Four Seasons Gardening Program Continues with Fall Series

The Four Seasons Gardening program, sponsored by University of Illinois Extension, wraps up with a three-part fall series.

The first topic in the series is on Tree Maintenance. The program is offered on Sept. 15 at 1 p.m. and again on Sept. 17 at 7 p.m. The seminar focuses on proper maintenance and care to help ensure your trees will be around for years to come.

The Four Seasons Gardening program continues with a session titled, Poisonous Plants. The program is offered twice—on Sept. 29 at 1 p.m. and again on Oct. 1 at 7 p.m. Participants will learn how to identify common Illinois poisonous plants in the landscape—in order to avoid them. The seminar features a color slide presentation accompanied by the voice of the instructor as people from all over the state participate.

The Bonsai program is offered on Oct. 13 at 1 p.m. and repeated on Oct. 15 at 7 p.m. Bonsai is the art of aesthetic miniaturization of trees by growing them in containers. Participants will learn about shaping, watering and re-potting these plants in various styles of containers. The seminar includes a color slide presentation accompanied by the voice of the instructor as people from all over the state participate.

All sessions will be presented via teleconference at #60 Carlinville Plaza.

Cost per session is $ 3 per person. Advance registration is needed by telephoning the U of I Extension Macoupin County office for more details, 217-854-9604. If you have disability needs, please indicate when registering.

Trip to Southern Illinois

On Saturday, Oct. 24, the U of I Extension will sponsor a trip to Southern Illinois. The day will include stops at wineries and vineyards, a break at the Root Beer Saloon, lunch at Giant City Lodge, and a visit to Bald Knob Cross of Peace. If you are interested in this trip, contact to Extension office at 217-854-9604 by Oct. 1.

Tired of hearing about the bad economy or the latest on health care reform? Perhaps you need to take a break and do a little Spring time planning and planting in your garden with bulbs.

To maintain 4 to 6 weeks of color from tulips in the landscape next spring select several cultivated varieties (cultivars) with various flowering times. Here are a few to consider for a spring full of color:

Very early types - late March to early April

• Water lily tulips are 4-12 inches tall with pointed petals that open wide. 'Stresa' is golden yellow and red.
• Tulipa greigii has lovely green leaves with maroon markings at 6-20 inches tall. The most popular is the brilliant red 'Red Riding Hood'.
• Emperor tulips are12-15 inches tall. 'Red Emperor' is a fiery red.

Early tulips - mid April to early May

• Single early are fragrant, but you will have to bend over to reach the 10 – 18 inch tall plants. 'Couleur Cardinal' is a dark cardinal red.
• Double early tulips resemble a peony at 10-12 inches tall. 'All Gold' is a deep golden yellow.
• Tulipa praestans is 8-12 inches tall with multiple flowers per stem. 'Fusilier' is orange scarlet.

Mid season - late April to mid May

• Triumphs have sturdy stems at 18-24 inches tall in many colors including bicolors.
• Darwin hybrids have large flowers on 24 inches tall plants. Flowers come in shades of mostly red.
• Tulipa tarda has star-like yellow flowers with white edges at a mere 4-6 inches tall.

Late - mid to late May

• Darwin tulips are very popular large flowers on 24-30 inches tall plants. They come in all colors and are sturdy, resisting damage from wind and rain.
• Cottage tulips have egg-shaped mostly pastel colored flowers on 22-30 inches tall plants.
• Double late tulips are peony flowered on 8-24 inches tall, very sturdy stems. 'Angelique' is a lovely pink.
• Rembrandt tulips have streaked petals on 2 feet tall plants.
• Lily flowered have slender urn-shaped buds with long, curving petals that turn outward at the tips. The flowers are long lasting and come in varied colors.
• Parrot tulips have large fringed, ruffled petals in vibrant colors.

With some tulips successive flower shows fail to rival the first season's bloom. Public gardens often treat tulips as annuals and replace them every year. Reportedly the longer lived types include single early, species types, Darwin, Lily flowered, Fosterana and Gregii cultivars. For long-lived tulips look for ones labeled good for naturalizing.

