University of Illinois Extension Cook County
The Green Line
http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/greenline/
For more information, please contact:
Cook County Unit
Headquarters Office
4801 Southwick Drive
Suite 100
Matteson, IL 60443
Phone: 708-481-0111 / Fax: 708-481-4151
E-mail: cook_hdq@extension.uiuc.edu
Finding the Best Site for a Garden Is More Than a Random Process
If home is where you hang your hat, is wherever you sink your shovel a garden? Not necessarily. Choosing the right site for a garden could mean the difference between a great harvest or a poor one.
If you take the time to look at the land you're selecting for your garden, you'll save yourself from many problems after the crops are planted.
Follow these simple steps to get the best production and the fewest number of problems from a home garden site.
Close to the House. Put the garden as near to the house as you can. If it is far away, you are not going to be as diligent in maintaining or even picking the crops at the right time. It's best if you can see the garden easily from the house.
Look for the High Ground. Locate the highest point on your property and site the garden on the slope below the hill so that the tops of plants or trees are lower than the crest of the hill. This prevents wind injury and keeps crops from drying out.
Air Drainage. Air flows just like water, from a high point to a low point. Adequate airflow drains cool air away from the crops and breezes will dry dew off of plants relatively quickly, which helps prevent plant diseases.
Water Drainage. Gardeners can easily check drainage rates by digging a small hole and pouring a bucket of water into it. If the water has not percolated into the soil in 10 to 15 minutes, drainage is poor. If a small section of the garden has poor drainage, mark off that space for building a natural pond or for crops in the mint or watercress families, which like marshy areas.
Perennials Need Northern Exposure. If you are planting perennial crops, sitting them to the north ensures fewer episodes of freezing and thawing while also delaying growth during the spring frost period. If the garden is in an area that gets hot and cold during the winter, the soil will heave. This will cause roots to rip and the plants to dry out.
Annuals Need Southern Exposure. Gardens facing south will receive sun earlier and warm more rapidly. This is perfect for vegetables that require early planting or annual flowers such as impatiens and pansies.
Protection from Wind. Many plants, particularly perennials, are sensitive to wind. Installing a simple or decorative snow fence is recommended. The slats in the fence will slow air flow. The fence also allows snow to drift higher onto the garden, which acts as a highly effective insulator.
Check Tree Species. Black walnut or butternut trees contain a chemical compound called juglone, which may cause nearby plants to wilt. Garden plants should not be placed within these trees' canopies or root zones.
Check for pH and Fertility. Testing should be done if the land selected for the garden obviously has not been cultivated. Soil test booklets are available from the University of Illinois Extension office by calling 773-233-0476. When you submit your test, tell the lab what types of crops you are planting. If they know the crops to be planted, they can give a very specific recommendation for fertilization.
Look for Persistent or Perennial Weeds. Before cultivating the garden look for persistent weeds such as purslane, quackgrass, thistles or galinsoga. You still can plant there, but you have to address the major weed problems before planting. Frequent shallow cultivation, covering with black plastic film or use of an appropriate herbicide will help keep weeds manageable.
Is There an Adjacent Lawn? If there is turfgrass near the site, make sure weed-and-feed products have not been applied recently. Any product containing the herbicide dicamba can leach through the soil to kill plant roots, particularly those of perennial flowers, trees and shrubs.
Keep Land Idle. A small amount of land should be left unplanted to help with crop rotation. All crops will attract insects, weeds and diseases that specifically affect them. By rotating crops into new soil areas, you can minimize these problems.
Source: Penn State, Agricultural Information Services
Build a Raised Bed
Looking for a better way to grow vegetables this year? Consider installing a raised bed. The advantages far outweigh the initial investment of time and money.
Most gardeners find that raised beds are easier to maintain and promote better plant growth. Walking in a garden causes soil compaction, which can cause problems with drainage and oxygen availability to the roots. It's also more difficult to weed when soil is compacted. With a raised bed, you can plant, weed and harvest without ever walking on the soil.
Raised beds can be filled with high-quality soil and it's easy to add compost or other organic matter. Long-rooted plants, such as carrots, do especially well in this environment, because there are no stones to hinder their development.
Plants in raised beds get more sun and air circulation and they can make better use of water. You often can plant earlier and harvest later, because raised beds warm up early in the spring and stay warm later in the fall.
Raised beds also make ideal places to grow plants that can be invasive in a regular garden – such as mints and horseradish. But ease and convenience is the benefit many gardeners appreciate the most. If you get a bad back and sore knees every year from gardening, a raised bed may put an end to those aches and pains.
Raised vegetable beds are excellent for gardeners who have trouble with their backs and older people who don't have limited flexibility. They are also excellent for people in wheelchairs or with other disabilities and those who don't want to spend the summer on their knees in the garden.
To install a raised bed, first choose a sunny location and decide on the size and shape you want. Some gardeners till the soil before building raised beds, to provide additional room for root development.
Construct the frame with a nontoxic building material, such as stone, cinder blocks, bricks, untreated wood or fiberglass. Some garden catalogs and centers now offer raised bed frames that snap together and can easily be taken apart.
Make sure the frame is between 12 and 16 inches high and is sturdy enough to hold together when filled with soil. If you use boards, they must be secured at the corners with metal braces or screws, or nailed to a reinforcing block of wood inside the corners – if you nail into the ends of boards, they will split.
Fill the frame with a good-quality lightweight soil mix and add a generous amount of compost. Avoid using soil straight from the garden. It usually is too heavy and doesn't allow for proper drainage.
