December 3rd, 2009: Master Gardener Meeting at 6pm, Montgomery County Extension office

December 3rd, 2009: How to Make a Holiday Swag with Bow, then take it home (ADULT Workshop) at 6:30 – 8:30pm, Montgomery County Extension office

December 5^th, 2010: How to Make a Holiday Swag and Bow, then take it home (YOUTH Workshop) at 9:30-11:30am, Montgomery County Extension office

January 7^th, 2010: Master Gardener Meeting and POTLUCK with Program at 6pm, Montgomery County Extension office

February 4^th, 2010: Master Gardener Meeting at 6pm, Montgomery County Extension office

How Can You Become a Master Gardener?

To become a Master Gardener, you must register and fill out an application at the Montgomery County Extension office. The Montgomery County office will be responsible for ordering you a training manual in either a CD or book format. After the application is completed, the trainee begins the core training. This includes daytime classes taught once a week for 11 weeks, usually beginning in mid to late January. Attendance for all 11 classes is mandatory. Classes are taught by University of Illinois specialists and Extension educators. Class topics include botany, soils, vegetables, fruits, flowers, trees and shrubs, grasses, landscaping, insects, and diseases.

The training that it nearest to Montgomery County residents is the Sangamon/Menard (Springfield/Decatur) location and will be on Thursdays (with the exception of one Wednesday) from January 21^st - April 1, 2010. For more information about the Master Gardener training schedules, you can go to http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/mg/training/default.cfm. The Sangamon/Menard training will require a fee of $150, and this includes a training manual. To register for the Sangamon/Menard training, you will need visit the Montgomery County Extension office and fill out an application by January 4^th, 2010.

The University of Illinois Extension will offer Master Gardener training On-Line as an option for those who would like to take the Master Gardener course, but due to work schedules or travel concerns are unable to attend one of the face-to-face training programs. The 2010 class will run from January 14 through May 14, coinciding with spring semester on the U of I campus. The cost of the online training is $250, and this fee includes a training manual. If you are interested in the On-Line Master Gardener training, you will need to register and fill out an application at the Montgomery County Extension office by December 9^th, 2009.

Upon successful completion of the classroom training units and passing the final exam, you will become a Master Gardener Intern. The internship consists of fulfilling volunteer hours approximately equal to the number of hours of classroom training received (60 hours). Certified Master Gardeners are those who have completed their classroom training and internship. To be an active Master Gardener, you must remain current in annual educational updates (a minimum of 10 hours) and volunteer service hours (a minimum of 30 hours) required by the local program.

The Montgomery County Master Gardeners meet the first Thursday of every month at the Montgomery County Extension office at 6 pm. This group likes to have additional learning opportunities during their meetings, as well as go on tours. The Montgomery County Master Gardeners have several opportunities for volunteer hours such as the Montgomery County Farmers Institute, clean-up and planting, promotion and education, as well as fundraisers such as pork patty and plant sales.

If you are interested in becoming a Master Gardener or would like to have more information, you can contact Stephanie Porter, Natural Resource Educator, at the Montgomery County Extension office at (217) 532-3941.

HOLIDAY SWAG WORK SHOP

The Montgomery County Extension office is hosting two workshops for Adults and Youth to learn how to make an evergreen swag to decorate your home for the holidays. Instructions will also be given on how to make a bow. Greenery, ribbon, wire, and pine cones will be provided. If possible, bring your own pruners and wire cutters. You will be able to take the holiday swag home after the workshop!

The Adult workshop will be held on Thursday, December 3^rd, at 6:30-8:30 pm, and the Youth workshop (3^rd grade and up) will be held on Saturday, December 5^th, at 9:30-11:30 am. The workshop will be held at the Montgomery County Extension office, and a there is a fee of $10 to cover the cost of supplies. Please register by December 2, 2009 by going to the Montgomery County website at http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/montgomery/ or you may call the Montgomery County office at (217) 532-3941. For additional information, you can contact Stephanie Porter, Natural Resource Educator, or Peggy Hampton, Youth Educator at the Montgomery County Extension office.

