It's fall leaf time again, and those interested in the phenomenon of fall leaf color should be happy with the fall colors we achieve this year. We are entering the peak color period for this season. Frost is often credited with causing the great fall colors, but it actually kills leaves producing dull earth tone colors. Bright fall colors are caused by chemical reactions in leaves, and these reactions are triggered by shortening day length and cool temperatures.

To understand the process that creates color, we need to know a little about basic tree growth. A tree has two parts in its vascular system, the xylem and the phloem. A tree's xylem cells can be thought of as thousands of minute soda straws packed end to end, going from the roots to the leaves. Water and nutrients are taken up by the roots and transported to the leaves through the xylem cells in the tree's sapwood. In the leaves, water and nutrients are converted into sugar, the energy that feeds the tree's growth. This conversion process, known as photosynthesis, happens in the presence of chlorophyll and sunlight.

The phloem is a thin layer of cells found in the inner bark of the tree. This is where the sugars move from the leaves to the roots and other storage sites within the tree. The location of the phloem shows how a tree can be severely injured or killed if its bark is damaged. If the phloem is disrupted, food can't flow through the phloem and the roots starve to death.

Fall coloration starts with the onset of senescence, a natural process that disrupts the tree's vascular system. This is the orderly process in which the light gathering and carbon capturing substances in the leaves, including the pigments that capture sunlight and the proteins that use the captured energy are disrupted and broken down. The change is started by the tree's genetic ability to "sense" day length and temperature variations. Fall's shorter days with less light and different light intensity, along with the cooler and longer nights affect the production of growth regulators that trigger senescence.

The long and warm days of summer produce high levels of the auxins and gibberellins that stimulate tree growth and low levels of growth inhibitors. These stimulate a variety of changes, including the formation of corklike cells at the base of the leaf petiole, which produces a brittle zone around the vascular tissue so that it is easy for the leaf to break off from the branch. Eventually only the dead xylem cells are left holding the leaf on the tree. Heavy winds or rains can easily break this fragile connection, causing leaves to fall to the ground.

The shorter days and cooler temperatures get the tree ready for dormancy. Chlorophyll production drops dramatically from the high levels of the growing season to virtually nothing. The tree's priorities then switch to the production of sugars that will be stored for next season's growth. This reduction in chlorophyll production starts the visible fall colors. Chlorophyll is the predominant pigment and makes the leaves green during the growing season. Chlorophyll is also very fragile and must be replaced by plants on a continual basis until the days grow short and temperatures fall. The fading of the green color, due to much lower chlorophyll production, causes the other pigments once masked by the green chlorophyll to come through. These other pigments include yellow, orange, and buff colors of the carotenoid, xanthophyll, and tannin pigments.

Carotenoids are always present in the leaves, so fall's yellow to orange colors are usually fairly consistent from year to year. Xanthophyll is a yell to tan colored pigemtn and tannins are responsible for the brown earth tones found in oak leaves. A fourth pigment called anthocyanin does not naturally occur in the leaves, but is a product of senescence and concentrated sugar sap in the leaf cells. Anthocyanins appear red and generate the varying shades of blue, purple, and red that provide some of the most vibrant color displays. The actual color depends on the pH of the cell sap, with acidic saps causing red to orange and neutral to alkaline saps will appear purple to blue. Not all trees produce anthocyanins with sugar and red maples, dogwoods, sumac, blackgum, sweetgum, scarlet oak, sassafras, persimmon, hawthorn, and white oak producing the most brilliant shades of red, maroon, purple, and blue.

Hopefully this somewhat scientific explanation of fall colors will cause you to understand a little better what went on within trees to bring about an abundance of fall color.

Fall is a great time to apply herbicides to control the tougher perennial weeds and the winter annuals that are just starting to germinate. The tough perennials would include weeds like ground ivy and violets. The winter annuals are mainly chickweed and henbit in our area.

The straight 2,4-D that is used on dandelions seems to act like a fertilizer for chickweed and other problem weeds. Combinations that contain 2,4-D, MCPP, and dicamba are rated very effective on chickweed, henbit, red sorrel, purslane, white clover, and others. These combinations are sold under several different trade names. You can find these at most hardware, discount, and lawn and garden stores. Just check the label under active ingredients and check for two long chemical names and dicamba. You can also check to see that it says it will control chickweed and henbit. This group of chemicals is effective in the 50 degree range and up. As with any chemical control, read and follow label instructions very carefully. There will be some cautions on these product labels concerning injury to sensitive plants that you should be aware of. This is because dicamba can drift as a vapor for a few weeks after you apply it if the weather gets hot and sunny.

The mixture with dicamba will control most broadleaf weeds, and the addition of trichlopyr to this mix will even help with violets.

With continuing weather extremes, such as flooding followed by a month of dry weather, then very cool weather followed by heat followed by a cool August, well things just aren't "normal." These adverse conditions have really taken a toll on our trees. When the entire tree looks like it is dieing, the injury, disease, or insect logically must be affecting the trunk or the roots. These areas would cut off the water supply to the entire tree. Look at the entire tree and compare it to nearby trees. Also consider when the problem started and what changed on the site about that same time. Healthy trees don't suddenly die because they are old. Many below ground reasons may cause tree decline. Drought, flooding, compaction of the root zone, poor soils, planting too deeply, inadequate space for roots and many other things could be involved. Often, diagnosing such a problem is a process of elimination. One of the possibilities more difficult to eliminate is root rot. Most gardeners believe that they cannot possibly know the health of a mature tree's roots.

Cankers on the stems, stem tip dieback, off-color foliage, early fall color and early defoliation are also clues that a tree may be stressed by underground causes. To detect the wood rots and root rots, look for mushroom-like fungi growing at the base of the tree or shrub. In wood rot fungi, the conks (also called shelf fungi or fruiting bodies) may be found growing on the trunk or main branches. These are signs of the disease. The actual fungus is probably growing in or on the roots, or inside the wood. One of the most common examples is Ganoderma root rot, which produces a shelf type of fungal structure at the base of many trees, especially honeylocust. The structure is reddish-brown and appears to have been varnished. Its presence indicates invasion by a root rot. Other fungi may indicate wood rots. Wet weather often triggers the formation of these structures. They could easily be confused with fungi growing on dead organic debris near a tree. If, however, they are growing from the tree itself, they are excellent signs of wood rot or root rot.

No chemicals help a tree in decline. Use approved cultural practices, such as proper watering and fertilizing to improve vitality. Cut out dead branches in the dormant season, fertilize in late fall or early spring and keep traffic off the root system. For very old or large trees, fertilization and watering may have no benefit, but these practices sometimes help the tree survive for years.

