Uses - Wooden fences are common and functional design features in residential landscapes.

Fences:

• provide privacy and security,

• can be used to create and define outdoor spaces

• modify wind and sun exposure,

• keep the kids and the dog in and the neighbors out.

Fences are a major part of the landscape budget and have a tremendous impact on the quality and aesthetics of the landscape. Since fences are so important, they should be considered a major portion of the entire landscape, not separate element.

Unfortunately, the type of fence used in many residential landscapes is based on the sale prices for fence panels at the local lumberyard or fence company. Many designers also limit themselves to inexpensive but boring fence "kits". This results in fences that are incompatible with the architectural style of the home and other landscape features or fail to fulfill an intended purpose. Dynamic fences are easily constructed and making a fashion statement doesn't really cost as much as you might think.

Non-design Factors

Several non-design factors should be considered when contemplating installation of a fence.

• First, be aware of the legal ramifications. Some communities limit maximum heights for privacy fences. These often vary depending on the area of the yard in which the fence is located. For instance, side yard fences may be limited to six feet high, while eight foot is allowed in the back of the property.

• Also, check for subdivision covenants that may restrict fence material or style.

• Review deed descriptions to establish the exact property lines before constructing a fence. It is recommended that the fence be set back a few inches on the homeowner's property. This can save some hassles in the future.

Design

The particular design of a fence is limited only by the imagination of the designer, the talent of the construction crew and the budget of the client. Since the strong vertical and horizontal lines of a fence make it a conspicuous landscape feature, it must blend with the other site features. Determine the type of fence most appropriate for the site and architecture of the home.

Solid fences

Solid or board-on-board fences should relate to the slope of the land. If the line of the fence undulates with the slope it is visually disruptive. If a solid fence is to be constructed on a slope, it is best to step the sections of the fence down the slope, keeping the top horizontal. An extension at the bottom of some panels may be necessary if one purpose of the fence is to corral pets.

Open fences

Open fences such as split-rail or post-rail are most appropriate if they follow the contour of the land. Fences that can be seen through harmonize with the site. Even though they provide minimal security or privacy, they are popular for demarcation of boundaries and provide psychological "assurance" for the client. Fences that are visually open are particularly suited for rural properties.

Straight-line fences

Straight-line fences are the most economical to construct and are the most common design used in residential landscapes. Additional interest can be provided if offsets or jogs in the fence line are used. A gate can be hidden by planting areas or a little mystery provided with offsets. Obviously, the offset must also be on the client's property.

Plant material

Integrate plant material with fence sections. A backyard completely surrounded by a solid fence can easily become claustrophobic. Fences are also expensive. Integrating plants with fences can reduce the overall cost of the landscape project and develop a more open feeling. Use solid wood fence for areas where absolute year-round screening is essential. Trees and shrubs can provide screening for less critical areas and reduce the monotonous line of long fences.

Fences offer opportunities for distinctive plantings. The strong vertical lines of the ends of fences or baffles should be tempered with plant material to blend them with the landscape. Horizontal lines of long fence sections are softened by plantings including material, such as small trees, that will grow above the fence and disrupt the line. Corners created by the junction of two fences create powerful attractions for the eye of the viewer. These can be mellowed or accentuated with plants, depending upon the situation and the whim of the designer.

Space

Fences can be used to develop spaces within the landscape. There are no rules that I am aware of which state that fences mut be located only on property lines. Fence sections or baffles used within the landscape creates distinctive and secluded areas. Fences can be used as backdrops for plantings or to create corner niches for accent plantings. A short fence section thoughtfully placed near the patio creates year-round privacy without encircling the entire yard.

Maintenance

Consider maintenance, durability, availability, cost and character wood when selecting fencing materials. Western red cedar, cypress and red wood are naturally decay resistant and provide a pleasing character. Several preservatives are available, including pressure treated material. All wood that comes in contact with the ground, such as posts and other supports, must be treated with a preservative. Choose galvanized or aluminum nails to prevent rust spots and stains from developing on the boards.