A well-constructed raised bed should last for years and soil fertility can be maintained by adding organic matter. Raised beds have been used for centuries and with good reason – they're better for many plants and they're easier on gardeners.
Source: Penn State, Agricultural Information Services
It Takes a Kernel of Skill to Grow Great Sweet Corn
Driving around back roads to find the perfect ear of sweet corn practically qualifies as a state sport, but a vegetable expert says backyard gardeners also can grow sweet and tasty ears without much trouble.
Many sweet corn varieties are resistant to most major corn diseases. Also, in a backyard garden you can walk through the corn and pick off pests. Most corn pests are more interested in acres of corn than they are a garden plot.
Sweet corn is a popular food item primarily in the United States. Most European, African and Asian countries grow field corn to feed livestock and poultry or to make cornmeal, which is used for polenta, tortillas, mealy meal, breads and other products.
Sweet corn was developed from maize, which is native to the Americas and has been cultivated in Central America since 3500 B.C. Seed companies have sold sweet corn varieties since the early 1800s, but they really became popular as garden crops in the 1960s, with the development of a very popular sweet variety called Silver Queen.
All sweet corn varieties are grown from seed and can be planted in most of Illinois from about May 15 to July 1, depending upon whether varieties are early-season or late-season. To enjoy sweet corn throughout the growing season, gardeners should make multiple plantings of early, main season and late-maturing varieties.
Dedicating at least a 5 foot by 5 foot square of soil for corn, a plot capable of producing about 16 corn plants or around 30 edible ears is recommended. A square plot is ideal because corn is pollinated by the wind and plants are more likely to receive adequate wind flow in a square than in a long row.
Seeds should be planted one inch deep about every 4 inches in rows 16 inches apart. As the plants appear, pull out the less vigorous plants. Ideally, you should have about 16 inches of space between each remaining plant, which allows for good pollination and space to grow.
Corn attracts a wide variety of pests, including corn borers, corn earworms, armyworms, Japanese beetles and corn rootworms. Home gardeners can use Sevin, an all-purpose garden insecticide or cover the crop with fine mesh row covers. The row covers will have to be removed when corn tassels appear so the plants can pollinate. In a small plot, most people can control pests by walking through and removing insects – unless your plot is next to a farmer's giant cornfield.
Growing your own corn is the best way to ensure fresh, sweet-tasting ears. When sweet corn is picked, it immediately starts to convert its sugar content to starch and loses aroma and vitamins. Corn tastes best when you start the water boiling on the stove and then go out and pick a few ears. But, if you put the ears in a plastic bag and refrigerate immediately after picking, most varieties will retain good quality for about 5 days.
Source: Penn State University
Pruning Ornamentals Keeps Your Garden on the Cutting Edge
Every year, landscape gardeners should step back, look at their plantings and formulate a pruning plan that will keep ornamentals looking their best.
Pruning should start as soon as you have the plants in the ground. You can shorten long stems and encourage branching to increase the density and volume of new plants.
Most landscape plants should be lightly pruned every few years. If you prune hard every year to keep a plant to a certain size in your landscape, it's better to replace that plant with one that has growth characteristics better suited to the site.
All gardeners should understand the difference between pruning and shearing.
Pruning. Pruning means individually selecting and cutting specific branches or twigs. Larger pieces are removed at specific locations on the plant.
Shearing. Shearing removes one to two inches of growth from the entire plant by indiscriminately clipping all twig ends.
Before pruning, consider the properties of the plant. Look at its natural form, growth habits, growth rate, height, spread and flowering time.
Gardeners should prune if:
There are any dead, diseased, damaged or insect-injured parts.
There is a need to make the plant less dense or open the center for light and air flow.
The plant needs rejuvenation.
A special shape is desired, as with hedges or topiaries.
Dead flower clusters and seed pods must be removed.
Savvy gardeners should use one of three pruning methods.
Rejuvenation. This is the most severe pruning method. Used on older plants that have grown too large or woody. This approach removes the oldest branches at or near ground level, leaving only young stems. Pruning old wood on shrubs will stimulate the growth of new wood.
If there aren't many young stems, remove about one-third of the older wood each season over three years. New growth will have to be pruned to encourage some branching and to retain the quality and density of the plant.
Thinning. These pruning cuts are done by removing entire twigs or branches where they attach to the main stem. It is the least conspicuous pruning plan. By cutting the inward-growing twigs, the remaining growth will fill in the outside of the plant. This method is best used on very dense plants.
Heading Back. This method reduces the height or size of the plant. Branches or twigs are cut back to a bud or emerging side branch. The shape of the plant is controlled by the location of the bud at the end of the cut. An inward-pointing bud will make the plant denser; an outward-pointing bud will do the opposite.
Remember that heading back stimulates the development of smaller shoots and dense growth, particularly if every branch is headed back. Heading back just 30 percent of a plant's longest branches in a growing season is recommended.
Shrubs that flower in the spring should be pruned after they bloom. Plants that flower in mid-and late summer should be pruned in the spring before growth starts. Any fall pruning should be done after the plant is dormant, but keep pruning at this time of year to a minimum.
