You live with your landscape 365 days a year. Why not get the most out of it? By using fall-blooming perennials, you can keep your landscape and garden interesting even during the cold months.

Most fall-blooming perennials are hardy, long-lived and come in vivid colors. They can be planted from spring until mid-October. The dried flowers and stalks also can remain in the garden during winter, adding beauty to the landscape and providing a feeding place for birds.

Fall is a good time to purchase and plant these perennials because you can see what the flowers look like. It's best to visit many nurseries so you can see a variety of fall-blooming plants. You're also more likely to find some unusual ones.

One of the most unusual fall-flowering plants is the toad lily, which thrives in partial shade and moist soil and produces clusters of orchid-like flowers covered with purple speckles. It blooms from late September until frost.

For daisy lovers, there's chrysanthemum nipponicum, which is covered with yellow-centered flowers with white petals. It looks very much like a Shasta daisy. It starts blooming in September and can be used to extend the daisy season.

Others are Japanese anemone, with large, pink, reddish or white petals; woods aster, with a profusion of iridescent purple or pink flowers; false dragon's head, which resembles white or purple snapdragons; and chrysanthemum pacificum, grown for its dusky green foliage trimmed with silver.

Many perennials provide added interest in the winter. From late July to mid-September, Russian sage produces spikes of fragrant purple flowers above silvery foliage. When winter comes, the leaves and stalks bleach to a silvery white. It looks great next to shrubs that have red berries.

Cultivars of wild goldenrod are extremely hardy and do well in partial shade and dry soil. In the fall, they're covered with golden-yellow flowers. After frost, the flowers turn fluffy white and later golden brown. They can be picked for dried arrangements.

A cultivar of Joe Pye weed grows four feet high with burgundy stems and dark green, leathery foliage. It likes moist soil but will do fine in drier gardens. The flowers are enormous, reaching eight to 10 inches across. They start out dusky purple and go through many color changes, staying attractive all winter long.

Sedums have long been used for their winter beauty. Bright pink, pale pink or reddish flowers form clusters up to six inches across. The stems and flowers turn tawny when cold weather comes.

Before buying perennials, prepare your soil by adding fertilizer, bone meal and organic matter. Plant the perennials in holes the same depth and width as the pots they come in and gently tamp the dirt around them. Mulching will hinder weeds and retain moisture.

Perennials are hardy and can take a lot of weather extremes once they're established, but, they do need some care. Potted plants usually come with tags that give instructions about shade and watering requirements. It's important to water deeply or the roots will grow next to the soil surface and the plants will dry out quickly.

Source: Dan Stearns, Penn State Pointers, Penn State

Gardeners usually have a few extra seeds or seed packages left over after planting their gardens and these leftover seeds can be stored to grow another day.

Seeds are dormant living things that do not germinate to produce a new plant until warm temperatures and moisture break their dormancy. To keep seeds dormant, you must keep them cool and dry.

Some garden seeds can be stored for long periods without much special treatment. Following is the shelf life of some popular plantings.

• Five Years: Cucumber, endive and muskmelon
• Four Years: Cabbage, cauliflower, eggplant, pumpkin, radish and squash
• Three Years: Beans, celery, carrot, lettuce, pea, spinach and tomato
• Two years: Beets and peppers
• One Year: Sweet corn, onion, parsley and parsnips

Relative seed shelf lives can be greatly improved by using several storage methods available to almost any homeowner. They key to storage is maintaining a constant temperature – preferably between 35 and 41 degrees F - and eliminating excess moisture.

Moisture is the enemy. Germination is hastened by high humidity and moisture, either in contact with the seed or in the storage container.

The following storage methods are recommended:

• Closed containers. Use cans or glass jars with screw-top lids. Plastic 35 mm film containers are ideal for seed storage.
• Drying agents. Placing an absorbent material in the container extends the life of the seed. Dry powdered milk works well. It attracts moisture from its surrounding, so don't open the storage container except to use the seeds or change the drying agent.

The following steps will create a powdered milk drying package.

