Late August into early September is an ideal time for establishing lawns. Whether renovating or repairing an existing lawn plan on irrigating until some timely rains occur.

Choosing the proper grass for the site is an important step in establishing lawns. For areas primarily in full sun, Kentucky bluegrass is the most widely used grass, often mixed with a small percentage of perennial ryegrass. For sites with more shade, add the fine fescues, such as creeping red fescue.

Examine the seed package label to see exactly what is in the product. Look for named cultivars or varieties of each species. This generally assures a higher quality seed product. Having several cultivars of Kentucky bluegrass in a lawn, for example, helps assure resistance to problems such as disease. In most cases you get what you pay for when buying grass seed, so be careful with very inexpensive seed products, as they could be inferior quality.

Properly preparing the soil is critical, whether seeding or sodding. A large percentage of the serious lawn problems in our area can be traced back to poor soil preparation as the underlying cause. Many soils are high in clay and need to be amended prior to planting the lawn. Add additional loam soil or organic matter to the soil and mix thoroughly. Ideally, soil should be prepared to a depth of about 6 inches.

Once the site is prepared, the lawn can be planted. Follow the suggested seeding rate on the package, distributing seed evenly over the site. Lightly rake the surface. Maintain adequate moisture for the next 2 weeks or so to assure good germination. Lightly mulching with straw can help conserve moisture and protect the seedbed.

When sodding, purchase enough sod to cover the area. Use a blend of several cultivars, as is suggested for seed products. Stagger the edges as the sod is placed on the soil. Water thoroughly to assure the water moves through the sod into the soil below. Stay off the area until the sod has taken root securely into the soil.

Source: Bruce Spangenberg, Extension Educator, Horticulture, University of Illinois Extension

For many gardeners, the question of whether pressure treated lumber can be safely used as either borders or trim, the support for raised beds or stakes is of great importance. The main question is whether the chemicals used to treat the wood can end up in the food the gardener is growing.

What is treated lumber?

Pressure treated lumber is most commonly ponderosa pine or southern pine. A water-based pesticide, chromated copper arsenate (CCA), which is also known as inorganic arsenical, is forced into the wood under very high pressure. CCA, which contains chromium, copper and arsenic, is the most widely used wood preservative because copper is a very effective fungicide and arsenic is a very effective insecticide. Fungi and insects contribute to much of the decay of wood used in outdoor applications.

CCA is classified by the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as a "restricted use" pesticide. This means that it is for sale and use only by certified applicators.

Wood preserved with CCA is also known by its trade name, Wolmanized wood. It is commonly found at lumber yards and home improvement stores. It has a characteristic green to light-brown color.

Treated wood commonly includes a 30-40 year guarantee against decay, which is why it is often used for playgrounds, boat docks and gardening applications. A stamp on the end of a board indicates whether the wood is approved for use above ground or in-ground. Retail lumber stores should have copies of a Consumer Information Sheet, which is produced in cooperation with the EPA and which describes the safety precautions that should be followed when working with treated wood.

What is the concern with using treated wood in gardens?

There is no question that, while it happens very slowly, the chromium, copper and arsenic will leach from the treated wood into the soil. Many gardeners are mainly concerned about the leaching of the arsenic. They are concerned that their plants may absorb the arsenic and that the fruits or vegetables will then contain an unsafe amount of arsenic. Because of its chemical nature, chromium in soil is not usually absorbed by plants. Humans excrete excess copper, so even if plants did absorb high amounts of it, there is little chance for an overdose.

Arsenic poisoning can cause hair loss, diarrhea, asthma, skin cancer and other skin problems. It can also be fatal.

Some gardeners are additionally concerned about the general impacts on the environment, such as ground water pollution, that may result from the addition of arsenic to the soil.

Is arsenic found naturally in soil?

Yes, arsenic is commonly found at low concentrations in many parts of the environment. One kilogram (kg) of soil (about 2 lbs.) naturally contains between 1-20 milligrams (mg) of arsenic (1 mg equals 0.000035 oz.) A mg is 1/1,000 of a gram and 1 kg is 1,000 grams. A mg is, therefore, 1/1,000,000 of a kg, or one part per million (ppm). Most people's daily diet contains a few billionths of a gram of arsenic.

Do plants absorb arsenic from treated wood?

There are very opposite opinions regarding this question. Organic Gardening magazine has been very vocal in its opposition to the use of CCA treated wood. Studies have shown that in soils with arsenic concentrations of 200-300 ppm, plants will absorb about 1 ppm of arsenic. According to the Institute of Environmental Toxicology at Michigan State University, the risk that fruits or vegetables grown in gardens where treated wood has been used will contain an unsafe amount of arsenic is very small. The Institute further concluded that any arsenic that might be present in the fruits or vegetables would be far below the amount known to cause adverse effects in people.