Source: Penn State Agricultural Information Services
Lawn Care Calendar
April
Clean up debris from winter
Cultivation (aerification, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing
Vertical mowing or dethatching (lawn should be actively growing)
Overseeding, establishment (late in month; late summer is better)
Pre-emergence annual weed (i.e. crabgrass) control (or early May)
May
Cultivation (aerification, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing
Pre-emergence annual weed (i.e. crabgrass) control (or late April)
Fertilization (1 pound of nitrogen/1,000 square feet)
Postemergence broadleaf weed (i.e. dandelions) control to actively growing weeds
Overseeding, establishment (early in month; late summer is better
June
Postemergence broadleaf weed control (avoid hot weather)
Gardening Faire 2001 will be held on April 28, 2001 from 9 am to 3 pm at the Chicago High School for Agricultural Sciences (CHSAS) at 3857 West 111th Street in Chicago. The University of Illinois Extension Chicago Master Gardener Program and CHSAS are sponsoring the Faire. Workshops will feature topics such as: lawn care; container gardening; growing herbs; shade gardening; growing roses and many more. Workshops are designed to interest dedicated gardeners as well as those who see basic skills. Registration is $12 before April 7; $15 after that date. A bag lunch may be ordered at a cost of $5.00. Call 773-233-0476 to obtain a registration form.
Protecting Your Garden from Rabbits
Rabbits are fond of many of our flower and vegetable plants, particularly in the spring before other plants start to grow.
Beans, peas, lettuce, broccoli, carrot and beet tops as well as flowers such as tulips and marigolds are readily fed upon by rabbits. They also feed on bluegrass, clover, dandelions and plantain in our lawns where they usually cause no damage.
Protecting your garden from rabbits may be necessary in order to enjoy it.
There are a variety of methods available to keep rabbits out of the garden. Dried blood meal is an effective rabbit repellent if sprinkled around the edge of the garden.
Unfortunately, it will wash away after several days and must be re-applied. Continual use of this natural fertilizer throughout the summer is likely to cause the nutrients to become unbalanced in your garden resulting in reduced flowering and harvests.
Moth balls or crystals are a popular method, but are usually not effective. In addition, this chemical is rather toxic and could be dangerous if swallowed.
Wood ashes around the garden have been successful, but tend to increase the alkalinity of the soil.
Probably the best protection from rabbits is to fence in the garden. Use three foot high poultry netting (chicken wire) with the bottom six inches bent outward at a right angle.
Bury this part of the fence with about a half inch of soil. When the rabbit tries to burrow under your fence, he will be standing on what he's trying to dig through. The resulting 2 1/2 foot fence is higher than a rabbit can jump.
To reduce the area that needs to be fenced, plant your potatoes, tomatoes and squash outside of the fence, since rabbits will rarely eat these vegetables. Onions are usually safe outside of the fence also, but may occasionally be eaten.
Flowers and other non-edible plants can be protected with a Thiram spray. This chemical repellent is available in most garden centers and Rabbit and Deer Repellent. Remember that new parts of the plants that have been produced since the plant was sprayed will not be protected and may be eaten.
Lawn Mower Preparation
It's been sitting in the back of the garage all winter collecting dust and moisture. Maybe even under a pile of rags. There's probably some rust on the metal parts and caked debris underneath. It's the mower.
Unfortunately, most lawn mowers aren't given the adequate attention they need in spring.
Most homeowners simply add gas, pull the starter and resume regular mowing practices. Little thought is given to the actual mower itself.
Mowers are investments with prices ranging from a couple hundred dollars to several thousand. They demand as much attention as you would give an automobile to keep them running properly. One of the first practices in the spring is to disconnect the spark plug and examine the contacts. They should be smooth and shiny. Rusty connections can prevent starting or resulting in misfiring.
Take some emery cloth and lightly go over the spark plug to remove some rust. Take care not to rub too hard; it is easy to damage the contact point. If rust is severe, consider replacing the spark plug.
While the spark plug is disconnected, turn the mower carriage over and remove the blade.
Clean the under carriage thoroughly. If rust is starting, remove with a stiff steel brush and steel wool. Repaint the underside with a rust-resistant paint and allow to dry thoroughly.
Examine the mower blade. The cutting edge should be sharp enough to cut a piece of paper cleanly. If not, sharpen the blades correctly. Most mower service dealers charge less than $10 to sharpen blades. Once sharp, reattach the blade.
Drain the engine oil if appropriate. Discard the oil according to local regulations and refill the engine with the proper type and grade. Engine oil should be checked at least twice yearly.
Gasoline tanks should have been empty for winter storage. If not, drain the gasoline and discard. Gasoline can separate and become gummy during the winter. Replace with fresh gasoline.
Check that the wheels are secured tightly to the frame. Make sure all wheels are locked into place at the correct height. An ideal mowing height is 2 inches.
Tighten all nuts and bolts that might have loosened over the winter. Check handle attachments carefully.
Give the machine a thorough cleaning, removing accumulated grit, grime, leaves and grass clippings.
Examine collection bags. Repair or replace damaged ones. It doesn't hurt to hose them down with some soapy water.
Finally, reconnect the spark plug and follow proper mowing procedures for the spring, summer and fall.
Control Scale Insects on Trees
Scale insects on shade and fruit trees and shrubs can usually be controlled in late winter with a dormant oil spray.
Dormant oil is a lightweight petroleum oil usually sold as dormant oil, superior oil or Volck oil spray. It is applied to deciduous woody plants while they are dormant to kill exposed overwintering insects. Cottony maple, lecanium, euonymus and San Jose scales, as well as European red mite are the most common pests controlled because they are difficult to control at other times of the year.
Scales are protected from insecticides for most of the year by either a hardened body wall or a secreted waxy covering. Outside of dormant oil treatments, scale insects are only susceptible to pesticides as crawlers shortly after egg hatch.
