You've probably seen newspaper advertisements and attention- getting banners displayed at local nurseries and garden centers proclaiming, "Fall is for planting." But is it really wise to plant trees and shrubs at the end of a growing season and so close to winter? The answer to this question is a qualified yes. Fall planting can be successful as long as the planting season is not extended too late into the fall, if difficult-to-establish species are avoided and if proper care (watering, mulching, staking if needed) is administered after planting.

For good reason, most people think of spring as the preferred planting season. Landscape plants installed in March, April and May benefit from generous rains and the long growing season that stretches ahead. But more often than not, we receive too much precipitation that makes planting difficult, especially on poorly drained sites. Furthermore, the sudden onset of hot, dry weather that typically displaces an often too-short spring, can injure tender new plantings. Because of these difficulties, increasing attention has been given to fall planting. During the period from mid-August to mid-October, moderate and relatively stable air temperatures prevail and soil temperatures and moisture levels are usually in a range that promotes rapid root development. But if the fall planting season is extended into November and December, or if slow-to-establish species are chosen, root growth may be poor and planting failures can occur.

Most container grown and balled and burlapped deciduous trees and shrubs sold at garden centers are excellent candidates for fall planting. Because nursery plants come with well developed root systems and because the roots of many landscape plants are capable of growing even when soil temperatures cool to 45 degrees F, the prospects for successful plant establishment are quite high throughout the fall season. Conifers, such as pine and spruce, benefit from a slightly earlier start, preferring the warmer soil temperatures (60 degrees to 70 degrees F) common in late summer to early fall (mid-August through September).

If plants from a nursery can be planted in the fall, what about moving or transplanting established trees and shrubs from one locale to another? As you might expect, severing the roots of a plant (up to 95 percent in some cases), hauling it out of the ground and moving it to a completely new site is a stressful operation, regardless of the season. Still, transplanting can be successfully carried out if it is restricted to those plants with a proven track record of surviving such a move in the fall.

Why is it that some plants can be planted at almost any time of the year while others are saddled with much narrower windows of opportunity? Reasons for these differences are a subject for debate, but the commonly held belief is that plants with shallow, fibrous roots can usually be planted with greater ease than those with fewer, larger roots. Prime examples of difficult-to-plant trees are magnolia and tulip tree; both have thick, fleshy roots. Other slow-to-establish species that are better planted in spring include fir, birch, American hornbeam, American yellowwood, ginkgo, larch, sweetgum, hophornbeam, oak, willow, bald cypress and hemlock.

Notable tree species that can be successfully planted in fall include maple, buckeye or horsechestnut, alder, catalpa, hackberry, hawthorn, ash, honey locust, Kentucky coffeetree, crabapple, Amur corktree, spruce, pine, sycamore, linden and elm. Most deciduous shrubs are easily planted in fall; however, broad-leaved evergreens like rhododen

dron and narrow-leaved evergreens like yew prefer to get started in spring. Fall planting (mid-August to mid-October) takes advantage of favorable soil temperatures and moisture conditions that promote the root growth needed to sustain plants through their critical first year in the landscape. Unfortunately, our Midwestern climate is unpredictable and even the toughest plants may die if fall or early winter weather is severe or erratic. But if healthy and vigorous plants are chosen, if proper post-plant care is given, and if slow-to-establish species are avoided, fall planting of trees and shrubs can be as successful as spring planting.

Source: Jeff Iles, Extension horticulturist, Iowa State University Extension

Crisp fall air is conducive to many forms of outdoor activity, especially gardening. Fall, in fact, is the only time spring flowering bulbs such as tulips and daffodils can be planted.

The procedure is so simple and quick that you'll have time to spare for football games, fall foliage tours and end of season backyard barbecues.

If you've never planted bulbs before, or for a reminder, here are some tips for you.

The best time to get bulbs into the ground is when soil temperatures fall below 60 degrees F. That generally occurs in October.

Bulbs can be planted in beds, in rock gardens, in groundcovers or under trees and shrubs. Most species prefer partial shade, so avoid planting them in areas which receive direct mid-day sun. Also keep them away from heated basement walls.

If you're planting tulips, daffodils or other large bulbs, the bed must be 8 inches from ground level to bulb base and wide enough to accommodate at least 12 or more bulbs spaced 6 inches apart. Smaller bulbs such as crocuses and muscari require a bed that's 5 inches deep, with bulbs spaced 3 inches apart.

