Scabiosa columbaria 'Butterfly Blue'

Hardiness: Grows reliably in USDA Hardiness Zones 3-9.

Light: Full sun to light shade.

Soil: Well-drained, consistently moist soil.

Uses: Use massed in the front of the border with annuals or perennials. Combine this excellent three-season plant with spring, summer and fall flowering perennials. This perennial is good for containers and cutting gardens.

Unique Qualities: The long-blooming perennial with 2 inch lavender-blue flowers adds a delicate touch to the garden. It blooms from mid-spring to early fall on 12 to 15 inch sturdy stems. Keep easy-to-grow Scabiosa deadheaded for continuous bloom. The plant is desirable as a long-lasting cut flower. Pincushion flower is insect and disease resistant and attracts butterflies.

Planting Information: Container grown plants may be planted at any time during the growing season. Space 12-18 inches apart. Water well until plants are established.

Source: Perennial Plant Association

Lawn care do-it-yourselfers can save some serious money by following a few tips from a turf specialist in Penn State's College of Agricultural Sciences.

Dollar for dollar, fertilization does more to revitalize thin, weedy lawns than any other single management practice. With more user-friendly products on the market, lawn fertilization has never been easier - provided you follow a few basic steps.

The first step is to take a soil test. Soil testing booklets are available from our office by simply giving us a call at 773-233-0476.

Next buy fertilizer. Fertilizer should be bought on the basis of its quality, not the size of the bag or the price. The value depends on the amount and source of nutrients in the bag. Fertilizer labels have three numbers that designate the percentages of nitrogen, phosphate and potash in the bag. A 30-3-10 analysis, for example, means that the product contains 30 percent nitrogen, 3 percent phosphate and 10 percent potash. Lawns usually require annual applications of all three of these nutrients with some lawns needing higher amounts than others. Your soil test report will provide information on which fertilizer is best for your lawn.

Some products contain "slow-release nitrogen" or "water insoluble nitrogen." It's a good idea to have some slow-release nitrogen fertilizer in the bag. This will provide longer lasting green-up and reduce the chance of fertilizer burn. However, if all or most of the product is slow-release nitrogen, green-up of the lawn can be very slow. It may take weeks or even months to occur.

Next, homeowners must buy or rent a spreader, unless they already own one. There are two types of spreaders for lawn fertilization - rotary and drop types. Rotary spreaders will do the job faster than drop spreaders since they are equipped with a rotating apparatus that throws the fertilizer out in a wide swath. Thus, fewer passes are required to cover the lawn. Drop spreaders typically are more accurate, but since they don't throw the fertilizer, the swath is narrower and more passes are needed to cover the lawn.

Rotary spreaders are more practical for larger lawns, while drop spreaders are only suitable for small to medium-sized lawns. Many lawn fertilizers now contain spreader settings on the label. The setting, usually a number or letter, controls the amount of fertilizer applied. Look for a fertilizer that lists your spreader type (rotary vs. drop type) and model on the bag, then adjust the setting accordingly.

Source: Penn State University

What grasses are best to use for lawns in our area? What kind of fertilizer is best and when should it be put on the lawn? What can be done about crabgrass, dandelions and moss? These are among the the topics homeowners in the Cook County area often ask about lawns. The answers to these and many more lawn care questions can be found in a University of Illinois Extension Program called the Lawn Challenge. This home lawn self-study program includes three lessons, each with a quiz. The lessons will be mailed at weekly intervals. Lessons include: selecting and establishing lawn in northern Illinois; lawn maintenance practices and managing home lawn pests and problems common to northern Illinois. Among the specific topics discussed include the best grasses for our area, dealing with shady sites, how to avoid planting mistakes, all about lawn fertilizing, lawn repair, managing weeds (including crabgrass) and moss, grub control and disease management.

Subscription for the program is $10. Send your name and mailing address along with a check made payable to University of Illinois to: Lawn Challenge, University of Illinois Extension, 3807 West 111th Street, Chicago, IL 60655. After completing the program, you'll be all set to have a great looking lawn in 2000!

Like a bullfrog announcing the onset of summer, the drone of lawn mowers soon will fill the air. If you plan to cut grass this season, keep safety in mind. Each year in the United States mower injuries result in tens of thousands of emergency room admissions.

As with any tool, lawn mowers can injure people or damage property whether or not they are operated safely. By striving for safety, using common sense, taking your time and having respect for the machinery, you can help keep your property intact and your anatomy in one piece.

Before starting the mower, ensure that adjustable items, such as the wheels and handle, are set to the proper height. Trying to adjust almost anything on the go increases the odds that the mower will jump up and bite you.

Check the blade. It should be straight, sharp and free of nicks. Dull blades tear rather than cut the grass. Badly bent blades are a hazard not only because they can cause vibration and ensuing mechanical failures, but they also do a poor job of cutting and can place the tip of the blade below the lower edge of the mower deck. This puts the blade in a position to pick up rocks and debris, not to mention toes that may be in the wrong place at the wrong time.

Before you begin mowing, check the lawn for obstacles such as sticks, stones and toys. Even small rotary lawn mowers can fling objects at speeds of more than 200 miles per hour. A quick walk through the yard will minimize the chance that you or someone else will be hit by flying debris.

Additional safe mowing guidelines:

...Start the mower on level ground and if it's a rope starter, always keep one foot on the proper location on the deck.

...Let a hot engine cool for 5 minutes before fueling.

...Fill the fuel tank outdoors and move the fuel container away from the mower when starting it.

...Make sure discharge chutes, deflector shields and baggers are securely in place.

...Wear protective shoes and clothing, including eye and ear protection.

