A lawn is an important part of the home landscape. An attractive, well-kept lawn adds value to a home by improving its appearance. In addition, lawn grasses reduce mud and dust, absorb noise, control erosion and produce oxygen. Proper establishment and maintenance are essential for any lawn to be healthy and look its best.

Planting a lawn entails selecting the turfgrass, selecting the method of establishment, properly preparing the soil, planting the turfgrass and performing post-planting maintenance.

Turfgrass Selection

Cool season turfgrasses - Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, fine fescues and creeping bentgrass are very commonly used in the Midwest, especially in the northern two thirds of the region. Cool season turfgrasses grow best when soil temperatures are between to 50 and 65 degrees F and when air temperatures are between 60 and 75 degrees F. These conditions occur most commonly in spring and autumn in the Midwest. Without irrigation, cool season turfgrasses may become dormant during the high temperatures of summer. These grasses are easily established by seeding.

Warm season turfgrasses - zoysiagrass, bermudagrass and buffalograss are sometimes used in the southern portion of the Midwest. Zoysiagrass and bermudagrass lack cold tolerance and are poor choices for growing in northern areas. Warm season grasses grow best when soil temperatures are between 70 and 90 degrees F and air temperatures are between 80 and 95 degrees F. Thus, these grasses grow actively during summer's heat. From mid-fall through mid-spring, these grasses are brown, dormant and unattractive. Many Midwesterners feel this dormant appearance is undesirable. Zoysiagrass and bermudagrass are most commonly established vegetatively by sod, plugs, sprigs or stolons. Buffalograss is usually started by seed.

Establishment Methods and Timing
Determining the lawn establishment method is an important first step in the establishment process. In the Midwest, lawns are normally established by seeding or sodding; zoysiagrass plugging is also used occasionally.

There are both advantages and disadvantages to seeding a lawn. A common method of establishing a lawn is seeding, which involves planting grass seed on a prepared seedbed.

The advantages of seeding are:

• the desired species or cultivars can be used;
• the turf plants develop in the environment in which they must ultimately survive;and;
• establishment usually costs less than for sodding or plugging.

The disadvantages of seeding a lawn are:

• the appropriate times for establishment are limited;
• the turf is usually slow to develop into a quality stand;
• reseeding areas with poor germination may be required;
• quality seed may be difficult to obtain in some areas;
• rain or irrigation may wash seeds off slopes;
• weed encroachment is often a problem; and
• a constantly moist seedbed is required during germination.

Sodding entails placing squares or strips of growing turfgrass and the adhering soil onto a final planting site. The strips or squares are tightly butted to one another to produce a complete cover of turfgrass. Kentucky bluegrass, creeping bentgrass, zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, buffalograss and occasionally tall fescue can be established by sodding.

The advantages of sodding a lawn are:

• an "instant" lawn is planted;
• sodded lawns can be safely trafficked sooner than seeded lawns;
• dust and mud are reduced;
• erosion control is achieved;
• sod can be planted any time during the growing season (provided the ground is not frozen and water is available); and
• good sod is weed free.

The disadvantages of sodding a lawn are:

• the cost is higher than for seeding;
• choice of turfgrass species and cultivars used in sod production is limited;
• sod is not produced in shaded environments;
• a large volume of water is required during establishment;
• incompatibilities between sod farm soils and soils at the planting site can cause sod to perform poorly;
• sod may shrink, allowing weeds to invade between pieces; and
• the speed of sod rooting changes with the season.

Although it appears there are fewer advantages than disadvantages to seeding a lawn, do not discount the importance of species/cultivar choices and development in their ultimate planting site. For example, obtaining perennial ryegrass or fine fescue sod will be difficult, perhaps impossible, in most areas of the region. If these species are desired in the lawn, seeding is the only way to establish them. In addition, soil incompatibility sometimes develops when sod is grown on soil that is different from that of the lawn area. Soil incompatibility can result in poorly rooted sod that has little tolerance to environmental or pest stresses. Thus, in many situations, the advantages of seeding may outweigh the advantages of sodding.

Plugging is sometimes used to establish zoysiagrass in the Midwest. Plugs are 2 to 4 inch diameter pieces of zoysiagrass with the adhering soil. They are planted 6 to 12 inches apart in a well-prepared plating bed and often take up to 3 years to fully establish and fill in completely.

Seed turfgrass lawns comprised of Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, fine fescues or tall fescue during spring or late summer and early fall. Late summer and early fall (August 15 to September 15 in central Illinois) is considered to be the best time. In the fall, weed competition is reduced, temperatures are appropriate for rapid growth and development and grass seedlings have plenty of time to establish a good root system before the following summer's heat. Spring (April in central Illinois) establishment can also be successful. It is important, however, that adequate irrigation be available during summer's heat.

