"Fall is for planting." That's one of the slogans for the fall tree planting campaign. Fall does work well, particularly for potted stock. Make sure you follow the recommended size hole, etc. For freshly dug stock, you've removed about half the root system by digging. One of the biggest chores is to select what to plant.

Mature size, adaptable to the area, adaptable to the site conditions, color, flowering, fruit (or no fruit), and other factors all go into choosing what to plant. Life has become more difficult the last few years for making a selection. The top large trees over the last 25 years have included pin oak, seedless green ash, purple leaf plum, Bradford pear, and red maple. Let's put it this way, there have been problems to some degree with about everything that has become popular.

Pin oaks speak for themselves. They like really acid soil pH levels, otherwise they get a condition called iron chlorosis. Once chlorosis begins, a general decline of the tree sets in. This brings on insect problems from borers. The seedless green ash developed decline and dieback problems in some specimens, while ones in the immediate vicinity did extremely well. Ash trees in general aren't on many planting orders because of the emerald ash borer. Purple leaf plum and Bradford pear took off for a few years, but they have problems with insects and diseases as well. Red maples have been the most widely planted trees for several years now. They aren't perfect either. They are susceptible to verticillium wilt, and many have developed dead trunk areas from damage to the trunk by rodents and other injuries. There have been so many red maples planted, we have probably set ourselves up for large scale problems one of these years. Just remember the American elms. When the same specie of tree is planted less than 50 feet apart all over everywhere, a problem can go from one to another in short order.

When selecting trees or shrubs, check out the characteristics. There are good selection criteria pages off our webpage at www.extension.uiuc.edu/logan . Then go to the horticulture page and select from tree selection or shrub selection. You can get additional information on pests, select by size, and find out other information. Another consideration is the susceptibility to Japanese beetles. You can drive down any street or road, and pick out the linden trees. There are many trees and shrubs seldom attacked by Japanese beetles. These include: boxelder, red maple, silver maple, boxwood, shagbark hickory, flowering dogwood, persimmon, euonymus (all species), white ash, green ash, holly (all species), butternut, tuliptree, American sweetgum, magnolia (all species), red mulberry, white poplar, common pear, white oak, scarlet oak, red oak, black oak, American elder, and common lilac. Of course, this list may not contain many species you feel are desirable.

I have told some to consider a gingko tree, but make sure you get a male. The fruit of the female tree will send you searching for skunks to cover the odor. Gingko trees are prehistoric, so they have had good survival rates. Unfortunately if everyone plants gingkos, we'll probably develop problems with them as well.

The main points are to select well adapted trees for your site, plant them properly, take care of them properly, and try to prevent problems. Good luck in you selection process. Next week I'll go into fall care in more depth.

Logan County Extension Office

The number of Asian lady bugs and millipedes has exploded in the last week. The lady bugs are seeking food (mainly aphids) and warmth. The lady bug population is usually behind the curve of the food source, and that has occurred again this year. Area soybean fields developed fairly large numbers of soybean aphids, and the lady bug population has increased to feed on them. Of course the aphid population was on the decline as the lady bug population was on the rise. That leaves lots of lady bugs on the hunt for aphids. We also had aphids in the trees (they caused the sticky sap drips). The Asian lady bug warms itself in its native habitat on cliff sides. Without many cliffs in our area, the insects cluster on the side of houses and other structures to catch the sun. They are beneficial insects, but a real nuisance.

Millipedes are different. They are not even insects, and they like damp, warm places. They feed on decaying organic matter, and are usually found under mulch, compost piles, and leaf piles. Keeping these items from around the house foundation will help prevent at least some of these from getting in the house.

Foundation sprays will help prevent both insects from getting into the house. Bifenthrin and permethrin are the most commonly used. If you have huge numbers of lady bugs that prevent you from enjoying the outdoors, treatments of congregating areas with one of these products will reduce their numbers. Once in the home, sprays of aerosol products for flying insects and the vacuum cleaner are the best options.

For all those that decorate for Halloween and Thanksgiving, it's time to select that orange globe to set out by a corn shock or to carve into a jack-o-lantern. With some of the heavy frosts we've had, it's critical to check pumpkins over carefully before purchasing. Following are some of the cardinal rules for selecting and keeping pumpkins:

· Choose a pumpkin with a stem and never carry it by the stem. Pumpkins without a stem will not last long.

· Select a pumpkin with a flat bottom, so it will stand upright

· Avoid pumpkins with holes, cuts or soft spots. These areas will rot.

· Light colored pumpkins are easier to carve because the skin is not as hard as darker orange colored ones, but they will not keep as well.

· Wash the pumpkin with warm water and let it dry before carving. Use of a small amount of dishwashing soap in the warm water may help extend the life of the pumpkin.

· To make the pumpkin last longer, keep it in a cool place until ready to carve. After carving, coat the cuts with petroleum jelly.

· Carving should only be done three days ahead of Halloween. After cutting, the pumpkin will deteriorate rapidly.

This time of year, we can see mole runs in the yard. We can also see where skunks or raccoons have been digging in certain areas. What are they after? Well, they're after food. And food to these critters means grubs.

Grubs have been active since mid-summer. Normal treatment time is around the Logan County Fair. The longer we wait, the larger the grubs get. In particular, moles and skunks can smell the grubs and go after them for a meal. It is good to get rid of the grubs, but sometimes the cure is worse than the original problem. It is still possible to treat for grubs, but don't expect the same percentage of control you would have had two months ago.

