Some gardener's are looking forward to winter so they can rest and reflect upon this year's garden. Others will be sad to see another season go... but not just yet. There are plenty chores to do before the snow flies. Here is a list of some tidying up things to do before Old Man Winter blows in.

Mulching for winter- The goal for winter mulching is to keep plants dormant when winter temperatures rise above freezing (it's been 70 degrees in February) and protect plants from the fluctuating winter temps. If plants are kept too warm they may break buds and leave them unprotected to a hard freeze. Don't' apply winter mulch too early or you will smother your plants. When plants go dormant and temps are consistently below freezing, and the ground starts freezing now is the time to mulch. Use 4 to 6 inches of organic material such as leaves, pine needles, hay or shredded bark.

Mulching roses-again, the purpose of mulching roses is to keep them dormant but not too warm. As Jim Schuster, UIUC Extension Educator always says, the styrofoam cones can become "rose coffins". If you must use them, make sure they have a hole in the top to expel heat build-up during warmer winter temps, too much moisture and provide some air flow. A better way is to wait until the rose leaves drop and nights are in the teens, remove dead or diseased leaves and canes and for our northern winters, 'hill up' with 10 to 12 inches of soil. Wrap hardware cloth or chicken wire around hill and cover with leaves or evergreen boughs to help keep soil frozen. This is done after ground freezes.

Fertilizing-October is a good time to fertilize shade trees. Don't over-fertilize them. If trees were already fertilized wait a season or two before doing it again. Do not fertilize roses after August 15th.

Other fall chores are:

1.Clean and oil hand tools with linseed oil.

2 Remove dead or diseased plant material but do not add these to your compost pile unless the pile is actively "hot".

3.Keep trees and shrubs watered, especially if they are new, evergreens or if rain is scarce.

4.Collect leaves for mulch and compost bin.

5. Continue to mow the lawn to encourage good root growth.

6. Top-dress lawn with a good ½ inch layer of compost. If early fall, reseed bare spots.

7. Aerate compacted lawns with a rented aerator machine.

8. Cut back perennial flowers, weed area and top-dress with 2 inches of mulch.

9. Bring tender plants such as rosemary or lavender indoors gradually moving them from full sun to part shade over a period of two to three weeks. These plants won't do well if they go from full sun to indoor light. They need to acclimate to indoor light.

10. Dig and store tender summer bulbs such as gladiola, cannas and caladiums.

- Darlene Ray, LaSalle County Master Gardener

The dreary and sometimes wet weather did not stop garden enthusiasts from attending "A Walk Through Henry Gardens", sponsored by the University of Illinois Master Gardeners and the Henry Events Committee.

Many people could be heard oohing and aahing over these gardens and asking the owners about the plants.

Carol and Tate Schmitt's bright colored flowers and a rustic potting shed made this English cottage garden a feast for the eyes. Meticulously placed antiques in the midst of beautiful flowerbeds made Mark and Estela Nave's garden a journey into the past . When Wayne and Shelly Hastings moved to their Green Street home 7 years ago they brought with them a large collection of plants. Wayne, a woodworker has added many items to Shelly's collection of plants. Robert Summitt, our local photographer and landscaper extrodinare has transformed his backyard into a photographer's dream. Many a graduate in Marshall and Putnam counties have had their picture taken in this impressive garden. If a quiet pond with large koi and goldfish is more to your liking, just follow the path to Ron and Barb Mehrkens garden. A bench by the pond beckened many to just sit and watch the fish for awhile. Rita Simpkins, one of our Master Gardeners and her husband Lewis have a gorgeous woodland setting for shade gardening, Having to cut down a tree in their yard gave Lewis the opportunity to build an enormous birdhouse on the stump so they would not have to take it out. Pink, yellow and lavender were the colors Amy Joos, another of our Master Gardeners chose when she created the garden in front of the Extension office. Extension and Farm Bureau members can be found sitting on the bench enjoying the view. Amy is also working on a garden for the back of the building where a picnic area for the employees is being planned. Jeff Bergfeld of Bergfeld landscaping has created a lovely place for visitors to sit and rest in downtown Henry. Picnic tables also offers a place to sit and have lunch.

