Gardening can be one of the most rewarding activities from fruits and vegetables, to flowers and trees. Gardening can take a toll on our body, whether you are young or old. The more we age, gardening has more of an impact on our bodies.

When we talk about Body Smart Gardening we will be talking about what tools we use and how we use them. We will be dealing with muscle aches and strains, eye and skin health.

You will need to stretch and warm up for about 15 minutes every time you get started. Gardening can increase flexibility, strengthen joints, lower your blood pressure, increase your strength and stamina, increase bone density, tone muscles and help you lose weight. Listen to your body and stop when it tells you so. Cool down, have a cool drink of water.

NOTE: before starting any serious physical exercise, consult with your doctor.

To prevent injury, bend at your knees, use a wheel barrow to move heavy items, work garden utensils close to your body, avoid reaching; keep the center of gravity close to your body. If you have a problem bending or stooping, raised beds and containers may be for you. Limit your garden activities, take breaks and drink plenty of water.

While the sun is essential for plant growth it can wreak havoc on the gardener. The most intense sun is between 10 am to 4 pm. To minimize sun burning, the best time to work in the garden is early morning or late afternoon, wear protective clothing and a wide brim hat. Apply sun screen with a SPF of 15 or higher, reapply often, especially if you sweat. Don ' t forget a good pair of sun glasses to protect your eyes. A good pair of gloves to protect your hands is a must. The latex dipped are good for all around gardening, leather is best when working with thorny plants, neoprene gloves are recommended for use with pesticides. Ergonomic tools are designed with your body in mind. The tools are intended to maximize productivity by reducing fatigue and discomfort. These tools promote good posture, grip, and handling when used properly. There maybe less stress on your back when using an ergonomic rake because of the curved shape of the rake. It employs the arms and shoulders more effectively. Ergonomic tools like the hand pruners are shaped to fit your hands. Basically every type of tool has been redesigned ergonomically. Don ' t forget to clean your tool before winter. Happy Gardening!

- Paul Barrett LaSalle County Master Gardener Coordinator

Bagworms are a nuisance and can defoliate and kill a wide variety of both coniferous and deciduous trees. They seem to prefer arborvitae and red cedar but attack and destroy pine, spruce, willow,cypress, juniper, black locust, sycamore,apple, maple, elm, poplar, oak and birch. Bagworms tend to be a problem on trees that are isolated or in urban areas. They can be found all through the Eastern United States from New England to Nebraska and south to Texas. How do you know if you have them, by observing your trees, and searching for their spindle-shape bag. The common bagworm, Thryridopteryx ephemeraeformis is a caterpillar that lives inside these spindle- shaped bags, which they construct to protect themselves against birds and other insects.Unfortunately, these bags can go unnoticed because they look like so much of the tree and this cammoflauge allows them to do considerable damage.

Early in June, the insects hatch from eggs which wintered in the old bags. They have a one year life cycle. The young worms emerge and start to spin bags as they eat and grow. The caterpillars will crawl part way out of the bag to feed. Each female can produce over 1,000 bagworms. The bagworms mature in early September , the worms then attach firmly to the branches and move into the adult stage. The wingless female never leaves the bag and is fertilized by the winged male. She produces the eggs, then literally mummifies herself around them. After that they overwinter and the cycle goes on and on. How can we control these pests? Hand control is the first line of defense. You can pick the bags off the tree and squash them underfoot or drop them in a bucket of soapy water. Be careful if the bags are too high up on the tree. You can spray them with an insecticide designed to control bagworms. Read labels carefully and follow the directions. As the bags approach their full size (2 inches) pesticides become less effective. Keep a watchful eye out for these damaging pests and hopefully you will never see them but if you do , act quickly to destroy them.

- Laurie Bonnucci, Bureau County Master Gardener

If you have a yard with lots of pretty plants,trees and shrubs your chances of being visited by Japanese Beetles this year are pretty high. Their catalog of plants they love number close to three hundred.

The adult beetle is 1/3 to 1/2 inch long with a metallic green color and coppery brown wing covers,long legs and large claws with tufts of white hairs along the sides of the abdomen.

