The main goal of spring lawn care is to help cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass or fescues develop a good root system to survive summer.

Mowing- Get mowers tuned-up now before the rush. Keep blades sharp to cut the grass and not rip the grass as dull blades do. Stock up on mower and trimmer supplies now before store inventories disappear, sometimes by July. Mow grass as soon as it's 3 to 4 inches tall. Cut to about 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches high. Don't scalp it but allowing grass to get too tall will stress the plant and encourage diseases. Don't cut off more than you leave. Avoid cutting wet grass which spreads disease.

Fertilizing- Don't buy everything stores put out for a 'lush green carpet'. Established lawns in good soil may not need fertilizers or chemicals. Take a soil test to determine if or what it needs. Compost is good for lawns too but won't work in spreaders. Fling by hand to distribute good compost across your lawn, a half inch deep will do. Earthworms will distribute the nutrients through their castings; a win-win situation.

Experts say avoid early spring fertilizing but if you must, apply a low rate. Adding nitrogen fertilizers 'green-up' the lawn but stimulates shoot development at the expense of root growth. The purpose of fertilizing it to promote a deep, dense, strong root system to survive hot summers. A low rate fertilizer greens up lawns but won't over-stimulate shoot growth. Apply fertilizers to ¼ the rate of a full application listed on the package. Apply a full application in May if you intend to water the turf all summer. If not, use a slow-release fertilizer that requires less moisture and won't 'burn' the grass.

Weed Control-Apply crabgrass pre-emergence chemicals in early spring (April 1st) before crabgrass geminates when soil temperatures are 55 degrees or warmer for 7 to 10 consecutive days. Apply a second application in May to control late-germinating crabgrass and warm-season annual grass weeds. Avoid crabgrass-fertilizer combinations. Plain crabgrass products are sufficient. Follow directions carefully.

Seeding- Sow as soon as possible. Grasses like bluegrass need two months of growing to mature. Late April is pushing it and success isn't guaranteed. Seeds need continual moisture to geminate so don't allow seeds and soil to dry out.

Dethatching and Aeration-Lawns need dethatching if thatch layer is 1 inch or more. Use a dethatcher, power rake or vertical mower you can rent. Aerating loosens, increases air content in soil and promotes root growth. Dethatching and aerating is done on September 1 and again April 1 or just April 1 is okay too. Aerate AFTER dethatching if both are being done. Don't remove more than ¼ inch of thatch. Do not use golf, football cleats or sandals with nails through soles, these compact soil into surrounding areas of the 'punched' holes. A core aerator will pull 1- to 2-inch plugs from soil every 3 to 4 inches of lawn. Remember, a nice lawn doesn't have to be a living room carpet.

- Darlene Ray, LaSalle County Master Gardener

Most would think master gardeners go into hibernation but LaSalle County MG's have been pretty busy all winter. They are planning and readying for 2006. Here are a few events they will be 'digging' into this season.

· A new program already underway called "The Buddy System". About 13 MG's have begun as mentors for the new LaSalle County MG trainees. The buddy system will give each trainee a "MG buddy" to help ease them into their new duties as master gardeners after graduation.

Upcoming events include:

· Career Day at IVCC on March 10th for junior high students. MG's will do hand-on projects to familiarize students with what MG's do.

· Spring Garden Seminar April 12 at Celebrations 150 in Utica.

· Plant A Row (PAR) planting and harvesting extra produce for area food pantries.

· Ideas are being gathered to develop programs to stimulate projects and additional MG participation in those projects.

· Ideas are also being discussed to build an 'idea garden' for children or a rose garden somewhere in Ottawa.

· A booth every month will be manned by MG's at the Farmer's Market in Ottawa.

· A booth at the 2006 Burgoo Festival in Utica to promote the MG program and PAR.

· ... and of course the ongoing answering phone calls about gardening matters from the public and playing in the dirt in city gardens come May.

Spring is on its way to us! It may not seem like it yet, but in a very few short weeks your plants will come to life again. Now is the time to begin looking at your beds and do what you can to prepare for the upcoming growing season.

Cut back on ornamental grass foliage to about 2-3 inches; old foliage left on the plants can delay the crown's warming and subsequent growth by as much as three weeks. Divide the grasses before growth starts. Any grasses that have died out in the center should be divided.

If you didn't cut back your perennials in the fall, do so before the plants begin new growth. Cut the plants down to within 2-3 inches of the crown. Be careful to not cut too close as the new bud is near the surface or just below the soil line. If division is necessary, wait until just after new growth has begun. Some fleshy rooted perennials such as poppy, peony and iris are best divided in the fall. The division process starts by digging around the plant and then lifting the entire clump out of the ground. Then, by using a spade or sharp knife, start to cut the clump up so that each clump is the size of a quart or gallon sized perennial. Keep it shaded and moist until planted, then water well.