...Keep bystanders - such as children or pets -- at a safe distance, at least 100 feet.

...Never reach into the discharge area to unclog the chute.

...Patience is a virtue while mowing. Rest if you feel fatigued.

After mowing take a moment for some basic mower upkeep. Let the mower cool. Then remove the dirt and damp grass from under the mower deck. You'll double the life of the mower deck if you do this as a matter of habit. It's a hassle, but it works. To prevent accidental engine ignition, disconnect the spark plug wire before reaching under the mower.

Watch for signs of wear or fracture anywhere on the machine. If something looks amiss, either replace it or fix it immediately. Don't wire it or tape it together. Remember, duct tape on the machine often can lead to surgical tape on your body.

For riding mowers, at the end of the grass cutting season, drain the fuel tank, change the oil and remove and store the battery in a dry place. Keep the mower in a dry, protected location until it's needed again.

Source: Penn State University

The Pennsylvania Horticultural Society's Gold Medal Plant Awards honor little-known and underutilized woody ornamentals that are well suited to the mid-Atlantic region (USDA Hardiness Zones 5-7) and have low maintenance requirements, high disease resistance and extraordinary beauty. Horticultural researchers, commercial growers and garden designers evaluate award candidates growing at sites between New York City and Washington, D.C. Anyone may nominate a plant for consideration (at least three landscape-sized specimens must be assessable for evaluation and a program of propagation must be underway); for an entry form call 215-988-8800. The deadline for submission is November 15.

Six Gold Medal Plant Award winners for 2000 were recently announced in the PHS Green Scene magazine (an excellent source of information for East Coast gardeners and a bargain at just $16.95 for six bimonthly issues; order from The Pennsylvania Horticultural Society, P. O. Box 7780-1839, Philadelphia, PA 19182-1642). Below are brief descriptions of the winners with retail mail-order nursery sources for each. You could also check with your local garden centers. These plants will be promoted in the nursery trade to ensure their availability; this effort is receiving substantial financial support from the Chanticleer Foundation of Pennsylvania.

Acer buergerianum (trident maple): Hardy in Zones 5-9; "an ideal small tree for today's landscape"; native to China; grows slowly to 20-30 feet high and 20-30 feet across; tends to have multiple low branches but can be trained with one stem; three-lobed leaves are bronze to purple when new, becoming glossy dark green and then yellow, orange and red in late October or early November; seed pods are light brown when mature; can self-seed but won't become a nuisance; light shade facilitates grass growth beneath the canopy; exfoliating bark of older trees is gray -brown-orange; few problems but can be damaged by winter storms and can require supplementary water in drought periods when young; best performance in good soil; tolerant of pollution. Sources: Arbor Village Farm Nursery, Box 227, Holt, MO 64048, phone 816-264-3911; Camellia Forest Nursery, 125 Carolina Forest Road, Chapel Hill, NC 27516, phone 919-968-0504; Colvos Creek Nursery, Box 1512, Vashon Island, WA 98070, phone 206-749-9508; Greer Gardens, 1280 Goodpasture Island Road, Eugene, OR 97401-1794, phone 541-686-8266; Beaver Creek Nursery, 7526 Pelleaux Road, Knoxville, TN 37938, phone 423-922-3961; Woodlanders, Inc., 1128 Colleton Ave., Aiken, SC 29801, phone 803-648-7522; Louisiana Nursery, 5853 Hwy. 182, Opelousas, LA 70570.

Aronia arbutifolia 'Brilliantissima' (red chokeberry): Hardy in Zones 4-9; a deciduous shrub native to the eastern U.S.; grows slowly to 5-10 feet high and 3-5 feet across; upright and multi-stemmed; gradually forms colonies as it spreads by suckers; in spring, flowers are pinkish white; glossy, dark green leaves turn scarlet in fall; glossy red fruits attract birds in late winter; easy to transplant; tolerant of poor soil; best fruiting in full sun, but tolerates half shade; withstands flooding and salt; not threatened by pests or diseases; can become "leggy"; recommended for mass plantings. Sources: Arbor Village Farm Nursery (address above)); Green Gardens (address above); Beaver Creek Nursery (address above); Woodlanders, Inc. (Address above); Windrose Nursery, 1093 Mill Road, Pen Argyl, PA 18072-9670, phone 610-588-1037; Fairweather Gardens, P. O. Box 330, Greenwich, NJ 08323, phone 856-451-6261; Eastern Plant Specialties, Box 226, Georgetown, ME 04548, phone 732-382-2508; Louisiana Nursery (address above).

Parrotia persica (parrotia): Hardy in Zones 4-8; an "elegant" small single or multi-stemmed tree or multi-stemmed shrub related to witch hazel and native to Iran; grows to 20-40 feet high and 15-30 feet across; new leaves are reddish purple, changing to shiny green and then yellow orange and scarlet in late fall; flowering is very early (February to April); very attractive exfoliating bark on older trees; highly tolerant of dry, windy, hot and cold conditions; subject to transplant shock; best in well-drained, slightly acid soil and full sun; recommended for specimen planting and as a street tree in cramped quarters. Sources: Arbor Village Farm Nursery (address above); Greer Gardens (address above); Beaver Creek Nursery (address above); Woodlanders, Inc. (Address above); Roslyn Nursery, 211 Burrs Lane, Dix Hills, NY 11746, phone 516-643-9374; WE-DU Nursery, Rt. 5, Box 724, Marion, NC 28752, phone 828-738-8300; Windrose Nursery (address above); Fairweather Gardens (address above); Louisiana Nursery (address above).

