• The most important task in early September is to concentrate on your lawn. This is the best time to seed, core aerate, power rake (if you have lots of thatch} and give your lawn it's third feeding. After core aeration, let plugs of soil dry for a day, and then pick up with lawn mower. Dump your plugs on the compost pile for great dirt next spring.
• Deep watering is another very important task this month as we are in a severe drought mode. Water large trees every 2 –3 weeks. Apply 2 inches of water under the entire area beneath the tree. Set a can under the sprinkler to measure the water. Water more often any newly set shrubs, trees, or plants. It takes a tree about 18 months to fully establish so it will be under special watering attention for that length of time.
• A good soaking, less frequently,is always better than frequent light watering.
• Mulch can revive large mature trees, especially oaks. Mulch under the entire branch spread of the tree. Make sure the mulch is not piled up against the trunk of the tree so rodents can make nests and eat the bark of the tree.
• Mow down or cut off leaves of daylilies and other perennials whose foliage has yellowed. Be sure to remove seed heads of phlox so they don't reseed. Often only ugly purple seedling result.
• Continue deadheading annuals such a marigolds, zinnias, and daisies for continuing bloom (if the heat of the summer hasn't taken its toll on you as a gardener.)
• Let plants acquire dormancy on their own. Do not feed, water or prune excessively.
• On your established shrubs, limit pruning to removing diseased, damaged, or broken stems. Late pruning may stimulate soft growth which won't harden off for winter.
• Do not fertilize trees until the leaves have dropped.
• Keep broccoli florets picked to keep encouraging the plant to produce new growth.
• Save toes from a head of garlic; plant with points straight up; harvest garlic bulbs next August.
• This is the best time to divide and plant peonies. Make sure there are at least 3 "eyes" per division. These "eyes" should be planted no more than 1 1/2 inches below the soil line. Peonies that are planted too deeply often fail to bloom. Peonies like a dusting of wood ashes or bone meal. Make note which peonies "flopped" this year; and remember to apply a peony ring for support next spring as growth is beginning.
• Tree peonies prefer only a spring and fall feeding of fish emulsion fertilizer. If you are growing Quaking Grass, be sure to cut seed heads before they fall.(The stems with seedheads are beautiful in arrangements) This, like Blackberry Lilly can seed enough to be considered invasive. Grasses in bulb plantings are hard to eliminate. While bulbs are below ground, spray the area with Roundup. Bulbs will not be harmed.
• Plant daffodils this month or in early October. They need to be planted earlier than tulips. If they don't have time to form roots before the soil freezes, they will perhaps rot. Dig up clumps of daffodils that don't seem to bloom as vigorously (if you can remember where they were). Amend soil with bone meal or bulb food, and replant only the larger bulbs. Line out small ones in a special nursery bed as they will not bloom for a year or two.
• Kentucky bluegrass and chickweed (which is germinating now) may be present in your flower or vegetable beds. Dig out now to avoid a larger and more difficult plant to dig out next spring.
• Trim back oregano, basil, and chives; then pot up and (after new growth has begun) bring indoors.
• Bring topical plants indoors before temperatures drop at night below 45°. First wash off leaves with a hose, spray with insecticide at least two time (one week apart), before bringing inside.
• Make notes of this past growing season; what needs staking, what grew well, plants you would like to add or delete, what bloomed when and with what, etc.

- Kathy Crawford

"August is the month to divide perennials such as day lilies, iris, and the spring flowering bulbs, like tulips, daffodils and crocuses. These plants tend to become overgrown after a number of years and flowering is reduced," states David Robson, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

Carefully dig the plants from the ground. Shake off as much soil as you can. Gently scrub off the remaining soil so that the root structure may be examined. Spread the bulbs out to dry. Be sure to label them so you know what is what.

Examine the iris and daylily roots (rhizomes). With a sharp knife, cut out all injured or diseased parts and discard them. Then divide the rhizomes into clumps, each having a large piece of rhizome and at least two fans of leaves. Large divisions will flower next year. Small divisions may take an extra year.

After they have dried, sort the bulbs by size, discarding the diseased bulbs. The largest bulbs will flower next spring. You may wish to plant the smaller ones in a nurse bed to develop for a year or two.

