Many readers have expressed an interest in the use of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) as a preventive fungicide.

For some time now, both sodium bicarbonate and potassium bicarbonate have been registered with the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as active ingredients for use as fungicides. The problem is that none of the registrants have taken the next critical steps: label approval, product formulation and marketing. Just when we thought we may never see an actual product on the shelves, a June 5 Federal Register notice indicated renewed commercial interest. After making a few phone calls, two potassium bicarbonate products of interest were identified.

Within the last few months, Monterey Lawn & Garden Products Inc. began marketing the fungicide Kaligreen, a soluble powder formulation containing 82% potassium bicarbonate. The label and unit size (2-1/2 pounds) indicate that this is not a product for homeowner use. Monterey does offer many fungicides for use by homeowners, but the company's market focus is on the west coast.

In the near future, Bonide will begin marketing a product named Remedy. The registrant (H & I Agritech) is currently formulating the product (82% potassium bicarbonate) and securing state registrations. What does Remedy control and when can you buy it? We have been told it will have a broad homeowner landscape focus for use against a variety of leaf pathogens, particularly powdery mildew. If demand is sufficient, retailers may carry this product next year. A few Illinois garden centers and retailers carry other Bonide products.

In the meantime, one strong reminder: Any product we (Extension employees) recommend to control a pest must be a registered pesticide. In other words, the product must be approved by the EPA and must bear an EPA registration number on the product label. Thus, we cannot recommend a "home remedy" to control a pest.

Source: Bruce Paulsrud, Home, Yard & Garden

Very few things are more inviting than a crackling fire in the fireplace.

Of course, wood costs money. Increased demand has increased prices, so, it is important to shop around for the best value.

To get the greatest value from firewood, it should be well seasoned and dry. Green wood will burn, but seasoned or dry wood will burn easier and it has more heat value. Any moisture in the wood reduces the heat output because the moisture absorbs heat when it is changed to steam. To get the maximum heat, wood should be seasoned after cutting and splitting.

If you buy unseasoned wood, you will have to either season it yourself or be satisfied with less heat output.

There really is quite a difference in the heat value from various kinds of wood. All are not equally good sources of heat. The harder woods such as oak, beech or apple tend to burn more slowly and put out more heat than softer woods such as willow, birch, poplar or pine.

Of course, the harder woods weigh more than soft woods, but most wood is bought by volume rather than weight so you are paying the same for either one.

The standard measurement for firewood is a cord, a stack four feet high, four feet wide and eight feet deep, containing 128 cubic feet. The actual volume of wood in a cord is about 100 cubic feet because of the spaces between the logs.

A rick or face cord is sixteen inches wide and represents one-third of a standard cord.

In urban areas, firewood is sometimes sold by the pound or part of a ton. A face cord of mixed wood usually weighs about a ton so you can figure the price accordingly.

Buying wood by the truckload is less precise. Depending upon how the wood is stacked, the amount in a truckload can vary tremendously. If you buy a truckload of wood, you probably should specify the weight or number of cords you will expect.

When you bring your wood home, stack it in neat loose piles off the ground, preferably in sunlight. Plastic sheeting or closer stacking of top pieces will protect firewood from rain and snow.

Firewood put in a shady corner near buildings and surrounded by shrubs and other vegetation deteriorates faster than wood stored in a sunlit location. Wood stored on the ground soon decays, reducing the fuel value.

Store split pieces with split side down. Do not stack firewood against buildings because termites may attack the wood and eventually enter the building.

Storing wood for longer than one year increases insect and disease problems. Periodically check the woodpile for insects. Be especially alert for powder post beetles, bark beetles, carpenter ants and termites.

Source: David Robson, Horticulture Educator, Springfield Extension Center

September

• Overseeding & establishment (optimum time) - first week

• Fertilization (key time) - first 2 weeks

• Cultivation (aerifying, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing

• Postemergence broadleaf weed control to actively growing weeds (optimum time)

October

• Postemergence broadleaf weed control (early in month) if weeds actively growing

• Cultivation (aerifying, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing

Slugs

With the rainy weather that we've had in many parts of Illinois, slugs are very numerous and causing heavy damage. Slugs, which are shell-less snails, are usually a problem on thin-leaved plants growing in shady areas–hosta, violets and impatiens. With this summer's prolonged, heavy rainfall, slugs are also numerous in sunnier areas, feeding on a wide range of plants - including such bedding plants as petunias, chrysanthemums, daisies and lobelia. They also like lilies, daffodils, narcissus, primroses, tuberous begonias, hollyhocks, irises and strawberries.