A common complaint this year has been the large amount of mushrooms and toadstools coming up in lawns. To begin with, these are in the decay fungi group. They are decaying old tree roots or lumber under the surface. This means there is no ready control for them, other than removing the material to be decayed.

Many people are commenting about the yellow and black "sweat bees" flying around everywhere the last week. The yellow and black insects that are commonly called sweat bees are actually syrphid flies.

Syrphid fly is a generic name given to an entire group of flies. There are some differences in appearance and color, but the yellow and black color is the major one in our area. The other names for syrphid flies are hover flies or flower flies. They tend to hover around your arms and face when you have been perspiring, and land to lap up the sweat. They are also commonly found on flowers, hence the flower fly name, and do a good job of pollinating.

Syrphid flies are actually beneficial insects. They help pollinate, larvae feed on dead organic matter, and the larvae are predators of aphids. They cannot sting, but their mouthparts can usually be felt when lapping up sweat from sensitive areas. You may feel a slight pinch.

Yellowjackets are the other common yellow and black insect this time of year. Yellowjackets can be very aggressive in biting and stinging. They are usually about twice the size of the syrphid flies, and the easiest way to tell them apart (without getting stung) is to count the wings. Flies have one pair, and bees and wasps have two pairs.

Yellowjackets are most frequently encountered when they scavenge for food. Their habit of feeding on nectar and sugar can create a nuisance. Yellowjackets are attracted to open cups and cans of soda and other sweet liquids. They are also attracted to open cans of garbage, bright flowery clothing, and floral scented perfumes. All outside garbage cans must be kept clean and well covered to reduce yellowjacket problems. Contact with the wasps can be decreased by reducing these attractions at picnics and other outings. In situations closer to home, the elimination of overripe fruit from gardens and orchards will dramatically decrease the number of scavenging yellowjackets. Holding gatherings indoors and using screens on windows will also help avoid yellowjacket problems.

As for the syrphid flies, no controls are going to be very effective. On the other hand, there really isn't much need for control. They are really a nuisance pest that is very agile. They will probably be able to avoid that aerosol spray. Inside the home, a swatter and a vacuum cleaner are probably the best tools.

During the late summer small insects, known as insidious flower bugs and minute pirate bugs, become real pests by producing painful bites on people. They are about 1/5 of an inch long with black and white markings on the back. They are beneficial insects most of the time while feeding on small insects and their eggs.

They are present all summer in area fields, flower beds, and other landscape areas. Most of the summer the insects are beneficial, but then they become quite the nuisance when their regular food source runs out. Their painful bite is caused by their beak breaking your skin. These insects don't suck blood or inject venom like mosquitoes.

People differ in their response to the bites. Some people react to the bites like mosquito bites, with swelling and itching. Other people have no reaction at all. Control of insidous flower bugs and minute pirate bugs is not practical. They are mobile, and the populations change greatly. Wearing dark clothing on may help, as the insects seem to be attracted to light colors. Repellents are sometimes effective, but not enough to make a recommendation. Try the repellents for yourself and see if they work for you.

To begin with, you may have noticed a very large number of brown needles on evergreens this fall. That may even have translated to large piles of needles under your evergreens in the past few weeks, especially white pines. Not to worry. Evergreens usually only keep one to four years of needles (one to two years growth for white pines) on the ends of branches. Depending on weather, the old needles will turn brown and drop off. Usually this is a gradual process that isn't noticed too much. This year it happened all at once. If the buds on branch tips are plump and green, odds are your tree is fine.

Several calls have come in concerning the proper time to prune or cut things back. Let's start with some flowers. Keep in mind that perennials keep building their food reserves until all the leaves and stems are brown. For peonies and other similar flowers, you want to wait until all the above ground plant parts are brown. Then you can mow them off, or cut them at ground level. This same principal goes for most perennial flowers – wait until the above ground parts are no longer green. For trees and shrubs, pruning is best done at other times. Flowering shrubs should be done after they flower, high sap flow trees are best done in December, and most other trees are best done in February. The evergreen trees and shrubs are best done in late June.

Crabgrass is nearing the end of its lifecycle. It comes up from a seed about the first of April each year, depending on temperatures. Seed has been viable for several weeks already, and that is what will make next year's crop. The seedling germination inhibitors do the best job on the annual grasses, and they can stop the cycle anytime you apply them. For now, let nature run its course since you really don't have any options anyway.

Lawn diseases have been very prevalent this year. We have had rust, brown spot, and dollar spot for the most part. Healthy grass has already begun to fill in spots, and will continue to do so through the fall. The rule of thumb is existing grass can fill in a spot as large as a dinner plate in one growing season. Extra fertility can help this happen, especially the P and K. To really thicken things up, and mow twice a week minimum until December, you can fertilize additionally the first week of October and the first week of November with fertilizers low in nitrogen. This means starter/winterizers or complete lawn and garden fertilizers.

Make sure you watch your pumpkins and squash as the wet soil conditions seem to be making things rot quicker than normal. Here are some rules for selecting pumpkins:

· Choose a pumpkin with a stem and never carry it by the stem. Pumpkins without a stem will not last long.

· Select a pumpkin with a flat bottom, so it will stand upright

· Avoid pumpkins with holes, cuts or soft spots. These areas will rot.

· Light colored pumpkins are easier to carve because the skin is not as hard as darker orange colored ones, but they will not keep as well.

· Wash the pumpkin with warm water and let it dry before carving. Use of a small amount of dishwashing soap in the warm water may help extend the life of the pumpkin.

· To make the pumpkin last longer, keep it in a cool place until ready to carve. After carving, coat the cuts with petroleum jelly.

· Carving should only be done three days ahead of Halloween. After cutting, the pumpkin will deteriorate rapidly.

· The use of a candle in the pumpkin will also make it deteriorate rapidly.

It seems like fall has snuck up on us. Of course the weather has been anything but predictable this year. It is very easy to notice the evenings are much shorter, and we have less time to do the things we need to do in the fall. Following is a list of things to get into your schedule over the next few weeks, and in some cases not to do.

Do a good job of raking up old fruit from under trees. This old fruit harbors many diseases and insects that could cause you problems for next year, if allowed to lay under the tree. Don't stop with the ground clean‑up, but also remove mummified fruit and small fruit from the trees and dispose of in another location.

We are now at the "breaking point" for the recommended time to seed grass seed. If you want to try it later, you may have excellent luck or have no luck at all. The next recommended seeding time is mid‑March to the 1^st of April. Figure on about two pounds of seed per 1000 square feet of lawn for an overseeding, and four pounds per 1000 square feet for a newly tilled area. Hopefully the temperature and moisture situation will be more favorable than it has been earlier. In past years this meant too dry, and this year it means your seed may have been washed out or buried.

