During this holiday season, more than 35 million Americans will buy natural Christmas trees.

If you're among them, these suggestions should be useful in helping keep the tree fresh as long as possible.

Pulling and bending needles, bouncing the butt of the tree on the ground to see if needles fall off, or snapping small branches are not always good ways to tell if the tree is fresh. And, in most cases, these practices can destroy the appearance of the tree for others who may visit the lot after you.

If you buy your tree "off the lot," it's best to buy it early in the season. Trees on many retail lots were cut in October or early November. And the sooner you can get your tree home to a constant course of water, the fresher it will stay. Cutting a tree from a "choose and cut" farm will ensure a fresh tree.

Once you've chosen your tree, you need to protect it during the drive home. Wind rushing through the tree can cause it to lose valuable moisture. For long trips, plan to cover trees tied on top of the car or in an open trunk.

If you won't be putting the tree in its stand right away, store it in a place that is out of the wind and where it will not freeze. Make a fresh cut on the butt by removing one inch of the trunk and place the tree in a bucket of water. Be sure the tree has a constant source of water.

When you're ready to put the tree up in the house, remove another inch of the stump. A flat cut is best; there is no advantage to an angled cut.

Immediately place the tree into a stand that holds at least one-half gallon water. A fresh tree may soak up a quart or more of water per day. Avoid the tiny stands that hold only a cup or two of water. Keep the water level well above the base of the cut at all times. If the cut base dries out, the sap will harden and the tree will not take up any more water.

No water additives such as aspirin, sugar or flame retardant are necessary. All a fresh tree needs is continued watering.

Many families like to put their tree up in front of a large picture window or patio door, but that's about the worst place to put it. Avoid standing the tree in front of large glass surfaces that expose it to the sun and heat. Furnace register vents and fireplaces exposing the tree to heat will lead to rapid moisture loss.Expect a fresh tree to use one-half to two gallons of water the first day it's brought inside. A fresh tree will continue to use water, but at a reduced rate throughout the holiday season. A truly fresh tree is not a fire hazard. It will not burn. If the tree has been allowed to dry out, however, fire is a very real threat.

If you have made a fresh cut on the base and the tree no longer takes up water, it has lost moisture below a critical level and will never regain its freshness. A tree in this condition will burn and should be removed from the house.

Source: David Robson, Extension Educator, Horticulture, University of Illinois

The spectacular amaryllis is a popular flower during the holiday season. This exotic, bulb type flower has been around for hundreds of years. In the past, it was a prized possession of a relatively small group of horticultural fanciers. Now, it has become an exciting find for large sections of the public.

The stately amaryllis has a single flower stalk with 4 inch blooms at the top. The blooms resemble lily flowers and come in an array of colors from red to pink, coral and white. The foliage is bright green and straplike, similar to a bromeliad.

If buying a bulb, select a large fat one at least 2 1/2 inches or more in diameter. Make sure the bulbs are free of any mold or rot. Use a container that has one or more drain holes in the bottom.

Amaryllis bulbs are potted, so that 1/2 to 2/3 of the bulb is exposed above the pot rim. Use a pot that is two to three inches bigger in diameter than the bulb. Leave 1/2 inch rim of pot above the soil line.

After potting, soak the soil thoroughly. When watering, make sure water comes out the bottom of the pot, but do not let the pot stand in this excess water; pour it off.

Flower stalks with several blooms on each should develop in about 8-10 weeks if a top-grade bulb was used. Stake if necessary. Be careful not to injure the bulb when staking.

To reflower, cut off withered blooms immediately. Do not remove leaves which begin to grow after the flower stalks have developed. Keep moist in a humid location with bright light to full sun. Once danger of frost is over, sink the pot with bulb into soil outside in a sunny flower bed and fertilize with a complete water soluble fertilizer every 4-6 weeks.

In late summer, gradually reduce water. When foliage has died down, trim it off. Place pots inside where it is cool (40-50 degrees F.) and dry. Lay pots on their sides. The bulbs need a six to eight week rest period.

When buds begin to push out in late winter to early spring or when you want to re-start the plants, place pots in a warm sunny window (60 degrees F. night, 70 degrees F. day) and water freely. Once in flower, move to cooler, humid location. Keep moist. Repot about every three years or so. Otherwise, do not disturb roots. Pots should be 2-3 inches larger than the bulb at planting, but pot bound bulbs seem to flower nicely year after year with minimal care.

