Tis' the time of the year that we encounter critter problems with our landscaping. We have diligently planted fall bulbs, trees and shrubs and they all can fall prey to animals ranging in size from a field mouse to the lovely deer. Most are looking for food during the winter, but not in most cases true of deer.

To keep squirrels from digging up the fall bulbs planted for next season color, try putting chicken wire on the ground over the bulbs and hold it in place with bricks, rocks, soil or long wire staples made from coat hangers. Another option but more costly and harder to handle is hardware cloth.

Young trees and woody plants become prey from bark feeding animals. Early fall preparation can save you from standing out in bone chilling winds of winter trying to protect your trees. Deer, rabbits, field mice or voles, and occasionally squirrels will eat bark. For squirrels this is a last resort of they have plenty of other winter foods.

Deer can especially be a problem, as they will feed on the buds, shoots, and bark of young trees. They can also cause damage when the bucks rub their antlers against trunks and limbs.

One option for the smaller critter is hope you have a red-tail hawk or Kestrel that loves to visit; they will keep the population of field mice and voles down. Another is to have a dog alert you to the deer. Other options are wire cages 6 to 8 feet tall and well staked might help keep them away. Electric fencing is another option for large areas. There are some commercial repellents that can be used as another option; nothing is 100 percent effective. Old fashion remedies such as human hair, fragrant bars of soap, or mothballs can be tried.

Rabbits, field mice and voles also eat bark during the winter. Wire guards made of hardware cloth will prevent this critter from getting to the plants. Make the guards at least 6 inches in diameter, if not more and 24 inches high. If we receive more snow than that they will feed on it anyway.

If other critters start frequenting your home such as skunks, raccoons, or opossums and you leave pet food out, bring in the dishes at night. They greatly enjoy morsels we leave out for them.

As humans we have to remember with the ever increasing expansion going on and everyone trying to have a piece of the quiet country we are intruding on the natural habitat of wildlife and they are becoming more and more dependent on us to feed them.

Information for this article was obtained from the University of Missouri web page and Joe Temple, Master Gardener University of Illinois Extension, LaSalle County

- Marshanne Entwistle, Bureau County MG

Joe Temple was honored by the LaSalle County Unit of the University of Illinois Extension at an open house recently. Joe has spent over 4,000 hours of volunteer time in the last few years serving the Extension as the Master Gardener Volunteer Coordinator. Joe's service to the Extension has been a lifelong commitment, beginning with 4-H Club membership and leadership, service on the local fair board and the local Extension Council

• Christmas trees take 7 to 10 years to mature.
• Christmas trees are grown in all 50 states including Alaska and Hawaii.
• 98% of all Christmas trees are grown on tree farms.
• Approximately 73 million Christmas trees are planted each year at about 2000 per acre.
• There approximately 500 tree farms in Illinois.
• One acre of trees produces enough oxygen for 18 people.
• For a complete list of tree farms, tree types and their descriptions, go to Web site listed below.

Source for these articles are taken from the UIUC Hort corner Web site at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/trees/treecare.html.

- Darlene Ray, MasterGardener, LaSalle County Extension

With a little care and knowledge, this years' Christmas tree can be your best yet. First decide if you want a fresh cut tree from a "cut yourself " tree farm, a tree from a lot or what is becoming popular, a live tree to plant in your yard after Christmas.

For a live tree consider that it can't be in your home longer than a week to ten days at the longest. But the upside is you will enjoy it in your garden for many years. It may cost a little more than big cut trees but it will be more useful. This decision should be made soon before the ground freezes.

Choose a tree with the help of the nursery experts and tell them what you want to do. Keeping it small will keep down costs and be easier to maneuver. After bringing it home you should gradually introduce it to the indoors by keeping it in a sheltered, unheated room like a garage or porch but not where it can freeze for a few days up to a week. Keep it watered thoroughly but don't over water.

If planning to buy a live tree, dig the hole before the ground freezes. Store the soil you take from the hole in a place where it won't freeze. Keep the hole filled with mulch or leaves so it won't fill with ice and snow.

After a few days move the tree indoors and trim like any other tree. Keep lights to a minimum. Keep the tree in its pot or if it is in burlap, put it in a big plastic tub or pot and cover with your tree skirt or a red or green plastic table cloth.