A horticulture Extension agent for Texas A&M University has conducted a detailed study on the use of treated wood in raised bed gardens. In the April 15, 1993 issue of American Nurseryman, he reported that the amount of arsenic in soil samples 1 inch and 12 inches away (6 inches deep) from the treated wood in gardens between 6 months and 9 years old was between 6.2 and 14 ppm, which is considered to be within the normal range of 1-20 ppm. According to the Institute for Environmental Toxicology, plants growing within 6 inches of treated wood might absorb more arsenic than plants growing farther away from the wood.

His findings support those obtained by North Carolina State University researchers, who reported in the Forest Products Journal (September 1974), that grape plants growing near treated wood posts had no measurable increase in the amount of copper, chromium or arsenic in the fruit, leaf or stems of the plants. They also support the findings of United States Department of Agriculture researchers, who reported in the Journal of Environmental Quality (1979, Volume 8, No. 1), that arsenic and chromium in soil around treated 2 x 4 inch stakes that were in soil for about 30 years was not significantly higher than the amount naturally found in soils.

His findings are, however, contradicted by the findings of Dr. David E. Stilwell, of the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station. In the January 1997, issue of the Bulletin of Environmental Contamination & Toxicology, he reported alarmingly high levels of arsenic in the soil below backyard decks made of treated lumber. The EPA is currently studying Dr. Stilwell's findings but, as a result of many questions left unresolved by his report as well as the difficulty associated with transferring the findings of his research on decks that averaged about 325 square feet (or about 18 ft x 18 ft) requiring much more treated wood than would be used in a typical raised-bed garden, as well as the possibility that sawdust from the treated wood accumulated in the areas during construction of the decks and changes in the amount of precipitation that reaches the soil under the decks, has not identified a reason to change its position on the safety of CCA.

Much of the research on treated wood that suggests possible human health considerations has focused on workers who are exposed directly to CCA, to the sawdust from treated wood, or from burning treated wood in a fireplace. In other applications, such as playground equipment, both the United States Consumer Product Safety Commission and Consumer Reports have deemed treated wood safe.

Are there alternatives to using treated wood?

For those gardeners who wish to avoid the use of treated wood, in addition to alternative materials, they can reduce leaching of CCA by preparing treated wood with a waterproof sealant or by enclosing a raised bed garden with heavy plastic to separate the soil from the wood. Other options include:

• Use naturally decay resistant wood, such as eastern or western red cedar, northern white cedar, walnut, Osage orange, white oak, locust or redwood;

• Treat inexpensive non-decay resistant wood, such as pine, with linseed oil to extend the time it takes for it to decay;

• Use plastic lumber, concrete blocks, bricks or stone instead of wood.

Source: N. J. Smith-Sebasto, Ph.D., University of Illinois Extension State Specialist for Environmental Education

The idea of using corn gluten meal for weed control burst on the scene in the early 1990's after Dr. Nick Christians at Iowa State accidentally discovered its herbicidal properties while he was testing it for suppression of turf diseases. After several years of efficacy studies and product development, corn gluten meal has gained national attention as being the first effective "organic" herbicide. Corn gluten meal is not a registered pesticide because the U.S. EPA has granted an exemption for corn gluten meal as an herbicide.

Corn gluten meal is a product of the wet milling process. It is a pre-emergent herbicide which inhibits root formation during germination. It is currently labeled for control of crabgrass, barnyardgrass, foxtails (Setaria spp.), dandelion, lambsquarters, pigweed, purslane and smartweed. Data suggest it has at least some activity on an even wider variety of plants. It is safe to use on established turf. Do not use corn gluten meal in an area in which you are trying to establish turfgrass.

Research shows 50-60 percent control can be achieved in the first year when applied at 20 lbs. Per 1000 ft. Studies suggest that control is improved in successive years and as use rates increase. Currently it is sold as a dry product under various trade names, including Dynaweed, Safe 'N Simple, Earth Friendly, W.O.W.!, Corn Gluten Meal Herbicide and Propac. It is sold for the homeowner market in retail stores as Concern-Weed Prevention Plus. Until recently it was only offered in powder form. Now a granular form is available which can be more easily applied with Vikon spreaders, rotary and drop spreaders. Application rates vary from 12 to 20 lbs. per 1000 feet, once in early to mid-spring and another in early to mid-August. Since the corn gluten meal is about 10 percent nitrogen, this catches two flushes of crabgrass and spreads out the nitrogen effect. Two applications at 12 lbs/1000 ft. Will provide nearly 2.5 lb. N/1000 ft per year. The nitrogen is in a slow release form so there is little to no potential for foliar burn. Bulk orders cost about $950/ton; 50 lb. Bags run between $25 and $30. This is the same corn gluten meal sold at feed mills for animal feed; however, it is pelletized for easier and more uniform application.