1. Unfold and stack four facial tissues.

2. Put two heaping tablespoons of powdered milk on one corner.

3. Fold or roll the tissue into a small packet, sealing the ends with tape or rubber bands.

4. Place the packet in the larger container holding the seeds and seal the container. The drying agent should be changed every six months.

5. Store in a refrigerator or a similar cool spot. Do not put it in the freezer.

This method is a great way to save commercial seeds or those you have collected from friends.

Source: Robert Nuss, Penn State.

September

• Overseeding & establishment (optimum time) - first week
• Fertilization (key time) - first 2 weeks
• Cultivation (aerification, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing
• Postemergence broadleaf weed control to actively growing weeds (optimum time)

October

• Postemergence broadleaf weed control (early in month) if weeds actively growing
• Cultivation (aerification, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing

November

• Mowing until dormant
• Late season fertilization within one week of final mowing of year

We have taken numerous calls about carpenter ant nests in trees. Carpenter ants normally do not need to be controlled in trees because they usually cause little or no damage to the tree.

Carpenter ants vary in size and color. The black carpenter ant is probably the most common species in landscapes. Worker ants are non-reproducing females that are wingless and black. Workers come in two size ranges. Minor workers are approximately 1/4 inch long and do much of the food foraging, nest construction and larval feeding; they also attend the queen. Major workers are also wingless and black, but are about 1/2 inch long and play a major role in defending the nest and minor workers.

The black carpenter ant is the only carpenter ant in Illinois that commonly locates its nests in buildings. They tunnel out wood that is damp or decaying from roof or water pipe leaks. (The red carpenter ant is another common species, with red, wingless workers that are about 1/4 inch long. Other, smaller species of carpenter ants are also found in Illinois.)

Carpenter ants build their nests by hollowing out rotting wood; they do not eat the wood. Workers take mouthful-sized chips of wood to the nest entrance, where they deposit the chips. This results in a pile of coarse sawdust at the base of a tree. The nest itself consists of meandering, 1/4 inch diameter tunnels that are free of sawdust. Egg laying, larval rearing and pupation take place within these tunnels. Nests may be present in rotting wood in trunks, limbs or roots.

Nests that are at least five years old will contain winged reproductives. Black carpenter ant males are 1/4 inch long and have two pairs of clear wings. The queens are approximately 3/4 inch long and also have two pairs of clear wings. Both sexes emerge from the colony in early morning and fly towards the light to escape the colony. Mating occurs and the reproductives break their wings off at weakened spots. Then they tunnel into damp, rotting wood to start a new colony.

Carpenter ant nests in trees are an indication of rotting wood. Such trees should be checked to determine whether the rot has weakened the tree enough that it becomes a hazard. Nests in trees close to a house may result in ants entering the house to forage. This nuisance can be eliminated by spraying diazinon into the nest or by pruning overhanging limbs at least three feet back from the roof. Otherwise, carpenter ant nests do not directly weaken the tree and do not usually require control.

Source: Phil Nixon, Entomologist, University of Illinois

Small Fruit Crops for the Backyard

Explains the basics of growing fruit in the home garden.
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/fruit/index.html

Lawn FAQS

Frequently asked questions about home lawn care.
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/lawnfaqs/index.html

Master Gardener Program

Do you enjoy gardening and would like to learn more? Do you enjoy sharing your knowledge with others? The Chicago Master Gardener Program may be for you. All you need is an interest in gardening, an open mind and a willingness to share your knowledge with others.

Attendance at all 10-12 Master Gardener training classes is required. These classes are conducted daytimes, one day per week from mid-January through March. Each class begins at 9 am and concludes at 3 pm and will be held at the Garfield Park Conservatory, 300 N. Central Park in Chicago.

For more information or for an application call 773-233-0476 or you can apply online at: http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/chicago/mg/

Plant Trees the Right Way

Proper planting is critical to assure the success of trees in the landscape. Whether planting a tree this upcoming fall or next spring, there are a few basic guidelines to follow.

