There are many preparations necessary in taking a vacation. In the excitement of planning, often necessary care of the living things that will remain behind is a neglected provision. Plants, both indoors and outdoors, must receive proper care throughout the vacation.

Before leaving on vacation, water all houseplants thoroughly. Place the plants in a location out of direct sunlight; cutting back their light supply will slow the plant's growth so that less water is needed. Enclose the plants in clear plastic bags to hold in moisture, however plastic also holds in heat, so be sure the plants are out of direct sunlight. Place the clay pots containing houseplants in a bathtub or laundry tub filled with a few inches of water. The pots will absorb moisture through the bricks; however some light must be available for the plants to keep living. Houseplants that are put outside for the summer will survive best if they are sunk into the ground in a shady spot or if they are taken indoors.

Vacation lawn care is also important. Before embarking on your vacation, water the grass deeply so the soil is moist to a depth of six or more inches. Mow the lawn shortly before leaving. Cut it shorter than normal but avoid scalping the lawn (this occurs when more than one third of the length is removed); as this predisposes the grass to burn out in dry weather. In an average summer, these procedures will carry the lawn through two weeks. If heat is unusually intense or the vacation long, alternate lawn care should be arranged. Upon returning, cut the lawn longer than normal to avoid scalping. A few days later, mow again at the normal height.

Vegetables should be checked carefully for pest problems and treated pre-vacation. Warm weather stimulates such problems and if not treated before leaving, a full-blown invasion may occur. All ripe or nearly ripe fruit should be picked; overripe fruit produces rots, promoting disease and insect problems. Such plants such as cucumbers or beans stop production if seeds mature. Weed the vegetables thoroughly and mulch them before leaving. Mulching with grass clippings, compost or leaves will prevent some weed problems and will slow the evaporation of moisture from the soil, thus requiring less watering. It is important to make sure the soil is moist to a depth of six to eight inches.

Remove the seeds and spent flowers on all flowering plants before leaving. Remember, many annuals will stop blooming if their seeds are mature. Water the plants well, to a depth of six to eight inches. Most established ornamentals will be okay for about three weeks without care.

Depending on the time of year, fruit may or may not require any special care. Apples or other tree fruit that require frequent spraying may require someone to spray them during the vacation time.

If the vacation will last for longer than two weeks, a "plant sitter" may be recruited with specific directions as to what is to be done.

Source: MSU Extension

Cutting rose flowers is in itself an important cultural operation. Improper cutting can injure the plant and decrease its vigor. Always use sharp tools, breaking or twisting off flowers injures the remaining wood. Use a hook blade pruner or sharp knife for a clean cut.

It probably is best if you do not cut any flowers during the first season of bloom. If early flowers are not cut, the plants usually develop into large bushes by fall. Some flowers may be cut at that time. If you do cut flowers during the first season, cut very short stems only. Removing foliage with long-stemmed flowers robs the plant of its food-manufacturing capacity, which reduces growth potential and subsequent flower yield. Even when plants are well established, cut stem only as long as necessary. Be sure that at least two leaves remain between the cut and the main stem.

If you do not cut flowers, remove them just before the petals fall. Remove withered individual flowers in a cluster to give remaining flowers more room to develop. After all flowers of a cluster have withered, cut off the entire stem just above the top five-leaflet leaf using sharp pruners or a knife.

Cut roses just as the two outer petals unfold - they will remain in good condition longer than if you cut them when they are fully open. To keep roses fresh longer, cut them in late afternoon and place them immediately in water.

After cutting blossoms, remove any lower leaves that will be in water and recut the stems under water, removing about 1 inch of stem. This removes the air bubble that formed when the stem was cut in air. Then, place the stem in warm water (100 degrees F) to which you've added a floral preservative. Floral preservatives add carbohydrates and reduce water pH to an acid condition, which retards bacterial growth.

Before arranging flowers, clean the container first with soap and water, then disinfect with a 10 percent bleach solution - 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. Rinse well with tap water and add the warm water/preservative solution. Place the container with the roses in a dark, cool (38 to 50 degrees F, if possible) room for 2 to 4 hours.

