Cover crops are an old idea that's time has come again. They are receiving a lot of attention on production agriculture and horticulture, but also have a place in the intensively managed vegetable garden. Cover crops have the following properties.

They add nutrients to the soil. Plant roots go down onto the soil and take up the nutrients necessary for plant growth and development. After plants die and the residue decomposes, these nutrients already in "plant-available" form are easily taken up by the next plant that grows in that spot. Legume cover crops are known for fixing large amounts of atmospheric nitrogen. All plant roots bring up phosphorous, potassium and micronutrients from the soil.

Cover crops reduce soil erosion. Water running off bare ground causes soil erosion and this problem is the worst from November to May. Sediment in streams, rivers and lakes is a big water quality problem. During the winter, cover crop residue decreases the rate of water flow across the soil surface, which allows better water infiltration and less runoff. In the summer, living and killed cover crops soften the impact of raindrops and irrigation water and slows down runoff.

Cover crops reduce weeding time. A vigorously growing cover crop can act as a "smother" crop and outcompete many weeds and suppress the germination of weed seeds. However, cover crops are rarely vigorous enough to outcompete noxious weeds like quackgrass or Canada thistle.

Cover crops capture leftover fertilizer. Grass cover crops in particular will take up unused nitrogen, preventing it from moving into ground water.

They improve soil structure. The addition of organic matter enhances water infiltration, root growth and nutrient uptake by crops.

Cover crops suppress disease. Many diseases, such as anthracnose in tomatoes, begin when the disease-causing fungus splashes up from the ground to the foliage during rain or irrigation. Cover crops cut down on this splashing much more than plastic mulch.

They decrease evaporation from the soil surface. There are drawbacks to cover crops, however, which make them something only an energetic or experienced gardener should try. They can keep the soil wet and cool in a late spring, which can make it hard to get into the garden on time and also cause poor seed germination. Some of them, like hairy vetch, can be hard to kill. In a dry spring, any of the covers may deplete too much soil moisture, causing poor crop seed germination and growth. Also in a dry spring, the clovers can be hard to kill because of their strong tap roots. The grasses may tie up nitrogen for 4 to 8 weeks after incorporating them into the soil and require extra nitrogen fertilizer to prevent nitrogen deficiencies in crops. Small seeded crops, such as lettuce, have poor germination in heavy cover crop residue.

Cover crops are managed in many different ways. Some are planted in August or September, allowed to grow in the fall and early spring and then killed by tilling in late spring. Other fall planted covers may naturally winterkill, providing a residue early the following spring. These less hardy species may also be planted in the spring and killed in the summer for a late planting of green beans. Cover crops can also be used as living mulches, such as subterranean clover, planted between beds of raspberries. The clover keeps down the weeds and fixes nitrogen for the crop. Another method combines killed and living mulch by seeding or transplanting crops into strips or spots of killed cover crop. Some cover crops can be killed by just mowing and others by rototilling.

Before buying the most available cover crop seeds, try to determine your goals. Do you need quick nitrogen or lots of organic matter? Cover for a slope? Something to hold down the soil over the winter and get a jump on spring weeds? Deep cover crop root growth to bring up plant nutrients and improve water infiltration? Different cover crops will do different things for you. (Seeding rates are given in parentheses.)

Grain rye will add more organic matter to your soil than any other crop. If left to grow to its maximum height of over six feet in mid-June, the roots will go equally deep down into the soil, forming channels for better water infiltration. Rye can be planted later than any other cover crop, often into October. Its lush growth, when cut by early June, will form a thick mat into which cabbage, tomato, squash or melons can be transplanted. However, rye is notorious for getting away from gardeners. It can grow so fast in the spring that it is difficult to cut and after cutting, the heavy residue may keep the soil too cool and wet. Rye is also allelopathic, which means that its roots release compounds that inhibit the germination of seed, both weeds and vegetables. It also can tie up nitrogen for longer than any other cover crop (1.4 to 2.8 lb/1000 sq.ft.).

Oats can be used as a fall cover crop. They are inexpensive, grow quickly in a cool, wet fall and are completely winterkilled, providing a nice residue over the winter (1.2 to 2.3 lb/1000 sq. ft.).

Annual ryegrass is one of the least expensive and most hardy of all the covers. It has quick and competitive growth and is very shade and traffic tolerant. Annual ryegrass forms a thick sod with a fibrous root system, making it good at capturing nitrogen and preventing erosion. It reseeds easily and quickly and may turn into a problem weed. It is best suited as a living mulch in systems where it will be incorporated the following spring.

