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University of Illinois Extension Cook County
The Green Line

http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/greenline/

For more information, please contact:
Cook County Unit
Headquarters Office
4801 Southwick Drive
Suite 100
Matteson, IL 60443
Phone: 708-481-0111 / Fax: 708-481-4151
E-mail: cook_hdq@extension.uiuc.edu

November-December 2003

Protect Your Home From Homesteading Animals With a Chimney Cap

Springtime is nesting time for many species of wildlife and an expert in Penn State's College of Agricultural Sciences says a simple addition to your home can keep those inquisitive creatures outside where they belong.

Chimneys can attract animals in search of a nesting place. Spring nesting season is just one of several reasons for animals to consider your home as their next cave or hollow tree.

At this time of the year and throughout the year, we find bats, chimney swifts, raccoons and squirrels getting into our chimneys. They can cause extensive damage. Recently, a raccoon had her babies in the firebox of a chimney of a local home. Since the babies couldn't be reached from the top of the chimney, a hole had to be torn through the firewall. The owners will have to replace all the brickwork in their fireplace.

In addition, the female raccoon shredded a huge area of roof shingles down to the wood, trying to get back to her babies. It's probably going to cost this homeowner well over a thousand dollars to repair damage that could have been prevented by a $50 chimney cap.

Caps, which are wire mesh devices that can be installed by chimney cleaners, also keep large pieces of debris from escaping the chimney when the fireplace is in use.

It's a very cheap insurance policy when you consider the damage animals can do. It's also good for them. You won't have animals getting in there and possibly dying, causing odors and health hazards. You won't have to have your chimney cleaned of fecal matter and nesting materials.

Chimney construction, with smooth interior sleeves made of metal or terra cotta, makes it easy for baby animals to get trapped. Also, chimney swifts and other birds may build nests that can ignite, causing chimney fires.

Though spring brings extra attention to nesting animal problems, there's no special time for installing a chimney cap; as soon as you're sure there are no animals in your chimney, have the cap put on. Wild animal entries can take place at any time.

In some places, I'd like to see this as a building code addition. There have been cases of animals entering homes through the chimney and devastating the living space trying to get back out. A wood duck was even found inside a firebox. Any chimney that's open to the outside should have a cap on it - whether you're using the fireplace or not. It's always important to close any exterior opening to your home.

Source: Gary San Julian, Penn State News

Winter's Coming – But Don't Abandon the Yard & Garden

The weather may be getting cold, but don't put away your lawn mower and garden tools just yet. There is still plenty to do outside.

Take time to clean up your yard and garden before it snows. You'll be rewarded with fewer insect, weed and disease problems next spring.

Lawn weary homeowners often are tempted to retire their mowers as soon as possible after Labor Day, but, it's important to keep your lawn mowed right up until the grass stops growing. Tall grass gets matted under snow, encouraging the growth of snow mold. This looks like circular white patches on your lawn in the spring. Areas with extensive snow mold damage may need reseeding.

Vegetable and flower gardens also need attention this time of year. Many insect eggs and plant diseases caused by fungi and bacteria can overwinter in garden litter. These pests and diseases attack young plants in the spring. You can eliminate a lot of these problems simply by clearing away dead plants and fallen leaves. Most of this debris, unless it's severely infected, can be composted.

Turning the soil in your vegetable garden and annual beds will help remaining plant debris decompose more quickly so that pests and disease cannot survive. This also adds organic matter to the soil.

If you have fallen behind in weeding, take heart. Late autumn and early winter is a good time to remove annual and perennial weeds. Weed control is an important part of fall gardening because it prevents weeds from seeding. A single weed pulled now can prevent hundreds of weeds from sprouting up next spring. These weeds also can harbor insects and diseases.

Most weeds are covered with seeds this time of year, so pull them carefully. No matter how carefully you weed, chances are some seeds will fall. Follow up by covering the garden with about three inches of mulch, to discourage seeds from germinating in the spring.

Perennial weeds go dormant in the winter and return full force in the spring. If you have a large patch of perennial weeds to eliminate, consider using a non-residual herbicide. Check at your local garden center to determine what herbicide to use for your particular weed problem and read the label carefully before using the herbicide. Do not spray it near perennial plants that you want to keep.

Now also is the time to get trees and shrubs ready for cold weather and snow. Wrap or fence young shrubs and trees to protect them from rodents, rabbits and deer. If you're concerned about breakage from ice and snow buildup, support branches with stakes.

Remove dead twigs and branches so that wind, ice and snow don't break them off, but, save major pruning jobs for the spring. Many evergreens will die if you prune them severely in the fall. On any tree, pruning wounds can draw away moisture during the winter.

Mulching around trees helps them retain moisture during harsh winter weather. Be careful to keep mulch at least six inches away from the trunk. Many people mound mulch up around the trunks of their trees. This is a mistake. Moisture retained by mulch can cause the bark to rot, girdling and killing the tree. Rodents also can burrow under the mulch and chew off the bark.

If you planted trees or perennials this fall, continue watering them regularly until the ground is frozen. It's crucial that these plants get plenty of water so they can develop a strong root system to sustain them during the cold weather. However, be careful not to keep the soil saturated. This will kill the developing root system.

