Many gardeners will soon be enjoying the rewards of early spring planting. Lettuce, beet tops, mustard greens, spinach and turnip tops are just a few of the leafy greens that gardeners will be enjoying. Many greens grow best in cool weather and mature in a relatively short amount of time. Most greens can be planted just as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring or in August for a fall crop. Successive plantings are also recommended to extend the harvest season.

Harvest the outer leaves of leaf lettuce as soon as they enlarge to 4 to 6 inches. The leaves on the inside will continue to develop. Crisp-head lettuce takes longer to mature and is harvested when the head is full size and moderately firm.

Beets and turnips serve a dual purpose. Tops can be used during the thinning process while the remainder of the plants are left to develop into a root crop for later enjoyment. If only the tops are desired, seeds can be scattered in a corner of the flower bed or garden and used as soon as they are 4 to 6 inches tall. The tops of these vegetable are an excellent source of Vitamins A and C, B Vitamins and calcium.

Mustard greens mature quickly and are best planted in early spring or fall. Warm, long days will cause the plant to go to seed. Harvest before the leaves are fully grown for best flavor. Spinach will also go to seed quickly during long days. Plants are best grown in early spring or later summer for a fall crop. Harvest as soon as leaves are 6 to 8 inches long and allow the center of the plant to continue producing.

Greens that like warm temperatures include New Zealand spinach, Swiss chard, collards and kale. Harvest New Zealand spinach as succulent leaves and young stem tips. Swiss chard is harvested by removing the large, outer leaves as they reach 8 to 10 inches long. The center of the plant continues to produce for an extended harvest. Collards will tolerate both heat and cold. Harvest the young tender leaves, and the central plant will continue producing. Kale is harvested similarly to collards. The flavor of both collards and kale is improved by frost. Plant by August 1 for a fall crop.

Most greens can be stored for up to two weeks in the refrigerator. After washing, place the produce in perforated plastic bags to maintain humidity.

Source: Iowa State University

As soon as the frost is out of the ground many home gardeners begin to think about planting their early spring garden. As a rule, the majority of vegetables grown in home gardens are best started from seeds planted directly in the ground.

Vegetable seeds that may be planted early include cabbage, kohlrabi, leaf lettuce, mustard greens, onion, pea, radish, spinach and turnip.

Buy fresh, disease-free seed each season from a reputable seed company. The potential frustrations and delays caused by non-viable seed can be avoided by an investment in good seed. Old seed or bargain seed is no bargain. By ordering seed from garden catalogs you also have the advantage of selecting varieties that might not otherwise be available on a seed rack at a garden center or supermarket. While looking through catalogs trying to choose seed for your 1999 garden, it's easy to get confused with all of the varieties available.

The following suggestions should prove very helpful:

• Don't get carried away with the glowing descriptions. It might be fun to grow a "square" tomato, but the plant may not yield much.

• One way to extend harvest is to buy several varieties of the same vegetable that have differing maturity dates.

• Choose bush type plants when possible. If you don't have room for large vining plants such as squash, choose one of the newer bush type squash that takes up considerably less room. Such varieties fit well into a small city plot.

• Avoid selecting varieties strictly for earliness. Most gardeners are anxious to have the first tomato or early beans, but rarely do flavor and quality go hand in hand with earliness. Plant later maturing varieties to insure a continuous supply.

• Everyone likes to have the largest tomato or the biggest pepper, but again rarely are the biggest vegetables the best. Look at what size of vegetables are sold at the store; generally a consumer wants average size vegetables – not too small and not extremely large.

• Select disease resistance varieties. Buying disease-resistant seeds and plants is the easiest way a gardener can avoid problems in the garden.

• Use fresh seed. Many gardeners overbuy one year and then save seed till the next year. Old seed often results in frustration and delayed planting because of poor germination.

• You will come across varieties marked hybrid or All-America Selections. A hybrid is a cross between two plants that results in a new plant displaying desirable characteristics of both parents. Hybrid plants are stronger and healthier; they also bloom earlier, are resistant to disease and are tolerant of pollution and adverse weather conditions. Because of the research and production costs involved in the process, the seed is more expensive than standard seed, but, hybrids give the best results and are worth the extra money.

• All-America Selections (AAS) is a non-profit organization that develops and promotes new varieties of both flowers and vegetables. Each year seed companies submit new varieties that are grown at trial gardens throughout the United States and are compared with established varieties that are known to do well. To qualify for an award, the new variety must outperform the best established variety. The winners are designated by "AAS" on seed racks and in catalogs. You might consider growing one or two All-America Selections in your garden, but don't rely completely on them.

Source: Jim Schmidt, University of Illinois

As soon as the frost is out of the ground many home gardeners begin to think about planting their early spring garden. As a rule, the majority of vegetables grown in home gardens are best started from seeds planted directly in the ground.

Vegetable seeds that may be planted early include cabbage, kohlrabi, leaf lettuce, mustard greens, onion, pea, radish, spinach and turnip.

Buy fresh, disease-free seed each season from a reputable seed company. The potential frustrations and delays caused by non-viable seed can be avoided by an investment in good seed. Old seed or bargain seed is no bargain. By ordering seed from garden catalogs you also have the advantage of selecting varieties that might not otherwise be available on a seed rack at a garden center or supermarket. While looking through catalogs trying to choose seed for your 1999 garden, it's easy to get confused with all of the varieties available.

The following suggestions should prove very helpful:

• Don't get carried away with the glowing descriptions. It might be fun to grow a "square" tomato, but the plant may not yield much.

• One way to extend harvest is to buy several varieties of the same vegetable that have differing maturity dates.

• Choose bush type plants when possible. If you don't have room for large vining plants such as squash, choose one of the newer bush type squash that takes up considerably less room. Such varieties fit well into a small city plot.

• Avoid selecting varieties strictly for earliness. Most gardeners are anxious to have the first tomato or early beans, but rarely do flavor and quality go hand in hand with earliness. Plant later maturing varieties to insure a continuous supply.

• Everyone likes to have the largest tomato or the biggest pepper, but again rarely are the biggest vegetables the best. Look at what size of vegetables are sold at the store; generally a consumer wants average size vegetables – not too small and not extremely large.

• Select disease resistance varieties. Buying disease-resistant seeds and plants is the easiest way a gardener can avoid problems in the garden.

• Use fresh seed. Many gardeners overbuy one year and then save seed till the next year. Old seed often results in frustration and delayed planting because of poor germination.

• You will come across varieties marked hybrid or All-America Selections. A hybrid is a cross between two plants that results in a new plant displaying desirable characteristics of both parents. Hybrid plants are stronger and healthier; they also bloom earlier, are resistant to disease and are tolerant of pollution and adverse weather conditions. Because of the research and production costs involved in the process, the seed is more expensive than standard seed, but, hybrids give the best results and are worth the extra money.