As you arrange the flowers, again cut stems under water and place them in the container previously filled with the same type of preservative solution as described above. Freshly cut roses should last a week indoors if they are cut at the proper stage, handled correctly and placed in sterile containers with warm water and a floral preservative. Whether using a preservative or not, flowers will last longer if you replace the water in the container every 2 to 3 days.

Other ways to extend the life of cut roses and most cut flowers include:

• Place out of direct sunlight.

• Place away from the front of a hot or cold air register.

• Add water daily.

• Place in a cool, dark place at night or whenever the arrangement is not being appreciated.

• Rearrange your flowers as old flowers wilt; cut the remaining flower stems and make a smaller arrangement.

Source: MSU Extension

Summer storms can wreak havoc on trees and shrubs. Lightning, Wind and Heat damage can be devastating to your plants so I hope the following repair tips help you cope with those situations.

Lightning

Lightning strikes can cause various symptoms. They usually loosen some bark, which hangs on the tree in strips. The amount of bark loosened will depend on the severity of the strike. Sometimes only a narrow strip is loosened; other times a large portion of the circumference of the trunk is affected. A tree struck by lightning may show no symptoms until it dies mysteriously days or years later. The lightning bolt may pass through the trunk and seriously damage the roots.

Remove loose bark and broken branches as soon as possible after the strike. The tree may show no other effects or it may die suddenly within a short time. All you can do is to reduce other stresses, such as dryness and pests.

Wind

Wind injury is usually obvious and not difficult to diagnose. Branches or the trunk can be broken by the wind, trees can be uprooted and forked trees can be split.

Cut back the stubs of broken branches to just outside the shoulder ring. Split trees can be put back together with a combination of threaded steel rods and cables, but the results may not justify the expense.

A large uprooted tree should be removed, but you may be able to save smaller trees. You need to replant the exposed roots as soon as possible. Sometimes the roots are not exposed but the root zone is lifted up when the tree's roots are pulled upward. In either case, guy the tree for support and then water to settle the soil back around the roots. Some dieback may occur. The extent of debark will depend on the amount of root injury the tree suffered.

Heat

Hot, dry summer weather can cause leaf scorch. The leaf tissue on the edges and between the main leaf veins dies. Eventually the entire leaf may be dead except for a narrow band of live, green tissue along the veins. The tree may be affected uniformly or on only one side or on just a few branches. Plants growing near roads or in other situations with much reflected heat and light are most likely to be scorched.

Scorch can also be a symptom of insect and disease problems that interrupt the flow of water from the roots. Root diseases can reduce root efficiency so that less water reaches the leaves, which then scorch. If you can diagnose and stop the problem, you may be able to stop the scorching.

Scorching related to high temperatures may be due to lack of soil moisture or an inadequate root system. If dry soil is the cause, watering may stop the scorching. If the plant just does not have enough roots,, it may scorch during very hot, windy weather even though soil moisture is adequate. Little can be done in this case.

Allowing the soil to dry excessively before watering can kill the roots. Then when the plant is watered, the reduced root system can not supply enough water to the leaves. Construction injury can cause compacted soil and root removal or death that leads to scorching.

Source: MSU Extension

Bruce Spangenberg, CES Educator in Grayslake has written a series of 26 fact sheets on lawn care. This series covers topics such as grass selection, establishment, fertilizing, weed control and more.

July

• Irrigation (as needed or allow lawn to go dormant)

• Monitoring for pests/problems (sod webworm)

August

• Monitor for pests (annual white grubs; mid-August thru September) (sod webworm)

• Irrigation (as needed)

• Prepare for seeding, overseeding (optimum time)

• Seeding - latter half of month (optimum time)

Grilling/Cooking Hamburgers to a Safe TemperatureAmerica's all time favorite sandwich is still the hamburger. Whether it is dressed up with exotic imported cheese on a french roll or grilled to perfection in the backyard everyone loves an occasional "burger". In fact, nothing says summer grilling and picnic fun more than juicy, fresh from the grill burgers.