The most common species is the gray garden slug, which is usually about 3/4 inch long but may be up to 1-1/2 inches long. Although called gray, they come in white, yellow, lavender, purple or blackish with brown specks and mottled areas. A less common species in Illinois is the spotted garden slug, which can be seven inches long but is more commonly three to five inches in length. Although small individuals tend to be dark gray to black, large ones are handsome: yellow to brown with black mottling and three rows of black spots running down the posterior half of the body.

Depending on the species, slugs live from one to six years. They lay eggs in protected areas such as under dead leaves or pieces of bark mulch. Slugs are hermaphroditic, having both male and female sex organs. A slug can mate with itself if another isn't present; more commonly, a slug both provides and receives sperm while mating with another.

Slugs have two pairs of tentacles extending off the front end of the body. The upper, longer pair are optic tentacles with eyes on the tips. There is also a shorter pair near the ground that are sensory tentacles for feeling and smelling. Near the front of the body on the right side is a hole or slit called a pneumostome, which is the opening that leads to the slug's single lung. The largest structure is the foot, which runs the length of the slug. The underside of the foot is called the sole.

At the front of the sole, under the slug's head, is a gland that produces two types of slime or mucus. One mucus is very free-flowing; the other is more thick. These two substances combine to form the slime trails that slugs are famous for. These slime trails remain in the morning and will glisten, reflecting the sunlight before they dry up. Mucus is produced in smaller quantities over the entire outside of the body. Different types of mucus are produced for moisture control, mating and defense. When attacked, a slug produces an extra-thick mucus that makes the slug hard to pick up. The defense mucus is also capable of sealing the mouths of such predators as snakes and shrews and can cause dogs and ducks to gag.

Slugs feed by using a radula, a structure in the mouth that is covered with tiny teeth, which slugs use to scrape away the surface and then the plant material underneath. This feeding mechanism causes damage to appear most commonly as holes in the leaf, although windowfeeding (when slugs eat only partly through) on the leaf is common. On some plants or in heavy numbers, slugs will eat the leaf margins. Because chewing insects usually eat the leaf margins, large holes in the leaves are a good clue that slugs are present. You can verify that slugs are responsible by checking for their presence at night or on foggy mornings, or by searching the ground beneath the plants. Slime trails on the plant are also good scouting clues.

Slugs need a moist environment to survive and they feed on decaying organic matter. The best long-term control involves reducing this supply. Under less rainy conditions, spacing plants farther apart or pruning them back allows better air circulation and creates drier conditions that are difficult for slugs. Eliminating fallen leaves, bark mulch and other dead organic material will reduce slug numbers by reducing food sources.

Slug baits containing metaldehyde or mesurol are effective for controlling slugs. Mesurol can be used only around ornamental plants, not edible ones. Be careful using slug baits where dogs or cats are present. Slug-bait poisoning is a major source of calls to the National Animal Poison Control Center located in Urbana. Copper strips that extend an inch or more below and above the soil line will keep out slugs. The copper apparently generates an electrical charge that is large enough to deter slugs.

Most other slug remedies are not reliably effective. The mucus that slugs produce allows them to cross a razor-blade edge without harm, making the use of sharp gravel, broken glass and cinders of dubious value. Beer in shallow dishes is effective sometimes, although my experience is that this method allows the harvest of slugs but doesn't actually control them. Diatomaceous earth is not very effective in the damp environment that slugs inhabit. Salt, lime and other chemicals may disrupt the soil's fertility until nothing will grow, which defeats the purpose. Because slugs and snails are mollusks (very distantly related to insects and other arthropods), insecticides are not effective.

Source: Dr. Philip Nixon, Entomology, University of Illinois

Illinois Fresh
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/fresh/
Your guide to U-Pick Farms, roadside markets and Farmers' Markets.

Asian Long-Horned Beetle Invades Chicago
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/beetle/
Check out this University of Illinois Extension site for Asian Long-Horned Beetle information and pictures.

The Miracle of Fall
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/hort/fallcolor.html
Visit this University of Illinois Extension feature on fall foliage colors.

