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University of Illinois Extension Cook County
The Green Line

http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/greenline/

For more information, please contact:
Cook County Unit
Headquarters Office
4801 Southwick Drive
Suite 100
Matteson, IL 60443
Phone: 708-481-0111 / Fax: 708-481-4151
E-mail: cook_hdq@extension.uiuc.edu

Fall 2005

Emerald Ash Borer

An insect new to North America, emerald ash borer, Agrilus planipennis, attacks and kills healthy ash trees. It is closely related to the bronze birch borer, so its damage, appearance, exit holes and biology are similar to that pest's except that it attacks healthy ashes rather than birches in at least the early stages of decline. Its native range includes China, Korea, Japan, Mongolia, the Russian Far East and Taiwan. In the United States, it was first identified in the Detroit, Michigan area in July 2002. Since then, it has also been found in other areas of Michigan, the Toronto, Canada area, areas of Ohio and other locations outside the Midwest.

Adult beetles are 1/3 to ½ inch long and elongate, with metallic emerald green wing covers on a bronze body. They emerge primarily in late spring through 1/8 inch wide, D-shaped holes in the bark of ashes. Adult beetles are present through June into mid-July. After mating, the female inserts her eggs, one or two at a time, between bark flakes.

Eggs hatch into larvae that tunnel through the bark into the cambium, where the water, nutrient and sugar-conducting tissues, the xylem and phloem, are located. The larvae are white, elongate and flattened, growing to about 1-1/2 inches long. The larvae pupate in the cambium and emerge the following spring.

The larvae create slender, winding tunnels that frequently wind back and forth, creating a series of S shapes that run into one another. Just as commonly, the tunnels meander under the bark with no particular pattern. As the tunnels become numerous, they effectively girdle the branch, causing the branch to die due to lack of water and nutrients.

Emerald ash borer attacks at the top of the tree first, causing dieback of the top. Attack continues down the tree, resulting in the gradual death of branches and the tree dies in 2 to 3 years. The bark on attacked trees separates from the trunk, allowing the larval tunnels to be easily seen. Once the tree dies to the ground, suckers form around the base of the trunk.

It is thought that emerald ash borer is most likely to enter Illinois by people bringing in young ash trees from infested areas or bringing in firewood from those areas. To help prevent this, billboards asking people not to take firewood from Michigan have been placed along interstate highways leaving the state.

Where emerald ash borer is found, quarantine is set up. Infested trees are removed, as well as all ashes near them. In Ohio infestations, all ash trees have been removed in a ½ mile radius around infested trees. In the Windsor, Ontario, Canada area, an ash-free zone 5 to 6 miles wide has been established across the peninsula to stop borer movement inland. The difference in the ash-free areas is based partly on evolving research. It was initially thought that emerald ash borer adults would fly only about 1/4 mile to a new host. Very recent research has found that they can fly at least 5 miles; however, it is unclear how often that will occur. Research studies are ongoing on this and many other aspects of the emerald ash borer.

Several insecticides to control this insect have been found through research primarily conducted by Michigan State University. Because the adults are out for only a few weeks (instead of the several month's duration that occurs with Asian long-horned beetle flight), foliar and bark sprays are effective, as well as injected insecticides. This makes it likely that if emerald ash borer is found in Illinois, a combination of quarantine, tree removal and insecticide application would be used in and around infested areas.

If you see emerald ash borer or its damage, contact your local University of Illinois Extension office at 773-233-0476 or the Illinois Department of Agriculture at (800)641-3934.

Source: Charles Helm, Phil Nixon, James E. Appleby, University of Illinois Extension

Garden Tips

September2005

Edible

Sign up for the Chicago Master Gardener Program. Classes start in January at Garfield Park Conservatory. Apply online at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/chicago/mg or call 773-233- 0476.

Pot up rosemary and chives for the indoor garden.

Watch for the annual arrival of the multi-colored Asian lady beetle. These are the good guys. They eat scales and aphids. In the fall, they are looking for a place to spend the winter, preferably your home. They will also lounge on the side of your house by the hundreds. They will not reproduce indoors. Best control indoors is to vacuum them up.

Ornamental

Bring houseplants indoors. Rinse the leaves and check the plants for any signs of insects and disease. Isolate the plants from the rest of your houseplant collection for two to three weeks.

Dig up dahlias, caladiums, cannas, gladioli and tuberous begonias before the first hard frost. Our average date of first frost is around mid-October. Store in vermiculite or peat moss under cool temperatures.

Select spring blooming bulbs for fall planting. Select bulbs that are firm and free of soft spots. Larger bulbs will produce larger blooms.

Fertilize the lawn with a controlled release nitrogen fertilizer. Controlled release fertilizers release small amounts of fertilizer over a long period of time. This provides more uniform growth. If conditions are dry at the time of application, water the lawn.