Quercus alba (white oak): Hardy in Zones 3-9; common in eastern deciduous forests, but underutilized in landscapes (in part due to production difficulties associated with its deep tap root), this stately tree grows slowly to 80-100 feet height and spread; attractive fall foliage color; acorns attract wildlife; best in acid soil and full sun; tolerates salt, but susceptible to ozone pollution, flooding and soil compaction and grade changes; some minor pests; generally more expensive at nurseries than pin oaks or red oaks. Sources: Arbor Village Farm Nursery (address above); Woodlanders, Inc. (Address above); Windrose Nursery (address above); Louisiana Nursery (address above).

Syringa meyeri 'Palabin' (Meyer lilac): Hardy in Zones 3-7; a small shrub native to northern China; grows to 4-8 feet high and about 4 feet across; dense branches; leaves are resistant to mildew, unlike those of common lilac (Syringa vulgaris); flowers profusely and very fragrantly in May (at the same time as Wisteria floribunda); requires very little attention (pruning to groundline recommended every four years, once flowering has begun); best in good soil and full sun; useful for massing and in borders. Sources: Arbor Village Farm Nursery (address above); Greer Gardens (address above); Beaver Creek Nursery (address above); Woodlanders, Inc. (Address above); Roslyn Nursery (address above); Windrose Nursery(address above).

Weigela florida 'Alexandra' Wine & Roses™ (weigela): Hardy in Zones 4-8; an "old-fashioned" shrub originally brought to the U. S. from Japan in the 1800s; out of favor currently, mainly due to somewhat sloppy-looking habit and unattractive texture in winter, but well-suited to urban landscapes; grows to 4-5 feet high and wide; dark purple leaves; rose-pink blooms in May and June (on the previous year's growth); no major pests or diseases; tolerant of pollution; best in moist but well-drained soil and full sun; attractive to hummingbirds; Sources: Arbor Village Farm Nursery (address above); Roslyn Nursery (address above); Fairweather Gardens (address above).

When it comes to buying trees, a Penn State horticulturist says you should treat the purchase with the same care you would use when buying a new car - after all, chances are the tree will be around longer than the car.

While an ornamental tree is nowhere near the price of a new car, you can save time, money and frustration by making sure your new tree is top quality.

Inspect the tree's general appearance first. The trunk should be reasonably straight and the crown of the tree should be symmetrical.

When you closely examine the crown, no branches should extend from the trunk at angles less than 45 degrees. Narrow branch angles can cause structural problems as the tree grows.

Close observation of the tree's trunk can reveal problem areas that are easily recognizable, even to the greenest of gardeners. He suggests shoppers look for:

Damage. Check for signs of cuts, scrapes or recent pruning. A wound that is more than a quarter of the trunk's circumference is too large and can affect future health.

Flaws. Look for areas that are discolored, sunken or swollen, all of which indicate problems beneath the bark.

Borer damage. Check for small circular holes in the bark.

Cracks. Frost damage can cause shallow cracks in the bark.

The general size of the tree can be an accurate indication of quality. By measuring the trunk diameter at six inches above ground level and the size of the root ball, shoppers can estimate how tall the tree should be.

Here are some general guidelines to estimate tree growth and health:

• A trunk diameter of 1 1/2 inches translates to a tree between nine and 13 feet tall. The root ball should be at least 20 inches in diameter.

• A trunk diameter of 2 inches translates to a tree between 13 and 15 feet tall. The root ball should be at least 24 inches in diameter.

• A tree with a 3 inch trunk diameter should grow to between 14 and 16 feet tall. The root ball should be at least 32 inches in diameter.

• The size of the root ball should be roughly proportional to the crown or area of branch spread of the tree. If the root ball is too small, it may not have enough roots to establish the tree.

• Also, feel the surface of the root ball on trees that have been balled and burlapped. The root ball should be firm and solid. Check for pruned roots and girdling roots, which are roots that wrap around the lower trunk. Girdling roots often are found about half an inch below the soil line.

Once you buy the tree, it's important to care for it. Plant it as soon as you get home. If that's not possible, make sure to keep the root ball out of the sun and keep the burlap moist.

Source: Penn State University

National Gardening Magazine Article Library
http://www.wowpages.com/nga/edit/search.html
A wealth of gardening articles.

About.com - Gardening
http://gardening.miningco.com/home/gardening/mbody.htm
Lots of gardening resources.

Learn Termite Warning Signs Before Your House Becomes a Meal

If you're a homeowner, you probably had your house inspected for termites before you bought it. But even if no termites were found at the time of purchase, you still should watch for these pests.

To protect your investment and save yourself a lot of trouble, learn the signs of possible termite infestation. One symptom of infestation, swarming termites, usually takes place in the spring.

In nature, termites perform a beneficial function by breaking down wood and cellulose for use by other organisms. In buildings, they may feed on structural wood, wood fixtures, paper, books, cotton and related products. When structural damage becomes apparent, it usually is the result of years of infestation. Generally, termite problems only occur 10 or more years after construction.

Eastern subterranean termites can be found in Illinois. These social insects live in colonies underground, where they feed mostly on old roots, tree stumps and fallen limbs.

Each colony consists of three castes: workers, soldiers and winged reproductives. The workers are creamy-white and are rarely seen unless infested wood is broken open. These quarter-inch-long termites are the ones that feed on wood and cause damage. The soldiers have elongated yellowish heads with large jaws and are about the same size as adult workers. They protect the colony in case of invasion.

The kings and queens, or reproductives, are dark brown or black and reach up to one-half-inch long. They have two pairs of wings, which drop off shortly after they have "swarmed" to begin new colonies.

