Growing turfgrass in shade is a major problem for many homeowners. An estimated 20 to 25 percent of all grassy areas in the U.S. are shaded to varying degrees. While it's not always advisable to even try to maintain beautiful grass in shaded conditions, the not-for-profit Turf Resource Center recommends the following five steps to maximize turf in shady areas.

Step 1. Make an informed decision about the likelihood of success.

Even the most shade-tolerant grasses need at least 50% sunlight or a minimum of four hours of sunlight daily to survive. Pruning a tree's canopy and its lower 8-10 feet of limbs will allow more sunlight to reach the ground, but it might be destructive to the tree or spoil its natural appearance. If you can't achieve minimal sunlight for grass, switch to a shade-tolerant ground cover.

Step 2. Select the most shade-tolerant grass species possible for your climate.

Not all grasses are created equal especially when it comes to light requirements. Various independent researchers have established the following rankings for shade tolerance. Warm- season grasses (most tolerant first): St. Augustinegrass, centipedegrass, zoysiagrass, bahiagrass, carpetgrass, Bermudagrass. Cool-season grasses: (most tolerant first): fine fescue, bentgrass, rough bluegrass, shade tolerant cultivars of Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, perennial ryegrass, shade-intolerant cultivars of Kentucky bluegrass. (Consult your local Extension office for specific cultivar recommendations that should include considerations of local maximum and minimum temperatures and disease factors.)

Step 3. Select trees that complement turf's presence.

Trees with dense canopies and/or shallow root systems create problems for turf. Avoid maples, oaks, magnolias, elms and sweet gums because of their dense canopies and steer away from beeches, maples and willows because of the shallow root systems. The open canopies of trees such as poplars, birches, pines, locusts and ginkgos can work well in concert with grass.

Step 4. Adjust turf maintenance practices to maximize the chances of success.

Water early in the morning and infrequently, applying enough water at a single time to moisten the soil five to eight inches deep. This approach will reduce the potential outbreak of turf diseases that thrive in damp, shady areas.

Mow at a minimum height of 2-1/2 to 3 inches, removing no more than the top one-third of the grass blades. Most heavily shaded grass grows more upright and stringy to increase the leaf surface and capture any available sunlight. Cutting at a greater than normal height allows this to continue.

Fertilize at half-dose rates of nitrogen, compared to the sunnier areas of the lawn and increase potassium rates. Nitrogen encourages succulence that can decrease wear tolerance and increase disease susceptibility, while potassium can improve both conditions.

Herbicide applications should rarely be used because they will place yet another stress on already stressed grass.

Step 5. Reduce heavy use of the shaded grass areas.

As fragile as shaded grass plants are, it doesn't take much to tear out their shallow root systems or otherwise damage the plants beyond their ability to recover. Limiting heavy use enables the grass to handle other stresses better.

One final suggestion: plan to re-sod heavily shaded areas every few years as part of the yard's overall maintenance and improvement plan. Stripping off nearly non-existent grass and replacing it with dense, mature turf can immediately refresh a shady area.

Adapted from a recent press release supplied by the Turf Resource Center (sponsored by Turfgrass Producers International), 1855 A Hicks Rd., Rolling Meadows, IL., 60008. Source: HortIdeas, June 1998.

Trees and shrubs require just as much care as vegetable and flower gardens. Watering is a common practice associated with all plants.

However, there is a difference in watering amounts and timing.

Water is essential for the plant to manufacture food. It also acts as a coolant, keeping the plant from overheating on summer days. Finally, water serves as a system for transporting food throughout the plant.

The lack of available water reduces the plant's ability to make food and maintain normal functions. Symptoms of water stress include wilting and loss of leaves. Branches may bend, also.

Large trees lose gallons of water daily. For an example, a 90 foot oak with an equal spread may lose 90 gallons of water when the temperature is 90 degrees. That's per day!

Contrary to popular belief, most roots are not located beneath the tree or shrub and few roots are found deep in the soil. Most of the tree or shrub roots that absorb water, called feeder roots, are within the top fifteen inches of soil. These roots are generally congregated at the dripline or outer branches of the plant. Mature plants may have feeder roots extending six to fifty feet past the dripline. Few water absorbing roots are under the plant's canopy or near the trunk.

Feeder roots aren't large. Most are finer than a strand of hair. They're easily severed when digging or can dry out during droughts. On the other hand, they're easily replaced.