Source: University of Hawaii, CES

Powdery Mildew Update

Powdery mildew is now present in many gardens, especially those with dense plantings and tree cover. Powdery mildew develops best on warm to hot days, cool nights and under conditions that cause dew to form on leaves. The disease has been found on lilacs, zinnias, crabapples, dogwoods, sycamores, turf and many other hosts.

New Publications

The Good Guys! Natural Enemies of Insects is a set of 31 laminated cards that provide full- color photos and life history information on beneficial natural enemies of insects. The cards were developed and produced by Mike Jeffords, Sue Post and Rob Wiedenmann from the Illinois Natural History Survey and Cliff Sadof from Purdue University. The cards are available for $8 from the Distribution Office, Illinois Natural History Survey, 607 East Peabody Drive, Champaign, IL 61820, (217) 333-6880.

Tomato Problems

Maturing tomato fruit sometimes develop large dead areas on the surface. The two most common causes of these lesions are blossom-end rot and sunscald.

Pepper, summer squash and other cucurbit crops may also show this problem.

Blossom-end rot

Blossom-end rot develops as necrotic areas at the blossom end of the fruit. Tomato fruit tips turn brown to black, while the ends on peppers usually become light brown or tan. Blossom-end rot results from a calcium deficiency in the plant caused by large fluctuations in soil moisture. When soil moisture is limited, plant growth slows and nutrient uptake by the roots is reduced. If water becomes available again, from rain or irrigation, the plant begins to grow rapidly, but the uptake of calcium lags behind. Thus, the rapidly expanding fruit tip does not have enough calcium available to develop properly, even though there is plenty of calcium in the soil.

The best method for controlling blossom-end rot is to maintain even and adequate levels of soil moisture. With soil that becomes neither too dry nor too wet, the plants grow at an even rate and the nutrients stay in balance. Of course, this goal is not easy to accomplish.

Sunscald

Sunscald also causes large necrotic areas on tomato and pepper fruit. Sunscald develops when an area on the fruit surface becomes too hot from sun exposure. On tomatoes and some pepper, therefore, sunscald often develops on the sides or "shoulders" of the fruit, near the stem end. Sunscald often develops on fruit that forms in the shade of the plant canopy but which is suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. Sunscald often occurs when plants lose leaves from foliar diseases. On tomatoes, early blight and Septoria leaf blight can cause premature defoliation, which leads to sunscald. On peppers, the defoliation occurs when plants infected with bacterial spot drop their leaves. Vascular wilt diseases and bacterial canker can also cause defoliation and, thus, lead to sunscald.

Avoid sunscald by controlling diseases that cause premature defoliation. Grow tomato varieties that are resistant to Verticillium and Fusarium wilts. Plant pepper varieties producing fruit that hang down and are covered by foliage. Minimize plant breakage during harvesting to avoid suddenly exposing the fruit to sunlight.

Japanese Beetle Update

Japanese beetles continue to be present and feeding on rose, crabapple, linden, birch and many other trees and shrubs. Numbers appear to be lower this year throughout the state, reducing the need for frequent insecticide applications. These beetles will be present until the third week of August.

Clean Houseplant Foliage

Removing dust from the foliage of your houseplants keeps them attractive and allows them to receive the maximum amount of light. Cleaning also can go a long way toward controlling some insect pests.

Leaves of houseplants should be cleaned once or twice a month with a soft brush, damp cloth, sponge, feather duster or simply by rinsing them with a gentle shower of water. Plants with hairy leaves, such as African violets, can be syringed occasionally with clear, room-temperature water. When using a cloth, sponge or towel, put one in each hand and clean the upper and lower leaf surfaces at the same time. If using a feather duster to clean your houseplants, upon finishing, spraying the duster with insecticidal soap or rubbing alcohol will kill any mites or insects that may cling to the feathers.