Many Retail Store Employees Lack Training on Pesticides

If you've been relying on the garden department employees at your local discount, hardware and building supply stores to recommend appropriate pesticides, maybe you should be asking first how much training they have received. A survey conducted recently in Illinois has revealed that only 34% of about 600 retail stores with garden departments gave any training to their employees with regard to pesticide use - and that about 50% of the employees who did receive such training considered that training inadequate. (Typically, the training was provided either by store personnel or by chemical company product representatives; just 12% of trainees attended school or college classes on pesticide use.)

Given that most retail employees lack any formal training on pesticides, where do they obtain detailed information upon which they can base recommendations to consumers? Based on the results of the Illinois survey, they rely heavily on the Ortho Problem Solver and product labels. Only a few of the survey respondents consulted university or USDA literature.

Reference: George F. Czapar (University of Illinois, Springfield Extension Center, P.O. Box 8199, Springfield, IL 62791), Marc P. Curry and John E. Lloyd, "Survey of Integrated Pest Management Training Needs Among Retail Store Employees in Illinois," Journal of Soil & Water Conservation 53 (1), first Quarter 1998, 31-33. (Soil & Water Conservation Society, 7515 N. E. Ankeny Rd., Ankeny, IA 50021.)

"Military Grade" Plant Tags

No, they aren't dog tags! Here's what the distributor (phone 888-698-9348) has to say about "myTyes":

MyTye, the same quick, inexpensive and patented identification and security tie used by utilities, banks and the military, is simple to use., It has a paper-covered tab and any pen or permanent marker that writes on paper works on a myTye. The eight inch long stem is then looped around the trunk or a branch where it can't slide off. It closes like a normal cable tie, so no knotting, tangling, scissors or pliers are needed. And because it's much wider than a string or wire and doesn't have to be tight to stay closed, it doesn't cut into tender bark or stems. And once closed, it can't be opened...you can be sure it will be there when you return...

On the technical side, myTyes are UV-resistant polyethylene (surviving at least seven years outside in Florida), cold-weather-tested in Michigan, chalking-stabilized for five to seven years, depending on color and heat-stabilized (-68°F to +185°F). And they're tough: 2,500 psi tensile strength at breaking...So, accidental removal of a properly tightened tie is virtually impossible. In addition, myTyes meet or exceed the new U.S. military standards for 100% tamper-evident lead-free seals...they're even FDA certified for use with food.

MyTyes are inexpensive in retail packs of 10, 20, 50 or 100 and in bulk packs of 250. They are available in four standard colors: discreet black, blue or green and attention-grabbing orange.

Fall Webworm

Fall webworm is numerous in central Illinois and is present throughout the state. In northern Illinois, all of the webs should be small enough to control by pruning out the web. Remember that this caterpillar stays within the web to feed, so pruning off the webs at any time of day will eliminate almost all of the caterpillars associated with them. In the central and southern areas of the state, insecticide spraying may be a better option than pruning on big webs where major branches are webbed on smaller trees. Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki (Dipel, Thuricide and others) and various chemical insecticides will be effective, particularly if spray pressure is high enough to get inside the web. Fall webworm spreads out its egg hatch over several weeks, so young colonies with small webs will still be produced for at least the next month throughout the state. Keep the pruners handy.

Ash Flower Gall

Ash flower gall is numerous in areas of Chicago. Many of the galls appear as fuzzy green balls one-half to one inch in diameter. Some of the galls have already turned brown. There's really nothing that can be done at this time, but the brown galls will persist into the winter and become very noticeable after leaf drop in the fall. These galls are caused by mites that attack the male flowers. They do not affect tree health.

Annual White Grub Update

Annual white grub larvae are present throughout the state. Scout now for grubs in irrigated turf in areas where non-watered turf was dry and brownish in late June and early July. Usually at least ten to twelve grubs per square foot are needed to cause turf damage later. However, three to five grubs per square foot may be enough to attract raccoons, skunks and birds if their damage has been a problem in the past. If numbers warranting treatment are found, use shorter-acting insecticides such as trichlorfon (Dylox), bendiocarb (Turcam, Intercept) or diazinon.

Make Compost Now

Compost can be made from leaves, straw, grass clippings, manure and any other disease-free waste vegetable matter. Adding compost to your seedbed adds nutrients to the soil that will help the vegetables planted there grow faster and stronger. Compost also will help improve the tilth of the soil, making it looser and easier to work. For a free composting booklet send a SASE (.32 cents) to Compost, U of I Extension, Chicago HS for Ag Sciences, 3807 W 111th St, Chicago, IL 60355.