Finally, if you haven't had your soil tested in a while, now is an excellent time.

Homeowners can get soil testing information by calling our office at 773-233-0476.

Source: J. Robert Nuss, Penn State News

Tomatoes: Planning for 2002

It's never too early to begin planning next year's garden. What worked well this year? What problems did you encounter? Which varieties will you choose for next year? Here, I'll point out some common diseases of tomatoes and discuss some key management issues. Now is a good time to evaluate your tomato varieties for diseases and begin planning for next year.

Early blight: The most characteristic symptom is brown spots on the older leaves. The circular to angular spots enlarge until they are about 1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter and soon develop dark, concentric rings or ridges, giving a target-like appearance. The fungus may also cause depressed but similar lesions around the stem end and shoulder of tomato fruit. Fruit lesions are often covered with a dark brown, velvety layer of spores.

Septoria leaf blight: Although the disease can appear on tomato leaf petioles, stems, blossoms and flower stalks, it is most commonly found on the lower leaves. Symptoms first appear as tiny, water-soaked areas, but soon enlarge to form circular or angular lesions about 1/8 to 1/4 inch in diameter. Mature lesions have a dark margin with a grayish white center that contains tiny, black fruiting (spore-producing) bodies. Heavily diseased leaves turn yellow, wither and drop off in large numbers, starting at the base of the plant.

Bacterial spot and speck: Bacterial leaf spot appears as small (1/8 inch diameter), water-soaked, translucent lesions that later turn brownish black and may have a yellow halo. The lesions are somewhat irregular and appear greasy on the upper leaf surface with a translucent center and a black margin. The centers of the lesions dry out and frequently tear. Only a few spots may cause a leaflet to turn yellow, wither and drop prematurely. Spots on green fruit first appear as small, black, raised pimples surrounded by a narrow, water-soaked border. As they age, spots are slightly raised, superficial and up to 1/3 inch in diameter, with lobed margins and water-soaked borders. Eventually the raised center sinks, forming a brownish black crater that usually does not penetrate the seed cavity. Foliar symptoms of bacterial speck are virtually identical to those of bacterial spot but can be differentiated by the symptoms on immature fruit. With bacterial speck, fruit symptoms appear as black, slightly sunken stippling, which eventually result in lesions less than 1/16 inch in diameter. With both diseases, only immature fruit are infected.

Fusarium wilt: Symptoms on mature plants generally appear between blossoming and fruit maturation. The first symptoms include yellowing of the older leaves (usually beginning on one shoot or on one side of the plant), which progresses until most foliage becomes yellow and wilts during the hottest part of the day. Eventually, the plant collapses and dies. Besides these symptoms, the fungus also causes the vascular system to turn dark, chocolate brown, beginning below the soil-line and extending for some distance up the main stem. This discoloration is especially evident where the leaf petiole joins the stem.

Verticillium wilt: Often the first symptoms are mild wilting during the day. As the disease advances, lesions develop along the edges and between the veins of lower leaflets. Unlike the target-like early blight lesions, lesions due to Verticillium wilt are V-shaped and may be either tan or brown, with diffuse yellow borders. Wilt symptoms can easily be confused with Fusarium wilt and drought. Like fusarium wilt, the symptoms are caused by the soil-borne fungus invading and plugging the vascular system. However, vascular discoloration due to the Verticillium wilt pathogen is typically lighter tan than fusarium wilt.

Viral diseases: A wide range of viruses has been identified in Illinois, including tobacco mosaic virus (TMV), cucumber mosaic virus (CMV) and tobacco etch virus (TEV). Symptoms vary, depending on which virus or viruses are involved. In general, you should suspect viral infection when you observe the following symptoms: light and dark green mottled areas on the leaves, puckered leaves, rough or wrinkle (rugose) leaves, improper unfolding of leaves, extremely distorted leaves, bunched shoot growth, mottled or warty fruit and overall stunted plant growth.

Management Suggestions

Plant resistance is a simple and inexpensive way to manage certain diseases. Many varieties are available with resistance to one or more diseases. When purchasing tomato varieties, go armed with the knowledge of which diseases have caused problems in your garden and select varieties with the appropriate resistance code (for example, V = Verticillium wilt; F1 = Fusarium wilt (race 1); F2 = Fusarium wilt (race 2); N - Nematodes; T = Tobacco mosaic virus; St = Stemphyllium )gray lef spot_; A = Alternaria stem canker; L = Septoria leaf spot). Keep in mind that even resistant plants may still succumb to disease if stressed or if disease pressure is very high.

Foliar disease such as early blight tend to be more problematic where plants are stressed, as from poor fertility, drought, insect damage or heavy fruit. Proper sunlight, fertility and irrigation go a long way toward promoting healthy plants.

No pesticides are available to control Fusarium wilt, Verticillium wilt or viral diseases, so it is important to discourage these diseases from building up and becoming a problem. Your garden may be small, but do your best to practice crop rotation. In other words, don't plant tomatoes in the same area year after year. When planning your rotation, keep in mind that Verticillium wilt is also a disease of plants closely related to tomato (such as potato and pepper).