Portions of at least two proteins in the corn gluten meal, called peptides, are the active ingredients in corn gluten meal. Laboratory studies show the peptides themselves to be significantly more effective at preventing weed germination than the corn gluten meal itself. Unfortunately the peptides do not persist in the soil when used as a spray long enough for effective control. Current research is aimed at isolating and packaging these peptides to produce a sprayable product.

Source: John C. Stier, Turfgrass Extension Specialist, University of Illinois

August

• Monitor for pest (annual white grubs mid-August thru September) (sod webworm)
• Irrigation (as needed)
• Prepare for seeding, overseeding (optimum time)
• Seeding - latter half of month (optimum time)

September

• Overseeding & establishment (optimum time) - first week
• Fertilization (key time) - first 2 weeks
• Cultivation (aerification, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing
• Postemergence broadleaf weed control to actively growing weeds (optimum time)

At this time of year, several pests will feed on annual and perennial flowers both leaves and blossoms. Slugs are probably the main culprits in flower destruction this year. Remember that their damage normally occurs as holes in the leaves. Other pests primarily eat the leaf margins of leaves and petals.

Earwigs have emerged in large numbers this year in Illinois. We are receiving reports of many in both northern and central Illinois. The European earwig is about 5/8 inch long, slender, reddish brown, with pincers on the back end of the body. Males have larger, curved pincers shaped like ice tongs; females' pincers are smaller, straight and fit close together.

Earwigs prefer moist situations and hide in cracks and crevices during the daytime. They emerge at night to feed on mulches and other decaying organic matter, fleas and other insects, and the leaves and blooms of some plants. They are particularly damaging to marigold, aegeratum, zinnia and the flower petals of rose and daylily. Earwigs are more numerous where there is damp organic matter such as mulch. They become obvious in late June when they approach adulthood and continue to be a problem until mid to late August. Eggs are laid in the soil and hatching occurs in late winter to early spring. Earwigs do not lay eggs indoors.

Sowbugs and pillbugs are also very numerous in flower beds this summer. They thrive in consistently moist situations and feed primarily on decaying organic matter such as mulches. Both of these crustaceans look like tiny armadillos, having a series of plates across the back and ranging from gray to blackish. Pillbugs can roll up into a ball when disturbed and are more dome-shaped than the sowbugs, which cannot roll up. We usually don't consider these relatives of crayfish and shrimp to be damaging, but in very high populations they can eat the edges of the thin leaves and flower petals of hosta, violets, impatiens and other plants.

Grasshoppers also feed on the leaves of flowers, eating the margins until there is little or no leaf left. They can also eat large holes in the leaves. Several of the grasshopper species that are very obvious and numerous in late summer as adults have recently hatched into young grasshopper

nymphs that are about 1/4 inch long. These nymphs are very numerous, but most will die from fungal diseases if rainfall is moderate or heavy. Also present, in smaller numbers, are some other species' older nymphs and adults that eat more per hopper than the young ones. Grasshoppers severely attack iris, daylily and sunflower, but also can be devastating to many other flower species.

Black vine weevil, strawberry root weevil and imported longhorned weevil adults also feed on flowers, preferring those with large leaves and petals such as daisy and coreopsis. Look for half-moon shapes eaten into the edges of petals and leaves. All three weevils have rounded, hard-shelled bodies with the heads elongated into short snouts. Black vine weevil is about 3/8 inch long and blackish with indistinct yellowish spots. The other two weevils are about 3/16 inch long. Strawberry root weevil is black or brown; imported longhorned weevil is tan with irregular brown spots. These two smaller weevils are commonly found hiding in blossoms. Much of their feeding is done at night.

Flower petals are eaten by various leaf beetle adults. The most common ones in Illinois are northern corn rootworm, western corn rootworm and southern corn rootworm, also known as the spotted cucumber beetle. These and other leaf beetles are about 1/4 inch long. The northern is green, the western is yellow and black striped and the southern is greenish yellow with black spots.

Two milkweed beetles eat the leaves of milkweeds such as butterfly weed, bloodflower and swamp milkweed. The milkweed leaf beetle is about 3/8 inch long, roundish, with a black and orange color pattern. The other milkweed beetle is _ to 3/4 inch long and red with black spots and long black antennae. These two beetles usually do not cause enough damage to require control.

