University of Illinois Extension Cook County
The Green Line
http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/greenline/
For more information, please contact:
Cook County Unit
Headquarters Office
4801 Southwick Drive
Suite 100
Matteson, IL 60443
Phone: 708-481-0111 / Fax: 708-481-4151
E-mail: cook_hdq@extension.uiuc.edu
The Thanksgiving weekend kicks off the Christmas tree hunting season. Most area cut-your-own tree farms will be opening, along with many retail lots. While all are evergreens, all Christmas trees are not the same.
For example, firs, which have short, flat needles, make up one of the popular groups of Christmas trees. Balsam fir is a traditional favorite, with excellent fragrance and form. Fraser fir, which features excellent color and fragrance, has been increasing in popularity. Douglas fir, not actually a true fir, also has visual appeal and good needle retention.
Another group of Christmas trees are the pines, the most commonly planted species of Christmas trees in the North Central United States. Pines have longer needles than the other species and typically appear "full" because of the arrangement of needles and branches. Scotch or Scots pine is popular and very common in tree lots and on cut-your-own farms. As with most trees, a number of cultivars are available, varying in color, needle length and overall appearance.
Other pines include white, red and Austrian pine. White pine has good color and soft needles. Branches are relatively weak and do not support heavy loads of ornaments, but it still is an excellent tree and does not readily dry out indoors. Red and Austrian pines have longer needles, with red usually being a more open tree and Austrian having very stiff needles.
Finally, spruces have short needles and branches that hold loads of decorations well. White spruce and Norway spruce have been traditional favorites, but needle retention is poor for both once the tree is cut and brought inside. Colorado blue spruce, a common landscape tree, has increased in popularity as a Christmas tree. This species has the best needle retention of the spruces, with the needles being rather stiff and branches rather rigid.
When choosing this year's tree, survey the family and then survey the Christmas tree farm or retail lot. With all of these choices, you can't go wrong! Get out early to take advantage of more favorable weather and better selection than what may be the case later in December.
Source: Bruce Spangenberg, Extension Educator, Horticulture, University of Illinois Extension
Christmas Tree Farms
Plan a family outing and fun day by going to a Xmas Tree Farm to pick out your own special tree. Call our office at 773-233-0476 to receive our current listing of Cut Your Own Xmas Tree Farms in the Chicagoland and neighboring areas. You can also find out where the farms are as well as a lot of other information about Christmas trees and traditions on our website at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/trees/
Caring for Poinsettias & Christmas Trees
Holiday traditions in homes and offices often include poinsettias and Christmas trees. Here's information on how to keep these traditional favorites fresh and festive for the holiday season.
For festive Poinsettias, start by purchasing fresh, healthy plants that have been cared for properly at the point of purchase. Probably the biggest enemy of poinsettias in homes and offices is fluctuating temperatures. Keep plants out of warm drafts, such as from heat ducts or radiators and away from cold drafts of entrances. An optimum temperature range would be 60 to 68 degrees, temperatures above 75 degrees can cause decline. Another related problem is excessively dry air.
Poinsettias commonly face overwatering, which will kill the roots. Roots of poinsettias, along with all other plants, need to have air. Don't overwater poinsettias; wait until the soil surface begins to dry slightly before watering. Don't let it completely dry out and become hard, however. Either remove foil wraps from the pot or place holes in it so water can escape.
Finally, try to place poinsettias near a bright window, but not in direct sunlight. Move it at night if a cold draft is likely to occur.
For many years, the poinsettia was considered to be poisonous. Extensive tests have proven this to be false. However, as with most plants, a child or pet could still have stomach distress if they were to eat poinsettias.
Purchasing a fresh tree is critical when dealing with live trees. Cut your own tree and you are assured freshness. When purchasing trees off the retail lot, avoid those dropping lots of needles easily. Once the tree is home and ready to set up, cut off an inch or so from the bottom of the trunk, place the tree into the stand and fill the stand with water immediately. Never let the water level go below the cut surface on the bottom of the trunk.
What's best to put in the stand to keep trees fresh longer? The answer...plain water. Check the level frequently and add more as needed. You don't need to add anything else. Another very important point is to locate trees away from heat sources and be sure all lights are in good working condition.
Source: Bruce Spangenberg, Extension Educator, Horticulture, University of Illinois Extension
Constructing a Holiday Wreath
A wreath is an attractive, easy-to-make decoration for the upcoming holiday season. Materials that are needed to construct a wreath include pruning shears, scissors, wreath frame, No. 22 or 24 gauge florist wire, wire cutter and evergreen branches. Decorative materials, such as ribbon (bows), pine cones, holly, various fruits and ornaments, may be used to finish the wreath.
When selecting a wreath frame, individuals can choose from box wire, crimped wire, styrofoam and straw frames. An ordinary wire coat hanger may also be fashioned into a small wreath frame. Frames, florist wire and other materials can be purchased at craft or hobby stores.
Evergreen branches (greens) can be obtained from the home landscape. A small amount of judicious pruning won't harm the trees and shrubs. Greens may also be purchased from garden centers, florist shops and Christmas tree lots or farms. Additional materials, such as cones, holly and bittersweet can be purchased or collected outdoors.
A 15-inch diameter wreath frame is ideal for most home decorations. Cut the greens into 4 to 6 inch sections. Begin by firmly attaching the end of the wire roll to the frame. Place a small bundle of greens on the frame; then fasten the base of the twigs tightly to the frame with 2 or 3 turns of the wire. Position the second bundle of greens so as to cover the base of the first group. Continue this procedure around the frame, placing the groups close together to produce a thick, full wreath. Tuck the base of the final bundle of greens beneath the foliage of the first group and fasten it to the frame. Decorate the wreath with a bow, cones, ornaments, etc. Wire each item separately and fasten it to the frame. Finally attach a wire hanger to the top of the wreath frame. The wreath is now ready for hanging.