Lawn Care

September is definitely a key month for lawn care. Practices such as seeding, sodding, aerifying, dethatching and fertilizing can all be done in September. While not all these activities can be done at once, chances are whatever your lawn needs can be done in September.

Bulbs

September is also a good month for planting. Plant spring flowering bulbs for lots of color next spring. Proper drainage is perhaps the main secret to success with spring bulbs such as tulips, crocus, daffodils and hyacinths. Adding organic matter is the best way to improve heavy clay soils. Choose healthy bulbs and plant at the suggested depth for the species. For a free factsheet on planting bulbs, send a SASE (.32 cents) to: Planting Bulbs, U of I Extension, Chicago HS for Ag Sciences, 3807 W 111th St, Chicago, IL 60355.

Trees, Shrubs and Evergreens

Many trees, shrubs and evergreens can be planted in early fall. Check with local nurseries and garden centers to see what's available for fall planting. Be sure to have a planting plan, however, rather than just putting in some trees that "look nice" or are on sale but soon grow into a disastrous landscape design. Once planted, be sure to water as needed, especially if the weather is dry, to help assure good root development this fall.

September Outdoors

Sow a fall cover crop at least 4-6 weeks before hard frosts. Annual rye can be sown at a rate of 1-2 pounds per 1000 square feet.

Have your soil tested. Soil testing labs are less busy in the fall. Call us for a soil-testing booklet. 773-233-0476.

Start a compost pile. Call us at 773-233-0476 to receive a free compost booklet.

Start worm composting indoors. One thousand worms will decompose 2-3 pounds of food scraps per week. Call us for a free factsheet at 773-233-0476.

Harvest winter squash. Cut with a piece of stem attached. Discard any with soft spots. Will keep for 3-4 months stored in a cool basement.

Plant radishes, lettuce, kale and spinach for fall harvest.

Take your family to a nearby orchard to pick apples. Do not pull apples off the tree; jerking the apples will leave a hole in the fruit; decay will develop. Place apples gently into container when harvesting; never throw them or you will bruise the apple. Visit our Apples & More website.

Harvest sunflower seeds when seeds are firm. Cut the head leaving 8-12 inches of stem. Hang heads in a dry area to finish ripening.

Herbs can be dried in the microwave. Place herbs between two paper towels and microwave for one minute. Let cool and check if leaves are crisp. If not, microwave a few seconds until crisp. Store in jars in dark, cool place.

Use an old plastic laundry basket to harvest vegetables. After harvesting spray vegetables with hose. Avoid messy clean-up in the kitchen.

September Ornamental

Plant pansies and ornamental kale as weather cools.

Divide daylilies. Call us for the available factsheet.

Seed bare spots in your lawn in early September.

Plant trees and shrubs. Call us for the available factsheet.

Plant lily bulbs for spectacular blooms next year. Cover plantings with mulch after ground has frozen.

Transplant trees & shrubs. Call us for available factsheet.

Save seeds from mature, non-hybrid flower heads. Place seeds on newspaper. Turn often as they dry. Place in glass jars and store in cool place (40-50°F).

Plant chrysanthemums in containers for fall color.

Paint wooden fences. Cool, dry, fall days are ideal for painting.

Control broadleaf weeds in your lawn such as chickweed, clover, dandelions and plantain.

Make original stationery by enclosing plants with interesting foliage, shapes and colors between two transparent sheets to protect the bed of the copier. Duplicate on a copying machine like any other document.

September Indoors

Force spring flowering bulbs indoors for holiday blooms. Call us for available factsheet.

Wash windows so indoor plants will receive maximum light during winter.

Bring houseplants back into indoor environment before temperatures go below 55°F. Drastic changes in environment for houseplants can cause leaf drop.

Check houseplants for insects and diseases before bringing back indoors. Isolate them from other houseplants for 2-3 weeks.

October Outdoors

Protect plants when frost is predicted. Keep tarp, plastic, blankets and cardboard boxes handy.

Fry or pickle small green tomatoes that will not ripen.

Harvest tomatoes that show pink; they should ripen indoors. Wrap individually in newspaper or spread them in a single layer and cover with newspaper.

Harvest pumpkins before a hard frost leaving 4-6 inches of the stem attached. Do not carry by stem. Free listing of Pick Your Own pumpkin farms available.