Tulips and all the spring flowering bulbs such as crocus, daffodils and grape hyacinths should be planted in October. For best growth plant tulips 8 inches deep in masses in sunny areas with well-drained soil. Dry soil in summer will help tulip bulbs to live longer.

Tulips can be planted in ground covers such as English ivy or vinca. Plant tulips near perennials such as daylilies, hostas, asters, peonies, and fall anemones. To keep rabbits at bay, plant tulips surrounded by daffodils, grape hyacinths, or lily-of-the-valley. Since tulips rise and shine early in the season they can be planted in the back of a flower border.

Sandra Mason, U of I Extension Horticulture Educator

In today's WOW gardening, ferns are the quiet, forgotten, old-faithful plants. Today, flowers and color and architectural embellishments may be the rage. But, ferns are forever and always will be great foliage plants. In fact, foliage is all they have to offer. Basically green and functional, many think ferns don't have the new millennium look. But to quote Allan Armitage, Maybe it's time to put the brakes on the big, bold and bodacious, and examine the quiet, classic and useful.

In general, ferns tolerate partial sun/shade. If provided with ample soil moisture, some ferns have been known to tolerate full sun. Moist, well-drained garden soil that has been amended with compost or humus is ideal for most ferns. If the site is not right, the plants will show it with scorched foliage. Ferns are low maintenance plants with few pest problems. They are in fact, quiet.

Consider some of these all-time favorites for your garden areas:

Matteuccia pennsylvanica, Ostrich Fern offers 4-foot tall, ostrich plume-shaped, dark green fronds. It will grow in sun or shade but does require a moist soil. In swampy areas, it can reach up to 7 feet tall.

Athyrium nipponicum, Japanese Painted Fern does offer WOW foliage for our garden. The cultivar 'Pictum' offers us a kaleidoscope of colors on a compact plant. The unique color and texture of the fronds make it an excellent plant for the shade garden. Growing 8 to 12 inches, it offers gray/blue/green foliage on maroon stalks. 'Ghost' is a cross between lady fern and painted fern and offers a unique look.

Athyrium filix-femina, Lady Fern is a vigorous and useful plant. Although it offers only green foliage, this fern is great for difficult shady spots. Reaching 2 to 3 feet tall, it is useful as a background plant and looks good massed along a stream. The cultivar 'Victoriae,' Victoria Fern, is bigger, reaching up to 4 feet in the garden. 'Cristata,' Crested Fern, has fronds that are bunched up at the ends.

There are new hybrids in the market that are a cross between Japanese Painter Fern and Lady Fern, offering desirable qualities of both parents. Chicago Botanic Garden has trialed these hybrids and found Branford Rambler' and 'Ghost' perform well. Branford Rambler' has dark green leaves with purple rachis or midribs. It has an arching open habit and reaches 24 inches tall and 36 inches wide. 'Ghost' has attractive silver-grey leaves with maroon midribs reaching 12 to 24 inches tall and 24 inches wide with a more upright growth habit. 'Ghost' has also performed well at Missouri Botanic Gardens, earning the Plants of Merit designation.

Adiantum pedatum, Maidenhair fern, is a fine-textured fern suited for the woodland setting or shaded rock garden. In evenly moist soil, it reaches heights of 12 to 18 inches. The green horseshoe-arranged foliage is borne on shiny brownish-black stalks.

Martha Smith, U of I Extension horticulture educator

A picture-perfect lawn also means an increased chance of lawn problems. Most homeowners will consider no problem worse than lawn grubs.

Several grubs infest turfgrass, though the annual white grubs and Japanese beetle grubs are the most serious. Other grubs include the true grub and Ataenius grub. True grubs have a three-year lifecycle and can be found throughout the year. Turf damage is minimal due to low grub numbers. Ataenius grub damage usually occurs at the end of June through July. Damage is seldom severe in central Illinois due to low insect populations. Ten years ago, Japanese beetle grubs were not common. However, in the last decade, as the beetles have become more common, so have their grubs.

Grubs are the larval stage of beetles. Most grubs are C-shaped and white with a dark brown head and gray rear end. The adult form of the annual white grub is one of those brown, non-descript beetles that hovers around lights during June and early July. Japanese beetle adults are metallic green with copper wings.