Did you miss the garden walk? Don't despair, another is being planned for next year. Watch your newsletter for updates.

It's that time of the year when soon we will trade in our spades and rakes for the snow-shovels. It's also a good time to winterize our gardening tools.

Hand tools-Clean your hand tools with a wire brush to remove dried on mud or rust. With a rag, rub linseed oil on all metal parts and wood handles. This will help to keep tools from further rusting and keep wood from drying out. Sharpen shovels and give them the oil treatment also.

Sprayers-thoroughly wash and rinse the tank and all the parts. Triple rinse if you used pesticides. Try to get all of the water out, especially the tubes and small parts. Store open and upside down preferably where they won't freeze. Nozzles and tubes can crack or split from freezing and thawing temps if water remains inside.

Gas-powered tools-empty gas tanks and follow manufacturer's instructions. Some mowers or tillers may need new spark plugs. Now is a good time to sharpen blades or take them in to a shop. Next spring you'll be good to go and not have to get in line. If still in stock, buy any parts or supplies you'll need such as string for your trimmers, etc.

Wheelbarrows-clean and use the wire brush if starting to rust. Also rub on linseed oil if made of metal. Grease the wheels and store in a shed or garage. If it must stay outside, turn upside down and cover with a tarp.

Garden hoses-drain all water from hoses. Water left in hoses will freeze and expand over winter causing hoses to split or burst the plastic. Coil it onto a hose reel or tie with straps. It's better to store in a garage or shed but if outside, cover with a tarp or inside a heavy-duty plastic bag.

Garden statuaries or decorative items should be stored in a shed or garage when possible. Clay pots and cement statues may crack or weather if left outside. There are products on the market that will preserve cement benches, statues etc. in spray or cans and follow directions.

I consider birdbaths a 'garden tool' since birds take care of the garden by eating bugs. Clean them often and see about purchasing a good heater made for keeping the drinking water from freezing. Get one that has a built-in thermostat that kicks in when temps reach 32º degrees.

Next spring you'll be glad you took care of your tools now so you can get growing, hoeing and digging right away.

- Darlene Ray, LaSalle County Master Gardener

Wasn't it just yesterday we all anxiously looked at all the seed catalogues we received in December and January? Planning what, where, and when. Some of us starting just a bit too soon, others just going out and buying our plants for our gardens. Now that we have tenderly cared for our plants through the long hot some times dry summer. Weeding and protecting them from pests, both big and small. The question we are asking is what to do with all of the produce now that we have had our fill and have given away all that friends and neighbors will take.

The fall is an excellent time to consider storing some of your favorite vegetable for use through the long winter months. Some of the home grown or locally grown can be stored for several weeks or months.

Vegetables can be grouped according to the best storage conditions: cold and very moist (32 to 40 degrees F and 90 to 95% relative humidity); cold and moist 32 to 40 degrees F and 80 to 90% relative humidity); warm an dry (50 to 55 degrees and 60 to 75% relative humidity); and cool an dry (32 to 50 degrees F and 60 to 70% relative humidity). In general, beets Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, endive, kale, Kohlrabi, leeks, parsnips, radishes, rutabagas, and turnips should be stored in a cold, very moist environment. Irish potatoes should be stored in a cold, moist environment.

One of the most popular vegetables, the tomato, can be stored for 3 to 4 months for eating during Thanksgiving and Christmas. This requires harvesting the fruit at the mature green state (35 to 45 days after pollination). Not all varieties store equally well: yellow tomatoes tend to store better than red-fruited tomatoes. When storing tomatoes (at any stage of ripeness), it is important to follow some key steps: 1) Any fruit that has been bruised should not be stored. 2) Place the tomatoes one layer deep in a newspaper-lined box with newspaper placed between each individual fruit; leave the fruit uncovered on the top. 3) Place the box in a dark, cool and humid place (35 to 45 degrees and 76% or more relative humidity). Inspect the fruit once a week and remove ripe fruit or any fruit showing signs of decay. Speed of ripening is controlled by temperature: the higher the temperature, the faster the ripening takes place.

