Your regular spray program for your roses should be in force. Spray with a fungicide every 10 days; hopefully you have started doing this before the black spot or yellow leaves have appeared. After roses have finished their first flush of blooming, apply a cupful of 10-10-10 around each plant... scratch into soil. To keep continuously blooming roses blooming, deadhead. Some of the newer roses don't seem to require as much deadheading, however. Spray with an insecticide if you notice holes in your leaves.

• Apply a complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 (1 lb per 100 square feet) alongside your dahlias and gladiolas.
• Edible pea pods are best picked when the pods have just begun to fill.
• Prune your flowering bushes as soon as possible after they have finished blooming so that you won't be pruning off next year's flowers.
• Daffodils can be moved now; when the foliage has turned yellow, but before it has withered away and you don't remember where you planted your bulbs.
• Place 1 T. of bulb fertilizer in the bottom of the hole before planting.
• Fertilize asparagus and let plants continue to grow so that you will have a good crop next year. Fertilize with 10-10-10 at a rate of 2 pounds per hundred square feet.
• Apply a second fertilization to the lawn from the middle to the end of June. Water in well. If you have followed the recommendations of the Extension, your lawn will be thick and weed free. Spot treat the few weeds that appear.
• One downside of applying compost or mulch to your garden is that it attracts earwigs and slugs. If you notice your leaves are being eaten, especially at night, spray plants with Sevin in the evening (so you don't harm the bees).
• An easy way to prune chrysanthemums is to simply cut them in half (once) in June. Then you don't have to remember to pinch them each week. Tall growing plants such as some of the asters can be better contained by also cutting them in half this month. If your sedums flop by August, also cut these in half at this time. The blooms will be more numerous and smaller, but you will have an erect, bushy plant. This same practice can be applied to Annabelle hydrangeas.
• Houseplants do better spending the summer outside. Place in a shaded area for 10 days until they have become accustomed to the stronger light. You don't want them to get sunburned!
• Check pines for the sawfly which can devastate a shrub in no time. A strong spray of water will remove this pest.
• While you can still and should continue to stake such plants that will flop; make notes for next year to put your stakes in early when the plant is still small.
• Tie your staked tomatoes. Tuck shoots of caged tomatoes so that the plant stays in the cage.
• Prune lightly type I clematis(ex. Montanas), after they have bloomed.

We have given two horticulture classes:

Two older adults:

1. Class 1 - We planted the cannas, a few annuals in the front flower bed. Also planted the marigolds that they started from seed.
2. Class 2 - We showed them how to start sedum in rooting blocks. Next classes: Tues. at 10:15, June 7 & 14 - No program yet.

Two Vocational Services:

1. A class on "happy soil." Showed them how water is absorbed into soil, and what is necessary in soil to make plants grow.
2. We planted flowers in large planter by the bus loading area. Next class: Fri. at 9:15, June 3 - No class planned yet

We were pleased that all of the Parc cannas where sold at the plant sale. And thanks again for donating some left over plants from the
plant sale. Special thanks to Janet Hart for the special lambs ear.

- Angie Zimmerman

Bonsai Club - Meetings are changed. I will contact anyone who contacts me. Call Lee Tolzdorf at 347-7380 for info.

Herb Guild - upcoming meetings:
June 14 7 pm - Caroline Schertz, 14 different basils
July 12 6:30 pm - picnic - place TBA
Meetings held at the Womens Club, 301 N. Madison, Peoria
Info? Call Kris Plunkett, VP, Peoria Herb Guild, 382-1067

Orchid Society Meetings- every first Sun. at 1:30 pm at the Lakeview Museum. Contact Jane Jones, 383-4022 or Elliot/Pam Fox, 689-0733.

Peoria Evening Garden Club - Call Kris Plunkett, Peoria Evening Garden Club, 382-1067 for details.

Peoria Garden Club - Meetings are every third Thurs. from Sept to May, at 12 noon at Lakeview Museum. (Membership is required after first visit...$20/yr.) They are hosting a Japanese themed Flower Show Thurs. June 2 from 11 am-4:30 pm at Redeemer Lutheran Church, 6801 N. Allen Rd. Free. More info call: Joan McSherry, 886-2140.

