❑ Houseplants will be reinvigorated if they spend the

summer outside. They will get sunburned adjusting to the

stronger light. Condition them by placing them in the shade

for 7-10 days.

❑ Stop picking asparagus as the weather warms but let

plants continue to grow so that you will have a good crop

next year. Fertilize with 10-10-10; 2lbs per 100 square feet.

❑ Daffodils, squill, snowdrops, and other minor bulbs can

be moved now as the foliage has started to yellow but has

not withered away.You can do this if the bulbs have become

too crowded or you would like them in another spot. Place

1T. of bulb fertilizer in the bottom of the planting hole. Do not

cut foliage until it has withered. Water well. It is easier to

move the bulbs at this time where you still know where they

are.

❑ Since we have had so much rain and have good ground

moisture, many perennials have just "taken off". Shear

chrysanthemums and asters in half; also cut back phlox,

catmint, sedum Autumn Joy (if it flopped last year) salvia

(after blooming), tansy, agastache, artemesias and goldenrod.

This pruning should made these plants bushier and

less likely to flop. Prune cranesbill geraniums after they

have bloomed to make them bushier. The newer cranesbills

which bloom all summer such as Roxanne, do not need

heavy pruning--maybe only a pinch.

❑ If your Annabelle hydrangeas flopped because the

flowers got too big, you can cut them back by half the

middle of June. You will have smaller flowerheads, but they

are less likely to flop.

❑ Clematis: Prune lightly Type 1 clematis (such as

Montanas, after they have bloomed.) They will not bloom

again until next year on the wood they produced this

growing season. Prune Type II clematis (many of the large

flowered types) after they have bloomed. They will rebloom

again depending on the cultivar. Don't prune Type III

clematis--they have yet to bloom. Be sure to plant something

bushy in front of this type, as it often shows it "legs"

and loses foliage at the bottom as the summer goes on.

❑ Prune those bushes that have flowered now. Next years

flowers form on this season's wood. Check your viburnums,

burning bush, etc. to see if they need renewal pruning.

❑ If you want your hostas to grow faster, remove flowers

after they have finished blooming before seedheads form.

❑ Apply a complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 (1 lb per 100

sq. feet) alongside dahlias and gladiolas.

❑ Slugs and earwigs may hide under mulch and attack

plants at night. If you have had a problem in past years,

you might consider not applying a mulch to that area. If

your plants have scalloped bites on the edges of the

leaves, you have earwigs. Apply an insecticide such a

Sevin (after dusk so the bees won't be affected.)

❑ Rabbits can be a real problem in early summer. They

love lettuce, carrots, etc. A fence is the only way to prevent

them, although I intend to try Liquid Fence--thinking it will

wear off by the time I eat my lettuce. (I'll let you know).

Newly transplanted annuals are so tasty to rabbits at this

time of year--either fence them for a few weeks or apply a

rabbit repellant.

❑ Check your pines for sawfly. The green larvae can

defoliate a branch very quickly. A strong stream of water

should knock the larvae off of the plant. If that fails, apply

an insecticide. It is time to stake the plants that need

support as they grow (hopefully your notes from last year

will tell you which ones need staking).

❑ After roses have finished first flush of bloom, scratch in a

cupfull of 10-10-10 around each plant. Be sure your spray

program is in force as you need to treat for blackspot

before the disease begins. I prefer using a complete 3 in 1

fertilizer for my roses which feeds, protects against disease

and insects. I start this in May, but you could still start this

now. You have to reapply every 4-6 weeks.

❑ Apply a 2nd fertilization to your lawn toward the middle

to end of June. Water in well. Spot treat weeds as they

appear. Cabbage worms will attack cabbage, broccoli,

cauliflower and collards. Control with Bacillus thuringiensis

kurstaki which is sole under many brand names. If your

plants are in a row, place a white row cover over plants

immediately after planting (keeps the cabbage butterflies

from depositing the worms.)

❑ Squash vine borers will destroy zucchini, squash and

pumpkin plants at the soil line, Spray the base of stems

with Sevin after dusk to avoid injury to bees.

❑ Continue tying tomato plant to stakes. Tuck shoots of

caged tomatoes so the plant stays in the cage.

❑ Remember anything you transplant need special

attention for about three weeks before it recognizes its new

home. Water newly planted shrubs or trees at least once a

week. Annuals and perennials should be watered every

other day, or possibly daily if we have hot windy days.

Purchased plant material today is planted in pots of soiless

mix. This is a complete shock to plants when they are

transplanted and have to deal with real soil...maybe a very

clayey one. When planting, be sure to shake off as much

soiless mix as possible, mixing it with the "real soil". Then

"baby" the plant until it establishes. ( A vacation and new

transplants don't seem to work) Edible peapods are best

picked when the pods have just begun to fill.

- Nancy Crawford