To chemically control these chewing insects on flowers, apply carbaryl (Sevin). Many other insecticides are also effective. Keep the insecticide off the blossoms, to avoid killing beneficial bees and other pollinating insects. Insects that feed on the flowers also feed on the leaves and will be controlled with insecticide applied there.

Source: Phil Nixon, University of Illinois Entomologist & David Robson, Springfield Educator

Japanese beetle adults are a major problem in landscapes because they feed on a wide variety of annuals, perennials, trees, shrubs and vines. However, certain plants are more susceptible to their attack. These plants are listed in Table 1. In contrast, many plants are less susceptible to attack by Japanese beetle adult. These plants are listed in Table 2.

Research has demonstrated that natural sugar content and presence of odoriferous substances are important factors in determining the susceptibility of plants to attack by Japanese beetle adults. A study showed that plants with higher amounts of the reducing sugar dextrose suffered greater damage from beetle adults than plants with lower amounts of dextrose.

Ornamental plants highly susceptible to feeding by Japanese beetle adults.

• Japanese maple
• Norway maple
• Gray birch
• Horsechestnut
• Black walnut
• Sassafras
• American elm
• Althea
• London planetree
• Rose
• Black cherry
• Crab apple
• American mountain ash
• Lombardy poplar
• Pussy willow
• American linden

Ornamental plants less susceptible to feeding by Japanese beetle adults.

• Red maple
• Silver maple
• American holly
• Boxwood
• Snowberry
• Winged euonymus
• Flowering dogwood
• White cedar
• Yellow poplar
• Saucer magnolia
• White ash
• Green ash
• Lilac
• Norway spruce
• Scotch pine
• Douglas fir
• Canadian hemlock
• Mock orange
• Hydrangea Yew
• Forsythia

Odoriferous chemicals have also been shown to play a role in the attractiveness of certain plants to Japanese beetles. Ginkgo biloba, which is not usually attacked by Japanese beetle adults, may lack certain odoriferous chemicals that are attractive to them. However, many susceptible plants such as rose and apple contain the substance geraniol, which is highly attractive to Japanese beetle adults. It should be noted that when Japanese beetle adult populations are heavy and food is a limiting factor, plants that are less susceptible to Japanese beetle adult feeding might be fed upon.

Source: Raymond Cloyd, University of Illinois

Garden Calendar
Daily tips for the home gardener.
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/gardencal/

The Bug Review
Are bugs bugging you??? Get help from the Bug Review.
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/bugreview/

Plants Not Favored for Browsing by Deer

Deer are becoming an increasing problem in the Midwest, especially for homeowners living near woodlands. As open land continues to be developed, less open space is available for the deer to live. In the open space that remains, the deer population develops unchecked because there are no natural predators, such as wolf, cougar and coyote. In good habitats, the deer population can more than double each year.

Deer damage plants in two ways: battering by antlers and browsing. Battering occurs in late summer and fall. Young trees, two to three inches in diameter, are used for 'sparring practice." During late fall and winter, deer browse (feed) on young succulent twigs when other foods are less available. New buds and shoots are also browsed in spring and early summer.

Staff members at The Morton Arboretum are frequently asked to suggest plants that are not eaten by deer. It is important to realize that deer will eat almost any plant if they are under enough pressure, such as snow cover and overcrowding. A list was compiled based on the observations of Pete van der Linden, Curator of Plant Collections, The Morton arboretum, Lisle, Illinois and Galen Gates, Manager of Horticulture Collections Chicago Botanic Garden, Glencoe, Illinois. The book Gardening in Deer County by Karen J. Bernard (Croton-on-Hudson, New York. 54 pp.) was also used as a source.

For a free copy of the list of plant materials resistant to deer call our office at 773-233-0476.

Killer (Alfalfa) Sprouts!!!

The U. S. Department of agriculture is collaborating with Oregon State University to develop a high-tech method of sterilizing alfalfa seeds for sprouting. The method involves capacitive dielectric heating - currently used to cure glue between plywood layers - of seeds package in edible films. Why bother? Because there have been several incidents of food poisoning due to alfalfa sprouts in recent years, putting Oregon seed producers (who supply much of the alfalfa sprouting seed used nationwide ) at risk. The basic problem seems to be that alfalfa seeds for sprouting aren't distinguished from seeds for planting by major growers and so they aren't handled with food safety as a primary consideration. And sterilization procedures such as bleaching and conventional hating can adversely affect sprouting. So, unlike most other produce that is consumed raw, alfalfa sprouting seeds currently don't receive even the most basic sterilization procedures, such as washing. It is left to consumers to deal with contaminants. (Speaking of which, we'll be sure to rinse the seeds thoroughly next time we start to grow alfalfa sprouts!)