During this time, swarms may be found inside infested structures. Sometimes, their shed wings are the only evidence that termites are present. Although the reproductives don't cause damage, swarming termites or their wings alone are sure signs that termites are working in a building.

Because winged termites often are confused with winged ants, it's important to know how to tell the difference. Ants have narrow, wasp-like waists, while termites have broad waists. Also, the wings of an ant are about the same length as its body, but a termite's wings are about twice the length of its body.

Termite tubes are another danger signal to watch for. Because they prefer dark, moist conditions, termites make these earth-colored tubes primarily as protected runways from the earth to the wood they feed on. They also may serve as swarming exits for winged termites.

Look for these tubes on cellar walls, wooden posts, exterior masonry and trim around doors and windows.

Wood attacked by termites has channels or passages coated with an earth-like material. Where the wood has been infested for some time, it may be largely hollowed out with passages and may look rotten. When such wood is probed with a screwdriver, many worker termites spill out.

Most infestations occur in basements and in the structural timbers just above cellar walls. Wooden posts, steps, door frames and trim embedded in an earthen or concrete floor are especially susceptible. Termites particularly favor areas around furnaces, chimneys and hot water heaters and pipes that provide warmth during winter.

Here are several structural control recommendations:

• Remove all wooden debris from around the building. Replace wooden posts, steps, trellises and other structures that contact the soil with noncellulose materials or pressure-treated lumber.

• Replace badly damaged timbers with sound materials. Where possible, don't allow wood within 18 inches of the soil.

• Provide adequate ventilation and drainage for basements, cellars & crawl spaces.

• Fill all visible cracks and voids in the foundation with concrete or caulking compound.

• Reduce soil moisture around the structure by directing run-off away from the foundation. Be sure gutters and downspouts are installed and working correctly.

If you find termites or suspect an infestation find a reputable professional to inspect the building and implement control measures. Contact at least three licensed pest control operators for estimates.

Source: Penn State University

National Garden Bureau, Inc. Plant of the Year
The National Garden Bureau has declared the year 2000 as the year of the sweet corn and zinnia. Factsheets on both are available from U of I Extension.

Making Bamboo Fences and Trellises
This four-page well-illustrated bulletin is available free by telephone request from the Gardener's Supply Company (800-955-3370). The bulletin shows how to construct two different styles of bamboo fencing and provides suggestions on wall and tripod trellising with bamboo supports.

All-America Rose Selections Sweepstakes
During the month of February, you can enter this sweepstakes by filling out a form at the AARS web site (www.rose.org) or by mailing a postcard with your name, address and daytime phone to All-America Rose Selections Sweepstakes, 221 N. LaSalle, Suite 3500, Chicago, IL 60601 (postmarked no later than February 29, 2000). The grand prize winner will receive 12 rose bushes in time for spring planting - four of each All-America Rose Selection winner for 2000 ('Crimson Bouquet,' 'Gemini,' and 'Kock Out'). The runner-up will receive six rose bushes - two of each AARS winner for 2000. Winners will be selected by a random drawing.

Thomas Jefferson Center for Historic Plants
The Center, established in 1987, is sponsored by the Thomas Jefferson Memorial Foundation, Inc.; it collects, preserves and distributes plants documented in American gardens prior to 1900. Twinleaf, published annually by the Center, includes a catalogue of historic seeds and plants available by mail. The current issue for 2000 (number 12) has articles on the flower diaries of Jefferson and some of his contemporaries and also on Jefferson's favorite vegetables. The price is $2 postpaid (make your check or money order payable to the Thomas Jefferson Memorial Foundation) from Twinleaf Catalogue, P. O. Box 316, Charlottesville, VA 22902.

Trellises, Arbors and Plant Supports
Garden Trellises (Box 105, LaFayette, NY 13084, phone 800-498-0584) offers a free catalog of trellise and plant supports made from copper and galvanized steel.

The Hose Rose
This handy new device makes your garden hose act like a watering can providing a gentle spray that won't batter seedlings or compact potting soil. The rose is made of brass, just like those on fine English watering cans. A mail-order source is Charley's Greenhouse Supply, 17979 State Rte. 536, Mt. Vernon, WA 98273-3269, phone 800-322-4707, catalog free.

Seed Spoons(tm)
Brian Harron (209 Linda Loop, Kinburn, Ontario, Canada K0A 2H0, web site www.brianseye.com/spoons) is marketing these handy little plastic spoons that allow you to pick up and plant just one seed at a time (or, by selecting a different spoon end size, two or a few seeds at a time). The spoons are bright yellow for maximum visibility. No more wasting seeds and wasting time thinning out extra seedlings! Look for them at local garden centers (retailers: wholesale price lists are available from Brian); if you can't find them locally, call 613-839-3497 (evenings and weekends) or send an e-mail message to seedspoons@brianseye.com

Used Gardening Books for Sale
Natural history bookseller Raymond Sutton, Jr. (P. O. Box 330, Williamsburg, KY 40769, phone 606-549-3464, web site www.suttonbooks.com) recently published Bulletin No. 79, listing hundreds of used gardening books for sale. For a copy of the list, send $2.00. "Any book may be returned for any reason."

March

Edible

• Start seeds of warm season vegetables indoors.

• Plant asparagus as soon as soil can be worked.

• Prune grape vines.

• Prune out weak, diseased or dead canes from raspberry plants.

• Plan your vegetable garden. Avoid planting members of the nightshade family - tomatoes, potatoes, peppers and eggplant in the same place more often than once every few years.

• Sow radish and lettuce seeds.

• Buy a notebook to record all gardening information during the growing season. Record information on plant names, varieties, planting and harvest dates and insect and disease problems.

• Prune fruit trees before bloom.