Perennial ryegrass works better in a system that requires a living mulch for at least two seasons. It is slower to establish but more persistent than annual ryegrass (0.5 to 0.6 lb/1000 sq. ft.).

Hairy vetch is a legume. It fixes more nitrogen and produces more biomass than most legumes. Vetch is often planted in August or September and killed the following spring. Later planted crops like squash, melons and tomatoes do very well growing over the vetch residue. This decrease in fruit contact with the soil can reduce some of the fruit rots. Fall-planted hairy vetch can be killed by just mowing after it blooms the following June. It may also winterkill in a severe winter. Vetch also can be planted in the spring, mowed in the fall and early crops can be planted into the residue the following spring (0.8 to 0.9 lb/1000 sq. ft.).

A combination of fall-planted grain rye and hairy vetch gives the benefits of both. The vetch can vine up the stiffer stalks of rye. The vetch fixes atmospheric nitrogen, while the rye uses leftover nitrogen. Nitrogen from the decomposing vetch will cause the rye to decompose more quickly and not tie up nitrogen as long. Pumpkins and tomatoes transplanted into this residue in early June perform extremely well (0.7 to 1.4 lb rye/1000 sq. ft. and 0.4 to 0.5 lb vetch/1000 sq. ft.).

Medium red clover is inexpensive, readily available and tolerant of many conditions including shade. It is easily frost-seeded at any time during the winter, but only makes moderate spring growth. Medium red clover can also be interseeded into squash and melons before runnering or into sweet corn at tasseling and allowed to grow until the following spring (0.2 to 0.4 lb/1000 sq. ft.).

These are only a few of your options. Be creative, but keep an eye on cover crops. In a spring like we just had, some people got a little more cover crop than they had planned on!

Source: Ohio Gardening, August 1995, Vol. VI, No. 6

SPECIAL NOTE:
Cover crops and green manure can be purchased from:

Prairie State Commodities
P.O.Box 6
Main Street
Trilla, IL 62469
(217) 235-4322
Catalog $1.00

Necessary Trading Co.
One Nature's Way
New Castle, VA 24127-0305
(703) 864-5103
Catalog free

Harmony Farm Supply
P. O. Box 460
3244 Highway 116 North (Sebsatopol)
Graton, CA 95444
(707) 823-9125
Catalog $2.00

Bountiful Gardens
18001 Shafer Ranch Road
Willits, CA 95490 (707) 459-6410
Catalog free

Filaree Farm
Route 2, Box 162
Okanogan, WA 98840-9774

Tomatoes have several insect and disease problems. However, many problems of this popular garden plant are cultural and can be avoided with proper cultural practices.

Blossom End Rot

This appears as a dry, black leathery scar on the blossom-end (the end farthest from the stem) of the fruit. Caused by calcium deficiency, it is usually brought on by extremes in soil moisture. It is most common during hot, dry weather. Mulch and irrigate during drought. Avoid heavy pruning of the plants.

Blossom Drop/Poor Fruit Set

Blossom drop is caused by temperature extremes. Fruit set occurs only when night temperatures are between 55 and 75 degrees F. If pollination does not occur, the blossoms fall off.

Fruit Cracks

Tomato cracking occurs most frequently during hot, rainy periods, especially when preceded by a dry period. Fruit exposed to sunlight is also susceptible to cracking.

Sunscald

A yellow or white patch on the side of the fruit facing the sun is a sign of sunscald. The spots may blister and dry, forming a paper-like surface. Poor foliage cover and pruned plants are most susceptible.

Leaf Roll

This is a normal characteristic of some cultivars and is not a reason for concern. The lower leaves roll up at the margins and become leathery.

Catfacing

Puckering and scarring at the blossom end of the fruit is called catfacing. Cool and cloudy weather during blooming may cause the blossom to stick to the young, developing fruit, resulting in malformation. Damage from 2, 4-D may also cause distortion.

Deformed Leaves

This is usually caused by weed killer injury. When severe, the fruits may also be misshapen. Normal growth will return when the herbicide wears off, but total production will be reduced. Do not eat the tomatoes if the plant has been exposed to herbicides.

Blotchy Ripening

Irregular yellow blotches on the green tomatoes with the interior having pits or browning are caused by several factors. Tomatoes ripen poorly if the temperature falls below 60 degrees F. Compacted and overly wet soil inhibits root growth and impacts ripening. Potassium deficiency can inhibit ripening. Tobacco mosaic virus may cause browning of the interior or the foliage may have blotches of yellow.

