Anyone familiar with gardening and the outdoors appreciates the color and vibrancy fall brings to the garden and landscape, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

"When selecting plants for fall beauty, people often look at fall foliage color," said Matt Kostelnick. "Indeed, leaf color adds to the character of the landscape and season. However, there are other exciting sources of fall color and beauty beyond leaf color, including fruits—typically berries."

Berries and other fruits on shrubs come in many different shapes, colors, and sizes. They often appear on shrubs after blooming in mid- to late summer and remain on the shrubs through fall and sometimes into winter.

"Some berries are quite showy, and others are hardly noticeable," he said. "In some cases, the berries disappear before you ever get to enjoy them due to birds eating them quickly.

"Birds and other wildlife benefit from the berries as an important source of food, particularly in the fall."

A potential tradeoff of shrubs that produce attractive berries for fall--as opposed to those that don't--is the sacrifice of larger, more ostentatious blooms in spring and summer.

Shrubs in the genus Viburnum are very common in Illinois and make a great addition to a landscape. Viburnums are highly desirable in a landscape because they have attractive foliage, blooms, fruits, and are relatively easy to grow in most gardens. There are about 225 species of Viburnums.

"This wide variety of Viburnum species provides ample latitude in finding the perfect one for you,"Kostelnick said. "Viburnums bloom in spring and produce fruit in late summer. This fruit can remain on the shrub well into fall, but can also be picked by humans or birds for consumption.

"Fruits on Viburnums are typically red to blue-black in color. Viburnums to consider for fall fruit include: Viburnum dentatum (Arrowwood Viburnum), Viburnum lantana (Wayfaring tree Viburnum), Viburnum trilobum (American Cranberrybush Viburnum), and Viburnum dilatatum (Linden Viburnum). "

Common Winterberry (Ilex verticillata), as the name implies, is great for fall/winter berries. Winterberry is in the genus Ilex (which includes Hollies) and is typically planted in masses or as a screen.

"Winterberry develops red berries in late summer/early fall that stay on well into winter," he said. "With Ilex species, berries are produced on female plants. In order to get berries, male plants are necessary to pollinate the female plants."

For different colors of berries, consider the following cultivars: for orange fruit 'Aurantiaca'; for yellow fruit 'Chrysocarpa'; for red fruit, 'Cacopon', 'Fairfax', Shaver', and 'Winter Red'. A very close relative of Winterberry is Possum Haw (Ilex deciduas). Possom Haw can tolerate a wide variety of soil conditions and planting sites. For lots of bright red berries, consider the cultivar 'Warren's Red' or 'Byer's Golden' for yellow fruit. For Hollies, consider the Meserve Hybrid Holly (Ilex x meserveae), an evergreen holly that is cold hardy for Illinois. The Meserve Hybrid Hollies have numerous cultivars to choose from.

Dogwoods (genus Cornus), another very common ornamental shrub in Illinois, offers a wide variety of autumn and winter beauty. Dogwoods offer a variety of beauty in their leaves, flowers, fruits, and stems. Pagoda Dogwood (Cornus alternifolia) is an easy Dogwood to grow that produces bluish-black fruit on red stalks. Note, however, that birds snatch the fruit quickly.

"If you've had shrubs with berries but the birds seem to eat them before you get to enjoy them, consider Chokeberry shrubs (genus Aronia)," he recommended." Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa) is a shrub that can get three to six feet in height, tolerates most soils and conditions, and produces larger, attractive purplish-black fruit in late summer that remains in the fall with red fall foliage.

"Black Chokeberry cultivars to consider include: 'Autumn Magic' and the compact 'Morton'. For red-colored berries, consider Red Chokeberry cultivar 'Brilliantissima' for larger fruit.

"If you've got some space and want to try something a little different, you might consider Staghorn Sumac (Rhus typhina) in your landscape," he said. "These can grow up to 25 feet in height and width. These shrubs have very unique foliage and fruit that will definitely stand out.

"Fall foliage can vary from yellow to orange to red. The interesting-looking, furry fruit develops on female plants in summer and remains until winter and possibly into spring."

Male and female plants are needed in order to produce fruit. Two common cultivars are 'Dissecta' and 'Laciniata'. Smooth Sumac (Rhus glabra) offers purple color in the foliage in fall.

Not to be left out, roses can also produce very colorful and vibrant fruit as well in the form of 'hips'. Rugosa Roses (Rosa rugosa) are excellent for this purpose and are one of the most trouble-free roses for the garden. Rugosa roses have a very unique, leathery texture to their leaves, a number of cultivars are resistant to Black Spot and Powdery Mildew, and they can tolerate a variety of conditions, including salt and harsh winters.

"After blooming, Rugosa roses leave behind lovely orange-red 'hips' that are edible," he said. "Colors are vibrant and definitely add some excitement after blooming. Cultivars highly resistant to common rose diseases include: 'Alboplena', 'Frau Dragmar Hastrup', and 'Hansa'. Also consider Redleaf Rose (Rosa glauca) for colorful 'hips' and foliage."

If you want to save those glorious summer flowering bulbs, it is important to have a good winter storage site, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

"Throughout Central Illinois, our growing climate withstands winter temperatures of -10 to -20 degrees Fahrenheit," explained Martha Smith. "This puts us in Zone 5 on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Horticultural plants planted in our area are able to survive these winter extremes.

"Unfortunately, many of the glorious summer flowering bulbs such as gladiolus, cannas, dahlia and tuberous begonia cannot survive here. In order for us to enjoy their splendor, extra attention and care in the fall is needed. They need to be dug up and stored. Our winter soil temperatures are too cold, and summer flowering bulbs left in the ground won't survive."