We are also at the breaking point for major renovation projects such as dethatching and aeration. However, the wet soils won't be very conducive to these practices. One thing that is going to work very well with the saturated soils will be rolling to level out uneven lawns. Usually if your problem is due to nightcrawlers, the problem will reoccur.

Now is a great time to go after those broadleaf weeds in the lawn. Make sure that you select the correct product, use the proper amount, and do not treat areas containing fall seeded grass. The rule of thumb is that you need to mow newly seeded grass at least 3 times before treating that area for broadleaf weeds. This means you don't try and do both in the same fall or spring seeding season. Broadleaf weeds that are perennial are sending large amounts of material to the roots to enable them to come up again next year, and translocated herbicides will be sent to the roots as well. Be warned this also means perennials such as shrubs are in the same boat.

Pruning chores for plants with a high sap flow should be done in December, while other pruning chores are best done in early February for deciduous plants, and in June for evergreens. Flowering shrubs are best done after they flower. Pruning now is often a recipe for greater chance of damage to plants. A hard freeze in mid-October will really wreak havoc on evergreens pruned at this time.

Many of you are interested in becoming Master Gardeners in Logan County. It's a great group of people, offers many volunteer opportunities, promotes community service, and nurtures your love of horticulture. We were scheduled to have training this fall in Logan County, since we have the opportunity to offer training alternating falls. However, all trainings have been put on hold due to some restructuring at the state and regional levels. The next batch of trainings will be this coming spring.

Much damage has already been done to trees by diseases and insects. Fall traditionally brings more insects intent on devouring the leaves remaining. Let's begin by listing some of the culprits. Fall webworms, Eastern tent caterpillars, Tussock moth larvae, Walnut caterpillars, Cecropia moth larvae, and a host of others are all considered fall defoliators. What is defoliation? It is simply removing the leaves from a plant. This group of insects accomplishes the feat by eating leaves.

What does fall defoliation do to a tree or shrub? It does two things. First it removes the leaf tissue so that less food is made for the plant. Second, the insects, their webs, or their damage can be unsightly. In the end, damage happening to a tree or shrub in September is usually cosmetic, unless you have new transplants or plants that aren't healthy to begin with.

Most fall defoliators come to us as the larval stage (caterpillars) of a moth. When we talk about controls of the larvae, the fact that they are larvae of moths or butterflies makes them susceptible to the use of B.t. products such as Thuricide. Other control options include the standbys such as Sevin, diazinon, Othene, malathion, and others.

The way that insects live also dictates some of the control do's and don'ts. Fall webworms live inside a "web" all the time. They actually expand the webbing as they need to have more leaves to eat. They are usually worst on fruit and nut trees. You can even clip the nest (and the branch it is around) off the tree and burn it. I guess this tells you that defoliation caused by the insect isn't that great of a threat to the tree or you wouldn't cut the branch area off. If you want to spray fall webworms, you need to get the spray through the web. This may be a little harder than you think. If you don't have enough pressure, the spray just runs off the webbing.

In the case of Eastern tent caterpillars, they hatch out of a common nest. They then leave the nest to feed, but generally return in the evening to congregate in the area of the nest. They are not covered by webbing, and the time they are congregated is a great time to spray since they are usually in one area on the trunk or main branches of trees.

Of the other fall defoliators mentioned, the giant Cecropia moth larvae are quite a sight. If you are able to see one. They are very large caterpillars that can eat tremendous amounts of leaves in a hurry. There are other related moth larvae such as Prometheus moths, but they are all in the giant silk moth family and the moths usually have wing spans of at least four inches.

In summary, control of fall defoliators isn't usually justified from the plant's standpoint. Forested areas have heavy pressure from this group in insects every year, and the trees are still thriving. The exception is newly transplanted or struggling plants. If appearances are important, consider a control spray.

There have been many findings of the emerald ash borer in central Illinois over the past month, including Bloomington, Chenoa, LaSalle County, and Bureau County. What does this mean for us? It means the borers have been active and undetected in areas for a long period of time. That is part of the problem with the emerald ash borer: it can be in a tree for three to five years before any visual symptoms are available to help us diagnose the problem.

Add into the equation there are other diseases and boring insects that cause similar problems, and we end up with some confusion. Much of the information Illinois is using has come to us from Michigan State University, where they have been battling the problem for many years. Symptoms of infestation of emerald ash borer include canopy dieback, shoots coming from the base of the tree, splitting bark, serpentine feeding galleries under the bark, increased woodpecker activity, and "D" shaped exit holes. Remember, many other problems cause many of these same symptoms.

Emerald ash borer does not do well moving from one place to another on its own. Most of the help comes from humans moving firewood, lumber, or other items made from infested trees. This movement of products is why the insect "leapfrogs" from one place to another, often many miles away.

Many people have asked to have their ash trees looked at to see if they have it. That is all well and good, but remember it can be in your tree for up to five years before it shows any symptoms that can be seen. The other question is how do I save my ash tree? To that end, here are some of the things to look at when considering an attempt at insecticidal control.

Phil Nixon, Extension Entomologist, has several things to look at in his list. First, the only certain method to control emerald ash borer is to remove the tree. This sounds extreme, but any control attempt is only effective in the 80 to 90 percent range. Second, the cost of treatment over a span of years should be looked at. It might only cost $35 to treat for one year, but that will really add up over 20 years with increasing costs each year. And third, a tree in a regulated are is subject to removal by governmental agencies regardless of whether it has been treated or shows signs of infestation.

There are treatment options for professionals and homeowners. It is recommended to preventatively treat ash trees no more than 15 miles from known infestations. Control is usually more effective on smaller trees, and treatment is not as effective on trees already infested. The major treatment option for homeowners is to apply Bayer Advance Tree and Shrub Insect Control (contains imidacloprid) as a soil treatment on an annual basis. This treatment will be more effective in the spring, and it takes a month or two to translocate in the tree. Also remember your tree can still be cut down if it is in the zone of a known infestation, whether it has been treated or not.

It may seem an odd time of year to be reading about rust on turfgrasses, but Logan County has had an outbreak this past two weeks. Turf rusts generally appear in cooler temperatures and we recently experienced a week of cool days with low humidity and very cool nights. The result was a nice crop of rust in the lawn.