Source: Ohio Gardening, July 1993, Vol. IV, No. 5

Mid August - September

Mow & Water - as necessary. Mowing heights may be reduced when temperatures cool and turf growth increases.

Fertilization - fertilize all cool-season turfs in early September; this is the most important application of the year.

Cultivation - core aerify, spike, slice or dethatch when active growth resumes.

Establishment - establish or renovate turf by seed or sod.

Weeds - actively growing broadleaf weeds can be treated with postemergence herbicides beginning late August.

Insects - test for grubs, sod webworm, chinchbug and greenbugs as necessary.

Possible Diseases - "Helminthosporium" diseases, Summer Patch/Necrotic Ring Spot, Dollar Spot, Red Thread/Pink Patch, Rusts, Brown Patch, Powdery Mildew, Pythium Blight, Anthracnose, Fairy Rings, Nematodes, Leaf Smuts.

The following poem was sent to me by a lovely lady and I want to share it with our readers. I'm sure you will enjoy it and possibly share it with others.

Oh, little violet in my lawn,
Gee, how I wish that you were gone!
I strive to grow a carpet green
In which no weed nor blossom's seen.
You don't belong among these blades
Of grass...move to some place with shades
'Neath tree or bush, by rocks and rills,
Where passing strollers leap with thrills
Whey they espy your purple hue,
And gush aloud with "Ahhh!" and "Ooh!"
Come spring, I pray you'll not say "Hey,
I'm here again! Have a nice day!"
How you intrude, you wedge in so
That in your spot my grass can't grow!
Wish I could kill your kith and kin
And make of you a true has-been!
'Tis true, wee flower, shy and coy
You are State Flower of Illinois,
But seeing how you spit out seed
To me I class you as a weed!
Yes, fellow, I am not impressed,
Knowing how I must invest
in "goo" that will deweed the space
Except for your "Can't-hurt-me" face!
You do thrust out your tongue and thrive,
And stay defiantly alive!
But, years ago, this wasn't thus,
For when I saw you, how I'd fuss!
I sang to you when but a kid.
I loved the way you shyly hid.
I shrieked with joy to see your hue,
Where midst the concrete cracks you grew.
When young, I'd bunch you in a vase
And sketch your petaled purple face.
I plucked your blooms and whiffed your smell,
And pinned you to my coat lapel....
But that was long before I grew
This lawn that made a home for you,
Where you and all your progeny
Advanced like soldiers, daringly!
But, now I'm old...my lawn I prize,
I see it "green" my neighbor's eyes.
I use my waning energy
Defying your persistency,
As I get down on aching knees
And use old-fashioned elbow grease
To pry you and your heart out loose
And shout with glee..OUT, FIEND,
VAMOOSE!

The Solaris Group's Toll-Free Gardening Helpline

The Solaris Group markets Ortho products; its nationwide helpline for gardeners (800-225-2883) is operated between 7 a.m. and 4 p.m. Pacific Standard Time Monday through Friday from October through March and from 6:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Pacific Standard Time Monday through Saturday during the rest of the year.

A free brochure containing answers to the most frequently asked questions received on the helpline is available from Ortho MFAQ, The Solaris Group, P. O. Box 5008, San Ramon, CA 94583.

"Blumat Plant Savers"

These little devices consist of probes (to be stuck into the soil in houseplants' pots) connected to flexible tubing (to be inserted in plain water or water containing soluble fertilizer). They automatically provide just the right amount of moisture needed by the plants. The exclusive U.S. importer of Blumat Plant Savers is Jade Mountain, Inc., P. O. Box 4616, Boulder, CO 80306, phone 303-449-6601. Contact Jade Mountain for additional information.

Compost Booklet

You can obtain a free compost booklet from our office by sending a SASE with 32 cents postage to Compost Booklet, CES, 5106 S. Western Avenue, Chicago, IL., 60609.

Free Outdoor Power Equipment "Safety Tips Handbook"

Homelite, Inc., a manufacturer of lawn mowers, string trimmers, hedge trimmers, tillers, chain saws, leaf blowers, pressure washers and other outdoor power equipment, is offering a free brochure containing 75 safety tips. (Some examples: "While in a tree or on a ladder, don't cut above shoulder height with a chain saw." "Before attempting to remove an obstruction caught or jammed in the blades of your hedge trimmer, be sure to turn the "off-on" switch to the "off" position and remove the spark plug." "Never attempt to make a wheel height adjustment on your lawn mower while the engine is running.") To request a copy of the brochure, call toll-free 800-252-8772.