Source: David Robson, Extension Educator, Horticulture, University of Illinois

Numerous landscape and garden plantings benefit from the protection provided by winter mulches. Not only do they provide insulation from damaging bitter cold and wind, but they prevent harmful freezing/thawing of the ground which often results in heaving of the soil. This can break delicate roots of plants or expose crowns to drying winter winds and sunlight.

A good snow cover for the entire winter is a natural insulator, but as we all know, we cannot depend on this.

Materials used as winter mulches should not readily mat down because they may smother plants. A good choice is straw. Try to get it as weed-seed-free as possible to avoid problems later on.

Leaves are another material often used as a winter mulch, but may readily mat down when wet. Avoid using maple leaves which have a tendency to mat and hold moisture. Oak leaves are a better choice because they crinkle as they dry and will not compact as easily.

Evergreen branches work well - this is a good use for trees left for the garbage after Christmas. Branches may be put down right over a snow cover.

Regardless of the type of mulch used, it needs to be anchored well. Large branches, chicken wire or other suitable materials can be put down to serve this purpose.

When should mulches be put down for winter protection? Except for extremely tender non-hardy plants, wait until the ground begins to freeze, which is usually mid to late December. Putting mulches down too early may harm some plants by delaying dormancy, in addition to giving rodents a head start on finding a place to spend the winter.

Most perennials benefit from the protection winter mulches provide. Avoid covering the crowns of evergreen perennials, such as Madonna lily, foxglove and Oriental poppy. Soggy mulch can cause crown rot in delphinium, columbine and Shasta daisy. Don't forget about spring bulbs!

Strawberries need to be mulched or covered to prevent cold injury to roots and crowns. Mulching should be done after the plants go dormant, but before temperatures are consistently below 20 degrees F. Plants are dormant when the leaves turn completely brown. Mulching the soil over root systems of shrubs and smaller shade trees is beneficial, especially newer plantings. This helps prevent deep freezes during periods of little or no snow cover. Keep mulches slightly away from tender trunk areas, however, to avoid possible gnawing problems from mice.

Winter mulches should be removed next spring after plants have developed several leaves. Leaving a mulch on too long can damage the crown, as well as rot the plant.

Source: David Robson, Extension Educator, Horticulture, University of Illinois

As you prepare your lawn mower and other tools for winter storage, don't forget to winterize your sprayers and fertilizer spreader.

Smooth, dependable pesticide application next summer depends largely on the care and maintenance that sprayers and spreaders receive over the winter. Since the pest season is over for this year, this is a good time to winterize your equipment.

Compressed air sprayer tanks should be filled 1/4 full with water that has a small amount of mild dishwashing detergent added to it. Shake the sealed tank to loosen any spray residues. Pressurize the tank and spray out the water. Drain the tank upside down until thoroughly dry.

Once dry, place a few drops of oil into the top of the pump cylinder. Pump the cylinder several times to coat the cylinder and valves with an oil film. Reassemble the sprayer before storing.

Nozzle tips and screens should be removed and cleaned with soapy water. Clogged nozzle tips should be cleaned with a sliver of wood or other soft object, not with wire. An old toothbrush, properly labeled as being for pesticide use and stored with the sprayer, works very well to clean spray residue and other deposits from nozzles.

Fertilizer spreaders are used not only to apply fertilizers, but also granular insecticides and herbicides. Thoroughly clean the spreader of all materials. Apply oil to the bottom of the hopper and all moving parts. Store the spreader with the shutter or gate fully open.

Source: David Robson, Extension Educator, Horticulture, University of Illinois.

Undecided on what to give your friends, neighbors or family members for Christmas? If they are a gardening enthusiast like yourself, why not give them a year's subscription to The Green Line?

You are providing them with updated horticulture and nutrition information. Just send us a check for $8 payable to University of Illinois and we will be happy to send them their first issue with a Christmas card from you. Send your check to: Gift Subscription, U of I Extension, Chicago HS for Ag Sciences, 3807 W 111th St, Chicago, IL 60355.