The larvae have a distinctive "C" shape, grow to about 1 inch long, with brown heads; they are found in the sod. Larvae overwinter deep in the soil and move toward the surface in spring to feed on roots. They pupate in May and June, the adults emerge in late June to July, July being the favorite month.

They feed on plants until late summer, then burrow under grass and lay eggs. The eggs hatch into larvae that feed until cold weather arrives, then burrow farther into the soil to avoid freezing.

The adults feed during the day, especially in warm weather and full sun. They can completely skeletonize leaves and may completely defoliate plants. They are especially destructive to grapes, peaches and other members of the rose family.

The control: In early morning, handpick beetles and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. They can fly so being real quick is the trick. Traps attract more beetles and if that is the route you take, do not place them near the plants, it is an invite to "come and dine."

For grubs, applying milky spore disease(Bacillus popilliae) to the soil and may take several years for it to be effective..

For chemical treatment: contact your county extension office.

- Bea Despain, Bureau County Master Gardener

Did you know that originally carrots were purple but the color was bred out of them to become orange? Experts claim this is true and the new carrot "Purple Haze", winner of the 2006 All-America Selection Vegetable Award, might be proof of that.

The definition of "Heirlooms", as defined by the experts, is a bit sketchy with some simple and liberal rules. An heirloom must be from open-pollinated seeds and old.

Open-pollinated means seeds from a parent that will produce plants with the same characteristics as the parent, unlike hybrids. The seeds from an open-pollinated plant can be saved from season to season.

How old is 'old'? Again this is not a so 'cut and dried' rule. Most authorities consider old as introduced prior to 1951. Why? Because this was when modern breeders introduced the first hybrids developed from inbred lines. (Hybrids are the offspring of two plants of different species or varieties.)

Other experts consider cultivars that are 100 to 150 years old as true heirlooms. Many heirlooms are near extinction and seed-savers are doing their best to keep propagating them to ward off becoming just a memory your grandmother talks about.

When growing an heirloom variety, take care not to allow it to become cross-pollinated by another cultivar. Heirlooms to stay that way may need to be isolated from other plants.

Heirlooms can be quirky. The seeds may germinate slower, or come up erratically. Some varieties have been known to do wacky things at first and then grow up just fine. The offspring are not always 100% exact as some oddities do occur, but it's uncommon. You can be pretty sure that the offspring will be the same from year to year. But that's the joy of growing heirlooms and biodiversity. Much like parenthood ... huh?

Source: www.ngb.org and UIUC Extension websites.

- Darlene Ray, LaSalle County Master Gardener.

Anything natural? Not exactly. Do you grab stuff at the store because it reads 'organic' etc? Not so fast. Here are some facts that may help you make a more informed decision when buying or using products labeled 'organic'.

The USDA NATIONAL ORGANIC PROGRAM (NOP) monitors and certifies organic farms and labeling of agriculture and meats, poultry and other food stuffs. There are definite rules and inspections that farmers and producers must follow and pass before they can sell anything labeled 'organic'.

To be considered organic, produce and other food must be grown without the use of pesticides, chemicals, synthetic fertilizers, sewage sludge, genetically modified organisms or ionizing radiation. Wow!

Organic meat, poultry, eggs and dairy products come from animals that are given no antibiotics or growth hormones. In order for a product to be labeled 'organic', a Government approved certifier inspects the farm and the farmers must follow certain rules to meet the USDA organic standards.

There are three USDA categories for labeling organic products. If the label is to read:

1. 100% organic- it means that it's made from 100% organic ingredients.

2. Just plain "Organic" means it is made of at least 95% organic ingredients.

3. "Made with organic ingredients" means it can be made with only 70% organic ingredients with certain restrictions on the other 30%, including no GMO's (genetically modified organisms).

The same goes for organic farming. No pesticides, chemicals or synthetic fertilizers can be used. Little known is what a farmer must do to his land before he can produce and sell products labeled organic. They must follow a three-year conversion process. The first two years consists of building up the soil's fertility, organically, of course. Produce grown the first year cannot be stated as 'organic'. The second year it can be labeled "In Conversion", and finally the third year it can be stated as "Fully Organic".

