden" Radio Program Volunteers
Radio studio of WMBD-AM, Jefferson Bldg., Peoria Saturdays, 6 AM to 8 AM. Broadcasting live on gardening topics. Quarterly meetings on 3rd Thursdays Mar., June, Sept. & Dec. at 1:00 PM. January – December Project Leaders: Lee Hammond & Bob Coppernoll
[Joint project with Tazewell & Woodford County MGs]

Luthy Botanical Garden Assistance Volunteers
Luthy Botanical Garden, Glen Oak Park, 2218 N. Prospect Rd., Peoria
Assist Botanical Garden Staff in planting and maintaining plants in Conservatory and in outdoors beds. Any time Garden & Conservatory are open, Tuesday through Sunday 8 AM to 4 PM
January – December Project Leader: Holli Cook

Master Gardener JOURNAL Volunteers
Peoria County Extension office, 4810 N. Sheridan Rd., Peoria. Writers, illustrators & editors work independently to prepare a monthly newsletter for area Master Gardeners. At the end of each month, from 8:30 AM –1 PM, the newsletter is printed & assembled in the Peoria Extension office for local distribution &mailing. Project Leader: Bill Sullivan
[Joint project with Tazewell & Woodford County MGs]

Parc Enabling Garden Volunteers
Parc Training Center, 1913 W. Towline Rd., Peoria
Hours to be scheduled by Parc Staff. Present horticulture training & projects to Parc staff for them to teach the clients at Parc. January- December Project Leader: Angela Zimmerman

Peoria County Youth Farm Gardens Volunteers
Four vegetable gardens at the County Youth Farm, Hanna City.
Fridays 8 AM to Noon. Mentor residents in developing gardening skills.
April – October Project Leader: Karen Ratledge

Plant A Row for the Hungry Volunteers
PAR Garden at Redeemer Lutheran Church, Allen Road, Peoria.
Monday mornings 8:30 AM for planting & harvesting. Anytime for weeding & maintenance. April – October
Project Leaders: Helen Nixon & Patrice Swanson

Peoria County "Speakers Bureau" Volunteers
At meetings of Service Clubs, Churches & other public groups.
Morning, afternoon or evening meeting times of host groups.
Present program on any aspect of gardening. January – December
Project Co-Leaders: Judy Ziemba & Bob Coppernoll

Peoria County Telephone "Help-Line" Volunteers
Peoria County Extension office 4810 N. Sheridan Rd., Peoria
Monday- Friday, 9 AM – 12 Noon. Answer gardening questions, usually by telephone. April – October Project Leader: Nancy Lemieux.

Tazewell County Master Gardeners interested in any of these projects may contact the Project Leaders by calling them at the number listed.

4-H Programs
Work with area school children & teachers to plant seeds & evaluate the results (May). Participate in the Tazewell County 4 – H Fair & Junior Show (July or August) as judges or other tasks as needed. Virginia Kuo at the Extension office (347-6614)

Tazewell County Speaker's Bureau
Speak as a Master Gardener representative to outside groups such as school classes & garden clubs. Bud Potts (359-3271)

Tazewell County Help-Line
Answer gardening questions received by phone or from homeowners who stop by the Extension office – mornings May through September. Guidelines have been set up for responding to e-mail inquiries. These come via the Ag/Hort web site at http://www.pekin.net

Family Nutrition Program
Summer youth gardens, seed give-away and container gardening activity.
Carol Erickson at the Extension office (347-6614)

Office work at/for the Extension Office
John Croft at the Extension office (347-6614)

Fon du Lac Park District
The Garden Guild plans many activities suited to community service hours. Examples are Victorian Hosta Garden, Enabling Garden Program & Wildflower Walks. Call 699-3923 for details.

Writing news releases, columns or stories
For area newspapers, MG Journal or pekin.net horticultural page.

Organize New Projects
Invent/create new projects related to gardening & Master Gardeners. Examples: Stepping-Stone Project, East Peoria Public Library Garden, Washington Nursing Home Garden, Morton Park District Planter at Idlewood Park or Pekin Community Gardens.

Flower Shows and Garden Walks
Judge & help area flower shows. Assist with local garden walks.