All turfgrasses can be infected with rust fungi, but Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and zoysiagrass tend to be most susceptible. Early symptoms of rust diseases include light yellow flecks on leaves and stems, giving the lawn a yellow cast. The leaf tissue ruptures at these yellow spots, and spores of the fungus are produced. The pustules may be yellow, orange, brown, or red. The spores rub off very easily on hands, shoes, clothing, and animals. Often, the disease goes unnoticed until you mow the lawn and see that your white shoes are covered with a dusty coating of rust-colored spores.

Severely infected turf appears thin and tinted yellow, red, or brown, depending on the fungus and time of year. The turf becomes weakened, unsightly, and more susceptible to injury from environmental stress and other disease pathogens. Grasses growing slowly under stressful environmental conditions (such as big swings in temperature and moisture) are most susceptible to rust, particularly when water, fertility, and soil compaction are inadequate for good growth. There are also varieties with resistance and susceptibility to rust.

Management measures should target stress areas. Leaf wetness is required for infection, so it is important to water early in the day so the turf can dry before night. Water turf infrequently, but to a depth of 6 inches or more at each watering. Avoid frequent, light sprinklings. Fertilize to keep the grass growing about 1 inch per week in summer and early fall droughts. Use balanced fertilizer and do not apply excessive nitrogen. As the grass grows, it pushes rust-infected leaves outward, making it easy to mow and remove infected blades. It may be helpful to catch these clippings and remove them from the area. Mow regularly to remove infected leaf tips, but avoid mowing below the recommended height for the particular turf species. Prune surrounding trees and shrubs to improve light penetration and air circulation around densely shaded areas.

We have discussed the timing of grub control treatments in past columns. As a reminder, the date would have been early August for annual white grubs. We are now approaching treatment for grubs coming from the Japanese beetles. Knowing when to treat grubs is one thing, and knowing what product to use is another.

Many grub control treatments are combined with fertilizer products, and this is the appropriate time to apply a fall fertilizer treatment. It seems each year provides more "stand alone" treatment options as well. Diazinon used to be the product of choice for many homeowners, but the cancellation of home horticulture uses of the product created confusion in selecting a product. The other wild card was the use of diazinon helped eliminate mole problems (by driving them to the neighbor's yard) since the product killed grubs and reduced earthworm populations. Many of the products currently used do not affect earthworm populations, and on the whole that is a good thing since earthworms greatly benefit lawns. There are now some "soft baits" available for mole control that are effective.

Current recommended products include halofenozide (Mach 2), Heterorhabditis bacteriophora (Cruiser), imidacloprid (Merit), and trichlorfon (Dylox). Many of the chemicals have other brand names in addition to the ones listed in parenthesis. It is also recommended to drench treated areas with a half inch of water within 30 minutes of application, and this is especially important with liquid applications. Application just ahead of a rain is usually best. Granular applications buy a few days of time, but still need to be watered into the root zone where grubs are active. The products with Merit will take three weeks or so to activate. Some reputable sources also list carbaryl (Sevin) granules as an option for grubs from green June bugs and Japanese beetles. Carbaryl does reduce earthworm populations to some degree.

In good growing seasons, it normally takes at least 10 grubs per square foot of lawn area to justify treatment. In less favorable seasons, this number can be reduced to six to eight grubs per square foot. As your gasoline bill for the lawn mower can attest, this has been a good growing season to date.

Consider many factors when selecting a product. These would include combination with fertilizer, effectiveness, species controlled, cost, and the effect on the environment. The Cruiser product is actually a nematode, and would be the most environmentally safe. It also costs about $55 to treat about 3000 square foot of lawn. The other organic product sometimes mentioned for control of the Japanese beetle grubs is milky spore. This product is a bacteria which takes several years to become very effective and can cost around $35 for 2500 square foot of lawn. You can't apply any other controls with milky spore since you need high populations of grubs to increase the bacteria populations to high levels and provide transmission between grubs.

Good luck as you decide your attack plans against grubs. The choices are many, and the attainment of the "perfect" lawn is a goal many strive for. Remember, you can live with some grubs. However, too many can be devastating to a lawn. With Japanese beetle populations at very high levels in many areas, odds are great there will be grubs to battle.

If you have been following a foundation spray program all year, keep it up. If you haven't been, it is probably time to start. The foundation spray program is your first line of defense against nuisance pests in the house. It cuts down on crickets, millipedes, spiders, ants, and many others that find their way inside.

To accomplish a foundation spray, you would select a material such as permethrin or bifenthrin to begin with. Then spray the foundation and the adjacent foot or two of soil or plant material with the spray mixture. Both these products are cleared on most types of plants. Foundation treatments should be applied every 7-15 days depending on the temperatures. The materials break down quicker in hot weather.

Foundation treatments won't prevent everything from getting in the house, and they certainly won't kill things already in the house. For insects already in the house, you have a few options. The first is mechanical control. This is fancy language for something like a flyswatter, shoe, vacuum cleaner, flypaper, or glue boards. The next is chemical control. This basically means aerosol cans inside the house. The most common ones are for flying insects or ants, although many of the flying insect killers now have permethrin in them and can last quite a while.

It has been a banner year for diseases in many plants. The lawns are starting to show some of the diseases as well. Conditions have been ideal for many of the fungi that cause up problems. Humidity makes an ideal environment for many diseases, but there are some that like drier conditions. Dollar spot, brown spot, and rust have been noted in area lawns.

There are treatments available for diseases in home lawns, but they can be rather expensive and time consuming. Treatments would be applied on a 7-14 day basis throughout the season. It isn't recommended for homeowners to treat diseases in the lawn. The recommendation is let nature take its course, and then do some reseeding if needed.

We are still experiencing a large number of beetles in the garden. This includes not only the Japanese beetles, but also the recently emerged Western corn rootworm beetles. These small black and yellow striped beetles are of concern around cucumbers, melons, and pumpkins since they can carry a wilt virus.

It is a good idea to treat your vining crops with Sevin, permethrin, or bifenthrin on a weekly basis. It is important concentrate on the new runners to help prevent damage from squash vine borers.

The time of year has arrived to put that final push on to prepare your lawn for the upcoming winter months. What you do now will have a big impact on how your lawn will look next spring. The timing of many of the treatments will begin in about a week, so now you'll have plenty of time to make your list and complete your shopping.

Keep mowing when the grass or weeds dictate mowing. The rule of thumb is to remove no more than a third of the leaf blade at any one time. This means that if your desired mowing height is 2 inches, you should be mowing when the grass gets 3 inches tall. No summer slump this year, due to all the rain. It figures that we mow every three days all summer long when gas is hovering around the $4 mark.