Many vegetables that require cool to cold, moist environments can be successfully stored outdoors through the winter. A common method of outdoor storage is inground storage. Root vegetables such as carrots, turnips and parsnips can be left for part or all of the winter in the garden where they grew. When the ground begins to freeze, these vegetables can be covered with straw, hay or leaf mulch for protection, keeping the ground from freezing and making digging easier.

Beets, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, kale, leeks and onions can be stored through fall frosts under mulch. Brussels sprouts can withstand some light freezing and can be stored in the garden for several months.

Pumpkins should not be harvested before they reach maturity which can be estimated by the thumbnail test. A mature pumpkin will have a hard rind that resists puncture from the thumbnail. Green pumpkins will not ripen or develop full color in storage.

Some vegetables should not be stored with apples because apples release ethylene gas. Ethylene will make carrots bitter tasting and reduce the storage life of Irish potatoes and pumpkins.

Enjoy the fruits of your summer labor all winter long. For more information on storing, canning, or drying fruits and vegetables for winter

- Marshann Entwistle Bureau County Master Gardener

A few gardeners call the Extension and ask how to save flower seeds every year. What seed can we save? How do I know what kind of flowers I have? Where did you get that plant or seed? Read the label on the plant, read the seed catalog or ask the friend that gave you the seed.

What do you do if the flower is a hybrid? The primary disadvantage of hybrids is the seeds cannot be saved from year to year. Seeds saved from hybrid plants usually will not produce the same plant the following year because most varieties are not self sustaining. Offspring of hybrids usually show an unpredictable mixture of characteristics from the grandparent plants instead of being similar to the parent.

What seed can you save? You can save the open-pollinated seed also known as standard or heirloom. They are plant varieties that have stable traits from one generation to the next. Open pollinated plants are fairly similar to each other but not as uniform as hybrids. Heirlooms were originally chosen for only one or two specific characteristics, individual plants of older heirloom varieties may differ greatly in size, shape or other traits.

You need to look for the best seed when saving seed. Choose disease free plants with qualities you desire. Always harvest mature seed. Seeds are mature when flowers are faded and seedheads dry. Allow the seed to mature and dry a long as possible on the plant. You can complete the drying process by spreading the seeds on a screen in a single layer in a well ventilated dry location. If you have extremely small or light weight seed put the seed heads in a paper bag to catch the seed as it falls out. Seeds must be stored dry. Place them in glass jars or envelopes. Label all the containers with seed variety and date. Put in freezer for two days to kill pest then store in a cool dry place like a refrigerator. Seeds that mold, were not dry enough before it was stored so you need to throw them out.

Most seeds should be used with in three years, viability decreases over time.

What can you do if the birds and animals like to eat the flower seeds? Sunflower seeds are hard to save just for that reason. Before the seeds ripe the squirrels and birds try to eat them. Keep an eye on the flowers as they mature, you will have to put netting over the seed to save them from the birds and squirrels or grow a few extra plants for them to eat.

The advantage to seed saving is it's a great way to propagate many native plants and will save you money. There are numerous seed saver exchanges, clubs, and listings in garden magazines or on line. Give seed saving a try.

- Paul Barrett, LaSalle County Master Gardener Coordinator

Coleus has become one of our most popular plants. Once established it requires little maintenance. Also, it is one of the easiest plants to propagate. In the Fall, take cuttings, root them in water, then pot and by Christmas they will reward you with a lovely holiday plant. In the Spring, they may be set out in the garden.

- Lucille Ledgner Bureau County Master Gardener

Prairies have long been a vanishing part of our Illinois heritage. But increased interest in renovation and construction of both small and large plots of land sis spurring the return of natural prairie plants to Illinois landscapes.

The are many reasons for the gain in popularity of prairie plants in landscapes, not the least of which is variety. Instead of the traditional flowerbeds of begonias, geraniums, petunias, etc., how about trying shooting star, rattlesnake master, black-eyed susan, prairie rose, spiderwort, butterfly weed, or pale purple coneflower. Then ass some big blue stem, Indian grass, red osier dogwood, or indigo brush. These are just a few of the many prairie grasses and flowers and trees or shrubs that can add interest to your landscaping.