Gift Suggestions

Undecided about what to buy for that family member, neighbor or friend? If they are an avid gardener, they may like a copy of one or more of the following University of Illinois publications:

• Dwarf Shrubs for the Midwest $10 NCR469 Postage & Handling $3. Contains general cultural information as well as detailed descriptions of 104 dwarf and small plants. A photograph accompanies each description. Includes 33 color photos, a glossary and an index. 1980. 171p.

• Flowering Trees for the Midwest $10 SP68 P & H $3 Intended for the homeowner but may be equally useful to nursery and garden center operators. Discusses the many aspects of growing flowering trees and contains plant descriptions. Also includes 18 pages of color photos, a glossary and an index of botanical and common names of trees. 1985. 102p.

• Large Flowering Shrubs for the Midwest $15 SP74 P & H $3 Intended for the homeowner but may also be useful to nursery and garden center operators. Discusses the many aspects of growing large flowering shrubs and contains plant descriptions. Also includes 32 pages of color photos, a glossary and an index. 1990. 246p.

• Ground Covers for the Midwest $10 NCR400 P & H $3 Contains general cultural information and detailed descriptions of many woody and herbaceous ground covers. Includes 80 color photos, a glossary of botanical terms and an index of common and botanical names 1983. 188p.

• Home Landscaping Package $40 SET100 Includes Ground Covers for the Midwest, Dwarf Shrubs for the Midwest, Flowering Trees for the Midwest and Large Flowering Shrubs for the Midwest. Order this set and save $5.00 off individual prices!

• Needled Evergreens for the Midwest $16 P & H $3 Learn how to grow needled evergreens successfully in the Midwest. Includes a wealth of information on selecting, planting and caring for evergreen trees and shrubs. Easy to read, comprehensive and beautifully designed. Learn how to: choose the right plants for specific uses, create the proper soil conditions for successful growth, select and prepare a planting site, plant, water, fertilize, mulch and prune your needled evergreens correctly and control insects, diseases and weeds.

• Landscaping Your Home $7 C1111 P & H $3 Deals with the principles of landscape design and their practical applications. Provides the homeowner with the information necessary to make the property both beautiful and functional. Although intended primarily for the homeowner, this guide is used as a textbook in many colleges and universities. 1975. 246p.

• Ornamental Grasses for the Midwest $5 NCR461 P & H $1 Complete guide to the use of ornamental grasses in the garden and meadow, from a description of uses to site selection and preparation. Color-illustrated dictionary of ornamental grasses and planting advice. 1992. 18p.

• Vegetable Gardening in the Midwest $12 ($20 hardcover) C1331P & H $3 Offers a complete, accurate and easy-to-use guide to successful growing of more than 40 vegetables and 35 herbs, under Midwest conditions. Information gleaned from years of research on growing conditions and vegetable varieties in the trial gardens at the University of Illinois. 1995. 172p.

To order any of the above, or if you have any questions, call the Extension office at 773-233-0476.

November

• Mow & Water - Stop mowing after growth has ceased. Make final mowing at normal autumn height. Turf should go into winter dormancy well-watered; irrigate in fall to reduce winter desiccation problems, but do not flood.

• Fertilization - Fertilize turf receiving three or four annual applications after growth and mowing has ceased.

• Establishment - Lay sod during first half of month.

• Other - Fall clean-up.

December

Rest!! Don't forget to exercise so you can be in shape for your gardening duties when spring arrives. Enjoy a healthy and safe holiday!!

The WWW Virtual Library - Gardening Links
A comprehensive site with links to international and regional gardening sites, botanic gardens, plant societies, nurseries, catalogs and Cooperative Extension Services.

American Rose Society
A great site for rose growers with a lot of basic information on planting, fertilizing and pruning of roses.

The Dirty Dozen

There are some trees that should not be planted in the home landscape. The University of Kentucky calls them The Dirty Dozen. They are:

• Catalpa
• Box Elder
• Silver Maple
• European White Birch
• Mulberry
• Cottonwood
• Lombardy Poplar
• Tree of Heaven
• Siberian Elm
• Osage Orange
• Willows
• Black Locust

These trees are either short-lived or they grow fast and break, some produce messy fruit while others set up suckers all over the yard or attract insects.