Cut back chives and pot up for indoors. Give them a month of cold temperatures and bring indoors.

Remove weeds from the garden. They are a great place for insects to overwinter.

Dig up vegetable garden after killing frosts and incorporate 2-4 inch layer of organic matter.

Pull up the hot pepper plants and hang them to dry. They store well in a cool, dark place.

October Ornamental

Check out the magnificent fall colors at the Morton Arboretum and Cook County forest preserves. Check out the University of Illinois Extension's Miracle of Fall website for places to see fall color in the Midwest.

Plant spring flowering bulbs. Most bulbs can be planted until the ground freezes. Call us for available factsheet.

Harvest gladiolus corms before the first frost.

Avoid buying tulip bulbs that have soft spots or bruises.

Plant tulips in groups of one color for a showy effect.

Rake up leaves, twigs and fruit from crabapple trees to reduce apple scab.

Fertilize trees as leaves drop. Nutrients will be used by tree to develop stronger root systems.

Dig up dahlias after hard frost. Cut back the tops. Dry them in warm sun for two days and brush off soil. Dust with fungicide and store in vermiculite.

Remove leaves from the lawn. Leaves left on lawn will kill underlying grass.

Continue to mow grass as long as it is growing.

Hand raking those leaves is great exercise. One hour of raking will burn 300-500 calories.

Harvest ornamental grasses for dried arrangements.

Move garden chemicals to area where temperatures do not drop below 40°. Keep them out of reach of children and pets.

Clean up leaves from around roses and peonies. Leaves can harbor diseases and provide a place for insects to overwinter.

Emerging leaves from fall planted spring flowering bulbs is not unusual. The bulbs will produce flowers in the spring.

Drain plastic garden hoses before storing away for the winter. They will crack if allowed to freeze with water in them.

October Indoors

Plant wheatgrass indoors. It grows like grass. Great project for kids. Wheatgrass is available from Gourmet Greens, 198 Dodge Road, Chester, VT 05143. Write for ordering information.

Plant grapefruit or orange seed in potting soil. Makes a nice foliage plant.

Reduce watering and fertilization of houseplants as days get shorter.

Refrigerator Storage

September is National Food Safety Education Month. It has been sponsored by the restaurant and food safety industry since 1995. The primary goal is to educate consumers about how to handle and prepare food properly in order to prevent foodborne diseases. So let's talk about refrigerator storage of food.

Refrigerator storage of food is designed to keep foods fresh and safe for a limited amount of time. The cool temperature helps to keep the food fresh and inhibit the growth of most bacteria, mold and yeast.

Food spoilage microorganisms can still grow in the refrigerator. You have probably seen it growing. For instance, when vegetables in the vegetable bin turn to black slime, this is deterioration caused by microorganisms. Cool temperatures slow the growth of mold, yeast and bacteria, but there is a limit to the length of time various foods will stay fresh in the refrigerator.

Eventually, any food will begin to look, smell and taste bad and should be discarded immediately upon developing any signs of spoilage. Set the refrigerator dial so that the internal temperature of the refrigerator remains at about 40°F. The control should be adjusted seasonally.

During hot summer days the dial will need to be set at a colder setting than during the winter. When the control settings are not adjusted, frozen milk or lettuce may result as the outdoor temperature drops. A refrigerator thermometer can be purchased and hung from the center shelf of the refrigerator to help monitor temperatures.

Your food will be fresher longer if you follow these storage guidelines:

• Always cover food in the refrigerator. Use containers with lids, plastic wrap, aluminum foil or plastic bags to keep foods from drying out.

• Place meat, poultry, fish and other seafood in the coldest part of the refrigerator. This is usually on the top shelf, toward the back.

• Store eggs in the original carton on a shelf, not on the door, which is too warm.

• Defrost meat on the lower shelves of the refrigerator with a plate under the package to catch drips. Never defrost on the kitchen counter.

• Wipe up spills as they happen. Remove old food and check freshness dates on condiments and dairy products.

For more information on how long to store foods in the refrigerator, call the USDA's Meat & Poultry Hotline toll free at 1-800-535-4555 from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Eastern time, Monday through Friday. Or call the FDA's Seafood Hotline toll free at 1-800-FDA-4010.