Reprinted Victorian Bulb Catalogs (and New Old Bulbs)

Scott Kunst at Old House Gardens (536 Third St., Ann Arbor, MI 48103, phone 313-995-1486, catalog $2) specializes in old (antique; especially Victorian-era) bulbs, and his 1996 catalog has plenty of new offerings. (A tip from Scott: his best solution for preventing animal damage to bulbs is to spray the ground where the bulbs are planted with bitter-tasting "Ro-pel;" dipping bulbs in Ro-pel prior to planting is another option; look for Ro-pel at garden and hardware stores.)

For the first time this year, Scott is offering a reprint of the 28-page Vaughn's bulb and autumn plants catalog from 1897, with lots of illustrations. It costs $5.00 postpaid. Also still available is a reprint of the 32-page Vick's catalog of hardy bulbs form 1872 ($4.50 potspaid).

1997 Youth Garden Grant Application

The National Gardening Assn., in concert with leading companies from the lawn and garden industry will award its 14th Annual Youth Garden Grants to 300 schools, neighborhood groups, community centers, camps, clubs, treatment facilities and multigenerational settings throughout the United States. Each grant consists of tools, seeds and garden products valued at an average of $500. To get a copy of the application (deadline, November 15, 1996) just call our office at 312-737-1178 and we will be happy to send you a copy.

Free Samples of Squirrel Away(TM) Now Available

This bird seed "supplement," consisting of powdered hot pepper, was originally marketed for preventing squirrels, chipmunks and raccoons from eating bird seed. But now the marketer (Scryton Systems Inc., P. O. Box 404, Annapolis, MD 21404, phone 800-229-5454) is claiming that the product "is good for more than protecting your bird feeder! Landscapers and gardeners now have an effective, environmentally safe and inexpensive way to protect bulbs, seedlings and special plantings form digging dogs, pesky squirrels and hungry rabbits...Marauding mammals will think twice about biting into bulbs sprinkled with Squirrel Away!. Experienced and novice gardenscapers can dig and plant their gardens without fear of finding that their expensive bulbs have disappeared, their seedlings (have been) chewed to the ground or their tender plants (have been) uprooted!"

You can try it yourself by calling or writing Scrypton Systems and requesting a free sample of Squirrel Away.

Who Turned Out The Lights?

As you walk through your existing garden beds, you may realize that as time has passed, some plants are not performing as well as they used to. Although this could occur for numerous reasons, one thing to consider is how light in your landscape has changed over time. Plants that were originally planted in full sun, may now be growing in the shade of a tree that has grown several feet taller or was added to the landscape after other plants.

Consider moving sun-loving plants to another area of the garden and finding new shade tolerant plants to replace them. For annuals, begonias, impatiens, browalia and other shade tolerant plants can give a bright show of color where petunias no longer perform well. Perennials such as astilbe, hostas, ferns and others will enjoy the shady areas where Redbeckia is ailing.

If you're uncertain how well a plant will perform in a problem area, plant just one or two of the types you would like there and test them for a season. Next year, plant more of those that did well and try some new ones for future plantings. The National Garden Bureau provided this information.

Raised Beds - Frame Alternatives

Still worried about using pressure treated wood for framing the raised bed for your vegetable garden? Here are some great, safe options.

Stone frames will last forever and you can easily rebuild the beds into any shape you want at any time.

Cement blocks or concrete is another option. If you lay the blocks in place so that the holes are facing up, you can plant flowers and small vegetables in these pockets. You can also make a wooden form and pour permanent raised beds of concrete.

If wood is what you want, consider rot-resistant types such as cedar or redwood. Other types to consider are: hemlock, oak, black locust, red mulberry and catalpa. (Apparently boards cut from the heartwood instead of the sapwood layer will have much less decay).

Still another idea is to use logs, lumber and boards made of recycled plastic. For a list of sources see: Organic Gardening, the March 1995 issue.

Recycle Spice Jars For Seed Sowing

In Taunton's Fine Gardening magazine, the March/April 1996 issue, No. 48, a reader writes that she saves empty spice jars because they make handy containers for storing and sprinkling seeds. Use the kind that have a divided lid - one side for sifting and one side to spoon from. Use the small opening for pouring out the fine seeds and the spoon side for the larger seeds. If you often lack a steady hand when sowing seeds, here's a solution.

Easy Organic Matter

If you take an environmentally sound approach to gardening, you are probably removing spent vegetable and flowering plants from their beds and placing them in the compost pile. The finished compost is then returned to the garden to increase the organic matter content of your soil.