The best advice I can give you on tree selection is consult with your local Extension office. A properly planted and placed tree will increase your property value greatly.

Bigger Annual U.S. Household Spending on Tree Care: $1.5 Billion

Based on a survey conducted by the Gallup Organization during January 1997, in recent years, U.S. households have spent about 1.48 billion dollars each year to care for their trees. In 1996, one-fifth of U.S. households purchased retail tree care services such as fertilization, watering, insect control and pruning. Other results included: tree care purchasing in 1996 was highest among households with owners 50 years of age or older; tree care purchasers were typically college-educated, with professional or business occupations; most of those making tree care purchases were married and were in the Midwest or West; nearly half of all tree care retail sales in 1996 were made to households with annual incomes of $40,000 or more; total tree care sales were highest in the Midwest and South; city households accounted for about 40 percent of tree care sales.

The survey was sponsored by the American Association of Nurserymen, International Society of Arboriculture, Associated Landscape Contractors of America, Professional Lawn Care Association of America and National Arborist Association. Results were compiled by the National Gardening Association.

Garden/Yard Whirligigs!

For a free catalog of hand-painted wooden figures with arms, legs and wings that spin in the wind, call 800-307-5238 or write to Studio T, 4080 Paradise Rd., Las Vegas, NV 89109.

Growing Conifers: Four-Season Plants

The first chapter of this new 111 page book from Brooklyn Botanic Garden opens with this statement: "Conifers are the most underrated plants in the landscape world. For many people, a conifer is merely a Christmas tree or a blue spruce in the front yard. Landscape professionals fall in one of two camps in their regard for conifers: the staunch enthusiasts who tend to establish collections or the downright contemptuous who erroneously believe that designing with conifers is inherently difficult. This book is intended to persuade gardeners otherwise." And so it might, with chapters on classification, selection for garden use, maintenance requirements, "13 top conifer pests and pathogens," as well as an "encyclopedia of conifers" that pictures and describes more than 50 species and their most desirable cultivars. (ISBN 1-889538-02-7) is available at many bookstores and garden centers for $9.95; it can be ordered directly from Brooklyn Botanic Garden by calling 718-622-4433 Ext. 274.

All-American Daylilies for 1998

The All-America Daylily Selection Council testing program includes thousands of Hemerocallis cultivars, each of which is rated for two or more growing seasons on the basis of 50 characteristics, including flower and foliage quality, pest and disease resistance, vigor and hardiness. Top performers annually earn the "All-American" designation. For 1998, the winners are Lullaby Baby and Starstruck. Both are hardy in Zone 4, have negligible pest and disease problems, thrive in a variety of soils and can survive in a high degree of shade (although they do best with six hours of partial sun per day).

Lullaby Baby has 3-1/2 inch, ruffled, pinkish-white flowers with green throats. Flower height is 18-24 inches; foliage height is 12-16 inches. The dark green leaves keep their color even at high temperatures.

Starstruck, which blooms late and often reblooms late in the growing season, has 7 inch, ruffled, gold flowers with pale green throats. Flower height is 24-26 inches; foliage height is 16-20 inches.

1998 Fragrant Orchids Calendar

Each month of this calendar features a fragrant-flowered orchid species or hybrid, with recommendations for cultivation. $11.95 plus shipping (and sales tax if you live in Florida) from the American Orchid Society Book Shop, 6000 S. Olive Ave. West Palm Beach, FL 33405. For information on the shipping cost to your address, call 561-585-2510. Stock number for the calendar is BK 919B.

November-Outdoors

• Place wire guards or other protective devices around trunks of young fruit trees for protection from rabbits.

• Clean plant debris in the vegetable garden and compost. This will help reduce disease, insects and weeds to next year's garden.

• Prevent frost cracking (or sunscald) by wrapping trunks with commercial tree wraps. Young, thin barked fruit trees are especially susceptible.

• Remember to add organic matter and dig or till your vegetable garden. This helps to improve soil structure and usually leads to soils warming and drying faster in the spring, thus allowing spring crops to be planted earlier.

• Remember now is good time to have your soil tested. For a listing of local soil testing labs call the University of Illinois Cooperative Extension Service at 773-737-1178.

• Clean tools, equipment, stakes and tomato cages for winter storage.

• Clean out and reorganize storage area for garden tools and supplies.