Control creeping charlie and dandelions with a broadleaf weed killer. Control is more effective in the fall than the spring.

Plant trees and shrubs now. The hole should be two times the diameter of the root ball, but at the same depth. Keep the plant watered until the soil freezes.

Watch for fall color. Some trees because of a summer dry spell and our unusually cool summer temperatures started turning two weeks ago. This could mean an early fall color peak in Northern Illinois. Our normal peak is around mid-October. For more information about fall foliage, check out the web site, the Miracle of Fall at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/fallcolor

Start a compost pile with plant debris and leaves. A good mix is two parts grass clippings to one part leaves. Layer this material in 5 to 7-inch layers with a handful of soil. Soil contains microbes, which help to breakdown the plant material.

October 2005

Edible

Prepare to avoid frost damage. Our first frost usually occurs around mid-October. It is often followed by a few weeks of good growing weather. Protect tender veggies like tomatoes and peppers with layers of newspapers, blankets, tarps, sheets or floating row covers. Remove the coverings soon after sunrise. Vegetables like cabbage, broccoli, kale, collards and turnips can withstand light frosts and the frost will improve their flavor.

Remove plant debris from the vegetable garden after frost. If plants were not diseased, they can be dug into the soil. Leaving dead plants in the garden will provide a home for over wintering insects. Also add a 3 to 4 inch layer of other organic matter and dig in. Your garden will be ready for planting in the spring.

Saving seeds from your favorite tomato can be fun and will save you money, but unless the tomato is an old-fashioned variety, the new plant will not be as flavorful, vigorous and disease resistant as the parent plant. So avoid saving seeds from hybrid plants. Saving Seeds factsheet available.

Choose a pumpkin for Halloween from a local pumpkin farm. Choose a pumpkin with a good stem; it will keep better. A pumpkin that is light in weight for its size will have less "meat" making carving easier. For a listing of local farms call 773-233-0476 or check out the Pumpkins and More web site at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/pumpkins.

Ornamental

Stop raking those leaves and mulch them into the turf. Mowing over the leaves will chop them into little pieces, which will filter into the turf. University research has shown that mulching the leaves into the lawn will not harm the grass and will improve the soil. Chopped leaves can also be added to the compost pile or dug into garden soil.

Plant spring flowering bulbs now. Bulbs can be planted until the ground is frozen. Planting early will insure good root development. Root growth will occur until soil temps drop below 40 degrees F.

Use sod to repair any dead patches in the lawn. Seeding the areas now may not allow the newly germinated turf time to become established in order to survive the winter. The sod should knit and grow quickly in the cool fall weather. Keep the sod moist until it is established. This takes about three weeks.

Make a late fall application of a soluble nitrogen fertilizer to the lawn. A late fall application will promote good root development and will keep the lawn green longer. It will also help provide an early spring green up. Make the application while the grass is still green.

Watch for the Asian lady beetle invasion. They will show up in large numbers on the sides of homes with sunny exposures. The beetles will enter the home through cracks and crevices, windows and open doors. They will not reproduce indoors. Avoid the temptation to smash them; they leave a stain. Vacuuming is the best control indoors. Outdoors caulk cracks and crevices.

Dropping of needles from pines, yews, junipers and arborvitae is a natural fall occurrence. Evergreens drop their older needles to allow for new growth. The dropped needles can be used as winter mulch.

Fall Garden Chores

Mid to late October is the time to take care of any garden chores left undone.

If your trees need to be fed, now is a good time to do so. Do it before the ground starts to freeze and the soil temperature is still above 40 degrees. Trees that have canker diseases or Verticillium wilt often need to be fed yearly for many years to encourage more healthy growth.

Healthy trees may need to be fed but not necessarily on a yearly basis.

Fall is also a good time to put down winterizing lawn fertilizer. The grass should still be green but no longer growing.

Both the trees and the turf will take the fertilizer up and store it for next spring's growth. It is better not to fertilize or under fertilize than it is to over fertilize. Over fertilizing may cause burning or make the plants more susceptible to some diseases. Be sure to follow all directions and precautions on the fertilizer product label.

Dormant pruning on many shrubs may be done if the plants have been through a freeze or several heavy frosts. Summer blooming shrubs are the plants that should be pruned during their dormancy for maximum health and flowering.

Choose the correct pruning technique depending on the kind of shrub being grown. Single-stem shrubs should be headed back to a bud, branch, side branch or trunk.

Multi-stem plants should be thinned. Remove the stems between one and three inches above the ground to reduce the risk of diseases and insects attacking stumps. Small, twiggy shrubs such as an Anthony Waterer spirea can be cut to the one to three-inch height once every five to eight years. An exception is Potentilla - leave two buds on each stem.

You can also prune spring-blooming shrubs. However, this reduces the number of spring blooms on the shrub if you are thinning and all the flowers if the entire plant is cut to one inch.