I have had some grub samples brought into the office this week. This means that the grubs are active. Grub problems are normally found first along walks, driveways, or patios. The insecticide must get to where the grubs are, so make sure to water the liquid formulations in as soon as they are applied. The two widely available products are GrubX (halofenozide) and Merit (imidacloprid). Remember the active grubs now are from the June bug, and we'll want to wait another two to three weeks on trying to apply grub treatments for the Japanese beetle grub. Carbaryl (Sevin) granules are an option for Japanese beetle grubs, but don't work on the other species.

Yellow grass tops are visible in many areas. This tends to happen in very wet years when nitrogen is taken from the root area, and trees and shrubs grab available nutrients. In the past, treatments haven't had much effect in the current growing season. Next year you won't see the same problem.

Fall seeding of grass should be done between August 15 and September 10. This is a tried and true date, but the end of the world won't come about if you are a week later. The goal is to give the seed enough time to germinate and become established before bad weather arrives. Seed at the rate of 4 pounds of seed per 1000 square feet on bare spots, or half that rate on overseedings.

If you have a compacted yard, or have a deep thatch layer, these seeding dates also define ideal times to dethatch or aerate. Thatch layers should not be over 1/2 inch deep for optimum growing conditions. When aerating, make sure you use a core type aerator.

Fall fertilization is also a good practice. If you haven't fertilized in the last month, consider applying a fertilizer treatment around September 1. Use about 8 pounds of 13‑13‑13 fertilizer per

1000 square feet of lawn. Try to avoid the high nitrogen fertilizers this late in the year. It's hard enough to keep up with the mowing as it is, and nitrogen promotes top growth. The even analysis fertilizers will also promote root growth, which is what we want going into the late fall and winter.

Crabgrass and other annuals grass weeds can be seen about everywhere. They will die with the first frost, so treatment is not available or recommended in the fall. Make a note of where these grasses are, and an overseeding to thicken up the grasses you want there may help crowd out the annuals. Preventative treatments may also be applied in the spring (around April 1 depending on soil temperatures) to kill the germinating seeds.

Last, but not least, is broadleaf weed control. Fall is a particularly good time to treat problem perennial weeds since they are sending food down to the roots to overwinter. A spray

about the 3rd or 4th week of September (making sure to use the appropriate product) can do a world of good on the perennial weeds. Remember to be very careful with herbicides around perennial plants since they are also getting ready to overwinter. Also, waiting this late in the season reduces drift potential for the neighbor's garden. Dicamba is particularly prone to vapor drifting, for up to two weeks, with hot, sunny conditions. It's hard to get a good weather forecast for two weeks, let alone the week we are in.

With the predominant grub rapidly switching to the larval stage of the Japanese beetle, it's best to hold off grub treatments for at least a couple of weeks. The idea is to get all the eggs hatched before your application.

The eggs of the Japanese beetle and green June bug usually aren't hatched until three or four weeks after the June bug eggs. This would push treatment time to the end of August, rather than the beginning. More on grub treatment will follow in a few weeks.

This is Logan County Fair week. We'll be hard to reach because of the various 4-H Shows. If you really need to speak with someone in the office, you may always call the office at 732-8289. You may have to leave a message on the answering machine, but we'll get back to you as we are able.

With the numbers of aphids increasing in gardens, on trees, and in fields, that brings us to a couple of predators that we are familiar with. One is the Asian lady beetle, and the other is the syrphid fly. Both of these increase populations greatly when their food source, in this case aphids, increases.

We are all familiar with the Asian lady beetle. It is actually a beneficial insect since it eats aphids. It is also a nuisance pest when it gets all over the side of your house, or flies around your light over the kitchen table. The vacuum cleaner is the best control in the house, and think twice about treating them outside since they are helping you keep from having black, sticky lawn furniture.

Syrphid fly is a generic name given to an entire group of flies. There are some differences in appearance and color, but the yellow and black color is the major one in our area. The other names for syrphid flies are hover flies or flower flies. They tend to hover around your arms and face when you have been perspiring, and land to lap up the sweat. They are also commonly found on flowers, hence the flower fly name, and do a good job of pollinating.

Syrphid flies are actually beneficial insects. They help pollinate, larvae feed on dead organic matter, and the larvae are predators of aphids. They cannot sting, but their mouthparts can usually be felt when lapping up sweat from sensitive areas. You may feel a slight pinch.

People are beginning to complain about leaking sap coming from trees. Actually this has been going on for a week or so. What happens is a fine mist of sap coats things beneath a tree. This is actually called "honeydew," which is a secretion of sucking insects such as aphids. What makes matters worse is a fungus begins growing in the honeydew, making it turn black.

There are two ways to deal with the problem. The first way is to spray the entire tree with a product, such as malathion, to kill the insects. The second way is to move anything portable from under the tree. If you opt for the first option, you need to make sure you can spray the entire tree. The kind of weather predicted will increase aphid numbers at a very great rate.

The end effect on the tree isn't all that great as long as adequate moisture is available. This means a shot of water when it stays dry for a week or more. We'll also be coming up on lawn fertilization time in about a month, so that fertilizer will help the trees as well.

The cicada killer wasps have returned! They are actually considered beneficial insects because they control cicadas. This wasp gets its common name due to the fact that it hunts and supplies its nest chambers with a cicada, which becomes a food source for the young cicada killer. Cicada killers are a nuisance pest, especially when nesting in large numbers in a play area or near the house. People get concerned because the cicada killers resemble giant yellowjackets.

Cicada killers are about 2 inches long and black to red, with yellow banded markings on the abdomen. The head and transparent wings are reddish brown. They are not dangerous, but they are intimidating. Cicada killers are solitary wasps, with the female digging a 6- to 10-inch burrow (1/2 inch in diameter) in the ground. A pile of soil typically surrounds the entrance. The female locates and stings a large insect such as a cicada or katydid and then brings it back to the burrow. She places the insect into a chamber and lays an egg on it; sometimes she puts two in a burrow but lays an egg on only one. She then covers the burrow, digs another, and repeats the process. The egg hatches into a grublike, legless larva that consumes the paralyzed insect. Full-grown larvae overwinter in the burrow, pupate in the spring, and emerge as an adult during the summer, usually in July and August.

Cicada killers are unlikely to sting a person. Wasp and bee stingers are modified egg-laying devices (ovipositors), so males are not able to sting. Females may sting if crushed, either by being stepped on with bare feet or grabbed with bare hands.