• Store all pesticides in a safe, dry place and keep liquids from freezing.

• Clean weeds and debris from around the trunks of all fruit trees.

• Enjoy the fruits of your labor for Thanksgiving dinner.

• Mound soil around the base of rose bushes. Wait until ground freezes to apply mulch.

• Hardy spring flowering bulbs may be planted until the ground is frozen.

• Apply mulch around newly planted trees and shrubs.

• Don't forget to feed the birds.

• Remove dead, diseased or damaged branches from trees and shrubs.

• Rake fallen leaves from lawn, particularly large-sized leaves such as maple and sycamore; they can smother the lawn as they become wet and mat down.

• If you are planning to order a live Christmas tree, prepare its planting hole before the soil freezes.

• Drain garden hoses and bring indoors.

• Thoroughly water trees and shrubs before ground freezes, if soil is dry.

November - Indoors

• Pot amaryllis bulbs for holiday blooms

• As houseplant growth slows; apply less fertilizer and water.

• Pot up tender narcissus for December blooms.

• Protect indoor plants with plastic or paper wrapping before transporting outdoors.

December-Outdoors

• Sharpen tools for next year's use and coat them with oil.

• Check out the Urban Extension website. This site provides excellent links to a wealth of horticultural information.

• Remember the gardeners in your family with Christmas presents of plants, tools and garden books.

• Protect shrubs, such as junipers and arborvitae, from extensive snow loads by tying their stems together with twine. Carefully remove heavy snow loads with a broom to prevent limb breakage.

• Protect perennials and bulbs from heaving by covering with a mulch after ground is frozen.

• Avoid walking on frozen grass. Blades will break and create unwanted paths.

• When shopping for a Christmas tree, check for green, flexible, firmly held needles and a sticky trunk base - both indicators of freshness. Make a fresh cut and keep cut end under water at all times.

• Check winter protections periodically to be sure they stay in place.

December - Indoors

• Check houseplant leaves for brown, dry edges that indicate too little relative humidity in the house. Increase humidity by running a humidifier, grouping plants or using pebble trays.

• Extend the lives of holiday plants, such as poinsettias and Christmas cactus, by placing them in a cool, brightly lit area free from warm or cold drafts.

• Houseplants may not receive adequate light because days are short and gloomy. Move plants closer to windows, but avoid placing foliage against cold glass panes. Artificial lighting may be helpful.

January

• Call the University of Illinois Extension, 773-737-1178; the Chicago Botanic Garden 847-835-5440 and the Morton Arboretum 630-719-2468 for the schedules of gardening classes.

• Read those horticultural magazines and gardening books that you put aside during the holidays.

• Move garden urns into the garage to prevent cracking during cold weather.

• Plan this coming spring for winter color. For free pamphlet on planning for winter color, call 773-233-0476.

• Start a ginger root at home. Buy a fat, unshriveled ginger root. Plant it just under the surface in a six to eight inch pot filled with a light soil. Grow in a sunny west or south window. In about eight months you will be harvesting.

• Check with your local restaurant for surplus five gallon buckets. These can be painted and used as a container for growing vegetables.

• Keep the mesh bags apples and oranges come in. They are great for drying herbs and gourds.

• Think about ordering pelleted seed for gardening with children or those with disabilities.

• Rejuvenate potted chives by cutting them back one inch above the soil. Place in the refrigerator for two weeks and then back in a sunny window.

• Check gardening catalogs for new, short season, hot peppers that will ripen in cool temperatures. Varieties include Espanola, Casados, Chimayo and El Guique Native.

January - Indoors

• Keep poinsettias blooming by keeping them away from drafts and keeping soil moist.

• Water houseplants when soil is dry. Overwatering causes root rot.

• Do not put holiday gift plants on the TV. The environment is too warm.

• Remove dying flowers form amaryllis plants. Allowing seed pods to remain on the plant will reduce next year's flowers.

• Move houseplants to areas of best light in your home.

• Try test tubes and beakers for unusual vases for cut flowers. Hospital supply stores might have them.

February

• Check for heaving of small shrubs and perennials.

• Force branches of flowering shrubs and trees such as viburnum, forsythia, pussy willow and redbud.

• Emerging crocuses can be potted up and brought indoors to flower.