However, one approach to take is to simply cut the old plants off at the soil line, leaving the roots, rather than pulling the plants up roots and all. The roots will decompose in the ground adding organic matter and leaving tiny air channels that help keep the soil aerated and allow for good water drainage. Roots of leguminous plants such as garden peas and beans, or sweet peas have nitrogen-fixing nodules that add extra nitrogen to the soil.

August Outdoor Gardening

• Continue deadheading (removal of spent flowers) roses, annuals and perennials.

• Plant peonies at the end of this month through October. Send a SASE with 32 cents postage to receive our Peonies booklet.

• Plant Colchicum, True Autumn Crocus and Madonna lilies in August for September blooming.

• Look for annual white grub damage in the lawn.

• Keep edible size vegetables picked so the plants will keep producing.

• Keep records of harvesting dates to help in planning the next year's vegetable garden.

• If you don't have a vegetable garden, plan on attending your local farmers market to purchase farm fresh produce.

• Continue regular watering, weeding and insect control in both flower and vegetable gardens.

• Sow nasturtium seeds now for winter bloom.

• Stock up on plant supplies such as peat moss, vermiculite, pots, pesticides and fertilizer before they are removed from the shelves.

• Begin potting hardy tulip, hyacinth, narcissus, etc., bulbs to be forced in December.

• Enjoy local county fairs.

September Outdoor Gardening

• Divide daylilies in early September so wounds will have sufficient time to heal.

• Lawns can be fertilized and dethatched or core aerated at this time. New lawns can be seeded during September and early October.

• Apply broadleaf weed control to the lawn.

• Take cutting of annuals such as impatiens, geraniums and begonias that are to be kept over winter. Don't wait, you may be too late!

• Dig up tuberous roots of dahlia and begonia tubers and store for winter.

• Continue to harvest vegetables including tomatoes, peppers and beans through September. Be sure all desirable produce is out of the garden before it is damaged by a killing frost.

• Do not harvest collards, kale and brussels sprouts until they have been subjected to a freeze.

• Begin to harvest winter squash and pumpkins late in the month.

• Fall apples are ripening. A trip to a nearby apple orchard would surely be an enjoyable way to spend a September afternoon.

• Have your garden soil tested this month.

• Bring in houseplants that summered outdoors. Before they are brought in, hose down the foliage and clean the containers to remove any insects.

• Allow amaryllis bulbs to go dormant. The bulbs must rest for at least one month before they are forced back into growth. Send for our Amaryllis factsheet with a SASE with 32 cents postage.

• Continue to pot hardy bulbs to be forced into indoor bloom. These bulbs will bloom in early to mid-January.

• Plant pansies for fall color.

• Establish a cover crop to the vegetable garden.

• Note plants that provide fall color so you can include them in your planting plan next year.

• Have sheets and cardboard boxes on hand to cover tender plants if there is an early frost.

• Thanksgiving (or Christmas) cactus can be forced into bloom in time for the holidays. Provide 15 hours of complete darkness each day, such as from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m., for approximately eight weeks. Keep temperature at about 60 to 65 degrees F. Temperatures of 55 F will cause flower buds to set without the dark treatment.

• Store leftover garden seed in a cool, dry place. A sealable jar with a layer of silica gel or powdered milk in the bottom works well.

• Bring houseplants that were moved outside for the summer back indoors before night temperatures drop below 55 degrees F. Gradually decrease the amount of light to acclimate the plants and help reduce leaf drop. Be sure to control insects and diseases before putting them near other houseplants.

• Fall is a good time to plant many container-grown or balled-and-burlapped nursery stock. Prepare a good-sized hole, plant at the same depth it grew in the nursery and water thoroughly. Mulching will help protect against large fluctuations in soil temperature and moisture. Be sure to stake or guy-wire tall plants to protect them from strong winds.

• Do not be alarmed if your evergreens, particularly white pine and arborvitae, drop some of their older needles. All evergreens shed needles at some time, but not all at once as deciduous plants do.

• Dig onions and garlic after top falls over naturally and necks begin to dry.

• Harvest mature green tomatoes before frost and ripen indoors. Individually wrap fruits in newspaper or leave them on the vine, pulling the entire plant out of the garden. Store in a cool location, about 55 to 60 degrees F.

• Save plants such as coleus, wax begonias, impatiens, or fuchsia for indoor growing over winter. Dig plants and cut them back about halfway or take cuttings of shoot tips and root them in moist vermiculite, soil mix or perlite.

• Watch for garden chrysanthemums to bloom as days grow shorter. Some may already have bloomed earlier in summer, which will decrease the number of fall blooms.

