The AAS was founded in 1932 by W.Ray Hastings, president of the Southern Seedsmen's Association of Atlanta, Georgia. He convinced fellow seed companies to set up trial grounds to test new varieties of seeds. The trial grounds are now all around North America and new winners are picked each year. Here are the 2008 winners and a list of the 2007 winners to refresh your memory and to add to your already "too long" list of seeds to order.

For a list of companies that sell the plants or seed, go to www.all-americaselections.org/Winners.

AAS 2008 winners:

Eggplant F1 'Hansel'

This is a miniature eggplant with finger-sized clusters of fruit. They say don't make the mistake of thinking it produces less fruit. The strong plants reach less than three feet and thirty inches wide and produce clusters of three to six fruit. Matures early, 55 days. Even if left on vine past the recommended 3 inches, it will still be tender and non-bitter. Adapts well to containers. Bred by Seminis Vegetable Seed.

Viola F1 'Skippy XL Plum-Gold'

This Viola has sunny gold faces that are uniquely designed with plum shades surrounding golden centers which radiate black lines, sometimes called whiskers. Blooms are about 1-1/2 inches but not underrated. Grows lavish numbers of blooms,. This petite plants grows to 6 to 8 inches tall and wide. Seeds will be available this fall. Bred by Kleft Seeds of Holland.

Osteospermum F1 'Asti White'

This is a pure white daisy with blue centers. They are 2 to 2-1/2 inches across on stems with thick, fleshy leaves that are drought tolerant. Flowers about 17 weeks from seed and will bloom and recover after a light frost. They will reach 17 to 20 inches tall and wide. Bread and produced by Goldsmith Seeds, Inc.

- Darlene Ray, LaSalle County Master Gardener

A living Easter basket

About four weeks before Easter line a pretty basket with foil. Fill with potting mix. Plant with either wheat or grass seed. Keep moist. When about 3 inches high, trim and on Easter morning place your colored eggs therein.

- Lucille Ledgner, Bureau County

The successful 4-Seasons Gardening Telenet series will be offered again this year. The program gives you an opportunity to interact with Extension Horticulture Educators from across the state.

Orchids 101

Tuesday, April 8th at 1:00

Thursday, April 10th at 7:00

Containers with Pizazz

Tuesday, April 22nd at 1:00

Thursday, April 24th at 7:00

A Palette of Annuals - A-Z

Tuesday, May 6th at 1:00

Thursday, May 8th 7:00

Roses

Tuesday, June 24th at 1:00

Thursday, June 26th at 7:00

Late Summer & Fall Blooming Perennials

Tuesday, July 8th at 1:00

Thursday, July 10th at 7:00

Summer & Fall Blooming Trees & Shrubs

Tuesday, July 22nd at 1:00

Thursday, July 24th at 7:00

Tree Identification & Maintenance

Tuesday, September 16th at 1:00

Thursday, September 18th at 7:00

Going Green With Evergreens

Tuesday, September 30th at 1:00

Thursday October 2nd at 7:00

Backyard Composting

Tuesday, October 14th at 1:00

Thursday, October 16th at 7:00

Call your local Extension office for the day & time they are offering these programs and to register.

Our sometime harsh and unpredictable winter climate is responsible for severe damage to our trees, shrubs and perennials. There are actions you can take to prevent winter damage but always remember, some damage is not preventable .The best of our attentions and efforts can be no match for mother nature.

The first step would be to plan your new plantings with winter in mind. Pick varieties of trees that are known for their strength as well as their beauty. These trees seem to sustain winter damage Bradford Pear, Redbud, and Silver Maple, among many others. The very common Arborvitae is a shrub with pliable branches that can bend and break under snowfall. If you simply cannot live without these trees and shrubs then you must take careful consideration to their placement. Look at your property and observe its microclimates. Do you have a windy side where there is no protection for plants? That would not be the best place to plant. Perhaps you might want to reconsider planting under your eaves where snow slides can avalanche off the roof and damage a plant. If you put thought into placement of plants and choose varities that are more hardy than others you are a step ahead in warding off winter damage. You can research plant hardiness at your local Extension office.

If you do have broken branches due to ice or winds, you can remove them in the winter from your trees and shrubs without any damage to the plant. If you find heavy snow on shrub branches, take a soft broom and gently brush the snow from the branches, being careful to avoid dumping the snow on yourself . You can then tie up the bending branches with some twine but not too tight as that could damage the bark.