• All-America Selections (AAS) is a non-profit organization that develops and promotes new varieties of both flowers and vegetables. Each year seed companies submit new varieties that are grown at trial gardens throughout the United States and are compared with established varieties that are known to do well. To qualify for an award, the new variety must outperform the best established variety. The winners are designated by "AAS" on seed racks and in catalogs. You might consider growing one or two All-America Selections in your garden, but don't rely completely on them.

Source: Jim Schmidt, University of Illinois

Most home gardeners are anxious for that first ripe tomato or early muskmelon. Gardeners who sell produce at local farmers' markets also strive for the earliest crop possible because early produce often bring better prices at the market.

There are several techniques gardeners can use to hasten growth and production in vegetable plants. Listed below are a few ideas you may want to try this year.

Early Varieties

All varieties of a vegetable do not mature at the same time. One way to obtain earlier yields is to select varieties that mature in fewer days. There may be some sacrifice in fruit or ear size with the earlier varieties, so you may want to plant a later maturing variety for mid-season production. Some of the recommended early varieties are:

• muskmelon 'Earlysweet'
• tomato 'Spring Giant,' 'Pik Red,' 'President'
• potato 'Red Norland,' 'Irish Cobbler'
• sweet corn 'Earliking,' 'Earligem,' 'Earlibelle,' 'Aztec,' 'Sundance'
• cabbage 'Gourmet,' 'Heads Up'

Transplants

Starting plants indoors and setting them out as young seedlings often gives gardeners a few week's head start on the season. Crops that grow well from transplants are: tomato, pepper, eggplant, cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kohlrabi, onion, cucumber, muskmelon, watermelon and squash.

Tips to remember when using transplants to enhance early production are:

• Set out small, stocky transplants. Avoid those that have fruits or flowers. Cucurbits, such as cucumbers, melons and squash, should be set out when the first true leaf appears. This is around 21 days after seeding.

• Transplants should be properly hardened-off before planting in the garden.

Black Plastic Mulch

For several years, commercial vegetable growers have used black plastic mulch to produce earlier yields. It is now widely available to home gardeners. Other advantages to using black plastic mulch are that it conserves soil moisture and prevents weed growth around the plants. It comes in rolls 3 feet wide and various lengths. It is used for warm season crops, such as tomato, pepper, eggplant and cucurbits and is laid at planting time. Some tips for using black plastic mulch are:

• Lay the plastic on a calm day.

• Lay the plastic on moist soil.

• Keep the plastic tight on the soil and weigh down the edges with soil.

• Punch holes in the plastic to set the transplants through at recommended plant spacings. Do not punch any other holes in the plastic. Water will enter through the transplant holes and spread laterally under the plastic.

• Most plastic mulches are not degradable and must be removed from the garden at the end of the season.

Hot Tents

Covers placed over individual plants are often called 'hot tents' or 'hot caps.' They protect the young transplants from wind and cool temperatures. It should be noted, however, that they only provide frost protection down to 29 or 30°F. It is also important to provide some type of ventilation in the hot tent to permit air exchange.

Hot tents should be left over the plants for only a week to 10 days, depending on the temperature. Yields can be reduced if the plants outgrow the hot tents or if it gets too hot under the hot tents.

There are several types of hot tents gardeners can use. Avoid using tin (coffee cans). Gallon milk jugs with the bottoms cut off and the caps removed work well as hot tents. Place a thin stake through the opening in the milk jug to secure it to the soil. You may also want to mound soil around the sides. Regularly check plants growing under milk jugs and remove the milk jug before the plant becomes too large.

Wall-O-Waters

Wall-O-Waters are similar to hot tents. However, they provide much longer protection for the plant. They consist of a series of tubes that are filled with water. The Wall-O-Water is set up in the garden 6 to 8 weeks before the typical planting date. It should be set up and filled with water a week before the transplants are planted through them. This will warm the soil in that area.

To fill the Wall-O-Water, place it over a 5 gallon bucket. Fill each tube 2/3 full of water. It will lean inward to form a "tepee" around the plant. The Wall-O-Water will protect plants to 16°F. When outside temperatures drop below freezing, the water inside the Wall-O-Water will freeze. As the water freezes, it gives off heat, keeping the temperature inside the Wall-O-Water above freezing. When outside temperatures become warm, the tubes in the Wall-O-Water can be completely filled with water so that it stays open. It can remain over the plants for up to a month after the last frost date. In demonstration garden trials throughout Iowa, the Wall-O-Water resulted in earlier fruit production on tomatoes. However, they did not work well for muskmelon.

Floating Row Covers

Floating row covers are lightweight "fabrics" that are laid over a row of plants to protect them. They are composed of spun bonded polyester and come in various widths – 6 feet or wider. Floating row covers are designed to retain heat while allowing light and water through to the crop. The row cover material is about 85 percent transparent and may provide protection down to 28°F. Floating row covers are available to gardeners under trade names such as Reemay and Agryl.

This product is intended to "float" over the row with edges held in place with soil. However, strong winds whip the row cover material around and cause abrasion on the young seedlings. It performs best when stretched over hoop supports spaced every 5 feet down the row. The edges should be secured with soil. Floating row covers are also recommended as a non-chemical insect control strategy. Cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower can be grown under Reemay that has been stretched over hoops to prevent cabbage worm attack. Be sure to make the support hoops large enough to accommodate the full-sized plants. Some gardeners have used it over young cucumber and muskmelon plants to prevent cucumber beetle feeding. However, it needs to be removed when the plants begin to flower so pollination can take place.

There are other ways to protect young transplants. Wire cages placed over tomato plants can be wrapped in clear plastic to protect the plants from wind and cool temperatures. Some commercial vegetable growers use slitted, clear plastic row covers to protect their plants. The slitted plastic is stretched over wire hoops and secured with soil, resembling a mini greenhouse.

Source: Iowa State University

Thinking of starting a hedge? Whether your plans call for a deciduous or an evergreen hedge, here are some tips on starting your hedge.

Small, deciduous, hedge plants are usually planted bare-root, while evergreens are purchased in containers or as balled-and-burlapped plants. Hedge and windbreak plants are also offered in baskets.

Regardless of how you purchase your hedge plants they all need special care when planting.

Hedge plants usually should be set into the ground at the same depth as they were originally growing. However, bare-root plants may need to be placed slightly deeper. A water basin should be provided around each plant and a mulch put into place to ensure quick establishment.

Set bare-root plants in good, loose soil so that backfilling can be done properly. The roots should be completely surrounded with soil and all large air pockets eliminated.