Because many foliar diseases begin on the lower, shaded leaves, remove them preventively to reduce early infection. Should individual plants become heavily diseased and unthrifty during the season, remove them to avoid disease buildup (for soilborne disease such as Verticillium wilt or Fusarium wilt) or spread. For the same reasons, remove and dispose of the leaves, stems and large roots in the fall.

For more information about tomato culture and pest management, consider the following sources: Vegetable Gardening for the Midwest (University of Illinois Extension Circular 1331); Urban Programs Resource network - tomato, http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/veggies/tomato1.html; Report on Plant Disease (RPD) factsheets, http://www.ag.uiuc.edu/~vista/rpd.html.
These and other publications are available through your local University of Illinois Extension office.

Source: Bruce Paulsrud, University of Illinois

2002 All-America (AAS) Flower Award Winners (Part 1)

AAS proudly announces 13 new varieties that earned the AAS Award. These 13 AAS Winners were tested at AAS trial grounds across North America. Each winner has superior qualities or traits that distinguish it from similar varieties in side-by-side trials. In the last 70 years, gardeners have grown to trust the AAS Winner flowers and vegetables as those that excel in the garden.

2002 Winners:

Geranium F1 - 'Black Magic Rose'

The unusual bicolor leaf pattern distinguishes 'Black Magic Rose' from all other hybrid geraniums. Each leaf has a black center with a green leaf edge. The exceptionally dark foliage contrasts with the bright rose florets and each floret has a small white eye. 'Black Magic Rose' proved to be heat tolerant, flowering freely throughout the growing season. A strong plant, 'Black Magic Rose' can be 10 to 14 inches tall and spread 14 to 18 inches depending upon available nutrients and water. Best performance will occur in full sun. 'Black Magic Rose' is perfect for container culture.

Vinca 'Jaio Scarlet Eye'

Vinca or catharanthus roseus 'Jaio Scarlet Eye' is a distinct rose-scarlet flower color with a small white eye. There is no other vinca with this flower color. The two-inch, non-fading blooms cover the handsome one-foot tall plants. Tested across North America, 'Jaio Scarlet Eye' proved to be heat and drought tolerant. This improved vinca is perfect for gardeners who want season long garden color with minimal garden care. Easy-to-grow in a full sun garden or in patio containers.

Cleome F1 'Sparkler Blush'

'Sparkler blush' flowers freely all season. The plants are covered with pink flowers and are more refined, reaching only three feet tall and wide. This smaller size allows gardeners to grow this old fashioned annual in gardens with less space and not overwhelm the design. 'Sparkler Blush' is easy-to-grow, needing only sun and nutrients in the soil. Heat and drought tolerant, 'sparkler Blush' is a carefree plant. Adaptable to most soil types and growing conditions, 'sparkler Blush' is the first hybrid cleome, which is evident in the freedom of bloom.

Ornamental Pepper F1 'Chilly Chili'

The first family-friendly ornamental pepper with exceptional garden performance. 'Chilly Chili,' as the name implies, has non-pungent fruit. The "heat" was bred out of the peppers, which is perfect for households with children who like to explore their environment. The fruit changes color from yellow to orange and matures at red. Extremely heat tolerant, 'Chilly Chili' will provide garden color during southern summers. Pepper plants can grow about a foot tall and spread to 10 inches. The petite two inch peppers can be used as clever ornamental garnishes on salads or with ethnic entrees.

Lawn Care Calendar

November

  • Mowing until dormant
  • Late season fertilization within one week of final mowing of year

December

  • Rest for the mower

April

  • Clean up debris from winter
  • Cultivation (aerification, spiking, slicing) - Lawn should be actively growing.
  • Vertical mowing or dethatching - lawn should be actively growing.
  • Overseeding, establishment (late in month; late summer is better)
  • Preemergence annual weed (i.e. crabgrass) control (or early May)

Bug Bites: West Nile Virus

A virus new to this part of the world has found its way to Illinois. West Nile virus (WNV) has been detected in dead crows in Cook and DuPage counties. Although both sites are in northeastern Illinois, a case was also detected in a horse near Lexington, Kentucky, in late August. It has been found in 21 states, the District of Columbia and Ontario province in Canada since detected in new York in 1999. Its original home is portions of Africa, Asia and the Middle East. This virus is transmitted through mosquito bites to humans, birds, horses and other mammals. It can be fatal to humans, crows, blue jays, hawks, falcons and horses.

Various mosquitoes are capable of transmitting WNV, but Culex species are most commonly involved. The northern house mosquito, Culex pipiens, is the most common human-biting member of that group. This mosquito is a small, medium brown, quiet biter that is most common in Illinois from mid-June through the rest of the summer and fall. A quiet biter means that it lands softly on the skin, and the bite is painless enough in many people that they do not notice it. It may not buzz around your ear; and if it does, the hum of its wings is not very loud. It is usually not present in large numbers, but a few are present in most areas almost daily.