• Have your soil tested. Soil testing booklet is available from U of I Extension.

• Try 'Purple Head' cauliflower. It is easier to grow than white varieties.

• Plant onion sets.

• Check stored tools for signs of rust.

• Buy vinyl rubber hoses. They are durable and won't crack.

Ornamental

• Be sure to designate a delivery date when ordering mail order plants.

• Prune trees and shrubs while still dormant.

• Transplant trees and shrubs while they are still dormant. Fact sheet available from U of I Extension.

• Prune shrubs that bloom after June 15.

• Apply oil sprays to trees and shrubs to control scale insects before bud break (when green tissue is visible in the leaf bud). Spray only when you know temperatures will stay above freezing for 24 hours after you spray.

• Rake winter debris from the lawn.

• Divide hostas and daylilies before growth starts.

• Choose a lawn care service. Fact sheet available from U of I Extension.

• Sign up for Home Lawn Care Self-Study Course. This three lesson course written by University of Illinois horticulturists covers all the basics of lawn care: seeding, sodding, watering, mowing, fertilization, weeds, grubs and lawn diseases. To enroll in this course call 773-233-0476. You will receive one lesson a week for three weeks. The cost is $10.

• Attend the Chicago Flower & Garden Show at Navy Pier - March 11-19. Check out the show's web site at http://www.chicagoflower.com for more information.

Indoors

• Fertilize houseplants as new growth appears.

• Repot houseplants as needed.

• Most cacti will bloom sooner if rootbound; so plant in a small pot.

April

Edible

• Celebrate Earth Day 2000 on April 22.

• Plant cool season transplants - broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, onions and Brussel sprouts.

• Plant potatoes.

• Direct seed peas, lettuce, spinach and carrots.

• Do not work the soil when it is wet.

• Add organic matter to improve garden soils.

• Strawberries produce more fruit in a limited space than any other berry. Twenty-five plants should produce twenty-five quarts of berries.

• Ice cream scoops are great for digging holes for transplants.

Ornamental

• Apply crabgrass controls. Factsheet available.

• Avoid using zoysia grass for lawn. It stays brown seven months of the year.

• Watch for Eastern tent caterpillars in crabapple and apple trees. Fact sheet available from U of I Extension.

• Plant trees and shrubs. Fact sheet available from U of I Extension.

• Don't apply grub control in spring. If necessary, apply mid-summer.

• Remove last year's foliage from perennial beds.

• Divide mid-summer and fall blooming perennials now.

• Apply first apple scab controls when trees are in full bloom. Fact sheet available from U of I Extension.

• Fertilize trees and shrubs. Fact sheet available from U of I Extension.

• Prune roses to remove dead stems. Leave two to three strong canes. Fact sheet available from U of I Extension.

• Check out University of Illinois Extension's new web site "Our Rose Garden" at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/roses

• Check out University of Illinois Extension's updated Hort Corner web site at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/hort/index.html

• Gradually remove protective covering from roses.

• Plant pansies for early spring color.

• Plant a tree to celebrate Arbor Day - April 28.

• De-thatching, power raking and core cultivation should be done when lawn is actively growing - late April to May.

• Place pansies between tulips and daffodils as they emerge for added color.

• Fertilize spring flowering bulbs when leaves emerge.

• Lift, divide and replant chrysanthemums 12–15 inches apart when new shoots appear.

• Prune spring flowering shrubs after they have flowered.

• Mow lawn frequently so as not to remove more than one third of grass blade at any one mowing.

Indoors

• Place Easter lily in bright, cool area.

• Plant caladiums indoors for transplanting later.

• Increase watering of houseplants as growth occurs.

May

Edible

• Tomatoes started from seed can be planted in the garden when they have 5-7 leaves.

• Make cages for tomato plants. Cages should be 4–5 feet high.

• Deep transplanting is good for tomatoes. Remove all leaves that would be under the soil. New roots will sprout along the stem.

• Protect transplants from cutworms with collars. Cut strips of cardboard 2 inches wide by 8 inches long and staple them into a band and place around plants. Press collar about one inch into the soil.

• Potatoes and green peppers produce better when grown over a white plastic mulch.

• Harvest green onions, lettuce and radishes from early garden.

• Cut or pinch off flowers in new strawberry plantings.

• Continue to harvest mature plantings of asparagus and rhubarb so they will keep growing.

• Cover tender vegetables with floating row covers (Reemay) when frost is predicted. Will provide protection down to 28°F.

• Check to see if bees are visiting blossoms on fruit trees. Numerous bee visits mean a good fruit set.

• Plant several varieties of sweet corn with different maturity dates.

• Harden off vegetable transplants before planting.

• Begin spray schedule to control diseases and insects on fruit trees.

• Plant melons, peppers, eggplant, sweet potatoes and other warm season vegetables.

• Mark the handle of your spade or hoe in inches for a handy measuring device for row width and planting distances. Paint or tape the measurements on the handle. A coat of varnish can make the marks last longer.

Ornamentals

• Plant trees, shrubs and fruit trees.

• Make a tomato cage birdbath. Buy a tomato cage, a large plastic flower pot saucer, morning glory seeds and string. Criss-cross string through the cage. Place saucer on top of cage. Plant morning glory seeds around cage. Fill saucer with water.

• Finish uncovering roses and tender perennials.

• As leaves emerge on roses, spray with appropriate fungicide every 7-10 days to prevent blackspot.

• Prune most spring flowering shrubs like forsythia, viburnum and lilacs after bloom.

• Allow spring bulb foliage to die naturally. Leaves manufacture the food resources that are stored in the bulb for a repeat showing next year.