Spread the plant roots well and space the plants evenly in the planting trench. Form a cone of soil to accommodate the root system of each plant. Set each plant on the soil cone and begin to backfill with soil. Add water at the same time. This forms a slurry that makes good contact with all of the roots. When the water has all soaked in, make sure the plants are in a straight line and at the right depth. You may want to use a chalk line to check alignment. Then finish backfilling and form a water basin around each plant. Add mulch and water again.

You will need to apply one to two inches of water per week during the first year or at least until the plants start to grow rapidly.

For multi-stemmed deciduous shrubs, start rejuvenation pruning as soon as the shrubs are planted. This will help in gradually forming the hedge into the desired keystone shape.

Keep fertilization to a minimum at planting time. Fertilize with a water-soluble starter solution, such as 9-45-15. Follow the directions on the package carefully. Such an application will promote root growth and help the plants get established quickly.

The fertilizer used for maintenance purposes should be a more balanced formula, such as 12-12-12. Use just enough to maintain good leaf color and to promote some growth. Apply in late winter – February or March – to allow for good growth before pruning. Pruning is usually done in late June or early July. Over-fertilization promotes excessive shoot growth and prolongs the growth period. Lush growth interferes with pruning and causes a shock to the plants when the pruning occurs.

Source: Floyd Giles, University of Illinois

Turn shade into an asset and grow brilliant flowers and foliage plants, but to do this forget about sun lovers such as zinnias, marigolds and petunias. Instead, choose coleus, impatiens, fibrous-rooted begonias and vinca rosea. They thrive in subdued light and provide attractive, carefree summer-to-fall color.

Coleus - attracts attention with its kaleiodoscopic foliage in many different leaf patterns and color combinations. It's fun to grow your own plants from seed and watch the fascinating designs and shapes develop. The first pair of leaves is solid green, but stored in the coleus "computer" are many different color and pattern forms that start showing with the second pair of leaves. Rich salmon, bright rose, velvety crimson and glowing gold shades are interlaced or edged with green and other tints.

Plant coleus as a border along the shady side of your house or property line; in shadowy areas near trees; in pots, planter boxes or hanging baskets on shady patios. If some of these shady areas merge into sunshine, coleus will thrive in either.

Impatiens - are a top choice to light up shady sections of your yard. Flower breeders in recent years have worked wonders with this old-fashioned flower and now impatiens rank third in popularity. Impatiens are dazzling in hanging baskets and pots on shady porches and patios. They are outstanding for uniform plants and bloom non-stop from early summer to frost. Choose separate shades – pink, scarlet, salmon, orange and white – or brilliant mixtures. The luminous colors look like neon lights flashing in shady areas of your garden. Impatiens are carefree, too. You don't have to pick off faded flowers. New ones keep coming continuously to replenish the floral display.

Fibrous-rooted Begonias - are so versatile they grow well and bloom under almost any light conditions, from sun to dappled shade near trees or in areas that get sunlight only a few hours a day. Some have green leaves, others bronze, to heighten the beautiful display. You'll find the hybrid fibrous-rooted begonias ideal for beds, borders, edgings and rock gardens. Plant them also in window boxes, pots and other containers. Begonias provide dependable bloom all summer long and are rarely damaged by wind, rain or pests.

Vinca Rosea (Periwinkle) - is becoming increasingly popular for sunny to shady spots. This attractive flower can really perk up your garden, patio or window boxes, especially toward late summer when other varieties may look "tired." The single blossoms one inch across are pert and showy in their color range from snow-white to pink and rose shades. Some have contrasting eyes winking at you. All the colors are set off by the glossy, dark-green leaves that stay fresh looking all season. Vinca thrives under a wide range of light and soil conditions and is hardly ever bothered by insects or diseases.

Coleus, impatiens, fibrous-rooted begonias and vinca rosea all need an indoor head start at least eight to ten weeks before the last expected spring frost in your area. Sprinkle the seeds evenly over the surface of a sterilized planting material and cover very lightly. Begonia seeds are so fine you only need to press them in. Keep the planting material slightly moist at moderately warm (70° to 75°F) room temperature. Bottom heat from a radiator or heating cable improves the germination of the seeds but don't let the planting material dry out. Shoots usually start appearing in about two weeks but may take longer.

Grow the seedlings on a sunny windowsill or four to eight inches below plant lights turned on 12 to 16 hours each day or in a greenhouse. Transplant the seedlings to roomier quarters when they have at least two pairs of leaves or are large enough to handle. Move the plants to the permanent outdoor location after all danger of frost and the soil is warm. Toughen them first – harden off – for about a week by putting them outdoors in a shady place during the daytime and sheltering them at night. All are also available as transplants.

Source: Jim Schmidt, University of Illinois

Description - The striped cucumber beetle is about 1/5 inch long with black head and wings striped with yellow and black. The spotted cucumber beetle is about 1/4 inch long and has a black head and black legs with a yellowish-green body and wing covers with 12 distinct black spots. The larva stage of both species live in the soil and feed on the underground parts of plants.

Habits - Cucumber beetles overwinter as adults in sheltered places, but only the striped cucumber beetle overwinters in large numbers in Illinois. The spotted cucumber beetle migrates in from the south. In spring they feed on nearby vegetation of fields and woodlots before suddenly appearing in large numbers on vine or bean crops. Adult beetles lay eggs in the soil at the base of the plant on which they are feeding. The larvae hatch and feed on roots for 2-4 weeks before pupating and emerging as adults. There are several generations per year.

Damage & Concerns - Cucumber beetles are chewing insects and may attack cucumber, bean, melon, squash and pumpkin. In addition, the spotted cucumber beetle feeds on asparagus, corn and eggplant. These insects are destructive to new seedlings just pushing through the soil. Later in the season, the adults feed on leaves, blossoms and fruits. As they feed on crops, cucumber beetles may spread bacterial wilt and mosaic, two serious diseases of vine crops. Either the disease or the feeding may cause serious damage or complete crop loss.

Control - Non-chemical: At planting time in spring, cover vine plants with polyester row covers to protect them from cucumber beetles. Remove row covers when blossoms appear to allow pollinating insects access to the flowers.