Fruit trees and grapes should not be pruned in the fall. It is better to wait until late February or early March.

Large landscape trees can be pruned now. However, if you have to leave the ground to do the pruning or you are removing branches with phone or power lines in them, hire a professional tree trimmer or arborist.

If spring bulbs have not been planted, do so right away so they can start to root before the ground gets too cold. Trees and shrubs may still be planted but there is a greater risk of the plants not surviving the winter.

Mulch the plants with about two to three inches of organic matter to allow more time for the plant to root before the ground gets too cold also. Avoid mounding the mulch up several feet like you see on some highway trees. Wet mulch against a tree trunk can cause trunk damage if it stays too long against the trunk.

Source: James Schuster, University of Illinois Extension

Fall & Winter Greens, Reds & More

There's Always Room Somwhere in the Garden

We're not talking about setting aside a large area for fall. Although if you have that much space to spare, that's fine. All you need is some room amidst existing plants. Consider using available space in your flower garden or mixed border; fill in areas with edibles as you remove tired-looking annuals or prune back perennials. Of course, there is always some room in the vegetable or herb garden.

For fall harvests you can start everything from seed sown directly in the garden. In spring, you can usually find a plethora of starts - cell packs or small potted plants at local nurseries, garden centers and home stores. In summer, you won't find starts; you have to rely on seed you purchased.

Great Greens

Do you enjoy salad and other greens fresh from the garden? In season, they are fabulous, especially cut-and-come-again greens like leaf lettuces, arugula, mustard and others. Yet have you seen the price of mixed greens - often called mesclun - at the grocery store lately? For what you would pay for two weeks worth of salad greens for a family of four, you can buy more than enough seed to keep you in salad all fall and well into winter. Look for greens that you would normally plant in spring before the last frost date - those that can take some cold.

Since these are mostly "foliage plants," look for those that add a dimension of color in addition to "leafy green" when selecting varieties to add to your garden. If you don't segregate ornamentals from edibles, you will want the plants to add as much interest - leaf color, shape, size and plant form - as possible.

Choose from among the many leaf lettuces, including these All-America Selections winners: 'Red Sails' (1985), 'Buttercrunch' (1963), 'Ruby' (1958), and 'Salad Bowl' (1952). Romaines can take the cold; try 'Rouge d'Hiver' and 'Freckles' for good color. Mix in some 'Lollo Rossa,' 'Arctic King,' 'Winter Marvel,' and 'North Pole' for an outstanding winter collection.

Mix It Up

Sow each type of seed separately or create your own personal mesclun blend. You can mix all the seeds together in a bowl and then scatter them on bare soil - thicker than normal. Make an eighteen-inch-wide swath through a garden bed or edge the path leading from the sidewalk to your front door. The greens will come up in a colorful carpet. By the time the plants are a few inches tall they will need thinning. Pull up plants at random for an instant salad of baby greens. There is plenty to share with neighbors who seem to sense when picking time starts - and invite them to come over and help themselves to fresh greens.

Since you will be planting in the heat of summer, sow the seed in a partly shaded spot or provide shade with spun polyester cloth to keep them cooler. Mist lightly during the day to refresh the seedlings and young plants. Otherwise, they require no different care than spring-sown seeds. Growing spinach in the spring can be a challenge, as it doesn't like the heat. In fall, it is happy with the cooling weather. Be sure to avoid any varieties that are labeled "summer" spinach. As with the other plants for fall harvest, sow the seed in a partially shaded area to keep the soil from getting too warm.

To many, the flavor of kale - like Brussels sprouts - is enhanced by frost. For diversity of leaf shape, color (from deep green to blue), size and crunch, choose several kale varieties. Finely curled red-leafed 'Redbor Hybrid', and bluish crinkle-leafed 'Winterbor' are amazingly hardy and can last through winter. 'Lacinata' holds its deep bluish-green leaves upright, while 'Red Russian' with a mauve tinge to the leaves has a more open habit.

Swiss chard is a must-have. Forget about the plain green leaves you knew as a child. Grow 'Bright Lights' (1998 AAS winner) to delight your eyes as well as your palate. With ribs that run the gamut from silver to gold, orange, pink, red and green, a stand of Swiss chard looks like stained glass with the early morning or late afternoon sun glimmering through it. It is so decorative in the garden you don't have to eat it.

Add Some Pizzazz

Other less common, yet more flavorful greens, add spice to the mix. Depending on your taste, include some piquant greens such as arugula and 'Osaka Purple' mustard greens. 'Wrinkled Crinkled Crumpled' cress is unique for its savoyed leaves. Broccoli raab, a sprouting broccoli, (also know by such names as raab, rapa, rapini and spring broccoli) is sumptuous stir-fried in olive oil and garlic, served on pasta.