When constructing wreaths, use only fresh greens. Needles on old material will be dry and brittle. Fresh material will have a strong fragrance and pliable needles. A wreath that possesses a strong evergreen fragrance has a special appeal when decorating indoors. Strongly scented greens include juniper and pine . Spruce, fir and yew are only lightly scented. Most wreaths are constructed of mixed greens; however, make sure their color and texture are compatible.
Wreaths hung outdoors should remain fresh for 3 to 4 weeks. The average life of an indoor wreath, however, is about 7 to 10 days. Indoor wreaths should be promptly removed when they become dry. The life of an indoor wreath can be prolonged by hanging it up only during special holiday occasions. Carefully place the wreath in a plastic bag and store in a cool location, such as a garage, during the remaining time.
Source: Iowa State University
'99 All-America Selection Vegetable Winners
Gardeners have relied upon the AAS new varieties because they perform in the garden. All AAS Winners have been tested in garden plots or trial sites across North America and only those with superior garden performance have earned the AAS Award. Look for and ask for the AAS Winners by variety name.
Squash F1 Hybrid 'Eight Ball'
Unlike the billiard ball, this 'Eight Ball' tastes great and is the first round summer squash with dark zucchini green skin. Improved for earliness, gardeners can harvest round baby squash in about 5 to 6 weeks. Because of the improved compact habit, even gardeners with limited space can grow 'Eight Ball' plants. Plants grow about 3 feet wide. This may be the first squash that you can't have too many of. Scoop out the inside and use the squash as a bowl for serving salads or dips.
Pumpkin 'Wee-B-Little'
This true miniature orange pumpkin is a totally unique size weighing about 8 to 16 ounces. It is a typical, round pumpkin shape, perfect for interior fall decorations or the right size for small children to handle. Easy to grow from seed, 'Wee-B-Little' plants are a bush habit easier to fit into small space flower or vegetable gardens. Plants spread only 6 to 8 feet. Expect mature pumpkins in about 120 days from sowing pumpkin seeds. The whole family will enjoy growing 'Wee-B-Little' pumpkins.
Watermelon F1 Hybrid 'New Queen'
'New Queen' is a unique, gourmet watermelon with bright orange, sweet flesh. The sweet flavor and crisp texture was noted by AAS judges. Easy to grow from seed or plants, 'New Queen' is early to mature in about 75 days form seed or about 63 days from transplanting. The strong vigorous vines need space in the garden since they can spread up to 9 feet. 'New Queen' melons are icebox size weighing about 5 to 6-1/2 pounds. If you like your melons sweet and colorful, 'New Queen' must be in your garden this summer.
Before you begin designing your bird garden, be sure to visit several nearby natural areas, such as parks and wildlife sanctuaries. These will give you a sense of what kinds of plants make up the natural bird habitat in your area. Take notes on which species grow in these natural places and how the plant communities are structured - how they form vertical layers, for example, and how some plants occur in large drifts. Re-creating a similar type of growth using species native to your area is the key to a successful bird garden.
Following are nine tips on how to design a garden that appeals to both birds and people.
1. Limit the size of your lawn. Across the country, people are gradually replacing the monotonous green of the lawn with more natural plant communities closely mimicking the prairies or woodlands that existed before suburbia altered the American landscape. Such habitats are more interesting and much kinder to backyard birds.
2. Re-create the layers of plant growth found in local natural areas. Be sure to mimic the vertical layers of nearby native plant communities when designing your bird garden. In forested regions, a handy rule of thumb is to plant tall trees along the periphery of your property; a bit closer to the house, plant understory trees, then large shrubs, small shrubs and, closer still, groundcovers such as bunch grasses and wildflowers. If you live in a prairie region, you will have some success attracting wild birds by keeping the lawn in grass and planting a few shrubs that the birds will use as singing posts.
3. Select plants with an eye to providing nutritional foods during different seasons. Different birds require different kinds of foods in different seasons. During the rigorous chick-rearing days, for example, parent birds get the energy they need by feeding on sweet fruits such as blackberries, mulberries and wild cherries. Fall migrants (thrushes, vireos and warblers) require fatty fruits such as flowering dogwood, spicebush and mapleleaf viburnum to build fat reserves for their long journey. Wintering birds (finches, sparrows and waxwings) need abundant, persistent fruits such as those of conifers, bayberry and sumacs to help them survive sub-freezing temperatures.
4. Plant small trees and shrubs in same species clumps. This is necessary for pollination of shrubs with separate male and female plants, such as hollies and mulberries. Even for species with flowers of both sexes on the same plant, planting in clumps helps boost fertility and therefore fruit yields. Clumps also benefit birds by providing highly visible, massed displays of fruit.
5. Provide at least one clump of conifers. Birds find shelter in evergreen conifers during storms and winter weather. They also are preferred roosting (sleeping) and nesting sites.
6. Leave vines or plant them. Vines such as Virginia creeper, wild grape and greenbrier provide birds with perches, nesting places and, in some cases, abundant fruit crops.
7. Leave some leaf litter for the birds. This creates feeding places for ground feeding birds such as robins and other thrushes.
8. Use pesticides sparingly. Some pesticides harm birds directly. Others kill or contaminate insects on which birds feed.
9. Provide nest boxes. This is the simplest way to increase the variety of birds nesting on your property. In all, 48 species are known to raise young in nest boxes, including bluebirds, tree swallows and purple martins.
