Yard chores don't stop with the first frost. In some respects, they're just beginning.

Most of the work for next year's yard and garden starts in the fall with clean-up. Sanitation is key to reducing insect and disease problems for next year.

Plant debris should be removed and composted. Compost piles properly maintained should reach an internal temperature of 140 degrees F. necessary to kill insects and disease organisms.

Burying debris in the ground may be adequate for plants such as marigold or petunias that suffer few pest problems. However, most perennial foliage should be composted.

Foliage should not be removed from plants until it turns yellow or brown. Green foliage is still manufacturing food for next year's growth.

Avoid removing foliage to the ground. Leaving an inch stub on peonies, chrysanthemums and other perennials aids you in locating the plants as they are sprouting next spring. An inch stem stub won't increase insect or disease problems.

Check the foliage carefully for signs of insect or disease problems as you remove it. Never leave peony foliage near the dormant plant as the chance of botrytis disease problems next spring increases drastically.

All perennials, trees and shrubs need a thorough watering before the ground freezes. While plants appear dormant, roots are still actively growing and functioning.

Evergreens probably demand a more thorough watering than any other plant. Pines, yews, junipers, arborvitae, spruces, boxwoods, hollies and rhododendrons lose water through their leaves during winter. It's important roots have a supply of water to replace what's lost.

The last watering should take place before the ground completely freezes. This date usually occurs between Thanksgiving and Christmas.

To prevent freezing and thawing injury, perennials should be mulched with six to eight inches of an organic material. Compost, partially decomposed leaves, woodchips and bark can be used. Allow the ground to partially freeze before covering plants.

It may be necessary to make wire cages to enclose sensitive plants such as nandina, tree peonies and roses. Cages can be filled with lightly packed compost or leaves.

Mulch isn't used to keep the cold from damaging perennials and well established plants, but to maintain a uniform soil temperature. Freezing and thawing can heave plants from the soil, exposing roots to the drying winter winds and sun.

On the other hand, mulch applied before the ground freezes can add a few extra weeks to the root development of newly planted trees and shrubs. Eventually, however, the ground will freeze beneath the mulch.

Fall planted trees and those with smooth bark may need some protection during the winter to prevent winter injury such as sunscald or frost cracking. Damage usually occurs on the south and southeast part of the tree. The winter sun warms the bark during the day, causing it to expand. Night temperatures quickly cool it, causing tissue damage and cracks. Commercial tree wrap material is available at garden centers and nurseries. Wrap the trunk from the ground to first set of branches.

Rabbit and mouse damage can be prevented by encircling the trunk of shade and fruit trees with a chicken wire cylinder with at least an inch gap between the trunk and wire. The cylinder should be at least three feet high. Shrub roses and ornamental shrubs can be encircled with a larger cylinder to prevent injury.

Source: David Robson, Extension Educator, Horticulture, Springfield Extension Center

Of the hundreds of tree, shrub and herbaceous plant samples submitted each year to the Plant Clinic, only about 15 percent are actually disease problems. A great percentage are problems that can be traced to poor horticultural choices, such as the wrong plant for the location (pin oak in a high-pH soil, leading to iron chlorosis), lack of soil improvement before planting (rhododendron in a tight soil, predisposing it to Phytophthora root rot), poor planning (five trees in the space needed for one mature tree, setting up a decline syndrome), or similar situations. We tend to go with our hearts in plant selection rather than our brains and don't always follow much-touted advice about plants.

Here is some advice that you should follow now to avoid problems - - and save time and money in the spring. Too busy to bother? Weather too wet to work in the yard? If you choose to ignore this advice, then next spring you can expect to perform extensive pruning of dead canes on your roses (from canker disease), to replace plants that have been frost-heaved out of the soil, to replace turf that has been molding under the snow (Fusarium snow mold) and to deal with plant diseases of stressed plants (including cankers, wood rots, root rots and decline).

Once a pathogen infects a plant, the plant and the homeowner usually have to deal with it for the life of the plant. A good example is Cytospora canker of spruce. The fungus invades trees under stress. Management practices include pruning, watering and fertilizing to establish tree vitality, but the fungus will remain in the tree until its death.

Many disease problems are best controlled with preventive measures. Chemical rescue treatments may act as temporary solutions but are usually not the answer for long-term disease control. These fall lawn and garden cleanup procedures will help prepare plants for winter and discourage development of disease problems.

1. Keep grass mowed until it stops growing. This helps prevent winter injury and damage from fungal snow molds.

2. Prune oak trees in the dormant season so as not to increase the risk of oak wilt. Pruning from September to early March is recommended because pruning during the growing season attracts bark beetles, which transmit the oak wilt fungus. Oak wilt is a potential threat in all of Illinois and can kill mature oaks in one season.

3. Prune trees and shrubs to remove all dead and seriously cankered wood, as well as any crossing and interfering branches. Opening up the center of woody plants helps promote faster drying, lets in more light and reduces foliar and stem diseases. This is a common practice to help prevent fire blight on rosaceous hosts, as well as to prevent bacterial leaf spots of Prunus species.

4. Provide suggested winter protection for roses, evergreens, thin-barked young trees and other sensitive plants. Winter injury causes wounds that become infected with secondary canker fungi. Many of the rose cankers infect such injuries. Plants that have been located out of their natural range are often weakened in this way and predisposed to cankers and insect feeding.