It's easy to understand how a drought and hot weather can have an effect on a tree or shrub's health. When temperatures climb above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, the soil can lose a fourth-inch of moisture per day. Four consecutive days of 90 plus temperatures results in a loss of an inch of moisture. An inch of water will usually wet the ground six to eight inches depending on the soil type. Gravity and capillary action is primarily responsible for water deeper in the soil moving toward the surface.

Watering should occur when less than an inch of rain has fallen in a two week period and temperatures have passed 85 degrees.

For practical purposes, plan on providing an inch or two of water every two weeks. In order to saturate the soil, apply the amount in a single application.

Several light applications totaling an inch or two over a two week period tends to force roots to the surface in search of water. These roots, then, are prone to drying out when the soil surface starts drying.

A single, heavy application keeps roots deep. While the soil surface is drying out, deep moisture concentrations are attracting roots. The end result is less root death due to temperature extremes.

Additionally, root growth increases at lower levels since soil temperatures are cooler twelve or more inches deep.

An inch thick can, such as a tuna fish or cat food can, can be placed near the dripline when sprinklers are used. As soon as the can is filled, empty and allow it to be refilled once more.

Soil soakers can be used, but tend not to soak in as deep in an average time period. Soakers almost need to be left running overnight to adequately water a large tree.

Root feeders can also be used. However, it is difficult to gauge when the soil is moist. Follow directions listed on the package for guidelines. If in doubt, plunge an eighteen inch long metal rod in the ground near the feeder. It should penetrate easily for twelve to fifteen inches if the soil is adequately moist.

Water in the early morning or late evening to avoid quick evaporation.

Source: David Robson, Extension Educator Horticulture, University of Illinois

The hot, dry days of July are more than a discomfort to many shade trees. Leaf scorch, a non-infectious disease is becoming more prevalent with each hot day.

Leaf scorch is first noticed as a yellowing or bronzing of tissue between the veins or along the margins of leaves.

Trees are more susceptible if they have low vigor, have been damaged by machinery or are surrounded by cement sidewalks or driveways.

Symptoms usually follow drying winds or bright sunlight. Later, these leaves appear dry and scorched and may even drop off. However, the tree itself will not die.

In most cases, all leaves on the same branch are affected more or less uniformly. Frequently, only one side of the tree is affected – the side exposed to the sun or drying winds. Occasionally, individual trees are severely damaged, while those of the same species in the immediate vicinity are unaffected.

Leaf scorch is caused by failure of the tree to supply enough water to the leaves at a critical time, usually in July and August. A great amount of water evaporates from the leaf surface because of sun and wind during hot, dry weather. If the water supply is deficient, the exposed leaves actually dry out and scorch.

Trees with defective root systems are particularly subject to leaf scorch. The same holds true for trees whose roots have been partly removed or covered with impervious material like asphalt or concrete paving.

Soil that drains excessively or that has a low water table as well as attacks by leaf-sucking insects can also contribute to the scorch problem.

Leaf scorch cannot be corrected once it appears, but injury can be kept to a minimum by improving the tree's general condition.

If the tree has a permanently suppressed or injured root system, prune some of the branches to maintain an even balance between top and roots. This practice will not injure the tree and may actually improve its appearance.

In the spring, apply fertilizer.

For prized trees, mulch to improve the soil's water-holding capacity and water liberally to the sub-surface during hot weather.

If the root system has been injured by excavation, you can expect leaf scorch to recur during drought until the tree repairs the damage or produces a new root system.

Source: David Robson, Horticulture Educator, University of Illniois

An effective spray program can mean the difference between a garden that thrives and one that dies on the vine. Whether you're a veteran or a novice, organic or generalist, there are some basic spraying facts every gardener should keep in mind.

You should mix spray material as recommended.

Start with the proper spray material. Then follow all directions and precautions on the label of pesticide. A common misconception is that if one tablespoon of pesticide is recommended, two tablespoons will be twice as effective.

Effectiveness will not be increased by doubling the amount of chemical. In fact, higher concentrations of pesticide can harm plants and is against Federal law.

Use proper measuring utensils. Don't guess at amounts. Measure the pesticides carefully and mix only the amount needed for a job. Keep measuring utensil separate from cooking utensils. Never use pesticide measures for food.