• Order trees and shrubs such as crabapple, hawthorn and pyracantha to attract birds to your yard. For a free factsheet on attracting birds to your yard call 773-737-1178.

• Check trees and shrubs for areas that need pruning. University of Illinois Extension has a fifty-five page comprehensive guide for pruning of trees, shrubs and evergreens for a charge. Call 773-233-0476 for more information.

• Use plastic milk jugs to make labels for the spring garden. Cut into strips one inch by six or seven inches.

• Save milk jugs for hot caps and orange juice cans for placing around new transplants to control grub worms.

• Plan the vegetable garden around your family vacation so as to avoid missing big harvests while you're gone.

• Check the soil to be sure it is dry before working your vegetable garden bed. Soil should crumble in your hand.

• Start seeds indoors of cool season vegetables - broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower for planting in April.

February - Indoors

• Did you know those plants with thick leaves can take lower light levels than those with thin leaves?

• Air layer houseplants such as Dracena, Dieffenbachia and the rubber plant. For a free copy of How to Air Layer, call 773-233-0476.

• Check light, temperature, moisture, nutrients and humidity in your home if your houseplants are not growing well.

• Toss your fading poinsettia. Getting it to reflower is difficult, but if you want to try, call 773-233-0476 for the reblooming poinsettia factsheet.

• Grow attractive foliage houseplants from citrus seeds such as grapefruits, lemons and oranges.

• Try red gladioli instead of roses for Valentine's Day. You'll save a few bucks.
  

That Thanksgiving Bird: To Stuff or Not To Stuff

Each year the USDA issues a warning to consumers about the unsafe practice of cooking stuffed roast turkey, but thousands of people continue to stuff the holiday bird in spite of the risk of foodborne illness. The primary risk is in serving undercooked stuffing made with such fragile delicacies as sausage, eggs and chicken or turkey broth. Since people continue to serve stuffed roast turkey anyway, let us talk about minimizing the risk. With proper cooking methods, you can actually produce a safe roasted stuffed turkey.

Limit the turkey size. Stuffing a larger turkey than 15 to 16 pounds is asking for trouble. The larger the turkey the larger the cavity and the more stuffing inside. The stuffing acts as insulation during roasting. The interior cooking time is slowed considerably. A smaller turkey minimizes the amount of time it takes for the stuffing to heat up.

Precook the stuffing. When the turkey is done, the stuffing should have cooked to an internal temperature of 165 degrees F. If the stuffing goes into the bird hot, it will reach this temperature before the rest of the turkey is overcooked. Ingredients like sausage and other meats are usually cooked before adding to stuffing mixtures. Precooking the stuffing in a skillet or in the microwave for 5-10 minutes reduces the risk of undercooked stuffing. Also avoid using raw eggs and uncooked meat and sausages in the stuffing mix.

Stuff the turkey lightly. Do not use more than 1/2 to 3/4 cups stuffing mixture per pound of turkey. If you are cooking a 16 pound turkey, use no more than 8 to 12 cups of stuffing mix. Extra stuffing should be placed in a separate casserole and baked during the last 30 minutes of the turkey roasting time.

Use a meat thermometer. A stuffed turkey takes 30 to 60 minutes longer to cook than an unstuffed turkey. Refer to the Turkey Roasting Timetable at the end of this article. This increased cooking time often results in dry white meat. To complicate matters further, the breast meat cooks faster than the thigh by about 10 degrees F. Using an aluminum foil tent over the breast helps to slow the cooking time so that every part of the turkey is done at the same time.

The breast meat is done at 170 degrees F while the thigh takes the longest to cook to doneness at 180 degrees F. If you do not have a meat thermometer, wiggle the leg, it should move freely in the joint. Another test for doneness is to prick the thigh with a fork. The meat juices will run clear without any tinge of pink color when the turkey is done.

Remove the stuffing immediately. As soon as the stuffed turkey is done remove the stuffing to a separate serving dish. Let the bird set for 20 minutes before carving for better results. The time allows juices to redistribute producing better carving results. Leftover stuffing should be refrigerated and eaten within one to two days.