West Peoria Garden Club - Meetings are every third Mondat at 7 pm, West Peoria City Hall, 2506 W. Rohmann Ave. Contact Pat Sharp, 676-5751

Pekin Garden Club: The Pekin Garden Club will host Flower Bingo on Tuesday, June 7 at the Miller Center in Mineral Springs Park in Pekin. The Bingo cards have plant names on them instead of numbers and prizes include plants, garden gifts, gourd birdhouses, snacks and more. Doors open at 6:00 pm and the fun begins at 7:00 pm. Bingo cards are $6 for 1 or 2 cards for $10, etc. This is a non-smoking facility and you are welcome to bring your own snacks. For more info, please call Suzanne at 346-6619.

All gardeners know when it happens - a sudden interest in a particular plant, set of plants, kind of gardening or whatever. Interest can often deepen into obsession. For me right now it is variegation. What is it about a variegated plant that attracts the eye? It certainly brightens dark areas! There is also the feeling that one has an all-season plant that has something to offer all the time.

Variegation is defined as striped, spotted to otherwise marked with a color other than green, often used to describe leaves. What can you do with variegation? Conventional wisdom says use them in the shade - where it certainly lightens up the area. Variegation needs to walk a fine line - look attractive while at the same time not detracting from the flowers. There is an amazing array of variegated plants in the marketplace and I certainly cannot do justice to all of them. So I will be highlighting just a few plants.

Many sedges have handsome striped leaves, and can thrive in sun or part shade. One that is quite attractive is Carex oshimensis 'Evergold'. In shady areas, Lamiums are an asset. Lamium maculatum 'Beacon silver' has silver leaves with green margins and pink flowers in summer, 'White Nancy' has white flowers, L galeobdolon 'Hermann Pride' yellow archangel has silver- streaked leaves with yellow flowers. I use 'White Nancy' under pine trees beside hostas, which make a great combination. Of course there are countless hostas with variegation, which will not be discussed here.

Variegated Fragrant Solomon Seal (Polygonatum odoratum var thunbergii 'Variegatum') has white striped leaves. The pretty, white flowers complement the leaves very well. Caryopteris 'Worcester Gold' has purple-blue flowers that flower in late summer with gold leaves. I have this sited nestled between purple plum bushes and it looks stunning even without flowers. Phlox paniculata 'Nora Leigh' is an unusual phlox which has variegated leaves with lilac flowers. It is a very attractive plant from spring to first frost. These plants offer both variegation and pretty flowers.

For sunny locations, Yucca filamentosa 'Golden Sword' has stiff yellow-edged leaves, as well as Bright Edge' and 'Color Guard' and they do well in full sun and sandy soil or clay as long as it is well-drained. Among grasses, select a site in part shade for Hakone Grass (Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola'). Although this is a warmseason grass, this one does better in partial shade. This is a truly stunning plant which is on my "want" list. Try some of these plants in your garden and get "turned on" by variegation like I have.

- Sunita Shastry

I was recently asked what would be the ONE plant to have in your yard for the honeybee. My mind reeled thinking of all the possibilities - blooming trees in the spring to sedum and asters in the fall and all the others in between. One that I mentioned was Monarda (also known as Bee Balm or Bergamot) but didn't think to include all of its cousins in the mint family.

The following excerpts are from the article "Mints for Your Bee Garden" by Richard Dalby in the American Bee Journal, May 2005.

The Mint Family is largely composed of aromatic herbs and shrubs found around the world. Many are grown for their flavor or scent and for their essential oils. Typically the mints exhibit squarish stems, aromatic foliage, and bilabiate (two-lipped) flowers that are bilaterally symmetrical.

Let's begin with lavender (Lavandula spp.), a mounded, aromatic perennial native to the Mediterranean region. The purplish-blue flowers, borne in terminal spiked clusters, appear from July to September. Lavender does best in light, well-drained soil in full sun. Richer soils produce less fragrant lavender. Harvey B. Lovell states the (lavender) honey is extra-light amber in color with a"good body and flavor".