Tri-County Activities

ICC Demonstration Garden
Sunita Shastry (444-7565) or Keith Rakestraw (699-0425)

Master Gardener Radio Show on WMBD
Sunita Shastry (444-7565)

Tri-County Garden Day

Luthy Botanical Garden Volunteer Assistance

Staff Master Gardener information booths at various festivals
& garden days.

Master Gardner Training Courses
John Croft at the Extension office.

New Programs Being Developed:

Plant a Row for the Hungry – Vicki Gustafson (444-6247)
Leave No Child Behind - Norman Seest (449-6247)

Final Note: Watch the Master Gardener Journal each month for new volunteer possibilities and for names of contact persons. If you wish to work on a project in a neighboring county, there shouldn't be any problem: however, please check first with the Ag/Hort coordinator or Unit Leader in that county. Your hours should then be reported to and credited to Tazewell County. Make sure the activities in which you participate have been approved by University of Illinois Extension so that the University's liability protection covers you in your Master Gardener volunteer service. If you have any questions, contact John Croft at the Tazewell County Extension office (347-6614).

Woodford County Master Gardeners who are interested in any of these projects may contact the Project Leaders by calling the Woodford County Extension Office at (309) 467-3789.

ICC/MG Demonstration Garden Volunteers
Demonstration Garden adjacent to the ICC Arboretum & Land Lab.
Tuesday, Thursday & Saturday 9:30 AM for planting, maintenance & hardscape construction. Earlier in warm weather. Anytime for weeding & maintenance. April – October . Chairs – Joni Wolffe and Mary Dart
[Joint project with Peoria & Tazewell County MGs]

"In the Garden" Radio Program Volunteers
Radio studio of WMBD-AM, Jefferson Bldg., Peoria Saturdays, 6 to 8 AM. Broadcast live on gardening topics. January – December. Quarterly meetings on 3rd Thursdays Mar., June, Sept. & Dec. at 1:00 PM
Project Leaders: Mary Dart & Lee Hammond
[Joint project with Peoria & Tazewell County MGs]

Woodford County "Speakers Bureau" Volunteers
Provide programs at Service Club, Church, Nursing Home & other public group meetings. Morning, afternoon or Evening at meeting times of host groups. Present program on any aspect of gardening. January – December. Contact the Woodford County Extension Office (309) 467-3789

"Tri-County Garden Day Committee" Volunteers
Develop and implement a daylong springtime gardening program.
Monthly organizational meetings, or Coordinate Woodford Booth.
Contact the Woodford County Extension Office (309) 467-3789

"3rd Grade Plant Science Program" Volunteers
Conduct two classroom programs in coordination with Extension Staff to teach plant science to third graders. Spring as scheduled with the schools. Contact the Woodford County Extension Office (309) 467-3789

Snyder Village Retirement Center Garden Assistance Volunteers
Snyder Village Retirement Center, Metamora, IL
Assist Residents and Staff in planting & maintaining flowerbeds.
Spring, Summer and Fall. Project Leaders: Ann Heisler

Woodford County "Questions - Help-Line" Volunteers
Answer gardening questions from the public. April – October
Contact Woodford County Extension Office (309) 467-3789

"Horticulture Telenet Series Hosts/Hostess"
Take registrations on site, operate Power Pointe Presentation equipment, distribute evaluation, and answer questions. As scheduled by the State.
Contact Woodford County Extension Office (309) 467-3789

"Eureka! Lilac Festival & Fine Arts Faire" Volunteers
Potting about 500 lilac starts. Selling starts at Eureka Lilac Festival, end of April. Contact Woodford County Extension Office (309)467-3789

• Fall is a time for cleaning up after summer and getting ready for winter. Pruning is not a recreational activity. Unnecessary pruning is a waste of time and can be damaging to the tree or shrub. Even if your lopping shears are sharp and you have a new chain in your chain saw, prune what needs pruning but know when to stop.
• Don't prune spring flowering shrubs after the buds are set. Wait until the flowers have finished blooming next spring.
• Do prune summer flowering shrubs because they will grow new wood in spring to bear flowers.
• Do prune away damaged or weak branches from trees that are near utility lines or that overhang buildings. Winter storms, ice and snow may bring them down.
• Don't prune roses after October 1. They will try to put out new growth and this will be too tender to survive the winter.
• Don't prune oaks until after November 1. The tree's sap should have stopped flowing so wounds won't ooze and the beetles that carry Oak Wilt Disease will be dormant.
• Don't prune (cut back) your ornamental grasses until spring. They have much to add to the fall and winter landscape. Wait until new growth just begins to appear in March or early April.
  