Now if you have the room and a real desire to start a large plot of prairie grass and flowers, as my husband and I have, it can be a substantial amount of work,. As we have slowly been learning, it takes about three years to reap the rewards of the hundreds of seed that were planted and see the big blue stem finally come into its own.

There are some special needs that have to be considered. The first two years you watch and cut at the appropriate time, and it is best if you can find someone to rake up the cuttings so the seeds can get most of the sun and rain. You do not burn until the third year. The burning gets rid of the old growth. This year the Indian grass was beautiful until we had to cut it.

During the late spring and early summer our field was full of wildlife. Right now the milkweed is drawing the butterflies while the bergamont draws bumblebees. The grass was tall enough to give great cover to the meadowlark and will most likely draw a few animals such as fox and raccoon.

Now if you don't have the land or desire for this large amount of work, you can create your prairie on a smaller scale such as on a corner of your lot or an area around your home.

Planting of prairie plants should be done in the spring as they are warm weather plants and do not begin their growth until warm weather arrives Fall is not a good time to place prairie seedlings in the ground. Many will not survive the winter as heaving can occur, exposing the crown, which kills the plant.

The prairie grasses and flowers are well suited to our climate and need little water, can stand the heat of our summers and need little fertilizing, if any. Best of all, the grasses will look great year round.

Flower colors range from white, pink, blue, yellow and lavender. Red and orange are not nearly as common, but can be found.

The flower of some prairie plants are extremely fragrant, like the pasture rose. Seeds of prairie clover and northern dropseed are aromatic, as are the leaves of several of the goldenrods and rosinweed. Bee balm, a mint has especially aromatic leaves.

The most impressive display of fall colors occurs in the grasses, including big and little bluestem, Indian grass and cord grass. Shrubs such as black chokecherry and hazelnut have outstanding fall color.

I hope this gives you a little insight into prairie plants and perhaps some inspiration to begin your very own prairie landscape next spring.

If you are interested in reading more about this topic, contact your local Extension off or Soil and Water District. There are a number of good publications available.

- Marshann Entwistle, Bureau County Master Gardener

Did you ever see a sea of snowdrops in a woodland setting in March? Let's talk about spring bulb planting. Flowering bulbs are a wonderful addition to any flower garden. They start to bloom even when the snow is still on the ground, and are a welcome scene to let you know spring is on the way. Spring bulbs are planted in the fall. They need to develop a root system in the fall so they can bloom in the spring. They need 12 or more weeks of cold temperatures to meet their cooling requirements. If you plan to force bulbs for indoor blooms, they have to be potted by mid-October. Chill them to 38 to 45 degrees for 12 weeks with regular watering. If you don't chill them for 12 week they will not bloom.

It is important to select good quality bulbs for planting. Select bulbs that are firm and do not have soft or rotting spots or mold. They are sold at garden stores, local nurseries, discount businesses and mail order. The problem with mail order is you don't get to see the bulbs until they arrive. Order from reliable companies and ask your friends who they have had good orders from.

When picking the location consider the light requirements of the different bulbs, full sun, partial shade, or full shade. Think about planting early spring bulbs under deciduous trees or shrubs, by the time they leaf out the bulbs have bloomed.

One of the most important things to do is preparing the soil for bulb planting. Bulbs like good drainage. Some bulbs like Alliums will rot in wet soils. If you have high clay content you will need to amend the soil with compost or other organic material down to 12 inches. Spring bulbs need phosphorus to encourage root development. Phosphorus moves very little once applied to the soil. Some of the bulbs are planted 6 to 8 inches deep, the phosphorus needs to be worked into the soil below where the bulbs will be planted so it can be utilized by the bulb roots. Apply a mixture of 10-10-10 soluble fertilizer, 5 tablespoons plus 2 cups of bone meal per ten square foot area. As shoots break through the ground reapply the soluble fertilizer. Do not fertilize after they have started to bloom.