Americans eat nearly 25 million hamburgers a year. In recent years, numerous outbreaks of food poisoning and deaths associated with undercooked hamburgers and ground beef alarmed and saddened the nation. Since the 1993 outbreak in the Western United States, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) has been investigating ways to insure the safety of ground beef and hamburger. Until recently, hamburgers were considered safe when the middle of the burger turned brown during cooking. However, new research now shows that using just this visual check for doneness may not be good enough. As of June 10, 1997, USDA now recommends that consumers use a meat thermometer when cooking hamburger to be sure that it is safe to eat.

E. coli 0157:H7 is the bacteria responsible for numerous outbreaks of foodborne disease. This bacteria can survive both refrigerator and freezer storage. In fact, it can only be killed by heat, 160 Degrees F to be exact.

The latest research shows that some hamburger may turn prematurely brown before a safe internal temperature of 160 Degrees has been reached. Normally, ground beef will turn from red to pink to brown as it is cooked. But there are exceptions to the rule. The following conditions may affect the normal color progression in ground beef. For instance....

• if seasoning or flavorings, such as ground spices or spice extracts are used ground beef may remain pink at temperatures well above the 160 Degrees F which is the final cooking temperature recommended for consumers.

• if soy sauce, worcestershire sauce and/or other sauces are added to the meat before cooking, hamburgers may turn brown before the temperature reaches 160 Degrees F.

• if ground beef is somewhat brown already, it may look fully cooked before it reaches a safe temperature. The meat may have turned brown before cooking as a result of temperature abuse or it may have been stored in the refrigerator for an extended amount of time. When oxidation takes place it causes the meat to turn brown.

• if the meat was ground from the carcasses of an older animal, although safe, cooked ground beef patties may appear brown before they have reached a safe internal temperature.

• also low-fat beef patties may remain pink even though they have reached an internal temperature higher than the recommended 160 Degrees F.

For these reasons using the visual checks for doneness may not be good enough. The USDA now recommends that consumers use a meat thermometer when cooking hamburger to be sure that it is safe to eat.

Recent research has shown some ground beef patties look well done at an internal temperature as low as 131 Degrees F. This temperature is too low and won't kill E. coli 0157:H7. A meat thermometer is the only reliable way to check for thorough doneness.

If you do not have a food thermometer, USDA recommends that consumers judge doneness in the following ways:

• Color of cooked-out juices: the juices should have no trace of pink, red or cloudiness.

• Color of cooked meat: ground beef should be brown in the center.

• Texture of cooked meat: cooked meat has a firm or flaky texture, raw and undercooked meat has a soft, mushy texture, regardless of the color.

For more food safety information, call the USDA's Meat and Poultry Hotline at 1-800-535-4555.

Remember, if it's pink in the middle,
it is cooked too little,
put it back on the griddle!

Fruit CoolerDid you know that 76% of American households have blenders, but only 32% of blender-owners actually use them. Here's your chance to make good use of the blender again. Now, just where did you store that blender?

Now that the temperature has zipped to 90 Degrees F plus, we will all look for something cool to drink. Artificially flavored, artificially colored, carbonated, sugar water (better known as a soft drink, soda water or pop, depending on where you are from) can be an expensive source of empty calories. Most pop also contains caffeine. Caffeine is a diuretic. Diuretics stimulate the loss of fluid from the body, which can contribute to dehydration.

So why not treat yourself to a tall glass of non-caffeine, non-alcoholic, icy, Fruit Cooler. Coolers are easy to make, fat free and so delicious. It is also a great way to increase your fruit intake toward the recommended "5 a Day" (3 vegetable and 2 fruit servings). Instructions for several varieties of Coolers are below, or invent your own Cooler by blending your favorite summer fruits.

Pineapple-Banana Cooler

Start with very ripe fruit. Use bananas that have developed brown "honey spots." These spots indicate high sugar content and are perfect for making a Cooler. To determine the ripeness of a pineapple, it should be fragrant and the top leaves should be easy to pull out with little force. Ripen pineapples at room temperature.