It's time to till your vegetable beds, however, never till the soil when wet. Try the soil squeeze test first. Take a handful of soil and squeeze, if soil forms a ball, let it dry for 2-3 days. If soil crumbles easily through your hand, it is ready to till. Clean up last year's debris in the vegetable garden to reduce the potential for disease.

Plant onion sets in late March. Plant potatoes as soon as soil can be worked. Buy certified disease free seed potatoes. Cut into sections. Each section should have 1 or 2 "eyes" (buds). Plant sections 1 foot apart and 4 inches deep. Sow lettuce, peas and radishes. Many spring vegetables are generally planted as soon as the ground thaws. The first vegetables are the hearty cool weather plants, which include some of the most nutritious - beets, onions, sweet peas, garlic, lettuce, radishes, broccoli and the entire cabbage family.

- Cathy Trowbridge Bureau County Master Gardener

Keeping a tool clean and sharp will increase its usefulness and lengthen its life. Learn the techniques of sharpening each tool, and practice them frequently. Professional gardeners often carry sharpening stones or files while working and sharpen after every hour or so of use. Clean your tools after each use and oil the blades. Have any maintenance done now, when demand is lowest and you can afford to let the repairer take his or her time.

Make sure all the tools are put into their proper place. Some gardeners paint handles with a bright color to make their tools easy to spot when left on the ground, in containers or on equipment. If each tool has its own spot in the storage area, it is simple to determine if tools are missing before closing up for the day.

- Cathy Trowbridge Bureau County Master Gardener

The attraction is universal. People are fascinated by the sight of water and by the sound of running water. A water garden can add interest and appeal to a landscape. Water gardens can include fountains, waterfalls, small ponds, rockworks, and lighting. Although you can put in a full scale small pond, you don't need to do that to enjoy water garden plants. Any container that holds water, such as a half barrel with a plastic liner or a plastic tub is all you need to start a water garden.

Locate your pond or container where there is plenty of light, at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight is recommended.

Next is the water itself. Take note of the type of water used to fill your container. City water supplies are commonly treated with chlorine. It is a good idea to let the tub sit for 24-48 hours before adding plants to allow the chlorine to evaporate. Many city water supplies are now using chloramine, a more stable form of chlorine. If this is the case, you might want to purchase a product to remove the chlorine. These are available from garden centers and pond supply dealers. Don't use water from a water softener and don't add chemicals to the water.

A water garden is a balanced ecosystem of water, plants, and fish. Still all water gardens require some maintenance. Larger more elaborate ponds require considerably more work than a container water garden. You must clean out debris and muck from the bottom of the pond, check on pumps, hoses, filters and electrical wiring and winterize in the fall. On the other hand, water gardens don't require pulling weeds or watering of plants. One item that is problematic in water gardens is algae growth. Algae problems in water gardens are generally caused by the action of the sun and excess nutrients in the water. If ponds are established properly and balanced with the correct ratio of plants, fish and scavengers, algae problems are not difficult to control. When first establishing a water garden, green water conditions will exist for about 2-3 weeks but will clear as the water equalizes between plant nutrient uptake and the introduction of nutrients from fertilizers and/or fish. The general cause of algae in ponds is excess nutrients from either the overstocking or overfeeding of fish, overfertilization of plants, or the lack of nutrient uptake by plants caused by planting too few plants in the pond. A general rule for stocking fishponds is to use 4-6 goldfish and one water lily for every square yard of water surface. Feed fish a specified amount of food per day. Most fish can survive on naturally occurring foods within a balanced system. To reduce nutrients, reduce the feeding of the fish, the number of fish stocked in the pond or the fertilization of the plants. Other methods to reduce algae problems are flushing the pond and adding new water, adding additional aquatic plants to allow as much as 50 percent of the water surface to be covered, or adding some type of mechanical filter system in larger ponds.