The common rule for planting spring bulbs is two to three times as deep as the bulb us tall. Most bulbs, like daffodils, and tulips, will be planted 6 to 8 inches deep. Daffodils, tulips and hyacinths should be planted with the nose up and the root plate down. Remember bulbs that are planted 6 to 8 inches deep need an inch of rain or water per week.

One problem with bulbs is a visual one. When the foliage starts to die back, it becomes unsightly. Do not remove it until it dies back naturally. Keep in mind that the green leaves need to manufacture food (photosynthesis) that is stored in the bulb for next year's flower.

There are hundreds of tulips and narcissi to choose from and don't forget the galanthus "snowdrops:, hyacinths and crocus. These are just a few of the best known spring bulbs, there are many more wonderful spring bulbs to plant

- Paul Barrett, LaSalle County Master Gardener

You can bury a lot of troubles, digging in the dirt

Plant smiles; grow giggles; harvest love

Gazing out my kitchen window, I stare at my garden as I often do, relaxing for a moment. Looking out the window and seeing the new blooms in my garden is so relaxing. Standing back farther like this makes me see the garden the way the neighbors and those driving by see my little haven. I am noticing though that all the color is in just a clump here and there. The daylilies are full of color right now and very plush. Oh they look very good from here better than up close. I have noticed the centers are starting to thin. If I divide them this fall they will once again be become beautiful from the garden and my window.

Daylilies are like happiness. Happiness adds and multiplies as you divide it with friends. Daylilies are easy to divide, will add color to other parts of my garden where I am noticing a new splash or two is needed. The other hidden value of spitting my day lilies are I have something to trade for other plants from my fellow gardening friends. I will definitely multiply my garden by dividing it with my friends.

Since my daylilies are still blooming, I will wait for them to finish. I can split them anytime now until mid September. If I wait much later than that the roots don't have enough time to set before winter. Don't worry however if you wait too long. They can also be divided early spring when they start coming up. It just will take them a little longer to spread. The nice thing about daylilies is they will take all kinds of abuse and still grow.

I want to treat my daylilies right. First I get out my garden forks, two are actually best. Grab some water and off to the flowerbed I go. Trying to move the mulch with the fork, I realize I should have brought the rake also, but I don't want to go back to the shed. I'm lazy that is why I like my daylilies, I only have to divide them every 4 or 5 years. Plus the fact that I can almost totally neglect them and my garden looks great .

Ok back to raking away the mulch, I do need room to get my fork in the ground 6 to 8 inches from the base of the plant. I am ready to dig. The hardest part of the whole division is getting the plant out of the ground. The fork works best to go around the plant and loosen the dirt from the root ball. I like to stay away from the base of the plant those 6-8 inches to keep from damaging the roots. I see, I am going to have to go around this plant a couple of times these roots are set. Finally, I get this big root ball out of the ground. Using the two forks back to back, I go down the center of the plant and pry apart, this is such a large clump I'll repeat the split on each of the already split root balls. Ok, two new clumps for me and 2 to trade or give to my friends.

Digging a shallow hole, I have to remember not to plant to deep. The crown of the plants must remain above the dirt. At least daylilies grow in almost any soil. So make a hole 6-9 inches wider than the root ball but less than the height of the root ball. Putting the daylilies into the hole and backfilling the dirt is a fairly easy task. I water and because I am lazy as you already know I will mulch for weed protection and also to keep the roots from drying out. I also will water again now. I cut the foliage back to 12 inches, clean up my tools and head for the house.

I put on the teapot and look out my window. Shelly is coming over to pick up her daylily plant and we will compare garden notes. Next year I realize my daylilies may be a little sparse but look out world in two years I'll have great color in more areas. Maybe I'll have to look at expanding my flowerbeds (Just don't tell my Husband please)

- Barbara Dahlbach Marshall-Putnam Master Gardener

Master Gardener Lunch Bag: Norma McCullough

Rain Gauges: Louis Murphy and Carol Parrish

Want to learn about flowers, vegetables and much more? Call your local extension office and sign up to be take the Master Gardener Classes

Every fall leaves change their colors. Did you ever wonder why? While you were playing in the hot sun during summer vacation, all of the trees in your neighborhood were working hard to keep you cool. To feed the green leaves that make shade, trees use sunlight to convert water and carbon dioxide into sugar. This is called photosynthesis.