Organic seeds are 'organic' if harvested from plants that have been grown without the use of pesticides, synthetic fertilizers or pesticides, nor are they treated with fungicides, or synthetic chemicals (after harvesting) prior to sale.

Organic farmers don't receive federal subsidies like conventional farmers do. Therefore the price reflects the true cost of growing. There you have the basics, so the next time you read the labels on 'organic' products at the store, you'll know why your cash register receipt is a wee bit more "healthy" and makes more 'cents'?

Source from website www.organic.org/home/faq and the USDA National Organic Program.

- Darlene Ray, LaSalle County Master Gardener.

Celosia 'Fresh Look Gold'. They are embellished with deep, bright golden plumes that are 4 to 4 ½ inches tall and 2-3 inches wide. They remain colorful from spring to September. Plants are 12 inches tall by 12 inches wide.

Petunia 'Opera Supreme Pink Morn'. These bedding plants have iridescent pink blooms and the feature of trailing petunias. The blooms also have a silvery shimmer. The blooms are creamy white in the center with a yellow throat. The three colors are what make this a 'morn' type. Deadheading is not necessary to keep its excellent performance. Plants spread to 3 feet, and are 4 to 6 inches high.

Vinca 'Pacifica Burgandy Halo'- This is the first vinca with a burgundy halo surrounding a large white center. It is heat and drought tolerant, full sun and easy to grow. It flowers continuously and suitable for any garden or patio planter. It requires less watering than other annuals and doesn't

require pinching or a lot of maintenance. Flowers are 2 inches, and plant is 12 inches tall and 10 to 12 inches wide.

Pepper F1 'Holy Mole'-It is the first hybrid pasilla-type pepper of high yields. Virus resistances are bred into this variety. The flavor is nutty and tangy. Peppers are 7 to 9 inches long and can be harvested in about 85 days. Plants are 3 feet tall and 20 inches wide.

2006 Winners are:

Dianthus F1 'Supra Purple', Nicotiana F1 'Perfume Deep Purple', ornamental Pepper 'Black Pearl', Salvia farinacea 'Evolution', Viola F1 'Skippy XL Red-Gold', Zinnia F1 'Zowie Yellow Flame', Carrot F1 'Purple Haze', Cilantro 'Delfino', Pepper F1 'Carmen'and Pepper F1 'Mariachi'.

Look for them at the nursery or seed catalogs.

Source from www.all-americaselections.org

- Darlene Ray, LaSalle County Master Gardener

Ergonomics is the study of the efficiency of persons and their tools in the workplace. Tools are made to adapt to people and their individual needs. Hence, ergonomic tools. So ergonomic gardening tools, or what I will refer to them as E-gats, can be enhanced to make gardening less work.

Let's face it; 'painless gardening' is an oxymoron, especially as we age. Back, neck, knee and muscle problems don't have to end your days in the dirt.

Let's examine some ideas that 'the experts' suggest to help our ordinary garden tools evolve into 'E-gats'.

1. Add padding made of rubber, foam or plastic to tool handles to make them softer, larger and more slip resistant. (You may use glow in the dark or neon colored tape to find them at night where you left them during the day.) Consider buying inexpensive bicycle handle grips or use electric tape or baseball tape around the handles.

2. Longer handles on shorter tools saves bending and gives more leverage. Do this by cutting a desired length of PVC pipe of various diameters to fit over your handles and secure with tape if needed.

3. Keep your extensions and tools lightweight whenever possible.

4. For a few bucks you can buy 'T' or 'D' shaped handles to attach to straight shaft tools for a better grip and to keep wrists in a neutral position.

5. Converting short handled tools by adding extensions (such as lengths of the PVC piping or wood extensions sold for paint rollers) will allow you to do some chores without as much bending or kneeling.

6. Look for rakes and shovels that have 'bent' or contoured handles. They can add comfort and leverage for digging and raking.

7. Look for trowels that have an added feature of an extended padded arm rest on the handle. Make sure the design doesn't cause awkward or stiff movements for you that may add discomfort instead.