Flower Power–Edible Flowers

Have you ever eaten a flower? Think before you answer. Did you know that an artichoke is a flower? The top portion of broccoli is actually flower buds. Given time each will burst into a bright yellow flower, which is why they are called florets. Flowers have been eaten for hundreds of years and they are growing in popularity.

Like mushrooms, some flowers are edible while others are just plain toxic. So, before you rush to the flowerbed and start grazing, let's separate the good from the bad. Although flowers are not deadly, like wild mushrooms can be, some can cause very unpleasant side effects.

The following short list is of edible flowers that are delicious, versatile and commonly grown in flower gardens throughout the country. They range in flavor from spicy to sweet and minty.

Borage (Borago officinalis)

The purple star shaped flower of this herb is slightly sweet and cucumber-like in flavor. Traditionally the flower is used to flavor wine drinks, often frozen in ice cubes then floated in summer drinks.

Calendula (Calendula officinalis)

Also known as pot marigold, orange, white or yellow blossoms are mild, slightly peppery in flavor. The orange petals are often substituted for saffron, which is extremely expensive. Petals must be bruised before they give off any color. Used to flavor and color rice dishes, as garnish or in salads.

Chrysanthemum (Dendranthema grandiflorum)

The "garden mum" is a result of hundreds of years of breeding and selection in Europe, Asia and North America. In Victorian language of flowers, red mums signify love, white means truth, while yellow mums imply slighted love. They range in taste from faint peppery to mild cauliflower; blanch first and then scatter the petals on a salad. The leaves can be used to flavor vinegar. Always remove the bitter flower base and use petals only.

Chive flowers (Allium schoeonoprasum)

The flower is globe-shaped and light purple with a powerful pungent onion or chive flavor. Use the flower by breaking into individual florets. Use to flavor cooked dishes like potatoes and eggs.

Daylily (Hemerocallis spp.)

There are tens of thousands of hybrid daylilies and new cultivars are introduced each year. They range in size from tiny miniatures to 4-1/2 inches in diameter. Orange, yellow, white, red – they come in a rainbow of colors. The bud as well as the open flower can be eaten. The taste of the bud has been compared to green beans. The flower has a milder flavor. In general, the dark colors seem to be slightly bitter while the pale yellows and orange flowers are sweeter in flavor. Dried daylilies are an ingredient in Chinese hot and sour soup and it is delicious.

Nasturtium (Trioaeikyn najus)

Nasturtiums have a spicy, peppery flavor. Both the brightly colored flowers and the leaves are edible. They add interest and flavor to salads, pasta and meat dishes. The peppery leaves are often used to flavor vinegar as well.

The list goes on, hollyhocks, honeysuckle, marigold, pansies, rose petals, squash blossoms, daisies, chrysanthemums and so on. There are several books on the market to guide you in selection.

Eat only flowers that have been grown organically. Florists use chemicals to enhance the beauty of flowers; these flowers are not meant to be eaten. Also, do not harvest flowers from the roadside, toxins from exhaust fumes are sometimes concentrated in the flowers.

Eat flowers only when you are positive they are edible. Do not eat flowers from garden centers or nurseries as they are often treated with pesticides. If you have hay fever, asthma or allergies, do not eat flowers. Wash flowers first, remove pistils and stamens from flowers before eating, or adding to foods, eat petals only. Remember, flavor changes as color and variety change from any one flower. Bon Appetit!

For further information or reading, here is a list:

Edible Flowers: Desserts & Drinks, Cathy Wilkinson Barash, Golden Colorado: Fulcrum, 1997.

Edible Flowers: From Garden to Palate, Golden, Colorado: Fulcrum, 1993.

Flowers in the Kitchen: A Bouquet of Tasty Recipes, Susan Belsinger, Loveland, Colorado: Interweave Press, 1991.

Edible Flowers: A Kitchen Companion, Kitty Morse, Berkeley, California: Ten Speed Press, 1995.

Forgotten Art of Flower Cookery, Leona W. Smith, Gretna, Louisiana: Pelican, Inc., 1985.

There seems to be a lot of debate of the pre-washed salad greens situation. The staff of a major newspaper collected different types of pre-cut, pre-washed vegetables including salad greens for laboratory analysis for bacteria. The result was shocking. Several of the pre-washed packages of produce contained high levels of bacteria.

What the reporters failed to mention was that most of the bacteria found were harmless, because produce, i.e., lettuce, carrots and the like, are grown in the soil, therefore we cannot expect them to be bacteria free.