Among the options for winter storage, a garage attached to your home or a deep cellar will keep the temperatures between 35-40 degrees F. This is critical if the bulbs are to survive. At warmer temperatures, the bulbs may begin to sprout or rot. At colder temperatures, they can freeze. Before storing, check all bulbs and discard any diseased or damaged ones.

"Cannas should be cut back within two to three inches of the soil after the first frost," she said. "Dig the tuberous roots with a spading fork, taking care not to damage the fleshy root systems. Place them in a frost-free location, allowing them to dry out. This may take several weeks. Bulbs are sufficiently dried when the stem easily breaks away from the roots. Cannas do not require covering in the winter. Often they are laid upside down in flats of dried peat moss."

Tuberous begonias should be dug when the leaves turn yellow in the late summer or early fall. Cut tops back to within a couple of inches of the tubers. Dry in a warm location for two to three weeks. Store tubers between two-to-three-inch thick layers of vermiculite, peat moss, sawdust or wood shavings.

"Check tubers throughout winter. If shriveling occurs, lightly moisten packing material. If roots appear, move to a cooler, drier location," said Smith.

After a light frost, dahlias should be cut back to four to six inches above the soil.

"Choose a sunny day when the soil is not too wet or too dry," she said. "Lift the tubers with a long-tined fork. Insert it one foot away from the bush on all sides. Then gently pry up the clump so the tubers will not be ripped off.

"Shake most of the soil off and leave them in the sun for several hours to dry."

Do not allow the tubers to freeze, she added. If still damp, you can lay them on screens in a protected area for a day. Leave undivided, packing them carefully in flats, boxes or bushel baskets and cover them with vermiculite, peat moss, sawdust or wood shavings.

"Check dahlia tubers throughout the winter," said Smith. "If shriveling occurs, moisten packing material lightly. Do not let tubers completely dry out."

Gladiolus corms should be dug after the foliage has matured and started turning brown, generally six to eight weeks after flowering.

"This gives the plant time to produce food and build a corm for next year," she explained.

Lift the corms with a spade or spading fork, taking care not to cut into the corm. Cut the tops one inch above the corms. Remove all dirt from the corm and dry for two to four weeks in a warm (70-80 degrees F) location with good air circulation.

After curing, remove the old corm (which is beneath the new one) by breaking it off. Place the corms in an onion sack, old nylon panty hose, or similar container with good ventilation. Hang from a wall or ceiling in storage area.

"Don't confuse these types of bulbs with the spring flowering tulips, daffodils and crocus," she warned. "These spring bloomers stay in the ground all year. Summer bloomers may need more attention, but you will be rewarded all summer long."

Fall is often a better time to prepare flower beds for new crops than the spring, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

"The weather is better, organic material is available in the form of tree leaves, and the soil is not frozen or too wet to till like it will be in the spring," said Jeff Rugg.

"For many people, the weekends of the fall season are taken up with football, kid's soccer games, or other activities that don't allow you to even think of your landscape, but this is a great time of year to work outside. If you can't get out much, try to take some photos or video of your landscape in the fall to see how you like it and what to change when the garden catalogs arrive in the winter. Many great landscape ideas can be found in Botanic Gardens during the fall."

The first thing to do is to analyze the success of this year's annuals, perennials and vegetables, Rugg recommended.

"Why did they do well or why did they do poorly? Was there a problem with the weather, soil, sun light or watering? Was the plant adapted for that kind of growing condition? For this year, did you find the time to do normal maintenance chores like pruning, fertilizing, dead heading or watering? Did you take pictures of the bed when it was doing well and when it was looking its worst?

Now decide how many of the problems you can fix this fall," he said. "Can you change the drainage or soil texture by adding organic matter? Can you add some top soil to change the angle of the bed so water flows better? Can you add some timbers around the bed to raise the whole thing by adding more soil?"

As you can see, there is a lot to think about. It may be time to start the whole bed over again, or it may just need a few plants moved to better locations that fit their requirements better.

"It is useful to know which plants are just going dormant and which ones are dying, before you start yanking out the plants," he noted. "Many good plants have disappeared from landscapes because someone mistakenly pulled out plants that were going dormant, not dying."

Once you have an area of bed cleared of plants, you can begin preparations for the next crop.

"Using your analysis, you may decide to add organic matter to the soil," he said. "Mix it into the bed at least six inches deep for annuals and a foot deep for perennials. Deeper beds allow the plants to grow more roots, which means they will have more access to water and therefore need less watering. In the north, you can leave the soil roughly tilled, so frost action can break it down and kill any insects.

"Cover the bed with mulch. Add two or three inches of mulch over the tops of perennials after they are completely dormant."

If there are annuals in the bed, they are going to die as winter weather and less sunlight comes. As they start to look bad, it is best to remove as much of the plant as possible.

"If a bunch of roots come up with the soil, toss the whole thing," said Rugg. "Don't spend a lot of time trying to get the roots unless the plant died of root rot. Then, you should remove the roots and some extra soil too. It the plant was not diseased, throw the whole thing in the compost pile. If it was diseased, send it to the professional compost site if your city has one as part of your trash pick-up program."

In warm southern climates, you can replace summer annuals with winter annuals that like cooler weather. Pansies, mums and kale are all good cool season crops that can last for many weeks in the fall and may even bloom again in the spring, even in the northern states. Be careful to keep them watered. Many people forget to water plants in the fall, because it is not warm enough to make it seem like they need it.