• Plant multiflora petunias. They withstand storms and wet better than other types of petunias.

• Remove and destroy overwintering bagworms from trees and shrubs.

• Do not refuel a gasoline powered engine when it is hot or running. The exhaust could ignite gasoline. Let engine cool 5 minutes before refueling.

• Sharpen your lawn mower blade monthly since a dull blade can pull grass seedlings from the soil instead of cutting them.

• Plant annuals, perennial flowers and herbs near the end of May.

• Brighten up your front porch or patio with containers. Container gardening fact sheet available from U of I Extension.

• Choose plants that are easy to maintain. Plants that do not need "deadheading"include begonias, impatiens, coleus, alyssum, ageratum, lobelia, vinca and salvia.

• Mulch around newly planted trees and shrubs. This practice reduces weeds, reduces fluctuations in soil temperature, retains moisture, prevents damage from lawn mowers and looks attractive.

• Save money on mulch materials by using one to two inches of wood chips before spreading two inches of decorative shredded bark. Wood chips are less expensive than shredded bark and last longer, too. Keep mulch several inches away from the trunks of trees and shrubs so air can circulate near the trunk discouraging diseases and so that rodents will not feed on the bark.

• Grow statice, globe amaranth and strawflowers for drying. Fact sheet available from U of I Extension.

• When you visit gardens and arboreta, take your camera and note pad with you. Plan now for changes you will make in your landscape.

• Lawns maintained at the correct height resist disease and weed infestation. Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue should be kept between 2 to 3 inches in height. Mow frequently, removing no more than one third of the blade at each cutting.

• To better evaluate your gardening successes, keep weather records along with garden records. The most important items to report are daily minimum and maximum temperatures, precipitation, cloud cover and frost occurrences.

• Don't spray pesticides on a windy day. Not only is pesticide wasted, it may endanger other crops, animals or people.

• Remember, some insecticides cannot be used as preventatives, but are only effective if they come in contact with the insect. Do not spray them until you are sure you have an insect problem. Use all pesticides with caution. Always read and follow the directions on the label and buy only as much as you need.

• Any ants crawling around on garden plants may indicate the presence of aphids. A hard spray of water will remove them from plants.

• Pinch back annuals when 4 to 6 inches high to promote bushy growth. Some that require pinching are zinnias, petunias and salvia.

• Use impatiens in shady areas. Begonias, coleus, ageratum, salvia and vinca prefer light shade (5 to 6 hours of sunlight.)

• Set petunia plants among fading tulips or daffodils to hide the unsightly wilting leaves. After the bulb foliage begins to fade, you can tie the leaves in gentle knots to make them neat, but don't remove them until they have dried completely.

• Make a support rod for your hanging baskets using an old mop or broom handle. Place two sturdy hooks into your porch or patio roof about as far apart as the handle is long. Suspend the rod with two equal lengths of chain. The rod can hold several hanging baskets, depending on size.

• Put your tools away at the end of the day; clean them and hang them up, if possible. Keep the cutting edge sharp for easier use.

• Avoid deep cultivation of evergreens that might wound roots. Evergreens have many roots near the soil surface.

• Regularly water newly planted trees and shrubs during the first year or two after planting to help establish a good root system. They need at least one inch of water each week.

• Prune out winter killed wood on trees and shrubs by cutting back to green wood after new growth begins.

• Identify garden insects before spraying with an insecticide.

• Cut off dead flower heads of tulips and daffodils.

• Grass clippings can be used as a mulch in flower beds and vegetable gardens if allowed to dry well before use. Fresh, damp, grass clippings will mat and may attract pests. Never use clippings from a lawn that has been treated with a herbicide.

• Use perennials in the garden. They last a long time and require fairly low maintenance. They can be divided and provide additional plants for your garden.

May

Indoors

• Water dry houseplants before fertilizing and NEVER fertilize wilted plants. Adding fertilizer to a dry root ball burns the roots, damaging or killing the plant.

• Divide indoor plants when new growth starts in spring. Root cutting during spring and summer when the plant is actively growing.

• Avoid chilling houseplants by watering them with cold tap water. Let water stand until it reaches room temperature.

• Avoid over-potting African violets. They bloom better in small pots.

• Cacti will bloom sooner if they are root bound in a small pot.

Research indicates that 70 percent of New Year's resolutions are centered in the area of health and fitness. During January, fitness centers and gyms were full of enthusiastic people with water bottles and towels vigorously sweating with new found zeal.

However, by the second week of February the level of activity gradually returns to normal. Why? Are we disillusioned by the results? Many people have the mistaken idea that exercise is a fabulous way to lose weight. Most of us are motivated to exercise simply to get rid of accumulated flab. When immediate weight loss is not realized, we stop exercising and return to the old way of life.

Being "overweight" is really a problem of having too much body fat. Extra "weight" that is due to muscle and/or bone mass does not pose a health risk. However excess body fat contributes to a variety of health problems including diabetes and cardiovascular diseases.

Dieters who exercise lose less lean body mass or muscles and regular exercise helps to maintain weight loss.

To successfully manage your weight, healthy eating and a physically active lifestyle must become everyday habits. Yes, being overweight is a risk factor of heart disease and other chronic illnesses, but, all fat people are not at risk. According to researchers at the Cooper Clinic in Dallas, Texas, "overweight and obese individuals who are fit do not have elevated mortality rates."

In a study of 25,000 men, researchers found that approximately 10 percent of normal weight participants were unfit. The researchers concluded that low fitness was a strong predictor of other risk factors including high blood cholesterol, high blood pressure and diabetes. Exercise promotes fitness and movement improves the quality of life in many ways.