Keep it or any cut tree away from heaters, drafts, doors, radiators, TV's, fireplaces or air ducts to prevent excessive drying. Mini lights produce less heat and reduces drying effects. Keep room cool if possible.

Right after Christmas, plant the tree and mulch with at least 2 inches of mulch. Stake the tree to protect it from high winter winds. Water it thoroughly and water every 20 days or so if there is not enough rain or snow fall. Now you can enjoy it all year.

Fresh cut trees: Before going shopping, especially if you 'cut your own', do some planning. Measure the space where the tree will be placed. Consider the height of the tree stand and the tree topper. (Remember the Griswold's in "Christmas Vacation"?) Dress warm, bring rain gear, a measuring tape, a saw, a tarp, rope and a camera. A shot of the family picking or cutting a tree down makes a great Christmas card for next year. Some tree farms will provide a saw and netting to wrap your tree but be prepared if they don't.

Of course look at the tree from all angles to make sure it has a straight trunk, and measure the diameter of the trunk to make sure it will fit in your stand. For cut trees from a lot, gently shake it. If a lot of needles fall or are brown and branches break instead of bend, move on.

If you can't put the tree up right away, keep it in a cool garage or away from freezing and wind in a bucket of warm water. Make a fresh cut at the bottom trunk and place in the tree stand with water so the tree can take up the water right away. If left to "heal" it will create a barrier and the tree will not take up the moisture.

To make it easier to water a decorated tree with presents under it try this: get a 3 to 4 foot piece of PVC pipe or wide vinyl tubing. Place it in the tree stand and pour a little water down it at a time so as not to overflow the stand. Use a plant watering can. Less bending or moving the tree skirt and presents makes daily watering easier.

Safety tips:

• Before decorating, check lights for frayed cords or missing light bulbs and of course, test the string of lights to make sure they light.
• Keep tree watered daily. Trees may use a quart or more of water per day.
• Keep pets and children away from tree. When not home, turn the lights off and keep pets out of that room and the doors closed whenever possible.
• Don't light the tree if it has dried out too much.

After Christmas, recycle cut trees. Place them outdoors as shelter for birds and other wildlife. Put it through a chipper for mulch around trees and shrubs. Check with your local municipality who may collect trees for mulch, or prune off branches to use as protective mulch over perennials or small shrubs.

Enjoy!

- Darlene Ray, Master Gardener, LaSalle County Extension

Gardeners are always looking for something new and different for their gardens. Plant breeders are always searching for those new cultivars to supply to gardeners. This is the time of year to be getting the two together.

For a start, let's begin with an annual that has lots of color and appeal. An Fı zinnia, 'Zowie! Yellow Flame' Zinnia elegans is a semi-tall plant with a novel bicolor pattern.

Each 3- to 4-inch semi-double bloom contains a scarlet/rose center with yellow petal edges. The color combination is uniformly intense, like a yellow flame. In a sunny garden, mature plants will reach 24 to 29 inches tall, spreading 26 to 27 inches. The blooms make excellent cut flower bouquets. At the back of a bed they will attract a lot of attention, getting the gardener a host of compliments.

A medium height annual worth considering is Salvia farinacea,' Evolution'. Its 6- to 7-inch flower spikes are violet, distinctly different from blue. It reaches 16 to 24 inches tall and spreads 16 to 19 inches. If you are searching for something that requires minimal maintenance, this could be the plant. Plant it in fertile soil and watering is the only requirement to keep it flowering consistently. It has few disease or pest problems. If salvias appeal to you, this one might be worth a try.

Continuing on in the blue side of the color spectrum, let's consider two annuals of exceptional garden performance. Both are Fı hybrids, bred for vigor, scent, heat tolerance, and prolific bloom.

First is Dianthus interspecific 'Supra Purple', with 1.5-inch single purple flowers, lacy with highly fringed petal edges. In full sun this plant will reach 12 inches tall and spread for 10 inches. Blossoms can be cut for fresh arrangements during its long flowering period.

The next annual is 'Perfume Deep Purple,' Nicotiana x Sanderae, so named for the delicate evening fragrance it produces. It was bred for scent and its unique deep purple flower color. The single, 2-inch star-shaped flowers are produced in abundance. The plants can reach 20 inches and spread 15 to 18 inches in full-sun garden locations.

It can be used in semi-shade locations or in containers. It might be worth a try.