Next is the fun part. After choosing the size and location of your water garden, you need to consider your plant choices. You can choose either hardy or tropical plants. Tropicals will need to be taken in, as they will not overwinter outdoors. You must also consider the three plant categories, emergent, also called marginals, submerged, also called oxygenators, and floaters, also called surface plants. Emergents are found on the edge of a pond rooted in the muddy bottom with a portion of their stem above water. They include cattails, iris, pickerelweed, and water lilies. Submerged plants remain beneath the water surface. These plants help combat algae while at the same time providing cover for fish and producing oxygen. By utilizing nitrogen produced from decaying plant material and fish waste they deprive algae of nutrients. Roots of these plants are not used for nutrient uptake, but only for anchorage. Submerged plants should be planted with about one bunch per two square feet of water surface area. Caging these plants is sometimes suggested if the pond contains fish, which tend to forage on submerged plant foliage. Examples are wild celery, fanwort, and anacharis. Floaters are not rooted in the soil, but are allowed to float freely above or below the water surface. Floaters enhance the display of water lilies and lotus as well as adding a finishing touch to the water garden. They are the "ground covers" of the water garden world. They may be restricted by a framework to prevent them from moving around or allowed to float freely with the breeze. Some floaters are very prolific and may need to be kept in check by removing excess plants on occasion. Duckweed, water hyacinth, and water lettuce are examples of floater water plants.

You may want to include fish in your water garden. Some fish will grow too large for small water gardens, koi can grow to three feet, goldfish to one and a half feet. For a small garden you might choose guppies which will help control mosquitoes or minnows. Most hardy fish will overwinter if the pond depth is two feet or more.

Now just sit back and enjoy, and if you have a large enough pond, get your toes wet.

- Marylou Sanders Bureau County Master Gardener

Pruning shrubs this time of year takes a little thought. Pruning should be done carefully. If your shrub blooms in the spring, DO NOT prune now. These plants formed their buds last summer. If they are pruned now, spring flowers will be greatly reduced. Wait until they are completely finished blooming.

Shrubs that bloom in mid to late summer CAN BE pruned now, since their buds will not form until spring time. However, don't just give them a hair cut. Too often, gardeners prune by lopping off the top few inches of the shrub. Take time and do it right and prune selectively.

There are two main cuts to make. Thinning cuts are made to remove a branch at the point where it emerges from the ground. Cutting out older branches to the ground will not only stimulate new growth, it will start to lower the height of the shrub. Doing this type of pruning on a yearly basis will help keep shrubs from becoming overly tall, while maintaining a natural shape. And, this type of pruning is perfect for multi-stemmed shrubs like old-fashioned lilac and red twig dogwood. The other type of cut is known as heading back cuts. With this cut, only a portion of a branch is removed back to a side branch or bud. Making a number of heading back cuts at different heights helps to open the shrub to sunlight and air circulation, which can reduce disease problems and enhance future flowering. As you look to prune shrubs, remember that good pruning is often a combination of both thinning cuts and heading back cuts.

Be sure to use clean, sharp tools to prune shrubs. Your cuts should be made near the bud, since this is the area from which new growth will emerge. In general, cut back one-fourth to one-third their length. Always cut at a slant, about one-quarter above the subtending bud. Transplant shrubs while still dormant.

Some shrubs like Buddleia, Butterfly Bush, Cornus, Red and Yellow Dogwoods, Forsythia, Hydrangea, Privets, Rosa, Climbing Rose, Spirea, and Lilac may be cut entirely to the ground to rejuvenate them.

- Marshann Entwhistle Bureau County Master Gardener

If you love hummingbirds, plant a garden specifically for them. Flower shape, not color, is what matters most when planning a hummingbird garden. Tubular flowers, whether they're tiny mint flowers or 8-inch datura blossoms, are what hummingbirds seek. Their long, skinny beaks are exactly right for reaching the nectaries at the base of these flowers. Red gets their attention, but they like deep purples and blues, too. They will go to just about any flower and if it proves to be a good nectar source, they'll return to it over and over.

- Lucille Legner Bureau County Master Gardener

As we await the first crocus and snowdrops, it is a good time for a review of our gardens. The new growing season in central Illinois is just a few weeks away. As we begin clearing the remaining debris from our planting beds and watch for the various perennials to begin peeking through the soil, it is also a good time to think about how we want to reshape our established garden areas.

While the sun beds are the first to show active growth, in this article we want to focus attention on the shade gardens and the first signs of that favorite hosta as it reaches for the sun.

The hosta has become a shade garden favorite because of its ease of care and diverse foliage sizes and colors. Planted as specimen or grouped together with other shade loving plants, the hosta provides an attractive low maintenance area in the garden. Some tips on planting and maintaining a hosta garden are similar to caring for many perennials, however, the hosta has a few unique features that we will review.