Other greens add interesting form and color, with their own unique flavors. Mache, (Valerianella locusta) also known as corn salad, has a sweet, nutty flavor. Endive and radicchio have slightly bitter taste. Curly endives, such as 'Tres Fin,' have finely dissected, curly leaves. Oriental greens round out the medley. From mizuna to tatsoi, pac choi, bok choy and komatsuna and their cultivars, there is an assortment of new, vitamin-filled greens to try.

Root for Other Veggies

Radishes grow quickly and add a nice crunch to any dish. 'Easter Egg II' is a mixture of white, plum purple-cherry red and rosy pink skinned radishes. Sow seed every five to seven days for an extended harvest.

Small carrots, such as one-half-inch, round 'Thumbelina' (1992 AAS winner) or 'Mokum', which is one of the best-tasting carrots to pull at "baby" stage, deserve some space. If the temperatures remain cold, cover the plants with at least six inches of natural mulch such as hay, so you can harvest fresh carrots well into winter.

Even if you don't grow 'Bull's Blood' beet for the tasty root - excellent harvested when only two to three inches - plant it for the deep, vibrant red leaves. Picked young, they are a superlative addition to a salad; when they are larger, cook the leaves as you would spinach, or use them in a stir-fry.

Pansy Party

Pansies are such a cheerful addition to any garden. Much has been written about their versatility as a fall flower and bedding plants are readily available in nurseries for fall planting. However, the selection from seed is much more diverse - and easy to grow. The unexpected bonus of fall pansies: keep deadheading the plants. Even in Zone 5, each time the snow melts there are the pansies ready to burst into flower. AAS winners 'Maxim Marina' (1991) and 'Ultima Morpho' (2002) are among the most colorful.

Harvest Time

Whether you are gathering lettuce, chard, spinach, kale, chicory or other greens, you can get the most out of these leafy plants by picking only as many outer leaves as you will use for the next meal. As long as the temperatures stay at least ten to fifteen degrees above freezing during the day, the plants will continue to produce new leaves at the center of the plant. Instead of cutting and bringing in the entire plant, harvesting a few leaves at a time can extend the harvest through winter right into early spring - if the weather cooperates (or you have a cold frame).

Of the root vegetables, only radishes need to be pulled up at maturity when their flavor and texture are at their peak. The chosen selections of the others - carrots, turnips and beets - are equally good harvested young or at maturity.

Enjoy the wide selection of easy-to-grow fall edibles that deliver great taste and a range of colors to enhance nutritious meals.

Source: National Garden Bureau

Pumpkin Facts

Who doesn't love fall, especially after a very hot and dry summer. Cooler temperatures, colorful mums, frosty nights, changing foliage and pumpkins herald the fall season.

Pumpkins have been around for many centuries. They were first grown in Central America. Spanish explorers brought pumpkin seeds back to Europe in the 14th century. When early settlers arrived in America, they discovered that Native Americans were growing and using pumpkins. They roasted strips of pumpkin over an open fire for food. Native Americans also dried long strips of pumpkin and wove them into mats. Early colonists cut off the top of the pumpkin, scraped out the seeds and filled the inside of the pumpkin with milk, honey and spices, cooking it for hours into a sort of early version of a pumpkin pie.

Illinois grows more pumpkins than any other state in the United States. Pumpkins are grown on over 12,000 acres of land in the state. 80% of all the pumpkins produced commercially in the U. S. are produced within a 90-mile radius of Peoria, Illinois. Most of those pumpkins are grown for processing into canned pumpkins. 95% of the pumpkins processed in the United States are grown in Illinois.

Morton, Illinois just 10 miles southeast of Peoria calls it self, the "Pumpkin Capital of the World". Over 100,000 tons of pumpkins are processed and canned in the local Libby's plant each year. That is enough pumpkin to bake more than 50 million pies. In September Morton celebrates the start of the canning season with the Morton Pumpkin Festival at www.pumpkincapital.com.

Orange is still the most popular color for pumpkins, but over the last few years pumpkins in shades of red, white, grayish blue and green have come on the market. Rupp Seeds Inc. is working a developing a pink pumpkin.

The bright orange color of pumpkin is a dead giveaway that pumpkin is loaded with an important antioxidant, beta-carotene. Beta-carotene is one of the plant carotenoids converted to vitamin A in the body. In the conversion to vitamin A, beta-carotene performs many important functions in overall health.

Current research indicates that a diet rich in foods containing beta-carotene may reduce the risk of developing certain types of cancer and offers protection against heart disease. Beta-carotene offers protection against other diseases as well as some degenerative aspects of aging.

In 2004 at the Port Elgin, Ontario Pumpkinfest Pumpkin Weigh-off, grower Alan Eaton won with a new world record giant pumpkin that weighed 1,446 pounds. 51 pumpkins were entered in the weigh off and all together they weighed 19 tons.