Begin by digging an adequate planting hole that should be wide enough to easily get the root ball inside. Dig the hole so the plant will remain at the same depth its was growing in the nursery. Don't dig a deeper hole and then fill it in, as chances are the soil will settle and then the plant will be too deep. Plants should remain at the same depth as grown in the nursery.

Another area of confusion is what to do with the soil before backfilling into the hole. You often hear or read the suggestion to add peat moss, compost or other amendments. Some research suggests that this may in fact be detrimental to the growth of the tree. Backfill with the same soil removed when digging the hole. Roughen the sides of the hole to help roots.

For balled and burlapped stock, always handle very carefully so the soil ball is not broken, as many roots could be severed. Always handle the plant by the soil ball or container, not the trunk or stem! Once in the ground, remove rope or twine tied to the trunk. Cut back burlap as far as possible and remove or push down into the hole so it doesn't stick out of the soil.

With container stock, carefully remove the container and inspect visible roots. Cut any severely curled roots and spread the others. Although containers made of materials that decompose will eventually break down if not removed, the plant will take much longer to get established.
After planting and backfilling, water the area thoroughly. After the water has drained away, mulch the planting area. Organic mulches such as bark, wood chips or pine needles are good choices. Fertilization is not suggested at planting time, although specific packaged, slow-release products for the planting hole would be an exception.

Source: Bruce Spangenberg, Extension Educator, Horticulture

Prepare Lawns for Winter

With all the activities associated with fall and season-end chores to do, gardeners tend to neglect the lawn. There are a few guidelines to consider when preparing lawns for winter that can help keep problems to a minimum.

As conditions cool down in fall, some grasses go dormant faster than others, leading to multicolored lawns. For example, warm-season perennial grasses, such as nimblewill, appear as white or light gray patches in the lawn.

Crabgrass, a warm-season annual, dies off in early fall, leaving brown areas in the lawn. Different cultivars of desirable lawn grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, may vary in how fast they go dormant, which can add to the mottled appearance of lawns this time of year.

One of the main problems facing lawns over winter is snow mold disease. Remember all the crusty patches early last spring as the snow melted away? Lawns left very high for the winter, along with being covered with debris such as leaves, are prime candidates for damage. Other factors increasing the chances for snow mold include excess nitrogen fertilizer, shade, poor drainage and excess thatch.

Avoid heavy snow mold development by cleaning up fallen leaves and other debris off your lawn. If the lawn is quite tall, a final mowing may be needed; although it could be too late if grasses have gone dormant and are matted down. Also avoid packing down snow cover on lawns, as slowly melting areas may be more prone to snow mold early next spring.

Another lawn problem that can be very visible early next spring is vole or field mouse damage. These animals will leave a series of winding trails in the grass as they burrow under snow cover. Cleaning up leaves and mowing until the end of the season will help minimize damage. In addition, remove any excess vegetative debris near lawn areas, as it could be cover for voles.

Finally, one last problem to consider this winter is salt damage to lawn grasses. Avoid shoveling or plowing snow containing high levels of deicing salts onto turf areas, as high levels of salt will lead to turf damage next spring. Try to clear snow before putting down salt and only use enough salt to get the job done.

Source: Bruce Spangenberg, Extension Educator, Horticulture

New Daylily Disease

The new disease on daylily is rust, caused by Puccinia hemerocallidis. It has been reported in the United States for two years. The fungus is native to Asia, with a natural range similar to that of daylily species. Due to much hybridizing of daylily, the disease resistance that occurs as plants evolve in nature has been lost. Cultivars reported as susceptible include Attribution, Pardon Me, Gertrude Condon, Crystal Tide, Colonel Scarborough, Starstruck, Joan Senior, Imperial Guard, Double Buttercup and Stella De Oro.

What do you look for? It looks like most rust diseases. Look for raised pustules on either surface of the leaf but especially the undersides. The yellow-orange to reddish brown pustules produce abundant spores that rub off when touched. Resistant varieties may produce only yellow flecks. A few web sites discuss this rust and show pictures of the disease and pathogen. A site to start with is http://www.ncf.ca/~ah748/rust.html.