As with any perennials, soil preparation is the key to achieving maximum performance from your plants. While hosta can tolerate poor soil and minimum fertilization, the optimum soil is slightly acidic with a ph of 6.0 to 6.5. Bed preparation should include tilling the soil to a depth of 8 or 9 inches, removing surface tree roots and incorporating at least 3 inches of organic matter, then fertilizing with a 10-10-10 fertilizer following manufacturer's recommendations. Some growers suggest adding some pea gravel to the top 4 or 5 inches of soil to add mass and deter voles. Established beds should be checked for excess tree roots. Generally every three years is a good rule of thumb for digging hostas and amending the soil. Top dressing in early spring with a slow release fertilizer or water soluble fertilizers periodically through the growing season is recommended for hosta as they are heavy feeders. A program of two or three applications during the growing season, spaced from April to August is sufficient to maintain vigorous growth. Fertilizing should cease at least one month before the first anticipated frost (average first frost date in central Illinois is October 15). It should be noted that if you fertilize, you must also provide adequate water if Mother Nature doesn't. When hostas grow under trees, the root 's most important factor is the type of tree itself. Oak and Hickory are good choices, Silver Maple is not. The most competitive area for moisture is a tree's drip line.

A light covering of mulch helps retain moisture and control soil temperature. Mulch should be kept about 3 or 4 inches from the crown of the plant to discourage disease and slugs. Additionally there are many commercial products for discouraging and killing slugs. Some of the newer iron phosphate slug baits are showing promise while being non-toxic to pets.

Adequate moisture is extremely important for vigorous growth especially in the first few years after planting. A good rule of thumb is 1 to 1 1/2 inches of moisture per week, keeping in mind that nearby trees and plants can rob the hosta of needed moisture especially during the hot summer months. Inadequate water, especially after flowering, prevents sugar build-up in the rhizome, resulting in minimal size increase the following year. It is best to water early in the day as plant foliage should be dry before nightfall to discourage fungal diseases and slugs. As with fertilizer, it is recommended that watering be reduced in October. It is more advisable to let hosta go dormant rather than continually produce leaves as we near frost.

Hosta growers need to be aware of foliar nematodes, fungal infections (crown & root rot) and viruses.

Nematodes are roundworms that feed on tissue, causing yellow discoloration and developing into brown streaks between veins. Anthrocnose is a fungal disease and appears like rust colored spots on light centered hostas. Crown rot is also a fungus which causes the base of the petioles to turn mushy and the plant to collapse. Another type of crown or root rot is evident when the plant grows only half the normal size and the crown is partly dried up and falls apart easily. Most fungal diseases are treatable with a fungicide, however a plant infected with nematodes should be discarded. Check Focus on Plant Problems at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/focus for more information.

Sanitizing garden tools between usage from one plant to the next has become very important. A 10% bleach/water solution is recommended for cleaning garden tools to prevent the spread of fungal infections and viruses between plants. Quarantining new plants whether acquired from a nursery or your neighbor will prevent the spread of infection.

There are several opinions on the practice of clearing away the foliage in the fall of the year. If there have been problems with fungal disease which can overwinter on foliage or with voles & slugs, clearing away foliage has some benefits. However, the dead foliage does provide some winter protection and nutrients for the soil.

If you plan to clear the foliage before winter, wait until the plant has gone dormant and the removal will be much easier and reduce the risk of pulling smaller hostas out of the ground.

- Jean Davis & Rita Simpkins Marshall-Putnam Master Gardeners

Spring is dawning and those tempting seed catalogs you've drooled over or store seed racks that beckon you means it's time to make your selections. Before mailing those orders or buying enough seeds to plant the entire north 40, make a plan. Keep these tips in mind while making your selections.

Dream on but give thought to how many and what kinds of plants you really need. It'll be a real blessing later on. How many can you easily care for and not toil in the soil all season? Do you have space for all the plants or are they akin to your soil? Go ahead, choose a few new varieties but be realistic. Most gardeners want at least one of everything but be practical. Sometimes less is more!

With plan in hand make your selections. If you're ordering by mail:

¨ Remember, many catalogs photograph only their finest specimens. Colors may be brighter, plants bigger or descriptions aren't what you'll get. Avoid offers that seem 'too good to be true'.

¨ Some catalogs give skimpy growing info. Call supplier with questions and ask if they offer money-back guarantees? How 'fresh' are the seeds? Packets state "packed for 2006" but may not mean fresh and could be years old. Buy from reputable companies.

¨ Place orders early, keep catalogs for future reference and record your order.

Buying "off the rack"?

¨ Compare prices from store to store. Most stores sell seeds from the same suppliers but a few may offer discounts for the same packet.

¨ Look for "pelletized" seeds. Tiny seeds like petunia are coated with an organic substance that makes them bigger and easier to see while sowing.