To find a pumpkin farm close to you, check out the University of Illinois Extension website, Pumpkins and More at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/pumpkins

Hort Shorts

Apple Facts

Apples are cholesterol, sodium, and fat free. An average apple about the size of a tennis ball has 80 calories and 20 percent of the daily-recommended amount of fiber. That is as much fiber as a bowl of bran cereal.

The average American eats about 19 pounds of fresh apples a year, which averages out to about an apple a week. If he or she is smart, the apple peel is left on. Two-thirds of the fiber and lots of antioxidants are found in that peel. Antioxidants help to reduce oxidant damage to cells, which can trigger some diseases.

U.S. farmers grow about 250 million bushels of apples each year, and 60 percent of that total is consumed fresh. One hundred varieties of apples are grown commercially in the United States and more than 7,500 varieties are grown worldwide. The five most popular varieties in the United States are Red Delicious, Golden Delicious, Gala, Fuji, and Granny Smith.

To learn more about apples or where the closest orchard is located, visit U of I Extension's Apples and More website, located at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/apples or call 773-233-0476 for a listing of apple orchards.

Extend Annual Display

Transplanting specimen annuals into pots for the patio, deck, and porch is a great way to extend fall color. Many annuals transplant very well from the ground to pots, including geraniums, celosia, dianthus and many more. Why let frost get the best of your year-long efforts? These potted 'best of garden' plants can be protected from frost conditions and extend color into late fall.

The number of plants you transplant is strictly determined by how many pots you want to move around. But even a few, combined with the other fall blooming plants can provide beautiful color right into November.

Source: Susan Grupp, Extension Educator

Protect New Evergreens

Protect newly planted evergreens from winter's cold weather and drying winds. The following are cultural practices that will improve their chances of making it through the winter.

First, make sure there is plenty of soil moisture before the ground freezes. If there has not been sufficient rain, water them. Water the planting hole as well as a couple of feet of the surrounding soil. Avoid overwatering because overwatering can drown tree roots adding to winter kill. Water till the soil is moist at least 12 inches deep.

Another recommendation is to consider applying an anti-desiccant/anti-transpirant. It is important to read the product's label. Use the winter label rate at the recommended temperature. These products vary in their longevity and effectiveness on the plants. Usually a second and sometimes a third application later in the winter are required. These products, when applied correctly, can sometimes make the difference on plant survival as well as appearance the following spring.

A screen that partially blocks the wind is another way to reduce dehydration.

Use sturdy stakes that are a couple of feet longer than the plant is high. Place the stakes in the ground before the ground begins to freeze. How many stakes you use depends on whether you want a 'V'-shaped screen or a flat screen as well as how many evergreens were planted.

Once the ground begins to freeze, nail, staple, or tie a material like burlap, a cheesecloth-like material made out of nylon or other polyester, or even snow fencing to the stakes. If using the 'V'-shaped screen around an individual plant, the bottom of the 'V' stake is directly west of the plant. The other two stakes are to the southeast and to the northeast. Make sure that the sides of the 'V' extend beyond the plant. The entire east side of the plant is left open. The plant should not be wrapped entirely with protective material.

The barrier is to reduce the flow of wind through and around the evergreen. It is not supposed to stop the wind entirely. You need to make sure light reaches all of the plant, therefore do not situate the screen so the plant is supporting the screen or that it even touches the plant.

Source: Jim Schuster, Extension Educator

Cybergardening Sites

Dr. Arbor Talks Trees
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/trees3/
This is the third in a series of web pages designed to help school children learn about trees. Dr. Arbor is for kids in grades six through eight.

Gardening in the Zone
http://129.186.89.193/gardening/
Iowa State website with seasonal columns with an accompanying video.

Chicago Home Composting
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/homecomposting/
Basic composting information and resources

Did you know? . .

. . . when fresh potatoes are refrigerated; some of the starch is converted to sugar as a result of the cold temperature? This can be a disaster if the potatoes are used to make French fries. Sugar browns quicker than starch so the fries tend to brown much too quickly upon frying. They are golden brown on the outside but raw in the middle. Yuck! However, for oven baked cottage fries or baked potato wedges, the increased sugar can work in your favor–the slower oven temperatures can produce a beautifully golden brown potato. Source: CookWise by Shirley O. Corriher

. . . basmati rice is a variety of very long-grain fragrant rice? It is most commonly grown in India and Pakistan. Imported basmati rice is aged for a minimum of one year and often much longer. The aging process dehydrates the rice, which allows the grain to expand more during cooking. According to Cook's Illustrated magazine, American grown basmati rice is not aged, thus the difference is a rather soft and stubby end product.