Beetles mate in June, and the female lays her eggs in early July. Eggs hatch one month later. Weather conditions can delay the mating and egg laying. Females prefer a pure stand of turfgrass compared to weedy, bare area. Moist soils, common this year, are more conducive to egg laying and hatching.

Grubs feed on turfgrass roots. Plants wilt and die due to the lack of water. Dead areas, still matted by underground stems, can be rolled up like carpet. If grass plants come up in tufts, suspect diseases or sod webworms.

Most lawns can tolerate 12 to 14 grubs per square foot, provided the grass is actively growing. However, most lawns in August and early September are in need of fertilizing and cooler growing conditions. Two to four grubs per square foot may warrant treatment on dormant or slow growing lawns.

The only way to determine a grub problem is to examine the turfgrass's root system. Most grubs will be located in the area between dead patches and green turf.

Many chemicals are available for grub control. The Macoupin County Extension office has the current recommendations. Granular applications tend to provide better control than liquid formulations. Make sure the chemical is watered into the grass's root zone. A fourth to half inch of water should be sufficient.

Grub applications should be applied before the middle of September. As grubs mature, chemical control is lowered.

Make sure to read and follow all application and safety information on labels.

David Robson, U of I Extension horticulture educator

Yard waste can be turned into compost which can be used to enrich our gardens. There are certain things that are necessary for composting to occur: sources of both carbon and nitrogen, microorganisms to break the material down, the proper surface area, moisture, air and a proper volume of material.

The composting process is carried out by micro-organisms that live in the soil and on organic matter. These micro-organisms need both nitrogen and carbon. By mixing different types of yard wastes, we can achieve the optimum balance of these two elements, thus speeding the composting process.

There are many carbon sources to be found in the yard. Materials like wood chips, dried leaves, corn stalks, straw, sawdust and twigs are good carbon sources. There are also many nitrogen sources to be found in the average yard. Grass clippings are probably the most abundant source of nitrogen, due to the sheer volume of clippings produced during the average growing season. Other sources include fruit and vegetable wastes, fresh weeds, waste from the flower garden, manure and coffee grounds.

It's not difficult to get the right mixture of carbon and nitrogen. Simply mixing equal volumes of carbon sources and nitrogen sources gives a good balance.

There are micro-organisms (bacteria and fungi) involved in the composting process. These organisms are naturally present in the soil and on organic matter, so we do not need to worry about adding them to the pile. Although bacteria are the primary decomposers, fungi also play a role in the compost pile. It is not unusual to see mushrooms (fungi) in a compost pile. Be prepared to find a wide range of other 'critters' in the compost pile. The other residents of the pile may include mites, worms, beetles, ants and earwigs. This is normal and should not cause undue concern.

The micro-organisms that decompose yard waste, work on the surface of that yard waste. Chopping or shredding the yard waste into smaller pieces will increase surface area. There are many ways to increase surface area: cutting up branches with pruners or a saw; shredding leaves in a leaf shredder or with a lawn mower, etc.

The compost pile should be as moist as a wrung out sponge. If the pile is too wet, air will be forced out of the pile. Decomposition will continue, but it will be anaerobic decomposition. In anaerobic decomposition, the yard waste becomes slimy and produces unpleasant odors.

Usually rainfall can keep the pile moist enough, but during the heat of summer, you may find that you need to add water to the pile. Be careful not to overdo it. If excessive rainfall is predicted, you may want to cover the pile with a tarp to prevent the pile from becoming too wet. If it does become too wet, you can help dry it out by turning the pile to add air to it or by adding dry yard wastes to help soak up some of the moisture.

The size of the compost pile can be important. If it is too small, it will not heat up and compost properly. The minimum size for the pile should be 3 feet wide by 3 feet high by 3 feet long.

Finished compost looks like a rich organic soil. The time it takes to get to this stage will depend on how aggressively you work the pile. If you put the pile together and let nature do all the work , it may take a year or more. If you work to make conditions optimum (correct moisture, increased surface area, turning the pile), you could have compost in as little as 4 to 6 weeks.

Duane Friend, U of I Extension natural resources management educator

As fall approaches, many homeowners with fruit trees would like to know when to pick their apples and pears.

