This project was undertaken in order to compare the efficacy of a biodegradable mulch developed at USDA/ARS/NCAUR with newspaper/straw and bare soil for stopping weed growth and promoting vegetable yields. The USDA mulch was made from brown kraft paper, either 30 lb. or 40 lb., coated with epoxidized soybean oil/citric acid resin and a small amount of carbon black colorant. This mulch can be rolled out like polyethylene mulch film but will transmit water and gradually biodegrade in soil. Therefore, the coated paper mulch need not be removed at the end of the season like polyethylene.

There were four different mulch treatments (30 lb coated paper, 40 lb coated paper, newspaper/straw, bare soil), each of which were replicated three times in randomized order. Tomato and pepper plants were planted in adjacent rows with spacings of 1.5-2 ft. between plants and 3-4 ft. between rows. Planting took place in early June. Mulch samples were cut into 6 ft. x 2 ft. lengths then cut from the side with scissors to allow the mulch to be placed around the plants. Edges of the mulches were then weighed down with soil (peppers) or held in place by cages (tomatoes).

The bare soil plots were hand weeded over the summer. Vegetables were harvested weekly beginning July 21 until September 15. Total number as well as weight of vegetables was measured. Soil temperature at a depth of four inches as well as mulch appearance were estimated periodically.

As shown in the Table below, there was no significant difference in yields between the different mulch types. The coated paper and newspaper/straw mulches were effective in preventing weed growth around the plants while laborious hand weeding was required for the bare soil plots. There was some degradation (a few cracks, holes) beginning for the coated paper mulches after three months but not enough to allow much weed penetration. Soil temperatures under the newspaper/straw mulches were about five degrees celsius cooler during the day than under the coated paper mulches or bare soil. This is probably due to the lighter color and insulative properties of the straw and newspaper. The oil coated paper mulches had a dark brown color similar to soil.

In conclusion, paper/polymerized vegetable oil mulches were effective in preventing weed growth and gave yields of vegetables similar to the newspaper/straw mulch or hand-weeded plots. For many people hand-weeding is a tedious and difficult task so use of a weed-blocking mulch would be desirable.

Application of the paper/oil mulch might be a little easier than newspaper since it is in a roll form. The warmer soil temperature under the paper/oil mulch may also be an advantage in cooler climates or early in the season when temperatures are lower.

Participants in the project included Randal Shogren, Elizabeth Krietemeyer and Debra Palmquist of USDA/ARS, Master Gardeners Lynn Webb, Helen Nixon and Patrice Swanson and Monica David of U. of IL Extension. Thanks also to Redeemer Lutheran Church in Peoria for the generous donation of land and water and to Greenview Nursery for donation of vegetable plants.

Mulch	Total Tomato Yield		Total Pepper Yield
	Number	Weight (lb.)	Number	Weight (lb.)
30 lb. kraft paper/oil	177	82	144	25
40 lb. kraft paper/oil	198	83	106	18
newspaper/straw	167	119	101	18
bare soil	171	79	123	21

That's right. We'd better believe in tomorrow, because we'll never be finished in one day, one month or one year.

Continuing my journey toward a presentable front lawn is more like two steps forward; five steps back game of "Mother May I." Just when I began to see new grass coming up, torrential rains came and washed part of it away. I broadcast more seed and just a few days later hundred of maple seeds descended.

I couldn't rake them up without disturbing the new seed in the mud so an unbelievably short time later (faster than any seed I've planted has ever germinated), hundreds of little Maple trees sprouted. Still more rain and deeper mud kept me from pulling out my young forest and it grew and grew and grew.

In between rains I've been planting and then transplanting what I've planted as friends give me more perennials and the tulips slowly turn brown.

I'm realizing I'm not a landscaper, I'm a gardener. No reason why one can't be BOTH but I really want to try as many different plants as I can and that doesn't always lend itself to a well planned yard. I need to plant my own garden not go by a picture in a magazine. The joy of watching plants grow and colors begin to glow; of seeing nature's own pattern take shape, not one I've forced on nature is worth all the digging, planting, transplanting and mud that goes on each Spring and Fall.

For now I'm content to wait for the soil to dry a little, so I can uproot the little Maple trees. Then maybe the grass will even out and the perennials will bloom.

Maybe by this Fall I'll be able to see what is doing well and where some plants might do better. Maybe.

- Terry Finan

• Check roses and spirea for aphids. Remove with a hard spray of water.
• Check roses for black spot. Pick off infected leaves and dispose of in trash. Spray roses with fungicide.
• After roses have bloomed, scratch in a cupful of 10-10-10 fertilizer around each plant. To keep roses continuously blooming roses continuing to bloom, deadhead.
• Fertilize asparagus and let plants continue to grow so that you will have a good crop next year. Fertilize with 10-10-10; two lbs. per hundred square feet.
• Apply a complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 (one lb per 100 sq. ft) alongside dahlias and gladiolas.
• Houseplants do better summering outside, but need to be placed in a shaded area...at least until they have accommodated to the stronger light. They will actually get sunburned if placed in the sun when first placed outside.
• Edible peapods are best picked when the pods have just begun to fill.
• Daffodils can be moved now. Lift and replant with one T. of bulb fertilizer placed in the bottom of the hole. Do not cut foliage until yellow and withered. Water well.
• Prune lightly Type 1 clematis; ex. Montanas, after they have bloomed. These will not bloom again until next year as they bloom on old wood. Type II clematis (most of the large flowered types) should also be pruned after they have bloomed. They will rebloom in Aug.–Sept., depending on the cultivar. Type III clematis (Polish Spirit , the viticellas, and Sweet Autumn, have yet to bloom).
• Apply a second fertilization to the lawn from the middle to the end of June. Water in well. If you have followed the recommendations of the Extension, your lawn will be thick and fairly weed free. Spot treat the few weeds that appear.
• Mow grass at the highest level when temperatures are high. The foliage shades the ground reducing evaporation and the stress on the roots.
• Tie your staked tomatoes. Tuck in shoots of caged tomatoes so that the plant stays in the cage.
• If you want your hosta to grow faster, remove flowers after they have finished blooming before seed heads form. The seed pods of Siberian Iris look great in the winter. But don't allow all the pods to form on your plant; your plant will be stronger and bloom more vigorously next year.
• Note the plants that will not work or grow well in your garden so you can avoid trying them again next year.

- Nancy Crawford