Desiccation (drying of living tissue ) takes places on plants with evergreen foliage, such as rhododendrons or on plants with large buds, such as Magnolia spp. There are anti-desiccation sprays to apply in the fall but generally putting these plants in wind protected areas is the best prevention. If you do sustain damage, then simply cut the brown damaged areas in the spring.

In the perennial garden, a layer of 4-6 inches of good organic mulch applied in the fall will help prevent root injury damage and frost heaving. Root injury can occur from extreme cold temperatures and frost heaving damage occurs when there are significant fluctuations in temperature. A good layer of mulch will help keep the soil temperatures constant thereby reducing the damage to that part of the plant that is below ground.

All plants respond differently to winter stress and some plants will amaze you with their ability to withstand extremely bad conditions. Plan well and be ready to act in case of damage and know that your local county Extension Office is ready to help answer any questions you might have .

- Laurie Bonnuci, Bureau County Master Gardener

Do you find yourself wanting gardening information NOW? Extension has a great new website, called "hortanswers". You can use this website to find out information on a wide range of plants and the problems that affect them. This site is designed to cover plants that are common used in USDA hardiness zones 4, 5 and 6. Give it a try. You can find it at:

www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/hortanswers/

So the next time you find yourself needing a garden question answered get on the internet and take a look.

Nanette Londeree, Consulting Rosarian of California,

Sister of Bureau County Master Gardener, Marshann Entwistle

There seems to be a lot of mystery surrounding rose pruning, as well as lots of "rules" to follow in order to do it correctly. If I have learned anything over the last decade of pruning hundreds of roses, it is that roses are very forgiving. If you cut too high, too low, at an inward facing bud rather than an outward facing one, in the long run, it really will not make a lot of difference. If the resulting growth does not grow in the fashion or direction you desire, cut it again to correct it. Once you realize that there is not too much one can do wrong, it makes the whole job much easier.

A few lessons learned by this rosarian (the hard way):

1. Do not prune old roses (once bloomers) at this time. The blooms on the old roses are produced on last years growth. If you prune them now, you are pruning your spring flowers away!

2. Do not prune newly planted roses - they need to get established before you remove any growth (other than dead wood).

3. Prune first year roses (those you have grown for one season) lightly. They may not have developed a lot of top growth the first season, and need all their canes to continue to thrive.

1. Invest in a good pair of shears and keep them oiled, adjusted and very sharp! Do not use anvil-type shears because they bruise the bark. If you use loppers, make sure they are also the pass-through type. A small pruning saw is a necessity for large canes and for getting into places that cannot be reached with shears or loppers.

2. Wear good, strong, durable gloves. They should be sturdy but flexible. It is also beneficial to use gloves with gauntlets that cover the forearm. Wear hard finish clothing such as denim and wear long sleeves.

3. Remove every leaf from newly pruned bushes; diseases tend to carry over in winter on old green leaves left on the bush. Once pruning is done, it is an excellent time to do a dormant spray; this will reduce insects and disease in the upcoming season.

4. Pay attention to where you are placing your hands. Roses don't stick you; you stick yourself on the roses! Experienced pruners rarely get severely scratched, but it is a good idea to check to see if you have had a tetanus shot in the last 10 years.

5. Start at the bottom of the bush, but look to the top before cutting. Do not let the "decisions" about what to cut make you tense or slow you down.

6. The cane will tend to grow in the direction the top bud is pointing - cut to an outside bud on uprights bushes and to an inside bud on sprawling bushes. Cut about 1/4" away from the bud, If cut closer, the new hygrowth may break off. If cut longer, an unsightly stub will remain.

7. Cut back to good healthy wood. Discolored pith (interior of cane) may indicate frost or disease damage, and while such a cane may bloom, it will usually die back come summer. At best it is a poor framework for future growth.

8. Remove about one-third to one-half of the volume of the plant, leaving healthy canes, and the center of the plant open.

9. Large canes can be cut easily with sharp shears if they are bent slightly away from the cutting edges of the shears.

10. Do not worry if the cut cane bleeds; there is no evidence to show that it is harmful to either roses or grapevines. It is not necessary to seal cuts.