. . . that "drip loss" is a food industry term? Drip loss refers to the amount of water loss in frozen foods upon thawing, especially meat, fish, and poultry. A large amount of water loss involves loss of flavor and moisture. Check the packages of chicken and other meats in the chilled section of the supermarket before purchasing. Simply tilt the package and look at the amount of reddish liquid that collects in the corner. Select the one with the least amount of "drip loss". Source: Food Marketing Institute

Fall Vegetable Parade of Colors

With the fall season, a new crop of fruits and vegetables are waiting to fill our plates. The fall vegetables colors orange and red are good indicators that the vegetable is a source of carotenoids.

Carotenoids are pigments made by plants. This group of pigments includes beta-carotene, lutein, zeaxanthin, and lycopene. Although beta-carotene can be split to produce vitamin A, lutein, zeaxanthin, and lycopene have no ability to become vitamin A. Researchers believe they have their own work to do in the body.

Research with lycopene has been focused on prostate cancer, but the answers aren't in yet. Although you can buy lycopene supplements, and no toxic effects have been reported, scientists and nutritionists suggest that the best way to include lycopene in your diet is with red fruits and vegetables.

Tomatoes are especially rich in lycopene. Lycopene gives ripe tomatoes their red color. Thus tomato products such as tomato paste, tomato juice, tomato sauce, tomato soup, and even tomato catsup are also rich in lycopene. Pink grapefruit, watermelon, and guava also get their red color from lycopene.

But don't just focus on lycopene. The USDA 2005 Dietary Guidelines for Americans, recommends varying your vegetables each day.

"Eat more dark green veggies, such as broccoli, kale, and other dark leafy greens; orange veggies, such as carrots, sweet potatoes, pumpkin, and winter squash; and beans and peas such as pinto beans, kidney beans, black beans, garbanzo beans, split peas, and lentils."

In the USDA Food Guide at the reference 2,000-calorie level, the following weekly amounts are recommended:

Dark green vegetables 3 cups/week
Orange vegetables 2 cups/week
Legumes (dry beans) 3 cups/week
Starchy vegetables 3 cups/week
Other vegetables 6 ½ cups/week

Source: Dr. Karen Chapman-Novakofski, Associate Professor of Nutrition, Diabetes Lifeline October/November, 2005, at http://web.aces.uiuc.edu/urban/diabetes/index.html. Dietary Guidelines for Americans 2005 at http://www.health.gov/dietaryguidelines/dga2005/document/.

Health and Household Tips

Eat More Nuts

Fall means fresh nuts are available at relatively low prices. Pecan, walnuts and peanuts are harvested October thru December. Nuts are included in the Meat group due to their high concentration for nutrients and protein. Pecans and peanuts from Georgia, walnuts and almonds from California–it's all so good!

Did you know an ounce of nuts provides up to 3 grams of dietary fiber? Depending on variety– approximately ten to twelve nuts. The recommended amount of fiber for adults is 25 to 30 grams per day. Look at all the fiber in nuts.

Nuts are also a good source of antioxidant vitamins, minerals, and other substances that offer protection for heart and brain as well. Nuts are delicious but high in calories, so easy on the munching. An ounce of almonds, for example, contains 175 calories, 6 grams of protein, 73 mg calcium, 14.4 grams fat, 3.1 grams fiber, 7.5 mg vitamin E.

Researchers for the Chicago Health and Aging Project (CHAP) found that a diet rich in foods containing vitamin E, such as nuts, may reduce the risk of Alzheimer's disease. Solid food is what has been studied, not supplements.

Fresh nuts are extremely perishable due to their high oil content. To keep the quality high, proper storage is a must. Store fresh unshelled nuts in a cool, dry place, away from heat source for three to six months. Shelled nuts can be either refrigerated in airtight containers for up to nine months, or frozen in zipper lock freezer bags for up to two years at zero degrees or below.

So eat some nuts. Add nuts to side dishes, such as salads, vegetable stir-fries, green beans, and even hot breakfast cereal.

Source: USDA National Nutrient Database for Standard Reference http://www.nal.usda.gov/fnic/foodcomp/search/.

Medication: Taken With or Without Food
Whether a drug should be taken with food is determined by factors that affect drug absorption. Timing and food components are important factors too. Some medications should be taken on an empty stomach and some should be taken with food. The phrase "with food" does not mean during the meal, it means following the meal. Why is this important?

· Fasting- On an empty stomach, a drug passes through the stomach quickly, and reaches the small intestine faster. It is in the small intestine is where drugs are usually absorbed. So, on an empty stomach, the drug may be absorbed more quickly, and may begin working faster. If this is the intent, follow the instructions.

· Full stomach- or with food. Taking drugs and medications within an hour or two of a meal can delay absorption of a drug. This is not bad; it just means it takes longer for the drug to work. Drugs that should be taken with food usually need the food to protect the stomach from its strong action, or need the food components to enhance absorption. If this is the intent, follow the instructions.

Check with your doctor or pharmacist if you are unsure about when to take your medications. The drug-food interaction can have a significant effect on how the drug works. It is important to follow instructions so that your medication performs as intended.