Washing in cool water actually loosens and removes most of the bacteria on produce. There are harmless microorganisms living there as well. These harmless bacteria actually compete with pathogens for nutrients, thus keeping our produce safe.

The next time you are in your supermarket, look at the produce section carefully. Any bulk lettuce displayed in open bins or boxes is exposed to the elements. People touch it, they sneeze on it, things fall on it from the air and it should be washed before eating, even if the box says pre-washed.

The bagged vegetables and lettuce have been problem-free. These items are washed and sealed in plastic bags. They are actually cleaner than we could get them at home, according to tests conducted by the USDA and the Center for Disease Control and Prevention.

The words to look for on pre-washed plastic bags of greens are "washed" and "ready to eat." Large companies use special techniques to maintain high quality and safety standards. Don't be fooled by words like "fresh," "natural" and "organically grown," it does not mean the produce is washed. In fact, there is no reason to believe that such packaging carries pre-washed greens.

Foodborne Illness: What Consumers Need to Know

Foodborne illness often shows itself as flu-like symptoms such as nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, or fever, so many people may not recognize that the illness is caused by bacteria or other pathogens on food.

Thousands of types of bacteria are naturally present in our environment. Not all bacteria cause disease in humans. For example, some bacteria are used beneficially in making cheese and yogurt.

Bacteria that cause disease are called "pathogens." When certain pathogens enter the food supply, they can cause foodborne illness. Only a few types cause millions of cases of foodborne illness each year. Most cases of foodborne illness can be prevented. Proper cooking or processing of food destroys bacteria.

Age and physical condition place some persons at higher risk than others, no matter what type of bacteria is implicated. Infants, pregnant women, the elderly and people with compromised immune systems are at greatest risk from any pathogen. Some persons may become ill after ingesting only a few harmful bacteria; others may remain symptom free after ingesting thousands.

How Bacteria Get in Food

Bacteria may be present on products when you purchase them. Plastic-wrapped boneless chicken breasts and ground meat, for example, were once part of live chickens or cattle. Raw meat, poultry, seafood and eggs are not sterile. Neither is produce such as lettuce, tomatoes, sprouts and melons.

Foods, including safely cooked, ready-to-eat foods, can become cross-contaminated with bacteria transferred from raw products, meat juices or other contaminated products or poor personal hygiene.

The "Danger Zone"

Bacteria multiply rapidly between 40° and 140°F. To keep food out of this "danger zone," keep cold food cold and hot food hot.

• Store food in the refrigerator (40°F or below) or freezer (0°F or below).

• Cook food to 160°F (145°F for roasts, steaks and chops of beef, veal and lamb).

• Maintain hot cooked food at 140°F or higher.

• Reheat cooked food to 165°F.

In Case of Suspected Foodborne Illness

Follow these general guidelines:

1. Preserve the evidence. If a portion of the suspect food is available wrap it securely, mark 'DANGER" and refrigerate it. Save all the packing materials, such as cans or cartons. Write down the food type, the date, time consumed and when the onset of symptoms occurred. Save any identical unopened products.

2. Seek treatment as necessary. If the victim is in an "at risk" group, seek medical care immediately. Likewise, if symptoms persist or are severe (such as bloody diarrhea, excessive nausea and vomiting, or high temperature).

3. 3Call the local health department if the suspect food was served at a large gathering, from a restaurant or other food service facility, or if it is a commercial product.

4. Call the USDA Meat and Poultry Hotline (number below) if the suspect food is a USDA - inspected product and you have all the packaging.

For More Information

USDA Meat and Poultry Hotline (Washington, D.C): 1-800-535-4555 or 1-202-720-3333 or 1-800-256-7072 (TTY)

FSIS Web site: http://www.fsis.usda.gov

FSIS Fast Fax: 1-800-238-8281

FDA Consumer Food Information Line: 1-800-FDA-4010

FDA Web site: http://www.fda.gov

For a free copy of the Fight BAC! Brochure send a SASE (32¢ postage) to: Fight BAC, University of Illinois, 3807 West 111th Street, Chicago, IL., 60655

Besides being recognized as a popular snack dip, salsa can now be officially identified as a vegetable. The U. S. Department of Agriculture recently recognized commercial salsa as a vegetable for the National School Lunch Program. The change in policy came at the request of schools in the west and southwest that wanted to make lunches more appealing while maintaining a nutritious balance.