Whether or not you replant annual flower beds, you may also want to apply a pre-emergent weed killer to stop weed seeds from germinating during the winter or early spring.

"If you have perennials in the bed, they too are going to die back this fall," he said. "Some will die completely to the ground, leaving only a few dead leaves and withered flower stalks. Others will only die partially, leaving green leaves and maybe even green flowering stalks with a few left over flowers.

"Perennials can be cut back piece by piece as they die back (even in May or June for early bloomers) or they can be cut back all at once, even if they are still somewhat alive late in the fall. Perennials that have seeds growing on the top of the old flower stalks can be left until spring, so that birds can eat the seeds over the winter."

After the first frost, northern gardeners will need to dig up summer flowering bulbs like cannas, dahlias and gladiolus. Wash off the soil, sprinkle on a little fungicide and let them dry. Store them in a loose bag in a dry, cool, dark place until spring. If the location is too warm, they will shrivel up and if it is too moist, they will rot.

Northern gardeners will plant spring flowering bulbs in the garden after the first frost. Create well-loosened beds with lots of organic matter. If you have problems with rodents, try planting the bulbs in a loose pillow shaped "bag" made from chicken wire.

"For all gardeners, many perennials can be divided and replanted as they go dormant," Rugg noted. "Re-work the bed and add some organic matter if the bed needs it. Don't be afraid to dig them up, cut them apart and move them to new locations. It is easier to see where they should go now than in the spring before everything starts growing."

If the plants have been blooming well for several years, but did not do so this year, they are good candidates for dividing. Use a shovel, trowel and knife to decide where to dig and cut the plant in half or quarters. If possible, leave half of the plant in the ground undisturbed. Fill in the left over hole with good soil and organic matter so the remaining plant can expand.

"Move the cut out portion to a new location that is also fixed up with good soil," Rugg said. "Or, it can be potted up and given away. If it is potted, it can be buried in the ground and mulched over for winter protection and then pulled up and sold or given away in the spring."

When the topic of fall flowers comes up, most people tend to think of chrysanthemums first. An equally beautiful choice for the fall garden, but one which is often overlooked is the aster, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

"The name aster comes from the ancient Greek word astron, meaning "star", referring to the shape of the plant's flowers," explained Jennifer Schultz Nelson. Asters come in a wide range of flower sizes and colors, but have the same basic structure. Other than their distinct star shape, they vaguely resemble daisies, one of their cousins. What we commonly call the flower is actually a grouping of hundreds of tiny flowers, or florets.

"The overall size of an aster plant ranges from six inches to eight feet tall, depending on the species and cultivar. Most cultivars for home gardens are in the six inch to three feet tall range, she said..

"Asters are split into two main groups, the New York and New England types. New York types tend to be shorter than about a foot, and New England types are generally taller."

Aster leaves are very long and narrow, and sometimes are a bit hairy. The plants themselves occasionally become leggy and flop over during the growing season. Pinching or shearing back periodically through midsummer will help encourage branching and bushy compact growth.

"Most asters are grown for their fall blooms, but depending on the species, some bloom in the summer," she explained. "One such plant is Frikart's Aster (Aster x frikartii) a selection made from a cross of Aster amellus x Aster thomsonii. The original cross was made in Switzerland in the 1920's, and from it the cultivars 'Monch' and 'Wonder of Stafa' were selected.

"Frikart's Asters are easy to grow, and hardy in Illinois. Hardiness is increased with winter mulching, and waiting to cut the plant back until spring."

Asters prefer well-drained soil in full sun. Once established, they will tolerate drought to some degree. They are susceptible to several fungal diseases if there is too much moisture present, including root rots.

Asters are one of the many plants susceptible to aster yellows, a disease caused by a tiny organism called a mycoplasma which is spread from plant to plant by leafhopper insect feeding. In general, affected plants appear yellow, and new growth is stunted and distorted. If plants are infected, they must be discarded to reduce risk of it spreading to other plants. There is no treatment and no cure.

"Another great reason to grow asters is they are butterfly magnets," Nelson said. "In the late summer and early fall, it is not uncommon to find multiple butterfly species enjoying the nectar of asters in the garden. The flowers are beautiful, and they attract butterflies- in my opinion, these are two great reasons to try asters in your fall garden this year."

With the first frost just around the corner, many people harvest and store their produce for later use. Many fruits and vegetables can be canned, pickled, dried or frozen. Another option is to store them fresh. Consider this information.

• Tomatoes are very sensitive to freezing. They should be covered with tarps or blankets during a light frost. When weather permanently turns cold, fruits should be picked, and then allowed to ripen indoors. Fruits should be light green or have some hint of red. Tomatoes picked too green may rot. Temperatures near 70 F are ideal for faster ripening, but temperatures near 55 F will delay ripening for up to a month. Tomatoes stored below this temperature will develop a bland or off flavor.

Additionally, stored tomatoes may shrivel in low humidity before ripening. To prevent this, place a layer of fruit in a box and cover it with wax paper. Another layer can be placed on top of the first and covered with more wax paper. Place the lid on the box when finished. Another option is to wrap each tomato individually. Remove tomatoes as they ripen. Placing a banana in the box and allowing it to ripen in proximity to the tomatoes may also speed ripening.

• Winter squash are another vegetable commonly stored. They are ripe when the skins develop an apparent waxy coating and cannot be damaged easily by scratching the outer skin with a fingernail. However, unless you are going to immediately consume the squash, fruit should be left attached until the vines have mostly been killed by frost. Leave some stem on the fruit when it is picked. Store winter squash at temperatures ranging from 50 to 60 F at relatively low humidity.