Since perennials will occupy the same spot in the garden for several years, work the soil carefully, adding bone meal and organic matter to improve fertility and drainage. Dust the rhizomes and bulbs with a good fungicide before planting. The rhizomes should be spaced 12 to 18 inches apart and planted one to two inches deep in the prepared soil. Water them in thoroughly with a trickle hose.

Plant the bulbs at the correct depth. This varies from type to type. Plant in groups or clumps for mass effect next spring.

If the soil has been worked up well, bulbs can be planted by hand, or use a bulb planter. If you are planning to start a new flower garden, plants and bulbs are available in garden centers now. Get started before the fall rush. You'll be glad next year that you did, Robson concludes.

Iris are one of the stalwarts of the spring perennial garden, states David Robson, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator. Their color and texture are considered second to none. However, iris can be described as "finicky" and need yearly attention to keep them at their peak.

Iris grow in clumps from bulbs, rhizomes or a massive root system. Each type is different - bearded iris are more rhizomatous while Dutch iris are from bulbs. Japanese and Siberian iris are more "root system" oriented. Yet, iris have a similar characteristic. Once the iris produces a fan of leaves and a bloom, that fan will never produce another bloom. In order to maximize flower production, iris need to be lifted and divided at least every three to five years to ensure maximum blooms.

Plants are divided during the hot part of August, usually between the middle and end of the month. Dividing and replanting by September 1 guarantees establishment of the planting before winter with little kill.

The later the division, the more likely plants will suffer winter drying. Flower production the following year also decreases with later transplanting.

Clumps should be dug and most of the soil washed away from the root system or rhizome. Inspect clumps carefully for diseased or insect damaged roots/rhizomes. Remove those pieces and compost. Clumps can be divided with a sharp knife. Make sure each section contains a fan, a two to three inch piece of rhizome for bearded iris and a strong root system. The best bets are the new fans produced this spring and summer. Old fans will not bloom again, but produce additional fans in following years. Gardeners will have to wait an additional year before seeing flowers.

Set iris rhizomes an inch below the ground and firm the soil. Water thoroughly. By next spring, the soil will have settled around the plant and the rhizome should be at ground level. Cut the fans back by half with a pair of scissors to limit wilting. Fans still may fall over due to the transplanting.

Japanese and Siberian clumps should be divided with a sharp knife or shovel. It is difficult to distinguish old fans from those produced this year. Therefore, there is little need to separate out the old fans. Make sure there are at least 3 fans per Japanese or Siberian iris planting.

Bulbous iris can be separated and replanted in September or October with other spring flowering bulbs. Make sure plants receive adequate moisture throughout the fall to avoid winter injury.

BONSAI CLUB - Meetings are changed. I will contact anyone
who contacts me. Call Lee Tolzdorf at 347-7380 for info.

HERB GUILD - Meetings held at the Womens Club, 301 N. Madison, Peoria.
Sept 13th 7 pm - Garlic with Roseanne Tomko
Oct 11th 7 pm - Basils harvest with Erin Meyer
Nov 8th 7 pm - Flower Arrangement with Bob Monier
Dec 13th 6:30 pm - Christmas Party
Info? Call Kris Plunkett, VP, Peoria Herb Guild, 382-1067

ORCHID SOCIETY MEETINGS - every first Sun. at 1:30pm at the
Lakeview Museum. Contact Jane Jones, 383-4022 or Elliot/Pam Fox,
689-0733.

PEORIA EVENING GARDEN CLUB - Call Kris Plunkett, Peoria Evening Garden Club, 382-1067 for details.

PEORIA GARDEN CLUB - Meetings are every third Thurs. from Sept to May, at 12 noon at Lakeview Museum. (Membership is required after first visit...$20/yr.)

WEST PEORIA GARDEN CLUB - Meetings are every thirdMon. at 7pm, West Peoria City Hall, 2506 W. Rohmann Ave. Contact Pat
Sharp, 676-5751.

What perennials can be divided and replanted in late summer?

Some perennials can be divided and replanted in late August. Hosta, daylilies, iris and peonies are good examples. As they age, these plants can develop a dead center, with shoots growing in a ring around it. This is a good sign that it's time to divide. Other signs may include fewer and smaller blooms. Other spring blooming perennials can be divided in the late summer/early fall period.