Our second Mint Family member is thyme (Thymus vulgaris), known also as common thyme (or) garden thyme. Thyme is an aromatic perennial herb native to southern Europe. It has long been grown in American gardens. The small lavender to whitish flowers, borne in axillary clusters, appear from May to September. Thyme does best in light, sandy, well-drained soil, but will grow in almost any soil. Some of the various available thymes are creepers and tend to form mats, which recommends them for ground covers in sunny areas, as well as rock gardens, between paving stones, and along borders. Frank C. Pellett states that (thyme) honey is a very light amber, of good body and of very good quality."

Our last member of the Mint Family is wild marjoram (Origanum vulgare), known sometimes as common marjoram. It is a pleasantly aromatic perennial herb that grows from 1 to 3 feet in height. Purplish-red flowers are borne from June to October in terminal clusters on the stems and branchlets. Pellett says "Honey from marjoram is reported to be of fine quality, equal to that of clover, but with a distinct flavor."

- Janet Hart

As the weather warms, it will be time to think about roses. When planting a new rose, site selection is important. There are several things to consider. Roses need a minimum of 6 hours of sun per day to grow well and to produce their flowers. Consider planting roses in a south facing exposure for maximum sunlight. An east facing exposure is also good as it will receive morning sun. Morning sun will hasten the drying of dew from the plants and be cooler and less stressing than afternoon sun.

Good air circulation is also important. So many of the disease problems common to roses are more likely to occur when the plants stay wet for extended periods of time. A site with good air circulation will keep plant surfaces drier and reduce the incidence of disease. Avoid planting roses too close to one another, to other plants or to buildings or other structures.

Roses must have soil that drains well or they will do poorly. You may need to amend the soil with organic matter or even consider raised beds, if the drainage in your yard is not sufficient. Roses will grow best if the soil is on the slightly acid side (pH 5.5-6.5).

Spring is the time to plant roses in northern Illinois. Planting in spring gives the plant the entire growing season to become established before facing the rigors of winter. Bare-root roses should be planted while they are still dormant. Container grown roses may be planted throughout the growing season, but early is best. Our northern winters can be hard even on established roses; newly planted roses should be given every possible chance to succeed. Avoid fall planting in northern Illinois.

When planting roses, soil preparation and size of planting hole are both important. Whenever possible, enrich the soil with organic matter. This will improve drainage and make the soil more fertile. It will be most beneficial if you can prepare a planting bed (rototilling in organic matter as you would for a perennial or vegetable garden) rather than just amending the planting hole itself. This encourages the root system of the plant to spread out into the prepared soil, and develop more fully. After the planting area has been amended with organic matter, you are ready to dig holes for the individual plants. Be sure to dig a hole that is both deep enough and wide enough to accommodate the root system. Don't dig a small hole and try to "squeeze" the roots in.

If you are planting a bare-root rose, you will have to build a soil mound to support the plant (bare-root plants come with no soil of their own). The mound supports the plant and allows you to spread the roots out in a natural pattern. Special care must be taken with bare-root roses. The roots should be soaked in water overnight, prior to planting, to insure that the roots are fully hydrated. The canes and roots may also need to be pruned. Try to maintain 3-5 canes per plant and prune them to 3-5 buds per cane. Prune the roots so that they are a little longer than the length of the canes.

As you place the plant in the planting hole, be aware of how deep you set the plant. In northern Illinois' harsh climate, roses that are grafted should have their graft union 1-2 inches below the soil line to prevent winter kill of that graft union. Roses that are growing on their own roots can be planted at the same level at which they were planted in the nursery. The soil line is often apparent on the crown of the plant.

Once the rose is planted, be sure to water it in thoroughly. Transplants often have limited root systems and need regular watering to insure that they become established in a timely fashion. As with any plant, the care given by the gardener greatly determines the health and vigor of the plant. The following basics on watering, mulching, fertilizing and winter protection will help keep roses in good health. Proper watering is essential to the health of any rose. Roses need soil that drains well, but they also demand an ample supply of water (about 1 inch per week; more in the heat of summer). When you water, do so deeply and infrequently. This will encourage the development of a strong, deep root system. Avoid frequent, shallow watering which will cause roots to be very close to the soil surface. Since roses are prone to some serious fungal diseases, it is wise to direct water to the soil and avoid wetting the foliage. Leaves that remain wet for long periods of time are more likely to become diseased. Soaker hoses work very well in the rose garden, delivering water directly to the root system and keeping foliage dry. Soaker hoses are efficient watering devices since the water goes directly into the soil and the loss to evaporation is minimized. The hoses can be placed under the mulch so they do not detract from the beauty of the garden.