Culex are container-breeding mosquitoes. Several black eggs are laid in a mass about 1/8 inch across that floats on the water surface. The water typically has a large amount of decaying organic matter in it, frequently giving the water a dark color and putrid smell. Eggs are laid on water that has collected in tree cavities, clogged gutters, old tires, pet water dishes, birdbaths, wading pools, old tin cans and any other structure lying around that holds water after a rain. The eggs hatch into legless, slender, wriggling, whitish larvae that feed on fine debris and tiny organisms in the water. The larvae hang down from the water surface with a posterior tube sticking up through the water surface to collect air. Full-grown larvae, about 1/4 inch long, transform into aquatic comma-shaped, tumbling, non-feeding pupae. Adult mosquitoes emerge from the pupae and stand on the water surface before flying off in search of food. Both male and female adult mosquitoes feed on flower nectar, but females require a high-protein blood meal to produce a large number of fertile eggs.

The northern house mosquito does not fly far from where it grows up. You are likely to be bitten by northern house mosquitoes that grew up on your property or elsewhere in your neighborhood. By keeping gutters clean of fallen leaves, removing old tires and other water-collecting debris, stocking water lily ponds with goldfish or minnows and emptying and cleaning wading pools, birdbaths and pet water bowls weekly, you can greatly reduce the number of these mosquitoes in your yard.

This mosquito mainly bites at dawn and in the evening, so restrict your outdoor activities at those times. Wear a hat, long-sleeved shirt, long pants, shoes and socks to reduce the amount of exposed skin. If you are outdoors when mosquitoes are biting, apply an insect repellent containing DEET. Although fine for skin application, DEET should not be ingested. For young children who are unable to understand that they shouldn't lick the material off their hands or arms, use another product such as repellents advertised for child use or other repellents that don't contain DEET. Although less effective, they should be less toxic if ingested.

The northern house mosquito feeds on birds as well as mammals. A female mosquito obtains WNV particles while feeding on an infected bird. The virus particles are injected by the infected mosquito into the blood of another bird, human, horse or other mammal at a later feeding, thus transmitting the virus. Because birds are very mobile, the virus has been spreading quickly across the country.

Most people who become infected have no symptoms, but some may become ill three to fifteen days after being bitten. Typical symptoms are a fever and headache. In some, particularly elderly people, WNV can cause serious disease that includes muscle weakness, inflammation of the brain (encephalitis), stiff neck, stupor, disorientation, tremors, convulsions, paralysis, coma or death.

Horses infected with WNV can also experience brain inflammation and die. Vaccinations available for horses for encephalitic diseases do not protect against WNV. Dogs, cats and other mammals can also get WNV, but as with humans and horses, most make a full recovery.

Additional information on West Nile Virus is on the Illinois Department of Public Health Web site at http://www.idph.state.il.us/envhealth/wnvnews.htm.

Source: Philip Nixon, Entomologist, University of Illinois

Cybergarden Sites

Raspberries & More

Learn about varieties and selection, how to plant, and where to find nurseries and u-pick farms.
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/raspberries/

Let's Talk Gardening - WGN Radio

Lot of good gardening information from WGN Radio Gardening Show.
http://www.wgnradio.com/shows/gardening/info.htm

Hort Shorts

And the (National Tree) Winner Is...

...the oak, which received nearly one-quarter of the more than 440,000 votes cast for America's National Tree. The public referendum was sponsored by the National Arbor Day Foundation (Nebraska City, NE 68410, URL arborday.com). Runners-up were redwood, dogwood, maple and pine.

"Fashionable" Winter Protection for Plants

Billed as a "fashionable alternative to burlap and rose cones," the Bush JacketŪ is made of non-woven white fabric printed with green leaf patterns to "blend in" with the landscape. The Bush JacketŪ can protect shrubs from winter winds, salt spray and deer damage. Each Bush JacketŪ measures four feet by six feet and comes with 12 reusable fasteners and instructions for use. You can cut a Bush JacketŪ with regular scissors to cover several small plants, or you can hook more than one together for covering large plants. "The Bush JacketŪ will not blow off. You can mulch as you wrap. Reusable. Easy to use, to clean, to store!" Suggested retail is about $10 each. For more information, contact Circlemoon Inc., P. O. Box 3619, Ann Arbor, MI 48106, phone 800-207-3768, URL www.bushjacket.com.

"Pest-Resistant" Flower Bulbs

From the Netherlands Flower Bulb Information Center (30 Midwood St., Brooklyn, NY 11225, phone 718-693-5400) comes this list of bulbs to plant "where deer and squirrels are voracious...All are ranked high on beauty and low on pest appeal." (In contrast to tulips and crocuses, which are treats for animal pests!)

Allium, ornamental onion. Bloom late spring to early summer. Hardy in Zones 4-8, depending on cultivar.

Camassia. Bloom late spring. Hardy in Zones 4-8.

Chionodoxa, glory of the snow. Bloom late winter to early spring. Hardy in Zones 4-8.

Colchicum. Bloom late summer and fall. Hardy in Zones 4-8, depending on cultivar.

Crocus tommasinianus. Bloom late winter to early spring. Hardy in Zones 4-8.