Consider cooking the stuffing in a separate dish. Using this method you eliminate the risk of overcooked turkey and the stuffing is always done. You can stuff the cavity of the turkey with chopped celery, onions, mushrooms, lemon slices and sage. You will produce a perfectly roasted, flavorful and moist turkey without the risk.

Now you can see why producing a golden brown roast turkey with moist, white meat, perfectly done dark meat and rich flavorful stuffing is nothing short of magic. Happy Holidays!

For information call the USDA Meat & Poultry Hotline at 1-800-535-4555 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. (Eastern time) Monday - Friday .

Why has foodborne illness become a significant problem? Several reasons were identified in a report to President Clinton from the Secretary of Agriculture, the Secretary of Health and Human Services and the Administrator of the Environmental Protection Agency. The report is entitled "Food Safety From Farm to Table - A National Food Safety Initiative."

Reasons why foodborne illness has become a serious problem as outlined in the report included:

• The emergence of new foodborne pathogens. New bacteria and other microorganisms that did not exist years ago.

• Existing organisms expressing increasing virulence or new ways to evade the immune defense. The evolution or changing of microorganisms. When the immune system is unable to fight off the invasion, people get sick.

• The susceptibility of certain groups of people to foodborne infections. Such groups as pregnant women and their fetuses, young children, the elderly, people taking antibiotics or antacids and people with lowered immunity due to HIV/AIDS, medications for cancer treatment or organ transplants are at greatest risk of death from foodborne illness. The impact of foodborne illness or food poisoning, as it is often called, can be substantial.

Some micro-organisms cause far more serious illness than vomiting or diarrhea. Foodborne illness can cause spontaneous abortion, reactive arthritis and HUS (hemolytic uremic syndrome), that can lead to kidney failure and death.

An estimated 5,000 people or more die each year as a result of foodborne illness. A goal of the President's Food Safety Initiative is the establishment of a more sophisticated surveillance system. Surveillance and investigation are powerful tools in the detection of new foodborne disease challenges. Such a system will provide a more rapid detection of outbreaks which is critical in preventing illness and saving lives.

As stated in the report, the primary objective of the American system of public health is to prevent disease before it occurs. Although prevention of all disease might not be possible, stopping outbreaks of foodborne illness before they affect large numbers of people is a major goal.

Winter weather robs the skin of moisture. Dry air, cold wind and heated rooms can be hard on your complexion. At this time of year, running a humidifier to moisten indoor air makes good sense. Low indoor humidity and over-heated rooms can create a very dry living environment.

• Drink plenty of water. Health experts recommend 6-8 glasses each day. Water is the best moisturizer. No amount of moisturizer on the skin's surface will eliminate a problem of dehydration. Moisturize your skin from the inside out.

• Indoor plants give off moisture and oxygen as they take in carbon dioxide. Bright colors and green foliage also liven up a room.

• To further protect your skin, avoid extremely long, hot showers. Take short lukewarm showers or 10 minute baths in tepid water. Use mild soaps or shower gels. Save the deodorant soaps for summer, they tend to strip the skin of natural oils and moisture.

• Apply moisture to well-rinsed, damp skin immediately after a shower or bath.

• Invest in lip protection. Use a lip moisturizer or moist lipstick daily. For chapped lips, spread a thin coat of petroleum jelly on lips, dampen finger tips with cool tap water and massage into lips. Repeat layers of petroleum jelly and water 3 more times. Dry skin needs moisture and the petroleum jelly helps to hold it in and promote healing.

• Wear gloves when it is cold and windy outside. Remember to use a skin moisturizer after immersion of hands in soapy water, such as after dish washing or doing a hand laundry.

• Avoid overuse of heat appliances such as blow dryers and electric curlers on your hair. Use a light conditioner and wear a hat on cold windy days.

• Wear sunglasses (especially on snowy, sunny days) to protect the eyes and the delicate skin around eyes, yes, even in winter.
  

Most Americans know they eat too much salt. Leading health authorities, including the American Heart Association, recommend limiting salt (sodium) intake in all forms to no more than 2,400 milligrams a day. Know how much that is? Just a little more than a single teaspoon. Most salt (or sodium) is hidden in processed and packaged foods as well as in fast foods. For example: A McDonald's Quarter Pounder with Cheese (1.110mg) and medium fries (970 mg) has a grand total of 2,080 mg. of sodium.