Salsa, which usually has no fat or cholesterol, (and little or no added sugar), has been considered a vegetable under the lunch program only if schools served their own recipe. With this new ruling from USDA, commercial salsa can now be counted as a vegetable as well.

Source: Nutrition Week: Community Nutrition, Institute, July 24, 1998

Cooking With Sun-Dried Tomatoes

In order to sun dry tomatoes, you need ideal weather conditions. Long, hot, sunny summer days with a gentle breeze and low humidity. Sounds like Chicago? We may have one day per year that meets that description, but no one expects it and it probably won't happen when our tomatoes are ready to harvest. So what can we do? Dry the tomatoes in a dehydrator or the oven.

Now that you have dried them, what do you do with them? There are some wonderful ways to use dried tomatoes. Remember, once dried, tomatoes take on a completely different texture and flavor from their ripe counterparts. They become rich tasting, intensely tomato flavored, and raisin-like in texture.

• Use kitchen shears to snip them into pieces and drop into soups, stews and casseroles. Use as a topping for homemade pizza too.

• Enhance your flavored olive oil by adding pieces of 4 tablespoons of dried tomatoes to 1/2 cup of virgin olive oil, 1/2 cup feta cheese chunks and add l tablespoon chopped fresh parsley, basil or oregano or combination. Serve with toasted or grilled bread chunks. Serve at room temperature and refrigerate leftovers for 2 to 3 days. Makes a great appetizer.

• Rehydrate tomatoes by covering with warm water. Allow them to set at room temperature for 30 minutes. Drain and add to a tossed salad. Save the liquid or add to cooked vegetables.

• Add dried pieces to cooked vegetables during the last 5 minutes of cooking. Try adding them to green beans, cabbage or green peas.

The Best Way to Reduce Your Blood Cholesterol

A combination of exercise and a healthy diet instead of one or the other is likely to produce more effective results in reducing your blood cholesterol level. High blood cholesterol is a primary risk factor in the development of heart disease. Over a one-year period, researchers monitored the cholesterol levels of 377 men and women aged 30 through 64.

The subjects had moderately high levels of LDL (bad cholesterol) and low levels of HDL (good cholesterol). The subjects were divided and placed into varying programs; one quarter in a diet and exercise program; one quarter in just a diet program; another quarter in just an exercise program; and a control group that did not change their diet or exercise habits at all.

Participants in the diet/exercise and diet groups showed decreases in body weight, cholesterol and fat intake, while the exercise and control groups remained unchanged. In addition, men and women in the diet/exercise group had significantly lower LDL levels than the control group. The men on the diet/exercise versus the exercise only had reduced LDL levels compared to the men on the diet only program, which showed no significant change. In conclusion: lifestyle changes (diet and exercise) are recommended in order to live longer, healthier lives.

Resource: The New England Journal of Medicine: Vol. 339, #1, July 2, 1998; pp.12-20

• Buttermilk contains only one gram of fat per 1/2 cup serving. Originally it was the liquid left after milk was churned into butter. After hours of churning, the butter became a solid and when it ws removed the "buttermilk" left behind was almost fat free. Natural bacteria in the air gave it a tangy flavor and thick consistency. Today's buttermilk is made from a particular bacteria culture which produces a similar-tasting product. Despite its name, buttermilk is still virtually free of fat and actually quite healthy for you.

• Grapefruit contains about two-thirds as much Vitamin C per ounce as oranges. Half a medium sized grapefruit supplies about 70% of the daily RDA for Vitamin C. Pink and red varieties also contain a modest amount of beta carotene and though they may taste sweeter than the white varieties, they have the same number of calories - 35 to 45 per half fruit. Source: University of California Berkeley Wellness Letter, Volume 13, Issue 3.

• A combination of wine and chocolate may actually work together to lower blood cholesterol, according to an article in Nutrition Today (Volume 33, #3, May/June, 1998). Cocoa butter, which is the fat in chocolate, does not contain or produce cholesterol and it has a certain amount of phenols that may help prevent heart disease. Wine also contains a certain amount of phenols, 210 mg per glass, hence a pairing of some red wine with a bit of chocolate could be beneficial to the heart. A 1.5 ounce of chocolate contains 105 mg of phenol and a mug of hot chocolate made with 2 tablespoons of cocoa has 146 mg. For best results, dark chocolate is recommended because it has less fat than sweeter varieties like milk chocolate.