Reference: Anonymous, "Heating May Cool Sprout Safety Issue," Oregon's Agricultural Progress 45(3), Spring 1999, 5. (Extension and Experiment Station Communications, Oregon State University, 422 Kerr Administration Bldg., Corvallis, OR 97331.)

"The Accurate Sundial"

Really accurate - because it is custom-made for your location! And it's made from durable materials, with a large, easy-to-read face. $64.95 postpaid in the 48 contiguous states (include the zip code where the sundial will be installed). Send a check or money order to Geostar Products, P. O. Box 301, Wakefield, MA 01880. Or visit www.gis.net/~geostar for more details.

Tips on Controlling Canada Geese

Canada geese, which devour grass and produce about one pound of manure per day per full- grown bird, have become huge problems in some suburban areas of the Northeast, where they have are permanent residents. Here are some suggestions for dealing with these nuisances:

Attempts to destroy eggs have not been successful in reducing local geese populations over the long term. Relocation is effective about half the time (that is, about half of the relocated birds will return). Destruction of local populations can be effective, but there might be strong opposition from animal rights activists. A special permit, issued only after a site review has been held, is required in New York to destroy the birds or their nests or eggs.

It is important to avoid feeding resident geese, since even a slight boost to survival rates can lead to greatly accelerated population increases. Here, too, there might be strong local opposition.

Attempts to frighten the geese away are generally unsuccessful because the birds rapidly habituate unless there is a continuing element of surprise.

The only commercially available antifeedant is prohibitively expensive, and has an odor that some people dislike and must be applied repeatedly.

The most problematic time is typically during the molting season (mid-June through July), when the geese cannot fly. On the plus side, a fence will contain the geese during (and only during) this period.

In New York, chasing or scaring geese with a dog is allowed and border collies, with their reputation for herding, have been used for this. (Again, the element of surprise is important.) But it is illegal for a dog to injure a Canada goose and some dogs just cannot resist trying to take a bite.

If the situation escalates to virtually total destruction of turf, you should consider planting a non-grass groundcover that is less appetizing to the geese. For instance, Canada geese do not relish pachysandra!

Reference: Tamson Yeh, "Goose Symposium Highlights," The Horticulture Lookout 1 (3), April/May 1999, 11-12. (Cornell cooperative Extension, Erie County, 21 S. Grove St., Suite 240, East Aurora, NY 14052.

Chinese Tree Peonies: "Best Selection in the U.S."

The 1999 catalog from Golden Port International (2255 Cedars Rd., Lawrenceville, GA 30043) lists dozens of peony cultivars, several available in the U.S. only from GPI. For a copy, send$2. Or visit the web site www.goldenport.com/peony.

Fall Webworm

Fall webworm is appearing again in Illinois as very young, small webs. This is the start of the second generation in the southern half of Illinois and the only generation in the northern half of the state. These insects become quite noticeable in August and September with silk webbing up to 3 feet long enclosing the ends of branches and associated leaves. These leaves are eaten off by the larvae, leaving bare branches with dirty webbing attached. Although it is aesthetically unpleasing, this feeding is not very harmful to the health of the tree. Many species of trees are attacked, although walnut, hickory, pecan, crabapple, birch and maple are the most common.

At this time, the most effective control entails pruning out the small webs that enclose the larvae. If insecticide sprays are used, use enough pressure to penetrate the water-resistant web. A succession of new colonies is normally produced from now through August and sometimes into early September. Scout weekly to identify and treat new colonies with their web nests.

Source: Phil Nixon & Raymond Cloyd, University of Illinois

August - Edible

Allow some of your onions to flower. Dried onion flower heads look great in winter flower arrangements.

To reduce splitting in cabbage, turn the cabbage a quarter to a half turn if they start to crack.

Start seeds of broccoli, cabbage & Brussels sprouts to transplant later for a fall harvest.

Pick cucumbers early and often. They have a very short vine storage time.

Cure onions in a warm, dry place for two weeks before storing in a cool, dry area.

Keep track of this season's harvesting dates to help in planning next year's vegetable garden.

Harvest herbs and hang them in a dark, well ventilated location. Store dried herbs in an air tight container. Harvest and preserving herbs factsheet available.

Check lawn for white grub damage; browned areas that can be pulled up like a rug. Factsheet available.

Got extra green tomatoes? Slice the tomatoes, dip in flour or corn meal, sprinkle with salt and fry in a little butter until tender.

Sow a crop of rye, oats or rye grass in unused garden areas for a green manure crop. Factsheet available.