Cicada killers are more common in areas with bare soil, so mulching, planting ground covers, or putting down sod can reduce problems. Applying permethrin or Sevin (some suggest the Sevin dust gives better control) to the burrowed area should kill females in high traffic areas. Once females are gone, males leave. In home yards, sandboxes can be covered with a tarp when not in use, as this deters the wasps (and also keep cats out). Sand below swings, jungle gyms, or other playground equipment is a popular site for the cicada killer. Raking the sand may discourage the wasps, or you could use mulch instead of the sand. In extreme nuisance situations, treatment of burrowing areas with a pyrethroid insecticide or carbaryl may reduce problems.

Well not a week has passed, and an insect similar in appearance to the Japanese beetle has made its annual appearance. No, you don't have Japanese beetles that have supersized themselves. That insect is the Green June Bug. These beetles are much larger than either June bugs or Japanese beetles. Most people are concerned that they have bumble bees because of the buzzing sound the beetles make when flying.

Green June Bugs are also called fig eaters. This is because they can eat soft fleshed fruits such as grapes, plums, peaches, and apricots. In their larval stage they are a grub, but don't do a lot of turf damage like the normal June bug. They tend to be in high organic matter places such as flower beds, gardens, compost piles, and under shrubs.

Most of Illinois has experienced excessive rains, which have resulted in waterlogged soils and flooding. Logan County has certainly been no exception, with another round of four inches or more common. It is important to understand what is happening to plants growing in these conditions, and what to expect later. It is a wait-and-see situation. Many herbaceous plants are experiencing injury symptoms now. Visible injury symptoms on trees and shrubs may not occur for a year or more. Following is a discussion about flooded and water soaked plants, based on an article done by Rhonda Ferree several years ago.

Injury symptoms, which vary according to several factors, include decreased growth of shoots and roots, decreased transpiration rate, yellowing leaves, twisting of leaves, leaf drop, death of roots, increased susceptibility to attack by predators and pathogens, absence of fruiting, and death.

The main reason injury occurs is related to oxygen availability in the soil. In flooded or waterlogged soils, oxygen diffuses slowly and reduces in concentration to a few percent or zero. As oxygen is excluded from roots, there is decreased aerobic root respiration, root growth, transpiration, and translocation.

Although survival is directly related to species' tolerance of waterlogged soils, other factors are important—including the soil type; the time, duration, and depth of the water; the state of the floodwater; and the age and size of woody plants.

Tolerant species, such as baldcypress, littleleaf linden, redtwig dogwood, mulberry, silver maple, and willow, can live on sites in which the soil is saturated for indefinite periods during the growing season.

Moderately tolerant species, such as green ash, hawthorns, honey locust, pin oak, red maple, river birch, sweetgum, and sycamore, can stand saturated soil for a few weeks to several months during the growing season, but these species die if waterlogging persists or reoccurs for several consecutive years.

Weakly tolerant species, such as American holly, balsam fir, black walnut, burr oak, catalpa, hackberry, Douglas fir, eastern cottonwood, and red oak, can stand relatively short periods of soil saturation—a few days to a few weeks—during the growing season, but they die if waterlogging persists for longer periods.

Intolerant species, such as American beech, black locust, crabapples, eastern hemlock, flowering dogwood, paper birch, pines, redbud, spruces, sugar maple, tuliptree, white oak, and yews, die if they are subjected to short periods of 1 or 2 weeks of soil saturation during the growing season. White pines and burning bushes are among the most sensitive, with saturation for as little as two days can cause root death, followed by plant death.

Unfortunately, little can be done to prevent damage to plants growing in waterlogged soils. If a woody plant shows injury symptoms, such as leaf drop, do not immediately replace it. Some plants will show initial injury symptoms and then recover. Many woody and herbaceous plants, including turf areas, will not recover. Be patient. Whether your plants are simply waterlogged or actually growing in flood areas, it will take a while to see the full extent of plant damage.

It seems like the tomato is the one plant that just about everybody tries to grow. Some people grow large amounts, while others plant one or two in containers. At any rate, the calls and samples have started coming in to the office already. Most of the samples have spots, brown leaves, and dropping leaves, or all of the above. Several diseases hit tomatoes, but two of the more common ones are early blight and seporia leaf spot. Blossom end rot seems to have been running rampant on early tomatoes as well.

Early blight, also know as Alternaria leaf spot, can affect plants at any stage of development. All above ground parts are susceptible. The most characteristic symptom of early blight are spreading spots, ¼ to ½ inch in diameter that form on lower or older leaves. These spots have dark edges and they are usually brown to black in the center. These spots frequently merge forming irregular blotches. Concentric rings often form creating a 'target' or 'bulls-eye' effect. Affected leaves develop yellow areas around the lesions. Spotted leaves soon turn yellow, whither and drop off. The fungus may cause lesions on the fruit around the stem end and shoulder. The lesion is usually dark brown to black, up to an inch in diameter, and with distinct concentric rings.

Septoria leaf spot can also affect plants at any stage of development. Numerous small, water-soaked spots first appear on the lower leaves. These spots soon become circular to angular with dark margins and grayish centers often bearing one or more tiny black bodies called pycnidia which are spore-bearing structures. Individual lesions are seldom more than ⅛ inch in diameter and are usually quite numerous on an infected leaf. Heavily diseased leaves turn yellow, wither and drop off in large numbers, starting at the base of the plant. Defoliation can be severe during prolonged periods of warm, wet weather.

As for what to do, here is the checklist: First, keep ripe fruits picked off the plants. Second, don't work around tomatoes when they are wet. Next, you can try and improve air circulation, but if your tomatoes are severely affected you won't want to lose any more leaves. And the final step for this year is to try a fungicide. Mancozeb is probably the recommended one, but it is very hard to find. The other options are Daconil and maneb, which are easier to find but probably won't give you as good of control. The final step for future years is to practice at least a three year rotation, with good sanitation in the garden.

Blossom end rot is a non-pathogenic disease that is very common during extended dry periods. It begins as light tan water-soaked lesion on the blossom end of the fruit. The lesions enlarge and turn black and leathery. This can drastically lower the yield and lower marketability of the fruits. Fluctuating soil moisture supply during the dry periods, and low calcium levels in the fruit are the major causal factors. Control of blossom end rot consists of providing adequate moisture from fruit formation to maturity, and use of mulch (grass clippings, plastic, straw, shredded newspapers, or plastic) to conserve moisture. Avoid frequent shallow watering. Water deep and then wait five or more days before watering again. Proper mulching increases the number of days between watering, and evens out the moisture supply.

Everyone who thought we had escaped the Japanese beetle attack this year may have to rethink that. The beetles are running a week or two behind schedule, due to the cool spring. A few beetles have shown up in the area. Whether these are local hatches or tag-a-longs from southern areas doesn't much matter. They are coming.