Transferring from annuals to vegetables, but still in the purple category is an Fı hybrid carrot that makes us wonder how it tastes. It grows 10 to 12 inches long, smooth, and tapers to a point. Apparently when cooked the purple color is lost. Most attractive when used raw in salads, as the purple exterior and the bright orange center make for interesting contrast. Deemed to have sweet flavor when taste tested. Plants reach 14 to 16 inches tall, with normal growing conditions, meaning loose soil 12 inches deep. They can be grown in large containers with parsley or sage to make attractive displays.

Next on the list are two Fı hybrid peppers, one unusually sweet and the other a mildly "hot" chili pepper.

'Carmen' is a beautiful, improved Italian-type sweet pepper. The distinctive horn-shaped fruit has wide shoulders tapering to a smooth point. The upright plants grow to 28 inches tall and 16 inches wide. When ripe, the red fruit is sweet, whether eaten raw or cooked. One feature about this pepper is its earliness, ripening a week earlier than other varieties.

The hot pepper, 'Mariachi,' is an improved cone-shaped pepper, scoring 500 to 600 Scoville heat units, a mildly hot chili pepper. The plants produce an abundance of 3- to 4-inch peppers on 18 to 24 inch growth continuously during the season. If plants are stressed due to hot weather or lack of water the fruit can become more pungent.

The peppers can be used in a wide variety of dishes, including salsa, sauces, to grill or to stuff. For hot pepper lovers this can be one to enjoy.

Lastly, on the list of new varieties is cilantro, Coriandrum sativum, 'Delfino.' It is an improved aromatic, edible herb. The plant looks a bit different than other coarse-leaved cilantros. It has more fernlike foliage. Cilantro seeds are the spice, coriander that can be used in many ethnic recipes. The plant can be grown in containers on decks or patios with other herbs or annual flowers. It gets about 20 inches tall when mature.

In 2006 give at least one of these suggestions a trial run to see what you think of them.

- Joe Temple LaSalle MG

Houseplants are a staple in most homes. Proper care of houseplants during winter months can help insure the health of your houseplants. Dry air, low light, low humidity and artificial heat are conditions that houseplants need to adapt to in winter. Consideration of these needs will pay off with lush healthy foliage.

Temperature

Daytime temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees and nighttime temperatures of 60 to 65 degrees is adequate for most houseplants. Avoid placing plants near cold drafts, radiators and hot air vents. The foliage should not touch cold windows.

Humidity

Houseplants prefer humidity levels of 40 to 60%. During the winter the humidity level in our homes may be only 10 to 20% which is too low for houseplants. You can use whole house or room humidifiers to help with this problem or put the plants near a dishwasher or shower. Grouping the plants together will also help with humidity levels. Water evaporating from the potting soil, plus water lost through foliage transpiration will increase the relative humidity in the immediate vicinity of the plants. Another alternative is to place the plants on trays, (saucers) filled with pebbles or gravel and water, remembering that the bottoms of the pots should be above the water level. Misting is not an effective method to raise relative humidity levels.

Location

Many houseplants grow well on windowsills or table tops. If the temperature drops below freezing and the window has frost on it, remove the plant from the sill overnight and return in the morning.

North-facing windows tend to provide the least amount of light. Plants tolerant of low light conditions, should be placed within one foot of the sill.

East-facing windows get indirect light through them most of the day and cooler temperatures.

South-facing windows provide the greatest amount of light. Plants that need direct light or high levels of light do well in southern windows. While light is intense in southern windows, so is the temperature. If a plant cannot tolerate high temperature, place it to the side of the window for indirect light.

West-facing windows provide indirect light in the morning and early afternoon, strong direct light and higher temperatures in mid to late afternoon.

To supplement winter's reduced light use florescent lights placed a few inches from the plant.

Watering Houseplants require less frequent watering during the winter months. Most plants should be watered when the soil is barely moist or almost dry to the touch. Remember to use room temperature water.

Fertilization is not necessary during the winter months because most plants are resting or growing very little. Resume fertilizing in March or April.

Dust and grease accumulates on the leaves of plants, causing slow plant growth. Cleaning the leaves helps the appearance, stimulates growth and may help control insects and mites.