When you spray, remember that "how you spray does make a difference." Spray on target (pest), especially under leaves where insects settle and many plant diseases begin. A haphazard application will not curb an infestation of insects or stop the spread of plant disease.

Spray just to the point of run-off, never drench the plants. You may think more spray is better, but over spraying can injure plants and excess run-off may hit non-target plants.

"On target" spray applications require equipment which give you control over the spray, so use proper equipment.

Use a sprayer with "control" features such as an adjustable nozzle for various spraying jobs, a positive on-off valve for precise application and a long spray extension for easy reach under leaves. This can be a pressure sprayer or a hose sprayer. Dusters can be used for dust applications.

Watch the weather and spray before the heat of the day and always avoid spraying when temperatures are high. High temperatures cause some pesticides to evaporate and decompose quickly. Rain or watering after application will reduce effectiveness by washing the spray material off plant leaves. But most formulations can withstand one-half to one inch of rainfall.

Spray when it's calm as on a calm day. Pesticide "drift", the movement of spray from the place of release, should be avoided. Drift can also be minimized by spraying at a lower pressure and using the largest practical nozzle opening. Wind speeds should be below 5 miles per hour. Early morning and early evening are relatively calm periods.

Source: David Robson, Horticulture Educator, University of Illinois

Grubs

Grub damage usually appears in northern Illinois in August and early September. This damage will appear as browning of the lawn. Consider that this also could be due to problems such as drought, poor soil and diseases. However, grubs are easy to find by lifting sod in damaged areas and checking the root zone for the whitish grubs. Don't treat for grubs that don't exist! Skunks and raccoons may tear up lawns in search of grubs, even when grub numbers are relatively low. Typically a population of about 8 to 12 grubs per square foot causes lawn damage that requires control; whereas lower populations may not damage the grass, they may attract skunks and raccoons.

Lawns showing damage from grubs may be treated with an insecticide. Insecticides available for homeowners include Diazinon (25% EC [liquid] or 5 % granular); trichlorfon (Dylox) (6.2% granular); bendiocarb (Intercept); or imidacloprid (Merit, GrubEx) for control of white grubs. Promising newer products (including biological controls) are being researched and may be appearing in future recommendations.

Read all insecticide label directions, then apply to damaged areas. Water the insecticide into the soil immediately. If treating a large area, stop after a portion has been treated and water the material in, then complete the rest of the lawn area needing treatment. Only treat in and around affected areas; grubs may only be in a small part of the lawn. Imidacloprid is suggested to be applied a few weeks prior to anticipated grub infestations.

Spring treatment for annual white grubs is not suggested since the grubs feed for a short period of time in spring and are reaching maturity, thus are not controlled easily. In addition, turfgrasses are actively growing at that time and usually don't show damage.

Source: Bruce Spangenberg, Extension Educator, Horticulture, University of Illinois

July

• Irrigation (as needed or allow lawn to go dormant)

• Monitoring for pests/problems (sod webworm)

August

• Monitor for pests (annual white grubs mid-August thru September)

• Irrigation (as needed)

• Prepare for seeding, overseeding (optimum time)

• Seeding - latter half of month (optimum time)
  

Take the Lawn Challenge
Take the Lawn Challenge! This eight lesson guide to home lawn care includes helpful hints and quizzes to test your knowledge.

Ask the Expert
Are you bugged by garden pests? Stumped by your trees? Worried that no vegetables will turnip n your garden? Or needing rescue for your fescue? Get answers to your horticulture and gardening questions from University of Illinois Extension educators.

1998 Hosta of the Year: 'Fragrant Bouquet'

This hosta, said to perform well in much of the U.S., has heart-shaped leaves that average eight inches long by six inches wide when fully grown. The leaves are golden yellow when young, become apple green with a creamy border. Its three-inch long, fragrant white flowers are borne on three foot scapes in August. 'Fragrant Bouquet' plants reach about 18 inches high by 36 inches wide.

Hostas of the Year awards are named by the American Hosta Growers Association. The goals of the AHGA are to boost interest in hostas, to provide information on hosta care and to help standardize hosta nomenclature.