The crawler stage lasts only for a few days before the insect settles down into a leaf or branch to feed. It then molts to the next nymphal stage and develops its protective covering.
Mites are difficult to control during the summer because they reproduce quickly and are not controlled by most insecticides. Even the use of miticides may kill mite predators that were keeping the harmful mites in check.
When dormant oil is applied, it covers the overwintering mite eggs, the overwintering scale insects and any exposed insect eggs. This coating of oil shuts off these animals' air supply and suffocates them.
This pesticide is used while the plant is dormant because the oil can also be toxic to the plant. Applications before leaves start to emerge reduces this problem.
For the same reason, dormant oils should be applied only if the temperatures for the 24 hours after treatment stay above 40 degrees F, so that the oil quickly evaporates off the bark.
Evergreens and hard maples, such as sugar maple and Norway maple, should not be sprayed with a dormant oil spray, due to possibilities of damage to these plants. However, it is possible to spray euonymus vines (Big Leaf Wintercreeper) and lilacs to control scales on them.
Don't worry if the leaves fall off the plants on the euonymus. They would have dropped when new growth starts in a few weeks.
Hort Tips
March - Edible
Start cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts indoors for transplants. Factsheet available.
Start seeds for eggplant, tomato and peppers late in the month.
Try heirloom varieties of vegetables. Factsheet available.
Try oriental vegetables. Factsheet available.
March - Ornamental
Prune shade trees. Avoid "bleeders" such as maple, birch and elm. Prune oaks in the fall to avoid oak wilt disease. Factsheet available.
Try perennials in shady areas. Factsheet available.
Prune summer flowering shrubs like snowball hydrangea and pink spirea.
Prune grapes, raspberries, blueberries and fruit trees early in month when temperatures are above freezing.
Remove mulch from roses and perennial flowers if they begin to sprout; keep mulch near in case of cold snap.
Swarming insects? Termites or ants? Factsheet available.
Divide summer and fall blooming perennials in spring. Factsheet available.
Control apple scab. Factsheet available.
Control iris borer by cleaning up and destroying old foliage before new growth appears.
Choose a lawn care service. Factsheet available.
Cut ornamental grasses back to the ground.
Prune summer blooming clematis just before new growth begins. Factsheet available.
Prune Taxus (yews) in late March or early April. Cut back to green shoots.
Spray fruit trees before buds open with a dormant oil if scale or insects were a problem. Temperatures must be above 32°F with no chance of freezing within 24 hours after spraying.
March - Interior
Repot root-bound houseplants into pot one size larger. Factsheet available.
Plant strawberries. Plant so soil level is just above where roots begin. Twenty-five plants will produce twenty-five quarts of strawberries.
Start cucumber, summer squash and watermelon seeds indoors.
Keep rabbits out of the vegetable garden. Factsheet available.
Have soil tested. Soil testing booklet available. Call 773-233-0476
Plant "straw potatoes." Factsheet available.
April - Ornamental
Try disease-resistant crabapples. For a list of disease-resistant varieties call 773-233-0476.
Protect peonies from botrytis blight; apply Bordeaux mixture spray to buds and when first shoots appear.
Prune off webs of Eastern tent caterpillars. Factsheet available.
Rake winter debris from the lawn.
Initiate rose disease prevention as soon as growth begins. Factsheet available.
Apply pre-emergent crabgrass control in late April or early May. Factsheet available.
Plant late flowering magnolias for reliable blooming. Factsheet available.
Mow groundcovers to remove winter burned foliage. Fertilize and water after mowing to encourage rapid regrowth.
To re-use clay pots from year to year, scrub off any dirt and soak them for 30 minutes in a 10 percent bleach solution. Use nine parts room temperature water to one part liquid chlorine bleach.
Sign up for Home Lawn Care Course. You will receive three lessons, one a week. The course, written by University of Illinois horticulturists, covers all the basics of lawn care: seeding, sodding, watering, mowing, fertilization, weeds, grubs and lawn diseases. Send $10 to Lawn Care Course, University of Illinois Extension, 3807 West 111th Street, Chicago, IL 60655. For questions about this course call 773-233-0476.
April - Interior
Plant Easter lilies outdoors after they have finished blooming. Factsheet available.
Start caladiums and tuberous begonias indoors. Factsheet available.
May - Edible
Potatoes and green peppers produce better when grown over a white plastic mulch.
Harvest green onions, lettuce and radishes from early garden.
Plant melons, peppers, eggplant, sweet potatoes and other warm season vegetables. Factsheets available.
Check to see if bees are visiting blossoms on fruit trees. Numerous bee visits mean a good fruit set.
Soak roots of fruit trees and small fruits before planting.
Tomatoes started from seed can be planted in the garden when they have 5-7 leaves.
Use heavy duty mesh for reinforcing concrete for tomato cages. It will last forever and not rust. Factsheet available.
Deep transplanting is good for tomatoes. Remove all leaves that would be under the soil. New roots will sprout along the stem.
Use a garden hose to outline a new garden bed.
Cut or pinch off flowers in new strawberry plantings. Factsheet available.
Protect transplants from cutworms with collars. Cut strips of cardboard 2" wide by 8" long and staple them into a band and place around plants. Press collar about one inch into the soil.
Harden off vegetable transplants before planting. Put outdoors for two hours first day and one hour or so each day for a week.
Plant several varieties of sweet corn with different maturity dates.