- Gwen Balensiefen Marshall-Putnam Master Gardener

One of the primary functions of Master Gardeners is the sharing of horticultural information with the general public. In LaSalle Co. the so-called "hot line" or help line is available 5 days a week during normal business hours for the Extension Office. Several hundred calls and inquiries are normal for a year's work.

What are most people interested in? In LaSalle County we get more calls pertaining to trees (28%) than any other category. The typical caller says, "I think my tree is dying (or ailing or has something wrong with it.)" The second sentence, without fail, follows the first, "I don't want to lose the tree!" Sometimes the caller adds, "Should I put (name of popular fertilizer) on it?"

Twenty-three percent (23%) are inquiries about insects. Some are simply for identifying the insect. These vary with the season. In the spring there are a few warm days when the calls come in "about those terrible ladybugs." An irate housewife will declare she has millions of them in her house and wants to know how to get rid of them "once and for all." One possibility, open the windows and let them out. Take a vacuum and suck them up, emptying the vacuum bag outdoors.

In July there are questions about Japanese Beetles. At other times there are a few inquiries about Asian Longhorn Beetles. What the press releases do not tell people is that there may be as many as 1200 kinds of longhorn beetles.

Then there are the fierce looking wolf spiders. Many people assume all spiders are dangerous. The truth is, they are only dangerous if you are an insect, because they are predators in their own right, and beneficial to people.

Occasionally we get calls regarding swarms of bees. Sometimes they are honeybees and other times someone mistakes them for bees, but are actually hornets, wasps, or yellowjackets.

Last spring there were numerous calls regarding the safety of eating rhubarb after it had been frosted. The spring brought some frosts that were unusual, thus the number of calls.

Spring usually brings inquiries about controlling those @#$% moles. Home remedies are often suggested by the caller, indicating he or she has tried them to no avail. Such things as chewing gum, castor oil poured in the runways, red hot pepper, creosote, mothballs, or 3" blackberry canes. Our response is TRAPS. That is based on recommendations in the University of Nebraska books, "Prevention and Control of Wildlife Damage.

The books also contain excellent control suggestions for bats, birds, and 'possums.

They cover critters from mice to woodchucks, deer, rabbits, squirrels, chipmunks, and raccoons. Also skunks.

In the weed category, creeping Charlie leads the list of bad ones. We have had two inquiries to identify pokeweed. One client thought it was so colorful they wanted to transplant it into another part of the garden. Because of a large, deep taproot we suggested they plant the seeds where they wanted it to grow. Good luck.

Another client called about bringing a sample weed to the office. Good idea, do it.

He came in lugging a weed, root and all, measuring nine feet tall. After a little research we identified it as poison hemlock. It was growing on state highway right-of-way so we advised them of the fact and they vowed to eradicate it with Roundup.

In the vegetable category, tomatoes demand the most answers. Blossom-end rot is common, along with some wilt diseases.

This year we have had 3 opportunities to identify snakes. One had to be sent to Urbana to finally get a definitive answer. The others were less time consuming.

We have had a few lawn questions, and for some of us, the fungal diseases of lawns are the most challenging of all questions.

Fruit tree questions make up about ten percent of the total. Otherwise, there are a few questions about soil testing, perennials, houseplants, and small fruits.

One of the fastest ways for a Master Gardener to expand his or her knowledge of horticultural subjects is to work the "help line" in the local office for 30 hours a year.

- Joe Temple, LaSalle Co

This is the time of year, with snow flying and cold that penetrates to the inner beings of ones soul, that garden catalogs get dog-eared and beaten up from eager gardeners poring over them selecting from among the brightly colored pictures, vivid descriptions, and unlimited promises, the nice things they think they want to order for planting next spring.

Garden catalogs fill mailboxes this time of year. They come from Bellingham, Washington on the west to Spittleswitch, Maine in the east, and all points in between. All you have to do is pick out what you want and order by phone, fax, e-mail, on-line, or the old fashioned way with US Postal Service. Send no money, just a credit card number, and your order will be processed before you can say "Hypericum empetrifolium."

After you come to your senses, you begin to ask serious questions, like "why did I order that plant in the first place?" Most vegetable and flower descriptions are quite accurate, but watch for those that make unusual claims. Beware of some of the Sunday supplement ads that make exorbitant claims for a variety of tree that sounds dirt cheap compared to what you would pay from a local nursery. It may be what the trade refers to as a "weed" tree, unworthy of most anyone's yard.