Mulching in summer is very beneficial to roses. Mulch helps conserve moisture, reduce competition from weeds and keep soil temperatures cooler. Mulch should be applied in late spring after the soil has warmed a bit, but before the heat of summer sets in. Apply about 2-3 inches of mulch over the root systems, but do not pile it against the canes as this could promote rot. Well-aged organic mulches do well around roses, as they will release nutrients when they break down. Fresh bark and wood chips, however, will rob the soil of some nitrogen as they decay. You may need to add a small amount of nitrogen to compensate for this. Fertilizing is very important to roses; they are heavy feeders. If an organic mulch is used, it will supply some nutrients, but additional fertilizer will still be needed. When shopping for fertilizer, note the three numbers on the label. These numbers indicate the amount of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the fertilizer. Phosphorus is the nutrient which helps promote good flower production, so purchase a fertilizer with a higher proportion of phosphorus, the middle number (such as 5-10-5). It is possible to purchase specially formulated fertilizers that are sold as 'rose food'. You can also buy an all purpose fertilizer (like 10-10-10). The first application of fertilizer can be made in spring after the danger of frost is past. Further applications can be made about every six weeks. Fertilizing should be stopped after July to allow the plants to harden off for winter. Be sure to follow the label directions.

Since northern Illinois can experience fairly severe winters, protection must be considered. The type of winter protection wil vary, depending on the types of roses you are growing. Some roses, such as species roses, some of the shrub roses, and some of the old garden roses are quite hardy and require little or no protection. Many of the modern hybrids commonly grown today require some winter protection. One of the simplest methods of winter protection is mounding loose soil, compost or shredded leaves around the base of the plant. These materials should be mounded to a depth of 6-12 inches. It is important to use materials that will not compact easily. If the mound becomes compacted it may hold too much moisture around the base of the plant, especially if the rose is planted in a heavy soil that drains slowly. The roses do not need to be cut back drastically in fall. Cut back only enough to prevent the canes from whipping in the wind. Rose cones can also be used, but may require some maintenance as temperatures fluctuate throughout the season. Roses will have to be cut back more severely to fit under a rose cone. Cones should not be put in place until the plants are truly dormant and the soil freezes. Rose cones should be ventilated to prevent heat build up on days when the temperature rises. Remove the cones in spring before new growth begins. If new growth begins under the cone, it may b spindly. Keep cones nearby so they can be easily replaced if the spring weather takes a cold turn. Winter protection should never be put into place until roses have gone fully dormant. To encourage dormancy, stop deadheading rose around early September and do not make any late applications of fertilizer. Whether you cover your roses with soil or use rose cones, don't begin the process too soon. Wait until we have had a good, hard frost and the rose is truly dormant.

- Sharon Yiesla, Unit Educator, Horticulture, Lake County

Make your own mix of 4 parts water to 1 part sugar. Boil for 5 minutes, cool and put in clean feeders that have red to attact birds. Store extra in refrigerator. Change every 2-3 days. Don't add red dye.

At least a couple of times a week someone in the neighborhood tells me how great my front lawn looks. A lovely lawn has never been a long term aim of mine. But it's always nice to have a compliment. I think more in terms of flowers, with the lawn running second best as an accessory.

Several people have asked me lately where I think they should put a bush, ornamental tree, or plants they're fond of, and more and more I'm realizing that gardens are as much our personal taste as art is.

There is a real difference, I believe, between landscaping & gardening. For me landscaping is a more formal setting of nature around my house - a design to enhance the house and create an ambiance - a design to enhance a total formal picture of my life style.

Gardening is an avocation, a celebration of nature that combines, color, form, fragrance, texture and the joy of being part of creation. The gardener often designs and adjusts his style he also changes things from year to year, season to season to fulfill his visions.

No garden stays the same from year to year if the gardener's vision extends beyond the space around his knees.

We are all on a pilgrimage and our true happiness is in the journey not the destination. This is true about our lives and our gardens.

"A Gardener's Work is never at an end; it begins with the year, and continues to the next." John Evelyn (1620-1706)

- Terry Fina