8. Pruning shears are sold for smaller hands that minimize strain on wrists or fingers. This goes for other tools as well.

So before you 'throw in the trowel' on gardening, peruse the store shelves for ideas on how you can make your garden tools more ergonomic, comfortable and efficient, or try them on at the store before you buy, like a comfortable pair of gardening boots.

Source: Harvard Medical School at www.health.harvard.edu and plain old gardening 'been there done that'.

- Darlene Ray, LaSalle County Master Gardener

Many of us can remember the song "Poison Ivy" but few find the itching and rash to be as amusing as the song.

If you camp, hike, garden, or just enjoy the great outdoors its something that you should know a little about. Sensitivity may occur after only one exposure, but some will only develop sensitivity after several encounters with the plants, or sometimes it may take years.

How to identify Poison Ivy

" Grows around lakes and streams in the Midwest and the East

" Woody, ropelike vine, a trailing shrub on the ground, or a free-standing shrub

" Three leaflets (groups of leaves all on the same small stem coming off the larger main stem)

" Leaves are green in the summer and red in the fall

" Yellow or green flowers and white berries

How to get rid of the plants. Even dead plants can cause a reaction, because urushiol can remain active for several years after the plant dies, so be careful how you handle. Poison ivy is most dangerous in the spring and summer, when there is plenty of sap, the urushiol content is high, and the plants are easily bruised.

If poison ivy invades your yard, David Yost, a horticulturist recommends "two herbicides most commonly used for poison ivy--Roundup and Ortho Poison Ivy Killer-however they will kill other plants as well. Spraying Roundup (active ingredient glyphosate) on the foliage of young plants will kill the poison ivy, but if the poison ivy vine is growing up your prize rhododendron or azalea, for example, the Roundup will kill them too, he says.

Ortho Poison Ivy Killer (active ingredient triclopyr), if used sparingly, will kill poison ivy but not trees it grows around, says Joseph Neal, Ph.D., associate professor of weed science, Cornell University. Pull the poison ivy vines away from the desirable plants and wipe the ivy foliage with the herbicide, or use a shield on the sprayer to direct the chemical. Remember to always read and follow all directions on the container. You can try to remove it manually but it is difficult, and many times an uphill battle. Neal recommends wearing plastic gloves over cotton gloves when pulling the plants.

A chemical in the sap of poison ivy, urushiol (pronounced oo-roo-shee-ohl), is what cause people to develop a rash and blisters. Because urushiol is inside the plant, brushing against an intact plant will not cause a reaction. But undamaged plants are rare. "Poison ivy is a very fragile plant," says William L. Epstein, M.D., professor of dermatology, University of California, San Francisco. Stems or leaves broken by the wind or animals, and even the tiny holes made by chewing insects, can release urushiol.

Avoiding direct contact with the plants reduces the risk but doesn't guarantee against a reaction. Urushiol can stick to pets, garden tools, balls, or anything it comes in contact with. If the urushiol isn't washed off those objects or animals, just touching them--for example, picking up a ball or petting a dog--could cause a reaction in a susceptible person. Animals are not sensitive to urushiol.

Urushiol that's rubbed off the plants onto other things can remain potent for years, depending on the environment. I would suggest washing anything that you might believe to have come in contact with it - yes even your dog.

Take action quick!

Because urushiol can penetrate the skin within minutes, there's no time to waste if you've been exposed. "The earlier you cleanse the skin, the greater the chance that you can remove the urushiol before it gets attached to the skin," says Hon-Sum Ko, M.D., an allergist and immunologist with FDA's Center for Drug Evaluation and Research.

If you've been exposed to poison ivy, if possible, stay outdoors until you complete the first two steps: says William L. Epstein, M.D., Professor of Dermatology, University of California.

1. First, cleanse exposed skin with generous amounts of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. (Don't return to the woods or yard the same day. Alcohol removes your skin's protection along with the urushiol and any new contact will cause the urushiol to penetrate twice as fast.)

2 Wash skin with water. (Water temperature does not matter; if you're outside, it's likely only cold water will be available.)