Good drainage is essential for all spring flowering bulbs. If your soil is mostly clay, mix in an organic material such as peat moss or compost in amounts up to 50 percent in volume. If your soil is mostly sand, add peat moss or compost in the same amount to increase water and nutrient holding capacity.

Fertilization improves bulb performance and encourages bulbs to flower for several years without replacement. Two fertilizing methods are recommended for spring flowering bulbs. One method utilizes a sulfur-coated, slow-release complete fertilizer. It's applied to the rooting area at the rate of one rounded tablespoon per square foot at fall planting time.

The second method uses an application of 8-8-8 (one level tablespoon) or 10-10-10 (one rounded teaspoon) fertilizer per square foot in the fall.

Place the bulbs in the bed, tips pointing upward and spaced as suggested above. Cover them with half the conditioned soil and water the area thoroughly. Add the remaining conditioned soil and soak the area again.

Cover the planted area with a 3 inch layer of mulch. Woodchips, peat moss or bark are good choices because they don't mat and prevent water and nutrients from soaking into the soil. Keep the soil moist, particularly during dry spells.

Source: Dave Robson, University of Illinois

In another week or so we will see the peak of our annual display of fall color. Then, suddenly the leaves will fall, creating problems for homeowners and municipalities who must decide what to do with them.

Historically, fall has been leaf burning time. Burning leaves is a waste - both environmentally and economically - and regulations prohibit burning leaves in many Illinois communities.

To solve the disposal problem, many communities have resorted to vacuuming them up or having residents bag the leaves for collection.

Leaves, grass clippings and other landscape debris made up as much as 40 percent of the material going into some landfills prior to 1990.

Communities and homeowners are scrambling to figure out ways to solve this massive disposal problem. While many communities have set up composting programs, the best way to get rid of leaves is on the site where they fall.

It simply doesn't make sense to waste good, free organic material. There are several better ways to use leaves. If allowed to collect beneath the trees, leaves slowly decompose, releasing their nutrients to nourish the trees. This provides the litter that creates new, rich soil for tender roots.

Where homeowners have lawns beneath the trees, accumulated leaves will smother the grass. Grinding the leaves with a power mower lets the tiny pieces fall between the blades of grass where the natural benefits can be obtained without harm to the grass. Shredded leaves can be dug into the vegetable or flower gardens in fall and will greatly improve the soil for next year. Or they can be used to mulch overwintering perennials and roses.

If you have room, a backyard compost pile provides an economical way to dispose of autumn leaves. It can also provide you with a source of organic nutrition for your garden. Some avid gardeners may want your leaves to add to their composting systems.

While there is still some time, think about the best way to incorporate the leaves into your landscape. It is the most ecologically sensible thing to do.

For a pamphlet on composting, simply send a SASE (business size/32 cents postage) to Composting, U of I Extension, Chicago HS for Ag Sciences, 3807 W 111th St, Chicago, IL 60355.

Source: Dave Robson, University of Illinois

All-America Selections (AAS) tests and introduces significantly improved new flowers and vegetables grown from seed. The AAS logo on vegetable and flower seed packets, plant tags or in catalogs is a promise of gardening success. For the past 65 years, AAS has taken the guesswork out of finding flower and vegetable varieties that will be reliable, vigorous, productive and superior in gardens.

All-America Selections has tested these new varieties in trials across North America. These two AAS Winners have proven their superior performance and are new cultivars, distinct from others currently on the market. Look for these two 1998 AAS Winners in seed packets at retail stores, in mail order catalogs or as bedding plants in garden centers.

Impatiens F1 - 'Victorian Rose'

'Victorian Rose' is the first impatiens with consistently semi-double flowers. The unique, distinct qualities of 'Victorian Rose' are the semi-double blooms and the number of blooms. 'Victorian Rose' flowers contain extra petals adding depth to each rose bloom. More importantly, the flowering capability exceeds other plants providing more color. 'Victorian Rose' plants can be covered with blooms. The old fashioned rose is a soft, muted color which combines easily with other annuals. Gardeners can be assured of season-long performance due to the extensive testing conducted by AAS Trials. 'Victorian Rose' will perform best in a shady garden location and adapt to any container. Like all impatiens, 'Victorian Rose' needs little care in the garden, only sufficient water to provide abundant color. 'Victorian Rose' will be available in mail order catalogs and as bedding plants in garden centers.