Weather Channel: Gardening

Lots of weather related information for gardeners from last freeze maps to planting maps.
http://www.weather.com/gardening/

March - April

Clean up debris from winter Cultivation (aerifying, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing Vertical mowing or dethatching (late in month; late summer is better) Preemergence annual (i.e.crabgrass) control (or early May)

May

Cultivation (aerifying, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing Preemergence annual weed (i.e. crabgrass) control (or late April) Fertilization (1 pound of nitrogen/1,000 square feet) Postemergence broadleaf weed (i.e. dandelions)control to actively growing weeds Overseeding, establishment (early in month; late summer is better)

June

Postemergence broadleaf weed control (avoid hot weather) Light fertilization (with irrigation); controlled-release nitrogen suggested

Party Streamers Beat Tissue for Homemade Seed Tapes

An Oregon Master Gardener used toilet paper to make ready-to-plant seed tapes (similar to the tapes available commercially for only a few types of seeds). With pre-spaced seeds on a tape, thinning of seedlings (for example, carrot plants) is minimized. Nearly 10 years later, Pat Patterson of Richmond, British Columbia, gives details of his improvements on this method:

Purchase a roll of crepe paper party streamers (white is good). Try to find the kind that's not wrinkled; you might say that it is "pre-stretched" crepe paper. Cut a length as wide as your planting beds (my raised beds are four feet wide). Roll it up and cut in half lengthwise; you could use the full width, but half-width is more like the commercially available seed tapes. Make a paste of flour and water - as many of us learned to do in school. Stretch a cut streamer across a table and place the seeds in a spoon. Put the glue in a plastic squeeze bottle (the type used to dispense mustard or ketchup) and place a thin line of glue along the tape. Using a pointed knifeblade, flick seeds onto the glue line at the desired spacing. Cover with the other half of the cut streamer and press the sides together. Allow to dry before planting.

Pruning Trees

Late winter or early spring are great times to prune trees. You can see the structure of the tree and remove branches. Correct pruning will improve the life of the tree. For a pruning factsheet call 773-233-0476.

Easter Lily

Select an Easter lily with several (1 or 2) open flowers and several unopened buds. Plant should bloom over a 2-3 week period. Call for lily factsheet.

Browning of Evergreens

Browning of evergreens on the south or southwest side of plants because of frequent freeze/thaw cycles and rapid cooling and thawing rates occur on parts of the evergreen that receive the most sunlight. Do not rush to prune out browned areas in early spring because there may be branches that still have living buds that will produce new green growth.

Digging Spring Flowering Bulbs

If you would like to transplant spring-flowering bulbs, wait until the foliage has turned yellow and begins to die. (Most tulip and daffodil varieties die back in early to mid-June.) The bulbs may be replanted immediately. If they can't be planted, the bulbs should be stored until fall. Once dug, thoroughly dry the bulbs for 2 to 3 weeks. Then place the bulbs in mesh bags and store in a cool (50 to 65°F), dry place until fall planting. Inspect the bulbs several times during the summer and discard any which show signs of decay.

If there are bare areas in your spring-flowering bulb garden, place plastic or wooden stakes in the area to indicate where bulbs should be planted this fall.

March

In the ornamental garden:

Start annual flowers indoors from seed in mid-March.

Apply dormant oil sprays to control scale insects when temperatures are above 40 degrees.

Prune any dead wood from trees and shrubs.

Prune shrubs that bloom in the summer or fall.

Remove mulch from around spring bulbs when growth is one inch high.

Have your lawnmower professionally serviced.

Hosta can be divided before growth starts.

Save film canisters to store seeds in.

Check tools for indications of rust; remove with steel wool.

Use sections of foam held in place with insulating tape to cover an uncomfortable tool handle.

Buy an old colander at a garage sale. Add a couple of chains and you've got a hanging basket with drainage.

In the edible garden:

Prune fruit trees before bloom, thereby increasing light penetration and fruit quality.

Remove mulch over strawberries when they start to grow; early removal can expose plants to cold snaps.

Plan your vegetable garden on paper.

Allow soil to dry before digging. Digging wet soil can cause it to compact, resulting in "concrete."

Sow radish & lettuce; try alternating rows of red and green lettuce; it not only tastes great, but looks good.

Improve clay soils by adding 3-4 inches of organic matter and till or dig in.

Finish garden cleanup tasks that you didn't get to last fall.

Start varieties of tomatoes indoors for planting in May.

Try heirloom varieties of tomatoes - factsheet available.

Putting water filled plastic milk jugs around new seedlings will help them through cold nights because heat will radiate from the sun warmed water.

Plant onion sets and early potatoes in late March.

Grow straw potatoes - factsheet available.

Test your soil. For soil testing booklet call 773-233-0476.

In the interior garden:

Repot houseplants; especially those that are rootbound.

Increase watering as houseplants show growth spurts.

Pot up caladium bulbs for colorful foliage this summer.

April

In the ornamental garden:

Buying bare-root trees? Best are those with extensive root systems versus top growth.

Soak the roots of bare-root trees and shrubs overnight before planting.

Wash down your plastic garden furniture.

Plant disease resistant crabapples. For a list of disease resistant crabapple trees call 773-233-0476.

Sharpen lawn mower blades.

Plant trees and shrubs to help reduce noise levels around your home.

Plant a tree. National Arbor Day is April 30, 1999. Check out the National Arbor Day Foundation Web site at http://www.arborday.org

Fertilize trees with nitrogen fertilizers. For free factsheet on fertilizing shade & ornamental trees call 773-233-0476.

Join a garden club.

Plant evergreen shrubs along north side of your home to protect against winter winds and reduce heating bills.

Divide and replant snowdrops as soon as the flowers fade.

Use barrier fabrics with newly planted shrubs to reduce weed growth.

Prune roses and remove dead or crossing stems.

Prune spring flowering shrubs after flowering.

Clean used flower pots in a bleach solution (2 tablespoons of bleach in one quart of water).

Apply pre-emergent crabgrass control in late April or early May. Crabgrass will germinate when soil temperatures are greater than 55 to 60 degrees F for 7 to 10 consecutive days.

Plant pansies for early season color.

Remove winter mulches from roses and perennials as temperatures warm.

Clean lawn of rocks, twigs and leaves before mowing.

Overseeding of lawns can be done now. Best time is late summer because of less weed competition.

Sign up for Home Lawn Self-Study Course. This three lesson course, written by University of Illinois horticulturists covers all the basics of lawn care: seeding, sodding, watering, mowing, fertilization, weeds, grubs and lawn diseases. To enroll in this $10 course, call 773-233-0476. You will receive one lesson a week for three weeks.

Watch for Eastern Tent caterpillars making silk tents in crabapple trees. Cut nests out of trees at night when caterpillars are inside nest.

In the edible garden:

Grow a rounded form of carrot like "Thumbelina." It does well in heavy, clay soils.

Plant carrots, radishes, spinach, peas, turnips, beets, kohlrabi and rutabaga.

Grow potatoes in a barrel or large container - factsheet available.

Keep rabbits out of the vegetable garden with a chicken wire fence. - factsheet available.

Set out broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprout transplants.

Cover young plants with a layer or two of newspaper for frost protection.

"Harden off" plants started indoors before transplanting outdoors.

Water transplants with a starter fertilizer.

Plant asparagus and rhubarb.

Cover newly planted seed with vermiculite instead of soil. Vermiculite will not crust over like soil.

Plant main crop potatoes.

Start a compost pile - booklet available.

Plant strawberries one to one and one-half feet apart.

Start tomato and pepper seedlings indoors in early April.