Water, Water Everywhere
And all the boards did shrink
Water, Water Everywhere
Nor any drop to drink
From: The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner

Water is an essential nutrient. As Chicagoans, our front door opens onto a great body of water known as Lake Michigan, yet, many of us are suffering from dehydration. Because of Lake Michigan, we have some of the safest drinking water on the planet, so why aren't we drinking enough water? There are many excuses but no genuine reasons.

The adult body is 55–75 percent water and the amount varies from person to person. Water is fat- free and contains no calories. Almost every bodily process needs water to function. Your body needs water in greater supply than any other nutrient. Water regulates your body temperature, it transports oxygen and other nutrients and it provides a cushion for joints and helps to protect organs. Water is the basis for blood, saliva, digestive juices and urine.

"Thrist is not an accurate gauge of fluid needs", according to Bob Murray, Exercise Physiologist and Director of Exercise and Physiology Laboratory in Barrington, Illinois. By the time we feel thirsty, we are already slightly dehydrated. It's like adding oil to the crank case in your car, by the time the light comes on, you are already at risk of burning up the engine, which is very low.

So, when should one drink water - throughout the day? How much water is enough? The amount needed by each person varies. Because your body does not store water, a fresh supply is needed daily. The average adult loses about 80 ounces of water per day. The general rule is to drink 8 to 12 cups of fluid each day to replenish supplies although there are situations in which you need more water. Some examples include:

• During varying levels of physical activity. After an intense workout or while working out in the sun, more water is needed to maintain normal body temperatures.

• During exposure to extremely hot or cold weather.

• During pregnancy and breast-feeding.

• If you eat an extremely high fiber diet, extra water is needed to prevent constipation.

• When you are sick and suffering with a fever, diarrhea and vomiting, more water is needed to replace the loss.

You are not likely to overdose on water as your body has the ability to eliminate the excess through normal kidney function. The risk for most people is in not getting enough water. Don't try to consume large quantities of water at once. Drink water with meals and snacks and sip water throughout the day.

A gulp of water is about an ounce. When drinking at a water fountain, take at least eight gulps (count out eight gulps) and you will have consumed about a cup of water. Don't just wet your lips and throat....drink heartily.

Keep a bottle of water in the car, in your purse or backpack and sip often. You will give a better performance, feel stronger and more energized if you are fully hydrated. Drink non-caffeinated beverages before, during and after any form of exercise. Take water breaks instead of coffee breaks.

If you prefer bottled water to tap water - fine. If the tap water in your community is questionable, bottled water is a good alternative. Remember, all bottled water is not the same. Read the label to see what you are drinking. Some bottle water contains added sugar and/or sodium. As Americans we often take fresh water for granted, but in many parts of the world it is a luxury. Drink more water and notice the improvement.

Asparagus is spring's most luxurious vegetable. It was once cultivated for medicinal purposes as a natural remedy for blood cleansing and diuretic properties. During the Renaissance, asparagus was also promoted as an aphrodisiac and banned from the tables of most nunneries.

Botanically, asparagus is a member of the lily family, closely related to onions and leeks, though it bears no resemblance to them in appearance or flavor. It is a finicky plant, harvested by hand and requiring much attention during the brief growing season. Left to mature it will sprout into beautiful feathery ferns that are often used in floral arrangements.

While Europeans prize white asparagus, Americans tend to prefer the green or violet-green varieties. When buying asparagus look for compact tips and smooth green stems that are uniform in color down the length of the stem. Check the cut stem end for drying and avoid withered spears.

Pencil thin or thick stems can be equally delicious. Contrary to popular belief, thinner stems are not an indication of tenderness. Thick stems are already thick when they poke their heads out of the soil and thin stems do not get thicker with age. Tenderness is related to maturity and freshness.

Cook asparagus as soon as possible to ensure peak flavor. Spears start to lose flavor and moisture as soon as they are harvested. For this reason, imported asparagus, while still good, tends to lack flavor making home grown Michigan and Illinois spring crops most desirable. Asparagus comes in a variety of colors including white, violet-green, pink and purple.

If you must store asparagus, treat it as you would cut flowers. Trim the stems and stand them in a glass with one to two inches of water. Cover with a plastic bag and refrigerate until ready to use.

Asparagus can be eaten raw, steamed, boiled, grilled, roasted or incorporated into casseroles and salads. Tall, narrow asparagus kettles are designed to cook it upright, immersing the stems while the tender heads steam.

To prepare, wash under cool running water and trim an inch from the stem end. Use a vegetable peeler to peel an inch or two if desired. The peelings can be added to the cooking water which can be refrigerated and reused. The water becomes quite flavorful and is excellent in stock and soup. The flavor of asparagus marries well with many ingredients, and it is equally delicious dressed simply with olive oil and lemon juice.

Asparagus is low in calories and provides substantial amounts of two antioxidants - Vitamins A and C. It truly shines as a source of folate and has a goodly amount of fiber. A half-cup serving of cooked asparagus spears will provide approximately 90 calories, 2.3 grams protein, 4 grams carbohydrates, 1.5 grams fiber, 485 IU Vitamin A, 10 mg. Vitamin C, 131 mcg folate and 144 mg. potassium.

Planning a garden? How about bringing something new to the table? Consider a broccoli-crossbred vegetable like broccolini, broccoli raab or purple broccoli. All are hardy plants that can be grown from seed or transplants. Like broccoli, they are cool weather vegetables and should be planted 4 to 6 weeks before the frost date.