Look for Latin or scientific names on ornamental plants. Sometimes common names vary from region to region, and you may end up with something that you didn't want.

Will what I have ordered, grow here? That southern nursery may be promoting plant material that is suited for Zones 7 to 10. We are in Zone 5a, with colder winters. Plant hardiness needs to be reckoned with.

Length of growing season is another factor. Will the fruit or vegetable mature here before frost? This part of Illinois is not recommended for peaches, nectarines, or sweet cherries. They do better south of a line from St. Louis to Vincennes, Indiana. (We know your grandfather grew wonderful peaches here in this area for years. He was lucky!)

Lastly, do I really need what I have ordered? Will the flower, tree, or shrub fit into the landscape where I expect to put it? What about the soil, sun, shade, too wet, too dry, fertility, space requirements, and will it be appropriate for my yard?

These are all questions to be answered before you send that order off to the supplier.

- Joe Temple LaSalle Co. MG

The chief growing season for most house plants is late winter or early spring. Before the growing season starts, the plants should be examined to determine if they are in need of repotting. House plants need to be repotted when their roots have filled the pot and are growing out the bottom of the pot.

The pot used for repotting should be no more than 2 inches in diameter larger than the old pot, and have a drainage hole in the bottom. It must also be clean. A reused pot can be washed in a diluted bleach water.

Remove the plant from the old pot by turning it upside down , holding back the soil and plant with one hand while knocking the lip of the container against a stable surface.

The new planting media should be moist. Place a clay pot chard over the drainage hole in the new pot. If the plant is root bound, cut and unwind roots that circle the plant.

Set the root ball in the middle of the new soil. Fill in with potting soil. Do not add soil above the original level unless roots are exposed. Do not pack soil. Water thoroughly.

- Pattie Ong Marshall-Putnam Master Gardener

Everyone enjoys watching birds, especially in the winter. It is very easy to attract birds to your yard simply by providing bird feeders filled with seeds. The first thing to consider in caring for birds in the winter is the type of feeder that you wish to use. There are many types of feeders including platform feeders, tube feeders, hopper feeders, suet feeders and finch feeders as well as other specialized feeders. The most common feeders include platform feeders, finch feeders and tube feeders. To attract a variety of birds, you may ant to use more than one type of bird feeder.

The second consideration in winter care of birds is the type of bird seed that you wish to use. As the different species of birds prefer different types of seeds, you will want to decide which birds that you wish to feed. The most popular seeds are black oil sunflower seeds which attract cardinals, finches, chickadees, and evening grosbeaks but are not as well-liked by starlings and non-native sparrows. Native sparrows and juncos especially enjoy white prose millet seeds. Thistle seed attracts house finches, pine siskin and goldfinches. If you want to attract a variety of birds, you may also want to provide a variety of birds seeds. There are specialized bird feeders for these different types of seeds.

The third consideration for caring for birds in the winter involves the placement and care of birdfeeders. Feeders should be placed so that you can easily see the birds from your home. This will allow you to be aware when feeders need to be filled or cleaned. It is important to keep your bird feeders, dry, cleaned and filled throughout the winter. Feeders should be hung near trees or shrubs to provide cover for the birds and protection from predators as well as shelter from the wind. You should space your feeders approximately 3-5 feet apart at varied heights to encourage a range of birds. If you wish to fill your feeders less often, use larger bird feeders. There are also feeders that you can fill without leaving your house in the winter.

The fourth consideration for winter bird care involves the type of food that you wish to provide for the birds. When selecting bird seed, it is preferable to use one seed type for each feeder rather than using a commercial mix. Some birds also enjoy peanut kernels. You will a wide variety of birds by providing suet placed in a suet cage. Woodpeckers, blue jays, nuthatches, and chickadees especially enjoy suet. The best suet is usually peanut or almond suet.

The fifth consideration to care for birds in the winter involves providing much needed water throughout the winter. If temperatures in your area drop below freezing, you can use either a heated birdbath or immersion heater that is used to keep the water in a bird bath from freezing. You will want to keep your birdbaths filled and clean to ensure the welfare of the birds that visit your property.