Petunia F1 - 'Prism Sunshine'

'Prism Sunshine' has numerous improvements, however, the most significant quality is flower color. This single grandiflora flower has a creamy yellow color that neither fades nor blushes pink under stressful garden conditions. The deep green foliage contrasts with the large 3 to 3 1/2 inch pastel yellow flowers. 'Prism Sunshine' plants are vigorous, flowering freely throughout the growing season. Plants may spread from 15 to 20 inches in the garden depending upon available nutrients, sunlight and moisture.

Gardeners can be assured of the plant quality and garden performance due to the AAS Award. 'Prism Sunshine' will thrive in a full sun garden. Also adaptable to container gardening, 'Prism Sunshine' combines well with other annuals particularly those with blue flowers. 'Prism Sunshine' will be available in 1998 mail order catalogs or garden centers.

September

• Overseeding & establishment (optimum time) - first week
• Fertilization (key time) - first two weeks
• Cultivation (aerifying, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing
• Postemergence broadleaf weed control to actively growing weeds (optimum time)

October

• Postemergence broadleaf weed control (early in month) if weeds actively growing
• Cultivation (aerifying, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing

November

• Mowing until dormant
• Late season fertilization within 1 week of final mowing of year

BULB.com!
From the U. S. Netherlands Flower Bulb Information Center. Lots of basic planting and caring information for spring and summer flowering bulbs.

Holding Tomatoes after Frost
Frost and freezing temperatures will eventually end the tomato harvest season. But tomato fruits harvested prior to a heavy frost can be stored and used for several weeks. The largest fruits should be selected first. They should be solid, firm, green and free of defects. Pick and handle carefully to avoid injury. Wrap each fruit in an individual piece of newspaper and pack loosely in a carton or box. Store the box of tomatoes at 55 - 60 degrees F. When needed for table use, ripen for 3 to 4 days at 70 - 80 degrees F. Sort through the stored tomatoes occasionally to remove any that are deteriorating or those that show signs of ripening. This program will extend the tomato season somewhat with fruits that are as good as vine ripened, but are better than imports.

Removing Foliage
Foliage should not be removed from perennial plants until it turns yellow or brown. Green foliage is still manufacturing food for next year's growth. Avoid removing foliage to the ground. Leaving an inch stub on peonies, chrysanthemums and other perennials aids in locating the plants as they are sprouting next spring. An inch stub won't increase insect or disease problems.

Why Trees Shed Leaves in Midsummer

1. During droughts, trees sometimes shed up to 10 percent of their leaves. This benefits a tree under special drought conditions because it then loses less water into the air. Loss of this much food-making capacity does little or no harm.

2. Vigorous trees might make too many leaves. This excess can suddenly drop in mid-June as a natural adjustment to summer heat and lower soil moisture. Such "physiological leaf-drop" does these trees no harm.

3. Trees' inner leaves and twigs, which are "shaded out" by the upper, outer leaves, normally die for lack of sunlight. They drop off, leaving large branches bare near the trunk. This is normal, not harmful.

4. Clusters of fallen leaves, attached to short twigs, result from a twig-girdling insect or squirrel activity. If the former, a shallow depression encircles the broken twig end just inside the bark. If the latter, the break is diagonal and might have two or three small "steps." These are rarely any threat.

Mulch
Mulch isn't used to keep the cold from damaging perennial and well-established plants but to maintain a uniform soil temperature. Freezing and thawing can heave plants from the soil, exposing roots to the drying winter winds and sun. On the other hand, mulch applied before the ground freezes can add a few extra weeks to the root development of newly planted trees and shrubs. Eventually, however, the ground will freeze beneath the mulch.

Organic Matter
Some gardeners use leaves on top of the soil as a source of organic matter. But for best results, gardeners should work the leaves into the earth. Avoid walnut leaves, which are toxic, and oak leaves which do not break down easily. A little preparation now can lead to better harvests.

Fall Garden Chores
Check the foliage carefully for signs of insect or disease problems as you remove it. Never leave peony foliage near the dormant plant as chance of botrytis disease problems next spring increase drastically.

All perennials, trees and shrubs need a thorough watering before the ground freezes. While plants appear dormant, roots are still actively growing and functioning.

Evergreens probably demand a more thorough watering than any other plant. Pines, yews, junipers, arborvitae, spruces, boxwoods, hollies and rhododendrons lose water through their leaves during winter. It's important roots have a supply of water to replace what's lost.

The last watering should take place before the ground completely freezes. This date usually occurs between Thanksgiving and Christmas.