Plan a family outing to one of the following county fairs:

• McHenry County - August 4^th - August 8^th - for more information call 815-338-5315
• Will County - August 25^th - August 29^th - for more information call 708-258-6592
• Kendall County - August 6^th - August 8^th - for more information call 630-553-2860
• Lake County Indiana - August 6^th - August 15^th - for more information call 219-663-3617
• Illinois State Fair - August 13^th - August 22^nd - for more information call 217-782-6661

Compost vegetable plants as they start to die out. Composting factsheet available.

August - Ornamental

Picking flowers to bring indoors? Stick them in lukewarm water first for about an hour.

Provide fresh water for birds.

Order spring flowering bulbs for fall planting.

Watch for powdery mildew appearing on plants this month. Damage is only aesthetic. Controls are not necessary.

Seed lawn in late August. Check out University of Illinois Extension's 26 Lawn Care Factsheets online at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/lawntalk/. Factsheets also available by mail by calling 773-233-0476 for more information. There is a cost of $3.00 for the complete set.

Have a pesticide related question? Call the National Pesticide Telecommunications Network at 1-800-858-7378 - Monday - Friday - 8:30 a.m. - 6:30 p.m.

Save the "to go" drink holders from fast food restaurants. They're great for holding 4 inches and smaller pots on a trip back from the garden center.

Order Colchicum and autumn crocus for fall blooms.

Purchase garden supplies before they are removed from the shelves in the fall.

Yellowjackets spoiling your picnic or making your walk to the garbage can a battleground? Factsheet available.

August - Interior

Check houseplants for insects.

Take cuttings of coleus, geraniums and impatiens for winter flowering indoors.

September Edible

Collect soil for soil testing. Call 773-233-0476 for a soil testing booklet.

Plant garlic - factsheet available.

Lettuce, kale, radishes and spinach can be seeded for a fall harvest.

Pick your own orchards are open. For a free listing of orchards give us a call or check out our Apples & More web site at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/apples/

Plant a green manure crop in empty garden areas. Factsheet available.

September Ornamental

Pull out dying annuals.

Plant mums, kale, flowering cabbage or pansies.

Divide daylilies.

Mildew will develop but fungicides are not needed this late in the season.

Plant shrub roses.

Slugs become active in cooler weather. Control with slug bait or stale beer in shallow pans. Factsheet available.

Do not fertilize roses. If fertilized new growth will not harden off before winter.

Plant spring flowering bulbs. Factsheet available.

Core-aerate your lawn.

Check out our Bulbs & More web site at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/bulbs/

Prune diseased, damaged or broken stems and branches.

Divide perennials.

Plant lilies.

Reseed lawn in early September. Factsheet available.

Plant trees & shrubs. Factsheet available.

September Indoors

Take cuttings from coleus. Will root easily in water.

Bring in houseplants.

Foot Care

The human foot is a pretty remarkable piece of engineering. Unfortunately, most people don't give their feet much thought until there is a problem. The lowly foot is constantly the object of humor, referred to as tootsies, dogs, boats, lanchas, barges and various other names.

Feet probably take more punishment in a lifetime than any other part of the body. They are flexible shock absorbers able to support and balance a tremendous amount of weight. Made up of 26 bones, they are held together by tendons, ligaments and muscles and wrapped in skin. Each foot is different, including your own two feet.

Most of the pain our feet suffer is self-inflicted. such as forcing them into shoes that simply do not fit or are inappropriate for the job being performed. Ill-fitting socks, stockings and pantyhose also contribute to foot problems.

If you are diabetic, follow your doctor's advice about foot care. People with diabetes and poor circulation are at greater risk of developing wounds that do not heal normally. Corns, calluses and blisters can quickly turn into serious medial problems. Left unattended they could cause permanent damage and become life threatening.

Daily Foot Care

Start by taking a close look at your feet. Examine each toe, your heels and the top and bottom of each foot. If you cannot see the bottom of your foot, use a mirror. Are there any calluses, corns, bunions or sore spots?

Feet are often forgotten in the shower. Scrub your feet each time you bath or shower. If you cannot bend over, there are hard plastic stools designed for use in the shower.

For crusty feet, use a pumice stone or firm brush to exfoliate dead skin. Keep your toenails clipped in a square shape. Be careful not to cut nails too short, or they may become "ingrown." Thoroughly dry each foot and then gently massage with a moisturizing lotion. Wear shoes that fit and pay attention to any foot pain.

Corns and Calluses

Corns and calluses are usually minor problems. Calluses are thick layers of dry hard skin, which usually form on heels and the ball of the foot. Corns can be soft or hard. They are the thickening of skin around a core, whose highest point grows inward. Most hard corns are on the little toe. Friction and pressure from shoes and day to day walking can cause these formations.