5. Prune tree and bush fruits according to recommendations by Extension horticulturists.

6. Removal and burning (where possible), composting or burying plant debris will help reduce foliar and stem disease next year. It is usually safe to compost any leaf material, but diseased stem and root tissues should be burned or buried, not included in a compost pile.

7. Look over a variety of seed and nursery catalogs. Select resistant varieties (if they are otherwise horticulturally acceptable) and plant them where you've had problems in the past but have no rotation options. Choosing disease-resistant hybrids, varieties and species is usually the least expensive and best long-term method of disease control. If you have had problems with scab on crabapple, consider replacement with a scab-resistant variety showing flower and fruit color that you prefer as well. Try to obtain a variety that is also resistant to powdery mildew and rust.

8. Make a map of your flower and vegetable gardens. Next year, move related plants to another area of the garden to reduce soilborne pathogens that cause Rhizoctonia and Fusarium root rots. Now is also a great time to make soil amendments to improve soil drainage.

9. Divide perennial flowers (where appropriate), remove rotted or diseased parts and replant in a new location. Let the cut edges dry before replanting to avoid soft rot bacteria and other soilborne root rots.

Of course these measures will not guarantee a lack of plant disease in your garden, but they will help reduce disease incidence.

Source: Nancy Pataky, Extension Specialist, Plant Clinic

Diagnosing disease and insect problems can really be fun. The task becomes more difficult when the problem is not something infectious or related to insects. It takes time to wade through all of the site, environmental and cultural factors involved and often this sort of information is not provided. Here are some tips on diagnosing tree root problems.

There are, of course, many below ground reasons for the decline of a tree. Drought, flooding, compaction of the root zone, poor soils, planting too deeply, inadequate space for roots and many more factors could be involved. Often, diagnosing such a problem involves a process of elimination, ruling out possibilities that might cause similar symptoms. One of the more difficult possibilities to eliminate is root rot. Most gardeners believe that they cannot possibly know the health of a mature tree's roots.

The first sign of any root problem is top decline. Look for a few clues to determine whether a tree is growing well. You can see a tree's annual growth by looking at the trunk cross-section. Most of us have done this as children. We counted the number of rings to tell us how old a tree was when it died. We have also looked at the thickness of these rings to compare growth between years. A less destructive way to determine the amount of growth is to look at the stems. Follow the stem tip back to the first set of closely aligned rings (about 1/8 inch apart) around the stem. That is one year's growth. Continue down the stem to the next set of rings for the next year's growth. Continue down the stem to the next set of rings for the next year's growth. Most trees grow anywhere from 6 to 18 inches of twig length in one year. Of course, this varies with the species and whether you are looking at a shady or sunny part of the tree. If the tree has only grown one inch of twig for the last two years and 8 inches three years ago, it is safe to say that the tree is under stress and that the stress began two years ago. Cankers on the stems, stem tip dieback, off-color foliage, early fall color and early defoliation are also clues that a tree may be stressed by underground causes.

To detect pathogenic wood rots and root rots, look for mushroom-like fungi growing at the base of the tree or shrub. In the case of wood rot fungi, the conks (also called shelf fungi or fruiting bodies) may be found growing aerially on the trunk or main branches. These are signs of the pathogen. The actual mycelia of the fungus is probably growing in or on the roots or internally in the wood. One of the most common examples is Gandoderma root rot, which produces a shelf type of fungal structure at the base of many trees, especially honey locust. The structure is reddish brown and appears to have been varnished. Its presence indicates that a root rot has invaded. Other fungi may indicate wood rots. Wet weather often triggers the formation of these structures. They could easily be confused with fungi growing on dead organic debris near a tree. If, however, they are growing from the tree itself, they are excellent signs of wood rot or root rot.

You can also do some careful digging in the root zone of a tree to try to determine the health of the roots. Do this near the drip line at two or three spots. Healthy roots are brown on the outside but white internally or at the very tips of the roots. If the roots have a soft, brown outer layer that easily pulls off the center of the root, a root rot may be involved.

Some experts say that the presence of conks on a tree or root rot in the root system means that a tree will soon die. That may be the case, but trees and shrubs may survive for many years with wood or root rots. Do not remove a tree simply because it has a conk. Instead, use this as a diagnostic tool in determining the true problem with the tree. If the tree becomes a threat to life or property because of its potential to fall or blow over, remove it as soon as possible.

No chemicals will help a tree in decline. Use approved cultural practices to improve tree vitality, including weekly waterings of one to two inches of water in periods of extended drought. Also, cut out dead branches in the dormant season, fertilize in late fall or early spring and keep traffic off the root system. For very old or very large trees, fertilization and watering may have no benefit. On most trees, these measures may help the tree continue to live for many years. Wood rot and decline fungi do not have to be fatal.

Source: Nancy Pataky, Extension Specialist, Plant Clinic

Wilt diseases occur when a pathogen plugs a plant's water transport system. Bacterial wilt of vine crops is caused by a bacterium, a pathogen so small that thousands can be found in bacterial exudate the size of a drop of water.

Even so, the pathogen can multiply quickly and plug the vascular tissues. When this happens, water transport does not occur and growers report that their plants suddenly wilt and die. This tiny bacterium is transported from plant to plant by the striped and spotted cucumber beetles.