Lay black plastic over soil before planting early warm-season vegetables. Soil under plastic will average 10 degrees warmer than soil not covered.

Plant mustard, collard and turnip greens.

In the interior garden:

Fertilize houseplants as day length increases.

Promote even growth of houseplants by turning plants every two to three days.

Keep Easter lilies out of direct sunlight and warm drafts. Remove flowers as soon as they die - factsheet available.

Repot houseplants now - factsheet available.

Start an indoor worm composting bin. Great project for kids! - factsheet available.

May

Edible:

Tomatoes started from seed can be planted in the garden when they have 5-7 leaves.

Make cages for tomato plants. Cages should be four to five feet high.

Deep transplanting is good for tomatoes. Remove all leaves that would be under the soil. New roots will sprout along the stem.

Protect transplants from cutworms with collars. Cut strips of cardboard 2 inches wide by 8 inches long and staple them into a band and place around plants. Press collar about one inch into the soil.

Potatoes and green peppers produce better when grown over a white plastic mulch.

Harvest green onions, lettuce and radishes from early garden.

Cut or pinch off flowers in new strawberry plantings.

Continue to harvest mature plantings of asparagus and rhubarb so they will keep growing.

Cover tender vegetables with floating row covers (Reemay) when frost is predicted. Will provide protection down to 28°F.

Check to see if bees are visiting blossoms on fruit trees. Numerous bee visits mean a good fruit set.

Plant several varieties of sweet corn with different maturity dates.

Harden off vegetable transplants before planting.

Begin spray schedule to control diseases and insects on fruit trees.

Plant melons, peppers, eggplant, sweet potatoes and other warm season vegetables.

Mark the handle of your spade or hoe in inches for a handy measuring device for row width and planting distances. Paint or tape the measurements on the handle. A coat of varnish can make the marks last longer.

Ornamentals:

Plant trees, shrubs and fruit trees.

Make a tomato cage birdbath. Buy a tomato cage, a large plastic flower pot saucer, morning glory seeds and string. Criss-cross string through the cage. Place saucer on top of cage. Plant morning glory seeds around cage. Fill saucer with water.

Finish uncovering roses and tender perennials.

As leaves emerge on roses spray with appropriate fungicide every 7-10 days to prevent blackspot.

Prune most spring flowering shrubs like forsythia, viburnum and lilacs after bloom.

Allow spring bulb foliage to die naturally. Leaves manufacture the food resources that are stored in the bulb for a repeat showing next year.

Plant multiflora petunias. They withstand storms and heat better than other types of petunias.

Remove and destroy overwintering bagworms from trees and shrubs.

Do not refuel a gasoline powered engine when it is hot or running. The exhaust could ignite gasoline. Let the engine cool 5 minutes before refueling.

Sharpen your lawn mower blade monthly since a dull blade can pull grass seedlings from the soil instead of cutting them.

Plant annuals, perennial flowers and herbs near the end of May.

Brighten up your front porch or patio with containers. Container gardening factsheet available.

Choose plants that are easy to maintain. Plants that do not need "deadheading" include begonias, impatiens, coleus, alyssum, ageratum, lobelia, vinca and salvia.

Mulch around newly planted trees and shrubs. This practice reduces weeds, reduces fluctuations in soil temperature, retains moisture, prevents damage from lawn mowers and looks attractive.

Save money on mulch materials by using 1 to 2 inches of wood chips before spreading 2 inches of decorative shredded bark. Wood chips are less expensive than shredded bark and last longer, too. Keep mulch several inches away from the trunks of trees and shrubs so air can circulate near the trunk discouraging diseases and so that rodents will not feed on the bark.

Grow statice, globe amaranth and strawflowers for drying. Factsheet available.

When you visit gardens and arboreta, take your camera and note pad with you. Plan now for changes you will make in your landscape.

Lawns maintained at the correct height resist disease and weed infestation. Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue should be kept between 2 to 3 inches in height. Mow frequently, removing no more than one third of the blade at each cutting.

To better evaluate your gardening successes, keep weather records along with garden records. The most important items to report are daily minimum and maximum temperatures, precipitation, cloud cover and frost occurrences.

Don't spray pesticides on a windy day. Not only is pesticide wasted, it may endanger other crops, animals or people.

Remember, some insecticides cannot be used as preventatives, but are only effective if they come in contact with the insect. Do not spray them until you are sure you have an insect problem. Use all pesticides with caution. Always read and follow the directions on the label and buy only as much as you need.

Any ants crawling around on garden plants may indicate the presence of aphids. A hard spray of water will remove them from plants.

Pinch back annuals when 4 to 6 inches high to promote bushy growth. Some that require pinching are zinnias, petunias and salvia.

Use impatiens in shady areas. Begonias, coleus, ageratum, salvia and vinca prefer light shade (5 to 6 hours of sunlight.)

Set petunia plants among fading tulips or daffodils to hide the unsightly wilting leaves. After the bulb foliage begins to fade, you can tie the leaves in gentle knots to make them neat, but don't remove them until they have dried completely.

Make a support rod for your hanging baskets using an old mop or broom handle. Place two sturdy hooks into your porch or patio roof about as far apart as the handle is long. Suspend the rod with two equal lengths of chain. The rod can hold several hanging baskets, depending on size.

Put your tools away at the end of the day; clean them and hang them up, if possible. Keep the cutting edge sharp for easier use.

Avoid deep cultivation of evergreens that might wound roots. Evergreens have many roots near the soil surface.

Regularly water newly planted trees and shrubs during the first year or two after planting to help establish a good root system. They need at least one inch of water each week.

Prune out winter killed wood on trees and shrubs by cutting back to green wood after new growth begins.

Identify garden insects before spraying with an insecticide.

Cut off dead flower heads of tulips and daffodils.

Grass clippings can be used as a mulch in flower beds and vegetable gardens if allowed to dry well before use. Fresh, damp, grass clippings will mat and may attract pests. Never use clippings from a lawn that has been treated with a herbicide.

Use perennials in the garden. They are long-lived and require fairly low maintenance. They can be divided and provide additional plants for your garden.

Indoors:

Water dry houseplants before fertilizing and never fertilize wilted plants. Adding fertilizer to a dry root ball burns the roots, damaging or killing the plant.

Divide indoor plants when new growth starts in spring. Root cuttings during spring and summer when the plant is actively growing.

Avoid chilling houseplants by watering them with cold tap water. Let water stand until it reaches room temperature.

Avoid over potting African violets. They bloom better in small pots.

Cacti will bloom sooner if they are root bound in a small pot.

June

Edible:

Make a homemade grow bag. Fill a large, heavy-duty, plastic trash bag with a soil mix (Pro-mix) and plant a tomato.

Plant pumpkins in early June.

Carve your child's name in the skin of a young pumpkin. Name will expand as pumpkin grows.