1 large banana, peeled
1 large ripe pineapple
1 12 ounce can of frozen tropical fruit juice, thawed (or substitute orange juice)
4 cups chilled sparkling water, or tap water
Lemon slices
Peel the pineapple, remove the eyes with a potato peeler, core and cut into 3/4 inch chunks. Peel the banana and cut into 1/2 inch chunks. Arrange fruit in a single layer on a cookie sheet and freeze solid, about one hour.

In a blender or food processor, using the steel knife, process half of fruit at a time to fine snow. Pour into a large bowl. Add fruit juice and sparkling water to fruit-snow, then taste. Adjust flavor by adding water to taste. Float lemon slices on top. Yield 8 cups. *Variation: add 3 cups seeded, frozen watermelon chunks.

Orange Cooler

Here's a great way to boost your calcium intake on a hot summer day. Try an Orange Cooler for a quick, high-energy, low-fat breakfast.

1 1/2 cups crushed ice
1/2 cup non-fat dry milk
4-6 whole frozen strawberries
6 oz. Bcan frozen orange juice concentrate
Dash of cinnamon
Place all ingredients in a blender or food processor and mix well. Adjust taste by adding water, if needed. Sprinkle cinnamon on top. Delicious. Makes two 8 ounce servings.

Sweet CornSweet corn season is here! Nothing signals summer's peak like a fresh ear of Illinois grown sweet corn. We live in what is known as the "corn belt." Drive anywhere north, south or west of Chicago and lush green cornfields stretch as far as the eye can see. Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska and Ohio lead the nation in corn yield. Forty-five percent of the world production is grown in the United States.

Whether you know it or not, corn is probably a part of your daily diet. It is used in packaged foods as high fructose corn syrup, it is processed into corn oil and ready-to-eat breakfast cereal. Dent corn is fed to livestock (beef, pork, veal, poultry and farm-raised fish) and what would a movie be without the popped variety?

Milling removes the hull and germ from the corn kernel, leaving what is called hominy. Hominy can be dried and used as a cereal (grits) or ground into corn flour. Coarsely ground or stone ground corn is called cornmeal, while further processing yields cornstarch.

But when it comes to fresh sweet corn, less is better. There is nothing better than an ear of truly, fresh, lightly boiled corn-on-the-cob. Purists eat it plain while gourmets adulterate it with butter, salt and pepper. Anyway you like it, now is the time.

Sweet corn comes in several varieties. White, yellow and combination yellow and white kernels are sweet or ultra sweet. Today new varieties of sweet corn retain moisture and sugar content for up to two weeks after harvesting. The sooner you eat it, the better it will taste. As for now, grill it, boil it, fry it, make fritters, corn cakes, add it to corn bread and muffins. Nutritionally speaking corn is low in calories, a good source of protein, carbohydrates, fiber and beta carotene (the yellow variety). The major mineral contributions are potassium and iron.

When selecting sweet corn look for bright green husks. The silk should be lightly brown on the ends. Look at the stalk ends as well. It should be lightly yellow. The stalk is white when sweet corn is first harvested and it gets darker with age. Peel back the husk and look at the first few rows of kernels. They should be plump and translucent. Using your thumb nail, pierce a kernel. Milky juice should spurt forth. If one ear shows these signs of freshness, they will all follow suit.

Sweet corn season peaks in July and continues straight through September. It won't get any cheaper or fresher than it is now. Even at the grocery store you can find 8 ears for a dollar. At U-Pick Farms and roadside stands it get cheaper. Truly fresh corn is also brought in by local farmers at Farmers' Markets in your community.

The Hummingbird Society

This nonprofit organization was formed last year and already has hundreds of members. It aims to provide public education, promote research and aid in habitat protection. Annual dues (including the quarterly Hummingbird Connection) are $20 if you live in the U.S., $26 if you live elsewhere. Write to The Hummingbird Society, 249 E. Main St., Newark, DE 19711, or visit their website at www.hummingbird.org.