Source: How Nutrients and Drugs Interact: Karen Chapman Novakofski, University of Illinois Extension Specialist, Foods and Nutrition

Very Easy Black Bean Soup
Soup is comfort food. It is palate pleasing and extremely versatile. A hot or cold bowl of soup can be an appetizer, main course, or snack. On a cold spring day (or early June day) in Chicago a bowl of soup can be just what the doctor ordered. Soup making does not require special techniques. This Black Bean soup is very easy and as delicious as any you will find on restaurant menus.
Very Easy Black Bean Soup
Makes 11 – one cup servings
This version of black bean soup calls for canned beans and canned broth, for convenience; of course you can cook your own beans (soak for 8-12 hours) if you have the time and the inclination. Use four cups cooked beans instead of canned.

2 -15.5 oz cans black beans (4 cups)
2 cans fat-free low-sodium chicken, beef, or vegetable broth
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small yellow onion, chopped
1 to 2 clove garlic, minced or pressed
2 medium fresh tomatoes, chopped
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or less, or none at all
1 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled with finger tips
½ cup chopped cilantro or flat leaf parsley
Grated Swiss cheese for garnish

1. Open the cans of beans and broth and set aside. Chop onion, prepare garlic, chop tomatoes and set aside.
2. Heat a large pot over medium heat. Add oil, onion and garlic. Cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes. Do not brown.
3. Add tomatoes and continue to stir and cook for another 3 minutes or so. Add beans, broth and bay leaf. Simmer over medium heat for 30 minutes.
4. Add oregano and cook for 5 minutes more. Remove soup from heat. Remove bay leaf and discard. Stir in cilantro or parsley.
5. Garnish each bowl with 1 tablespoon grated cheese just before serving.
6. Freeze leftovers in individual freezer containers for up to three months.

CAL0RIES per cup 115 (36 from fat); FAT 4g (sat 1g); PROTEIN 5g; CARB 15g; FIBER 5g; CHOL 2 mg; POTAS 359mg; SODIUM 448mg; CAL 57mg

Note: To reduce sodium in canned beans, place in a colander and rinse under cold water for a few minutes. Proceed with the recipe

Source: From the personal recipe files of Drusilla Banks, Extension Educator, Nutrition and Wellness

Lactose Intolerant? Calcium From Plants

Lactose is milk sugar. It is the least sweet tasting of all natural sugars. Lactose is found in the milk of all mammals-- dairy cows, goats, sheep, buffalo, etc., and milk products such as cheese, yogurt, and ice cream. During normal human digestion an enzyme in the intestinal tract breaks lactose down to smaller parts.

People with lactose intolerance have lost the ability to break down milk sugar. As lactose moves through the intestinal tract without this break down, it quickly ferments. During fermentation gas is produced.

Lactose fermentation in the gut produces very painful symptoms. Nausea, cramping, bloating, abdominal pain, gas, and diarrhea may start as early as 15 minutes after consuming milk products. Severity is directly related to how much lactose was eaten.

Being allergic to milk is different from being lactose intolerant. People who are allergic are allergic to the protein in milk. They must avoid all milk protein. Many people with intolerance to lactose can eat dairy products in varying but small amounts.

Who is intolerant? About 80% of Asians and Native Americans, 75% of African Americans, 50% of Hispanic Americans, and 20% of Caucasian Americans have different levels of lactose intolerance.

Dairy products are by far the best source of calcium. And calcium is needed throughout the lifecycle. Since your body cannot make calcium, it must be supplied by food. Calcium is important for growth and on-going health of bones, teeth, and blood.

Fortunately, there are some non-dairy food sources of calcium. Some you may not have considered. Dark green leafy vegetables (cooked or raw), dried beans, and almonds are also chalked full of calcium. Fortified tofu and other soy product are a good source of calcium too.

Here are some surprising–and not so surprising–ways to reach your daily quota of 1,000 milligrams a day or 1,200 milligrams if you are between 25 and 50.

  • Almonds (dry roasted, 1 cup) 367 mg
  • Beet greens (cooked, 1 cup) 164 mg
  • Beans, dried navy (cooked, 1 cup) 127 mg
  • Cabbage, Chinese pak-choi (cooked, 1 cup) 158 mg
  • Collards (cooked, 1 cup) 266 mg
  • Dandelion greens (cooked, 1 cup) 147 mg
  • Kale (frozen, cooked, 1 cup) 179 mg
  • Kelp (seaweed, cooked, 1 cup) 135 mg
  • Molasses, blackstrap (1 tablespoon) 172 mg
  • Okra (frozen, cooked, 1 cup) 177 mg
  • Orange juice (calcium fortified, 8 oz.) 300 mg
  • Rhubarb (frozen, cooked w/sugar, 1 cup) 348 mg
  • Tofu (1/2 cup) 100 mg
  • Turnip greens (cooked, 1 cup) 197 mg

For other sources of lactose-free calcium rich foods, visit the USDA Nutrient Data Base at www.nal.usda.gov/fnic/foodcomp/search/index.html click on Nutrient Lists and go to calcium.