Most corns disappear with care and shoes that fit properly. Corns will not go away unless you get rid of the shoe causing the problem. Wear soft leather or cloth shoes with plenty of toe space to avoid developing corns and calluses.

Care - To soften skin, soften feet for 15 minutes in warm soapy water. Using a pumice stone or wet wash cloth, gently rub the hardened area. Regular care will reduce the thickness of callous skin. Repeat over several days until skin feels normal. Protect sore areas with a corn pad or bandage.

Ingrown Toenail

An ingrown toenail is when the sharp end of the nail grows down into the toe. This happens often with the big toe. Curved toenails cut too short and/or tight shoes; sock and stockings can cause this painful problem.

Care - If the area is infected, see a doctor. If not, let the nail grow out, then cut it straight across. Your toenails should be cut square, not round. Avoid pressure on the toe by wearing shoes with a wide toe box. You should be able to wiggle your toes inside the shoe. If you cannot move your toes, your shoes are too tight.

Bunion

A bunion happens when the big toe overlaps the second toe. The place where the large metatarsal bone sticks out is the bunion. Bunions can be inherited or developed. Women have bunions more often than men do. The best bunion-makes are tight fitting high-heeled pointed shoes. If they become painful, see a doctor. Some bunions require corrective surgery.

Your feet should not hurt when you walk. Daily pain can be a sign of more serious problems. If this happens, you may need to see a doctor or podiatrist. Podiatrists are not medical doctors. They are professionals licensed and trained to treat foot problems. Orthopedists are medical doctors who give foot and ankle care. Both treat bone disorders, they may also perform surgery and prescribe medications.

It's summertime and the grilling is easy. Sweet corn season is here once again and what better way to enjoy it than on the grill. It really doesn't make sense to boil a pot of water in this heat, if the grill is already hot, why not grill the corn?

Grilling caramelizes the natural sugar in corn and enhances it with smoked flavor. Many people prefer the moistness of boiled corn because grilled corn can be dry. By following a few simple rules, you can have the best of both worlds. Moist, tender, juicy, sweet, tasty corn on the grill.

Remember, grilling will not improve old, dry, poor quality corn. You must start with fresh, young, tender corn or it will be dry, gummy and tasteless. A key to great grilled corn is not overcooking it plus a technique used by grillers at "The Taste of Chicago."

Selecting Sweet Corn

When selecting sweet corn look for bright green husks. The silk should be lightly brown on the ends. Look at the stalk end as well. It should be lightly yellow. The stalk is white when sweet corn is first harvested and it gets darker with age. Peel back the husk and look at the first few rows of kernels. They should be plump and translucent. Using your thumb nail, pierce a kernel. Milky juice should spurt forth. If one ear shows these signs of freshness, they will all follow suit.

Preparing Corn for Grilling

Prepare the grill by spreading hot coals evenly so that the heat is medium-high. Check temperature by holding your hand about 5 inches over the grill. Holding your hand there for 5 seconds means the heat is right for grilling corn. Increase heat by shaking some of the gray ash off the coals. Decrease heat by removing some of the hot coals and spreading them a little thinner.

Remove most of the husk from each ear. Leave only the thin light green husk layer. Removing the entire husk allows corn to cook too fast causing it to dry out. Leaving the entire husk on creates too much moisture. The corn virtually steams inside the husk without picking up any grilling flavor. It may as well be boiled.

Grill the corn, turning it often, about every two minutes. Watch for a golden color forming on the kernels. The husk will be charred, but the kernels inside will be lightly caramelized while retaining juiciness. Fresh sweet corn takes about 10 minutes to grill.

Season lightly with salt and pepper and serve. Leftover corn is great heated in the microwave or removed from the cob for Black Bean and Roasted Corn Salsa (see Health & Household Tips).

Food Safety at Farmer's Markets and Roadside Stands

Many farmers' market locations and roadside stands sell items other than fresh produce to the public. Purchasing homemade "canned goods" can be risky if USDA canning guidelines have not been followed.

Never purchase homemade low acid products such as meats and vegetables (green beans, corn, carrots, etc.) from an unreliable source. Do not buy home canned meat, fish or seafood products. Jams, jellies and pickles are reasonably safe if the products are in jars sealed with a two-piece canning lid. The jars must also be heat processed according to the latest USDA guidelines. Avoid jars that show any sign of spoilage, such as mold growth, cloudy liquid or if the produce exudes a peculiar odor.

The safest course of action is to steer clear of all these products, since there is no guarantee that sanitation and safety procedures have been followed. Mold, yeast and bacteria growing inside a jar of "produce" can be unsafe and even deadly.