Ergonomically Designed Wheelbarrow
This one will save your back during loading, moving and unloading. The Slide & Glide has a large diameter bicycle wheel in the front, a large, flat loading platform in the middle and handles at nearly waist-height in the rear. The maximum load rating is 250 pounds; unloaded weight is 45 pounds. The price is $149.95 plus shipping and handling (Florida residents must add 6% sales tax) from Slide and Glide Inc., 3403 Ehrlich Rd., Tampa, FL 33618, phone 813-968-9045.
Lyme Disease Vaccine "80% Effective"
Gardeners who worry about tick-borne Lyme disease soon will be able to greatly reduce their chances of infection by being inoculated with "LYMErix," a new vaccine developed by SmithKline Beecham. The vaccine has been tested on several thousand individuals, with an estimated 80% protection rate. For more information, you should consult a physician. Reference: Anonymous, "Lyme Vaccine Nears Approval," Nursery Management & Production 14(8), August 1998, 25. (Branch-Smith Publishing, 120 St. Louis Ave., Fort Wayne, TX 76104.)
Backyard Wildlife HabitatTM Program
The National Wildlife Federation began this program in 1975 to acknowledge the efforts of people who were "gardening for wildlife" around their homes. Since then, more than 21,000 habitats (comprising approximately 50,000 acres) have been certified, including Schoolyards HabitatsTM at more than 700 schools and hundreds of habitats at business and public sites. The average habitat size is between one-third and one-half acre, but certified sites range from urban balconies to thousands of acres. Below are excerpts from a recent NWF press release about the Backyard Wildlife HabitatTMProgram.
The program teaches the importance of environmental stewardship by providing people with basic guidelines for making their landscapes more hospitable to wildlife. Habit restoration is critical for wildlife in urban and suburban settings where commercial and residential development encroaches on natural areas. Changing landscapes to encourage more wildlife also enhances the environment's quality by improving the air, soil and water throughout the community. Whether in a backyard, on an apartment balcony, or in a rooftop garden, building a habitat is like producing a play – where the animals are the actors and people the audience!
NWF has received countless testimonials from program participants who find their effort to create a habitat not only rewarding, but fun for the whole family....
While most people recognize the importance of protecting the environment, few understand how just one person can make a difference. Craig Tufts, Chief Naturalist for NWF, says, "There is much each of us can do for the environment as we care for our piece of the Earth. Building a habitat is one example of how a single person or family can do something that can have a long-term positive impact." Of course, persuading your neighbors to join with you can lead to a neighborhood or community habitat, which provides wildlife with even more incentive to call your "piece of earth" home....
The nation's largest member supported conservation advocacy and education group, the National Wildlife Federation unites people from all walks of life to protect nature, wildlife and the world we all share. The Federation has educated and inspired families to uphold America's conservation tradition since 1936.
To get started on your own habitat, order the appropriate information packet(s) from the National Wildlife Federation, P. O. Box 50281, Hampden Station, Baltimore, MD 21211: Backyard Wildlife HabitatTM packet ($12.95); Schoolyard HabitatsTM kit ($18.00); Wildlife Habitats in the Workplace packet ($14.95). All prices are postpaid, but you should add state sales tax if you live in Colorado, the District of Columbia, Florida, Georgia, Illinois, Maryland, Michigan, North Carolina, Texas, Vermont or Virginia. Make your check payable to "NWF." Also available from the same address is a Campus Ecology Greenscapes packet ($11.50) that provides information to college students and administrators on creating wildlife-friendly college and university campuses. And if you think your backyard, schoolyard or workplace already provides significant habitat for wildlife and would like to find out about certification, contact National Wildlife Federation, Backyard Wildlife Habitat Program Office, 8925 Leesburg Pike, Vienna, VA 22184, phone 703-790-4434.
The Shady Border: Knockout Plants That Light Up the Shadows
Gardeners from novice to knowledgeable assume that a shady border can never be as colorful and visually interesting as a sunny one. But, contrary to popular belief, well-designed shade gardens are as lush and colorful as their brethren in full sun. Careful plant selection in the design phase to insure year-round color and interest is as important in the shady garden as it is in the sunny border. The following shade-loving perennials were culled from the Brooklyn Botanic Garden's brand new handbook, The Shady Border.
1. Umbrella leaf (Diphylleia cymosa). There is bold texture in the moist shade garden without Hosta! The large leaves of this flamboyant plant have dramatic, sharply pointed lobes. The small clusters of white flowers borne in spring give way to royal blue berries on carmine stalks. Wow.
2. Creeping wood mint (Meehania cordata). Creeping wood mint is one of the best kept secrets among native groundcovers. The bright blue flowers come in late spring when other woodland plants are past flowering. The entire plant is prostrate and clothed in scalloped leaves.
3. Woodland sage (Salvia koyamae). A sage that blooms like gangbusters in the shade? That's right. Clusters of yellow flowers bloom for several months, carrying the garden into autumn. This attractive plant has deep green, felted arrowhead leaves on one-foot stalks.
4. Chinese ground orchid (Bletilla striata). An orchid that is easy to grow and in spring produces nodding, purply pink flowers that appear to be dainty miniatures of the florist's corsage orchid. Its bold, grassy leaves contrast pleasingly with hostas or the finely cut foliage of ferns. It even grows well in shady, dry conditions.
5. Allegheny foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia). Fountains of frothy white flowers in spring and shiny, evergreen foliage make foamflower one of the most attractive and versatile spring wildflowers. Allegheny foamflower is unsurpassed as a flowering ground cover under flowering shrubs and trees. It is lovely when accented with taller bluebells, Solomon's seal, fairybells and ferns.