Apples and pears tend to have different maturity indicators that will help the backyard orchardist know when fruits are mature. Fruits tend to mature based on weather conditions and where they are grown in the state. Fruit maturity is late in northern parts of the state compared to the central and southern parts.

For apples, the time to pick is when the fruit is fully mature but before it becomes overripe.

When to pick apples can also be determined by the time elapsed between full blooms and when it is picked, changes in ground color or flesh, and ease of separation of the fruit from the spur, he said. The maturity indicators for apples are color, ease of separation, fruit drop, and softness and flavor.

Color both outside and beneath the skin is a very important indicator of maturity. In varieties of apples that are yellow, when green gives way to yellow, then it is mature. The change of flesh color from green to white is also a sign of maturity in apples.

Ease of separation from the spur usually occurs in mature apples, he noted. When testing if the apple fruit is mature, do not pull it down but twist it upwards with a rotating motion. Dropping of good fruit from the tree is a signal that the fruits on the tree are mature.

When apple fruits become softer and taste sweet and juicy, this indicates maturity, although there are some varieties that become sweeter in storage such as the Delicious.

Pears, however, are picked before they are ripe and continue to ripen in storage. Mature pear fruit detaches from the fruit stem when held at a horizontal position from the usual vertical hanging position.

However, some varieties such as Bosc are hard to separate from the spur. Pears picked when the fruit is mature and starting to ripen will ripen better in storage.

It is also very important to know the usual period of maturity for each variety.

Color and size of the fruit are important factors to determine pear fruit maturity. The yellow pear varieties, such as Bartlett, D'Anjou, and Comice, show a change in skin color to a lighter shade of green at maturity.

The flesh becomes whiter, and juice will ooze on a cut surface, he noted. When pear fruits are mature, they should be at least two inches in diameter at the widest portion of the fruit except fruits from the Seckel variety.

The larger fruits are mature so it is advisable to start picking larger fruits first and then smaller ones when they have reached the right size.

Fruits that are not going to be used immediately should be stored. Separate bruised and damaged fruits and store those that are in good condition. Store apples and pears in well-ventilated containers immediately after they are picked. The storage temperature should be 30 to 32 degrees F in a humid environment.

Do not store fruits with onions, potatoes, or other strong-smelling vegetables and herbs, as the fruits will absorb the flavors, Ogutu said. Inspect the fruits regularly and remove the ones with excessive ripening, mold, freezing, or flesh breakdown.

Check storage temperatures to ensure that fruits are not frozen, particularly apples. Partly frozen pears can be thawed and still maintain their quality, but freezing usually ruins apples.

Ripen pears before they are ready for consumption, he added. The storage lives of apples and pears vary according to variety, storage temperature, and relative humidity.

Maurice Ogutu, U of I Extension educator

If you have been fortunate enough to have zucchini in your garden, you probably have more than you need or you have found a squash hiding until it is too big for eating as a vegetable..

Summer squash that are past their prime for sautéing can be used for baking tasty treats. You can even freeze some of it for winter baking. Choose squash that are free of cracks and blemishes. While they can be larger than the 6 to 8-inch sautéing size, do not pick ones that are huge— they will be tough and bitter.

Wash the squash, and cut off the ends. Then all you need to do is grate them. Check your favorite recipes calling for grated zucchini, and package your grated squash into recipe-size portions and freeze them. Then, when it is time to make zucchini bread or muffins, all you need to do is thaw, drain, and use them.

Here is a lower fat version of the traditional zucchini bread. It is great served as a snack or as a dessert!

Zucchini Bread

• 1 cup whole wheat flour
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 cup egg substitute (or 3 egg whites)
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/3 cup vegetable oil
• 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla
• 2 cups coarsely grated zucchini, lightly packed into measuring cup

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Grease a 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pan. Mix together the flours, baking powder, cinnamon, baking soda and salt in a medium-sized bowl. Beat together the egg substitute, sugar, oil and vanilla for 3 minutes. Stir in zucchini, and mix lightly. Add dry ingredients and mix just until moistened. Pour into loaf pan. Bake 40 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool on rack, and remove from pan after 10 minutes. Cut into 18 ½-inch thick slices.

Nutrition information per slice: 97 calories, 38 calories from fat, 4 grams fat, 13 grams carbohydrate, 2 grams protein, 1 gram fiber, 0 cholesterol, 92 milligrams sodium.