• Onions should be harvested when the tops start to fall over. They should be lifted from the ground and stored in a well-ventilated area. When the necks turn brown and they "rustle when disturbed," they are ready to be stored. Shelf life is maximized when the bulbs are stored at low humidity and near freezing. Many factors influence shelf life including variety and whether the bulbs were grown from seeds or sets. Bulbs should be checked periodically.

• Potatoes are another crop commonly stored for later use. They should be harvested after the vines start to die. Cure potatoes at 50 to 60 F at relatively high humidity for two weeks. After this, store tubers near 50 F. Lower temperatures may cause an off flavor to develop. Warmer temperatures are acceptable, but will decrease storage life.

• Other crops such as apples, pears, cabbage, celery, carrots and parsnips can be stored for an extended period of time. The following fact sheets can be accessed online, and both provide useful information. For a brief overview, Colorado State University has an excellent fact sheet that can be accessed at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/Pubs/Garden/07601.html.

Here is a recipe that uses the end of the season vegetables to make a Fall Garden Relish. This recipe is designed to be preserved but you can cut the recipe in half to be used for a fresh recipe at your next potluck or family dinner.

Fall Garden Relish

• 1 quart chopped cabbage (about 1 small head)
• 3 cups chopped cauliflower (about 1 medium head)
• 2 cups chopped green tomatoes (about 4 medium)
• 2 cups chopped onions
• 2 cups chopped sweet green peppers (about 4 medium)
• 1 cup chopped sweet red peppers (about 2 medium)
• 3 ¾ cups vinegar (5%)
• 3 tablespoons salt
• 2 ¾ cups sugar
• 3 teaspoons celery seed
• 3 teaspoons dry mustard
• 1 ½ teaspoons turmeric

Combine chopped vegetables; sprinkle with the 3 tablespoons salt. Let stand 4 to 6 hours in a cool place. Drain well. Combine vinegar, sugar and spices, simmer 10 minutes. Add vegetables; simmer 10 minutes. Bring to a boil. Pack boiling hot relish into hot jars, leaving ½ inch headspace. Remove air bubbles, Wipe jar rims. Adjust lids. Process 10 minutes in a Boiling Water Bath.

Ginseng (Panax quinquefolium) is known as an unassuming, ordinary plant that inconspicuously grows in the wooded hills and stream areas of Illinois. This herbaceous perennial has been sought after and dug since the times of Daniel Boone, who was himself a ginseng exporter.

Demand is strong for this medicinal herb in Asian markets and in growing U.S. herbal markets, says Tony Bratsch, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator. Because of its popularity and value, native ginseng populations have dwindled due to over-harvesting. Wild ginseng hunting is still allowed in Illinois but is regulated by the Department of Natural Resources, with stipulations on hunting season and age of plants that can be legally harvested. Log onto the IDNR website for details: http://dnr.state.il.us/.

Ginseng has long been grown in high- to low-management settings. A low-management method gaining attention is "wild-simulated" production. Bratsch says this method is a simple one and begins by planting in the late fall, usually from late October through early December.

Commercial ginseng production involves raised bed culture, artificial shade, commercial fertilizers and irrigation. The resulting carrot-like quality and large size gained from this pampering brings a much lower market price compared to wild, native root. Whereas a well-cultured root brings $15 to $30 per pound dried, its wild, gnarled counterpart or wild-simulated grown root will bring $500 to $1,000 per pound, depending on current market.

"Wild-simulated production fits many woodlot environments," says Bratsch. "When compared to other specialty crops, wild-simulated ginseng is grown with minimum cost and labor input. For those who want to put idle timber acreage to good use, this system of ginseng growing represents a potential long-term income opportunity."

For information on how to start a ginseng planting, ask for the October issue of The Green Thumb, available from your local U of I Extension office or online at http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/regions/newsletters. Or, contact Bratsch directly at the Effingham Extension Center, 217-347-5126.

Sweet potatoes are one of the most nutritionally complete foods grown. A natural choice for meals during the holiday season, they are one of the few vegetables that serve dual purpose as either a vegetable dish or a dessert.

Sweet potatoes develop their swollen, fleshy roots toward summer's end and into the fall. Roots can be harvested anytime after they begin to size, but they can also be left in the soil until the first light frost to maximize yield. Since they are a tropical plant, the first frost will kill most of the leaves. Although frost will not harm the roots, they should be dug promptly before cold temperatures and cold, wet soils affect them.

Tony Bratsch, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator, offers the following advice for harvesting and storing sweet potatoes.

Roots bruise easily, so care should be taken during digging. After harvest, carefully rub off any soil that clings to the roots and let them dry on the soil surface for a few hours in the sun. Do not leave the potatoes outdoors overnight.

Any sweet potatoes that are cut or bruised during digging should be separated from the others and eaten first. They will exude a milky juice if damaged, but this does not seal the wound or protect against rot-producing bacteria and fungi.

For best storage, sweet potatoes should be cured after the brief sun drying. Curing helps heal light surface wounds and toughens the skin. Curing is done by placing the sweet potatoes in a steady temperature of 80 to 85 degrees, for a week to ten days. A small, heated outdoor shed or furnace room can serve this purpose. A loose covering of plastic can help maintain humidity during that period. If kept too warm at low humidity, the roots will begin to shrivel and lose quality.