- Nanette Londeree, Consulting Rosarian of California

Growing fruit for a hobby can add beauty to the landscape as well as providing food and fun for the family. Fruit trees cast a spell in the garden that other plants cannot match. In Spring, winter's bare branches burst into bloom, creating a wonderful fragrance to beckon the bees. With summer approaching, the flowers disappear and reappear as fruit. You do not need magic to grow healthy trees, but of course, there is more to consider than planting trees and harvesting the fruit.

Fruit trees can live for many years and produce hundreds of pounds of fruit, but they will need care, good soil, pruning and thinning, and some protection from pests.

Care of fruit trees in early years includes applying nitrogen 2 weeks after planting and using a complete fertilizer each year, watering as needed. It is a good idea to keep an area approximately 2 feet around the base free of weeds and grasses. Using a mulch on this area will also conserve. Pruning and shaping young trees will pay off in later years. Once the tree has matured (4 years) you will need to maintain balance and remove dead branches.

How much care a tree needs depends on the season, your location, and the kind of fruit. The following chart gives basic seasonal information:

Apple

Spring: Spray to prevent scab disease once flowers show color, and again after petals fall. Fertilize.

Summer: Water, thin fruits (leaving the largest ones in each cluster)

Fall: Harvest fruit

Winter: Spray dormant oil in late winter, prune out dead branches.

Apricot

Spring: Spray to prevent brown rot & shot-hole fungus as flowers open . Fertilize

Summer: Water, thin to 3 or 4 fruits per cluster

Fall: Prune before winter rains, removing old branches. Spray before or during leaf fall

Winter: Spray dormant oil with fixed copper.

Cherry

Spring: Spray to control brown rot as flowers open and again at full bloom. Fertilize

Summer: Water, and cover with net to keep birds away.

Fall: Harvest, water as needed

Winter: Spray dormant oil. Prune dead branches.

Peach

Spring: Spray during bloom to prevent brown. rot , water, fertilize. Thin fruits to 8" apart.

Summer: Water, mulch, harvest

Fall: Spray fixed copper to prevent shot- hole fungus.

Winter: Spray dormant oil and fixed copper. Prune out half of last season's growth.

Pear

Spring: Spray fungicide just before bloom and after bloom for pear scab. Thin fruits to 6" apart. Fertilize sparingly.

Summer: Water, mulch

Fall: Harvest, water

Winter: Clean up fallen fruit. Prune to remove 1/5 of last year's growth & dead branches. Spray dormant oil.

Plum

Spring: Spray fungicide for brown rot as blossoms appear. Water, fertilize, mulch. Thin fruit to3" apart.

Summer: Water, mulch

- Rita Simpkins, Marshall-Putnam Master Gardener

Want to grow mint that won't spread all over your yard taking your pets/small children captive? Try some of these tricks to tame those invasive little monsters that many gardeners call "weeds".

Use containers to 'contain' your herb roots. You can choose any size you want (a child size swimming pool might be a bit much, but just be sure you can lift it when filled. Choose one large enough to give it a "little" room to spread its roots. Speaking of roots, this is the problem with some invasive plants; they like a lot of room, (up to and including your living room, garage and a car or two, no kidding.) After planting the herb of choice in the container, take it and put it in another container that is slightly bigger. Dig the hole where you want and plunk them in. Dig the hole to fit the pot to just below its rim. Once a month or two, lift the first pot out of the second pot and trim off any roots that look like they are trying to escape through drainage holes or up and over the rim. Also, check monthly for any stems that may have grown over the rim and taken root. If so, immediately dig up the entire root and discard or plant it in another pot and give it to a friend/enemy ... judiciously.

Raised Beds- Another possibility is raised beds, your choice of length and width. (This is where you might be able to use the kiddie pool.) Place a vertical barrier around the perimeter of the bed, such as thick plastic or fabric weed barrier, wide landscape edging or strips of sheet metal, Plexiglas™, screening or whatever you can find around the yard. Caution: Mint roots have been known to still grow down and out or up over a barrier that was buried two feet deep around a bed. I have proof!

"Nip it, nip it in the bud" Barney Fife advised. He wasn't referring to invasive herbs, but its good advice for herbs. Many herbs have flowers or seed heads (dill or cilantro) so to avoid reseeding, trim off the blooms and their seeds as soon as they start to dry or even before. Check around for seedlings. This is difficult as wind and birds drop seeds all over your yard. Find them before they bloom or spread. These may be harder than roots or rhizomes to contain.