Check cucumbers for cucumber beetles. Beetles can cause a bacterial wilt disease. Cover with a floating row cover (Reemay) until they flower.

Stake tomato plants with four to five foot stakes.

In late June stop harvesting asparagus and fertilize.

Plant cucumber varieties 'Spacemaster' and 'Salad Bush' for small gardens or containers.

Harvest peas when pods are plump. After harvesting replant the area.

Catch earwigs and sowbugs by trapping them in moistened, rolled up newspapers. The earwigs and sowbugs will hide in the paper during the day. Dispose of the newspapers.

Water the garden with the equivalent of one inch of water per week.

Mulch tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. Mulches help keep down weeds and conserve moisture. Different colored mulch materials reflect different wave lengths of light and have produced noticeable results. Tomato harvest increased significantly in both size and quality when plants were grown over red plastic. Gardeners Supply, 128 Intervale Road, Burlington, VT 05401, offers red plastic mulch for tomatoes.

Do not walk through a garden after watering or rain. This can spread disease.

Prune and tie "staked" tomato plants - factsheet available.

Plant beans, cucumbers, squash, sweet corn and late tomatoes.

Set cages over tomatoes after applying mulch.

Harvest strawberries.

Do not worry about fruit drop on fruit trees. It is a natural occurrence.

To protect bees that pollinate many of our crop plants, spray pesticides in the evening after bees have returned to their hives.

Do not slice a tomato until you are ready to eat it. According to USDA research a tomato loses its aroma and flavor just three minutes after slicing.

Make a sunflower room for the kids. Draw a square in the soil and plant sunflowers around the square. Leave an open space for kids to go in their outdoor room.

Make a vegetable cleaning box. Replace the bottom of a wooden box with chicken wire. Place just picked vegetables in box and rinse off.

Side-dress eggplants, tomatoes and peppers with fertilizer when they set their first fruit.

Keep cucumbers consistently moist to keep them from becoming bitter.

Tear newspaper into 1 inch strips and use at 3 to 4 inch depths as a mulch around vegetables.

Ornamentals:

Grow scented geraniums. They make great air fresheners.

Apply mulches to roses, annuals and perennials.

Stake perennials as needed before they become broken or damaged.

Bats can be an important weapon for insect control. A brown bat can eat 3,000-7,000 insects per day/night. Attract bats with bat houses. For free plants write to the Virginia Gardener, Department of Horticulture, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA 24061-0327.

Termites will rarely attack wood chips near a home's foundation. To be safe limit the depth of wood chips to 4 inches around a building's foundation.

Shrubs and perennials look nice as foundation plantings, but rain may not reach under the eaves, so you may need to water frequently.

Climbing roses don't really climb - they have long canes that require support. You'll need to loosely tie the canes to trellises with broad strips of material. Do not use wire, it can damage the cane.

Do not add ashes from charcoal grills to garden soil. Chemicals are used in the briquette bonding.

When you buy container grown nursery stock, check the root ball and make sure it is not bound too tightly. A mass of circling roots will stay that way even after it is in the ground.

Harvest herbs just before flowering. The leaves contain the maximum essential oils. Cut herbs early on a sunny day.

Bronze-leaves varieties of begonia do particularly well in full sun. Keep the foliage dry and provide good air circulation around the plants.

For hanging baskets in cool, shady locations, use trailing tuberous begonias, ferns, impatiens or fibrous rooted begonias in combination with trailing plants, such as English ivy.

Bug zappers kill more beneficial insects than mosquitoes. They also attract insects.

Remove old flower heads from bedding plants to prolong the period of bloom.

Mulch clematis roots with an organic mulch 4 to 6 inches deep. They like their roots cool.

Make your own hummingbird food. Boil four cups of water and stir in one cup of sugar. Cool and fill feeder. Keep leftover food in refrigerator.

Do not use peat moss as a mulch. When it dries it becomes impermeable to rain. It's best to mix it with soil.

Pinch back annuals at 4 to 6 inches high. Helps to promote bushy growth.

Do not allow children to ride on or drive riding lawn mowers. Such mowers are more dangerous than they appear. Always disengage the mower blades and set the brake, or turn off the engine before getting off for any reason.

A mail box mounted on a post in the garden can hold plant ties, labels, small tools and other necessities often forgotten when out in the garden.

A plastic-mesh bag filled with marbles set inside a container holds flower arrangements beautifully. Set the bag in the container and cover it with water and the marbles will grip flower stems firmly without injuring them.

Plant caladiums. They like 71-85°F days and 66-75°F nights.

Indoors:

If you keep your houseplants indoors all summer, keep them out of the draft of the air conditioner. Plants react to an air conditioner's cool air in various ways. Some drop their leaves, others don't bloom well and some fail to bloom all together.

Rubber plants, Eureka palms, Peace lilies, Spider plants and pothos can make your indoor environment healthier by removing pollutants from the air.

Don't rush to move your houseplants outdoors. Cool weather can cause leaf drop.

The science of home food storage seems to be riddled with rumors and old wives tales. The most dangerous food storage myth is probably: You can not put hot food in the refrigerator because it will spoil. Think about that statement......how rational is that train of thought?

Many callers on the Consumer-Call-In line present this scenario. They left a pot of soup or stew on the stove to cool and forgot about it until hours later or even the next morning. Is the food still safe to eat? The answer to this question is always unequivocally, no!! Then there are moans and groans about the time it took to make the dish and, of course, the expense.

What is the safe way to cool a large pot of soup, chili, stew or whatever? The safest place is in the refrigerator. Stove top cooling in the pot is a long, slow and dangerous process. First, cookware is made of materials designed to conduct and hold heat. A hot pot of chili, for instance, can take hours to cool in the refrigerator. The food could, in fact, spoil or become unsafe before it is cool. In this case, refrigeration did not cause the food to spoil, rather, the slow cooling allowed harmful bacteria to grow and multiply.

Mold, yeast and bacteria travel in the air. Bacteria will not grow unless it has ideal growing conditions. Warm temperature, moisture and a food supply are essential. Some bacteria need air (or oxygen) to grow while others grow best in the absence of air. These are called anaerobic bacteria, the most deadly is Clostridium Botulinum. You can actually create a near oxygen-free environment with a covered pot full of steaming hot food that sits on the stove for hours. To cool it down quickly you have several safe options.

1. Transfer the food to shallow glass or plastic storage containers no more than 2-3 inches deep. Glass and plastic are poor conductors of heat and the food will cook quickly. Immediately place the containers of hot food in the refrigerator, leaving space around each dish for circulating air.

2. You can chill the food in an ice water bath to cool it down quickly. To make an ice water bath, set the pot of hot food in the sink and run cold water until it is about half way up the side of the pot. Add a couple of trays of ice cubes and stir frequently, about every 5 to 10 minutes. In about 30 minutes the food should be cool. Reheat leftovers to a steaming 165 degrees F.