Shirley Camp, U of I Extension horticulture educator

Houseplants that have been outside during the summer should be inspected carefully for insects and other pests before bringing them indoors.

Houseplants spending the warmer months outside frequently attract a variety of pests. While the plant is outdoors, these pests rarely become a major problem because their numbers are kept low by predatory insects and other animals that eat them and by rainstorms that wash them off of the plant.

Once moved indoors, these pests no longer have their natural enemies and weather problems, so frequently become major problems.

Spider mites are the most common pests brought indoors. These tiny relatives of spiders suck the juices out of the leaves, causing them to turn bronzy and die. They spin fine webbing across leaves and between the leaf and stem; they appear as specks crawling through the webbing or on the leaf underside. Spider mites may be numerous outdoors, but other insects and mites keep them in check by feeding on the harmful mites.

Aphids are soft-bodied insects the size of pinheads that are frequently brought in with your plants. They are commonly green but may be any color. They and their close relatives, the mealybugs, are found on stems and leaves where they feed on plant sap. Mealybugs are about 1/8 of an inch long and are covered with white, waxy strands that make them look like tiny balls of cotton.

Spraying the plant with an insecticidal soap or some pesticides can eliminate spider mites, aphids and mealybugs.

When using these pesticides, take the plant outdoors to spray it if possible. Whether you use these pesticides or the insecticidal soap, treat the plant weekly for at least three weeks. Particularly severe mealybug infestations may require treatments over a two or three month period.

Keep plants separated to avoid spreading insect problems between plants. Segregate plants for at least two months.

Severe insect problems may not be noticeable until furnaces are turned on and the air starts drying.

David Robson, U of I Extension horticulture educator

Fall is the perfect time to get the yard back in shape before cold weather sets in. Gardeners will see their fall efforts generously rewarded and can look forward to a better-looking garden in the spring.

Fall is a great time to refresh the lawn by reseeding smaller patches and sodding larger areas that need quick cover, he noted. The typical varieties of grass for full sun areas are bluegrass and actually prefer cooler temperatures to develop.

Do not wait too long for the first mowing, either. Grass thickens up because we start mowing just as soon as it needs it.

If you face perennial broadleaf weeds like dandelions, fall is the best time to make treatments. At this time of the year, the broadleaf weeds are moving nutrients into the root system for the fall and any treatments made are more likely to move in that direction, too, controlling the weed at the source. Managing your weeds in the fall means they will not be there next spring.

If your lawn is in good shape, then a fall fertilizer application using a well-balanced fertilizer is all you may need. Mid-September is about the right time, leaving plenty of time for the grass to absorb the nutrients and still have time to prepare for the upcoming fall temperatures and snow cover.

Fall is also a great time to increase water penetration and reduce compaction if your lawn is in need of aeration. Core aeration machines are the best type and normally can be rented locally. Consider getting your neighbors involved and the cost goes way down.

Edging flower and shrub beds in the fall accomplishes two things at once. Your grass has grown in during the spring and summer, so your beds get back to the right size and, secondly, you will start out next spring ahead of the game with a nice clean edge, he said. This takes the early spring pressure away from that task so you can concentrate on other aspects of the landscape.

Homeowners that have had woody plants die over the summer from insects, disease, and the impacts of the past two summers from drought periods can plant trees and shrubs in the fall. Nurseries and garden centers will have freshly-dug trees and shrubs available in the sizes and flower colors of your choice.

Some plants are of a more seasonal nature, so be sure to ask which plants do better if planted in the spring. Plan ahead and leave the space open for next spring. Nurseries and garden centers will also have container-grown plants available during this time as well.

Research is revealing that the recovery time for a plant is directly related to how well the planting hole and the backfill material are prepared. Shape the planting hole so that it is much wider at the top than at the bottom. This allows the portion of the root system that takes up nutrients and water to quickly recover. The backfill material can be amended to increase water-holding capacity and ensure good drainage.

Roots actually require air in the soil to grow properly. A general rule of thumb for recovery is one year for every inch of trunk diameter. If you plant a tree that has a 2.5-inch trunk, it will take at least three years before it fully recovers from being planted in your yard. Most trees will also benefit from having the trunk wrapped that first fall, too. Apply the wrap once the weather turns cold and plan on removal by mid-summer.