Stove pipes!!! Some gardeners have been known to sink a stovepipe down in the ground and plant inside it. Another idea is to bury a deep plastic tub about 2 feet deep with drainage holes covered with tiny screening. It will help contain roots, but is still not a 100% guarantee, especially for the mints. Again, I have proof!

Don't plant invasive herbs at all! Last but not least, stay away from herbs that are highly invasive and stick with those that are less likely to sneak into your bedroom window and tie you to your bed in one night. Think that's extreme? Have you ever grown Morning Glories? Choose herbs such as basils or parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme. (Gee, wouldn't that make a good song title?)

Good luck with these tips for tenacious herbs that will spice up part of your garden and not the whole back forty.

For more info, flip through a good herb book like "Taylor's Guide to Herbs", or "The Big Book of Herbs" by Arthur O. Tucker, PH.D. and Thomas DeBaggio, and online at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu and click on 'hort corner', or 'gardenguides.com'.

- Darlene Ray, Master Gardener, LaSalle County Extension

Basil, Ocimum basilicum, is one of the most popular herbs grown today, an easy-to-grow annual that can be planted in the ground or in a container, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator, Susan Grupp.

Hey kids, have you started your garden yet? Here is a great gift idea for next fall and winter, but now is the time to start planning the gifts. This idea is easy and cheap, and lots of fun too!! Have you ever had to buy seed packets? They are expensive and sometimes don't look quite like the picture on the envelope. Here is an idea to save money and impress your family and friends!

First, take a good look at your garden. You are going to be harvesting your own seeds and making your OWN flower seed packets in August and September. It is best to start with flowers, and the ones that are the most reliable to grow and the easiest to harvest are: cleome, morning glory, cornflower, marigold, sunflower, cosmos, impatients, and zinnia.

Watch your flower garden grow all summer, and keep an eye on the most beautiful and healthy plants. In August, the seed heads, or tops of flowers, should be mature and ready to harvest. Pull or clip the seed heads from the plant, holding a bowl or paper bag underneath. It is very important to mark which flower variety you have, because it is easy to get confused once the seed heads are opened. Indoors, open the seed head over newspaper, and throw away the chaff (seed coverings). Let the seed dry on the newspaper in a cool, well-ventilated space for 2-3 weeks. Since flowers are hybrid, there's a good chance that the color and size will not be the same year to year.

Meanwhile, decorate your envelopes with drawings and photographs that you take yourself of the mature flowers, noting the flower's name and year grown. Pour some seeds in each envelope, and store the envelopes in a plastic container with a lid. And watch your family and friend's surprise when you give them a gift that you grew and made all by yourself!!

- Sherry Hockings, Bureau County Program Director, Educational Programs

Kids & parents

check out our websites:

www.extension.uiuc.edu/bureau/

www.extension.uiuc.edu/lasalle/

www.extension.uiuc.edu/marshallputnam/

There are many topics to choose from: families, horticulture, food & nutrition, agriculture and many more.

In the Just For Kids section check out one of these interactive titles:

The Adventures of Herman the Worm

Dr. Arbor Talks Trees

The Great Plant Escape

Let's Talk About Insects

My First Garden

Exploring the Secret Life of Trees

Trees Are Terrific

A Walk in the Woods

All-Star River Explorers

Great Corn Adventure

Healthy Hopping

Animals Past & Present

Spring 2008 Garden Seminar

March 29, 2008

Join us for the Spring 2008 Garden Seminar, which will be held this year at

Illinois Valley Community College (IVCC) in Oglesby, Illinois.

The registration fee of $30.00 includes continental breakfast, lunch, handouts and much more!

Registration deadline is Friday, March 14th.

Topics for the sessions include:

Four Seasons of Bloom, Ornamental Grasses for the Garden, Emerald Ash Borer, Landscape Plants, Bonsai Trees, Composting, Landscape Roses, Landscaping, Pruning, Gardening in the Shade, Herbs, Gardening with Native Species, Tree Identification, Soils & Fertilizers, Plants for the Midwest.

Call the LaSalle County Extension for more information and to register at 815-433-0707,

or register on line at www.extension.uiuc.edu/lasalle