3. Refrigerate cooked foods as soon after the meal as possible. Cooked food should not remain at room temperature for no more than two hours after preparation.

Refrigeration helps to keep food fresh. Cool temperatures preserve nutritional value and quality. Food will taste better and it will be better for you. Keep it safe.

Sanitation/Safety Problems in Restaurants

How Safe Is It To Eat Out?

Chicagoland restaurants have been getting a lot of bad press lately. Investigative reporters from local news stations have been exposing insect and rodent problems as well as employees who eat off customers plates with their fingers and a host of other violations. With Americans spending more and more food dollars, (40 percent) eating away from home, our health and safety literally rests in the hands of the restaurant industry.

According to a resource at the Chicago Department of Public Health, restaurants in Chicago are inspected once or twice a year. Although Health Department laws say that inspection reports must be posted, there is no penalty for not posting, so don't expect to see any. There is a way to get this information. Under the Freedom of Information Act, you can request a copy of any restaurant's last inspection report. Put your request in writing and the Health Department will send you your very own copy in 10-14 working days.

In the meantime, try to become familiar with food safety guidelines for the commercial sale of food. Procedures for restaurants are not the same as the guidelines for home food handling. If you see roaches, spider webs, rodents or unsanitary practices by employees, it is your duty to report these incidents to the Health Department. Clip and save the following information for future references.

Let's make eating out safer for everyone.

How to Report Food Poisoning or Unsafe Food Handling to the Chicago Department of Health

• Get the full name and address of the restaurant, food vendor or grocery store in violation. Have this information ready when you phone.

• Call the Chicago Department of Public Health, Food and Dairy Department at (312) 747-5000. Explain that you want to file a complaint against a restaurant, delicatessen, sidewalk vendor or other commercial or institutional kitchen.

• Give a brief explanation of the problem and any other information requested by the agent. Giving your name and address is optional unless you are reporting foodborne illness. The information will remain confidential.

What Will Happen Next?

Restaurants and other food vendors are normally inspected one to two times per year. After receiving a complaint, inspectors will visit the establishment 2-5 times per week. They will check on items listed in your complaint as well as other possible violations.

The Board of Health inspector then writes up a report. Under the Freedom of Information Act, you are entitled to a copy of this report and information as to the action taken by the Board of Health.

To get a copy of the inspection report you must make a written request. In your letter list the name of the food establishment or vendor and the date you phone in the complaint. Allow 15 days from the time of your complaint before requesting this information.

In 10-14 working days a report will be mailed to you. Send your request to the following address. If you live outside of Chicago, check the phone book for the local health department in your area.

Sandra L. Alfred, R.S.
Food and Dairy Protection Division
1224 West VanBuren, 6th floor
Chicago, Illinois 60607

Have you ever wondered what the date on a food package represents? It can certainly be confusing. Most major food companies print an 800 number on the label to answer your questions about the food product. Check the date on the product label. If manufacturers use open dating, you can get a good idea about product freshness.

Open dating refers to calendar dates that are imprinted or stamped on a food label. In open dating, dates are stated alphanumerically such as Nov. 25. They may be stated numerically such as 11-25 or 11/25. The dates are designed to give consumers an idea of how long a product will remain wholesome and safe.

Open dates should be used as guidelines rather than absolutes. An example is the date on a carton of milk and other dairy products. Many people pour fresh milk down the drain because they do not understand what the date on the carton means. This date is a sell by date not a use by date. Generally the milk or milk product is good to use 7 to 10 days after the sell by date on the carton.

The practice of dating food packages is a voluntary one. Product manufacturers are not required by law to place dates on products, except for baby foods. All infant foods and formulas must carry an expiration date. No packaged food product should be given to a child after the expiration date on the product label.

Four types of open dates commonly appear on food labels. The dates are estimates, based on common food handling practices. If food is handled or stored improperly, shelf life can be shortened, thus changing the freshness date.

• Pull date or sell by date. This is the last date the manufacturer recommends sale of the product. Usually the date allows for additional storage and use time at home. If the food sells on the pull date, it still can be eaten later.

• Freshness date or quality assurance date. This date suggests how long the manufacturer thinks the food will remain at peak quality. The label might read, "Best if used by October, 1999." However, the product still may be used later but it may no longer meet the manufacturer's quality guidelines. A freshness date has a different meaning than the word fresh printed on the label. The term fresh often suggests that a food is raw or unprocessed. Some non-food items also have a freshness date, such as cut flowers in the grocery store. Always buy flowers and foods dated furthest from the freshness date. They will last longer.

• Pack date or package date. The date the food was packaged or processed. Consumers can then decide which package is most fresh, or even whether freshness is important in a certain situation. Fresh meat is labeled with a pack date and sometimes fruit is too. For example, you may not want to purchase a package of ground beef packaged three days ago when there is a product that was packaged today.

• Expiration date. This is the last date the product should be eaten. It might read, "Do not use after October, 1998." State governments regulate these dates for perishable foods, such as milk and eggs. The Food and Drug Administration regulates the expiration dates on infant formula only. This is a date when food is no longer flavorful, useful or safe. Yeast has an expiration date. After stamped on date, it will no longer raise dough. Always discard food that has passed the expiration date.
  

Spring is near. As you plan your garden, give serious consideration to including a patch of greens. They are easy to grow and well worth the effort. For selection of varieties and planting information visit our WEB site, Watch Your Garden Grow (http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/veggies/) or call the Urban Gardening Program at 773-233-0476.

Greens are cruciferous vegetables. Upon maturity, mustard greens, turnip greens, collard greens and kale require cooking. They are hearty greens loaded with beta carotene, the plant source of Vitamin A. They also contain goodly amounts of Vitamin C and Vitamin E, that bolster the immune system and protect against ravishing diseases. Greens are also a good source of calcium, potassium, iron and fiber.

What are cruciferous vegetables? They are vegetables in the cabbage family including broccoli, asparagus, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi and cabbage. These vegetables contain compounds called "indoles" which are protective against cancer. Years of research have been done on cruciferous vegetables. There is a large database that confirms cruciferous vegetables can substantially reduce the risk of disease, specifically cancer.

Still not convinced? Studies also suggest that including these greens in your diet may prevent damage to DNA and slow the aging process. In women, metabolic processes are regulated, that help to eliminate the bad (and maintain the good) estrogen, therefore substantially reducing the risk of breast cancer.

As a result of these studies, the National Cancer Institute, the American Cancer Society, the National Academy of Sciences and the U.S. Department of Agriculture are reaching out to the American public advocating the daily consumption of these vegetables. These greens have long been a staple in the Southern and African American diet but the average consumption is only 4.5 pounds per year.