Burpee's "Specialty Grower Catalogue" for 1998

This is being targeted to commercial greenhouse growers, operators of roadside stands, growers of cut flowers and perhaps most significantly, organic vegetable growers. An ad for the catalogue says, "None of our vegetable seed is treated in any way. We share your concern for the environment and for the health of your customers." You can request a free copy of the 1998 "Specialty Grower Catalogue" from Burpee, 099879 Burpee Bldg., Warminster, PA 18974.

1997 Urban Tree of the Year

The Society of Municipal arborists has chosen the Japanese tree lilac (Syringa reticulata) cultivar 'Ivory Silk' as the Urban Tree of the Year for 1997, based on a nationwide poll of Society members. 'Ivory Silk' requires very little maintenance and is well suited to stressful city environments. It blooms later than common lilacs and is attractive all year round.

Use of Hair as a Fertilizer

University of Missouri Cooperative Extension Horticulture Specialist Elena Victory reports better growth and flowering of Madagascar periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus) planted in nutrient-poor subsoil when fertilized with human hair than when fertilized with sawdust, pine needles, peat moss, straw or nothing. What made the difference? Hair contains about 18% nitrogen, while the other materials applied in the experiment contain much less nitrogen. So, 10 pounds of hair (about three bushels!) should supply nearly two pounds of nitrogen. An appropriate application rate for home landscapes and gardens is 10 pounds of hair per 100 square feet - so if you want to fertilize even a moderately sized area with hair, you'd better have quite a few hair suppliers (namely, barber shops and beauty salons)! The hair can be incorporated directly into the soil or added to a compost pile.

Reference: Elena Victory, "A Hair Raising Experience," Branching Out, May 1997, 3. (Chris Starbuck, Dept. Of Horticulture, 1-87 Ag. Bldg., Columbia, MO 65211.

1998 NGA Youth Garden Grants Program Applications

The National Gardening Association is currently distributing applications for its 15th Annual Garden Grants Program. Each grant, worth over $700, includes tools, seeds, plants and garden products donated by 27 companies; 300 grants to schools and youth programs across the U.S. will be made for use in 1998. Programs that involve at least 15 children between the ages of 3 and 18 are eligible; in awarding the grants, consideration will be given to educational, social or environmental programming; sustainability; community support; strong leadership; need; and innovation.

To receive an application, contact Garden Grants Dept., National Gardening Association, 180 Flynn Ave., Burlington, VT 05401, phone 800-538-7476. The following information is required: name, title, school or organization, address and phone number. The deadline for receiving completed applications is November 15, 1997.

Old Gardening (Etc.) Books

The latest catalog ($1 postpaid) from Calendula Horticultural Books (1411 NW 120th St., Vancouver, WA 98685) lists used books in the following categories: Gardening; Landscape Architecture and garden History; Vegetables; flower Monographs; Roses; Pomology; agriculture, Botany, Wildflowers and Floras; and Miscellaneous.

Instructions for Planting Artistic Raised Flower Gardens

Hillis Floral Expressions (Box 0823, Vestal, NY 13851) is offering guidelines (complete with photographs) on techniques for planting raised flower gardens for celebrations, logos, cartoon characters and so forth. The cost of the guidelines is $7 postpaid.

SMR-REDTM Selective Reflecting Mulch

This plastic film acts similar to a black plastic mulch to warm the soil, but it also reflects far-red light into the plant canopy, resulting in a typical increase in yields of high-quality early tomatoes of 12-20% relative to yields with black plastic mulch. The film was developed by researchers at the U.S. Department of Agriculture and Clemson University and it is expected to receive a patent. It is now available commercially from Ken-Bar, Inc., 25 Walkers Brook Dr., Reading, MA 01867-0704, phone 617-944-0003 or 800-336-8882.

"Whatever Works" Least-Toxic Pest Control Catalog

This free catalog lists more than 200 environment-friendly pest control solutions for gardens and homes. Contact Whatever Works, Earth Science Bldg., 74 20th St., Brooklyn, NY 11232, phone 800-499-6757.