Begin spray schedule to control diseases and insects on fruit trees.
Continue to harvest mature plantings of asparagus and rhubarb so they will keep growing. Factsheet available.
Water transplanted tomatoes using a 2 liter plastic bottle with the bottom cut off. Drill a hole in the cap. Stick the cap end 6-8 inches into the soil and fill bottle with water. Place bottle about 12" from transplant.
Mark the handle of your spade or hoe in inches for a handy measuring device for row width and planting distances. Paint or tape the measurements on the handle. A coat of varnish can make the marks last longer.
Cover tender vegetables with floating row covers (Reemay) or old blankets or sheets when frost is predicted. Will provide protection down to 28 degrees F.
Continue to harvest mature plantings of asparagus and rhubarb so they will keep growing.
Plant muskmelon and watermelon at end of month.
May - Ornamentals
Avoid floppy peonies by planting the smaller flower Japanese singles.
Plant trees, shrubs and fruit trees.
Plant multiflora petunias. They withstand storms and heat better than other types of petunias.
Plant annuals, perennial flowers and herbs near the end of May.
Mulch around newly planted trees and shrubs. This practice reduces weeds, reduces fluctuations in soil temperature, retains moisture, prevents damage from lawn mowers and looks attractive. Factsheet available.
Make a tomato cage birdbath. Buy a tomato cage, a large plastic flower pot saucer, morning glory seeds and string. Criss-cross string through the cage. Place saucer on top of cage. Plant morning glory seeds around cage. Fill saucer with water.
Choose plants that are easy to maintain. Plants that do not need "deadheading" include begonias, impatiens, coleus, alyssum, ageratum, lobelia, vinca and salvia.
Prune most spring flowering shrubs like forsythia, viburnum and lilacs after bloom.
Plant gladiolus corms early this month. Plant corms every 7-10 days for blooms all summer.
Finish uncovering roses and tender perennials.
Do not refuel a gasoline powered engine when it is hot or running. The exhaust could ignite gasoline. Let engine cool 5 minutes before refueling.
Allow spring bulb foliage to die naturally. Leaves manufacture the food resources which are stored in the bulb for a repeat showing next year.
Grow statice, globe amaranth and strawflowers for drying. Factsheet available.
As leaves emerge on roses spray with appropriate fungicide every 7-20 days to prevent blackspot.
Pinch back annuals when 4 to 6 inches high to promote bushy growth. Some that require pinching are zinnias, petunias and salvia.
Avoid deep cultivation of evergreens that might wound roots. Evergreens have many roots near the soil surface.
Lawns maintained at the correct height resist disease and weed infestation. Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue should be kept between 2 to 3 inches in height. Mow frequently, removing no more than one third of the blade at each cutting.
Use impatiens in shady areas. Begonias, coleus, ageratum, salvia and vinca prefer light shade (5 to 6 hours of sunlight).
Don't spray pesticides on a windy day. Not only is pesticide wasted, it may endanger other crops, animals or people.
Put your tools away at the end of the day; clean them and hang them up, if possible. Keep the cutting edge sharp for easier use.
Raised beds should be no wider than four feet so plants can be reached from both sides.
Regularly water newly planted trees and shrubs during the first year or two after planting to help establish a good root system. They need at least one inch of water each week.
Make a support rod for your hanging baskets using an old mop or broom handle. Place two sturdy hooks into your porch or patio roof about as far apart as the handle is long. Suspend the rod with two equal lengths of chain. The rod can hold several hanging baskets, depending on size.
Break up the overgrown roots of container grown plants with a knife or trowel.
Grass clippings can be used as a mulch in flower beds and vegetable gardens if allowed to dry well before use. Fresh, damp, grass clippings will mat and may attract pests. Never use clippings from a lawn that has been treated with a herbicide.
Cut off dead flower heads of tulips and daffodils.
Identify garden insects before spraying with an insecticide.
May - Indoors
Cacti will bloom sooner if they are root bound in a small pot.
Avoid chilling houseplants by watering them with cold tap water. Let water stand until it reaches room temperature.
Water dry houseplants before fertilizing and never fertilize wilted plants. Adding fertilizer to a dry root ball burns the roots, damaging or killing the plant.
Avoid over potting African violets. They bloom better in small pots.
June - Edible
In late June stop harvesting asparagus and fertilize.
Harvest peas when pods are plump. After harvesting replant the area.
Keep cucumbers consistently moist to keep them from becoming bitter.
Do not walk through a garden after watering or rain. This can spread disease.
Do not worry about June fruit drop on fruit trees. It is a natural occurrence.
Make a homemade grow bag. Fill a large, heavy-duty, plastic trash bag with a soil mix (Pro-mix) and plant a tomato.
Plant green soybeans. They have a buttery, crunchy flavor. Are a snack food in Japan.
Factsheet and seed source available.
Stake tomato plants with 4'-5' stakes.
Plant cucumber varieties 'Spacemaster' and 'Salad Bush' for small gardens or containers.
Plant beans, cucumbers, squash, sweet corn and late tomatoes.
Side-dress eggplants, tomatoes and peppers with fertilizer when they set their first fruit.
Do not slice a tomato until you are ready to eat it. According to USDA research a tomato loses its aroma and flavor just three minutes after slicing.
Mulch tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. Mulches help keep down weeds and conserve moisture. Different colored mulch materials reflect different wave lengths of light and have produced noticeable results. Tomato harvests increased significantly in both size and quality when plants were grown over red plastic. Gardeners Supply 128 Intervale Road, Burlington, VT 05401, offers red plastic mulch for tomatoes.