To prevent freezing and thawing injury, perennials should be mulched with six to eight inches of an organic material. Compost, partially decomposed leaves, woodchips and bark can be used. Allow the ground to partially freeze before covering plants.

Vibro Hand Seeder
This new battery-powered vibratory seeder makes it easy to put the desired number of (even very small) seeds right where they should go. A long metal spatula holds the seeds and a speed control adjusts the vibration frequency. You can even buy a magnifying glass that attaches to the spatula tip for use with extremely small seeds. For more details, contact GroMor Enterprises, P. O. Box 44, Adams, MA 01220-0044, phone 413-743-2064.

Animal Watering Products
A free catalog is available from Happy Bird, Box 86, Weston, MA 02193.

New University of Illinois Publication - Needled Evergreens for the Midwest
Learn how to grow needled evergreens successfully in the Midwest. Includes a wealth of information on selecting, planting and caring for evergreen trees and shrubs. Easy to read, comprehensive and beautifully designed. Learn how to: choose the right plants for specific uses, create the proper soil conditions for successful growth, select and prepare a planting site, plant, water, fertilize, mulch and prune your needled evergreens correctly and control insects, diseases and weeds. To obtain a copy send a check payable to University of Illinois in the amount of $19.00 ($16.00 for publication + $3.00 P & H) and mail to New Publication, U of I Extension, Chicago HS for Ag Sciences, 3807 W 111th St, Chicago, IL 60355.

September - Outdoor

Clean up vegetable garden and add dead plants to the compost pile.

Sow a green manure crop in vacant crop areas.

Plant lettuce and radishes for fall harvest.

Dig mature onions on a clear, dry day and store in a shady, dry place.

Pot up parsley and chives from the garden and place in a sunny window for the winter.

Pinch off tomato blossoms, so plant will put energy into ripening tomatoes.

Plant garlic cloves and cover with an organic mulch.

Powdery mildew (a white covering on many vining vegetable crops) occurs at this time as temperatures cool. Though unsightly; control is not necessary.

Take a trip to a nearby apple orchard. Call us for a copy of the Pick Your Own Farms in the area.

Test your soil. For a free soil testing booklet call 773-737-1178.

Harvest potatoes after tops have died.

Harvest garlic when tops die; dry bulbs for four to six weeks in warm, dry, shady area.

Plant trees and shrubs; roots will grow until the ground freezes.

Plant trees and shrubs at least six feet from sidewalks, so roots do not crack the concrete.

Divide irises and peonies.

Separate lily-of-the-valley crowns every three years.

Plant lilies.

Dig up new garden beds for the next growing season; add organic matter.

Plant chrysanthemums for fall color.

Plant pansies, they thrive in cool, fall weather.

Save flower seeds from non-hybrids by allowing seeds to mature; spread seeds on newspaper, turn to dry and store in glass jars at 48-50 degrees F.

Fertilize trees and shrubs after leaves begin to drop.

Prune infected or dead areas of rose bushes to reduce black spot.

Plant hardy spring flowering bulbs. For a 32 page tabloid on Growing and Using Annuals and Bulbs send a $2.00 check payable to University of Illinois to Growing & Using Annuals & Bulbs, CES, 5106 S. Western Avenue, Chicago, IL., 60609.

If you're not sure which end of the bulb is the top, plant bulbs on their side; the stem will grow upright.

Dig up caladium bulbs; let them dry and store in a warm, dry place.

Compact varieties of geraniums such as Orbit and Hollywood make good plants for a winter window garden.

Plant radishes, onion sets for green onions, lettuce and spinach for fall harvest.

Listen to weather forecasts for freeze warnings. In Northern Illinois, there is a 50 percent chance of a freeze that will kill tender vegetables. Protect tender plants from light freezes by covering them with sheets, newspapers, plastic or cardboard boxes.

Save plants such as coleus, wax begonias, impatiens or fuchsia for indoor growing over winter. Dig plants and cut them back about halfway or take cuttings of shoot tips and root them in moist vermiculite, soil mix or perlite.

Dig and store tender garden flowers for winter storage. Gladiolus corms should be dug when leaves begin turning yellow. Caladiums, geraniums and tuberous begonias should be lifted before killing frost. Dig canna and dahlia roots after a heavy frost. Allow to air dry, then pack in dry peat moss or vermiculite and store in a cool location.

September - Indoors

Wash windows where houseplants will be placed for the winter.

Let amaryllis bulbs go dormant; they need a month of rest before being forced back into growth.