¨ Buying bulk may be cheaper. Share it with a fellow gardener. Have enough for a second sowing? Or, buy smaller packets, use them up each season.

Seed packet lingo, what do they really mean?

¨ "Drought tolerant" may mean after it's established. New seedlings still may need normal watering.

¨ "Heavy feeder" could mean needs weekly fertilizing. Want to do that?

¨ "Invasive or vigorous grower" usually means it may take over your yard and trap you in your house. (Morning Glory or mint?)

¨ "Pest free" - if bugs don't even like it, you may not either.

¨ "Slow grower" could mean your toddler will be off to college before it matures.

¨ "Tender perennial" may mean a light frost will kill it or you'll end up tucking it into bed with you all winter.

¨ "Prefers this or that" might mean it will make you its slave or die if you don't make its demands, like full sun, good drainage, etc. Sow and ye shall reap!!!

Raymond Cloyd, U of I Extension Specialist Ornamental Entomology

- Darlene Ray, LaSalle County Master Gardener

Hey kids, have you started your garden yet? Here is a great gift idea for next fall and winter, but now is the time to start planning the gifts. This idea is easy and cheap, and lots of fun too!! Have you ever had to buy seed packets? They are expensive and sometimes don't look quite like the picture on the envelope. Here is an idea to save money and impress your family and friends!

First, take a good look at your garden. You are going to be harvesting your own seeds and making your OWN flower seed packets in August and September. It is best to start with flowers, and the ones that are the most reliable to grow and the easiest to harvest are: cleome, morning glory, cornflower, marigold, sunflower, cosmos, impatiens, and zinnia.

Watch your flower garden grow all summer, and keep an eye on the most beautiful and healthy plants. In August, the seed heads, or tops of flowers, should be mature and ready to harvest. Pull or clip the seed heads from the plant, holding a bowl or paper bag underneath. It is very important to mark which flower variety you have, because it is easy to get confused once the seed heads are opened. Indoors, open the seed head over newspaper, and throw away the chaff (seed coverings). Let the seed dry on the newspaper in a cool, well-ventilated space for 2-3 weeks.

Meanwhile, decorate your envelopes with drawings and photographs that you take yourself of the mature flowers, noting the flower's name and year grown. Pour some seeds in each envelope, and store the envelopes in a plastic container with a lid. And watch your family and friend's astonishment when you give them a gift that you grew and made all by yourself!!

Kids & parents check out our new websites:

www.extension.uiuc.edu/bureau/

www.extension.uiuc.edu/lasalle/

www.extension.uiuc.edu/marshallputnam/

There are many topics to choose from: families, horticulture, food & nutrition, agriculture and many more.

In the Just For Kids section check out one of these interactive titles:

The Adventures of Herman the Worm

Dr. Arbor Talks Trees

The Great Plant Escape

Let's Talk About Insects

My First Garden

Exploring the Secret Life of Trees

Trees Are Terrific

A Walk in the Woods

All-Star River Explorers

Great Corn Adventure

Healthy Hopping

Animals Past & Present

- Sherry Hockings, Bureau County Program Director, Educational Programs

It's time to get out of the gym and into the garden. Getting out in the garden is a great way to exercise while growing the healthy foods you like. Gardening is moderate and sometimes strenuous exercise that strengthens the heart, improves circulation, builds muscle strength, improves joint mobility and increases endurance and flexibility.

Gardening chores are seasonal and can lead to injury if your body is not properly prepared for these activities. Start stretching for several weeks prior to beginning outdoor gardening chores. Regular stretching of legs, arms, back, and even hands and feet are essential. Also daily get rid of the remote and get up and walk to the television to change channels, put some of the things you use daily on the bottom shelf of your cupboards this helps get you ready for the bending down you will do in the garden. Also practice lifting your children or other items by squatting and lifting with your legs instead of bending over and straining your back.

Regular gardening chores can burn anywhere from 120 to 200 calories per half hour depending on the intensity of the activity.

Muscles on the upper body , back and legs are given a moderate to a heavy intensity workout when you are digging or spading in the garden. For a moderate whole body workout plant shrubs, trees and other transplants. Moving and dividing your perennials would be a good example of this. Trimming and pruning trees and shrubs is a moderate workout for our hands, forearms, shoulders and upper back. Sorry to say that raking the yard provides moderate or a light workout of the arms, shoulders, back, hamstrings and buttocks even though it seems like a lot of work.

Aside from the exercise we get from gardening it is stress relieving and a good way to relax. So get up and get fit with gardening.

- Gwen Balensiefen Marshall-Putnam Master Gardener