Cucumbers and muskmelons (or cantaloupes) are the major hosts of bacterial wilt and this is where we see the most damage. The disease can also occur on pumpkins, squash and rarely watermelon, although it is usually not as severe. Wilt symptoms appear first on individual leaves but quickly spread to lateral shoots; finally, the entire plant wilts. Symptoms develop more quickly on younger, smaller plants.

There is a "quick-and-dirty" field test for this disease. To confirm the presence of bacterial wilt, cut a live, wilted runner off the plant near the crown. You only need the 5 or 6 inches of stem nearest the crown. Cut the stem section in two, hold the cut ends so that they are back together and squeeze them until the plant sap flows out from each cut edge and the sap intermingles. Then slowly pull the cut ends apart. If there is a strand of sticky sap between the cut ends, a bacterium is probably present and bacterial wilt is a strong possibility. Unfortunately, after you confirm the presence of this disease, there is nothing you can do to stop it in the infected plant. This knowledge should help you control the disease next year.

The primary method for controlling bacterial wilt is to control the beetle vector, the striped and spotted cucumber beetles. The beetles overwinter as adults, and they are present when the vine crops emerge. Because the beetles are most attracted to plants in the cotyledon stage, insecticides should be initiated immediately after planting. Apply insecticides late in the day when blossoming begins so as not to interfere with pollination by bees. Home growers usually spray plants with an insecticide weekly from the time plants break the soil (or when they are transplanted) until they are in bloom. Chemical options are listed in the homeowner and commercial pest control handbooks. The homeowners book is available at a cost of $10 + postage and handling. Call our office if you are interested in purchasing one.

Source: Nancy Pataky, Extension Specialist, Plant Clinic

What's the shelf life of a pesticide? Pesticides used in the landscape are manufactured, formulated and packaged to specific standards. However, when stored improperly, they can break down, especially under conditions of high temperature and humidity. Some pesticides can lose their active ingredients through chemical decomposition or volatilization. Dry formulations (wettable powder) can become caked and compacted; emulsifiable concentrates (ECs) can lose their ability to form emulsions. Some pesticides become more toxic, flammable or explosive as they break down.

Pesticide formulations with low concentrations of active ingredients generally lose effectiveness faster than more concentrated forms. Sometimes a liquid pesticide develops gas as it deteriorates, making opening and handling containers quite hazardous. In time, the gas pressure may cause the container to rupture or explode.

Certain pesticides have a characteristic odor. A strong odor in the storage area may indicate a leak, spill or improperly sealed container. It may also be a clue that the pesticide is deteriorating, because the smell of some chemicals intensifies as they break down. If none of these problems are found, chemical odors can be reduced by installing an exhaust fan or lowering the temperature of the storage area.

The following pesticide product characteristics affect shelf life:

• the formulation (liquid concentrate, wettable powder, granules)
• the types of stabilizers and emulsifiers used in the product
• the chemical nature and stability of the product
• the type of container and its closure

Pesticide containers (including fiber and metal drums, pails, cans, bottles, bags, boxes and overpacks with liners) have an important effect on storage and shelf life. If stored for long periods, these containers may eventually corrode, crack, break, tear or fail to seal properly. Also, the label may become illegible. If a damaged container is found, transfer its contents to a similar sturdy container that can be sealed. Be sure to transfer the label to the new container. Never put a pesticide in a food or drink container!

Even with careful planning, it is sometimes necessary to carry pesticide stocks over from one year to the next. Check dates of purchase at the beginning of each season and use the oldest material first. To keep the label on a container intact and legible, cover it with transparent tape or lacquer.

Given proper storage, some pesticides may remain active for a number of years. By following the above guidelines, you can maximize their shelf life and your investment.

Source: Fredric Miller/Philip Nixon, Entomologists, University of Illinois

September

Overseeding & establishment (optimum time) - first week

Fertilization (key time) - first 2 weeks

Cultivation (aerification, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing

Postemergence broadleaf weed control to actively growing weeds (optimum time)

October

Postemergence broadleaf weed control (early in month) if weeds actively growing

Cultivation (aerification, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing.

November

Mowing until dormant

Late season fertilization within 1 week of final mowing of year

Boxelder Bugs

Description

Boxelder bugs are1/2 inch long dark brown or black insects with conspicuous red markings on their wings. There are two generations per year with second generation adults overwintering in protected sites, including buildings.

Habits

During the summer, these bugs live on boxelder trees, where they feed on seeds found on the tree and on the ground. When cool fall weather arrives, they migrate to buildings for protection. They cluster on the sides of the house. They crawl into cracks and crevices and eventually get into the walls. On warm days in winter, they can be found often in large numbers, on the south and west sides of the house in the sun. They may also move into the house interior at the same time.

Damage & Concerns

During the fall and winter they can be annoying in the house. Boxelder bugs do not feed on food or clothing nor reproduce in the house. They may spot curtains and wallpaper with their fecal material. Also, they will leave a red or purple stain if smashed.

Control

Non-chemical: If found indoors, remove by vacuuming. Remember not to crush them, or they will leave a red stain.

Caulk all cracks and crevices to reduce their chance of entering the home. They may still enter through doorways. Eliminating seed-bearing boxelder trees may help reduce the boxelder bug problem.