6. Royal fern (Osmunda regalis). Royal fern is a fern to be reckoned with. Bold in appearance, it stands proud with three-foot plumy bronze fronds from a single crown. A stand of this fern is very dramatic underplanted with bronze sedge.
7. Jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum). Every shady garden needs a clump of this native wonder. The charming "jacks" unfurl their three leaflets, spanning two feet across, to provide a parasol for the unique hooded flowers. In late summer, the fruit turns a bright orange-red. Grow a clump of jacks at the base of a tree, where the berries will show off against the trunk. Perfect for the consistently wet shade garden.
8. Dog-tooth violet (Erythronium americanum). In early spring, the beautiful, nodding butter-cream flowers, like miniature tiger lilies, take one's breath away. Often found growing in huge masses in wet woodlands, a blanket of dog-tooth violets can convince even the most bitter of cynics that there are things worth living for.
9. Wild geranium (Geranium maculatum). Perennial geraniums have at last become popular in this country. The wonderful foliage has been likened to paper cut-out snowflakes. The one-inch pinkish-purple saucer-shaped flowers are held in clusters high above the foliage. Self-sown seedlings are often plentiful. You will have plenty to trade.
Old House Gardens
The 1998-99 catalog of heirloom bulbs from Old House Gardens (for a copy, send $2 to Scott Kunst, 536 Third St., Ann Arbor, MI 48103; also check out the newly established Web site at www.oldhousegardens.com) adds more than 40 old bulbs, including 'White Aster', "the world's oldest dahlia" (originally introduced in 1879).
Scott has worked as a landscape historian since 1983, and he is available to present "lively, colorful, carefully researched" slide lectures to local groups. Call him at 734-995-1486 for more details.
Here's a tip from Scott: Getting your tulips to bloom forever: Well, longer, at least! For a start, you need to be in USDA Hardiness Zone 7 or colder. Then, most important, I've come to believe, is keeping them dry in summer (as in their native homes). Try this: plant a few where you never water and see how well they return. And avoid disturbing the soil around them when you garden (for some reason, they seem to suffer from that). Beyond that, the basics include well-drained soil, full sun, regular fertilizing and letting the foliage ripen to yellow. Some authorities recommend deep planting, to 12 inches, but I'm not sure. Then there's this age-old method: dig them up every summer, store them in a cool, dry spot and replant them in the fall. You'll end up with more bulbs every year, guaranteed....Some cultivars just last better, too. In my garden, the Single Earlies and species often come back strongly, as do some of the old Single Lates and Lily-flowered.
Hort Tips
November - Edible
Cut back asparagus fronds 1-2 inches from the ground. This will reduce disease problems.
Dig organic matter into vegetable garden soil; add a 2-4 inch layer.
Remove plant debris from the garden to avoid overwintering insects.
Still time to have your soil tested. Call us for booklet.
Turn your compost bin before cold weather arrives.
Enjoy the "fruits of your labors" for Thanksgiving dinner.
November - Ornamental
Drain the gas tank of your mower before storing.
Continue to plant bulbs.
Rake last of fallen leaves. Leaves left on lawn can kill grass.
Place all pesticides in a dry, warm place, out of children's reach to keep liquids from freezing.
Remember to feed the birds. Bird food selection guide available.
Cut back perennials killed by frost.
Prune dead or diseased branches from trees and shrubs.
November - Interior
Report your houseplants if the soil dries out quickly, if roots are growing out of the drainage hole and if water will not drain through the soil.
Pot up amaryllis bulbs for holiday blooms. Growing amaryllis factsheet available.
Reduce watering and fertilization of houseplants.
December - Edible
Order garden catalogs. Vegetable and flower catalog lists available.
After a month of cold temperatures, pot up chives and bring indoors. Cut back and water.
Cover garden tools with a light coating of oil to prevent rust. Nutritious sprouts can be grown in jars. Fun for kids. Factsheet available.
Have problems in the vegetable garden? Check out the University of Illinois Extension's "Ask the Expert" WEB site at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/hort/ to get all your questions answered.
December - Ornamental
Do not use salt to clear snow or ice away. Runoff will harm nearby plants.
Decorate evergreens for the holidays.
Overwintering plants in containers? Loosely place wire mesh around the planter and fill the space with leaves.
Continue to plant bulbs as long as ground isn't frozen.
Decorate your window boxes with evergreens and berries.
Move smaller containers with trees and shrubs to an unheated garage.
Mulch perennial bed after ground is frozen.
Send a garden gift to a friend or relative. List of ideas available.
Keep poinsettias away from warm or cold drafts. Poinsettias and holiday plant care information available.
Cover your flower beds with Christmas tree branches for winter protection.
Birds need water in the winter. Use a durable plastic flower pot saucer to hold water.
Caulk any holes used by wasps to enter your home or garage.
Buy a fresh Christmas tree at a local farm. Listing of local Christmas tree farms available.
December - Interior
Did you know live mistletoe stems, leaves and berries are poisonous? Keep away from children.
Thinking of growing orchids? They need an indoor environment with temperatures between 60°-80°F and high humidity plus 12-14 hours of light.
Buy an orchid as a cut flower. Expensive, but blooms can last for weeks.
Punch holes in foil around holiday plants to allow drainage.
Use aluminum foil to line window sills. The foil reflects light and provides extra light for houseplants.
January - Ornamentals
Check for upcoming gardening classes at the University of Illinois Extension, 773-233-0476; the Chicago Botanic Garden 847-835-5440 and the Morton Arboretum 630-719-2468.