Along with the usual holiday admonitions to shop early and mail early, it is a good idea to buy your Christmas tree early as well. Most fresh Christmas trees are harvested weeks before they appear locally. The earlier you buy your tree, the fresher it is likely to be. You can maintain the freshness by keeping it in water—something retailers cannot do.

Choosing the right tree involves more than finding the prettiest one on the lot. Before you go shopping for a tree, decide where you are going to display it. Do you have space for a stately white pine, or for a shorter, fuller tree such as a Scotch pine?

According to the U. S. Department of Agriculture, the Scotch pine and Fraser fir are the most popular Christmas trees, probably because they hold their needles longer than most others. Because spruces are notoriously poor needle-holders, few are cut early enough for the wholesale trade.

Most varieties of Scotch pine have bushy branches and long needles that grow in clusters of two. It is native to northern Illinois and is produced by many local growers. As with other pines, it has excellent needle retention.

Firs tend to like cooler growing conditions than Illinois, but the shape, smell and silvery color of the needles, as well as the density of branches and branch strength, makes them a popular choice. Among the imports to the Illinois market are the Douglas fir, Noble fir and Balsam fir. Douglas firs technically are not a true fir.

Once you have decided what kind of tree you want, start looking over the selection. Buy the tree in an open space with good lighting. Choosing your tree from a dark, crowded lot on the coldest night of the year is not a very good idea. Shopping during the day, when you can take your time, will probably help you make a better choice.

There is no sure way to determine freshness, although very dry trees are not too hard to recognize. A common mistake is to confuse frozen needles with those that are truly dry.

Some people enjoy cutting their own at one of many "choose-and-cut" tree farms around the state. In this event, there is no question of freshness.

You will probably want at least three of the sides to be symmetrical, unless the tree is to stand in a corner. You will need a strong leader—the upright branch at the top of the tree—if you plan to use a star or angel on top.

Stand the tree in water the entire time it is in the house, and cut an inch or two off the butt end just before you put it into its indoor stand. Never allow the water level to drop below the freshly cut butt.

- David Robson, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator

Did a celebration around a Christmas tree on a bitter cold Christmas Eve at Trenton, New Jersey, turn the tide for Colonial forces in 1776? According to legend, Hessian mercenaries were so reminded of home by a candlelit evergreen tree that they abandoned their guard posts to eat, drink and be merry. Washington attacked that night and defeated them.

The Christmas tree has gone through a long process of development, rich in many legends, says David Robson, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator, Springfield Center.

Some historians trace the lighted Christmas tree to Martin Luther. He attached lighted candles to a small evergreen tree, trying to simulate the reflections of the starlit heaven—the heaven that looked down over Bethlehem on the first Christmas Eve.

Until about 1700, the use of Christmas trees appears to have been confined to the Rhine River District. From 1700 on, when lights were accepted as part of the decorations, the Christmas tree was well on its way to becoming a tradition in Germany. Then the tradition crossed the Atlantic with the Hessian soldiers.

Some people trace the origin of the Christmas tree to an earlier period. Even before the Christian era, trees and boughs were used for ceremonials. Egyptians, in celebrating the winter solstice—the shortest day of the year—brought green date palms into their homes as a symbol of "life triumphant over death."

When the Romans observed the feast of Saturn, part of the ceremony was the raising of an evergreen bough. The early Scandinavians were said to have paid homage to the fir tree.

To the Druids, sprigs of evergreen holly in the house meant eternal life; to the Norsemen, they symbolized the revival of the sun god Balder. To those inclined toward superstition, branches of evergreens placed over the door kept out witches, ghosts, evil spirits and the like.

This use does not mean that our Christmas tree custom evolved solely from paganism, any more than did some of the present-day uses of symbols in various religious rituals.

The fact that balsam fir twigs resemble crosses more than any other evergreen twigs may have had much to do with the early popularity of balsam fir used as Christmas trees.