Chemical: Contact your local Extension office for current pesticide controls.

All America Selections Winners
New varieties of flowers, vegetables and plants that have been tested and proven to be superior for home garden performance.
http://www.all-americaselections.org/

National Garden Bureau
Formed in 1920 to provide information on gardening from seed.
http://www.ngb.org/

Species Tulips

Are you tired of replacing your hybrid tulips every few years? Would you like a tulip that naturalizes well? The answer lies in the selection of species tulips.

Species tulips are different than hybrid tulips. They perform best in rock garden-like locations. They require full sun and well-drained, almost gravelly soils that drain quickly between rains. When preparing the site, amend the area several inches wider and deeper than the bulbs will occupy with sand or gravel. Planting on a gentle slope or in a raised bed assures good drainage. Plant the bulbs 5 to 8 inches deep.

Species tulips are smaller in size than their hybrid relatives. Most grow just 4 to 12 inches in height and do not like the competition of other plants around them. Species tulips spread by self sown seed or stolons. Their foliage is attractive. Many have foliage which is mottled or gray to blue green in color. Species tulips offer more in the way of bloom. Many have multiple blooms per stem, some have up to 7.

Species tulips can be used with other spring blooming plants such as pasque flower or grape hyacinth. Siberian iris and crested iris also make excellent companions. Species tulips are also suitable for containers.

Some species to try include:

Tulipa batalinii has soft yellow, fragrant flowers appearing in early spring. It grows just 5 inches tall.

Tulipa clusiana grows 10 to 12 inches tall and blooms in early spring. The flowers have a white interior with crimson central star and a pink exterior. It naturalizes very well.

Tulipa greigii in pink, yellow, orange, red, buff, cream and apricot. It grows 8 to 12 inches tall and blooms in mid-spring. The blossoms are large, 4 to 5 inches when fully open.

Tulipa kaufmanniana grows 6 to 8 inches tall and is available in a wide variety of colors. It blooms in early spring.

Tulipa linifolia grows 4 to 6 inches tall with brilliant red flowers.

Tulipa pulchella is a tiny plant growing 3 to 5 inches tall. It has violet purple fragrant flowers in early spring.

Tulipa saxatillis naturalizes readily. The flowers, lavender-pink with a yellow base, appear mid-spring. Plants grow 6 to 8 inches tall.

Tulipa sylvestris grows 10 to 12 inches tall with fragrant yellow flowers. Flowers occur 3 to 7 per stem.

Tulipa tarda flowers are yellow with white tips. Plants grow 4 to 6 inches tall. This tulip is easy to grow.

Tulipa turkestanica has cream colored flowers occurring 3 to 5 per stem. Flowers appear in early spring. Plants grow 5 to 8 inches tall.

All the species tulips listed above are hardy in USDA hardiness zones 4 through 7 with the exception of T. pulchella and T. turkestanica. They are hardy in zones 5 to 8. Many more species tulips are available just waiting for the opportunity to grow in your garden.

Source: Sherry Rindels, Dept. Of Horticulture, Iowa State University

New Varieties for 2000

Gardeners are looking for new plants every year. Here are new flowers and vegetables that will be featured in 2000 mail order seed catalogs, seed packets or as bedding plants at garden centers. The varieties are listed alphabetically by class, with the seed source listed in parentheses after the description. The designation "R" means a retail seed company that gardeners may purchase seed directly from by mail order or also in stores that carry the variety in seed packets. A "W" designation indicates a wholesale seed company that does not sell directly to home gardeners, but these varieties should be available in catalogs or as bedding plants at garden centers next spring.

Begonia F1 hybrid tuberous 'Non-stop® Rose Petticoat
Eye catching bicolor Rose and White delight. 'Nonstops' are basal branching with 3-1/2 - 4-1/2" fully double blooms. Perfect for partial shade in patio containers, hanging baskets, flowerbeds. (Benary) W

Celosia 'Cramer's Amazon'
Discovered in Peru, this versatile tropical plant with its burgundy and bright green foliage, is used as a filler or landscaper. Produces a deep magenta flower (Johnny's Selected Seeds) R

Cleome serrulata 'Solo'
'Solo', the only thornless variety with very light pink to white flowers on top of a light green leafed plant. Suitable for direct sowing. Blooms about 8-10 weeks long. Seedpods give additional distinctive ornamental value to the plants. (Kieft) W

Impatiens F1 'Carnival'
Excellence pushed higher. Improved-White. New colors Metallic lilac and Salmon. Early flowering, extra compact vigorous uniform habitat. Resists stretching, proven heat tolerance and optimal cool climate performer. (Daehnfeldt) W

Impatiens 'Impulse Pink Picotee'
'Pink Picotee' flowers are shades of pink to rose, all with darker petal margins. Seed quality for 'Pink Picotee' is excellent - matching the rest of the Impulse series with a standard of 90% plus germination. (Novartis) W

Marigold 'Discovery Mix'
Hybrid, dwarf plants stay a neat 8-10" tall. Covered with double flowers in solid yellow and orange - each measuring nearly 3 inches across. (Garden Grow) R

Morning Glory 'Celestial' Mixture
Brings dazzling beauty to the garden midsummer to frost. Exciting, unique mix contains old- fashioned Heavenly Blue, Pearly Gates and new variety Blue Star, which opens to reveal a stunning blue and white pattern. (NK Lawn & Garden) R