The big concern over this disease is that it spreads very rapidly (new infections arise in two to three days on more susceptible cultivars), and daylilies have become one of the most popular and widespread perennials in the Midwest. Does it kill entire plants? We do not believe so, but it may kill infected foliage on susceptible plants. If found, infected foliage should be removed and fungicides considered to protect new foliage. State and national plant inspectors are watching for this disease, but you should too.

Western Corn Rootworm Beetle Invades Chicago

The Western Corn Rootworm Beetle rode the hot summer winds into the Chicago area. This 1/4 inch long, yellow beetle with three black stripes running down the length of it back and with a yellowish underside has chewed its way through vegetable gardens.

It is often misidentified as a cucumber beetle. Unlike the cucumber beetle it does not spread a bacterial wilt disease. According to Jim Morrison, Extension Educator, Crops Systems, the appearance of the beetle is most likely a one time event caused by higher than normal populations in other parts of the state that were caught up in down drafts triggered by the development of certain atmospheric conditions. The beetles were even reported to be on the 50th floor of the Prudential Building and piles of them have washed up on Lake Michigan beaches.

The University of Illinois Extension has received reports of this beetle on sweet corn, beans, tomatoes, okra, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, basil, canna, sunflowers and daylilies. They have been especially damaging to beans often skeletonizing the leaves.

If you have just a few beetles in the garden no control is necessary. Higher numbers of beetles may damage plants necessitating spraying with the insecticide Sevin or an organic control like Rotenone. Read and follow all label directions.

Watch for Leaf Crumpler

Leaf crumpler is a common pest in ornamental landscapes and on nursery plants. Although their ugly masses are not very noticeable, this is the best time to control this caterpillar and prevent heavy damage next year. Heavy infestations tend to occur on the same plants year after year.

Leaf crumpler attacks cotoneaster, crabapple, pear, hawthorn, pyracantha and privet. Small (first-instar) caterpillars (larvae) skeletonize leaves, but as the caterpillars increase in size, they consume all plant tissues except the midrib. Mature caterpillars are about 3/4 inch long. Caterpillar feeding is greatest in June and early July.

Caterpillars construct cases made of dead leaf fragments, silk webbing and frass pellets that are attached to twigs and branches. Cases may be almost two inches long. These habitats make the host plat appear ugly. Leaf crumpler uses these cases to hibernate and pupate. The cases may remain on plants for several months after moths emerge. Moths (adults) emerge in late June with peak emergence in mid-July. Adult females lay eggs from late July to August. Eggs are laid either individually or in masses along the veins on the leaf underside. Females live for approximately 10 days. The insect overwinters as larvae and there is one generation per year.

Pruning out or destroying cases can manage small populations of leaf crumpler. Materials that can be used to control leaf crumpler include Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki (Dipel), and diazinon. Bacillus thuringiensis works best on young caterpillars; it must be ingested to be effective. Diazinon works by contact, so thorough plant coverage is essential. All materials mentioned must be applied in the late summer and early fall before the caterpillars hibernate in the cases. Diazinon should also be effective in the spring when the caterpillars start to feed again.

September - Edible

Pull vegetable plants that have finished bearing and add to the compost pile.

Plant radishes, spinach, leaf lettuce and mustard greens.
Pull weeds before their seeds ripen. This will save much weeding next year.

Visit a pick-your-own orchard. For a list of farms call 773-233-0476 or visit our web site at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/apples/

September - Ornamental

Seed a new lawn or renovate a poor quality one early in the month.

Core aerate or dethatch lawn if thatch layer is greater than 1/2 inch.

Plant trees, shrubs and perennials.

Harvest gourds when shells become hard or turn brown.

Divide spring or early summer flowering perennials and replant.

Divide crowded daylilies.

Plant peonies and lilies.

Leave flower heads with edible seeds, like purple coneflowers and sunflowers standing to feed wild birds over the winter.

Lift and divide iris rhizomes and overgrown peonies.