A high shine can be developed on many foliage plants by merely rubbing the leaves gently with soft cheesecloth or a camel's hair or sable brush. But beware of commercial leaf polishes. They are usually not necessary and can be toxic to the plant. They can inhibit transpiration. Just warm water and a soft cloth will do the trick. If you really want to use a leaf polish, test it first. Apply it to a couple of leaves, rinse off the excess and wait a couple of days to see if the plant tolerates it. Make sure to cover the soil with plastic to prevent contamination. Do not allow your plant cleaner to accumulate in the leaf bases and avoid using leaf cleaners on flowers and buds.

Source: Oregon State University

Houseplant Safety

Most of our homes are graced with houseplants. As adults, we realize these plants are to be looked at and not eaten, but children may have other ideas. Be sure children understand about houseplant safety and if necessary, place houseplants so little hands cannot reach them. Following are some plants that require caution.

Members of the Aracea family

These plants contain needle-like crystals of calcium oxalate that penetrate and irritate tissues of the mouth and throat. Chemicals in their sap, such as asparagine (a protein), also can cause inflammation of mucous membranes. Plants in this family include dieffenbachia, philodendron, caladium and elephant's ear. Symptoms of poisoning from dieffenbachia are intense burning and irritation of the mouth, tongue and lips. Although rare, if the reaction is severe enough, the swelling can seal off the breathing passages. Philodendron, caladium and elephant's ear produce the same types of symptoms when ingested. If a piece of the corm (underground stem) is eaten, symptoms are a fiery burning of the mouth and throat.

Euphorbiaceae (spurge) family

Most members of the spurge family have a milky sap that is acrid and toxic. This sap can cause dermatitis in some people and poisoning if eaten by someone who is allergic to the chemicals in the sap. Members of this family include the crown-of-thorns, the pencil tree (milk bush), poinsettia and snow-on-the-mountain. Snow-on-the-mountain can cause blisters and skin burns.

It is appropriate to note here the debate about the poinsettia. The original warnings on this plat were from a report in 1919 on a child who died in Hawaii where poinsettia is used as an outdoor ornamental. However, laboratory tests have NOT confirmed the toxicity of the plant when ingested. Poison control centers receive many reports each year of ingestion of poinsettia, but only occasional abdominal pain and nausea have been documented.

Solanaceae family

These plants contain solanine, a poisonous glycoalkaloid, that is extremely toxic even in small amounts. Jerusalem cherry is an ornamental in this family. Eating its berries cause symptoms ranging from headaches and stomach pains to shock and paralysis of the circulatory and respiratory systems. However, not all members of the Solanaceae family are toxic; for example, tomatoes and peppers.

Now that you are aware of possible dangers with certain houseplants, you can take steps to ensure the safety of others around these lovely plants. Try using hanging baskets, high shelves or window boxes to keep plants away from children. You don't need to stop displaying the plants mentioned above, just do so carefully.

Source: Virginia CES

Manual Sod Cutter

This tool cuts one-foot-wide strips; basically, it consists of cultivator-style handles attached to a horizontal roller down in the front, with a U-shaped blade mounted a few inches behind the roller. Suggested uses include removing sod for flower bed installation and patching established lawns. Fore more information, contact Quail Manufacturing Co., 6250 Industry Ave., N.W., #222, Ramsey, MN 55303, phone 800-786-9523 or 612-422-1991.

August

Outdoors

• Chop herbs into an ice cube tray, cover with water and freeze. Store cubes in freezer in plastic bags. Add cubes to prepared food or soups.

• Plan for a fall vegetable garden. For a free factsheet send a SASE (.32) to Fall Gardening, U of I Extension, Chicago HS for Ag Sciences, 3807 W 111th St, Chicago, IL 60355.

• Harvest all vegetables before going on vacation or ask a relative or neighbor to harvest while you're gone.

• Pinch off onion flower buds to make sure plant is putting all its energy into the developing bulb.

• Be careful when cultivating around vine crops; their roots extend as far as the vines.

• Pick summer squash and zucchini daily to avoid baseball bat size squash.