Gradually reintroduce houseplants placed outdoors for the summer back into the indoor environment before temperatures drop below 55 degrees F.

Check houseplants being reintroduced to the indoor environment for insects; isolate reintroduced houseplants from houseplant collection for two to three weeks.

October - Outdoors

Pumpkins and winter squash should be harvested when mature, but before a damaging frost.

Tomatoes need an average daily temperature of 65 degrees F to ripen; when temperatures drop below 65 degrees F, bring tomatoes inside to complete the ripening process.

Dig root crops before the ground freezes.

Before a predicted frost, pick the last of your cucumbers, peppers and summer squash.

Pull up hot pepper plants and hang them up to dry. They store well.

Placing a ripe apple in a closed container with green tomatoes will help the tomatoes ripen.

Take the time to jot down notes about any problem variety or vegetable from the growing season.

Clean up leaves, fallen fruit and branches around fruit trees. This practice will reduce future insect and disease problems.

Enjoy the changing fall colors.

Rake leaves to prevent them from smothering the grass.

Plant or transplant ferns.

Transplant deciduous trees and shrubs when they go dormant; after leaves drop.

Prune diseased and dead branches from trees and shrubs.

Dig up dahlia, canna and gladioli bulbs; dry; clean off soil and store in vermiculite.

Before the ground freezes, water evergreens.

Clean the area around your peonies and roses; plant debris can harbor disease and provide a home for overwintering insects.

Drain your water hose completely; some hoses will crack if they freeze with water in them.

Dig up all flower beds and add organic matter.

Continue to mow lawn as long as grass is growing. Last mowing of season should be at a height of about 2 inches.

Shred leaves for the compost pile by running a lawn mower over them.

Continue to plant hardy spring flowering bulbs. Bulbs can be planted until the ground freezes.

Have soil ready for mounding roses for winter protection. Do not mound or cover the roses until after leaves drop and soil is near freezing, usually in late November or early December.

Put up a bird feeder so birds will find it before cold weather begins.

Harvest pumpkins and winter squash when rind is hard and fully colored but before frost.

October - Indoor

Produce nice looking green indoor plants by planting fresh grapefruit or orange seeds in potting soil.

Reduce watering and fertilizing of houseplants as days grown shorter.

To Your Health: Red Wine?

For the past ten years popular press magazines and newspapers have bombarded the public with articles touting the benefits of drinking wine. Red wine especially. Even the 1995 Dietary Guidelines for Americans state, "current evidence suggests that moderate drinking is associated with a lower risk of coronary heart disease in some individuals." Could the classic toast "to your health" actually carry a positive health message?

Sift through the latest research and you will find a growing body of evidence to support that moderate drinking with meals seems to bestow some protection against heart disease. The key is moderation. Moderate drinking is defined as no more than one drink per day for women and no more than two drinks per day for men. According to the Dietary Guidelines, a drink is a 12 ounce regular beer, or five ounces of wine, or 1.5 ounces of 80 proof distilled spirits.

Many researchers now believe that the ethanol in alcoholic beverages works by raising good HDL cholesterol levels which in turn pulls bad cholesterol out of the bloodstream. EthanolŐs blood-thinning effect may also prevent clotting which further reduces the risk of stroke and heart attack. While alcohol may have many positive benefits, it has never acted alone. It is always linked with moderate exercise, weight control and well balanced meals.

Higher levels of alcohol intake increases the risk of high blood pressure, stroke, heart disease, certain cancers, accidents, violent behaviors, suicides, birth defects and overall mortality. Alcoholism is also linked to cirrhosis of the liver, inflammation of the pancreas and brain damage. Heavy drinkers are also at risk of malnutrition.

Adding a glass of red wine, a beer or a shot of whiskey to a daily meal of French fries and a double cheeseburger will not produce positive results. Alcohol is not a quick fix. It is not a medication. Also having 10 drinks on Saturday night versus having 10 glasses of wine over a period of a week with well balanced meals will produce different results.

The research also indicates that people who drink in moderation often have other positive lifestyle characteristics. They are more likely to be nonsmokers, educated, not extremely overweight and health conscious. But no matter how carefully the research is translated, some Americans will get the wrong idea. Chug-a-lugging a quart of beer is of no benefit to anyone.