3 Take a regular shower with soap and warm water. Do not use soap before this point because "soap will tend to pick up some of the urushiol from the surface of the skin and move it around,"

4 Clothes, shoes, tools, and anything else that may have been in contact with the urushiol should be wiped off with alcohol and water. Be sure to wear gloves or otherwise cover your hands while doing this and then discard the hand covering.

If you do still get a rash there are many over the counter remedies that work quite well. Remember, because the oozing blisters don't contain urushiol, they are not contagious, nor can the fluid cause further spread on the affected person's body. Be advised against scratching the blisters because fingernails may carry germs that could cause an infection. Because different parts of the body absorb urushiol at different rates, it may appear to be spreading, but that is not the case.

Source FDA Consumer Magazine

- Vicky Stacey, LaSalle County Master Gardener

Emerald Ash Borer & Other Invasive Species Phil Nixon Entomology Specialist

Tuesday, Feb.13th at 1:00 and Thursday, Feb.15th at 7:00

Spring Lawn Care David Robson Horticulture Educator

Tuesday, Feb.27th at 1:00 and Thursday, Mar.1st at 7:00

Aggressive Thugs in the Flower Garden Martha Smith Extension Educator

Tuesday Mar.13th at 1:00 and Thursday Mar.15th at 7:00

Diseases of Herbaccous Perennials Monica David Horticulture Specialist

Tuesday, Apr. 17th at 1:00 and Thursday Apr.19th at 7:00

Herbs Jenifer Fishburn Extension Educator

Tuesday, May 1st at 1:00 and Thursday May 3rd at 7:00

Using Tropical Plants to Add WOW to Your Garden Greg Stack Horticulture Educator

Tuesday, May 15th at 1:00 and Thursday May 17th at 7:00.

Landscape Maintenance Sandy Mason Extension Educator

Tuesday July17th at 1:00 and Thursday July 19th at 7:00

Rain Gardens, A Wise Way to Use Runoff Duane Friend Horticulture Educator

Tuesday July 31st at 1:00 and Thursday August 2nd at 7:00

Controlling Garden Weeds Sandy Mason Extension Educator

Tuesday Aug. 14th at 1:00 and Thursday Aug. 16th at 7:00

Fall Vegetable Insects Jim Schuster Horticulture Educator

Tuesday Sept.11th at 1:00 and Thursday, Sept.13th, at 7:00

Household Insect Pests Phil Nixon Entomology Specialist

Tuesday, Sept.25th at 1:00 and Thursday, Sept. 27th at 7:00

Growing Back Yard Grapes Elizabeh Wahle Extension Educator

Tuesday, Oct. 16th at 1:00 and Thursday Oct.18th at 7:00

Call your local Extension office for the times they are offering the telenets and to register.

Did you ever wonder as you crunched your carrots or ate your Grandma's zucchini bread, where did this vegetable come from? The origin of our vegetables is very interesting and not something we think much about and there are not many vegetables native to North America. Here are a few common vegetables, their country of origin, and when and how to plant:

Carrots

Origin/History

Carrots originated in the Mediterranean. They were used as food during the 13th century in Europe. The early colonists of Jamestown, Virginia brought them to America and Native Americas learned how to grow carrots.

When/How to plant

Plant 2-3 weeks before the average date of the last 32 degree F freeze in the spring. Plant the seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep with no more than 3 seeds for every inch. Space rows 12-18 inches apart. It may take 2 weeks for carrot seeds to come up.

Zucchini

Origin:

Zucchini are part of the gourd family. They are native to Central America and Mexico. Zucchini are grown throughout the United States during the warm, frost free season.

When/How to Plant

Most zucchini grow about the size of a small bush, so plant zucchini anytime after the danger of frost has passed. Sow 2 or 3 zucchini seeds 24 to 36 inches apart in rows or plant 4 or 5 in hills 48 inches apart. When the plants are 2 to 3 inches tall, thin to 1 healthy plant in the row about 2 to 21/2 feet apart and no more than 2 to 3 plants in each hill.