• Keep records of harvesting dates to help in planning next year's garden.

• If you don't have a vegetable garden, plan on attending your local farmers' market to purchase farm fresh produce.

• Stock up on plant supplies such as peat moss, vermiculite, pots, pesticides and fertilizer before they are removed from shelves.

• Plant snap beans, broccoli plants, cabbage plants, cauliflower plants, Chinese cabbage plants, carrots, leaf lettuce, mustard greens, spinach and radishes for fall harvest.

• Grass that lies flat after being walked on needs to be watered.

• Watering lawns in the evening is an invitation for lawn diseases; water in early A.M.

• Late August is best time to seed lawns.

• Mow your lawn just before going on vacation.

• Plant autumn flowering crocus and colchicum.

• Cut back leggy petunias to produce vigorous new growth and flowering.

• Frequent watering of container plants will leach nutrients from the soil; so fertilize often.

• Order spring flowering bulbs.

• Separate lily-of-the-valley crowns every three years.

• Plant lilies.

• Dig up new garden beds for the next growing season; add organic matter.

• Plant chrysanthemums for fall color.

• Plant pansies, they thrive in cool, fall weather.

• Save flower seeds from non-hybrids by allowing seeds to mature; spread seeds on newspaper, turn to dry and store in glass jars at 48-50 degrees F.

• Pot up coleus and begonias for winter color.

• Have newspaper, cloths and cardboard boxes handy for possible frosts.

• Fertilize trees and shrubs after leaves begin to drop.

• Prune infected or dead areas of rose bushes to reduce black spot.

• Plant hardy spring flowering bulbs. For free factsheet on planting spring bulbs, send a SASE (.32) to: Spring Bulbs, U of I Extension, Chicago HS for Ag Sciences, 3807 W 111th St, Chicago, IL 60355.

• If you're not sure which end of the bulb is the top, plant bulbs on their side; the stem will grow upright.

• Dig up caladium bulbs; let them dry and store in a warm, dry place.

• Compact varieties of geraniums such as Orbit and Hollywood make good plants for a winter window garden.

Indoors

• Check outdoor houseplants during hot spells to see if watering is needed.

• Wash windows where houseplants will be placed for the winter.

• Let amaryllis bulbs go dormant; they need a month of rest before being forced back into growth.

• Gradually reintroduce houseplants placed outdoors for the summer back into the indoor environment before temperatures drop below 55 degrees F.

• Check houseplants being reintroduced to the indoor environment for insects; isolate reintroduced houseplants from houseplant collection for two to three weeks.

Most homeowners use lawn mowers and string trimmers to maintain their landscapes. Some are gasoline powered, but others are electrical. Electrical tools used outdoors can be extremely dangerous if not handled with care and under the right operating conditions. Following are some general safety points for using electrical equipment:

• Never use electrical equipment when it is raining outside.

• If the area where you are working outside is still wet from a prior rain, wear rubber-soled boots to provide some protection against shock or slipping.

• In general, when using a mower or a string trimmer, wear long trousers to protect your legs from stones or sticks and wear shoes or boots with protected toe caps, such as steel-toe boots. Always wear approved, comfortable safety goggles to protect your eyes from flying debris.

• When using an electric lawn mower or string trimmer, always keep the electrical cord behind you. Trail it over your shoulder or hold a short loop in your hand. Also, be sure to always cut away from, not toward, the electrical cord.

• When using electric hedge trimmers, keep both hands on the handles. Also, be aware that the farther the trimmers are away from your body, the less control you have. Don't strain yourself - rest your arms when they start to tire.

• Children and pets can be a distraction, so be especially careful when using electrical equipment when they are in your work area, or better yet, keep them out of the area completely while you are working. A child can trip over or move an electrical cord, with disastrous consequences.

• If the machine you are using stops because of an obstruction or electrical failure, unplug the machine before you start to check it or attempt to remove any obstruction.

Always follow any precautions and guidelines given on the electrical equipment you buy. You may also want to talk with a person experienced in the work you are going to do to see what you will need to make your gardening task safer and easier.