Source: American Dietetic Association's Complete Food and Nutrition Guide by Roberta Larson Duyff, MS, RD, CFCS 1996. USDA Nutrient Data Base 2004.

Self-medicating and Drug Interactions

Self-medicating is when you take a drug or medication, be it an over-the-counter (OTC) drug or prescription, a botanical, or even large amounts of vitamins and minerals, without consulting a health care professional. People do it all the time. Today there are more opportunities than ever before to care for yourself with medication, which, unfortunately, also allows for more mistakes.

According to the Food and Drug Administration, consumers self-medicate or self-treat four times more health problems than doctors treat. And with health-care on the rise, so is the use of OTC medicines. To save money, consumers increasingly treat common ailments themselves instead of seeing a doctor.

Many drugs formally by prescription only are now available over-the-counter (without a prescription). And something new, we are seeing more and more commercial advertisements for prescription drugs. You have probably noticed at the end of the TV commercial a long list of cautions. Statements such as– do not take if you have liver damage, do not take if you are pregnant, do not take if you are already taking blah, blah and so on.

TV commercials about drugs often give information about side effects. Warnings such as may cause drowsiness, dry mouth, constipation etc, etc. All drugs have side effects; some are so minor you do not notice. You see, once ingested, some drugs interact negatively with other drugs, with some foods, with alcoholic beverages, and existing medical conditions.

According to the FDA, drug interactions may make one drug less effective, cause unexpected side effects, or increase the action of a particular drug. Some drug interactions can even be harmful to you–some can be potentially fatal. Read the label. Before taking a new drug, ask your doctor or pharmacist the following questions:

  • Can I take it with other drugs?
  • Should I avoid certain foods, beverages or other products?
  • What are possible drug interaction signs I should know about?
  • How will the drug work in my body?
  • Is there more information available about the drug or my condition (on the Internet or in health and medical literature)?

Today, information is usually enclosed in prescription drug packages and, by law, on the label of OTC medications. If you still have questions after reading the drug product label, ask your doctor or pharmacist for more information. If you take several different medications, see more than one doctor, or have certain health conditions, you and your doctors need to be aware of all the medications you take to avoid potential problems.

Take all of your medication with you on each visit to each doctor. Do not be afraid to ask questions and talk to the doctor about how you feel after taking a new drug. Never take someone else's medication and beware of "friendly advice" from non-professionals who may be playing doctor. Remember, you can reduce the risk of potentially harmful drug interactions and side effects with a little knowledge and common sense.

For more information on drug interactions, order a booklet entitled "Drug Interactions: What you should know" from the Council on Family Health. To order one free copy or download a copy of this booklet visit the website at www.pueblo.gsa.gov or write to:


Federal Consumer Information Center
Item # 600G
Pueblo, CO 81009
Source: Food and Drug Administration at www. fda.gov.

In Pursuit of a Good Night's Sleep

Never underestimate the value of a good night's sleep. It is an essential part of a healthy lifestyle. There are some practical things you can do to improve your chances of sound sleep. The Better Sleep Council (BSC) is a nonprofit organization supported by the mattress industry. The BSC is devoted to educating the public about the importance of sleep to good health and quality of life. BSC also provides information about the value of the sleep system and sleep environment in pursuit of a good night's sleep.
  • Improving your food selections to include a variety of foods including plenty of fruits, vegetables, and water is a good start. Consuming beverages with caffeine, such as coffee, tea, and soft drinks can make it more difficult to fall asleep. Set an early cutoff time for such beverages.
  • Plan time to allow for adequate sleep on a regular basis. Develop a sleep routine. Do the same thing each night just before bedtime.
  • A regular exercise program, which includes 30 minutes or more walking most days of the week, improves sleep. Exercising too close to bedtime may disrupt a good night's sleep. Allow two hours or more to relax after exercise.
  • Make sure your mattress and foundation are conducive to restful sleep. Waking up with pain, stiffness or soreness may mean your mattress is no longer meeting your sleep needs.
  • Make sure your bedroom is dark. Light is one of the body's cues to wake up. A dark room is more conducive to sleep, even if you are just taking a nap.
  • Noise control is another factor. Loud noises, inside or outside, can disturb sleep. Soft steady sounds are more soothing and they can block out distracting noises.
  • The temperature of the sleep environment is also important. According to the research, temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees may offer the most comfort. You decide.
  • Avoid alcoholic beverages and smoking just before bedtime.

For more information on selecting a mattress and foundation as well as getting a good night's sleep, get a free copy of the Better Sleep Council's "Better Sleep Guide" visit online www.sleepbetter.org or write to the BSC at P.O. Box 19534,

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