Some investigators believe that increasing the number of drinkers in a society will simply increase the number of alcoholics. If everyone could enjoy light to moderate drinking with healthy meals, quit smoking and exercise on a regular basis the health benefits would be great (how much could we really attribute to wine?) For those who led this type of lifestyle, drinking red wine or any alcoholic beverage is probably a health benefit. But drinking alone (under the guise of health reasons) without developing a healthy lifestyle is still an unhealthy reason to drink.

The Squashes a Diverse Family

We usually divide them as summer squash, winter squash, pumpkins and edible gourds, but botanically speaking they are all members of the Crucurbitaceae family. This family also includes cucumbers, melons and decorative gourds. The majority of our summer squash and pumpkins are native to Central America and Mexico. Most of the winter squash originated in Argentine Andes. Squash of all types was brought north by the American Indians.

Extensive cross breeding has created numerous mixes of characteristics that once defined a squash versus a pumpkin. Squash are inexpensive, versatile, high in fiber and nutritional value. They are showing up more and more on restaurant menus. If you do not cook squash, at least try some of the new concoctions at your favorite eatery.

The traditional terms, "summer" and "winter" squash refer to type and use, rather than seasonal availability; some variety of either type is in the market year round.

"Summer" varieties are tender, immature, very moist squashes with edible seeds and rind. Small ones are best, although you can use more mature ones if you peel them and scoop out the seeds before cooking.

"Winter" squashes are picked when they are mature and have developed hard rinds. The tough seeds and fibrous center are inedible and must be scooped out.

How to Select Summer Squash
Look for pattypan or scallop 3 to 4 inches in diameter; zucchini and cocozelle under 8 inches and yellow straightneck or crookneck from 4 to 6 inches long.

Avoid large pattypan/scallop, cocozelle, yellow straighthead or those with dull appearance and hard, tough rind. Choose small to medium squashes which are firm, heavy for their size, have very tender rinds and soft seeds.

How to Select Winter Squash
Buy whole squashes which feel hard and have no soft spots or cracks. A squash which is heavy for its size will have a thick wall of edible flesh. Tender shells indicate immaturity and poor eating and keeping qualities.

Unusual winter squashes are spaghetti, named for the long thin strands of flesh and mature chayote, which has one large seed and a thin rind which should be peeled. Treat immature chayote as summer squash.

How to Store Squash
Refrigerate summer squash in plastic bags and use within a few days. Whole winter squash will keep 3 to 6 months in a cool, dry, well-ventilated cabinet away from heat. Hanging them in net bags is ideal. Cover cut pieces with plastic wrap and refrigerate in the crisper. Use as soon as possible; chilling converts their starch to sugar, producing undesirable flavors.

How to Microwave Squash
Wash squash and halve lengthwise. If squash is hard to cut, microwave 1 to 2 minutes at High, then cut and scoop out seeds and fibers.

Cover each squash half with plastic wrap. Arrange in oven with space between. Microwave at High until tender, rotating and rearranging after half the time. Test for doneness with a fork.

How to Microwave Whole Squash
Wash whole squash, such as spaghetti squash. Pierce rind deeply several times with sharp knife for steam outlets. Place on paper towel in oven.

Microwave at High until squash yields to pressure and feels soft. Halve crosswise. Scoop out seeds and fibers. Twist out long strands of flesh with fork.

Nutritional Value
Winter squash is one of the few vegetables that does not lose quality after picking. During storage, in fact, the beta carotene (Vitamin A) content increases.

A 1/2 cup serving of Hubbard or butternut squash contains up to 80 percent of the RDA for Vitamin A. They are also high in Vitamin C. Baked squash contains more Vitamin C.

According to the American Cancer Society, deep-yellow foods such as acorn, butternut, Hubbard and other yellow squashes that are rich in Vitamin A may lower the risk of some cancers (cancer of the larynx, esophagus and lungs).

Influenza

Influenza, sometimes called the "flu" is a highly contagious viral infection of the nose, throat and lungs. Influenza ranks as one of the most severe illnesses of the winter season. It is spread easily from person to person primarily when an infected person coughs or sneezes. Influenza may lead to hospitalization or even death, especially among the elderly. An estimated 10 to 20 percent of the population contract the "flu" annually and over 20,000 die from flu-related illness.

What are the symptoms of influenza?
Typical influenza illness is characterized by abrupt onset of high fever, chills, a dry cough, headache, runny nose, sore throat and muscle and joint pain. Unlike other common respiratory infections, influenza can cause extreme fatigue lasting several days to weeks.