Source: Virginia Cooperative Extension

Managing Yellowjackets

Identification

Yellowjackets are commonly confused with honey bees. Yellowjackets are the same size as honey bees, but have bright yellow and black stripes and very little hair. Honey bees tend to be covered with pale yellow fuzzy hairs without a distinctive stripe pattern. Popular cartoon depictions of honey bees are often misleading...and look more like yellow- jackets than the honey bees they portray.

The two common species of yellowjackets in the midwest are the eastern yellowjacket which usually nests in the ground and the German yellowjacket that has a habit of nesting in wall voids of structures. Yellowjacket workers, the most commonly encountered yellowjackets, are about 1/2 inch long. The queen is about 3/4 inch long.

Biology

Yellowjackets, like other social insects, have a caste (division of labor) system. Each nest has a queen whose purpose is to reproduce. Male yellowjackets fertilize the queen and sterile female workers find food, take care of the queen, defend the nest and care for the young.

Single queens begin building nests in the spring (May). Depending on the species, she will locate a hole underground, often an abandoned rodent burrow or in a structure and construct a golf ball sized nest of paper that is made by mixing wood fibers with her saliva. She lays eggs and cares for the grub-like larvae in the nest. The first generation of sterile female workers emerge in June and assume the care of the nest which allows the queen to concentrate on reproduction. Yellowjacket adults feed on nectar, fruit juices, sap and other liquids and provide insects and carrion to the larvae. The population of worker yellowjackets increases during the summer and peaks in early to mid-August. Nests may contain 1,000 to 5,000 workers and may measure three to four feet in diameter.

From late summer into early fall the queen produces queen and male yellowjackets. Each nest can produce thousands of new queens. Queens and males swarm from the nest and mate. The males, workers and old queens die as winter approaches. Newly mated queens seek overwintering sites in protected places such as logs, under bark or leaf litter and occasionally in structures. They remain dormant through the winter and begin the cycle once again in the spring.

Concerns

Yellowjackets are beneficial insects in the sense that they pollinate plants and feed other insects and carrion (dead meat) to their larvae. Many times they will prey on insects that we identify as pests. Unfortunately, their ability to sting makes them a considerable health concern. Yellowjackets alone are responsible for about one-half of all human insects stings. The stings of social wasps, such as yellowjackets, have evolved as a defense mechanism. The only purpose for the sting is to inflict pain. Yellowjackets are easily provoked and, unlike honeybees, can sting more than once. They will attack in force if their nest is disturbed. Unless a person is allergic to yellowjacket venom, stings are rarely life threatening.

Avoidance

Yellowjackets are most frequently encountered when they scavenge for food. Their habit of feeding on nectar and sugar can create a nuisance. Yellowjackets locate places where sweet food products have been served throughout the summer such as picnic facilities, ice cream stands or soda fountains. In the fall, these locations usually have extremely high yellowjacket populations. By avoiding these areas or eating in screened areas, contact with yellowjackets can be reduced.

Yellowjackets are attracted to open cups and cans of soda and other sweet liquids. They are also attracted to open cans of garbage, bright flowery clothing and floral scented perfumes. All outside garbage cans must be kept clean and well covered, to reduce yellowjacket problems. Contact with the wasps can be decreased by reducing these attractions at picnics and other outings. In situations closer to home, the elimination of overripe fruit from gardens and orchards will dramatically decrease the number of scavenging yellowjackets. Holding gatherings indoors and using screens on windows will also help avoid yellowjacket problems.

There are a variety of traps on the market that claim to attract yellowjackets. These traps are baited with the scent of rotting fruit or other odors equally as appetizing to the yellowjackets. It is questionable whether these traps can out compete the natural and man-made attractants described above. However, it is certain that through proper sanitation and removal of natural and man-made attractants, yellowjacket contact can be educed. However, in situations where the potential for repeated human contact exists, other management methods may be necessary.