North Carolina produces more turkeys than any other state. Yearly, 62 million turkeys are raised there. Minnesota is second with 44 million. Other states in the top ten are Arkansas, California, Missouri, Virginia, Indiana, Pennsylvania, Iowa and South Carolina.

Virginians claim to have celebrated the first Thanksgiving on December 4, 1619, at Berkeley Plantation located just southeast of Richmond on the James River. But, most people associate the holiday with the Pilgrims who ate their famous harvest meal with the American Indians in 1620 and, actually, they ate wild turkey.

Only male turkeys gobble. Hens (females) make a clicking sound. Males have a "beard," a black lock of hair found on the chest and both sexes have a "comb," the colorful red-violet and blue covering on top of the head and a "wattle," a bright red appendage at the neck.

Transporting Cooked Holiday Food

For many people, the grocery, deli, restaurant or a caterer may be the closest thing to Grandma's home-cooked holiday dinner. Others enjoy large gatherings with mountains of traditional foods that are shared among family members. Whether it is a plate of scrumptious desserts or samples from the entire holiday meal, movable feasts need protection too.

It is always a good idea to be prepared so that your cargo arrives home intact. Select plastic containers with tightly fitting lids, blue ice packs, insulated bags and/or coolers for your carry out food. Do not rely on paper plates covered with aluminum foil for transporting food from a family gathering. Paper plates collapse and aluminum foil shifts, exposing food to the elements, dust and dirt. Be discreet and place a cooler in your trunk and leave your carry out plate in the refrigerator until you are ready to go home. Do not rely on cool weather to protect your treasure. If you are not driving, carry an insulated lunch type bag and ice pack. Then place carry-out in the refrigerator promptly.

Restaurant doggie bags need refrigeration as soon as possible also. Foods rich in protein such as eggs, meats, broth, gravies and sauces tend to spoil quickly. The bacterium that causes foodborne illness most often does not cause food to spoil. So handle food properly to ensure safety. Cooked foods should not remain unrefrigerated for more than two hours. After that time bacteria will grow and multiply at a fantastic rate. Keep hot foods hot and cold foods cold.

Bread Is Not Really Fattening!

Who eats the most grains? Most of New England, Virginia and West Virginia, Florida and Arizona, according to the Wheat Foods Council. Who eats too little grain? Those in the Midwest. The reason? They think it's too fattening, a survey by the Wheat Council found: "Shoppers in the Midwest may be shying away from bread and grains because they're more likely to buy into the mistaken notion that bread is fattening."

Foods from the bread and cereal group are the basis for a healthy diet. These foods supply complex carbohydrates (starch), which are an important source of energy. They also provide vitamins, minerals and fiber. The Food Guide Pyramid suggests six to eleven servings of these foods each day.

No! These foods are not fattening. It's what you add to these foods or cook with them that adds most of the calories. For example: margarine or butter on toast, cream cheese on bagel and cheese, butter and eggs on macaroni to make macaroni and cheese. Sugars and fats are used with flour of course to create cakes, pies and other high calorie desserts. If you go easy on the toppings, fats and sugars, the Bread and Cereal Group will no longer be a problem.

Homemade Eggnog Must Be Cooked

Eggnog shows up on the grocery shelf only once a year. Sold exclusively between November and January, it has become one of those winter holiday traditions. This is probably for the best since traditional eggnog is loaded with artery clogging saturated fat from the heavy cream, cholesterol from the eggs, loads of sugar and sometimes brandy or whiskey. It should be enjoyed in moderation only once or twice a year. Commercial eggnog is pasteurized or cooked. There are two homemade versions, one is cooked and the other is made with raw eggs. The USDA issued a warning against eating raw eggs in 1988. The danger is Salmonella. No amount of brandy or whiskey will kill Salmonella. Foods made with eggs must be cooked to 160 degrees F in order to be safe. True, not every egg is contaminated with Salmonella, but you cannot tell which are safe by looking. Until recently whole, fresh, uncracked eggs were bacteria-free. But something is happening to many microorganisms in our atmosphere. Some are changing and behaving in new ways. Salmonella is one of those bacteria which has undergone a change in the last decade. Scientists still do not know why. Until a solution is found, raw eggs are a risk to your health.