Plant Information Online

This substantial horticultural database developed by he University of Minnesota Libraries (in cooperation with the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum) is accessible via the World Wide Web to subscribers only ($39.95 per year for individuals, $59.95 per year for institutions/firms). There are listings of more than 1,000 North American nurseries (with searching allowed by firm name, location and specialty) and thousands of sources for particular plants (for example, more than 3,000 rhododendrons) but the main section of the database is even more impressive: The Plant Citations database catalogs color illustrations and information (published after 1981, with ongoing updates) on more than 75,000 flowering plants. This database is a continuation of previous plant illustrations lists, namely Index Londinensis (1929-1931) and Flowering Plant Index of Illustration and Information (1979, 1982); it includes all of the entries - more than 150,000 - in the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum's FPI: Flowering Plant Index (1990-1997), as well as thousands of new entries from 150 current periodicals. Beginning this year, ferns are included in the database. The illustrations themselves are not in the database, due to copyright restrictions. Individual entries provide information on nomenclature, citation and parts of the plant illustrated.

The WWW address of Plant Information Online is as follows: http://plantinfo.umn.edu.

Woodchips – Termites

Termites seldom attack woodchips near a home's foundation due to the fact termites are light and heat sensitive. The insects tend to avoid areas that are not damp nor dark.

To avoid any unnecessary termite problems, limit the depth of woodchips to four (4) inches around a building's foundation. Check foundations several times a year for evidence of termite mud tunnels or activity.

English Ivy - Brick

English Ivy should not be allowed to grow on brick buildings as the roots will eat away at the mortar, causing bricks to crumble and fall, especially if the mortar has started to crumble.

As an alternative, Boston Ivy can be used if vines are removed from the buildings each spring.

Early Blight & Blossom End Rot

Tomatoes may show early blight and blossom-end rot. Early blight is when the lower leaves show spotting, turn yellow and drop off. Spray or dust with tomato fungicides. Blossom-end rot infections appear on the bottom of the fruit when ripening. Mulching and watering is the best control.

Extra Planting

Make another planting of cucumbers, summer squash and snap beans early in the month. Seed the fall garden crops of beans, broccoli, cabbage, spinach and turnips late in the month.

Splitting Heads

Cabbage is maturing and it will store in the garden for a week or two. Head splitting can be reduced by using a spade to cut roots on two sides of the plant. This reduces water uptake from rain or irrigation.

Continue to plant beets, beans, sweet corn and cucumbers.

Misting tomato and pepper plants during hot weather can help the blossoms set fruit.

Pick cucumbers every day. Peak quality only lasts a day on the vine.

Don't peel cucumbers. The vitamin A is in the skin.

Water vegetables in the morning. Watering in the evening will make them more susceptible to diseases.

Look for blackened twigs and branches on apple trees. This could be fireblight. For a free factsheet call 773-233-0476.

"Pick Your Own" fresh vegetables at area Pick Your Own Farms. For a listing of farms call 773-233-0476.

Wilting tomato leaves may indicate verticillium or fusarium wilt diseases. Give us a call for the factsheet.

Reduce bitterness in cucumbers by watering during dry weather.

Seed collards, mustard and rutabagas for fall harvest.

Shake tomato plants gently to help insure pollination and fruit set.

Do not refrigerate just picked tomatoes. Quality deteriorates in the cold.

Harvest early potatoes when they are golf ball size.

Write your child's name on a pumpkin when they are softball size. Use a ballpoint pen, just breaking the skin. The names will expand as the pumpkins grow.

Grow a cucumber in a bottle. Find a tiny cucumber and put it into a small necked bottle. Shade the bottle with cloth or leaves. Harvest the cucumber when it grows to the bottom of the bottle. Prepare a brine and fill the bottle. Vola! Your own pickle in a bottle.

Sunken or black areas on tomatoes and peppers is blossom end rot. Factsheet available.

Plan a family outing to one of the following county fairs:

• DuPage - July 22nd - 26th - for more information call 630-668-6636
• Grundy - July 1 - 5th - for more information 815-942-5958
• Kane - July 14th - 19th - for more information call 630-584-6926
• Kankakee - July 29th - August 2nd - for more information call 815-932-6714
• Kendall - July 31st - August 2nd - for more information call 630-553-2860
• Lake - July 28th - August 2nd - for more information call 847-223-2204

To locate a city of Chicago's Farmers' Market in your neighborhood, call 312-744-9187. They will mail you a printed schedule.

Keep the main stems of dahlias free of side shoots. Allow only the terminal bud to develop. This will help to produce a larger flower.