Management

Management of each species of yellowjacket differs because of their nesting habits. Both species do not reuse their nests, therefore what was a problem this year may not occur next year. Caulking cracks and crevices in structures in winter and early spring, after the nests have died, will prevent German yellowjackets from constructing nests inside buildings. Openings to active nests should not be caulked.

Chemical control for ground-nesting yellowjackets consists of drenching the exit hole with an approved insecticide and plugging the hole with treated soil or cotton balls. Yellowjackets that are not killed by the initial treatment will be killed by chewing on the treated cotton ball or tunneling through the soil. Yellowjacket entrance holes in buildings can be treated with approved insecticide dusts. As the yellowjackets walk through the dust they pick it up on their legs and transport it into the nest. When yellowjackets groom themselves they ingest the dust on their legs. It may take up to a week for the colony to die and repeated chemical applications may be necessary. When the entrance hole of an active nest is in a building, the hole should not be plugged with the insecticide or caulked. The yellowjackets may decide to chew through the soft inside wall rather than chew through the insecticide or caulking material.

Implement chemical control measures at dusk or dawn when the wasps are in their nest. Wear protective clothing when attempting to eliminate the nests, such as long sleeved jackets, gloves and pants. Tape the wrists and ankles to the clothing, to prevent the wasps from getting underneath the clothes. A bee veil or other enclosed form of face and neck protection should also be worn. Yellowjackets will defend their nest, so to avoid being attacked, use a flashlight covered with red cellophane when applying the insecticide at night. Yellowjackets are unable to see red. In sensitive locations, or where control has not been effective, professional pest control operators should be consulted to handle the problem.

Source: University of Illinois and Illinois Natural History Survey.

Annual White Grubs Update

Adult annual white grubs are still flying in Illinois, which means that egg laying is still occurring. As we move into August, keep a lookout for damaged turf in irrigated areas where preventive treatment with imidacloprid (Merit, Grubex) have not been applied.

As damage starts to occur, lawns in which more than 10 or 12 annual white grub larvae are present per square foot may require rescue treatments with Proxol or diazinon to reduce turf damage. Drench treated areas with at least 1/2 an inch of water within 30 minutes of the insecticide application to move the insecticide into the root zone where the larvae are feeding. To avoid turf damage by native wildlife that feed on grubs (raccoons and skunks, for example), treatments may be necessary at grub populations lower than 10 or 12 per square foot.

The Gardening Launch Pad
http://gardeninglaunchpad.com/
Provides over 1,500 gardening links in 57 categories from African violets to a weed guide.

Great Plant Escape
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/gpe
Detective LePlant and his partners Bud and Sprout guide students through the mysteries of plant science in this interactive curriculum for 4th and 5th graders.

September is National Food Safety Month

September marks the third annual National Food Safety Education Month, sponsored by the Industry Council on Food Safety, a nonprofit organization committed to food safety education. National Food Safety Education month is included in President Clinton's $43 million food safety plan announced in May of this year, to enhance food safety from farm to the table.

Last year's observation generated widespread support from Extension Educators, state and local health departments, restaurants, foodservice operations, hospitality associations, the media and colleges and universities from across the nation.

The goals of the National Food Safety Education Month are:

• To reinforce food safety education and training among restaurant and food service workers.

• To educate the public about food safety at home.

Graham Kerr, internationally known chef, author and television personality, is chairperson of the third annual National Food Safety Education Month. Kerr was selected as chairman because of his long-time commitment to education food professionals and consumers.

Chef Kerr will be featured in a nationally distributed video tape to more than 700 of the nation's television stations. In the video, Kerr will offer the public safe food handling advice for the home, based on procedures used by restaurant and food service professionals.

As a demonstration of the industry's commitment to food safety a new pamphlet, The Recipe for Safe Food Preparation, is available from the Industry Council on Food Safety. Request a free brochure by calling 1-800-456-0111.