Broccolini - Broccolini, also known as baby broccoli, is a cross between conventional broccoli and Chinese kale (Gai Lan). It is sometimes sold on the market as "aspiration," although it is not related to asparagus. The flavor of broccolini is similar to broccoli, but sweeter. You may have seen it at the grocery store sold in bunches resembling skinny broccoli with very small heads. It is delicious and if you haven't tried it, you are in for a treat.

Broccoli raab - Although it has broccoli's name, broccoli raab is not related to broccoli. It is actually a descendant from a wild herb that grows in the Mediterranean. It is, however, closely related to turnips which is probably why the leaves look like turnip greens. Lots of broccoli-like buds appear here and there but a head never forms.

The flavor of raab is similar to broccoli but much more pungent. The flavor is often described as pleasantly bitter. Broccoli raab cooks quickly - in about 2 to 5 minutes. If overcooked, it turns to mush, so watch it closely. Broccoli raab is also known as rapini and broccoli rabe.

Broccoflower - This is obviously a cross between cauliflower and broccoli and actually looks like green cauliflower. It is a very pretty vegetable that tastes more like cauliflower than broccoli.

Purple broccoli - This cousin looks like small heads of purple cauliflower. It is in fact often mistaken for purple cauliflower, which is much larger and very different in taste. Although it does not look like broccoli, it does taste like it.

Heart Patients Beware
People who usually don't exercise and have risk factors for heart disease are susceptible to heart attacks if they suddenly start to vigorously exercise. Researchers from the Hartford Hospital in Connecticut examined 1,048 heart attack patients and determined whether or not they had a heart attack within an hour of vigorous exercise.

The researchers found that the risk of having a heart attack was about 10 times greater during strenuous exercise. Patients who suffered exercise related attacks were more likely to be male, overweight, smokers and have high blood pressure and high cholesterol levels.

Jogging, running or heavy lifting (shoveling snow) were the most common types of activities reported by patients who had exercise related heart attacks. Habitually inactive adults with elevated cardiac risk should avoid unaccustomed heavy exertion, researchers conclude. Start a new exercise program slowly and under your doctor's recommendations. (The Journal of the American Medical Association; Vol. 282, 11/10/99, pp.1731-1736)

Y Go 2 Waste
O.K., many of us stocked up on food and other essentials in anticipation of Y2K related problems. Well, it didn't happen. Fortunately most of the nation experienced a smooth transition, thanks to the preparation and hard work of Y2K managers nationwide. Now some people are wondering what to do with all that extra food. Here are some ideas:

• Donate it to a local hunger relief organization. Many local agencies are eager to accept non-perishable food and basic household items such as personal care items, diapers and even batteries. Contact the Chicago Anti-Hunger Federation at 773-252-3663 for drop-off location.

• Donate it to a local church or other religious group of choice.

• Store it for later use. In general, most canned foods have a long "health life" and when properly stored are safe to eat for several years.

• Store canned foods in a cool, dry place. That is away from a heat source such as a radiator, heat vent or range. Most canned goods do not have a use by date printed on the label. For undated products use these guidelines.

• Low-acid canned goods can be stored for two to five years (canned meat, poultry, stews, soups except tomato soup, pasta products, potatoes, corn, carrots, spinach, beans, beets, peas and pumpkin, to name a few).

• High-acid canned goods can be safely stored for twelve to eighteen months under proper conditions. These items include tomatoes and tomato products, fruits, sauerkraut and foods in vinegar-based sauces or dressings. Use an indelible (waterproof) marker to date the cans. Write the date of purchase and the anticipated date of expiration.

• Home canned products should be used within a year of processing.

Check for signs of spoilage on all canned products and dispose of anything that looks or smells suspicious. Examine the cans carefully. Discard any leaking, badly dented or bulging cans without opening. Also any cracked jars, jars with loose or bulging lids and any product with an unnatural color, odor or appearance.

...Vitamin K is important for strong healthy bones too? Most people know that calcium and Vitamin D are crucial for strong bones, but it's also important to get enough Vitamin K. Women should shoot for 65 mcg a day, while men need 80 mcg. Green leafy (spinach, mustard, kale, romaine lettuce and chard) vegetables are the best source of Vitamin K.

...The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has announced a popular pesticide called Dursban may cause blurred vision, muscle weakness, headache, memory loss, depression and irritability when people are exposed to it in large amounts? More than 20 million pounds of Dursban are used each year in the U. S. to kill insects, termites and cockroaches in homes, schools, and hospitals. It is also used in pet collars. About 80 out of 325 reported illnesses from Dursban poisoning were serious enough to require hospitalization, EPA noted. EPA will not make a final determination on restrictions of the use of the pesticide until next summer. Source: Nutrition Week, Community Nutrition Institute Vol. XXIX No. 43 and 11/12/99.

...houseplants can reduce indoor pollutants? Some houseplants, particularly the spider plant, can help clean up indoor air, but only up to a point. Evidence shows that spider plants slightly reduce indoor air pollution, but they don't clear the air of harmful contaminants such as cigarette smoke and carbon monoxide. Keep in mind, too, that if you overwater your plants, you are promoting the growth of fungi and allergens and in doing so, contributing to the problem of indoor air pollution.

...the Food and Drug Administration has approved a health claim for soy products? As of October 26, 1999 the FDA authorized the use of claims about the role of soy products in reducing the risk of coronary heart disease. According to research, foods containing soy protein included in a diet low in saturated fat and cholesterol may reduce the risk of heart disease by lowering blood cholesterol levels. One would need to eat 25 grams of soy protein per day to show a significant cholesterol lowering effect. Food labels that may be eligible to print the health claim include soy beverages, tofu, tempeh, soy-based meat alternatives and possibly some baked goods. Food carrying the claim must also be low in fat, saturated fat and cholesterol.