The sixth consideration for caring for birds in the winter is avoiding unwanted pests and visitors to your feeders. Squirrels can be prevented from visiting your feeders by placing feeders at least 5 feet from the ground and at least 8 to 10 inches from the nearest branch or building as well as using a baffle to deter squirrels. An 18-inch radius cone at 4 feet above the ground on the feeder post can deter raccoons. If you wish to deter larger bird pests as grackles, use feeders for smaller birds.

The final consideration in taking care of birds in the winter involves providing a landscape that attracts, protects and feeds birds as well as providing nesting sites. Birds are attracted to bushes, trees, brush piles, fallen trees and branches, and tall grass. Many trees, shrubs and plants also provide seeds and fruits that are attractive to birds. When planning your landscape, keep the welfare of birds in the winter in mind, and you will benefit both native and migratory birds. All of these iseas will help to provide a wonderful panorama of bird activity through the winter as well as taking excellent care of birds in the winter.

- Linda Gustafson Bureau County Master Gardener

o, have you eaten any fruits or vegetables lately? Take a look at what the grown-ups are preparing for your meals and snacks and see if you can tell the fruits from the vegetables. Some good things to cut open and look at are apples, tomatoes, bananas and peppers. Since they have seeds inside they are all considered fruits. You will have to look very closely to see the seeds in a banana, but they are there. Then look inside carrots, broccoli, cabbage or potatoes. Those are all vegetables that are harvested before they have a chance to flower, so you won't find any seeds, even on the outsides.

Here is fun gardening activity that you can do at home when the weather is too cold for outdoor gardening. You can plant both a fruit and a vegetable and get great looking houseplants for the winter months!

AVOCADO PLANT – Avocados are fun to grow . The seed is big and in a few short weeks it will be a handsome foliage plant. Just follow the steps below:

1. Select ripe (soft and dark) fruit at the store.

2. Choose a flower pot, but make sure it has a drainage hole.

3. Cover the drainage hole with broken crockery to keep the soil in the pot.

4. Fill the pot three-quarters full with regular potting soil and the remainder with washed sand.

5. Remove the seed, wash it, and allow it to dry (make sure you eat the meat from the avocado, it's delicious!)

6. Insert the avocado seed, pointed end up, so about one-third of it is above the sand.

7. Keep the sand damp, but not wet, and watch it grow!

The avocado seed will also root in plain water.

1. Suspend the seed, using toothpicks for support, so that the thick end touches the water. Add water as needed to keep the seed suspended.

2. Place the seed in a dimly lighted area for six to eight weeks, or until the long tap root emerges.

3. Plant the germinating seedling in a pot, as described above, but avoid breaking the roots.

4. Move the plant into the light. A pale green shoot will soon appear. At first the leaves will be small and pointed but growth will soon accelerate.

SWEET POTATOES – Turn a sweet potato into a vining house plant. The stems grow vigorously, even in plain water. In a short time the vines will be long enough to train around a window.

1. Select a firm sweet potato from the grocery store.

2. Place pieces of charcoal in a jar of water to keep it sweet and discourage odor and decay.

3. Place the tapered end of the root tip just under water. Use toothpicks to support the potato if needed.

4. Place the plant near a lighted window. Light keeps the vine compact and the leaves a darker green.

- Sherry Hockings, Bureau County Program Director, Educational Programs

It is not at all too early to be thinking about the gardener on your Christmas list!! You'll want to be prepared with that special gift and the list is endless.

Keep in mind the many common gardening tools – spade, shovel, rake, hoe, pruners, trowels (two sizes is always nice to have) to name a few. How about a large brimmed hat to keep away the hot rays of the sun; and maybe an apron to keep yourself as clean as possible (gardening is most of the time a very dirty/dusty job!!); and don't forget a pair of either gardening shoes or clogs – something easy to slip on and off when you do not want mud strung all over the place. Several pair of gardening gloves are always nice – one pair of the gloves should be the rubberized gloves which are great when you are doing muddy jobs and several pair of the colorful cotton gloves are nice to have – when one pair gets dirty, you have a spare pair to use while the other is in the laundry. These are some of the most common gifts; however, if you want to be fancy, how about a garden kneeler – really saves on the knees; you can purchase a nice one for about $35.00. Another nice gift would be any kind of statuary such as Gazebo Garden Stakes, Garden Stepping Stones, Solar Lights or maybe Fiber Optic Butterfly Lights – these come in 17' strands with 10 lights per strand and can be purchased for approximately $35.00. There are many, many cheaper items that can be purchased for the garden that will make your garden more attractive.