• Plant spring-flowering bulbs beginning in late September. Planting too early can cause bulbs to sprout top growth before winter. However, allow at least four to six weeks before the ground freezes for good root formation.

• Cut flowers, such as strawflower, statice, baby's breath and celosia for drying and hang upside down in a dry, well-ventilated area.

• Dig and store tender garden flowers for winter storage. Gladiolus corms should be dug when leaves begin turning yellow. Caladiums, geraniums and tuberous begonias should be lifted before killing frost. Dig canna and dahlia roots after a heavy frost. Allow to air dry, then pack in dry peat moss or vermiculite and store in a cool location.

• Remove raspberry canes after they bear fruit.

Over-the-Counter Heartburn DrugTagamet R, Pepcid AC R, and Zantac R are all brand names for the new over-the-counter (OTC) heartburn drug called H2-blockers. Until recently all three were sold only by prescription. The OTC version of these drugs are in lower-dose formulas.

How are heartburn drugs containing H2-blockers different from the old antacids? H2-blockers suppress the production of stomach acid. The plain antacids neutralize acids which are already in the stomach. They relieve heartburn rather than prevent it. The H2-blockers claim to relieve and prevent heartburn.

If you already have heartburn, the old antacids (sodium bicarbonate or baking soda) is still the best treatment. If you think you will get heartburn from eating a particular food, H2-blockers may be worth a try. Taken at least 30 minutes prior to the meal, H2-blockers reduce the production of acid. These drugs usually keep working for 3-5 hours. Follow the directions on the package.

The American College of Gastroenterology has launched a campaign warning about the overuse of H2-blockers. For many people, the problem is more serious than heartburn and they need treatment. Do not take H2-blockers or antacids regularly for more than two weeks. See a doctor about symptoms that keep coming back. If you have chest pain, nausea, weakness, breathlessness, fainting and/or sweating you have more than heartburn. You may be having a heart attack.

How fast do the new drugs work? That depends. What works well for one person may not work for another. Individual reaction times vary from person to person. Also, remember that antacids may cause constipation. Again, if you have regular symptoms, see a doctor.

Source: University of California at Berkeley Wellness Letter, Vol. 12, Issue 6, March 1996

A ChecklistOutbreaks of foodborne illness have increased drastically over the decade of the 1980s. Foodborne disease is often traced to improper handling and storage practices. According to the USDA, an estimated 80 people per 100,000 suffer from foodborne illness each year. This results in an annual cost to the economy of approximately $10 billion in lost wages, hospital and medical costs.

Are handling and storage practices up to par? Use this checklist to find your weaknesses. Improving poor habits can prevent illness in your home. By following some simple measures you can protect your family from foodborne illness.

When storing foods do you....

• check the temperature of your refrigerator to make sure it is between 34-40 degrees? If it is colder you are wasting money, if it is warmer you run the risk of foodborne illness. Use a refrigerator thermometer. You can buy one at the grocery store in the housewares section.

• space hot or warm food items in your refrigerator so air can freely circulate so that food cools quickly?

• freeze fresh meats and poultry immediately if you do not plan to use them within a day?

• place meat and poultry on a tray or plate on the lowest shelf of your refrigerator when thawing? This prevents raw juices from dripping on other food items.

• read and follow the "use by", "keep refrigerated" information on package labels?

• always remove large quantities of cooked food (such as beans, stews and soups) from pots, placing it in smaller containers in the refrigerator so it cools quickly and safely?

Before you cook foods do you...

• wash your hands with hot soapy water for at least 20 seconds?

• cover any cuts or sores on your hands with a bandage? Cuts and sores can be a source of Staphylococcus aureus bacteria and can make others sick. A bandage protects you and the food.

• use an apron to cover your clothes?

• keep pets out of the kitchen? Make sure pets are not fed in the kitchen where food is being prepared. We love them, but they can be a source of bacteria that can make us sick.
  

The Virtuous CabbageMany nutritionist and dietitians agree that cabbage has gotten a bum rap. People refuse to cook it because they say "it stinks." Cabbage has been blamed for gas and referred to as cheap peasant food.

Cabbage tries so hard to please. It is available year round and at the height of the growing season it can be bought for as little as 10 cents per pound. The cabbage family varieties include red, Savory, Common, Chinese, Bok Choy, Pe-sai and Napa.

Cabbage is high in Vitamin C. One cup of cooked cabbage provides 114 mg. of Vitamin C which is double the Recommended Daily Allowance and only 32 calories. Bok Choy is also an excellent source of beta carotene. According to the American Cancer Society, cabbage (and vegetables in the cabbage family) can help prevent certain cancers, such as esophagus, stomach and colon cancer.