Catch earwigs and sowbugs by trapping them in moistened, rolled up newspapers. The earwigs and sowbugs will hide in the paper during the day. Dispose of the newspapers.
Make a vegetable cleaning box. Replace the bottom of a wooden box with chicken wire. Place just picked vegetables in box and rinse off.
Harvest strawberries.
Water the garden with the equivalent of one inch of water per week.
To protect bees that pollinate many of our crop plants, spray pesticides in the evening after bees have returned to their hives.
Make a sunflower room for the kids. Draw a square in the soil and plant sunflowers around the square. Leave an open space for kids to go in their outdoor room.
Prune and tie "staked" tomatoes plants - factsheet available.
Use about 3-4 inches layer of newspaper for a mulch around vegetables. Dip newspaper in a bucket of water before placing on ground so it will not blow around.
Plant pumpkins in early June.
Carve your child's name in the skin of a young pumpkin. Name will expand as pumpkin grows.
Check cucumbers for cucumber beetles. Beetles can cause a bacterial wilt disease. Cover with a floating row cover (Reemay) until they flower.
Grow sweet potatoes. Use the short season variety 'Georgia Jet.'
June - Ornamentals
Pinch back annuals at 4" - 6" high. Helps to promote bushy growth.
For large rose blooms disbud the side shoots from grandifloras and hybrid teas.
When you buy container grown nursery stock, check the root ball and make sure it is not bound too tightly. A mass of circling roots will stay that way even after it is in the ground.
Bug zappers kill more beneficial insects than mosquitoes. They also attract insects.
Do not use peat moss as a mulch. When it dries, it becomes impermeable to rain. It's best to mix it with soil.
Climbing roses don't really climb, they have long canes that require support. You'll need to loosely tie the canes to trellises with broad strips of material. Do not use wire, it can damage the cane.
Spray insecticides late in evening to avoid injury to bees.
Grow scented geraniums. They make great air fresheners.
Plant bottle gourds and make a birdhouse. Factsheet available.
Apply mulches to roses, annuals and perennials.
Shrubs and perennials look nice as foundation plantings, but rain may not reach under the eaves, so you may need to water frequently.
Bronze-leaved varieties of begonia do particularly well in full sun. Keep the foliage dry and provide good air circulation around the plants.
Make your own hummingbird food. Boil 4 cups of water and stir in 2 cups of sugar. Cool and fill feeder. Keep leftover food in refrigerator.
Harvest herbs just before flowering. The leaves contain the maximum essential oils. Cut herbs early on a sunny day.
Mulch clematis roots with an organic mulch 4"-6" deep. They like their roots cool.
Trees drop leaves in June. This is normal. Not to worry.
Stake perennials as needed before they become broken or damaged.
For hanging baskets in cool, shady location, use trailing tuberous begonias, ferns, impatiens or fibrous rooted begonias in combination with trailing plants, such as English ivy.
Bats can be an important weapon for insect control. A brown bat can eat 3,000-7,000 insects per day/night. Attract bats with bat houses. For free plan write to the Virginia Gardener, Department of Horticulture, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, Va 24061-0327.
June - Indoors
Don't rush to move your houseplants outdoors. Cool weather can cause leaf drop.
Keep cats away from diffenbachia. Diffenbachia contains a chemical that is very irritating to the animal's mouth. It can make the cat's tongue swell and interfere with breathing.
Turn houseplant pots a half turn every two days to promote even growth.
Rubber plants, Eureka palms, Peace lilies, Spider plants and pothos can make your indoor environment healthier by removing pollutants from the air.
Mad Cow Disease
You may have noticed British beef products are disappearing. There is an out-and-out ban on imports and existing products are being pulled from grocery shelves in the U. S., Canada and many other countries. Fear of mad cow disease (bovine spongiform encephalopathy, BSE) has prompted this action. British officials first identified mad cow disease in 1986. It is a progressive neurological disorder of cattle that results from infection by an unconventional agent - a protein.
Researchers suspect that cattle got the disease from sheep. Sheep have their own form of the disease called scrapie. The outbreak, which peaked in 1996, may have resulted from the feeding of scrapie-containing sheep meat and bone meal to cattle. In other words, body parts from sick sheep were rendered and processed into feed for young calves (cattle are vegetarian by nature).
Currently, the theory is that the pathogen is a modified form of a normal cell known as prion protein. The pathogenic (poison) form of the protein is resistant to enzyme degradation and cooking temperatures. The mutated prion eats away at the brains of infected victims. The brain becomes pitted with holes, much like a sponge, thus the name "spongiform." It produces abnormalities such as disorientation, staring at imaginary objects and kicking and pawing the ground, dementia and eventually death.
Nearly 100 people in Britain have died from the human form of mad cow disease and a few people in France and Ireland have died as well. British officials have admitted downplaying the severity of this disease since it is rare for an animal disease to jump to another species, which is what mad cow disease has done.
U. S. authorities have been monitoring cattle in this country for years. Suspect animals exhibiting strange behavior are killed and tested. So far the cattle industry has not detected mad cow disease in a single animal in the U. S.
Green Eggs: The Science of Egg Cookery
Have you seen hard-boiled eggs with a greenish-gray ring around the yolk? Did you wonder what it was? Is it harmful? How do you avoid it?