After curing, the sweet potatoes can be stored for the winter in crates or baskets. Store them in a location where temperatures stay 55 to 60 degrees, with high humidity of 80 to 85 percent to keep roots from shriveling. Many basements approximate these conditions, but maintaining high humidity can be a

challenge. Draping plastic bags or plastic sheets with holes in them can help hold up the humidity and increase storage time. Make sure any plastic wrapped around the potatoes has enough holes to provide good air exchange and not allow excessive moisture build-up.

Do not store sweet potatoes in outdoor pits, root cellars or locations where temperatures drop below 50 degrees. These conditions will reduce storage life and promote decay.

A common problem we see when sweet potatoes are dug is scurf, a disease caused by a soil fungus. If you have irregularly colored, dark brown or nearly black potatoes, scurf may be the culprit. Scurf does not make the potatoes inedible, but it greatly reduces storage life.

Once the disease has been introduced into the garden, there is no chemical control, and it will remain a problem for many years. Only by rotating into a new area can this disease be avoided. If you do not have room for a new site, then rotate each year to a new spot in the current garden to help reduce build-up after it has been introduced.

Never use transplants grown from sweet potatoes containing scurf. If it is a problem, purchase only certified, disease-free plants. Also, be careful accepting new planting slips from well-meaning neighbors. To help prevent the spread of scurf, thoroughly clean tools and equipment used in infected soil.

For more information about growing sweet potatoes and other vegetables, check out the "Vegetable Gardening in the Midwest" book available from your local U of I Extension office. Or, log on to Extension's "Illinois Vegetable Garden Guide" website at http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/vegguide/.

Peonies often grow and flower for many years, and they usually do not need frequent division like other perennials. Established clumps have remained undisturbed for 25 or more years and still flowered well. However, depending on site and growing conditions, crowding can occur. That's when plants should be lifted and divided.

Tony Bratsch, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator, offers the following advice.

The time to dig, divide and re-plant peonies is late September through October. Soils should be well-worked and amended with sufficient phosphorous and potassium before planting. Peonies prefer a neutral to slightly acidic soil; they will not do well in soils that are extremely acid. After determining soil pH, use lime to increase pH in acidic soils. Then later, add lime to the bed surface, as needed, every two to three years to maintain proper pH.

Before digging, cut back the old tops. Lift plants with as much soil around the roots as possible. Using a sharp knife, carefully separate the clump of roots, leaving buds or "eyes" on each new planting piece. Reset with the buds no more than 1 inch below the soil surface. If buds are deeper than this, they may not flower normally. Roots beneath the growth buds should be set deeper and positioned as they were previously growing.

When peonies are finished flowering next year, cut off the flower head or seed pods. Allow as much foliage as possible to remain, and if desired, stems can be cut back to form a rounded bush.

Peonies make an attractive green plant for the summer with proper flower removal and shaping, and they can develop outstanding fall foliage color. Once the tops are frost-killed, trim stems to the ground. Apply a shallow leaf or bark mulch to minimize frost heaving of the bed area.

For more information about peony care and other perennials, visit our Perennials and More website.

Wrapping up the garden for the season is not the one-day project many people assume, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.

"This process is usually done over the course of several weeks, since houseplants summering outdoors may need to come inside in September and some outdoor gardening activities may extend into mid- or late October," said Sharon Yiesla.

Home gardeners might find it helpful to follow a "to-do" list for fall prepared by Yiesla.

"First, bring in houseplants that have summered outdoors," she said. "They should come in when night temperatures consistently fall into the lower fifties--and this could be as early as September."

When moving the plants inside, she cautioned, try to avoid abrupt changes in light and temperature. Also check for insects. Cleaning the pot or repotting the plant may be enough to control pests. Some plants that have outgrown their pot may need to be repotted. Pruning may be in order for plants that have grown vigorously while outside.

"Next, clean up vegetable gardens and annual flower beds," she said. "First, harvest all usable vegetables and annual flowers. Any leftover debris can be tilled into the soil or placed into compost piles. Be sure to clean up weeds as they can harbor diseases and insects.

"Add compost and other organic material to enrich the soil and mulch beds to prevent erosion during the winter."

Third, perennial flower beds need to be cleaned up. Remove weeds to eliminate overwintering sites for insects and diseases. After a couple of frosts, mulch the perennial bed with two to three inches of mulch. The tops of the plants can be cut back now or in the early spring, depending on when you have the time. New perennials can be planted in September, and established perennials can be divided.

"The fourth 'to-do' task is tree and shrub maintenance," she noted. "Prune deciduous trees after they go dormant or in the early spring. Prune late-summer and fall-flowering shrubs after they go dormant. DO NOT prune spring-flowering shrubs in the fall as you will remove the flower buds.

"Trees and shrubs can be fertilized after they go dormant. Continue regular watering as long as the ground is not frozen. This is especially important for evergreens."

Finally, there are a number of miscellaneous activities in the garden that are appropriate in the fall season.

"These include planting spring-flowering bulbs from mid-September through mid-October, cleaning garden tools so they will be ready next spring, seeing to the proper storage of seeds, fertilizer, and garden chemicals, and draining and storing water hoses," she said.

Fall is the best time to start your bird feeding program according to Bob Frazee, University of Illinois Extension natural resources educator. Birds, small mammals and other wildlife are actively seeking food sources to fatten up for migration or for winter temperatures if they are year-round residents. By having your feeders up early, there is a better opportunity for birds to find the feeder and become accustomed to using it before winter arrives.

Since enjoying the birds is a major objective, you will want to locate the feeder where it can be conveniently viewed—and used. Due to differences in body size, feet and bills, birds not only prefer different seeds but also different foraging areas. This does not mean that birds will never feed in a different area, but you will increase your chances by catering to their feeding preferences.