Removing Old Annual Flowers

Annuals bloom better if the old flowers are removed. This prevents seed formation that normally makes annuals start to decline. The practice is particularly important when growing ageratum, calendula, cosmos, marigold, pansy, rudbeckia, scabiosa, verbena and zinnia.

July - Indoors

Protect houseplants from strong sunlight, it can cause foliage to burn.

Check outdoor houseplants for insects.

Water houseplants with water at room temperature.

Keep houseplants away from cold air coming from air conditioners.

Root cuttings of houseplants such as coleus, geraniums, Wandering Jew.

Outdoors

Renew your organic mulches; they break down rapidly in warm weather.

Water lawn deeply (5" to 6" deep).

With warm temperatures, check container grown flowers daily.

Provide a fresh water source for insect eating birds.

Remove all sources of stagnant water to control mosquitoes.

Cut roses late in the day; they will last longer.

Join a garden club; many members are well informed in a number of horticultural areas.

Pinch back snapdragons to promote a second flush of bloom.

Stake tall flowers to prevent wind damage.

Try to attract hummingbirds.

Great hummingbird web site at http://www.derived.com/~lanny/hummers/

Divide and replant iris.

Check squash vines for squash vine borers; eggs are laid on the stems.

Prevent cucumbers from developing a bitter taste by keeping soil moist.

Cucumbers will not remain at peak on the vine; pick vines often.

Don't refrigerate fresh tomatoes; fruit textures deteriorate quickly in the cold.

Vegetable gardens need one inch of water per week. Do not water in the evening; leaves will not dry and this provides great conditions for diseases.

Pinch off the fuzzy growing tips of vine crops to stop them from taking over the garden.

Let some onion flower heads form instead of picking them out; when dried they look great in arrangements.

Stock up on plant supplies such as peat moss, vermiculite, pots, pesticides and fertilizer before they are removed from shelves.

Plant snap beans, broccoli plants, cabbage plants, cauliflower plants, Chinese cabbage plants, carrots, leaf lettuce, mustard greens, spinach and radishes for fall harvest.

Grass that lies flat after being walked on needs to be watered.

Watering lawns in the evening is an invitation for lawn disease; water in early A.M. Late August is best time to seed lawns.

Mow your lawn just before going on vacation.

Plant autumn flowering crocus and colchicum.

Cut back leggy petunias to produce vigorous new growth and flowering.

Frequent watering of container plants will leach nutrients from the soil; so fertilize often.

Order spring flowering bulbs.

Control weeds before they go to seed.

Continue deadheading (removal of spent flowers) roses, annuals and perennials.

Plant peonies at the end of August through October. For free factsheet on Peonies call 773-233-0476.

Check on grub damage (browned dead grass) in the lawn. For grub control factsheet call 773-233-0476.

Lycopene and Tomatoes

Lycopene is the carotenoid that gives tomatoes their bright red color. Researchers have found that Lycopene may also be a powerful antioxidant offering protection against some forms of cancer, especially prostate cancer. Researchers at the University of Illinois in Chicago also found that women who had high blood levels of Lycopene had only one-fifth the chance of developing a precancerous condition of the cervix. Other phyto-(plant) chemicals in tomatoes also play a vital role in protection.

According to Dr. Steven Clinton, of the Dana-Farber Cancer Institute and Harvard Medical School, "it is premature to conclude that Lycopene can prevent cancer, however, Lycopene exhibits a number of protective properties suggesting a role in carcinogenesis. So, eat your tomatoes boys and girls.

The Flack on Flax

Flaxseed contains a number of components which are thought to play a role in reducing the risk of several diseases according to Dr. Lillian Thompson, Department of Nutational Sciences, University of Toronto. Flaxseed is also rich in Omega-3 which may have protective qualities in protection against heart disease as well. Natural Ovens of Manitowoc Wisconsin makes a bread enriched with flaxseed. Look for it in your local grocery stores (Cubs, Dominick's, Jewel and Omni).