When purchasing for Christmas, the special plant that is out at this time of the year is the Amaryllis Bulb – they can be purchased at most of the places who have garden supplies. They are a beautiful plant that comes in various sizes – most grow up to 10-12 inches – in various shades of red that the entire family will enjoy; the other popular plant at this time of the year are the paper whites – once they bloom, they have the most wonderful fragrance that sort of permeates the entire house – again, a plant the entire family can enjoy; the poinsettia comes in various shades nowadays and they will last all winter if the directions are followed as to watering and light. I have finally thrown one away in May as I have wanted to go on to something new. A gift that you might not think of is the Shiitake Mushroom Log – they can be purchased on line or perhaps can be purchased at some of the greenhouses. Mine sits out doors and I have had quite a few mushrooms on it to enjoy.

Hopefully, the above suggestions will be of help to you when purchasing for your gardener friends. But remember, gardeners are not fussy – they appreciate anything that will enhance their garden.

- Anna Mae Jacobsen Marshall-Putnam Master Gardener

Let's see, last year I planted what in that spot in the garden I really liked? I have to move what plant because it didn't do very good in this garden, and I'm moving it where?

These are questions a lot of us ask our selves when we start to work in our gardens in the spring.

I found myself asking the same questions. I started taking pictures of my flower beds when they are in full bloom. Then these pictures go in a notebook along with other notes about this certain flowerbed.

My Garden Notebook is a three ring binder with dividers that are labeled with each garden's number. I have found that this is a lot easier then trying to remember the changes I want to make.

After putting the pictures, in I can write notes about changes I want to make for next year.

Also I put down how much sun and shade this garden gets . This helps when I find a flower in a book or on the web that I would like to try.

During dull grey and overcast days I like to go through gardening catalogs, and search the web for other flowers I might like to try to grow. I can look in my notebook and see if there is a spot in one of my gardens for this flower. I then cut a picture of this flower out so I can take it with me to the greenhouse.

Where I bought and the name of the varieties that I like are also kept in that book.

I hope this will help you in planning your gardens for 2006. I have already gone thru my book and found a few things I want to change.

- Gwen Balensiefen Marshall-Putnam Master Garden

I shudder when I see a newly purchased poinsettia going from the store to a distant vehicle in the parking lot without benefit of wrapping, a cover or protection from the cold windy outdoor environment with the temperature hovering around 39 degrees.

Poinsettia is a native plant in Mexico. It enjoys temperatures between 60 and 70 degrees. Sudden temperature changes can cause the plant to drop its leaves. Even a chill in the house near a window can cause leaf drop. Position plants away from drafty doors and heat sources.

When selecting a poinsettia to purchase for home or a gift, look for plants with thick, stocky stems, deep, intense color and leaves that go all the way down the stem. At home provide at least six hours of bright, sunny natural daylight, but keep the hot afternoon sun from shining directly on them to avoid fading colors.

Overwatering will kill the roots of poinsettias. Roots of poinsettias, along with other plants, need to have air. Keep the soil moist – not too wet and not too dry. Wait until the soil surface begins to dry slightly before watering. However, do not let it dry out to the extent the soil becomes hard. If the plant has foil wrapped around the pot, either remove it or punch holes in the bottom to allow excess water to escape.

Poinsettias require no fertilizer during the holiday season. After blooming is over, provide a balanced fertilizer to maintain a healthy vigorous plant.

- Joe Temple LaSalle County Master Gardener

My favorite flowers are petunias. There are so many varieties and colors.

I plant cascading petunias in my hanging baskets and love the way they gently spill over the side.

White petunias go beautifully in the pots with red geraniums in them. I think I use more petunias in my flower beds than any flower. I like mixing the different colors together and seeing the mass of color. I have cut a few of them for small arrangements.

Petunias are also really easy to grow. I don't usually start mine from seed, but I know a lot of people who do. Usually at the end of planting I have purchased at least 3 flats of petunias alone. Deadheading is always a constant job, but in the evening that's my relaxation, becoming one with nature.

I know everyone has their favorite plants and in the coming issues several other Master Gardeners will be telling you about theirs.

So if you haven't tried the versatile petunia yet I suggest you do and maybe you'll find as many uses for them as I have.

- Gwen Balensiefen Marshall-Putnam Master Gardener