Cucumber:

Origin/History

Cucumbers originated in India between the northern part of the Bay of Bengal and the Himalayan Mountains. They were grown in China around the second century, B.C. Emperor Tiberius of Rome ate cucumbers every day. Columbus had the cucumber planted in Haiti and other islands in 1494. French explorers found Indians growing cucumbers in the area that is now Montreal around 1535. Hernando De Soto, a Spanish Explorer, found cucumbers growing in what is now Florida around 1540. So cucumbers really got around!

When/How to plant

Plant cucumber seeds when all danger from frost has passed and when the soil has warmed up. Cucumbers can be planted in mid-summer to late summer for a harvest in the fall. Plant seeds ½ to 1 inch deep and thin the seedlings to one cucumber every 12 inches in a row. If you plant cucumbers in hills, thin the plants to 3 plants per hill nd space the hills 36 inches apart.

For more kids gardening information, go to the website: http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/firstgarden

- Sherry Hockings, Bureau County Program Director, Educational Programs

Let's face it, pruning grapevines can make some gardeners 'whine'. Well at least cringe a little. Actually it's not as hard as it seems after you learn the basic systems. Let's try to simplify it.

The most common pruning methods for home garden grapevines is the Kniffin four-cane or six-cane systems. The four-cane method leaves two canes on each side of the trunk, trained onto horizontal trellis wires. The six-cane being three on each side. The choice is yours.

Grapevines produce grapes on the previous year's canes or 'wood'. Two-year old woods or older will not produce fruit again. Those old canes should be pruned off.

Here's a little knowledge about how grapevines grow. Grapevines can have 200 to 300 buds capable of producing fruit. If vines are left that way, they could produce excessive fruit but they will not ripen because vines would not be able to sustain that large of a crop and produce healthy growth. Less is more! Pruning maximizes yields of higher quality fruit and better growth for the next year.

Canes or 'fruiting wood' are the branches that produce the fruit. A vine also has some very short canes that are called 'renewal spurs'. The buds on the renewal spurs provide shoots for next year's grapes.

Prune in late winter or very early spring. If done in fall or early winter the canes will bleed heavily, although this shouldn't seriously damage the vines.

The degree of pruning is determined by what is known as 'vine vigor'. Vine vigor is determined by the amount of the previous season's growth. The pruning is referred to as 'balanced pruning'.

Step one to do a balanced pruning is to decide the number of fruiting canes, four or six you want then choose the ones you want to keep. Tie bright colored ribbons on those. Leave equal numbers of renewal spurs and prune them back to one or two buds. Remove all remaining one-year old canes.

Next, and here's the fun part, weigh all of the pruned canes you removed. The weight determines the number of buds to retain on the canes you left on the vine. Okay, this is where some get confused.

Why does it matter how much they weigh? The weight of the canes determines the number of buds to keep on the vine. The formula is '30 plus 10'. Huh? It works. For the first pound of canes removed leave 30 buds. For each additional pound add 10 more buds. Include both the buds on the fruiting canes and the renewal spurs in your calculations. The maximum number of retained buds should not exceed 60.

Now that wasn't so hard was it? And when someone asks where you heard about this tell 'em, you guessed it, "I heard it from the grapevine".

- Darlene Ray, Master Gardener, LaSalle County Extension

Instead of guessing when it's time to water or use some fancy tool to check the moisture level of the soil, use a device that's always hand:y your fingers. Stick them into the soil until they are completely covered, and feel for some moisture. If they come up dry, it's time to turn on the sprinkler or get out the watering can.

- Lucille Ledgner, Bureau County Master Gardener

Annual Spring Garden Seminar

Celebrations 150 Banquet Hall in Utica, Illinois

April 11th 8:30 - 3:30

Colorful Shrubs and Small Trees for the 4 Seasons Jim Schuster U of I Horticulture Educator

Deciduous Tree Diseases Jim Schuster U of I Horticulture Educator

Soil & Rain Garden John Church, U of I Natural Resources Educator

Complete Container Gardens Nancy Kuhajada Will County Master Gardener Coordinator$25.00 registration fee includes continental breakfast and lunch, handouts and much more

Registration Deadline is Friday, April 6th

Call the LaSalle County office for more information or to register at 815-433-0707.