Birds such as juncos, sparrows, cardinals, blue jays and mourning doves prefer to forage on the ground for seeds. Frazee notes that you will often observe these birds hopping around the lower branches of shrubs and rustling through leaf litter in search of seeds and berries. A small brush pile, open lean-to or grassy patch provides cover for ground-feeding birds while they eat.

A covered tray feeder raised off the ground on a fence or pole is the most common feeder you see in people's yards. Tray feeders will accommodate most of the ground feeders plus chickadees, nuthatches and finches. While this type of feeder will attract the widest variety of birds, the seeds are not protected from the weather and can get wet and/or moldy. Frazee cautions that squirrels and large birds, such as grackles and blue jays may also invade a tray feeder.

Hanging feeders may include hopper, silo and tube feeders with perches. Hung from a branch, eaves, or a clothesline, these feeders sway freely in the wind, which does not bother birds such as finches, chickadees, woodpeckers and nuthatches. However, some birds such as sparrows, get a little "sea-sick" and prefer more stability. Frazee encourages filling large hanging feeders with sunflower seeds to attract cardinals and blue jays. Small feeders should be geared more toward finches, chickadees, nuthatches and tufted titmice. Niger seed is very attractive to goldfinches and works well in small-hole tube feeders, which avoid waste.

Woodpeckers and nuthatches are primarily insect eaters. They prefer foods high in protein and fat such as suet and peanut butter that can be dispersed in clinging feeders. Made of hardware cloth, mesh bags, pine cones, coconuts or other "structures" lacking perches, clinging feeders are excellent for dispensing peanuts to smaller birds or suet to insect-eaters.

Lastly, just like persnickety kids, birds have different food preferences. Hands down, black-oil sunflower seeds are the most popular food among a large variety of birds. Juncos and sparrows go wild for white proso millet. Goldfinches cannot resist niger seed. Chickadees and titmice will delightfully indulge themselves with peanuts. In a nutshell, Frazee concludes that the key to successfully attracting wildlife to your backyard is to add variety.

At this time of the year, many people who frequent farmer's markets, garden centers and even some supermarkets, will see a yellow-green grapefruit-sized fruit that is often called a hedge apple. According to Bob Frazee, University of Illinois Extension natural resources educator, hedge apples are produced by the Osage-orange tree (Maclura pomifera), which is commonly grown throughout Illinois. The Osage-orange is a member of the Mulberry Family and is commonly called a hedge tree.

As early-American settlers began moving west during the nineteenth century, many Midwest farmers found the Osage-orange tree to have many admirable qualities. According to Frazee, it is a tough and durable tree; transplants easily; tolerates poor soils, extreme heat and strong winds; and has no serious insect or disease problems. Consequently, it was planted widely as a living fence because, when its thorny branches were pruned into a hedge, it provided an impenetrable barrier to livestock.

The wood is extremely hard, heavy and durable, and it shrinks or swells little compared to the wood of other trees. Thus, the wood is typically used for fence posts, treenails, furniture and archery bows. According to University of Nebraska researchers, dried hedge is the highest in BTU's of dried wood from native trees when used as firewood. However, they caution that burning hedge does result in considerable sparking, so a protective screen or shield needs to be placed between the fireplace and the room.

However, Frazee reports it is the fruit of the Osage-orange that most individuals find intriguing. Although kids take enjoyment in throwing them, they are usually considered a nuisance in the home landscape.

Many people purchase hedge apples believing that hedge apples can repel or control insects, spiders and even mice in their homes, basements and garages. The use of hedge apples as a pest solution is often communicated as a folk tale complete with testimonials about apparent success. Unfortunately, there is an absence of scientific research and, consequently, no valid evidence to confirm the claim's effectiveness. According to Frazee, a few years ago, toxicologists from Iowa State University extracted compounds from hedge apples that were found to repel insects when concentrated. However, the scientists reported that natural concentrations of these compounds in the hedge apples were too low to be an effective repellent.

If you decide to pick hedge apples to check out their ability to control pests or to use the fruit as a fall decoration, Frazee cautions that it is important to wear gloves. The milky juice present in the stems and fruit can cause irritation to the skin.

One of the reasons we had such an unusually cool summer was due to the predominance of northerly winds, bringing with it cooler temperatures. Commonly we will have southerly winds during the summer months; however, this July and even August, we were on the receiving end of quite a few northerly winds. Not only did this lower our temperatures, which many of us enjoyed, it also brought us soybean aphids. And with the aphids came the predators—lady beetles being the most common.

Lady beetle populations rise and fall depending upon availability of their food source, which can be about any insect or mite of which they think they can make a meal. This year, the number of soybean aphids was high, and lady beetle populations exploded. And guess what that means? Yep, some of you folks will be lucky enough to be host to these guys this winter.

In their native habitat, Asian lady beetles (which are the most common lady beetle found in our area) overwinter in mountainous regions. They will also congregate in huge numbers when they overwinter, by the tens of thousands. It is obvious that we do not have many mountains in this part of the country, so they will be attracted to the next best thing—farmhouses. Big, two story, white farmhouses are the most attractive to these beetles. The other problem with these big farmhouses is they are usually older, which means plenty of cracks and crevices which the beetles can crawl into.

The last time we had really huge lady beetle numbers was in 2001, which was also the last year we had soybean aphid numbers as high as we had this year. Throughout that winter, many homeowners found themselves face-to-face with lady beetles in their living room, kitchen, bedroom, etc.; and many of you came to really hate these insects.