Every year we notice that certain plants are beautiful up until the heat arrives. They fade and wither, leaving us with only the memories of what once was. To keep these plants looking good, watering becomes a nightmare during high heat and periods of no rainfall. Don't despair - with proper all summer planning your garden can look its best all season long.

In recent years, low-water usage gardening has started to gain interest. Xeriscaping refers to this type of gardening. "The term xeriscape often brings visions of parched desert landscapes," explains Martha Smith, Horticulture Educator, University of Illinois Extension. "A xeriscape can be colorful, attractive and inviting while requiring far less water than traditional landscapes." By following a few basic tips, you can be on your way to using less water and still enjoy a colorful garden.

1. Group plants according to water needs - plant thirsty plants in the same area so when watering you can concentrate on specific areas rather than blanket watering.
2. Build soil lips or basins around plants to direct water to plant roots. Depending on plant size this basin should be 3 to 18 inches from base of plant.
3. Mulching your gardens will retain soil moisture.
4. Keep beds weed free - they are taking up water that could be used by your desirable plant material.
5. If your soil drains too quickly, amend it by adding moisture holding organic matter.
6. Pick the right plant for the right spot - Choose plants that thrive in hot, dry conditions

The following is a list of some popular blooming 'dog day' plants.

Celosia or cockscomb (Celosia argentea plumosa or C. argentea cristata) is unique for its unusual feathery or brain-like flowers of bright red, yellow, orange and pink. Celosia is an annual that may grow from six inches to 4 feet tall depending on the variety. Bring fresh cut celosia inside for an excellent cut flower, or hang it to dry.

Spider Flower (Cleome hasslerana) can reach 4 to 5 feet tall in full sun. The unique spider-like flowers are rose, violet or white. Cleome is an annual, meaning it grows from seed every year. It will re-seed freely in your garden.

Gomphrena or Globe Amaranth (Gomphrena globosa) blooms in a variety of bright colors including purple, orange, red, rose and pink. Generally grows 1 to 2 feet tall. This is an old fashioned flower that is easy to grow. Makes an excellent dried flower that holds its color well. Pick just as the flowers open fully and hang upside down to dry.

Madagascar Periwinkle or Annual Vinca (Catharanthus roseus) is a plant that seems to thrive in hot areas. Its lush, dark green foliage is somewhat glossy and forms a 2-foot tall mound. Annual vinca is available in white, pink, purple and bicolors. If you have a difficult southern exposure to work with, try this annual. It is slow to start if spring temperatures are cool and it does not tolerate wet areas

Threadleaf Coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata) is a perennial that will reach 18 to 24 inches in height. It has yellow, daisy-like flowers that last from late spring to late summer. Best if grown in a dry, full sun area.

Orange Coneflower (Rubdeckia fulgida) is the perennial form of Black-eyed Susan. It's cheery, yellow/orange daisy flowers brighten up the August garden.

Blanket Flower (Gaillardia species) is a perennial available in a variety of hot colors from golden yellow to mahogany red. Cultivars are available in a range of sizes with most growing in the 2-foot height range. Blanket Flower tolerates dry soil and temperatures of 90° plus.

All the above-mentioned plants will survive the hot days of late summer with very little attention and care except an occasional pruning off of the old blossoms. Try one or two next year and enjoy your garden all season long

Nature's palette of colors is not limited, but in late summer she seems to prefer yellow. To see the yellow Prairie or Gray-headed Coneflowers, yellow Tiger Swallowtail Butterfly and male Goldfinches, still retaining their bright yellow plumage is to see nature's sunniest color at its best.

The bearers of these colors will soon depart or change. The Coneflowers will dry and fade as their season ends. The butterflies will be on their way for their winter lodgings and the Goldfinches, though they will stay, will change their plumage to a less spectacular combination of olive, gray, brown with bits of yellow. Considering the more drab colors of winter, the Goldfinch will serve as a reminder of the colors of seasons yet to come.