Although the greenish ring around the yolk is unappealing, it is not harmful and it does not affect the flavor of the egg. It is caused by a natural chemical reaction between compounds in the yolk and the white, and it is only formed when eggs are heated.
The Science of Egg Cookery
The egg yolk contains iron and the white (albumen) contains sulfur. During boiling the sulfur atoms are liberated and react with hydrogen ions in the white to form hydrogen sulfide (a gas). As gas forms, it diffuses in all directions and some reaches the surface of the yolk, where it encounters iron and reacts to form dark particles of ferrous sulfide (FeS).
The way to minimize the discoloration is to minimize the amount of hydrogen sulfide that reaches the yolk. When preparing hard-cooked eggs, use proper cooking times and temperatures, do not cook eggs in boiling water, do not use an iron pot, cool cooked eggs rapidly in cold water and peel them promptly.
Hard Cooked Eggs
Most people do not know how to make hard-boiled eggs. The term "hard boiled egg" is the killer. It implies the need to cook eggs in rapidly boiling water for a long time. If this is your method, you are probably producing green rubbery eggs consistently. Eggs, in fact, do not need to boil, which is why the American Egg Board no longer uses the term "hard boiled." Holding eggs in hot water for 15 minutes will cook the white and produce a firm yellow yolk. See "To Hard Cook Eggs" in Health & Household Tips of this issue.
Hard cooked eggs will keep safely in the refrigerator for one week. Remember cooked eggs are perishable and should not be left at room temperature for more than two hours - including Easter eggs.
Concern for Egg Safety
Eating raw or undercooked eggs can put you at risk of foodborne illness (a.k.a. food poisoning). According to the USDA Food Safety and Consumer Education Office, some unbroken fresh shell eggs contain certain bacteria that can cause illness. The bacteria are Salmonella enteritidis. While the number of eggs affected is quite small, there is no way of identifying a safe egg from an unsafe one. People with health problems, the very young, the elderly and pregnant women (the risk is to the unborn child) are particularly vulnerable to Salmonella.
Do not eat raw eggs - This includes "health-food" milk shakes with raw eggs, homemade mayonnaise, uncooked eggnog and other recipes in which the raw egg ingredients are not cooked.
Buy clean eggs - At the store, open the carton and check to make sure the eggs are clean and uncracked. Make sure the eggs are in the refrigerator section of the grocery store.
Refrigerate eggs - Refrigerate eggs as soon as possible in the carton in coldest part of your refrigerator. The coldest part of your refrigerator is not in the door. Although the compartment on the door is designated by refrigerator manufacturers as an egg storage area, it is a major design flaw. The coldest part is the shelf closest to the freezer coils. Doesn't that make sense?
Use eggs promptly - Use raw shell eggs within 3 to 5 weeks. Hard cooked eggs will keep for one week, use leftover yolks and whites within 4 days.
Freeze eggs for longer storage - Do not freeze eggs in their shells. To freeze whole eggs, beat yolks and whites together and use a freezer container. Egg whites can be frozen by themselves. Use frozen eggs within one year.
Handle eggs safely - Wash hands, utensils, equipment and work areas with warm soapy water before and after contact with eggs and egg-rich foods.
Store eggs safely - Do not keep eggs, including Easter eggs, out of the refrigerator more than two hours after cooking. Store leftover egg-rich foods in the refrigerator and use within 3 to 4 days.
Cook eggs - Hard cooked eggs should be safe for everyone to eat. Those at risk for foodborne illness should avoid eating soft-cooked or "runny" eggs.
As one of his final acts in office, Secretary of Agriculture, Dan Glickman announced the final national standards for the production, handling and processing of organically grown agriculture products. The announcement was made on December 20, 2000.
Essentially, the new organic standard offers a national definition for the term "organic." It details the methods, practices and substances that can be used in producing and handling organic crops and livestock, as well as processed products. It establishes clear organic labeling criteria and specifically prohibits the use of genetic engineering methods, ionizing radiation and sewage sludge for fertilization.
All agricultural products labeled organic must originate from farms or handling operations certified by a state or private agency accredited by USDA. Farms and handling operations that sell less than $5,000 worth per year of organic agricultural products are exempt from certification. Farmers and handlers have 18 months to comply with the national standards.
Consumers will begin to see new organic labeling on products in their local grocery stores by this summer, with full implementation by mid-2002.
The final national organic standards rule, which takes into consideration over 300,000 public comments, was published in the Federal Register on December 21, 2000. The rules, along with detailed factsheets and other background information is available on the web at http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop
Source: Condensed from USDA News Release, Release No. 04.25.00
Your Spring Vegetable Garden Plan
Vegetables are getting a lot of attention from food, health and nutrition researchers these days. "Eat your vegetables," may have been the best advice from your mother. A growing body of research has shown that a plant-based diet is associated with lower incidence of coronary heart disease, obesity and several types of cancer. Since it is time to plan the first crops of spring for your garden, let's talk about some of the best choices.
Spring vegetables are generally planted as soon as the ground thaws. The first vegetables are the hearty cool weather plants, which includes some of the most nutritious - beets, onions, sweet peas, garlic, lettuce, radishes, broccoli and the entire cabbage family.
Beets - Maybe as a kid you didn't like beets. They are often found on salad bars and at the farmers' market. They are getting a lot of attention due to high antioxidant, fiber and folate content. Eating beets (tops and bottoms) may reduce your risk of some forms of cancer and heart disease.