More severe cases can result in influenza pneumonia or bacterial pneumonia. Elderly patients and persons with underlying health problems are at increased risk for complications of influenza. If members of high risk groups become ill, they are more likely to require hospitalization than younger adults who are not at risk. Although previously healthy children and younger adults may require hospitalization for flu-related complications the rate of hospitalization is much less.

How is influenza prevented? There is a vaccine to protect against influenza. Because the influenza virus changes from year to year, it is important to get vaccinated against influenza on a yearly basis. The vaccine can only protect against virus strains included in the vaccination. When a good match exists between vaccine and circulating viruses, influenza vaccine has been shown to prevent illness in approximately 70 to 80 percent of healthy persons aged 65 years and less.

Who should get influenza vaccine?

• People 65 years of age and older
• People with chronic disorders of the lungs or heart
• People who are less able to fight infection because of a disease they were born with or infected with Human Immunodeficiency Virus (HIV); treatment with drugs such as long term steroids; and/or treatment for cancer with x-rays or drugs
• People who have required regular medical follow-up or hospitalization during the preceding year because of chronic diseases (including diabetes mellitus), kidney diseases and blood cell diseases such as sickle cell anemia
• Women who will be in the second or third trimester of pregnancy during the flu season
• Residents of nursing homes and other long-term care facilities housing anyone of any age with chronic medical conditions
• Health care workers and others in contact with people in high risk groups
• Teenagers who are receiving long-term aspirin therapy and might be at risk for developing Reye syndrome after influenza
• Anyone who wishes to reduce their chance of catching influenza, particularly those who provide essential community service.

Is the vaccine safe? Contrary to popular belief, you cannot get influenza from the vaccine. The vaccine is very safe and effective and generally has few side effects. There may be some soreness, redness or swelling where the shot is given. Other possible mild side effects include a headache and low grade fever for a day after the vaccination. This is not the "flu." Influenza vaccinations are generally available at clinics, hospitals and other health care facilities from October to mid-November. The vaccine is also paid for by Medicare Part B. Remember, risks from the disease is much greater than risk from the vaccine.

Fore more information contact the
National Coalition for Adult Immunization
4733 Bethesda Avenue, Suite 750
Bethesda, Maryland 20814-5228
http://www.medscape.com/NCAI

or call the
Center for Disease Control
1-800-232-7468
http://www.cdc.gov/

E. coli, Salmonella, Listeria and Vibrio Vulnificus have all been in the news lately. Of course, these are the names of a collection of bacteria that have recently caused food poisoning outbreaks across the nation. How can we stop this national problem?

In January of this year President Clinton announced he would request $43.2 million in his 1998 budget to fund new nationwide research, education and inspection programs. "Food Safety from Farm to Table" is the President's new food safety initiative. The goal of this initiative is to further reduce the incident of foodborne illness to the greatest extent feasible.

Concern over the recent recall of 25 million pounds of Hudson's ground beef prompted Congress to appropriate $420,000 for a National Academy of Sciences study on the federal food safety system. An additional $24 million was allocated to the Food and Drug Administration for itŐs food safety initiative and the USDA's Food Safety and Inspection Service received $589 million.

This is good. The need for further action is clear. In fact an independent food safety agency should be established to address this initiative. There is limited understanding about how many bacteria can contaminate the food supply. How much bacteria needs to be present to be a risk of illness? Can we detect their presence in food? Are these new bacteria, or old nemesis with new habits? Many questions have gone unanswered.

In the United States, we often brag about having "the safest food supply in the world." Well, our food supply comes from all over the world. It can only be as safe as the food we import. The imported foods must be met with the same scrutiny as homegrown food. But how much protection can watchdog federal programs provide, when thirty percent of all food poisoning cases happen in the home?

For instance, new testing in meat processing plants can detect E. coli and related bacteria in just an 8 hour incubation period. This is a tremendous improvement over old tests which took 2 to 3 days. But, according to researchers at Tufts University, the new test is not fail-safe. A beef processing plant might find some part of a batch of meat bacteria-free, while just a couple of inches away harmful bacteria could be thriving. According to David Acheson, MD at Tufts, "You could hop all over the same sample" and find different results with each piece of meat you test. Testing cannot solve the whole problem.

With all of this technology, the danger is in consumers getting a false sense of security. Recalling 25 million pounds of ground beef does not mean that all the rest of the nationŐs ground beef is free of E.coli. Cooking ground beef to 160 degrees is still your best protection against E. coli. No test is going to eradicate all foodborne problems in ground beef. All ground beef contaminated with E. coli cannot and has not been recalled. You are a vital part of the Food Safety Initiative.