September - Indoor

Bring houseplants indoors before night temperatures regularly dip below 50°F.

Start the dormant period for your winter-flowering amaryllis. Place them in a cool, dark location and let them dry so the foliage will die back. They should be dormant until early December.

Poinsettias can be forced into bloom for Christmas if they are moved indoors to a sunny window. Each night for 8-10 weeks, they must be kept in a cool, dark place where there is no light for 14 hours.

October - Edible

Collect garden soil for testing if it has been over three years since the last test. Booklet available.

Plant garlic and shallots for next year's harvest.

Sow cover crops such as winter rye after crops are harvested.

Visit a local 'pick-your-own" pumpkin farm. For a listing call 773-233-0476 or visit our web site at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/pumpkins

Dig up and pot annual herbs for a winter window sill herb garden.

Prepare to cover plants from frost. The first killing frost occurs on average around October 15.

October - Ornamental

Mow, mulch, shred or compost leaves as they fall.

Plant tulips, crocus, daffodils and other spring flowering bulbs.

Dig and store dahlias, cannas and caladiums in a frost-free location.

Continue watering, especially evergreens, if soils are dry.

Check evergreens for bagworms. Cut off and destroy them.

Dig up geranium plants. Brush soil after their roots dry and hang them in a cool, dry place for replanting them in spring.

Continue to mow grass until it stops growing.

October - Indoor

Fertilize most houseplants for the last time until next spring.

Bring fibrous begonias, coleus and impatiens indoors in early October for potted houseplants.

November - Edible

Remove mummified fruit from trees and rake up those on the ground.

This practice will reduce new insect and disease infestations.

Mulch strawberries when ground is frozen.

Cut back tips of rhubarb and asparagus.

Make a list of tools and materials needed for the next growing season.

Sharpen shovels and hoes.

Seal up open fertilizer bags with tape. Moisture can be a problem in storage.

November - Ornamental

Plan an after Thanksgiving visit to a local Christmas tree farm. List of Christmas tree farms available by calling 773-233-0476 or visit our Christmas Trees & More web site at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/trees/

Plant bulbs until ground is frozen.

Plan for winter color.

Winterize roses.

Mulch perennials after ground freezes.

Protect shrubs and young trees from rabbits and mice.

Prepare evergreens for the harshness of winter.

Stake newly planted trees to protect them from winter winds.

Start amaryllis bulbs for Xmas bloom.

Reduce fertilization and watering of houseplants during shorter days.

Line shelves and window sills with aluminum foil. The foil will reflect light and provide more light for houseplants.

Turn houseplants regularly for even growth.

Try orchids as a houseplant.

Potassium is an essential mineral. It is one of a group of minerals called electrolytes. Electrolytes: sodium, chloride and potassium help to maintain your body's water balance. These minerals are essential to your muscles as they contract and relax, including the heart.

Electrolytes also help transmit nerve impulses throughout the body.
Potassium deficiency is rare in the average person, but there are conditions that may deplete the body of potassium. When potassium levels are very low, heart irregularities and even paralysis can occur. During prolonged bouts with vomiting and diarrhea, the body may lose large amounts of potassium.

Also some medications can increase your need for potassium, including excessive laxative use, high blood pressure medication or other diuretics (medications that increase urine output). Along with fluid loss, there is also loss of potassium.

While there is no recommended daily allowance for potassium, the minimum amount suggested for adults is 2000 mg per day. Research indicates that a diet high in potassium rich foods may also offer protection against heart disease.

There is considerable evidence that dietary potassium exerts a beneficial effect in the treatment of high blood pressure. Therefore, a recommendation for increased consumption would raise potassium intake from fruits and vegetables in adults with hypertension to 3500 mg per day.

Potassium is found in a wide variety of foods such as fruits, many vegetables, fresh meat, poultry and fish. Foods that are not highly processed generally have more potassium and less sodium. Below are some potassium-rich foods.