Eranthis, winter aconite. Bloom late winter to early spring. Hardy in Zones 4-7.

Fritillaria. Bloom mid-to-late spring, depending on cultivar. Hardy in Zones 4-8.

Galanthus nivalis, snowdrop. Bloom late winter to early spring. Hardy in Zones 4-8.

Hyancinthoides hispanica, Spanish bluebell. Bloom late spring. Hardy in Zones 4-10.

Hyacinthus, hyacinth. Bloom mid-spring. Hardy in Zones 4-8.

Ipheion. Bloom early to late spring, depending on cultivar. Hardy in Zones 4-9.

Leucojum, snowflake. Bloom mid-to-late spring. Hardy in Zones 4-8. (There is also fall-blooming L. autumnale, hardy in Zones 5-9).

Muscari, grape hyacinth. Bloom mid-to-late spring, depending on cultivar. Hardy in Zones 4-9.Narcissus, daffodil. Bloom early to late spring, depending on cultivar. Hardy in Zones 4-11, depending on cultivar.

Ornithogalum. Bloom early to mid-spring. Hardy in Zones 5-8.

Oxalis. Bloom mid-spring to fall, depending on cultivar. Hardy in Zones 7-10, depending on cultivar.

Scilla. Bloom early spring to early summer, depending on cultivar. Hardy in Zones 4-10, depending on cultivar.

Cut Your Own Xmas Tree

Cutting down your own Christmas tree is a wonderful and traditional practice for many families. We can provide you with a list of Christmas Tree Farms in the Chicagoland area or you can check out our web site at: http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/trees

Hort Tips

November - Ornamental

Rake fallen leaves from grass. Leaves left on lawn over winter will smother and kill grass.

Plant spring flowering bulbs as long as the ground is not frozen.

Not cutting back perennials may help to protect the crown. If you mulch, go ahead and cut them back.

Cut down your own Christmas tree at a local farm. Call 773-233-0476 for a free list or check out our Christmas Trees & More site at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/trees

November - Edible

Place all weeds, leaves and disease-free dead plant material in the compost pile.

Clean and store all your garden equipment and tools. Fact sheet available.

Drain outdoor water pipes.

Kill insects by fall digging or tilling the garden. This exposes the insects to winter cold, reducing their numbers in next year's garden.

Store root crops - carrots, turnips and Jerusalem artichokes in the ground. Bury these crops under a heavy layer of straw.

Sign up for the Master Gardener Volunteer Program. Informational sheet and application available.

November - Indoors

Turn your houseplants to promote even growth.

On cold nights move houseplants back from icy windows to prevent chilling injury.

Keep potted overwintering geraniums in bright light and cool temperatures. Keep soils on the dry side.

December - Ornamental

Apply winter protection to perennials and roses after the ground has frozen. Fact sheet available.

Plan a backyard wildlife habitat. Fact sheet available.

Protect newly planted broadleaf evergreens, such as azaleas, boxwood and hollies with a burlap screen. Set screen stakes in ground before the ground freezes.

Mulch the root zones of azaleas and rhododendrons.

Protect newly planted trees from rabbits and mice gnawing. Put a loose cylinder of hardware cloth or poultry wire around the trunk base.

Winterize all power equipment before storage. Fact sheet available.

Move stone statuary indoors to prevent frost cracks.

Feed the birds. Factsheet available.

December - Edible

Cover strawberries with straw after the ground freezes.

Check out 2002 vegetable garden catalogs. Free listing of seed companies available.

December - Indoors

Reduce or eliminate fertilizer for houseplants until spring.

Keep succulents and cacti on the dry side.

Try indoor worm composting. Great for kids! Fact sheet available.

Make a Christmas candle arrangement. Fact sheet available.

January - Ornamental

Limbs damaged by ice or snow should be pruned to prevent bark from tearing.

Stamp down snow around young trees to keep mice from nesting under the snow.

Gently remove heavy snow from shrubs before it freezes.

January thaws may cause heaving of perennials. Firm the heaved plants into ground and replace mulch.

Plan a perennial garden. Fact sheet available.

Check rose cones to see that they are secure. Rose care fact sheet available.

Feed the birds. Fact sheet available.

Build a bird feeder. Fact sheet available.

Take a gardening class at Morton Arboretum, 630-968-0074 or Chicago Botanic Garden 847-835-5440.

Keep poinsettias away from cold drafts. You can try to bring them back to bloom next year. Fact sheet available.

Cut off the flower stalk of Christmas amaryllis after it is done flowering. Amaryllis care fact sheet available.

Buy a new houseplant. The Chinese evergreen with silver-splashed leaves will grow in very low light levels. Fact sheet available.

Let cacti go semi-dormant in the winter. Water only to avoid shriveling.

Repot houseplants if necessary. Fact sheet available.

Grow basil and parsley indoors. Fact sheet and free seeds available.

Check houseplants for insects.

Watch for indoor pantry pests. Fact sheet available.

January - Edible

Build a coldframe for an early start in your garden. Factsheet available

Check out the Winter Storm Resource Center site at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/winter for the latest information about winter storms.