The greatest hesitation seems to be in how to prepare greens. The young tender leaves can be eaten raw in fresh salads but the older mature leaves require simmering or steaming.

Southerners traditionally season them with ham hocks or salt pork, but this method adds too much salt and fat to the pot. Instead, season these nutrient-rich leaves with herbs, spices, garlic, hot peppers, olive oil, onions and flavored vinegars and maybe a few pieces of smoked turkey.

If you do not garden, visit a farmstand, or roadside stand and buy young tender greens with small leaves. Greens are also available canned or frozen. To prepare fresh greens for cooking follow the simple instructions in Health & Household Tips.

Preparing Greens For Cooking

1. Pick through the leaves, discarding withered or yellowing leaves. Also remove large, tough stems.

2. Run a sink full of cool water. Add the greens and wash in several changes to remove grit and soil that may be clinging to them. Drain and set aside.

3. For collard greens, stack a dozen or so leaves, roll tightly and then cut the roll crosswise into one inch strips. Collards take longer to cook than mustard or turnip greens. Now they are ready to cook. Use your favorite recipe or the one below.

Mixed Greens with Sweet Red Peppers

1 pound collard greens
1 pound mustard or turnip greens
2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced
1 small onion, chopped
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups chicken broth (canned or fresh)
1 sweet red pepper, chopped*
salt to taste

1. Wash and prepare the greens as directed above. Keep the collard greens separate from the turnips or mustards, because they go into the pot first. Leave the mustard or turnip green leaves whole or tear into pieces, if desired.

2. Heat the oil in a large stock pot. Add the onions and saute 2-3 minutes.

3. Add the garlic and saute two minutes longer. Be careful not to brown the garlic, or it will become bitter.

4. Stir in the chicken broth and pepper flakes and bring to a boil.

5. Add the collard greens, using a long-handled spoon to turn the strips over in the boiling broth. Reduce the heat to medium, cover the pot and continue to simmer for 15 minutes.

6. Add the mustard or turnip greens. Cover and return to a boil.

7. Stir the greens and continue to cook for 30 minutes or until tender (depending on the maturity of the greens).

8. Add the chopped sweet red pepper during the last ten minutes of cooking. Season with salt to taste.

Serves 4
* another source of beta carotene

Recycling Old Toothbrushes

Sterilize old toothbrushes by washing in warm soapy water and rinsing in one quart of water mixed with one tablespoon chlorine bleach. Now they are ready for other uses.

• Clean artificial flowers and plants with an old toothbrush that has been dipped in sudsy water.
• Use the handles from old toothbrushes to stake small plants.
• Use old toothbrushes for grooming eyebrows.
• A clean, old toothbrush is good for manicures and pedicures. It is gentle, yet effective.
• Use a toothbrush to clean combs or hair clippers: just dip it in alcohol and scrub each side of the comb or the teeth of hair clippers.
• Use a toothbrush to clean around the faucets and between the tiles in the bathroom. Dip in a commercial product designed to dissolve mineral deposits and scrub.
• Clean keypads on telephones, computer keyboards or calculators.
• Clean costume jewelry.
• Use a toothbrush dipped in a 50/50 solution of water and vinegar to remove salt lines where the sole meets the leather on shoes and boots.
• Use a toothbrush dipped in soapy water to clean the can opener blade. Make sure it is unplugged.
• Keep a toothbrush dipped in liquid detergent to scrub dirt rings on collars before washing.
• Use a toothbrush to remove lint from velcro fasteners.

You Say Tomato....

Tomatoes are a favorite among small plot gardeners and nothing tastes better than a truly vine ripened tomato. Nutritionists have always known tomatoes were good for you, now there is research based information as to why.

Tomatoes are packed with Vitamin C, potassium and beta carotene. Tomatoes are also a source of lycopene, a substance which has been found to help prevent some forms of cancer, especially prostate cancer. Tomatoes generally fall into three categories, slicing round tomatoes, plum tomatoes and cherry tomatoes. Plant tomatoes most suited for how you will use them.

Plum tomatoes are meaty, eggplant-shaped and may be red or yellow. They are excellent for sauce making, canning and pizzas. Slicing tomatoes are large round varieties which hold more juice and seeds. They are perfect for eating raw in a wide variety of ways. Cherry tomatoes are generally served whole, although they can be cut in half and sauteed in any dish.

Dozens of varieties of tomatoes are available that come in a wide range of sizes, colors and shapes. A single tomato plant will grow well in a large flower pot or bucket. The point is, if you do not plant anything else, plant a tomato and eat them often.

Nutrient Information

Serving size, one cup raw
Calories 24
Protein 1.1 grams
Carbohydrates 5.3 grams
Fat 0.3 grams
Dietary fiber 1 gram
Vitamin A 1,133 IU
Vitamin C 22 mg
Potassium 254 mg.

For more information on tomatoes, visit our website, Watch Your Garden Grow at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu

Did you know...

...there are two kinds of fiber – water-soluble and insoluble? Studies have shown that increasing foods high in water-soluble fiber can lower your blood cholesterol thus reducing your risk of heart disease and stroke. These foods include oatmeal, all kinds of dried beans and peas, apples, pears, oat bran cereal and some vegetables. Foods containing insoluble fiber are helpful in preventing constipation and maintaining a healthy digestive system. Insoluble fiber is found in abundance in whole wheat products, dried beans, fruits and vegetables.

Did you know...

...breakfast is trendy among older people? According to a report in Environmental Nutrition, people who eat breakfast regularly may actually live longer, but some Americans are not doing well in this area. Between 1965 and 1991 the number of breakfast eaters dropped from 86 percent of U.S. adults to only 75 percent. The good news is that Americans may be eating more wholesome at breakfast as more people choose whole grains, bagels and fruit instead of the artery clogging bacon, eggs and white toast of yesteryear. According to the survey, those most likely to eat breakfast are the over 65 group and those least likely are in the under 30 group.

Did you know...

...old toothbrushes do a poor job of cleaning your teeth? According to a study conducted by Oral B, new toothbrushes remove 30 percent more plaque than worn brushes. So how often should you change your toothbrush? Experts recommend changing your toothbrush four times a year. As bristles wear they become less stiff, which prevents them from doing an effective cleaning job. Brush for at least two minutes, twice a day with a brush containing bristles that stand up straight and stiff. See Health & Household Tips for other uses for old toothbrushes.

Did you know...

...there is a tremendous difference between the effects of a sauna and a steam room? A sauna provides dry heat and is good for opening pores. This treatment helps the skin to perspire and release excess fluids. A steam room (or bath) provides moist heat, which is a natural way to exfoliate your skin, removing dead skin cells and rejuvenating the outer layer. According to specialists at the Gazelle Beauty and Day Spa, the maximum amount of time recommended in a sauna is 15 minutes and a steam bath 25 minutes.