Stay off the lawn in the winter. Turf can be damaged by heavy foot traffic.
Read those horticultural magazines and gardening books that you put aside during the holidays.
Use Christmas tree branches as a mulch over perennials.
Check your local library for gardening books.
Remove heavy snows from shrubs.
Feed the birds.
Spreading wood ashes over your flower beds, can, in time, raise the soil's pH.
Move garden urns into the garage to prevent cracking during cold weather.
Plan this coming spring for winter color. Factsheet available.
January - Interior
Grow basil and chives on a sunny window in quart size heavy duty ziploc freezer bags.
Water houseplants when soil is dry. Overwatering causes root rot.
Try bonsai gardening - growing dwarfed trees - Factsheet available.
Do not put holiday gift plants on the TV. The environment is too warm.
Keep poinsettias blooming by keeping them away from drafts and keeping soil moist.
Remove dying flowers from amaryllis plants. Allowing seed pods to remain on the plant will reduce next year's flowers.
Try test tubes and beakers for unusual vases for cut flowers. Hospital supply stores might have them.
Grow orchids indoors - factsheet available.
Move houseplants to areas of best light in your home.
Try sprouts, mung beans, or alfalfa seeds indoors. It's fun and easy. Factsheet available.
Cut back or eliminate fertilization of houseplants during winter months.
Have kids build a simple bird feeder. Factsheet available
February - Ornamentals
Check for heaving of small shrubs and perennials. Push them back into the ground.
Force branches of flowering shrubs and trees such as viburnums, forsythia, pussy willow and redbud. Factsheet available.
Forced pussy willows can be used in dry arrangements and will last for years.
Pot up emerging crocuses and bring indoors to flower.
Order trees and shrubs such as crabapple, hawthorn and pyracantha to attract birds to your yard. Factsheet available.
Check trees and shrubs for areas that need pruning. The University of Illinois Extension has a fifty-five page comprehensive guide for pruning of trees, shrubs and evergreens for a charge. Call 773-233-0476 for more information.
Save milk jugs for hot caps and orange juice cans for placing around new transplants to control grub worms.
Start seeds indoors of cool season vegetables - broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower for planting in April.
Plan the vegetable garden around your family vacation so as to avoid missing big harvests while you're gone.
Check the soil to be sure it is dry before working your vegetable garden bed. Soil should crumble in your hand.
Paint the handles of garden tools red or orange. This will make them easier to find in the garden.
Buy tools for upcoming growing season. Basic tools might include a shovel; spade; spading fork; rake; garden gloves; garden trowel and pruning shears.
Save plastic soda bottles to protect newly transplanted seedlings from spring frosts. Just cut out the bottoms.
Starting seeds indoors? Cover them with plastic wrap and palace on top of fridge. Bottom hat from fridge will speed up germination. Move seedlings to natural light after germination.
February - Interior
Grow attractive foliage houseplants from citrus seeds such as grapefruits, lemons and oranges.
Inspect your houseplants' roots. Check for soft, rotted, browned dead roots. Prune out and repot.
Air layer houseplants such as Dracena, Dieffenbachia, and the rubber plant. Factsheet available.
Place mesh screening wire over the drainage holes of pots to keep soil from washing out after watering.
Check light, temperature, moisture, nutrients and humidity in your home if your houseplants are not growing well.
Toss your fading poinsettia. Getting it to reflower is difficult, but if you want to try, there is a factsheet available.
Save some money by trying red gladioli instead of roses for Valentine's Day.
Locally Grown
Pumpkins & Winter Squash
Summer is over, let the harvest of fall finery begin. The Farmers' Market and the supermarket are loaded with pumpkins, a wide variety of winter squash, sweet potatoes, cabbage, carrots, parsnips, turnips, beets, apples, pears and turnip greens. The winter produce section is caulked full of anti-oxidants, phytochemicals and fiber. These are substances that have been found to lower your risk of cancer. Eating at least five servings of a variety of vegetables and fruits every day can help reduce the risk of all forms of cancer by twenty percent.
Peeling and cooking winter squash and pumpkin can be a challenge to the novice. Thin- skinned varieties, such as Butternut and Acorn can be peeled with a paring knife or vegetable peeler. Others, such as Turban and Hubbard must be cut open with a sharp cleaver or by tapping the handle end of a large chef's knife with a blunt object.
To open the tough ones, place the squash on newspaper and insert the tip of a chef's knife. Tap the handle end of the knife with a mallet or rolling pin, then cut or break it in half. Scoop out the strings and seeds and discard, unless you plan to roast the seeds. The squash can then be cut into smaller pieces and peeled with a paring knife.
For squash puree, simply bake (350°F for 30 minutes or longer) or microwaved (high for 25 minutes or longer) the two halves until fork tender then spoon out the soft flesh. Most varieties of winter squash can be used interchangeably in recipes or substituted for pumpkin and vice versa. Cooked squash and pumpkin can also be frozen. Cool the chunks in the refrigerator, then pack into freezer bags and freeze for up to 6 months. Measure puree in one cup portions before freezing for ease in recipe use.
Select heavy unblemished squash and pumpkin. Make sure at least an inch of stem is visible or it will decay quickly. Whole winter squash and pumpkins can be stored in a garage or basement. Acorn, Butternut and Banana do not store for as long a period as tough-skinned Turban, Hubbard and Delicata. The large tough ones can be stored for up to six months in a cool, dry place. The smaller more delicate ones store for only half as long. Ideal temperatures for long term storage range from 45 to 50 degrees.
To enhance the flavor of pumpkin and winter squash, add cinnamon, nutmeg, brown sugar, honey, orange juice concentrate or use them in your favorite recipe. Add chunks to soups and stews to increase fiber and nutrients.