Trees and branches can be made purposeful as well as symbolic. The Christmas tree is a symbol of a living Christmas spirit and brings a pleasant aroma of the forest into our lives.

- David Robson, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator

As the old saying goes, "what goes up, must come down," and leaves are no exception. With the advent of the cooler autumn temperatures, many trees begin to display a magnificent display of color. However, even the prettiest colored leaves will eventually fall to the ground. Although some trees, such as the oaks, will wait until late winter for leaf drop to occur. Leaf disposal should not present a serious problem for the homeowner, reports Bob Frazee, University of Illinois Extension natural resources educator, because there are a variety of uses for them.

How many leaves might a typical homeowner have to rake this fall? Well, Frazee reports that an ordinary, mature tree may have as many as a quarter of a million leaves on its branches. So, if you live on a one-half acre lot and have 10 mature trees…well, try not to think about it!

Leaves make an excellent mulch beneath trees, shrubs and other landscape plantings. As compared to fresh green grass clippings, Frazee suggests that tree leaves that drop in the fall are relatively dry and can be used as mulch with little or no odor problems. Leaves collected in the fall with a lawn mower bagger will contain some grass clippings. Frazee reports that this mixture of leaves and grass can also be used as a mulch without odor problems.

Leaves are also an excellent source material for compost. The microorganisms found on leaves are sufficient to start the composting process. When placed in a compost pile in the presence of adequate moisture, leaves will decompose into an excellent organic soil amendment that can be used as a soil conditioner.

According to research studies, leaves from different tree species will decompose at different rates, but the product is the same. Leathery leaves such as oak leaves contain more lignin and other woody substances and therefore take longer to decompose than fine-textured leaves. Leaf decomposition can be accelerated by increasing the surface area by mowing the leaves while they are being collected or shredding them after collection.

Another tip from Frazee is that leaves collected in a lawn mower bag will contain some grass clippings. Since they contain more nitrogen than the leaves, they will help to increase the rate of decomposition. Additional nitrogen will also speed the rate of composting.

Dry leaves will require moisture for composting. In early autumn, leaves will have a moisture content of 30 to 40 percent. Late season leaves will have less than 20 percent moisture. Leaf composting proceeds best with 40 to 60 percent moisture. It is a good idea to use a garden hose to wet leaves that are to be composted. Since fresh grass clippings contain 60 to 70 percent moisture, they can be mixed with leaves to provide moisture. If the compost pile begins to smell, it is an indication that it is too wet.

Oxygen is needed for aerobic decomposition to occur. Frazee cautions that if the oxygen supply is too low, anaerobic decomposition will occur and the compost pile will begin to smell. This problem can be corrected by turning the pile to add more air.

As leaves decay, they produce heat. The heat of an active compost pile will peak at 140 to 150 degrees Fahrenheit. When the temperature of the compost pile begins to decrease, it is time to turn the pile. Ideally, the turning process should be repeated three to four times to get finished compost. Once the leaves turn into leaf compost, Frazee recommends that it be used as a soil conditioner to improve the tilth and fertility level of soils in the yard and garden.

- Bob Frazee, University of Illinois Extension educator, natural resources management

Fall is the best time to start your bird feeding program according to Bob Frazee, University of Illinois Extension natural resources educator. Birds, small mammals and other wildlife are actively seeking food sources to fatten up for migration or for winter temperatures if they are year-round residents. By having your feeders up early, there is a better opportunity for birds to find the feeder and become accustomed to using it before winter arrives.

Since enjoying the birds is a major objective, you will want to locate the feeder where it can be conveniently viewed—and used. Due to differences in body size, feet and bills, birds not only prefer different seeds but also different foraging areas. This does not mean that birds will never feed in a different area, but you will increase your chances by catering to their feeding preferences.

Birds such as juncos, sparrows, cardinals, blue jays and mourning doves prefer to forage on the ground for seeds. Frazee notes that you will often observe these birds hopping around the lower branches of shrubs and rustling through leaf litter in search of seeds and berries. A small brush pile, open lean-to or grassy patch provides cover for ground-feeding birds while they eat.