February - Ornamental

Force branches of flowering shrubs and trees such as viburnums, forsythia, pussy willow, lilac and redbud. Select and cut 12 inch long branches with plump buds. The closer to their natural bloom time that you cut branches, the sooner they will open. Place branches in a container of warm water and re-cut stems one inch from the base.

Try red gladioli instead of roses for Valentine's Day. You'll save a few bucks.

Prune shade trees. Remove damaged or broken branches. Thin out growth that is too congested. Pruning sealants are not necessary.

Solve last year's lawn problems! Sign up for the University of Illinois' Lawn Care correspondence course. Call 773-233-0476 for more information.

Prune shrubs that bloom after June 15 now. Shrubs that flower before June 15 should be pruned immediately after flowering.

Learn how to select and buy roses that will fit into your garden. Fact sheet available.

Learn about three major causes for hosta decline in the garden. Fact sheet available.

Dormant oil can be applied to control scale insects on ornamental trees and shrubs if temperatures will stay above freezing for 24 hours. Spray before buds show green.

Be wary of fantastic grass ads. Zoysiagrass is adapted for southern locations. It will be dormant for much of the season in Northern Illinois and is a straw color for most of the spring and fall when other lawns are green.

Begin to fertilize houseplants as they show signs of growth.

February - Edible

Save plastic milk jugs for hot caps and orange juice cans for placing around newly planted transplants to control cutworms.

Start seeds of cool season vegetables such as broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower indoors. Fact sheet available.

Deer and rabbit problems? List of resistant plants available.

Out, Out, Damn Spot: Removing Holiday Food Stains

Holiday time is a hectic time and spills and stains are part of the season. So plan now to stock up on a few basic items to help with stain removal emergencies. You will need paper towels, pre-treatment solvent, a sponge, all-fabric bleach, chlorine bleach and an enzyme pre-soak.

The key to stain removal is immediate treatment. If guests are present and a spill occurs, use paper towels to absorb as much of the liquid as possible. Soak a sponge in cool water and use it to remove further traces of the spill. Later, you can get down to the business of final stain removal.

Test any stain remover on a corner of washable fabric first to see how it reacts. Whenever possible, treat stains from the back of the fabric. Place a spot downward on some paper towels so the stain will come off the fabric instead of going through it. After treatment, regular laundering will usually remove the last traces of the stain.

Treat stains as soon as possible after staining. The older the stain, the more difficult it will be to remove. All stain removal methods should be applied prior to laundering washable garments. Stains that have been laundered and dried are almost impossible to remove.

Here are some special methods for treating the most common holiday-type stains:

Sponge fruit stains, including cranberries, immediately with cool water.

Later soak in warm water and enzyme pre-soak. Then launder. If possible, launder again using chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric.

For gravy or milk stains, like eggnog, work a paste of detergent and water into the stain. If a greasy stain remains after laundering, sponge with a pre-treatment solvent.

Soak coffee or tea stains in warm water in an enzyme pre-soak or all-fabric bleach and launder.

For candle wax spots, scrape off as much wax as possible. Then place the stain between several layers of paper towels and press with a warm iron. Next place the stain face down on paper towels and sponge the back with pre-treatment solvent. Launder when dry. Note: If any color remains, re-launder with bleach that is safe for the fabric.

For lipstick spots, rub undiluted liquid detergent into the stain until the outline of stain is removed. If the stain remains after laundering, sponge with pre-treatment solvent.

Launder red wine stains with detergent in hottest water safe for the fabric. Do not use soap since soap could make stain permanent or harder to remove. Soak tough stains for 30 minutes in one quart of warm water and one teaspoon of enzyme pre-soak product. Removing old or set stains may require washing with bleach that is safe for the fabric. Always check for fabric color fastness. If the wine sugars are not removed, a brown stain will appear when the fabric is heated in the dryer or is ironed, as the sugar is caramelized.

Poultry fat (grease) - treat light stains with a pre-treatment spray stain remover and wait a couple of minutes for it to penetrate. Rub with a heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent. Launder. If color stain remains, launder with chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric, or use all-fabric bleach. Always test for color fastness before using bleach. Place heavy stains face down on clean paper towels. Apply dry cleaning fluid to the back of stain. Replace towels frequently. (Carefully read and follow instructions on the product package). Let air dry; rinse. Launder in hottest water safe for the fabric.

Possible Products

Bleaches

Hydrogen peroxide, which is the mildest bleach.
Powdered all-fabric bleaches (sodium perborate) (Biz, Borateem, Clorox 2, Purex, Snowy)
Liquid all-fabric bleaches (Clorox 2, Snowy, Vivid)
Liquid chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite) (Clorox, Hilex, Purex)

Detergents

Heavy-duty liquid detergents (All, Cheer, Era, Tide, Wisk)
Light-duty liquid detergents (Delicare, Ivory, Lux, Woolite)
(Many detergents contain enzyme pre-soaks. Biz contains enzymes. Read the labels).