Winter squash are a tasty source of complex carbohydrates (natural sugar and starch) and fiber. It also provides potassium, niacin and iron. The orange flesh is very high in beta carotene; the deeper the color, the higher the beta carotene content. Beta carotene is the substance your body converts to vitamin A. Vitamin A is essential for healthy skin, eyes, and a host of other bodily functions. Add pumpkin and winter squash to your diet. Enjoy!
Food for Thought–A Rundown on Winter Squash Varieties
Winter squash should not be stored in the refrigerator (unless purchased in pieces) or in a damp place. Moisture causes rapid deterioration. Squash purchased in pieces should be tightly wrapped and refrigerated for no more than 4 days. Whole, unbruised winter squash can be stored for 3 to 6 months at 45° to 50°F. Warmer temperatures will mean shorter storage time. Cooked winter squash can be refrigerated for up to one week or frozen for up to 6 months.
To cook most winter squash, cut in half, scoop out seeds and strings, place cut side down on a shallow baking dish and bake at 350°F for 30 minutes or longer. Check for doneness by piercing with a fork. When tender, remove from the oven, allow to cool for handling, spoon out the soft flesh and proceed with your recipe. For microwaving, microwave on high, cut side down, for 15 minutes or until fork tender.
The Native Americans
Acorn–The acorn squash, also known as Danish squash, was named for its shape. It has its shape. It has a dark green, tan or orange ribbed shell with bright orange flesh. It can be stored in a cool, dry place for up to 3 months.
Butternut–Butternut squash is shaped rather like a bowling pin, round on the bottom and with a narrow tapering neck. It is tan in color with sweet orange flesh. Store up to 3 months in a cool, dark place.
Delicata–This slender, oval squash has pale yellow skin with dark green or orange stripes. It is sweet tasting. The yellow flesh has a corn-like taste. It is also rather fragile, so store for about 3 months.
Hubbard–An old favorite large squash shaped like a spinning top. Its color ranges from pale green to golden to blue gray. The skin is tough and bumpy with dull orange, fairly dry, mealy yellow-orange flesh. It can get very large and weigh between 10 to 15 pounds.
Pumpkin–There are several varieties of pumpkin, the large Jack-O-Lantern, the small sweet or pie pumpkin and the Jack-Be-Little, which is often used for decorating although it is very edible. The Giant Atlantic pumpkin can reach up to 600 pounds.
Spaghetti–This one is oval in shape with a pale yellow rind. It is called the "vegetable spaghetti" because the flesh forms long noodlelike strands when cooked. Cut in half and remove seeds and fibrous mass, bake and use a fork to gently loosen yellow strands into a bowl. Excellent with your favorite pasta sauce.
Sweet Dumpling–This one is small with vertical stripes and deep ridges with a flattened bottom. Very sweet flesh. Store for 2 to 3 months.
Turk's Turban–These come in bizarre shapes with extravagant red, green and yellow coloration that makes it look like, you guessed it, a turban. It has a large round base with a smaller section that resembles a hat. It has thick sweet orange-yellow flesh that tastes a little like hazelnuts. Another type is smaller and has a sweet potato like taste and is called "buttercup."
The Asians
Chinese Winter Melon–This Asian native of the cucumber family is tropical, but its hard rind makes it ideal for long storage. It has a blue-gray-green skin and is covered with a splotchy white film. It looks like a watermelon dusted with powered sugar. It has soft, delicate tasting snowy white flesh. It is sold in Cantonese markets as dung gwa.
Japanese Pumpkin–Known by its Japanese name as kabocha, or its Cantonese name, nam gwa one variety has a green rind with light green streaks. The flesh is sweet and pale orange. A pretty squash which can be treated like acorn in recipes. There is a brilliant orange-skinned variety known as "Red Kuri." Several varieties are sold in Japanese markets and speciality produce shops.
The Latin
Calabaza–This is a Spanish generic term for squash that also refers to a few specific ones, especially Caribbean winter squashes that are large and more pumpkin-like than squash-like. Calabazas are most available in markets that cater to Latin tastes. They are traditionally added to beans, stews and desserts.
Food Handling
Mail Order Food
Everyone loves getting packages in the mail. Sometimes they are gifts of food....either homemade or from mail order catalogs. When it is baked goods or shelf-stable canned items, the lucky recipient usually knows how to tell about its safety and how to handle it.
But, what about smoked turkeys, cheese and smoked sausage gift packs? What about other types of perishable food items? Whether you are giving or receiving, here are some good safety guidelines you need to keep in mind.
Check With the Company Before placing the order, ask the company how the gift will be packaged. It should be packed in foam or heavy corrugated cardboard. If it is a perishable item like meat or poultry, it should be cold or frozen. It should also be packaged with a cold source such as dry ice or an ice pack.
Speedy Delivery Ask the company how the food will be mailed. If it is a perishable item, it should be delivered as quickly as possible – ideally, overnight! Make sure perishable items and the outer package are labeled "Keep Refrigerated" to alert the recipient.
Storage and Preparation Instructions Will the food item come with storage and preparation instructions? Some mail order food gift items are of an unusual nature. Some consumers may not know how to handle or prepare them. How long can the item be safely stored in the refrigerator after opening? Can it be frozen?
Arrange a Delivery Date Tell the recipient if the company has promised a specific delivery date. Alert the recipient that "the gift is in the mail" so that they or a neighbor can be home to receive it. Otherwise it may sit unsafely on the front porch or at the post office for hours or even days. Don't have perishable items delivered to an office unless you know it will arrive on a work day and there is refrigerator space available for keeping it cold. It is not the mail order company's fault if your package sits in the mail room for days.