Cut back faded annuals to half their height and fertilize. This will help to promote a second bloom.

Stop pinching back mums in mid-July so they will develop flower buds for fall.

Order autumn crocus and colchicum.

Divide and transplant bearded iris after blooming.

Buying ladybugs to control aphids is a good idea only if there are aphids in your garden. No aphids....ladybugs will fly away.

Buying praying mantis for insect control may not be a good idea. Praying mantis are not selective in their eating habits. They will eat both "good" and "bad" insects.

Make an instant trellis by removing the plastic or cloth from an old umbrella; open it and stick the handle into the soil near a plant.

Cut roses late in the day. They will last longer.

Check container grown flowers and vegetables two times a day during hot weather to see if they need watering.

Did you know that over a fifty year lifetime a tree can generate $31,250 worth of oxygen and recycle $37,500 worth of water?

Make a final fertilization of roses. Do not fertilize after August 1st. New growth will not harden off before winter.

Cut back straggly looking petunias in mid-July. This will promote new and vigorous growth.

July - Indoors

Protect indoor plants from strong summer sun. Close curtains and partially pull blinds.

Let tap water stand until it reaches room temperature before watering houseplants.

Root cuttings of coleus, geraniums, Swedish ivy and Wander Jew. Factsheet available.

Keep houseplants away from cold drafts from air conditioners.

August - Edible

Radish, lettuce, spinach and green onions can be planted in late August for a fall harvest.

Flying white moths around cabbage plants indicate cabbage worms will soon be feasting on your cabbage. Use Bacillus thuringiensis to control.

Check sweet corn for peak quality by puncturing kernels with a fingernail. If the kernels ooze a milky juice; harvest. If the liquid is watery; wait a few days. If kernels are tough; you are too late.

Sweet corn is usually ready to pick about twenty days after the first silks appear.

Harvest onions when the tops have browned and started to fall over. Pull them and dry outside in the sun for a week or two.

Start a compost pile. Booklet available.

Improve your soil. Sow a green manure crop of oats, rye or ryegrass in harvested garden area. Factsheet available.

Sow greens, lettuce, radishes and turnips for fall harvest.

Watch zucchini squash! In hot weather squash is ready to pick four to eight days after flowering.

Dip summer squash blossoms in a batter and fry. They are edible.

Plan a family outing to one of the following county fairs:

• McHenry - August 5th - 9th - 815-338-5315
• Will - August 26th - 30th - 708-258-3266

August - Ornamental

Provide water for insect eating birds.

Seed lawns in late August. Less competition with annual weeds at this time of year.

Water your lawn if after walking on it there is a footprint or the grass does not spring back.

Plant autumn crocus and colchicum for fall blooms.

Purchase garden supplies before they are removed from the shelves in the fall.

Pot up tulip bulbs late in the month to be forced for Christmas bloom.

Order spring flowering bulbs

Cut back bleeding hearts when foliage yellows.

Divide bleeding hearts. Factsheet available.

Watch for leaf scorch on trees during hot and dry weather; browning along edges of leaves; control by watering trees.

Falling clusters of leaves attached to short twigs are a result of squirrel or insect activity.

Squirrel Problem! Trim tree branches back six to eight feet from buildings to prevent access to roofs. Close openings to attics and other building areas.

Before using a pesticide identify the insect and try non-chemical controls. For a copy of the 1998 Illinois Homeowners' Guide to Pest Management (costs $8.00 + P&H).

During hot, dry weather, water plants a few hours before applying pesticides to avoid burning the leaves.

Yellowjackets spoiling your picnic or making your walk to the garbage can a battleground? Factsheet available.

August - Interior

Use your aquarium water to fertilize your houseplants. Fish fertilize the water naturally.

Check houseplants for insects.

Going on vacation? Water plants just before you leave and group outside in a shady spot or make a large greenhouse by putting watered houseplants in the bathtub and taping plastic sheeting to walls and sides of tub.

What to Do with Food During a Power Outage

Summer is here and we, in Illinois, live in "tornado alley." Summer storms and that ominous black funnel cloud can cause power outages that may last for days. Food can be jeopardized during prolonged blackouts. Here's some helpful information you can use during the next power outage.

• Keep the freezer closed! Resist the urge to open the door to squeeze the food. This keeps the cold air inside the freezer. Do not open the door any more than necessary. Note the time when the power went out. Is your freezer full, half-full, or almost empty?