Through this pamphlet consumers learn the care foodservice professionals take to serve safe food and the importance of adopting similar procedures at home. The pamphlet provides information on food safety for those cooking from scratch, as well as handling foods brought home from a favorite restaurant or carry-out spot.

Food Labels: The Dating Scene

Is the food you buy fresh enough to eat? Check the product date on the label. If manufacturers use "open dating" you will have an idea of just how fresh a product is.

In open dating, dates are stated alphanumerically (such as "Oct. 15") or numerically (such as "10-15 or 1015"). Open dates are printed or stamped on food labels. These dates are designed to give consumers an idea of how long a product will remain wholesome and safe. Remember that handling and storage will affect the freshness of the food product. For example: a partially used carton of cottage cheese left on the counter for hours may spoil before the use by date imprinted on the package label due to poor handling.

There are four types of open dates commonly used on food labels for your protection.

• Pull or "sell by" date. This is the last day that the manufacturer recommends sale of the product. This date is printed for product control purposes at the grocery store level. The date allows sufficient time for home storage and use.

  For example: The date on a milk carton is the last date the store can sell the milk. Generally milk does not carry a "use by" date because the time can vary. The date on the carton does not mean that the milk should not be used after this date. According to the Dairy Council of Wisconsin, milk that is properly stored in the refrigerator should be used within 7 to 10 days of the date stamped on the label.

• Freshness or quality assurance date. This date suggests how long the manufacturer thinks the food will remain at peak quality. The label might read, "best if used by October, 1997." However, the product still may be used later. Bread may carry such a date. A freshness date has a different meaning than the word "fresh" printed on the label. The term "fresh" often suggests that a food is raw or unprocessed.

• Pack date. This is the date when the food was manufactured, packaged or processed. This date is sometimes in code or in a form unfamiliar to consumers. For example: 217-7 may mean the product was packed on the 217th day of 1997. Other letters and numbers may also appear which gives the manufacturer information about the product. These are referred to as a "product code."

• Product codes with code dating carry a large amount of information in just a few small letters, numbers and symbols. The code can tell you when and where a product was packaged. If the product must be recalled, the code helps manufacturers quickly identify, track and remove it from stores. FDA encourages product codes on packaging, especially for foods with a long shelf life. Canned goods usually carry a product code.

• Expiration date. This is the last day the product should be eaten. It might read, "Do not use after October, 1997." State governments regulate these dates for perishable foods, such as eggs or any other product they choose to regulate. The Food and Drug Administration regulates on the expiration dates on infant formula only.

Farmers' MarketIf you haven't visited your local farmer's market, you are missing a treat. During August and September tomatoes and zucchini will be coming in by the truckloads. Also look for great prices on beets, cabbage, green onions, eggplant, hot peppers, snap beans, sweet peppers, and of course, sweet corn.

Apples are beginning to appear. MacIntosh, Courtland, Grimes Golden and Jonathan apples are among the August/September harvests. Blueberries are still coming in as well as grapes and fall-bearing red raspberries.

I have also found beautiful bunches of cut flowers. Sunflowers in a variety of sizes and gladiolus in various colors as well as many other varieties of cut flowers are available at the local farmer's market.

Also the local grocery stores are featuring "locally grown" sections in the produce department. These items are generally fresher and more nutritious due to the short storage time. Check it out!

How to Ripen FruitAccording to USDA's Agriculture Research Service, Americans are not eating enough fruit. Only 24% of us are eating the minimum recommended 2 servings of fruit a day. And that's only when you include apples from apple pie, etc. The average number of servings is 1 and 2/3 serving. How many servings did you eat yesterday?

Most people like fruit...we just can't find ripe ready-to-eat fruit. Nothing is more disgusting than a rock-hard peach with the crunch of an apple. Or a mango that is so bitter it makes your mouth pucker.

The fact is, most fruit is picked while it is still green for shipping purposes. When we buy underripe fruit and refrigerate it, it will never ripen. Refrigeration stops the natural ripening process. According to the United Fresh Fruit and Vegetable Association, many fruits ripen after they are harvested.