A covered tray feeder raised off the ground on a fence or pole is the most common feeder you see in people's yards. Tray feeders will accommodate most of the ground feeders plus chickadees, nuthatches and finches. While this type of feeder will attract the widest variety of birds, the seeds are not protected from the weather and can get wet and/or moldy. Frazee cautions that squirrels and large birds, such as grackles and blue jays may also invade a tray feeder.

Hanging feeders may include hopper, silo and tube feeders with perches. Hung from a branch, eaves, or a clothesline, these feeders sway freely in the wind, which does not bother birds such as finches, chickadees, woodpeckers and nuthatches. However, some birds, such as sparrows, get a little "sea-sick" and prefer more stability. Frazee encourages filling large hanging feeders with sunflower seeds to attract cardinals and blue jays. Small feeders should be geared more toward finches, chickadees, nuthatches and tufted titmice. Niger seed is very attractive to goldfinches and works well in small-hole tube feeders, which avoid waste.

Woodpeckers and nuthatches are primarily insect eaters. They prefer foods high in protein and fat such as suet and peanut butter that can be dispersed in clinging feeders. Made of hardware cloth, mesh bags, pine cones, coconuts or other "structures" lacking perches, clinging feeders are excellent for dispensing peanuts to smaller birds or suet to insect-eaters.

Lastly, just like persnickety kids, birds have different food preferences. Hands down, black-oil sunflower seeds are the most popular food among a large variety of birds. Juncos and sparrows go wild for white proso millet. Goldfinches cannot resist niger seed. Chickadees and titmice will delightfully indulge themselves with peanuts. In a nutshell, Frazee concludes that the key to successfully attracting wildlife to your backyard is to add variety.

- Bob Frazee, University of Illinois Extension, natural resources management educator

At this time of the year, many people who frequent farmer's markets, garden centers and even some supermarkets, will see a yellow-green grapefruit-sized fruit that is often called a hedge apple. According to Bob Frazee, University of Illinois Extension natural resources educator, hedge apples are produced by the Osage-orange tree (Maclura pomifera), which is commonly grown throughout Illinois. The Osage-orange is a member of the Mulberry Family and is commonly called a hedge tree.

As early-American settlers began moving west during the nineteenth century, many Midwest farmers found the Osage-orange tree to have many admirable qualities. According to Frazee, it is a tough and durable tree; transplants easily; tolerates poor soils, extreme heat and strong winds; and has no serious insect or disease problems. Consequently, it was planted widely as a living fence because, when its thorny branches were pruned into a hedge, it provided an impenetrable barrier to livestock.

The wood is extremely hard, heavy and durable, and it shrinks or swells little compared to the wood of other trees. Thus, the wood is typically used for fence posts, treenails, furniture and archery bows. According to University of Nebraska researchers, dried hedge is the highest in BTU's of dried wood from native trees when used as firewood. However, they caution that burning hedge does result in considerable sparking, so a protective screen or shield needs to be placed between the fireplace and the room.

However, Frazee reports it is the fruit of the Osage-orange that most individuals find intriguing. Although kids take enjoyment in throwing them, they are usually considered a nuisance in the home landscape.

Many people purchase hedge apples believing that hedge apples can repel or control insects, spiders and even mice in their homes, basements and garages. The use of hedge apples as a pest solution is often communicated as a folk tale complete with testimonials about apparent success. Unfortunately, there is an absence of scientific research and, consequently, no valid evidence to confirm the claim's effectiveness. According to Frazee, a few years ago, toxicologists from Iowa State University extracted compounds from hedge apples that were found to repel insects when concentrated. However, the scientists reported that natural concentrations of these compounds in the hedge apples were too low to be an effective repellent.

If you decide to pick hedge apples to check out their ability to control pests or to use the fruit as a fall decoration, Frazee cautions that it is important to wear gloves. The milky juice present in the stems and fruit can cause irritation to the skin.

- Bob Frazee, University of Illinois Extension, natural resources management educator