• A full freezer will stay at freezing temperatures for 2 days and a half-full freezer for about one day. If your freezer is not full, open and quickly group packages together forming an "igloo" to increase the protection of each package.

• If you believe the power will be out for several days, try to locate dry ice. Follow the handling instructions carefully. Do not touch the dry ice with bare hands or inhale the fumes. Twenty-five pounds of dry ice will hold a 10 cubic foot full freezer for 3 to 4 days.

• If your freezer is almost empty and the power has been out for several hours, you may need to transfer the refrigerator foods to the freezer section. Work quickly and group chilled food around frozen packages.

• Although dry ice can be used in the refrigerator too, block ice works better. Use a tray or deep pan to hold the block of ice. Put everything that is salvageable in the freezer section with frozen foods. Add ice if necessary.

• If food has started to thaw when the power comes back on, what can be safely kept? You will need to evaluate each item separately. See the attached tear-and-save chart for refrigerator and freezer foods. Keep the chart on hand for future reference.

• Generally, be very careful with meats, fish and poultry products or any food containing milk, eggs, cream, sour cream or soft cheese. These items are highly perishable. When in doubt, throw it out.

• Raw meats and poultry from the freezer can usually be refrozen without too much quality loss if there are ice crystals remaining or the meat is still very cold. Assess each package.

• Prepared foods, vegetables and fruits can normally be refrozen, but there may be some quality loss. Fruits and fruit juices can be safely refrozen with minimal quality loss. Condiments such as mustard, catsup, pickles, butter, margarine and relish can be safely re-chilled or kept at room temperature for several days.

• Generally, refrigerated items should be safe as long as the power is not out for no more than a few hours and the door is kept closed. After that you may have to discard them unless block ice was added or food items were transferred to the freezer.

• Always discard any fully cooked foods that have come in contact with raw meat juices. Remember you cannot rely on appearance or odor to determine safety. Never taste food suspected of spoilage. Some foods may smell or look fine, but food held for hours at room temperature may cause food poisoning. Again, when in doubt, throw it out.

• For more information call the Meat and Poultry Hotline at 1-800-535-4555

Friendship cakes have been called the "edible chain letter." Various friendship cake starters have been passed from person to person for more than a hundred years. The original concoction, a.k.a. Amish Friendship Cake or Herman Cake, started as a mixture of flour, sugar and water. Airborne yeast fermented the mixture which was a staple to early pioneers in bread making. Of course, this was before you could buy active dry yeast at the grocery store.

The starter, which was the leavening agent, was used to make pancakes, breads and cakes. Sourdough packing pioneers relied on the starter as a leavening agent. Today's friendship bread recipes are more of a luxury or a novelty than a necessary staple.

When the starter is passed on, a recipe and instructions are given with it. The mixture sits on the counter for seventy-two hours, until it becomes a fermented starter. Then, according to a carefully prescribed ritual, the starter is fed and stirred daily. The stirring must be done with a wooden spoon, for 10 more days. If it is not carefully natured, the starter will die.

But then if it lives, the resulting mass must be divided. One portion goes into a quick bread batter, another is kept and the two remaining portions are given to friends, thus the name - friendship bread. Folks too greedy to share have found that the starter spreads to gigantic proportions, soon over-running the kitchen. After experiencing this disaster, most people are compelled to pass it on.

Anthropologists say people like to share things they have invested their time in. It is the notion of giving something of yourself. Although this friendship bread starter is a frugal gift, it is homemade and it produces a mouth-watering bread with a distinctive taste that can only be achieved with the starter.

What give friendship bread that distinctive flavor? The acids produced as a by-product of the growing yeast create wonderful flavor. The acids are the vital part of the flavor compound that gives each loaf it's slightly different tang. The acids also help preserve the starter by inhibiting the growth of certain harmful bacteria.

Avoid starter recipes that call for the addition of milk, cream or eggs. These mixtures may change colors, start to smell putrid and look slimy. This is a definite indication that something other than yeast is living in your starter. Animal products were not a part of the original starter recipe. Rather, they were added only when the cake was mixed for baking.

Recipes that call for milk, cream or eggs in the starter will support the growth of some modern day bacteria. Salmonella, Clostridium perfringens and staphylococcus areus like to grow in dairy products left at room temperature for hours. The modern day version is also refrigerated after 72 hours as an added safety feature.