Cook ground beef until juices run clear. Pay attention all of the time. Use a spatula to press the patty and look at the juices if you are not using a thermometer. Juices should not have a trace of pink in order to be safe. Keep your hands clean, wash cutting boards and utensils and do not use the same plate for cooked burgers that you used for the raw ones. This is called cross-contamination. It is still your responsibility to protect yourself and your family.

For more information, contact the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Meat and Poultry Hotline: 1-800-535-4555, 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Eastern time, Monday through Friday.

Osteoporosis in Men
Although osteoporosis mainly affects women, 2 million men have the disease, including one-third of men over age 75.

After age 65 to 70, men and women lose bone at about the same rate. While hip fractures in this age group are more common in women, theyŐre often more serious in men. Men have a 26 percent higher death rate within a year after a hip fracture than women do.

Warning signs in men include a change in posture or sudden back pain. But the most common way osteoporosis is diagnosed in men is by loss of height or a fracture.

Smoking and drinking excessively are significant risk factors for osteoporosis in men. In addition to those, men have most of the same risk factors as women - use of medications that accelerate bone loss, lack of exercise, inadequate calcium intake and diseases or surgery of the stomach, intestine, kidney or lung. Low testosterone, although rare, may also increase risk.

Preventive strategies include getting adequate calcium, Vitamin D and exercise and consuming no more than two alcoholic drinks a day.

Beyond these, treatment focuses on identifying and treating a cause. For example, if steroid medications are a potential cause, changing medication may prevent continued bone thinning. If no cause can be found, the best way to treat osteoporosis in men is unclear.

Reprinted from October, 1997 Mayo Clinic Health Letter; Medical Essay with permission of Mayo Foundation for Medical Education and Research, Rochester, Minnesota 55905. For subscription information call 1-800-333-9038.

Milk in Plastic Jugs
Did you know, milk sold in opaque or cardboard cartons retain more nutritional value. You are better off buying milk in containers you cannot see through. Why? Because when light hits milk it destroys Vitamin A and riboflavin (a B vitamin) over time. And milk is one of the best sources for both of these nutrients.

Vitamin loss is especially high in low-fat milks. The form of Vitamin A added back to skim and low fat milk is especially sensitive to light. Because Vitamin A is fat soluble, skim milk loses natural Vitamin A when the fat is removed. The replacement Vitamin A is more susceptible to light damage than naturally occurring Vitamin A.

How much of milk's vitamin content is lost in the dairy case? Well, it can be a considerable loss. Consider skim milk in a translucent plastic jug (the familiar containers in most stores). By sitting in a lighted dairy case for just one day, it can lose up to 70 percent of its Vitamin A and riboflavin. Compare that to skim milk in a paperboard carton, which loses only 2 percent of its riboflavin and 15 percent of its Vitamin A in the same amount of time.

The light also triggers an off-flavor process during the destruction of nutrients, so it may not taste as good as milk in pigmented yellow or white jugs. Professor of Science, Dr. Sidney Barnard at Pennsylvania State University has been recommending that dairy companies switch to non-see-through containers for many years. Yet only seven companies in the country offer such cartons. What should you do? Switch to cardboard cartons and speak up to your grocer about making the switch as well.

Roasted Pumpkin & Squash Seeds
If you are planning on decorating a pumpkin or adding more squash to your diet, save the seeds. Roasted pumpkin and squash seeds are delicious. If there are any child laborers on hand let them help slosh through the fibers in pursuit of the slippery seeds. Follow these simple instructions for a nutritious and cheap snack.

1 quart water
2 tablespoons salt
2 cups pumpkin seeds
* 3 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine
or olive oil cooking spray

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

2. Bring water to a boil and add salt. Add the seeds and boil for 10-15 minutes.

3. Drain seeds in a colander and allow to cool slightly.

4. Combine seeds with butter or oil or spray generously with cooking spray.

5. Spread on a cookie sheet or skillet in a single layer. Roast for 25-30 minutes or until crisp and golden brown, stir and toss every 10 minutes during roasting.

6. Sprinkle with salt or other seasoning, cool, crack the seeds, remove shells and eat.

* For a spicy variation: In a small sauce pan, heat 3 tablespoons peanut oil and add 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, 2 drops hot pepper sauce and 2 teaspoons curry powder. Stir in seeds, proceed from step #5.