Pansy 'Chalon Mix'
Unique ruffles Pansy series re-selected and restored to many of the colors "lost" over the years. Added yellow shades and bright white picotee types brighten this exclusive mixture. Flowering is early spring onwards. (Floranova) W

Petunia 'Coral Wave™'
Wildly popular 'Wave' makes another big splash with rich new Coral. Spreads to an amazing 4 feet. Takes hot, cold, rain. Flourishes everywhere. Super-easy to grow! Visit http://wave-rave.com for more details. (PanAmerican) W

Salvia horminum (viridis) 'Marble Arch Rose'
Uniform bushy plant having colored bracts with green veins. Improved color intensity and ornamental value of the colored bracts make the 'Marble Arch' Rose a good cut flower. (Kieft) W

Sunflower 'Kong' Hybrid
Is a monster of a sunflower! Giant plants tower up to 15 feet over the garden with strong, thick branching stems that are topped with large yellow flowers. Fun and easy to grow. (NK Lawn & Garden) R

Vegetables

Eggplant Hybrid 'Cloud Nine'
What if someone told you they had developed a pure white bitter-free variety that required no soaking? And the flavor is not only mild, it is sweet? That's 'Cloud Nine.' Produces beautiful oval fruits in about 75 days. (Seminis) W

Pepper 'Colossal'
Enjoy meal-sized stuffed peppers of 'Colossal,' a new large to extra-large hybrid bell pepper. Outstanding yield and versatility. Thick walls and tall vigorous plant provide good cover all season delivering high quality red and green fruit. (Novartis) W

Sweet Corn Hybrid 'For Heaven's Sake'
Finally an SE sweet corn bred specifically for home gardening. A wonderful quality yellow sweet corn that produces big, luscious ears that all look and taste alike, but mature at diferent times! (Seminis)W

Sweet Corn Hybrid 'Legend'
Exclusively from Park Seed, this SE type combines creamy consistency, amazing sweet flavor and excellent holding ability. In 68 days 7-9 inch ears are tightly packed with rich yellow kernels. Early, durable and delicious. (Park) R

Source: National Garden Bureau, August 1999

Evergreen Needles Turn Yellow

Don't be alarmed if you notice the interior needles of evergreens turning yellow. Pine, spruce and arborvitae are referred to as "evergreens" because of their habit of retaining needles throughout the winter, but needles don't last forever. Depending on the species, needles remain on the plant for several years until they reach maturity.

Once sufficient new growth has taken place at tips of branches, the older needles toward the center yellow and drop off having served their purpose of photosynthesis. Needles on white pine typically drop at the end of their second season. Red pine needles persist until the fourth or fifth season.

If you notice needles turning yellow on evergreens, take a closer look. If the yellowing is occurring on the interior of the plant and the current season's growth, at the tips of the branches, is healthy and normal, don't become alarmed. Check the plump green buds at the tips of the branches for next year's growth.

If new growth is weak or turning brown, root injury or canker disease may be involved. This summer's growing conditions placed trees under lots of stress resulting in browning of needles. There's no need to rake needles that fall. They serve as a mulch to keep weeds down if the soil is moist. The best thing you can do for your evergreens is provide a deep soaking to help them survive the winter.

September - Edible

Collect soil for soil testing. Call 773-233-0476 for a soil testing booklet.

Plant garlic - factsheet available.

Lettuce, kale, radishes and spinach can be seeded for a fall harvest.

Pick your own orchards are open. For a free listing of orchards give us a call or check out our Apples & More web site at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/apples

Plant a green manure crop in empty garden areas. Factsheet available.

September - Ornamental

Pull out dying annuals.

Plant mums, kale, flowering cabbage or pansies.

Divide daylilies.

Mildew will develop but fungicides are not needed this late in the season.

Plant shrub roses.

Slugs become active in cooler weather. Control with slug bait or stale beer in shallow pans. Factsheet available.

Do not fertilize roses. If fertilized new growth will not harden off before winter.

Plant spring flowering bulbs. Factsheet available.

Core-aerate your lawn.

Check out our Bulbs & More web site at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/bulbs/

Prune diseased, damaged or broken stems and branches.

Divide perennials.

Plant lilies.

Reseed lawn in early September. Factsheet available.

Plant trees & shrubs. Factsheet available.

September - Indoors

Take cuttings from coleus. Will root easily in water.

Bring in houseplants.

October - Edible

Pick Brussels sprouts.

Take the family to a pumpkin farm for those Halloween pumpkins. For a free listing call our office or check out our web site at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/pumpkins/index.html

Ripen green tomatoes indoors. Wrap individually in newspaper.

Remove plant debris from the vegetable garden to reduce insect and disease problems.

Cut up old plants after frost and spread over garden beds and dig in.

Add a 2-4" layer of organic matter to garden soil. Dig in 6-8" deep.

October - Ornamental

Pick and dry seed heads for dried arrangements. Factsheet available.

Transplant trees and shrubs. Factsheet available.

Check out the Miracle of Fall web site at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/fallcolor/

Mow lawn as long as the grass is growing.

Do not winter prune roses until leaves have dropped.

Dig up tender plants such as gladioli, tuberous begonias cannas and dahlias. Factsheet available.