Check the Temperature When you receive a food item marked "Keep Refrigerated" open it immediately and check its temperature. Optimally, the food should arrive frozen or partially frozen with ice crystals still visible, or at least, refrigerator cold to the touch.
If perishable food arrives warm, notify the company if you think you deserve a refund. Do not consume the food if it is questionable. But, remember, it is the shipper's responsibility to deliver perishable foods on time and in good condition. It is the customer's responsibility to have someone at home to receive the package.
Keep It Cold Refrigerate or freeze perishable items immediately. Even if a product is partially defrosted it is safe to re-freeze it, although there may be a slight loss of quality. Happy Holidays!
Source: U.S. Department of Agriculture's Meat & Poultry Hotline. For more information on safe handling of meat and poultry for the holidays call the hotline at 1-800-535-4555 or visit the website at http://www.fsis.usda.gov/OA/pubs/consumerpubs.htm
Handling Holiday Food at Work
Ah, the office "Holiday Celebration." An elaborate "potluck" spread in which all members of the group agree to bring food items from home. The conference room is beautifully decorated with bright sparkling streamers and a large table is set up to display the food. You can smell Jennifer's famous Grilled Lemon Garlic Chicken as soon as she enters the room. Bob always brings his ever so popular Hickory Smoked Ribs with Spicy Bourbon Sauce and the celebration would not be complete without Beverly's rich and delicious Pumpkin Chiffon Cheesecake with Carmel Nut Topping.
Although the party is scheduled for lunchtime, it actually begins when someone leaves a bottle of Hazelnut Liqueur by the coffee machine and the Eggnog arrives. The refrigerator is full, bags of food can be found sitting around all over the place. Silently and without the slightest warning uninvited bacteria may start to grow. Does this scenario sound familiar? It happens every year all over the country.
Potluck? A potluck dinner is defined by Webster's Dictionary as a dinner to which everyone brings a dish or entree, salad or dessert to share. It is further defined as "whatever is available, with little or no choice." Many times what is available develops into "a 24 hour bug" or "stomach flu." Both terms are actually misnomers for "food poisoning" or "foodborne illness." But, you do have a choice. Illness can be avoided if people just learn to handle food properly.
What should you do to make your "Holiday Potluck Celebration" a complete success? Let's start with some widespread myths about food and food handling.
Myth: It smells good and tastes alright so it must be good. Wrong! The bacteria that causes foodborne illness does not change the taste, smell or appearance of the food. That's why people eat it. Given the ideal conditions bacteria will grow. The temperature "danger zone" is between 40 and 140°F. If the food is too hot or too cold for bacteria growth, it is safe. Food that is to be served hot should be refrigerated until ready to serve. Then it should be re-heated to 165°F and held at temperatures above 140°F. If the temperature of hot food falls below 140°F it should not be left at room temperature for more than 2 hours.
Myth: The food is cooked, so it won't spoil. Wrong! Cooked food held for more than 2 hours without refrigeration or a heat source is the ideal environment for airborne bacteria to grow and multiply. Especially protein-rich foods such as meat, chicken and egg dishes. The grilled lemon garlic chicken, pumpkin chiffon cheesecake, eggnog and hickory smoked ribs mentioned above are all prime candidates for bacteria growth if improperly handled.
Myth: We all ate the same thing and only a few people got sick so it couldn't be the food. Wrong again! Whether or not you get sick is based on several facts. First, how much of the bad food did you eat? For example: the bacteria load you consumed in one piece of bad chicken is much less than someone who ate three pieces of the same chicken. Also, your immune system may be more able to fight off the illness-causing bacteria than the person eating next to you.
Myth: My kitchen is clean and I always wash my hands so the food I brought could not possibly make anyone sick. Wrong! Your food may have been perfectly safe when it left your kitchen, but how was it handled after it arrived? Unsafe time and temperature practices could have made it unsafe. Hot cooked food and cold food such as potato salad can become harmful if it sits on the buffet table from noon until five o'clock. If food will not be eaten within the 2 hour safety zone, provide a controlled temperature environment for it. Set potato salad or other cold foods in a large pan of crushed ice to keep it cold during serving time. Plan to use a sterno or crock pot at low setting to keep hot foods hot.
Myth: No bacteria could possibly live in my eggnog with all that rum and bourbon. Wrong again! Cooked, chilled eggnog is the only safe eggnog. Eggnog should never be made with raw eggs and the addition of alcohol will not kill the Salmonella that may be in the uncooked egg rich food. Salmonella dies at 155°F. Commercial eggnog is pasteurized to proper temperatures and homemade eggnog must always be cooked too. Some bacteria can tolerate an alcohol environment. Some can tolerate high salt as well. So, foods like ham and spiked eggnog are not safe unless they are properly handled.
Whether your office holiday celebration is pot luck or catered, keep it safe. Happy Holidays.
Health and Household Tips
Classic Cooked Holiday Eggnog
Use a pasteurized egg product when making eggnog or use a cooked eggnog recipe. The egg mixture is done when it reaches 160°F or when it thickens and coats the back of a spoon. Keep eggs and egg dishes in the refrigerator as much as possible, allowing no more than 2 hours at room temperature for preparing and serving.
1. In large saucepan, beat together eggs, sugar and salt, if desired. 2. Stir in 2 cups of milk. Cook over low heat. Whisk constantly, until mixture thickens enough to coat a metal spoon with a thin film and reaches at least 160°F. 3. Remove from heat. Add cinnamon sticks. Stir. Add whipping cream and vanilla. Stir until well blended. 4. Cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, several hours or overnight. Just before serving garnish with several sprinkles of ground nutmeg.