Pre-treatment Products

Aerosol sprays petroleum-based solvent brands: (Clorox, Shout, Spray 'n Wash)
Pump-type sprays - detergent-based brands: (Clorox, Shout, Spray 'n Wash, Wisk-Away)
Squeeze bottle brands: (Clorox Stain Out, Shout, Spray 'n Wash)

No endorsement of companies or their products mentioned is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar companies or their products not mentioned.

Provided by Susan E. Taylor, Extension Educator, Consumer & Family Economics, Matteson Center

Sources: Fabric University - http://www.fabriclink.com/CARE.html

Turkey for the Holidays - Frequently Asked Questions

Are turkeys injected with growth hormones?

Turkeys grown for consumption in the U. S. are not given any steroids or hormones during the growing process. No hormones have been approved for use in turkeys. Genetic improvements as a result of breeding, better feed formulation and modern management practices are responsible for the larger turkeys produced today. Turkeys reach maturity between four and nine months of age. Older turkeys are tough, useless and not on the market for consumption.

Does eating turkey make you sleepy?

Several years ago the media released information concerning a compound in turkey breast that causes sleepiness. This compound named is the amino acid tryptophan, which is an important building block of protein. Tryptophan also acts as a precursor to niacin (a B vitamin) and serotonin. Serotonin is a compound formed in the brain that plays a role in sleep production and relaxation. Thus, the media concluded, an increase in dietary tryptophan might increase sleepiness.

But the amount of serotonin produced from the tryptophan consumed in an average three to four ounce serving of turkey would not be large enough to cause a significant increase in sleepiness. Rather than the turkey, that lazy feeling is probably due to the tremendous amount of calories from carbohydrates (starch and sugar) found in the traditional holiday meal.

Indulging in a full-fledged Thanksgiving feast with all the trimmings and Herculean-sized portions may also contribute to sleepiness. Simply put, overeating requires the output of a lot of energy. Then the digestion of all that food calls for the use of even more energy. Those who exercise dietary prudence will not experience extreme fatigue at meals-end. As for the rest of you, take a nap and please stop blaming the turkey.

Is stuffing the turkey the night before a good time saver?

No! It is a dangerous practice. Why? Harmful bacteria can multiply in the stuffing and cause food poisoning even when the stuffed bird is refrigerated. The cavity of the bird actually insulates the stuffing from the cold temperatures of the refrigerator and acts as an incubator for the harmful bacteria.

The ingredients for the stuffing can be prepared in advance and refrigerated separately. To save time chop vegetables such as onions and celery the night before. The safest method is to mix the ingredients and lightly stuff the turkey just prior to popping it into a preheated oven.

Once turkey is safely cooked, it doesn't matter how long you leave it out.

Wrong! According to the Center for Disease Control in Atlanta, each year the number of reported cases of foodborne illness (food poisoning) increases with the holiday season. Many people self-diagnose their illness as "stomach flu" and simply wait until it passes (no pun intended) without seeing a doctor. Although foodborne illness may produce flu-like symptoms, influenza or flu is an upper respiratory illness not a stomach and lower GI illness.

It is not a good idea to allow leftovers to set out for more than two hours. They will be safer and taste better if you refrigerate them as soon as possible and reheat thoroughly to 165 degrees or until steaming hot. Remove stuffing from the cavity, cut turkey off the bone and refrigerate or freeze all leftovers for later use.

The confusing part about the bacteria that cause foodborne illness is that they do not cause food spoilage. Food that looks and smells perfectly fine can cause illness if it has been mishandled.

The other misconception is that you may not get sick right away. It may be several days later, after the bacteria have had a chance to multiply before it starts to cause havoc on your system. By then most people are not likely to associate feeling queasy with eating the holiday leftovers.

One more point, everyone who ate the contaminated food may not get sick. Young children, senior citizens and people who already have a chronic illness are most vulnerable. Healthy adults with a strong immune system may be able to fight off illness and keep right on going. So, let us keep it safe and refrigerate.

A tom turkey is tougher than a hen.

False. The female turkey is called a hen and the male is called a tom. Most experts agree that a hen turkey is better than a tom, but I believe it is a matter of personal preference. Hens are generally smaller than tom turkeys of the same age. Hens weigh less than sixteen pounds while toms always weigh over sixteen pounds. Tom turkeys have larger bones and less edible portions, which may be reason for hens as preference. However, age, not gender is the determining factor for tenderness and all commercial turkeys are "young" and tender.

For everything you've always wanted to know about turkey, but didn't know who to ask, visit our website - Turkey for the Holidays at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/turkey

Holiday Candle Safety

It does not seem to matter which ethnic, cultural, religious group or geographic location is used, holidays worldwide are celebrated with feasting and the lighting of candles. Candlelight seems to make a spiritual connection with many ritualistic celebrations and ceremonies.

Everyone and everything seems to look and feel better by candlelight and as a result candles have made a tremendous resurgence in popularity lately. They are available in a wide variety of colors, shapes and scents with an equally wide assortment of holders. Keep these suggestions in mind when using candles this holiday season.