Become a Master Gardener. Applications available.

Continue to plant spring flowering bulbs.

Pot bulbs for forcing indoors. Factsheet available.

Water newly planted bulbs.

Fertilize bulbs with a 10-10-10 fertilizer at the rate of l lb/100 square feet. Water in.

Plant bulbs in groups.

Squeeze a bulb before planting. It should be firm, not soft. Throw away soft bulbs.

Cover plants with a couple of layers of newspaper held in place with rocks for frost protection.

Rake leaves and start a compost pile. Booklet available.

Put up bird feeder for birds. Factsheet available.

October - Indoors

Bring wax begonias indoors for winter bloom. Wash soil from roots and pot in a soil mix. Place in a sunny window.

Start a worm bin. Factsheet available or check out our site at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/worms/

Reduce fertilization and watering of houseplants as days get shorter.

High Blood Pressure

High blood pressure (hypertension) is a common problem. It affects one in five Americans. High blood pressure is a pattern of consistently elevated blood pressure as determined by several blood pressure measurements using the same equipment under relaxed conditions. Blood pressure readings measure the amount of pressure exerted on arteries during two phases of the heartbeat, contraction and resting. Normal BP is 140 over 90 or less.

A diagnosis of high blood pressure is a serious matter, although it usually does not give any warning signals until serious damage has been done. Left untreated, high blood pressure increases the risk of strokes, heart disease and kidney failure. In most cases, there is no easily identified cause for elevated blood pressure.

Researchers have produced high blood pressure in test animals by feeding them a high salt diet. It is a well established fact that the sodium in salt and processed foods increases blood pressure in most people, once the diagnosis of high blood pressure has been made. Salt naturally contains more sodium than any other food in the human diet. Salt serves as both a preservative and a flavor enhancer in foods.

Salt (or sodium) plays an important role in the commercial production and preservation of food products. When sodium is isolated from salt, it is tasteless. Therefore, processed foods can be high in sodium without tasting salty.

Experts do not claim that salt is the sole cause of high blood pressure, but if you are salt sensitive it is a real hazard. Recent research suggests that individuals vary greatly in their response to sodium. However, at this time there is no reliable means for distinguishing highly salt sensitive patients from those who are less sensitive. According to the 1999 John Hopkins White Paper on Hypertension, sodium may be more detrimental to blood pressure in the elderly (over 60) than younger patients.

The researchers also concluded that a high salt diet has no known health benefits. In light of these findings, experts advise patients to maintain their intakes at low to moderate levels. A healthy diet rich in fruits, vegetables, low-fat dairy products and whole grains and moderate amounts of animal protein was also very effective in reducing blood pressure. The dietary information is one of the most significant recent advances in the field of hypertension prevention. In the Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension (DASH) trial investigators found significant improvement in blood pressure by making certain dietary changes in patients (for more information, see the following resources.)

Avoiding salt (sodium) in processed foods has been made easier by labeling laws, which require manufacturers to determine the level of sodium per serving. The Nutrition Facts panel on processed foods states the amount of sodium in a suggested serving, not the amount in the entire package.

Because sodium is tasteless, reading the label is your best defense against eating too much sodium. For example, a serving of pancakes (2 pancakes) prepared from a mix can contain 3 to 4 times more sodium than a serving of salted peanuts. The pancakes do not taste salty but the peanuts do. Remember salt is not the dietary villain, rather it is sodium.

Obesity, age, existing chronic disease, high blood cholesterol, race, as well as other factors heighten the risk of high blood pressure. Weight loss has been proven to be very effective in the treatment of high blood pressure. Drug therapy (prescribed medications), life-style changes (diet and exercise) and behavior changes (reduced stress) can be equally important. A "treatment program" consisting of several parts has been most successful in reducing the death rate due to high blood pressure.

With early, if not lifelong treatment, one can survive high blood pressure. Simply popping a pill as prescribed by your doctor is not very effective. Working with your doctor in finding the treatment program that works best for you is important. Research indicates that 30 to 40 percent of patients with poorly controlled high blood pressure suffer strokes, heart attacks and kidney failure because they do not stick to their treatment program.

Poor compliance is understandable since many patients have no symptoms and are expected to make undesirable lifestyle changes and take costly medications that may cause unpleasant side effects. Remember those who have gone before you. High blood pressure isn't called the "silent killer" for nothing.

For more information on high blood pressure and the latest treatment methods, visit the National Heart, Lung and Blood Institute website at http://www.nhlbi.nih.gov/index.htm or call the center at 800-575-WELL

Everyone needs a good night's sleep. It can leave you feeling wonderfully refreshed and better able to face the next day's activities. Yet, researchers do not know why sleep is necessary. There is a great deal known about what disturbs sleep and how to improve sleep habits.

Sleep Cycles

The sleep cycle alternates between two phases of sleep, which are called Rapid Eye Movement or REM sleep and non-REM sleep. Non-REM is the first phase. During this phase of sleep the five senses shut down, the body relaxes and brain activity is slow and regular. Given time, the sleeper falls deeper into more restful sleep making it more difficult to be awakened. This phase seems to be most restorative and beneficial to the body. It is referred to as delta sleep.