In order to sell products which are not "produce" such as baked goods, nuts, coffee, teas, juice jams, jellies, sauces, vinegars, and mustards, farmers participating in Chicago must follow some very strict rules. The Chicago Department of Consumer Services (CDCS) runs the Farmers' Market Program, with farmers from five surrounding states participating. According to CDCS,

All "produced" items must be manufactured by a licensed commissary in a facility which adheres to all the licensing requirements for the state municipality/state in which it is located, as well as the farmers' market's rules and regulations.

The location of the licensed commissary that prepared the items must be stated and approved by CDCS as part of the initial farmers' market application procedure. Homemade jams and jellies and other items often show up at small roadside stands along the highways and byways across the nation but they are strictly prohibited at the Chicago Farmers' Market.

If you live outside of the city of Chicago, check with your local municipality or Health Department concerning the guidelines for the sale of such products. Protect yourself and your family from the risk of foodborne illness (food poisoning).

Getting a Proper Shoe Fit

Did you know your feet grow an change all of your life" Weight gain, weight loss and normal agin can change the shape of your feet. Healthy feet are important to overall health. Take steps toward healthy feet by giving them daily care and by wearing appropriate shoes that fit properly.

• Have each foot measured when you buy new shoes.
• Stand for the measurement, placing all of your weight on one foot.
• Because many shoe are imported, the size number may not reflect the fit. A 7-1/2 might fit like an 8M. Don't get hung up on numbers, buy the shoe that fits your foot.
• Put both shoes on and walk around on a hard surface.
• Buy shoes toward the end of the day when feet are larger from walking.
• If you wear high-heel shoes, do so for a limited amount of time.
• The shape of the shoe is also important. Select shoes that fit your lifestyle.

Roast Corn and Black Bean Salsa

2 ears grilled corn, kernels cut from cobs, about 1 cup
1 cup canned black beans, rinsed
1 poblano chile, charred
1/4 cup each, chopped red and green bell peppers
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
1 green onion, with 2 inches of green top, chopped
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
2 tablespoons lime juice
1 teaspoon sugar

Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl. Serve chilled or at room temperature.

Makes 2-1/2 cups

Caffeine Content

Caffeine occurs naturally in coffee, tea and chocolate. It is also an ingredient in most pop. Clear lemon-lime pop (7-Up, sprite, etc.) does not contain caffeine.

Food coloring masks caffeine in pop so fruit-flavored pop like orange, strawberry, grape and Mountain Dew-type also contains caffeine unless the label states otherwise. Minute Maid Orange pop is one of the few colored pops on the market without caffeine.

• 40 to 108 mg in a 5 ounce cup of instant coffee
• 110 to 150 mg in a 5 ounce cup of drip-type coffee
• 20 to 50 mg in a 5 ounce cup of regular tea (5 minute brew)
• 45.6 mg in a 12 ounce bottle of cola
• 22 to 36 mg in a 12 ounce glass of iced tea
• 45 mg in a 12 ounce can of fruit flavored pop (orange, grape, strawberry, etc.)
• 40 to 45 mg in 1 ounce dark chocolate candy bar

• Ibuprofen could be dangerous to some people? Ibuprofen is a nonsteroidal anti- inflammatory drug (NSAID). People with impaired kidney function, a history of stomach ulcers, low salt levels in the blood, atherosclerosis or people suffering from dehydration should not take NSAIDs. NSAIDs may also interact with other medications, increasing the risk of kidney damage. Ibuprofen, naproxen and ketoprofen are all NSAIDs sold over-the-counter. If you have an existing health condition and take medication there are alternative pain relievers to ibuprofen and other NSAIDs. Before self-prescribing NSAIDs, talk with your doctor.

• Marinade is a noun and marinate is a verb? These English words come from the Italian root word "marinato." According to the USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service, a marinade is a savory acidic sauce in which a food is soaked to enrich its flavor and/or to tenderize it. While the verb marinate means to soak food in a marinade.

• Some areas of your refrigerator are colder than others? Food kept near the rear wall of your refrigerator will stay colder than those stored near the door. In most refrigerators, the upper-rear section is coldest while the lower front portion is warmer. The warmest area, although not suitable for thawing foods, is the refrigerator door section.

• Kids who drink high amounts of pop consume more calories and drink less milk and fruit juices than other children? Research from the University of Minnesota examined the diets of a nationally representative survey of children two to 18 years old. Kids who drank an average of nine ounces of pop a day consumed about 2,018 calories daily, while those who avoided pop only took in about 1,830 calories per day. The biggest pop drinkers also were the lest likely to drink milk, water or fruit juices, the researchers found. Source: Journal of the American Dietetic Association, Volume 99, No. 4, April 1999