We may see the same thing this year. So how can you avoid what will probably be an invasion of your home? First would be to fill in any cracks or crevices that the beetles may use to gain entry into the house. Of course, this is easier said than done. It is almost impossible to do that in an older house, but it is really the only way to keep the beetles outside. You might consider a spray, such as sevin on the outside walls (especially the south facing ones); but, remember, these insects are beneficial as they consume aphids. Plus they do not do any damage when inside the house—they do not eat or damage foods, fabric, wood, etc. They are only there to spend the winter. When it warms up in the spring, they will leave, and you will come face-to-face with them then as well.

You might also consider using a vacuum with a sock placed somewhere in the line to capture them. Then take the sock a few miles down the road and release them. Remember not to smash them as they can leave a stain on surfaces. They can also "bite" you if you try to move them by hand. It is not an extremely painful bite, but you will feel it.

Fall is one of the best times to start a home compost pile. "As vegetable and flower gardens start to reach their peak and start to fade, lawns still need mowing and the fall outdoor cleanup season begins, there is plenty of good material available to start making compost," says John Church, University of Illinois Extension Educator, Natural Resources, Rockford. Compost helps reduce the volume of such yard wastes and can provide a valuable soil amendment for gardens.

"Green" nitrogen-containing materials, such as grass, and "brown" carbon-containing material, such as dried plants or leaves are essential ingredients for composting. Late summer and fall provide many of those materials, such as fresh vegetable scraps, grass clippings, and dried vegetable and flower plant materials. Kitchen scraps, which do not have meat or fat in them, can also be added safely to the compost pile. Shredded paper can also be added to supplement carbon sources.

If properly done, compost should not have an odor and if properly sited, the bins or piles can blend nicely into the garden or yard area. If there is an odor, the most likely cause is the lack of air, which can be remedied by turning the pile more often. Rodents or insects should not be a problem if meaty or fatty food scraps are not used. About a cubic yard, 3 ft. x 3 ft. x 3 ft., can be an ideal size for most home compost bins. It is a good size to accommodate most yard waste materials and is a manageable size for turning and speed of composting. Adequate moisture is also needed for the most efficient composting. Maintain the material's moisture similar to that of a damp sponge.

Commercial bins can be purchased, but homemade bins can also be used effectively. Bins can be made of fencing wire, cement blocks, non-treated scrap lumber, used pallets, bricks or other materials. Actually, composting can be done in a pile without any container, but a more concentrated, contained area helps maintain heating levels and can speed the composting.

"Getting started now will help be prepared for later this summer and fall, when even more material such as leaves are available. Then the compost will already be in place for possible use in the garden next year," concludes Church.

For more information on composting and managing yard wastes, contact the local University of Illinois Extension office or visit the Extension website at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/compost.

Large numbers of Multicolored Asian lady beetles are making their presence known. This growing season the weather was ideal for large numbers of soybean aphids to develop and multiply and the Multicolored Asian lady beetle population parallels the growth of the soybean aphid population because that's one of its favorite foods! Lots of aphids equal lots of lady beetles.

Unlike our regular lady bugs the Multicolored Asian lady beetle is a fairly large. Adults are roundish, one-quarter inch long, yellowish to orange to red beetles with zero to 19 black spots on the back. Originally introduced to control scale insects and aphids on ornamental plants in the south eastern United States they have greatly expanded their habitat. They provide excellent natural biological control of scale and aphids. It is hard to believe that there is a benefit to these bugs when they are crawling all over your house, your car, yourself, or your yard in the fall, but they provide tremendous service in managing a very serious pest on soybean here in Illinois called soybean aphid. This provides both economic and environmental benefit to our food production by reducing insecticide applications.

University of Illinois Extension Entomologist Phil Nixon notes that "Multicolored Asian lady beetle larvae feed on soft-bodied insects such as aphids and scale on trees, shrubs, and low-lying plants. When soybean aphids are numerous, very large numbers of these lady beetles are produced. Fully-grown larvae are about one-quarter inch long and look like tiny, black alligators with a yellow to orangish band across the middle of the body. They pupate on plants and later emerge as adults."

Fall is when the problems for the general populace begin. These beetles are quite lovely, but not very clever. In their native Japan, the beetle overwinters as an adult in cracks and crevices of cliffs and rocks and other similar cover. Well, we are not exactly covered with cliffs, or rocks or even much topography here in central Illinois. So, as far as the beetle is concerned your home looks like a big cliff and a great place to overwinter. They cross the line from beneficial insect to pesky nuisance when they try to move in with you. They are attracted to buildings where they enter cracks and crevices to overwinter, commonly entering the living space from the wall void or around windows. The beetle is not known to be specifically attracted to any particular type of house or siding, it just wants in a structure to overwinter. The beetles also bite and emit a strong, disagreeable odor if disturbed. The beetle is not attempting to eat you, again, it is not very clever and as far as it is concerned you could be an enormous aphid, so it takes a bite to find out. The bite pinches.

Adult lady beetles are primarily managed by caulking exterior cracks and crevices, particularly around windows and corners of the building, both corners that jut out and those that are recessed. Beetles indoors can be vacuumed and disposed of outdoors. Using a shop vacuum is easier for this purpose because it cleans out easily, and they can be smelly. Light traps for use indoors are available on the internet and in some stores, but are rarely effective unless they are the only light source at night. Find out how to build one on this USDA website http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/br/lbeetle/ .