Cabbage is also loaded with fiber. A one cup serving of cooked cabbage provides 6.6 grams and an uncooked 7.6 grams. Increased fiber in your diet can help prevent constipation, reduce cholesterol, reduce hemorrhoids, diverticulosis and irritable colon. It also plays a role in the decreased risk of the cancers mentioned.

However, cabbage can produce an odor reminiscent of rotten eggs and ammonia. The smell is the biggest hurtle. You see, cabbage contains sulfurous compounds that, when heated, give off vapors causing the bad odor. Much of this problem can be blamed on the cook. Boiling cabbage to death, as many cooks do, really gives people the vapors. So a cooking lesson is in order.

For you gardeners, cabbage can withstand a 15 degree frost. So there is still time to plant cabbage in your fall garden. Nothing beats the flavor of fresh cabbage and the stalks produce cabbage sprouts. What more could you ask for?

Chic Savory Cabbage

Cooked properly, cabbage has a mildly sweet flavor. Overcooked, it turns mushy and smells bad. Cabbage can be prepared in many ways. Here is a simple braise-saute method which is excellent. You will need a large skillet or heavy pot and a lid, one with a non-stick surface works best.

2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup chicken broth or water
2 pounds shredded, green cabbage (medium head, 4 cups shredded)
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves or lemon thyme (1/2 teaspoon dried)
2 tablespoons fresh parsley leaves
1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper (white pepper if you have it)

Shred and rinse the cabbage, set aside in a colander. Heat olive oil in the large skillet over medium heat. Add the wet cabbage shreds to the oil one handful at a time, starting with the dark green shreds, stir with a wooden spoon between additions. Continue stirring until cabbage is wilted. Add herbs and water/broth, stir. quickly cover with the lid. Braise for 10 minutes, stir occasionally. Season with salt and pepper, taste, adjust seasoning if necessary.

Variation:
Chic Cabbage with Garden Vegetables

Add 1/2 cup each chopped green onions with tops and chopped green peppers to the hot olive oil before adding the cabbage. Omit the parsley and thyme. Continue the recipe as above. Sprinkle with one teaspoon sugar.

Tips On How to Shred Cabbage

Remove the outer green leaves until you reach the tight head, set them aside. Using a sharp, chef's knife and on a cutting board, cut through the core of the cabbage head forming two halves. Cut each half in half again forming quarters. Remove the core from each quarter. With the cut side down, cut the quarters into 1/4 inch shreds.

Cut out the tough vein from each green outer cabbage leaf. Remove any yellow edges and insect holes. Rinse. Pile the pieces on top of each other. Starting from the long side, roll the leaves up tightly like a scroll. Holding the scroll with your left hand, cut across in 1/4 inch slices to form 1/4 inch shreds. These shreds take slightly longer to cook, add them to the hot oil first.

Ode to the Cabbage

I wonder if the cabbage knows,
She is less lovely than a Rose;
Or does she squat in smug content,
A source of noble nourishment;
Or if she pities for her sins
The rose who has no vitamins;
Or if one thing her green heart knows...
That self-same fire that warms the Rose?
--Anonymous

The key to "putting it all together" is balance. According to Chef Burt Wolfe, "There are no bad foods, just inappropriate amounts." Cheesecake, for example, can fit into a balanced diet. It is a food that should be eaten sometimes. Other foods should be eaten often, such as fresh fruit and vegetables and whole grains.

Plan for different preparation methods. Meals that are all boiled, grilled or baked can be a strain for the cook. Plan to combine parts of a meal in the same dish. For example:

Beef and Vegetable Stir-fry,
Boiled rice,
Warmed, crusty bread
Mango Sorbet

OR

Chicken and Rice Casserole
Steamed Spinach
Cornbread
Chilled Watermelon Chunks

Use only one or two recipes that you must follow closely. Round the meal off with generic items that do not require time consuming steps. This conserves the cook's time and energy and add interest to meals.

Combine recipes that require last-minute preparation with those that can be prepared in advance. Use make ahead foods. When cooking rice, pasta or bread make enough for two meals and freeze some in a zip storage bag. Use frozen vegetables when there is little time for preparation. Grocery stores carry cut vegetables on the salad bar. In fact all the ingredients for a quick stir-fry can be found on the grocery salad bar.