The Cabbage Family - According to the National Cancer Institute cabbage and its cruciferous cousins, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and bok choy are among the most powerful vegetables you can eat. Loaded with beta-carotene, Vitamin C, fiber and a host of minerals, by planting from this group you cannot go wrong.
Garlic and onions - Compounds in this group of vegetables have been linked to reducing blood pressure, reducing the risk of developing some forms of cancer, and they add wonderful flavor to any meal.
Strawberries - A good source of Vitamin C, potassium and fiber and fresh strawberries are simply delicious. They are also extremely low in calories, as a whole cup only contains about 50 calories.
Spinach, chard, collards and kale - Leafy greens are so much more flavorful when they are fresh. The chlorophyll in the leaves of these vegetables masks the orange beta-carotene. Researchers have also identified chlorophyll as a plant chemical linked with reducing the risk of cancer.
Of course, there are many more spring favorites from which to choose. For more ideas about what to plant in your spring garden, visit the Hort Corner at the Urban Programs Resource network and click on Watch Your Garden Grow, Strawberries and More, and other sites at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu.
Health & Household Tips
Having a Bad Air Day?
According to the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) Consumer Magazine, finding out the degree of air pollution in your neighborhood is as easy as going into the Environmental Protection Agency's (EPA) AIRNOW web site (http://www.epa.gov/airnow) and zooming in on your region.
The site provides real-time information abeout air quality in an easy-to-read format. It also has background about the environmental and public health effects of air pollution, along with tips for consumers on how to protect their health and actions they can take to reduce pollution.
The site includes links to web cameras situated in cities such as Chicago, Denver and St. Louis, so users can visually check out the visibility and air quality in those areas at different times of the day. Currently, AIRNOW focuses on ground-level ozone (smog), but EPA plans to include surveys of other pollutants on the web site in the future.
Source: FDA Consumer, January-February 2001, Volume 35, Number 1
Add Dried Fruits to Your Diet
It was Americans ho-hum attitude toward dried fruit that prompted the California Prune Council to petition the Food & Drug Administration for a name change from prunes to "dried plums." Although most people don't think of grabbing a bag of dried fruit for snacking, it is a way to increase fruit in the diet while satisfying the craving for something sweet.
During the drying process, water is removed, which results in some Vitamin C loss, but other antioxidants, fiber and minerals such as iron and potassium remain intact. Dried fruits do not spoil, don't need to be washed or peeled and they are compact and lightweight. Many brands are treated with the freshening agent sulfur dioxide, so, read the ingredient label and steer clear if you are allergic to their preservative.
To Hard Cook Eggs (The American Egg Board Method)
Hard Cooked Eggs
Large eggs Cold water
Place eggs in a single layer in a stainless steel or other non-reactive saucepan (do not use iron).
Add enough cold tap water to come at least one inch above eggs. Cover and quickly bring just to boiling.
Turn off heat. If necessary, remove pan from burner to prevent further boiling.
Let eggs stand, covered, in the hot water about 15 minutes for large eggs (12 minutes for medium, 18 minutes for extra large).
Immediately run cold water over eggs or place them in ice water until completely cooled (about 15 minutes).
To remove shell, crackle egg by tapping gently all over with the back of a spoon or on a hard surface. Roll egg between hands to loosen shell, then peel, starting at large end. Hold egg under running cold water or dip in a bowl of water to help ease off the shell.
Did You Know...
...a "true key lime" is a small, round, yellow, aromatic citrus fruit grown year-round in warm climates all over the world? It also goes by the name Mexican lime or West Indian lime. Botanist Henry Perrine planted the first commercial groves in the Florida Keys around 1835. Hurricanes wiped out commercial key lime groves in southern Florida in 1926 and growers replanted with the hybrid "Persian lime" which is green, larger and more disease, pest and cold resistant than the yellow key lime. Persian limes are the less flavorful green limes found in most supermarkets in the U. S. Confused? How do you think Mexicans feel when they find "green" limes in supermarkets here?
...key lime pie evolved around 1835 with the creation of canned, condensed (a.k.a. evaporated) milk by a struggling inventor named Gail Borden? Canned milk became popular in remote areas where fresh milk was not available - like Key West, Florida. When "key limes" became scarce, pie-makers began using the readily available green limes. True key lime pie is actually yellow in color like the true key lime. Green food color was added much later so the color of the pie matched the color of the new lime. Necessity is truly the motherhood of invention. Today's chefs are demanding the real thing, which is being imported from Mexico and Central America.
...the word chipotle is showing up on restaurant menus and in recipes a lot these days? What is a chipotle? It is a ripe, red or green jalapeno chili (or pepper) that has been smoked and dried. These fiery, flavorful peppers can be purchased in the dried state, canned in adobo sauce or flaked. The chipotle is widely used in barbecue sauce and it is also being added to sweet tomato sauce recipes, soups and dips in fine restaurants everywhere.
...the size of an egg is based on weight? Size represents the minimum net weight per dozen. In descending order, egg sizes are Jumbo (30 ounces per dozen), Extra Large (27 ounces per dozen), Large (24 ounces per dozen), Medium (21 ounces per dozen), Small (18 ounces per dozen) and Peewee (15 ounces per dozen). Medium, Large and Extra large are the sizes most commonly available because these are the sizes hens most often lay. Most recipes for baked dishes such as custards, cakes, cookies and other formula items are based on Large eggs. In baking, it is important to have the right proportion of liquid and dry ingredients and eggs provide liquid.
Source: American Egg Board's Rediscover Eggs Newsletter, Volume 3, Number 2