  • Pay attention to burning candles and limit candle burning time. Candles should be burned for about the same amount of time in hours as the diameter of the candle is in inches. For example, a candle measuring two inches in diameter should not burn for more than two hours.
  • When candles are allowed to burn too long, the pool of hot wax around the wick will become too deep, weakening the walls causing them to melt down and run onto surfaces. After the candle has burned for the allotted time or less, blow out the wick and allow the wax to cool completely before using again.
  • Always place candles on a heat resistant surface away from drafts, flammable fabrics and out of the reach of curious children.
  • A long wick means a larger flame that may also smoke and sputter. Use scissors to trim wicks often to prevent smoking and sputtering.
  • Heat and light can affect a candle's quality. Store candles in a cool place to keep them burning brightly. When not in use, freezer storage can reduce dripping of most tapered candles.

Health & Household Tips

Where to Get Information on Holiday Food Safety

There are several options. You can visit the University of Illinois Extension's "Turkey for the Holidays" web site which was written by Drusilla Banks and Ronald Wolford. The site gives information about safe cooking methods, carving, tasty recipes for side dishes, recommended storage time for leftovers, nutrition, humor and light-hearted fun about turkeys in "Turkey History & Lore", as well as links to other web sites and much more at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/ and click on Nutrition and Health.

The USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service has a Meat and Poultry Hotline which is operated by home economists who are ready to answer questions about turkey and other types of meat and poultry. Call the toll free service at 1-800-535-4555 from 10 am to 4 pm Eastern Time, Monday through Friday. Visit online at http://www.fsis.usda.gov/

What Is a Food Recall?

A food recall is a voluntary action by a manufacturer or distributor to protect the public from products that may cause health problems or possible death. The purpose of a recall is to remove meat or poultry from commerce when there is reason to believe it may be adulterated (unfit for human consumption) or misbranded (mislabeled).

Where can you find out about recalled food products? For information on recalls of meat and poultry products, consumers may contact the following:

  • Food Safety and Inspection Service Recall Information Center web site: http://www.fsis.usda.gov/OA/recalls/rec_intr.htm or call the Meat and Poultry Hotline at 1-800-535-4555
  • For information on recalls of all other foods, please contact FDA's Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition's Outreach and Information Center at 1-888-SAFEFOOD (1-888-723-3366).
  • Additional information is also available on the web site: http://www.foodsafety.gov

If you discover recalled products in your possession, you should return them to the point of purchase as soon as possible and notify the store management.

Get Down Tonight!

Down comforters, down vests, down-filled parkas and sleeping bags retain three times the warmth of their synthetic counterparts. Although it is a bit more expensive, down clothing wears well and with a little care and attention they can provide years of service, cozy warmth and extremely lightweight comfort.

Down is the fluffy, thick, under coating of birds and water fowl. It does not contain a quill, but, it grows in clusters of tiny filaments called plumules. Air trapped inside these clusters provides thermal warmth. One ounce of down contains thousands of clusters, which helps to account for the expense.

The greatest evil is in over washing and over cleaning down garments. Excessive soaps and dry cleaning solvents can strip down feathers of natural oils resulting in clumping and loss of quality.

Down and feather combinations are often used in less expensive garments and comforters. Check the manufacturer's label for special care instructions. To protect your investment, general care should include:

  • Spot cleaning stains promptly with mild soap and cool water.
  • Protecting pillows and comforters with a fabric covering that washes well.
  • Airing comforters and clothing outside on breezy sunny days during the off season.
  • Or, drape over chairs and use a fan. Airflow helps down to resettle; it also helps to evaporate trapped moisture and to retain fluffiness of the feathers.

Did You Know

...a diet rich in antioxidants (Vitamins C, E and beta carotene) can help protect your memory as you grow older? Research from Switzerland has found that healthy older people (60's) who scored highest on memory tests were those with the highest blood levels of Vitamin C and beta carotene. Also a group of Hawaiian men reduced memory losses by consuming foods high in Vitamins E and C while researchers at Tufts University found Vitamins B6 and B12 to be associated with good memory function. There is also increasing evidence that meeting Vitamin B12 needs may be better accomplished by use of over-the-counter supplements.

...the holiday season is a sensory experience? The sound of bells and traditional songs, the cold air nipping your face, colorful lights and bright decorations and most of all the smells of the holiday. Keep the air in your home fragrant and spicy by making a simmering potpourri. Thinly slice half a lemon and place in a pot with 3 cups water. Add 5 cinnamon sticks, 5 whole cloves and bring to a boil. Reduce to simmer. Keep the pot simmering while you're cooking or cleaning up.

...illness, injuries and death have been associated with the use of the herbal supplement comfrey? Preparations of comfrey, a fast-growing leafy plant are widely sold in the United States as teas, tablets, capsules, tinctures, medicinal poultices and lotions. Since 1985, at least seven cases of liver disease including one death have been associated with the use of commercially available oral comfrey products. Comfrey plants contain high levels of pyrrolizidine alkaloids according to the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) report. The FDA has informed makers of supplements with comfrey that the herb poses a serious health hazard. The agency "strongly recommends" that companies selling comfrey products have them removed from store shelves and warn consumers about continued use.

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