1 medium banana	467 mg
1 cup cooked collard greens	260 mg
1 cup sliced mushrooms	233 mg
1/2 cup cooked okra	255 mg
1 cup fat-free milk	407 mg
medium orange	250 mg
6 dried plums (prunes)	375 mg
1 cup sliced cucumbers	233 mg
1/2 cup cooked sweet potatoes	348 mg
1 medium nectarine	288 mg
3 ounces cooked haddock	340 mg

Infused Vinegar

There is much power and mysticism surrounding the herb basil. In India, basil is held in reverence and sprigs are often buried with the dead to protect them. Basil has been a sign of courtship in Italy. A beau could guarantee the love of his life by presenting her with a bouquet of basil, although, in today's society a gourmet meal of designer pasta with pesto, a crusty loaf of bread and a good bottle of local wine would be more apt to win her over.

Basil is an annual that grows well all summer. It is generally available fresh in most grocery stores year round and also grows well in hothouses. There are nearly sixty varieties of basil and the most commonly available are sweet basil, lemon basil, cinnamon basil and Thai basil.

Basil is very sensitive to cool temperatures and will be devastated by any hint of frost. Although basil can be cut for use as soon as the young plants start to appear, flowering basil has a more assertive flavor than basil that is still producing leaves. Both the flowers and the leaves of basil are edible. The flowers can be used for garnishing savory or sweet dishes and they are also delicious added to salads and side dishes. The flowers and leaves can be ground together to make any dish calling for fresh basil.

Sweet basil is the variety used by manufacturers of herbs and spices. It has a rich, spicy, mildly peppery flavor with a trace of mint and clove. It is the most widely grown basil and the most popular for use in cooking. Sweet basil is most often used in Italian dishes such as the popular sauce called "pesto," fresh on pizza and most often paired with fresh tomatoes in many concoctions.

While basil is best eaten fresh, its flavor can be preserved by making basil infused vinegar. For making Basil Infused Vinegar, follow these simple steps.

Basil Infused Vinegar

Use this vinegar in any recipe using tomatoes or calling for basil and vinegar as ingredients.

Use to make salad dressing or simmer to half volume to make a reduction for meat marinade, sauce , or other recipes.

2 cups basil leaves, washed, dried, & coarsely chopped
4 cups vinegar
2 cloves garlic, crushed

1. Wash and sterilize a large (2 quart) glass jar or container. Sterilize the jar by submerging it in water in a large pot or water bath canner. Bring water to a full boil and boil for 10 minutes.

2. Add the chopped basil and garlic to the sterilized container.

3. Heat the vinegar to just below boiling, about 190-195° F. Pour the vinegar over the basil and garlic. Stir.

4. Cover with plastic wrap and secure with a rubber band. Allow the vinegar to steep undisturbed, at room temperature for 2 to 4 weeks. It takes about 3-4 weeks for the vinegar to develop full flavor.

5. When ready, strain the vinegar and discard the basil and garlic. Pour vinegar into sterilized bottles or jars. Add a sprig of washed basil for decoration before closing the jars, if desired.

6. Refrigerating your flavored vinegar will extend the quality and fresh herb flavor for 6-8 months. If your vinegar develops mold or signs of spoilage such as bubbling, cloudiness, or sliminess, throw it away without using any of the vinegar for any purpose.

Note: Several types of vinegar may be used. Clear vinegar produces a lovely green color from the herb infusion. White distilled vinegar is clear in color and has a sharp acidic taste by itself. It is a good choice for delicately flavored herbs and it will work well in this recipe. White wine or champagne vinegar is more expensive, but they produce wonderful herb infused vinegar. Apple cider vinegar blends best with fruits and berries.

Forty percent of our food dollars are spent on meals eaten away from home. At this rate restaurant tipping could become very expensive. TIPS should stand for - To Insure Prompt Service. It is a custom based on the generosity of a customer who appreciates the service received.

Actually you should tip when you have received prompt service or if your waiter/waitress has been able to get a special request from the chef. There are no hard and fast rules about tipping but the following suggestions come from Las Vegas where tipping rules.