Why all the safety precautions? Because times have changed and so have conditions on this planet. Let's face it. The pioneers did not have to contend with a hole in the ozone layer, acid rain, polluted waterways or a disappearing rain forest. They also led different lifestyles. They exercised much more, worked harder and were exposed to fewer chemicals. Some even walked from St. Louis to California or there about.

How to Make a Friendship Cake Starter

There are a least a hundred versions of the starter and the resulting bread or cake recipe going around. There is one with fruit, one with nuts, one made with whole wheat flour and raisins and the list goes on and on. Here is one method for starting the starter.

Friendship Cake Starter Recipe

1 package active dry yeast
3 cups warm water (105° to 115°F), divided
2 cups all purpose flour, sifted
2 tablespoons sugar
Starter food

1. Dissolve yeast in 1/2 cup warm water, stirring well; let stand 5 minutes or until bubbly.

2. Combine remaining water, flour and sugar in a medium size, non-metallic bowl; mix well. Add dissolved yeast and stir well.

3. Cover loosely with plastic wrap or cheesecloth and let stand in a warm place (80°-85°F) three days, stirring 2-3 times daily.

4. Place fermented mixture in refrigerator at this point. Stir daily and use within 11 days. Always bring starter to room temperature before using in cake recipe. Allow to set in a warm place for one hour or longer before using. Stir well, then measure amount needed for recipe.

5. Or on day 10 divide the mixture. Measure two to three cups starter for recipe. Divide remaining starter into one cup portions. Place in plastic or glass containers, loosely cover with plastic wrap. Keep one cup for yourself and give one cup each to friends along with the "Nurturing Your Starter" instructions and cake recipe.

Nurturing Your Starter

Starter Food--Your starter should have a sweet yeasty smell. If at any time you notice signs of spoilage toss the starter and begin again. Do not add milk, cream, or eggs to starter or it may produce harmful bacteria.

Day #1 -- The day your receive your 1 cup of starter, stir the mixture with a wooden spoon, let it sit on a counter, loosely covered with crumpled plastic wrap or wax paper for one day. Do not refrigerate at this point. Use a nonmetallic container.

Day #2, 3, 4 -- Refrigerate, stir the mixture each day, keep loosely covered.

Day #5 -- Transfer starter to a larger glass or ceramic jar or bowl. Add the following "starter food."

• 1 cup water
• 1 cup flour
• 1 cup sugar

Stir to mix, cover loosely and return batter to the refrigerator. Mixture will expand. Your container should not be more than half full. Refrigerate the starter at this point.

Day #6, 7, 8, 9 -- Stir only and keep refrigerated, loosely covered.

Day # 10 -- You may need to transfer the batter to an even larger container.

Add more starter food and stir. Allow starter to sit at room temperature for one hour. Remove 3 cup for three friends, and measure 3 cups for the following recipe.

Note: If you keep a cup for yourself, start over, beginning with Day #1.

Fruit & Nuts Friendship Cake

1-1/2 teaspoons baking soda
1 cup sugar
2 cups all purpose flour
2/3 cup vegetable oil
2 teaspoons baking powder
1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup chopped apples
3 cups starter
1 cup raisins or chopped nuts
1 egg plus 2 egg whites

1. Combine dry ingredients in a large bowl, set aside.
2. In another large bowl mix starter, egg and whites, sugar, oil and vanilla.
3. Add flour mixture, apples and raisins or nuts.
4. Pour into a greased and floured tube pan or 9 x 11 loaf pan.
5. Bake at 350°F for 50 to 60 minutes. Cool, dust with powdered sugar.

Note: Any combination of fruit and nuts can be used as long as the total equals 2 cups. Try crushed, drained pineapples, dates, pecans, or almonds.

At the Farmers' Market

The farmers' market is not a new idea, but it is enjoying more success today than ever before. Chicago neighborhood farmers' markets opened in late June and will stay around until October in most areas.

The Farmers' Market gives "city folks" an opportunity to meet the small time farmers. Do not confuse "farmers' market" shopping with supermarket shopping. The produce here was driven in from local farms only a few miles away. This stuff was picked yesterday not last month.

Breath deeply and allow the fragrance of the fresh air market inspire your selections. Rather than taking a grocery list, take a blank page and pen. Produce is at peak quality and ready to eat out-of-hand or to add to your favorite summertime side dish. Below are some simple guidelines designed to make your next trip to the farmers' market a wonderful experience.