Japanese beetle adults have a 1/2 to 3/4 inch long body with copper colored wing covers and a shiny metallic green head. A key characteristic is prominent white tufts of hair along their sides. They also have an overwhelming appetite for your favorite rose. Adults feed in herds on many deciduous trees, shrubs and vines such as linden, Japanese maple, sycamore, birch, elm, and grape. They generally do not feed on dogwood, forsythia, holly and lilac. Japanese beetle adults feed on flowers and fruits and skeletonize leaves by eating the leaf tissue between the veins. Feeding is normally in the upper portions of trees. Beetles prefer plants in direct sun, so heavily wooded areas are rarely attacked.

Adults can be with us until mid August. The life cycle is similar to a June bug, only it runs a few weeks later. After mating females lay eggs in turf which hatch into grubs in August. Grubs feed on plant roots until cold weather drives them deeper into the soil. Adults emerge in summer of the following year.

The bacterial control, milky spore sold as Doom or Grub Attack, is frequently recommended to control Japanese beetle grubs. In our area milky spore is generally not recommended, since it controls only Japanese beetle grubs and not our predominate lawn grub, the annual white grub. Also Japanese beetle grubs must already be infesting the turf for milky spore to work effectively. Pesticides commonly used for lawn grub control will also control Japanese beetle grubs.

Controlling Japanese beetle grubs does not significantly reduce the number of adult beetles the following year. The beetles are good fliers and easily fly a couple miles in a single flight. Evidence suggests that adult beetles are attracted to previously damaged leaves. Therefore reducing feeding damage now can result in less feeding damage in the future.

Generally pesticide sprays of cabaryl sold as Sevin can reduce damage for up to two weeks, but four to seven days is more likely. Sevin is toxic to bees. Synthetic pyrethroids can also be effective, but tend to break down quickly with extreme heat. These would include permethrin and bifenthrin. The Japanese beetle repellent made from Neem has not been shown to be effective. Picking beetles off by hand every couple of days may be just as effective as spraying. When disturbed, the beetles fold their legs and drop to the ground. Covering plants with floating row covers can protect prized roses and ripening fruit. Japanese beetle traps are not recommended since they can actually increase damage by attracting more than they kill.

A number of birds such as grackles, cardinals and meadowlarks feed on adult beetles. Two native predator insects and a couple of introduced parasites may help to keep Japanese beetle populations in check. Protect natural enemies by keeping the use of conventional pesticides to a minimum. Although damage looks devastating, Japanese beetle feeding rarely kills plants. Therefore, confine control of beetles to shrubs and small trees near main building entrances and other important landscape locations where damage is obvious. Protecting a prize rose bush, or a newly transplanted linden tree is a good idea.

In keeping with the insect theme, potato leafhopper numbers have exploded this last week. This is the small wedge-shaped, light green insect that seems to just fog around security and patio lights. They are not only a nuisance, but they can cause damage to a wide variety of plants.

Potatoes are the first plant that comes to mind when we talk about potato leafhoppers (must be something about the name), but many other plants ranging from beans to trees can be affected. You may be wondering what kind of damage a few little leafhoppers can do, especially since they suck sap from plants and aren't that big in size.

Leafhoppers suck sap and then inject a toxin back into the plant. Along the same lines as humans getting a mosquito bite - it's the extra that's injected back in that causes the injury. Symptoms of leafhopper damage start as yellow "v" shaped areas on the tips of leaves. These areas turn brown or black and then fall out leaving a "v" shaped hole on the tip of the leaf. This is a symptom, but not the only injury. Large numbers of leafhoppers can kill potato and other plants.

Controls for leafhoppers are warranted with very low numbers. In alfalfa fields, it is recommended to treat when 2 leafhoppers are caught in a sweep net in alfalfa over a foot tall. Garden treatment options for potatoes include: Sevin and rotenone as common insecticide choices available to homeowners. Most trees and shrubs can be treated with Sevin, permethrin, or bifenthrin.

A lot has happened in a week with our trees. The maples continue to show increasing leaf drop. Sycamores have been hit with a vengeance, and leaves have been falling like rain for the last week. Other good quality hardwoods, such as ash, are also showing symptoms.

The symptoms are dead material between the leaf veins, along the leaf edges, or dead tips of leaves. There are also times when the disease affects buds and twigs. In the leaf stage, the disease only affects leaves currently out. If damage to leaves results in enough dropped leaves, the tree will shoot another set within four to six weeks. All we're out is the energy the tree spent in pushing out another set of leaves. Of course, we also had a freeze that caused the loss of leaves on many trees. What I'm getting at is trees have spent quite a bit of energy already this year. We need to do what we can to replace nutrients and keep moisture available.

Moisture will be needed to with keep those affected trees in a vigorous growing condition. Usual watering rates are an inch a week, and rainfall can supply part or all of that. Fertilizer applied to lawn area or trees is the other part of the equation. Fertilizer should be applied at the lawn rate (supply one pound each of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium per 1000 square foot of drip area), if you haven't fertilized the lawn area around the trees. This would translate to about 10 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer or eight pounds of 12-12-12 or 13-13-13 per 1000 square feet.

It is time to take action against the notorious oystershell scale, because the eggs are now hatching into young crawlers that are extremely susceptible to insecticide applications. However, as the scales mature later in the season, they are more difficult to control because they form an impenetrable protective covering. Oystershell scale has a wide host range, including ash, birch, dogwood, elm, hemlock, maple, poplar, privet, walnut, and willow.

Eggs hatch into young, creamy white to brown crawlers that are active from May through June. The crawlers locate a place to settle and then use their piercing–sucking mouthparts to remove plant fluids, which causes leaf yellowing, plant stunting, and possibly death. Branches or twigs totally encrusted with oystershell scale eventually die.

The Logan County Master Gardeners will present their "Thru the Garden Gate" garden walk this Saturday, June 21 from 9:00 a.m. until 3:00 p.m. Six area gardens will be featured on the walk this year. Tickets are $8 in advance or $10 at the gardens. Advance tickets are available at the Logan County Extension Office, Graue, Inc., Lincoln Antique and Furniture, or any Logan County Master Gardener.

For those of us with linden trees, that are now pollinating, we probably have seen the soldier beetles. They look like pale lightning bugs, without the light. Following is some in-depth information on the beetles to give us a little clearer picture of what they do.

Soldier beetles, also known as leatherwings, get their name from the soft, cloth-like wing covers, which when brightly colored are reminiscent of uniforms. These beetles are elongate, soft-bodied and about 1/2 inch long. Colors of soldier beetles vary from yellow to red with brown or black wings or trim. A common and easily-spotted species is the Pennsylvania leatherwing, which is yellow with one large black spot on each wing.