• Bartenders: $1 per round for parties of two or four.
• Bellman: $2-5, depending on your need for services during your stay.
• Maids: About $1 per day, usually left at the end of your stay.
• Restaurant waiters: Standard 15-20 percent rule applies.
• Room service waiters: Standard 15-20 percent rule applies.
• Skycaps: 50 cents to $1 per bag, depending on size and weight.
• Taxicab/shuttle drivers: Standard 15 percent of fare.
• Valet parking attendants: $1-2.

When paying for meals with a credit card, leaving the tip in cash insures that the money gets to the right person. Since a tip is a "reward" for good service, tipping for poor service is counter productive. A tip should be merited.

Colon Screening

Each year 58,000 Americans die of colorectal cancer and most would have lived if the disease had been spotted earlier. The national cancer Institute recommends colon screening for everyone over 50 years of age. The screening should consist of two tests: an annual fecal occult blood test (to detect if blood is in the stool) and a sigmoidoscopy or a colonoscopy to examine the inside of the colon (every 5 to 10 years).

What's the difference between the two tests? A sigmoidoscopy allows your doctor to examine the lower third of your colon, while the colonoscopy provides a view of the entire length of the colon. Sigmoidoscopy does not require sedation, it is much cheaper ($200 compared to $1200), and is usually covered by health insurance. Bottom line...get tested, know where you stand.

Translating Ingredients Lists

In Europe food labels list the ingredients by percentage. Key ingredients are listed with percentage information on all food labels. In the US ingredients on food labels are listed from most to least but there is no indication as to how much of any ingredient is actually in the packaged food item.

The Center for Science in the Public Interest has proposed a more "user friendly" ingredient list for consumers. They are proposing a list that actually talks about food items, not chemical names most people don't understand anyway.

The National Food Processors say such a label would be too difficult and costly. But, what good is an ingredient to the average consumer if it is written in scientific language? Write to your congressman!

Americans Unaware of Cancer Risks

The American Institute for Cancer Research (AICR) recently released findings on how concerned Americans are about acquiring certain diseases and conditions. The diseases listed included the common cold, cancer, diabetes, AIDS, cardiovascular disease and obesity.

According to the survey, cancer is the number one day-to-day health concern of most Americans. Although a majority of respondents were able to identify tobacco (92 percent) and excessive sun exposure (90 percent) as proven cancer risks, few were able to identify other risks.

For example, only 46% of those surveyed listed a diet low in fruits and vegetables as a cancer promoter. Insufficient physical activity and obesity was listed by only 35% of those surveyed and only 42% believed alcohol increased cancer risk. Research strongly links poor diet, excessive alcohol, obesity and lack of exercise to 11 different types of cancer.

Researchers at AICR concluded that as Americans we are worried about cancer, we feel that it is inevitable and we are largely unaware of the steps to reduce the risk. There is clear and convincing evidence that the choices we make everyday - choices like what foods we eat and whether or not we exercise, drink or smoke - have a dramatic impact on our risk of getting cancer. Making healthy decisions can prevent 60-70 percent of all cancers.

For more information on the survey results, visit the American Institute of Cancer Research at www.aicr.org and click on AICR Research Conference or call 1-800-843-8114 to request free publications.

...taking mineral oil can be dangerous? There is an "old wives tale" that advises taking mineral oil to keep you regular. Actually, taking mineral oil is not recommended. It can promote the loss of the fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E and K as well as fluid loss which could lead to dehydration. A fiber rich diet and plenty of water and exercise is the natural way to "stay regular."

...teeth change as you grow older? The longer you live the more stained your teeth become as a result of day to day use. Plus, surface enamel thins over the years, exposing a dingy layer underneath.

...apples have a natural wax coating? Freshly harvested apples have their own waxy coating that protects them from shriveling and weight loss. According to the Washington Apple Growers, commercially packed apples are washed at the fruit packing sheds to remove dust and chemical residues. This washing also removes about half of the natural apple wax that is replaced with commercial wax. The new wax coating is a food safe, non-petroleum product which has been approved by the Food & Drug Administration.