* May substitute milk or Half & Half for cream.
Cranberries: Sauced Again?
Cranberry season and apple season coincide and they compliment each other in taste. This microwave version of an old favorite is so easy and so delicious it could become a holiday tradition for your family. Make this sauce a day in advance of serving.
Apple Cranberry Relish
1-1/2 cups sugar 1/4 cup water 1 12 oz. bag of fresh cranberries 1 large sweet apple*, peeled and chopped 1 teaspoon orange zest (optional)
1. Pick over cranberries and remove the mushy ones. Place berries in a colander and rinse under cold running water. Allow to drain for a few minutes. 2. In a large microwave-safe bowl, combine cranberries, sugar, water, chopped apple and the orange zest. Mix well. 3. Cover and microwave on high for 5 minutes. 4. Stir well and continue microwaving on high for 10 minutes longer or until berries begin to burst. Some berries will remain whole and some will be broken. 5. Remove and stir again. Careful, the mixture is very hot. Spoon hot sauce into a clean, quart size container or glass jar. The sauce will thicken as it cools. 6. Cover and refrigerate for several hours or until ready to serve. Keeps in the refrigerator for up to 4 weeks.
* any variety of apple can be used successfully in this recipe. Recommended varieties include Gala, Red Delicious, Golden Delicious or Jonathan.
Unusual Food Gifts: How to Store Them
People often send exotic food gifts during the holiday season. Smoked pheasant, imported cheese or homemade pickles are not the usual food items we are accustomed to storing in our homes. The following guidelines should be helpful.
Vacuum packaging–vacuum packaging, while inhibiting the growth of spoilage bacteria may encourage the growth of Clostridium botulinum which thrives in an oxygen-free environment. Vacuum-packed meats are as perishable as raw meats and should be treated the same way.
Cans or jars of meat–refrigerate if so labeled, otherwise shelf-stable 2-5 years as with any canned food. After opening, store in refrigerator up to a week.
Cheese, processed or hard–safe at room temperature, but refrigeration prolongs quality.
"Cook-before-eating" ham–refrigerate up to 1 week. After cooking, refrigerate up to 5 days.
Country ham–shelf-stable 1 year if unsliced. Refrigerate 2 to 3 months if sliced. Once cooked, refrigerate 4-7 days.
Game birds–keep refrigerated up to 2 days raw or 4 days after cooking.
Sausage labeled "Keep Refrigerated"–store refrigerated up to 1 week.
Sausage, hard/dry type–if unopened, can be kept in the cabinet 4 to 6 weeks, in the refrigerator 6 months. After opening, store up to 3 weeks in the refrigerator.
Freezer Note: frozen food stays safe indefinitely but may lose quality and flavor after recommended storage time. Warning!! Do not freeze canned food. Expanding contents may burst seams causing leakage and rusting.
Home Canned Foods–Homemade canned goods can be a wonderful treat if canned properly. Know the source. Jams, jellies and pickled products are usually fine. Check the seal by pushing your finger on the top of the jar lid. It should be concave and should not make a clicking sound.
After opening, store home canned foods in the refrigerator. They contain no additives or preservatives and will spoil quickly at room temperature. Store jams and jellies for up to 4 weeks in the refrigerator. Store opened jars of pickles and relishes for up to 3 months. Always check any canned product for signs of spoilage. Swollen, leaky cans with wet labels should be discarded immediately.
Home canned low acid foods such as meat and vegetables like corn and green beans should not be given as gifts. They could be unsafe if not canned in a pressure canner.
Did You Know?
extra virgin olive oil is the oil from the first pressing of the olive? The subtle flavor is destroyed by heat. Use extra virgin frugally in dishes that do not require cooking, such as salad dressing and dipping sauce. Keep a lesser quality olive oil on hand for roasting and sauteing.
high heel shoes are a physical hazard? Researchers at Harvard Medical School have found that walking in high heels strains the knees, producing the kind of wear and tear on cartilage that causes osteoarthritis. Ankle flexibility is limited increasing the average load on the knee by 23%. The findings may help to explain why women are twice as prone as men to knee problems. Free your feet and switch to flats if you have a lot of ground to cover.
the Food & Drug Administration has recommended approval of a vaccine for Lyme Disease? In recent studies the vaccine reduced the chance of infection from Lyme carrying ticks by 80%. However, you will need three shots over a 13 month period. If you are an avid hiker, it may be worth it.
according to data from the U.S. Department of Agriculture's 1994 Continuing Survey of Food Intakes of Individuals, women still do the majority of work in the kitchen? Researchers at the University of Minnesota analyzed data from 1,200 households jointly headed by men and women and found that 93% of the females planned meals, 88% shopped for food and 90% usually cooked. In contrast, just 23% of the men helped with meal planning, 36% usually shopped for food and only 27% usually cooked. Younger men and men in low income households were more likely to help with meals. Very interesting!
wheat bran that has been heated may be more effective than raw wheat bran in preventing colon cancer? Researchers from the U. S. Department of Agriculture's Agriculture Research Service at the University of California at Davis conducted a six and a half months study on the effects of raw and processed wheat bran on the diets of rats. The animals that were fed processed wheat bran had 33% fewer indications of colon cancer than those who ate the raw wheat bran.
a new "peanut-free zone" on board planes has been proposed by the U. S. Department of Transportation? According to the Wall Street Journal, the move is supposed to protect flyers who suffer from peanut allergies. Not surprisingly, the peanut growers think the idea is just plain nuts.