The best way to stop moles and skunks is to get rid of the food source. Many of the trapping methods for moles don't work very well. And skunks, well you can just figure that one out for yourself. Moles like grubs and worms to eat, so poison peanuts aren't probably going to be very effective. There are some new soft baits that are more effective, but much more costly. Traps can be effective if properly set, and the scissor or loop type might be more effective than the plunger type.

Logan County Extension Office

It seems like fall has snuck up on us. It's been a very warm and dry, but the weather is changing. It is easiest to notice the evenings are much shorter, and we have less time to do the things we need to do in the fall. Following is a list of things to get into your schedule over the next few weeks, and in some cases not to do.

Do a good job of raking up old fruit from under trees. This old fruit harbors many diseases and insects that could cause you problems for next year, if allowed to lay under the tree. Don't stop with the ground clean?up, but also remove mummified fruit and small fruit from the trees and dispose of in another location.

We are now at the "breaking point" for the recommended time to seed grass seed. If you want to try it later, you may have excellent luck or have no luck at all. The next recommended seeding time is mid?March to the 1^st of April. Figure on about two pounds of seed per 1000 square feet of lawn for an overseeding, and four pounds per 1000 square feet for a newly tilled area. Hopefully the temperature and moisture situation will be more favorable than it has been earlier.

Now is a great time to go after those broadleaf weeds in the lawn. Make sure that you select the correct product, use the proper amount, and do not treat areas containing fall seeded grass. The rule of thumb is that you need to mow newly seeded grass at least 3 times before treating that area for broadleaf weeds. This means you don't try and do both in the same fall or spring seeding season. Broadleaf weeds that are perennial are sending large amounts of material to the roots to enable them to come up again next year, and translocated herbicides will be sent to the roots as well. Be warned this also means perennials such as shrubs are in the same boat.

Pruning chores for plants with a high sap flow should be done in December, while other pruning chores are best done in early February for deciduous plants, and in June for evergreens. Flowering shrubs are best done after they flower. Pruning now is often a recipe for greater chance of damage to plants.

Yellowjackets

The fall festival season brings about the recurrence of the yellowjackets. Yellowjackets are most frequently encountered when they scavenge for food. Their habit of feeding on nectar and sugar can create a nuisance. Yellowjackets are attracted to open cups and cans of soda and other sweet liquids. They are also attracted to open cans of garbage, bright flowery clothing, and floral scented perfumes. All outside garbage cans must be kept clean and well covered, to reduce yellowjacket problems. Contact with the wasps can be decreased by reducing these attractions at picnics and other outings. In situations closer to home, the elimination of overripe fruit from gardens and orchards will dramatically decrease the number of scavenging yellowjackets. Holding gatherings indoors and using screens on windows will also help avoid yellowjacket problems.

There are a variety of traps on the market that claim to attract yellowjackets. These traps are baited with the scent of rotting fruit or other odors equally as appetizing to the yellowjackets. It is questionable whether these traps can out-compete the natural and man-made attractants described above. However, it is certain that through proper sanitation and removal of natural and man-made attractants, yellowjacket contact can be reduced. However, in situations where the potential for repeated contact exists, other management methods may be necessary. These traps can also attract more yellowjackets if placed close to the home or patio, so place them to attract the insects away from where you'll be.

Logan County Extension Office

Many signs of fall are reädily apparent. There are flocks of blackbirds, dog day cicadas singing, and of course those gossamer spider parachutes everywhere. Fall has other signs pertaining to gardening as well.

This particular fall is starting very dry. In fact, if you haven't been watering a little bit most things are done for all practical purposes. The dry weather, coupled with the heat, has served to bake vegetables and flowers alike. Water and mulch have been the saving graces of this year.

Many of the existing plants may yet be saved. Water and mulch may yet bring them around. Many of the flowers would be well served by dead heading or simply cutting back severely. Other plants, such as tomatoes, have had diseases and insects to help cause problems for them. The diseases, such as septoria leaf blight, dry out leaves from the bottom of the plant up. Once infected, only a fungicide such as mancozeb will help. Long-term rotation of more than three years in an area with no tomatoes will also help this situation.

Many of the insects, and their relatives, have been commonplace and troublesome this year. Problems such as aphids, mites, and whiteflies tend to do the most damage in a dry year. Part of the reason is they suck plant sap. Sap tends to be in shorter supply in dry weather, and especially dry, hot weather. Plant sap also becomes slightly more concentrated in sugars during the type of summer we've had. A little bit less water makes the sap a "super fuel" for the insects and mites feeding on it. Of course, hot weather speeds the life cycle of these insects as well. Control can be rather simple in the garden and flower beds. Insecticidal soap does a great job on most of the small insects, of course you have to get the soap on them. Whiteflies pose more of a challenge because of their mobility, but insecticidal soap is one of the best options. Other products such as oil of neem, and many of the synthetic pyrethroids should also do a good job.

Fall Gardening is also an option. Best bets this late in the season are leaf lettuce, mustard greens, radish, and spinach. Everything depends on the weather. Of course! If moisture and temperatures hang in there for the fall, you can replace the grocery store items with home grown for at least a couple of weeks. Many times, fall seeded spinach will survive the winter. This may give you an exceptionally early start for next year.

We can also plant spring flowering bulbs. We may be a little on the early side, but it takes time to plan, obtain, and plant bulbs. It's always better to have a bulb in the ground than to try and hold them for another growing season if the weather turns sour on us. Pay particular attention to some of the less common bulbs or colors. Summer flowering bulbs should generally be dug after the first killing frost, since they aren't hardy enough to survive the winter in the ground.

Enjoy the fall weather while it is here. Fall is a great time of year, and we all know what is coming next.

Logan County Extension Office