About Groundcovers

The most widely planted groundcover in today's landscape is turfgrass. Turfgrass covers the soil in almost every conceivable place. Most of the time it succeeds in providing a suitable cover. Yet, sometimes unsuitable growing conditions prevent its continued success. Other groundcovers may provide solutions to a landscaping challenge or just add a bit of much needed texture and color.

Groundcover plants, when properly taken care of, provide dense soil cover, retard weed growth, and prevent soil erosion. Groundcovers range in height from an inch to four feet. They can be woody or herbaceous; clumping or running; evergreen or deciduous. There is a broad array of colors and textures to choose from.

Groundcovers not only solve problems but also unify different components in the landscape. Non-spreading types of groundcovers can be used as hedging material, traffic barriers or just visual guides toward an entry. They soften hardscapes such as walks, steps, and driveways. Groundcovers help to define space. A low groundcover can provide a transition between the lawn and taller plants used in beds. Attractive foliage, colorful flowers, and, at times attractive fruit can add color and texture to an otherwise "green" landscape. Groundcovers create various moods. Small leaved, smooth textured groundcovers used in broad curved plantings can convey a feeling of spaciousness. Whereas large leaved coarse textured groundcovers create a feeling of closeness.

Care and Maintanance
Site and Soil Preparation

As with any permanent landscape planting, time spent preparing the site pays off. Pay special attention to removing weeds, especially perennial weeds, from the bed prior to planting. Grass and weeds may be killed by using a systemic non-selective herbicide or by covering the area with a sheet of black plastic for 1-3 months.

If using herbicide follow all label directions for timing of application, mixing, and applying. If this is not done, the weeds will grow back, compete with the new plantings and result in poor and slower establishment of the groundcover. Once the weeds have been killed, they may be tilled into the soil. (Remove any seed heads before tilling.) Till the area to a depth of 6-8 inches adding organic matter to help improve soil tilth.

Apply one to two pounds of 5-10-5 or similar fertilizer per 100 sqaure feet. After the site is prepared, and if practical, leave the area unplanted for about 2-3 weeks. During this time, any perennial weeds not eliminated will regrow and can easily be removed. This helps to reduce any major invasion of weeds after the area has been planted.

Planting

Plant most groundcovers in the spring or fall. Summer planting requires more attention to watering. Fall planted groundcovers may require mulching to prevent frost heaving of the plants. Spacing of plants depends on the plant's habit, rate of growth, cost and how fast the area needs to be covered. In general, space faster growing groundcovers further apart than slow growing types. (See spacing chart for guidelines on number of plants required for certain square footage and spacing suggestions.) Plant groundcovers in a staggered or diamond pattern for best results. When planting on slopes, mulch the area after planting or plant through fiber netting to help hold the soil in place. Allow at least one to two growing seasons for the area to become completely established.

Tips to Consider When Adding Groundcovers to Your Landscape

Use groundcovers for problem areas and to unify divergent components of the landscape. They can be used as traffic barriers, visual guides and to define space Use low groundcovers for a transition between the lawn area and taller plants in the garden bed. Try groundcovers where lawn grass either won't grow or is too difficult to maintain such as in very small, confined landscapes.

Select groundcovers based upon their ability to add year-round beauty to the landscape. Herbaceous groundcovers die back to the ground in the winter, exposing bare soil. If this is not the look you want, choose evergreen groundcovers. Select groundcovers, according to your site's conditions: Sun or shade? Clay soil or sand? Moist or dry? Select groundcovers that will survive and thrive under your conditions; not require heroic measures to keep them alive!

Moss as a groundcover? Sure! While heavy, dense shade is often considered a curse, it is a blessing when it comes to moss. The color and texture of moss can add great interest. And, it's virtually maintenance free.

Consider the height of the groundcover. Will you choose a six-inch ajuga or a four-foot fern? Before planting, always prepare the soil as you would for any other permanent type of planting. Remember, groundcovers are capable of giving long lasting beauty and function, but their performance is only as good as the effort one puts into soil preparation.

Beware of groundcovers that state, "Easy, rapid coverage in either sun, shade, wet or dry." They may be horticultural nightmares due to their aggressive nature. If you need fast coverage, closer planting of better behaved groundcovers may be the better answer.

Groundcovers are not the "bottom feeders" of the landscape. They add interest, and bring unity to the garden making them the unsung heroes among the more horticulturally prominent members of the garden.