Mulching newly-planted trees and shrubs will moderate the soil temperatures by keeping the soil warmer longer, allowing the root system to continue to grow and develop well into the late fall and early fall. Having a mulch layer also will keep the soil colder longer in the spring and avoid the potential rapid soil temperature changes in the spring that can be harmful. To be effective, the mulch layer needs to be three-to-four inches deep when it has settled.

Planting fall mums is a great way to see a lot of fall color in the garden. Get them planted early so they have a chance to develop roots into the surrounding soil so they can survive the fall, he said. Plant them as you would any other perennial flower. Gardeners who have planted pansies in the spring will see them again as the cooler weather triggers blooming.

Gardeners may need to clean up perennials by removing any browning or dead foliage. Removing any spent flower parts will also make those flower beds look a lot better.

While you are out there, the summer bulbs may be ready to be dug and prepared for fall storage, he noted. If you have noticed your spring bulbs are no longer blooming as they should because of overcrowding, late summer is the time to dig and reset those bulbs.

Watering should continue well into the fall. Plants will look better as a result right up until frost. Plants that have enough internal moisture once fall comes will survive much better. New plantings will certainly need that water.

Richard Hentschel, U of I Extension horticulture specialist

You can beat the frost and save your geraniums by taking them inside to overwinter..

As soon as we get freezing temperatures, most unprotected annual geraniums will turn a mushy green and die. However, it's possible to take those geraniums before they get nipped by a hard frost and overwinter them indoors.

You can pot up the plants, take cuttings, or store the plants as bare root specimens. No matter what method you choose, understand that success isn't guaranteed. The headaches and heartaches may not be worth it, especially since geraniums can easily be purchased every spring.

It is important to make sure the plants you attempt to overwinter are vigorous, healthy, and insect and disease free.

If you grew your geraniums in individual pots for the summer, you probably don't have much to do except examine each plant carefully to make sure you're not bringing insects indoors, he said. White flies, aphids, and mealy bugs can hide on a plant. Outdoors, they don't cause many problems as there are predators to keep them in check. Indoors, though, those predators aren't around.

Make sure to check the soil to avoid bringing in other hitchhikers. Some gardeners will always re-pot the geranium in fresh houseplant soil. That might be a little unnecessary, though it practically guarantees no soil-born insects are brought indoors.

For plants in larger pots or in the ground, carefully dig the geranium and plant in a six or eight inch pot. Use potting soil instead of garden soil to avoid a soggy, heavy soil indoors. Prune back each plant by one-half.

Geraniums need at least 10 to 12 hours of light indoors ideally. Place the plants in a bright south window or under fluorescent lights.

Indoor temperatures are just as important. Geraniums, by nature, are more of an arid plant; they prefer warm—65 to 70 degrees F—day temperatures and cool night temperatures of 55 to 60 degrees F. Excessively warm temperatures may result in leggy plants.

Using the cutting approach allows using smaller plants that take up less space, and have a better chance of acclimating to indoor light, temperature, and humidity levels.

Take four to six inches of terminal growth and strip off the bottom two to three inches of leaves, Robson said. Dip each cutting in a rooting hormone. Stick the cuttings in sand, perlite or vermiculite up to the first set of leaves. Water thoroughly and place in a bright sunny window or under fluorescent lights. Cuttings should root in one or two months. When rooted, pot in a three or four inch pot and continue to grow until spring.

The bare root approach is by far the easiest but also the least successful. It involves digging the geraniums up, shaking most of the soil from the roots, and hanging upside down in a cool basement or dry crawl space where temperatures hover around 45 to 50 degrees F.

Once a month, soak the roots for an hour or two in warm water. Expect that leaves will probably turn brown, dry up and fall off. If all goes well, though, stems should remain green.

In March, cut each plant back by half or to green, fleshy, solid stems. Pot each plant up and water thoroughly, placing the geraniums in a bright, sunny window. Plants should start budding out, sending out new shoots, and developing into attractive plants that can be set outside in May.

David Robson, U of I Extension horticulture educator