• If you snooze, you lose, so arrive early for best selection.

• Bring your own bags and several ridged containers for fragile berries.

• As you pack your bag, carefully arrange the produce so hard stuff is on the bottom, ripe produce suffers damage easily.

• On really hot days, it is a good idea to put a cooler and small bag of ice in your trunk to keep things cool until you get home.

• Bring plenty of change and small bills.

• Try to cruise the entire market before making purchases. Note which stands have the best looking greens and sweetest smelling peaches. Follow your nose.

• Unless you plan to freeze some of your purchases, buy in small quantities that can be eaten in a week, next week you can come back for more.

• Be friendly, get to know the farmers, ask questions, be complimentary and above all have fun.

Fresh ripe fruits and vegetables have a short life (especially berries), try not to purchase more than you can eat in a few days. Ripe fruit is fragile, so pay attention to the scents and make sweet smelling selections. Remember, underripe fruit hasn't reach it's nutritional peak and if it is overripe, it will have lost valuable nutrients.

Store unwashed produce in the refrigerator and rinse in cold water just before you use it. Store produce loosely wrapped in plastic bags. Store mushrooms in paper bags to prevent the development of sliminess. Eat the ripest produce first and store the rest in the refrigerator.

To find out more about farmers' markets and the locations in your city, call the American Farmland Trust at (202) 659-5170 or visit their website at http://www.farmland.org.

"Is it safer to use wood or plastic?" According to Dr. Susan Brewer, RD, PhD, "one can be as safe as the other." The most important factor is proper cleaning and avoiding cross contamination by using the same surface for raw meats and cooked or raw vegetables that will not be cooked.

It is best to use plastic or glass surfaces for cutting raw meat and poultry. However, wooden cutting boards used exclusively for raw meat and poultry are acceptable. Use a different board for cutting other foods such as produce and bread. This will prevent bacteria from a meat or poultry product from contaminating another food.

Wash all cutting boards thoroughly. To keep all cutting boards clean, wash them in hot, soapy water after each use; then rinse and air dry or pat with a fresh paper towel. Non-porous acrylic, plastic or glass boards and solid wood boards can be washed in an automatic dishwasher. Laminated boards may crack and split.

Sanitize cutting boards occasionally. Both wooden and plastic cutting boards can be sanitized with a solution of two teaspoons liquid chlorine bleach per quart of water. Do not add soap or detergent. Rinse or spray clean washed cutting board with the sanitizing solution. Allow the boards to stand for 10 minutes then rinse with clear hot water. Air dry or pat dry with paper towels.

Replace battered cutting boards. Even plastic boards wear out over time. Once cutting boards become excessively worn or develop hard to clean grooves, they should be replaced.

Recent studies by the Food & Drug Administration's Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition found that microorganisms become trapped in wooden surfaces and are difficult to dislodge by rinsing. Once trapped, bacteria survive in a dormant stage for long periods of time. The next time the cutting board is used, these bacteria can contaminate other foods, potentially causing foodborne illness. On the other hand, the study found that microorganisms are easily washed off the surface of plastic boards.

For more information on cutting board safety, visit the FDA web site at http://www.fda.gov.

Shady Shopping

Aside from looking good, the perfect pair of sunglasses must screen out glare and block every possible ray of ultraviolet light. Ultraviolet light is the type of light that can lead to cataracts and skin cancer, not to mention crow's feet. When selecting sunglasses follow these guidelines:

• Read the label. The label on the lens should read "100% UVA/UVB absorption.

• The lenses need to be dark enough to prevent squinting. Squinting is the major cause of those tiny wrinkles that form at the corner of the eyes.

• Do not buy glasses with trendy colored lenses. Gray, brown or green lenses are best.

• Some colors, such as blue, red and orange may obscure traffic lights and emergency vehicle flashing lights.

• Although very narrow lenses are fashionable, large lenses block more light. And as corny as they may seem, wraparound styles screen out the most light.

Cream Cheese

Cream cheese is one of the fattiest cheeses on the market today. Full fat cream cheese contains 10 grams of fat per tablespoon. Ninety percent of its 100 calories are from fat. Reduced-fat creamed cheeses contain one-third to one-half the fat and they are tasty alternatives.