Don't Refrigerate Until Fully Ripe

avocados bananas cantaloupe honeydew melons mangos nectarines

papayas peaches pears Persimmons plums

To hasten the ripening of the fruits listed above, use the following procedure:

• place a single layer of underripe fruit, no stacking, in a large paper bag

• using a sharp object (such as a pencil or knife) punch about 15-20 small holes all around the bag

• place one apple in the bag with the underripe fruit. Roll the top of the bag over to seal and store the bag at room temperature overnight.

• next day, check the ripening progress of the fruit. If it is ripened to your satisfaction, store it in the refrigerator until you are ready to eat it. If it is still underripe, reseal the bag and allow another 8 hours of ripening time. Check often to prevent over ripening.

An apple is used because apples give off a natural gas that hastens the ripening of fruits and vegetables. The apple, however, does not know when the fruit is ripe. If you forget about the bag of fruit, it will go from underripe to rotten in a few days. Check frequently.

Sadly enough, some fruits are ripe upon harvesting. They will not get sweeter or better with age or the ripening process described above. They will just deteriorate or rot. Store these fruits in the refrigerator until ready to wash and eat, which should happen in a few days. Selection becomes very important when you purchase these fruits. Look for fragrant, blemish-free fruit with no soft spots.

Refrigerate These Fruits Immediately

apples blueberries cherries cranberries grapes

pomegranates raspberries strawberries tangerines

Purchasing fruits in season will increase your chances of getting fully ripened, sweet, juice and delicious selections. Look for locally grown peaches, plums and apples and eat more fruit. Fruit is high in fiber, vitamins and minerals and is an important part of a well-balanced diet.

Research Notes: Breast Cancer

Fatty acids in fish oil may help lower the risk of breast cancer in women. In a new study lead by the University of California at Los Angeles, 25 women were put on a diet that mimicked foods eaten by Asian women. The diet included up to 4,000 milligrams of fish oil daily, soy products and lots of vegetables. This diet significantly altered the women's breast fat content.

Compared to American women, who consume more vegetables and animal fat, Asian women, who eat more fish have a lower incident of breast cancer. Studies on mice as well as other cultures have shown that omega-three fatty acids in fish reduces tumor growth, while omega-six fatty acids in vegetables and animals causes tumors to increase in growth.

Source: Journal of the National Cancer Institute; 1997; 89; pp. 1123-1131

Zucchinis in the Night

Anyone who woke up last week to find "the dreaded green gourd of summer" on your doorstep, you were not alone. Gardeners always grow more zucchini than they can use. They wind up giving away pounds and pounds to anyone who passes by. But by late summer, once grateful friends refuse free baskets full of the squash and lock their doors when they see a zucchini-toting gardener heading up the driveway.

To cope with this rejection, a Mt. Gretna, Pennsylvania resident came up with a stealth drop-the-zucchini-and-run tactic which was reported in the Wall Street Journal. Thus a new holiday was born....August 8th is "Sneak Some Zucchini Onto Your Neighbors' Porch Night." We may need to set aside such a date in Illinois. What do you say about that, Master Gardeners?

How to Choose and Store Mangos

Mangos may be varied in size, some are oval and rather flat and others are round, depending upon the variety and area in which they are grown. However, regardless of variety, buy mangoes that are still rather firm and allow the to remain at room temperature until the fruit "gives" easily. Then, store in the refrigerator unless you plan to use them immediately. The outer skin may attain a somewhat speckled look by the time they are ripened sufficiently to eat, but this doesn't mean spoilage, only ripeness.

• Both frozen orange juice concentrate and chilled orange juice made from concentrate contain 97 to 100% of the Vitamin C that was originally in the oranges used to make them. Of course, the longer opened orange juice is kept in the refrigerator, the more Vitamin C it loses. The nutrient degrades over time.

• Papaya is very high in beta-carotene and Vitamin C, with almost 10 percent of the RDA for calcium. It is also high in potassium.

Source: Eating Well