Balance dessert with the meal. Save the high fat and high sugar desserts for special occasions or holidays. Baked apples sprinkled with cinnamon, bananas sauted with brown sugar and a dollop of yogurt, cubes of fresh cantaloupe with honeydew melon, all provide a serving of fruit as dessert.

Meat is usually the most time consuming part of the meal. Cook a turkey breast, cut it in half and freeze half for later. Cut some into cubes for turkey salad, shred some for turkey tacos and slice some for turkey and broccoli casserole. Place precut meat in zip bags, label and date. Always keep something in the freezer for weekday meals.

Vegetable side dishes can make or break a meal. However seasoning can be tricky. Getting carried away with too much butter is all too easy with vegetables. Try seasoning with herbs and spices instead of butter or margarine.

You can microwave vegetables in minutes and they remain bright, tender and delicious. Chopped onions, green peppers, celery and/or fresh parsley enhance the flavor without adding calories.

Also consider using flavored oils, a little goes a long way. Toasted sesame seed oil has a wonderful flavor. Mix a teaspoon of toasted sesame seed oil with the juice of half a lemon and salt and pepper, toss with a pound of cooked broccoli. Mince garlic, chopped chives and chopped green onions with the tops. Quick, easy and delicious.

Whether you are cooking for one or two or for a whole bunch of folks, we all need the same nutrients to stay healthy. Healthy eating is a small part of the big picture. Wellness involves all aspects of your lifestyle. Wise food choices have a tremendous impact on health so try to eat a variety of foods everyday.

Yogurt - Excellent Source of Calcium

Ounce per ounce yogurt has more calcium than milk. It has twice as much calcium as cottage cheese: 300 to 450 milligrams of calcium per cup. This amount represents 1/3 to 1/2 of your daily calcium needs, which is 800 to 1200 mg. per day. Cottage cheese only has 120 to 140 milligrams per cup.

Fruit yogurts are actually less nutritious than plain. The fruit is usually preserves. The more preserves the less yogurt per container. The less yogurt the less calcium and other nutrients. There is also a high amount of sugar. Buy plain yogurt and add your own chopped, sugared fruit. This way you will get the benefit of both fruit and yogurt with much less sugar.

Remember to Fit in Those Stretches

After working in the yard, the garden or after a brisk walk, remember to stretch. Never, never stretch cold muscles. You simply increase soreness and you increase the risk of injury. Warm muscles are more flexible and they stretch without injury. Stretch your back, your hamstring (back of your leg), your neck and your arms. Use the example below:

Hamstring Curl

Stand and hold the back of a chair or a bookcase for support. Keep your back straight, stomach tucked in, shoulders relaxed. Slowly lift your heel toward your buttocks. Grab your ankle if you need to. Hold 10-20 seconds. Now lower your heel. Repeat 10 times. Work the other leg. You will become more flexible over time.

There Are Many Uses for Paintbrushes

• Natural bristle paintbrushes are excellent for basting and brushing on sauces. The bristles are more flexible than pastry brushes and they are easier to keep clean.

• Use a small 1 - 1/2" paintbrush dipped in oil to grease muffin tins and cake pans. It is fast and you can apply a thin even coat.

• An old used paintbrush can be used to apply liquid detergent to stains and "ring around the collar" in the laundry area. You avoid using too much and spilling it all over.

• Use a stiff bristled brush to dust wicker furniture and baskets. The bristles get right in those crevices as no dust cloth can. Also dust what-nots, knick-knacks, window sills, sewing machines and keyboards.

• Keep a paintbrush in the car for brushing the floor mats and cleaning up sand, leaves and other debris that collects.

• Use a natural bristled brush for basting barbecue sauce onto meat on the grill or olive oil onto vegetables or oil onto grates to prevent food from sticking to the grill surface.
  

• On an average day, Hershey produces 2,160,000 kisses.

• Overcooking vegetables break down fiber, making less of it available. If you don't want to eat all your fruits and vegetables raw, try microwaving or steaming al dente, (with slight crispness or firmness) to preserve as much fiber and nutrients as possible.

• Manna, the food that the children of Israel ate during their journey through the wilderness, was and is a complex carbohydrate (starches and fiber).

• Oranges do not ripen after they are picked, but lemons do.

• Scrod is a small cod, weighing less than three pounds.

• Some canned baked beans contain 3-4 grams of fat per serving. Check the label on canned baked beans. Most are very low in fat but a few brands contain fat from pork. All brands are an excellent source of fiber, but nearly all are loaded with salt. It is very easy to cook your own.

• The most popular method of preparing cooked cabbage is Sauerkraut (which is the German salted, fermented cabbage) and for raw cabbage it is coleslaw.