Soldier beetles resemble lightning bugs but do not have light-producing organs. Another group of beetles that may be confused with soldier beetles are the blister beetles, which are pests, but blister beetles have a square-shaped head and a very visible "neck."

Adult females lay their eggs in clusters in the soil. The larvae are velvety, covered with dense bristles, and have antenna-like projections on their head. Most larvae are carnivorous, feeding on insects in the soil. Larvae overwinter in damp soil and debris or loose bark. The adults are also predators, eating caterpillars, eggs, aphids, and other soft-bodied insects. They will alternatively eat nectar and pollen if no insects are around. They do not damage plant foliage. Adults are often found on flowers such as goldenrod, where they lie in wait for prey, feed on pollen and mate.

Young bagworms are present at this time. Spray after eggs have all hatched (guessing this week) to control them. Sevin, Thuricide, or one of the pyrethroids will work.

Pruning evergreens is done about the end of June. This applies to both broadleaf and traditional evergreens. Pine, juniper, yew, arborvitae, spruce, holly, rhododendron, azalea, and other evergreens should all be pruned around the end of June. This keeps new growth from getting too rank this growing season, but still allows new growth that does occur to harden off before the cold month this fall and winter. Pruning can be done for shaping or size containment.

Check tomato plants for signs of septoria leaf blight. If you see brown areas between the veins and along tips of leaves, especially on the lower leaves, you may want to start a fungicide spray program. This is the disease that has caused leaves to drop off of plants the last couple of years, and it is present very early again this year. Fungicides such as mancozeb, maneb, or Daconil will have provide some control of the fungus.

Also on tomato plants, if you haven't mulched them yet you may want to do so. The mulch evens out soil temperature and moisture. This is a great assistance when preventing blossom end rot on the fruits as they begin to form. You may use straw, grass clippings, or any commercial mulch material. Apply about four inches deep and hopefully this will help prevent those leathery bottom tomatoes.

Keep spraying, or dusting, cucurbits and potatoes. Different things on each, but the potato leaf hopper populations have increased, and the beetles that transmit the wilts on cucurbits are present. Sevin and bifenthrin are the mainstays for these programs.

Japanese beetles will soon be emerging. Protect your favorite roses or apple tree with a cover spray of permethrin, bifenthrin, or Sevin liquid.

After some very severe infestations of bagworms the past several years, the calls have been coming in all year on the correct treatment times for bagworms this year. Year-in and year-out, the correct treatment time for bagworms is June 15.You can mark this date on your calendar for next year and be within a few days of the correct treatment time. With a very cool spring, a week later may be a possibility. The opposite is true for a very warm spring. The idea is to have all the eggs hatched before treatment, but not wait until the bagworms are almost mature.

The next problem is what to use. The traditional standby has been Sevin, but the B.t. products such as Dipel and Thuricide have really taken their share of the market the past several years. The B.t. products have several good points including safety to mammals and toxicity to larger bagworms. Since they are bacteria that affect only the larvae of moths and butterflies, it does take a while for the bacteria to build up to the point where they can kill the bagworm. If you are in doubt about whether you have bagworms, check your trees and shrubs around June 15. You can actually see the small bags as the larvae build them. They become very noticeable at about 1/16 of an inch long. Treat bagworms early, since larger ones are more difficult to control. The spring we have had is probably going to add a week to the timing, meaning the last week or so of June should be ideal.

Most people think that bagworms only affect evergreens. While evergreens may be their preferred host group, bagworms have a huge number of potential hosts. Through the years I have seen them on oak trees, grape vines, apples, and about any other growing thing you can think of. Make sure to check the tops of tall trees. An infestation may get started in a tall tree simply because you can't reach the top when applying a control. In that case, you'll have to use a taller ladder.

After several years of relatively few problems of junipers and arborvitae, we've had a resurgence in the shoot blights. The most common is phomopsis tip blight, which affects the new growth. New growth is susceptible until it loses its lighter color. Control consists of removing infected areas, and spraying new growth with protectant fungicides until it gets the dark green color. Symptoms are a "shepherd's crook" shape to the dead tips and the small black dots of the fungal fruiting bodies

West Nile Virus (WNV) has quickly, and unfortunately, become a household phrase. With Illinois leading the nation in deaths from the virus, it behooves us all to take proper precautions. The excess moisture in much of the Midwest has led to one of the worst springs for mosquitoes in recent history. This is a more full-blown accounting of WNV.

WNV was first isolated in Uganda, Africa. It can harm humans, birds, and other animals. It is transmitted by infected mosquitoes, primarily the northern house mosquito. The mosquito becomes infected after biting wild birds that are the primary host of the virus. The mosquito is actually able to transmit the virus after 10-14 days after biting the infected bird.

The mosquito life cycle has four life stages (egg, larvae, pupa, and adult). The female mosquito lays eggs on water or moist soil. Most of the larvae hatch after 48 hours and the larvae and pupae live in the water. The females need a blood meal before they can lay eggs, so only the females bite. They bite every few days during their adult lives, which may last several weeks.

The first symptoms of WNV are often the deaths of susceptible bird species such as crows and blue jays. We have had bird deaths in the county many of the past summers, and. I'm also sure that this year will be no exception. The State Health Department is the agency in charge of testing birds for WNV.

Symptoms of WNV are rare in humans. A small percentage of people do develop fever, headaches, body aches, swollen lymph glands, and a body rash. Encephalitis develops in less than 1% of infected people, and this group can have headache, high fever, neck stiffness, tremors, and other symptoms.

Preventing mosquitoes is a first step. Homeowners can best accomplish this by eliminating standing water. Tires and old containers are obvious places to start, drill holes in the bottom of recycling containers, clean clogged gutters, don't allow stagnant water in anything such as birdbaths, change landscape slopes to eliminate standing water, and use larvacides in standing water that can't be eliminated. B.t. Israeli is the strain that is effective against mosquito larvae – not the B.t. variety commonly used on trees and gardens!

Also protect yourself from bites. Mosquitoes can travel up to three miles from their breeding sites! Make sure that screens and doors are tight, use proper outside lighting such as fluorescent lights, stay indoors at dawn and dusk when mosquitoes are most active, wear long-sleeved shirt and long pants when you must go outside, and use insect repellents properly applied. Exposed skin should be sparingly treated with a repellent containing up to 30% DEET (up to 10% for children), and make sure to treat thin clothing as well (since mosquitoes can bite through the thin clothing).