If you are fatigued, you will spend more time in delta sleep during the nights that follow. According to research, 70 to 90 minutes after falling asleep, one moves into REM sleep. During this phase the sleepers eyes begin to dart back and forth behind closed lids, heart beat increases, toes and fingers twitch, breathing becomes more rapid and brain activity is stimulated. It is during this phase that the sleeper dreams, often vividly and in living color. REM sleep lasts about ten minutes, completing about a 90 minute cycle of sleep. This ninety-minute cycle repeats itself over and over again during the night.

During restful delta sleep several things happen:

• Hormones are released that help to restore worn out tissue.
• Red blood cells are renewed.
• We are restored mentally.

How Much Sleep Is Needed?

Studies confirm that even after being awake for several days, most people are renewed after only one good night's sleep. A good night's sleep has been defined as the amount of sleep which leaves one feeling refreshed, alert and in good spirits.

There are wide ranges in how much sleep people need to achieve this feeling. While some people need 8 hours of sleep, others may need 10 or as little as 6 hours. The most important factor seems to be how much sound (or delta) sleep one gets rather than the total hours spent sleeping.

Getting a Good Night's Sleep

• Avoid stimulants just before bedtime. Coffee, tea, exercise and nicotine are stimulants.
• Exercise in the morning or early evening and avoid alcohol, as it can distort sleep stages.
• Relax by taking a warm bath or shower, reading or listening to music an hour or so before bedtime.
• Try to establish a regular sleep schedule by going to bed at about the same time every night.
• Avoid naps during the day.
• Prepare your bedroom by making it as dark as possible, as quiet as possible and with a comfortable temperature.

If you often have difficulty falling asleep, suffer from chronic or severe insomnia, these suggestions may not work for you. You should visit a sleep disorder clinic or see a doctor to find out what your problem may be. Nighty night!

Peaches are the third most popular fruit in the nation, behind apples and oranges, respectively. Now is the time to eat peaches. Farmers' markets, roadside stands and grocery stores are loaded with blushing, sweet, fragrant, juicy peaches.

Of course, peaches are best eaten fresh, but, with so many around they can be frozen, canned and used in a variety of ways. Now is the time to add a sliced peach to a bowl of read-to-eat cereal to enhance the flavor and nutritional value.

Locally grown peaches purchased at this time of year are sweeter and juicier than winter peaches imported from Chile, Mexico and New Zealand available November through April. Winter peaches are often mealy and dry.

Peaches do not get any sweeter once they are picked. They do get softer and juicier, but never sweeter. That is why it is important to avoid rock hard peaches that were picked when they were still green.

• Look for peaches that show a background of color; yellow or creamy with a rosy blush on their cheeks. Avoid peaches with green undertones, they were picked too early.
• Look for peaches with smooth, unwrinkled skin and no blemishes or bruises.
• Choose peaches that give slightly at the seam when pressed with your thumb, even though the rest of the peach is firm.
• Sniff the stem end of the peach. You should be able to smell the peachy fragrance.
• Leave peaches at room temperature a day or two to soften. Then store ripe peaches in the refrigerator. They will keep for 3 to 5 days.
• Look out for peaches with tan circles, an early sign of decay.

You may have noticed that peaches in the grocery store are "fuzzless." There are no fuzzless varieties. Most people do not like fuzz, so commercial growers mechanically brush peaches after harvest to remove the fuzz. You will still find fuzzy peaches at the farmers' markets, orchards and roadside stands.

To skin peaches: cut an X on the blossom end with a sharp knife. Place them in a pot of boiling water for about a minute and cool them in ice water for about the same length of time. Then pull the skin off with your fingertips or use a paring knife. Peeled peaches will quickly turn brown, so coat them with lemon juice or orange juice to maintain the bright color.

Jiffy Peach Cobbler

In baking a peach cobbler, the greatest challenge is in making the crust. This batter crust is foolproof and oh so delicious. The batter bakes into a crust without all that rolling.

1 quart peaches, skinned and sliced*
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup sugar
1 stick butter or margarine
1 cup flour
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 cup skim milk

1. In a saucepan combine sliced peaches, sugar and water. Heat over medium heat stirring often until the sugar has dissolved and the peaches are hot. Remove from heat and set aside.

2. Melt butter or margarine in a 10 inch skillet or deep dish pie pan.

3. Mix together flour, 1 cup sugar, baking powder, salt and cinnamon. Stir in the milk. Mix well.

4. Pour batter over the melted butter or margarine.

5. Pour peaches and syrup over all. Sprinkle with additional sugar and cinnamon if desired.

6. Bake at 350 degrees for 30 to 40 minutes, until golden brown. Serve warm or chilled.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

* Substitute one quart of canned peaches and all of the syrup (light, medium or heavy).

Salad bars can be your nutritional "best friend," but not all salad bar ingredients are equal in calories, sodium (salt) and nutritional value. If you are not careful, a salad from a salad bar can provide more sodium than you should eat all day long. Avoid or go easy on high sodium items if you have been diagnosed with high blood pressure or if you want to limit your sodium intake.