Now it's autumn and you are back in school. Those hardworking trees need to take a break from all that photosynthesizing. When leaves change color, from green to yellow, bright orange to red, you will know that trees are beginning their long winter's rest.

Where do leaf colors come from?

Leaf color comes from pigments. Pigments are natural substances produced by leaf cell. The three pigments that color leaves are:

Chlorophyll (green) - the most important of the 3. Without chlorophyll in leaves, trees wouldn't be able to use sunlight to produce food.

Carotenoid (yellow, orange and brown)

Anthocyanins (red)

Chlorophyll and carotenoid are in leaf cells all the time during the growing season. But the chlorophyll covers the carotenoid-that's why summer leaves are green not yellow or orange. Most anthocyanins are produced only in autumn, and only under certain conditions. Not all trees can make anthocyanins.

How do leaves change color?

As the earth makes its 365-day journey around the sun, some parts of the planet will get fewer hours of sunlight at certain times of the year. In those regions, the days become shorter and the nights grow longer. The temperature slowly drops, Autumn come and then winter. Trees respond to the decreasing amount of sunlight by producing less and less chlorophyll. Eventually, a tree will stop producing chlorophyll. When that happens, the carotenoid already in the leaves and the annthocyanins created, then autumn leaves can finally show their colors.

Why do leaves fall off the tree?

A tree's roots, branches, and twigs can last through freezing temperatures, but most leaves are not so tough On a broadleaf tree- for instance a maple or a birch - the thin leaves, made of cells filled with water sap, will freeze in winter. Any plant tissue unable to live through the winter must be sealed off and shed to make the tree live through winter. As sunlight decreases in autumn, the veins that carry sap into and out of a leaf slowly close. A layer of cells, called the separation layers, forms at the base of the leaf stem. When this layer is complete, the leaf is separated from the tissue that connected it to the branch, and it falls off. Oak leaves are the exception. The separation layer never fully detaches the dead oak leaves, and they stay on the tree through winter.

It's hard to believe that the beautiful rainbow of colors that we see every autumn is such a complicated process!!!

Fun facts

Pines, spruces, cedars and firs don't lose their leaves or needles in the winter.

The needles are covered with a heavy wax coating and the fluids inside the cells contain substances that resist freezing. Evergreen leaves can live for several years before they fall and are replaced by new growth.

What do autumn leaves and ripening bananas have in common? The green color in unripe bananas comes from chlorophyll, the same pigment that gives green leaves their color. As bananas ripen, the chlorophyll breaks down and disappears, revealing the yellow color which has been there all along. The colors (oranges and yellows) in autumn leaves are also revealed as their chlorophyll breaks down. Other changes also occur in bananas as they ripen: the starches change to sugar and the flesh softens as the pectin breaks down.

- Sherry Hockings, Bureau County Program Director, Educational Programs

Peonies are not a plant to divide every few years as they do better by being undisturbed. However there are times when these plants need to be moved or we just want a start of an old plant. This can be done and is best done in September yet they will tolerate spring transplanting also.

Dig up the plant or if you are just getting a start just spade out part of the root system. 3-5 eyes buds are needed on the transplanted roots to form a well-established plant. Planning the placement of these buds are very important because peonies will remain planted for years to come. Full sun is preferred, as well as good drainage in the soil.

Work the ground up in a 3-foot diameter hole, large enough to hold roots and aging organic material. Place the roots 2 inches deep-- any deeper than 2 inches and the peonies will not bloom as well. So 2 inches deep-planted roots with 3-5 eye buds. Back fill the dirt and water well. To protect the first winter from freezing and thawing the spreading of straw over the area helps. This straw should be removed in the spring.

The first year the blooms should be removed from the peony bush, as this will promote growth of the plant itself. In 3-4 years the plant will flourish. Be patient remember this plant will be blooming for the next 50 years.

- Barbara Dahlbach Marshall-Putnam Master Gardener