In counties where soybean aphids were a fairly new pest the number of Multicolored Asian lady beetles is fairly alarming to many people. Typically, insecticide applications are not recommended however, with very large infestations Pyrethroid insecticide applications applied by professional pest control operators (exterminators) on the outside of the building along edges and around windows are effective. One spray usually provides season-long control.

Let's hope for a much lower soybean aphid population next season. In the meanwhile for low to moderate infestations' a caulk gun and a vacuum will be your best bet.

You can start a recycling factory in your own backyard by re-thinking the leaves at your feet and withered tomato plants in the garden as valuable organic materials.

You can put stalks and stems left after harvest, sod, hay, straw and grass clippings to good use (if they haven't been treated with weed killers). Gather them in a pile, add vegetable scraps from the kitchen and you're on your way to making compost that can become fertilizer, soil conditioner and excellent mulch.

Composting does require more work than that, but it doesn't have to be complicated or expensive.

Organic materials will decompose whether you have a fancy bin, container or just a pile on the ground, according to Dan Sullivan, soil scientist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. "Simple piles work well," he said. "Some people prefer containers because they look neater or because it's easier to shield them from marauding pests or pets."

A composting station can be made from old lumber or pallets, mesh fencing or cinder blocks. Some disposal companies offer composting containers free of charge to encourage composting rather than land filling.

For hot (fast) compost, minimum bin size should be at least about half a cubic yard, or about two to three feet wide, two to three feet tall, and three feet deep to retain heat. Sullivan recommends combining two parts bulking agents such as autumn leaves, wood chips, sawdust, hay, wheat straw or corn stalks with one part energy sources such as grass clippings, fruit and vegetable waste or non-woody garden trimmings.

Other hints for a hot compost pile

• For faster composing, keep the size of the raw materials put into compost to no greater than an inch in diameter.
• Mix the types of raw materials, rather than layering them.
• A large pile holds heat better than a small pile. For hot compost, make the initial pile at least a half cubic yard in volume.
• Keep the pile moist, but not wet.
• Cover the pile in wet winter weather or dry, hot summer weather.
• Turn the pile once a week to aerate it, if you wish.
• Compost ingredients are covered with microorganisms. There is no need to add starters or soil, although some people prefer to use them.

"If you cannot get the pile to heat, it's okay," Sullivan said. "The pile will still break down, but more slowly than hot compost and weed seeds may not all be killed."

Fall is a beautiful time of year when the colorful displays of nature bring enjoyment to the season. But when the leaves from trees and shrubs start to drop, homeowners are left with decisions on how to effectively manage the load of leaves on their lawns and planted areas.

There are several options for disposal or onsite use. Most towns and cities offer curbside leaf pickup. Some require bagging of leaves while others prefer bulk piles that can be vacuumed from the street and loaded loosely onto hauling trucks. Loose leaves are often used for bulk composting at large-scale facilities. Bagged leaves usually end up in landfills and are not recycled into the environment.

Many municipalities allow curbside leaf burning or burning piles in the yard. But, there are environmental and health issues associated with burning. Burning causes localized air pollution and respiratory aggravation, making breathing more difficult for people with allergies and asthma symptoms. Often, specific days are allowed for burning based on fire safety and atmospheric conditions related to smoke dispersal.

To limit stress on landfills and to avoid burning, you can use the leaves in your landscape. If you have a light covering of leaves, the first option is to simply mow and shred the leaves, leaving them on the lawn. Mulching mowers are particularly effective in shredding leaves. The shredded leaves will settle through the lawn and provide valuable organic mulch that will help improve turf growth. Just don't smother growing grass with shredded leaves. And for lawns with high levels of thatch, it is better to rake and remove the leaves.

Leaves can also be used as an organic mulch around the base of landscape plants. Mulch helps conserve soil moisture, inhibits weed growth, and recycles nutrients into the soil. Mulch also helps reduce soil compaction and erosion, keeps soil cooler through the hot summer months, and helps moderate soil freezing in the winter.

Shredded leaves make a better mulch than whole leaves because they decay faster and do not easily blow away. A mower with a bag attachment is handy for leaf collection. Piles of leaves can also be shredded through repeated mowing and then raked by hand. Raking leaves onto a plastic tarp is an ideal way to move large volumes of leaves.

How deep should a leaf mulch be? For trees and shrubs, apply no more than 4 to 6 inches deep. In perennial flower beds, apply 2 to 3 inches.

Leaves can also be used in the vegetable garden for pathways, incorporated into the soil, or left on top of the soil as a "sheet compost" layer. Chopped leaves can be applied as a mulch for perennial crops such as asparagus, rhubarb, and small fruit plantings such as raspberries and gooseberries.

For garden walkways between rows or raised beds, apply a thick layer of leaves to allow easy and clean access to the garden in wet, muddy conditions. Tilled into the soil, leaves are ideal for soil improvement. Apply a 6- to 8-inch layer to vegetable gardens, annual flower beds and newly developed perennial planting beds. The leaves should be incorporated to ensure soil contact and faster breakdown during the winter. To hasten leaf breakdown, apply a small amount of nitrogen fertilizer as the leaves are being tilled into the soil. If your vegetable garden is too wet to till, apply a thin 2- to 3-inch sheet compost layer and then spade or till in the leaves as soon as possible in the spring.

Leaves can also be used in a compost pile. Shredded or whole leaves should be pressed down and layered with small amounts of soil, organic household waste, and fertilizer to stimulate breakdown over the winter. For more information and composting techniques, visit this U of I Extension website: http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/state/hort15.html.

There are many options for managing leaves in the landscape. Most homeowners find that a combination of methods works best to solve their leaf disposal problem.

Tony Bratsch