High Sodium Items

• Pickled beets, 1/2 cup = 300 mg. sodium
• Olives, green, 4 medium = 12 mg. sodium
• Olives, black, 2 small = 68 mg. sodium
• Cottage cheese, regular or low fat, 1/2 cup = 455 to 459 mg. sodium
• Potato salad, 1/2 cup = 661 mg. sodium
• Shredded American cheese, 1 ounce = 406 mg. sodium
• Dill pickles, 1 (65 grams) = 928 mg. sodium
• Sweet pickles, 1 (15 grams) small = 107 mg. sodium
• Bacon bits (imitation) 1 tablespoon = 120 mg. sodium

Salad Dressings (use sparingly)

• Blue Cheese dressing, 1 tablespoon = 165 mg. sodiu
• French dressing, 1 tablespoon = 220 mg. sodium
• Italian dressing, 1 tablespoon = 315 mg. sodium
• Thousand Island dressing, 1 tablespoon = 110 mg. sodium

Deli Meats

• Salami, 1 slice = 226 mg. sodium
• Turkey salami, 1 slice = 368 mg. sodium
• Turkey breast, 1 ounce = 339 mg. sodium
• Smoked ham, 1 ounce = 300 mg. sodium
• Honey ham, 1 ounce = 270 mg. sodium

Low Sodium, Low Calorie Items

• Olive oil or vinegar = 0 mg. sodium
• Dried herbs, sprinkle = 0 mg. sodium
• Fresh or canned fruit, 1/2 cup = 2 to 8 mg. sodium
• Fresh melon, 1/2 honeydew or cantaloupe = 13 to 24 mg. sodium
• Chick peas, 1/2 cup = 11 mg. sodium
• Cucumber, lettuce, radishes, green onions, mushrooms, bean sprouts, shredded carrots, red cabbage, green peppers, cauliflower, tomatoes, 1/2 cup = 2 to 20 mg. sodium
• Spinach or broccoli, 1 cup = 41 to 43 mg. sodium

Treating Bee Stings

Ouch!! Frantically swatting at a bee is not good defense. Try to calmly walk away from the insect and it will probably leave you alone. Bees are generally looking for pollen from flowers; they do not seek out people just to sting them. Wearing fragrances such as perfume, scented hair spray or cologne will attract bees, as they will have mistaken you for a flower. In the event that a bee persists and you get stung while out at the beach or picnic grounds, follow these first aid guidelines.

If you are allergic to bee stings, get to the nearest hospital emergency room as soon as possible. Administer the following first aid while enroute to emergency.

• When stung by a bee, the venom sac remains in your flesh, releasing venom long after the bee flies away. First remove the stinger. Do not squeeze the area, this only pushes more venom into your body. Remove the stinger by scraping a flat edge such as a credit card, stick, plastic knife, spoon, etc., over the area as quickly as possible.

• Once the stinger has been removed, the area may swell to a hard lump and become sore. Apply a cold compress such as ice, a cold can of pop, beer or whatever is available to reduce the swelling and soreness.

• Take an analgesic such as acetaminophen (like Tylenol) or anti-inflammatories, such as Ibuprofen as soon as possible to relieve pain and further reduce swelling.

Apples & More

"An apple a day, helps to keep the doctor away." The update on an old adage makes it more in line with current research in diet and it's relationship to chronic disease. Apples are a good source of dietary fiber, both soluble and insoluble. The soluble kind is mostly pectin. Studies indicate that pectin and other soluble fibers are effective in lowering cholesterol.

The insoluble part helps to keep your intestinal tract healthy and functional. Aside from the health aspect, apples taste good. They travel well, store well and are easy to eat out-of-hand. The best apples are locally grown and fall signals apple picking time. For information on where to pick apple, nutritional information, recipes and additional information visit our web site, Apples & More at

www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/apples

or call the Extension office at 773-233-0476 or the local Extension office nearest you. You can also visit our Illinois Fresh web site at

www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/fresh/

• the Food & Drug Administration (FDA approved a cholesterol lowering margarine last May? McNeil Consumer Healthcare, a division of Johnson & Johnson, developed the new margarine. The spread will be sold with a claim "generally recognized as safe," under the name Benecol. Benecol, which has been shown to lower levels of LDL cholesterol (the bad kind) in the blood stream by as much as 14 percent, blocks the absorption of cholesterol in the digestive tract. The margarine contains plant esters from wood pulp which has been shown to lower cholesterol levels. A similar spread has been on the market in Finland since 1995 and another was introduced in Britain in March of this year. The product will be rather expensive, $4.99 for a container of 21 servings. Wow! FDA has also approved a second cholesterol lowering margarine produced by Lipton called "Take Control." Competition should drive prices down. --- Community Nutrition Institute, Nutrition Week, Vol.XXIX, No. 20 May 1999

• there is toothpaste on the market that actually fights gum disease? It has been proven to fight decay and plaque build-up as well. The formula contains the anti-microbial agent triclosan, plus a sealant that "holds" the triclosan on your teeth for up to 14 hours. The FDA approved the first anti-bacterial toothpaste last year. It is currently being marketed by Colgate under the name "Total."

• many health problems are linked to excess body weight? According to the American Institute of Cancer Research (AICR), being overweight increases the risk of cancer in general, while obesity is strongly linked to cancer of the endometrium (lining of the uterus). Obesity probably also increases the risk of cancers of the breast (especially in postmenopausal women) and kidney and possibly cancers of the colon and gall bladder. For more information, booklets and materials from the AICR call the Nutrition Hotline at 1-800-843-8114, 9 am to 5 pm, Eastern time, Monday thru Friday or visit the website at www.aicr.org