A cool season lawn can be sodded in central Illinois anytime during the growing season provided adequate irrigation water is available. Sodding or plugging a warm season lawn in central Illinois is best done in late spring to early summer (May 15 to July 1).

Soil Preparation
Proper preparation of the plating site can reduce many soil drainage and aeration, pH and fertility problems that may not become evident until after the lawn is established. Correcting these problems after the turf is established is much more difficult than preventing their occurrence through proper site preparation, because the presence of the turf can limit your efforts. Thus, efforts to provide the best possible soil conditions are important to long-term success of a lawn.

The preparation steps (identical for seeding, sodding or plugging) are:

1. Control weeds at the planting site.
2. Rough grade the site and remove debris.
3. Conduct soil tests.
4. Amend the soil as necessary.
5. Work and thoroughly mix the amendments into the soil to a depth of six inches.
6. Fine grade the site.

Eliminating weeds, especially perennial grassy weeds, will reduce competition with developing turfgrasses. Herbicides are valuable for eliminating weeds prior to lawn establishment. Call us at 773-233-0476 for a current list of recommended lawn care chemicals.

After eliminating weeds from the site rough grade the area to facilitate surface drainage. Generally, a 1 to 2 percent slope (a drop of 1 or 2 feet for every 100 feet of run) away from buildings is adequate. Remove all debris brought to the surface by rough grading. Debris may include tree roots, stones and leftover materials from construction.

If topsoil is needed at the planting site, incorporate it into the existing soil during rough grading. The final depth of topsoil should be at least two inches. Avoid using topsoil taken from sites that have recently been treated with agricultural herbicides; these herbicides could be detrimental to turfgrass establishment.

Soil testing provides a valuable means to determine if soils can support turf growth. For a small fee, commercial testing laboratories wille valuate soil pH, phosphorus and potassium levels in a basic test. In addition, many other soil fertility and textural tests are available at an additional cost. Recommendations for corrective measures are also offered by many soil test laboratories.

Collect samples for testing during the growing season when soil temperatures are above 50 degrees F. Samples should be 2 to 4 inches deep and the same size in diameter. Combine several (at least eight) samples collected from all similar areas in a clean bucket. For instance, in a yard having both high, dry areas and low, wet areas, two composite samples, one from each unique area, are required. Remove any plants or plant parts present in the sample and submit about a cup of each sample for analysis.

Soil reaction, a measure of acidity/alkalinity, is indicated by the pH results. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 with readings below 7 being acidic, above 7 being alkaline and 7 being neutral. Based on the results of the pH test, amend soil to obtain a pH of 6 to 7 (slightly acidic). Slightly acidic soil reaction is desirable because it is at this pH that most soil nutrients are most available to growing plants. Add supplemental fertilizers as recommended by the soil test. It is easier to change soil before planting than after the grass is established.

Sulfur is used to make soil more acidic (that is, to lower pH). The amount to add depends on your soil type and the acidification desired. Consult Extension for help in calculating the sulfur required for your situation. Sulfur reacts slowly, so retest soil pH after 6 to 12 months to measure changes. Unfortunately, some soils resist acidification, making it virtually impossible to lower pH.

Ground agricultural limestone is used to make soil more basic (that is, to raise pH). Like sulfur, the amount to add depends on soil type and the desired change. Consult Extension for liming recommendations. To be effective, sulfur or limestone should be incorporated thoroughly into the soil by tilling. Avoid using slaked lime and burned lime because they are dangerous to handle.

Add phosphorus and potassium as recommended by your soil test. In the absence of a soil test, use 10 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer (or its equivalent) per 1,000 square feet to supply minimal fertility.

Amending heavy, clay soils or light, sandy soils with generous amounts of organic matter can improve the soil's drainage, aeration and nutrient holding capacity. If possible, apply a two inch layer of sphagnum peat moss, manure, compost or some other quality organic material to your soil's surface. Use well-rotted organic matter to avoid problems with weed seeds, diseases or other factors that can inhibit or detract from turf growth and development.

Work the amended soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches using a rotary tiller. This operation will uniformly incorporate all amendments. After rotary tilling the soil particles should be marble sized or smaller. Fine grade the site until it is smooth. Eliminate depressions that may collect moisture. Be sure that the slope away from buildings is 1 to 2 percent. Upon finishing this step, you are ready for seeding, sodding or plugging your lawn.

Planting - Seeding
The seed label will provide valuable information about the gras seed. Information on the label includes the names(s) of the turfgrass species and cultivars present in the package, seed purity, seed germination percentage, crop seed content, amount of inert matter, weed seed content, lot number and last testing date. In general, select high quality seed of turfgrass cultivars recommended by University of Illinois Extension. Record the seed lot number in case there are problems with the seed. This information will assist the vendor or producer to solve problems with seed should they arise.

Providing enough seed to insure adequate coverage is important to seeding success, especially for grasses with a bunch growth habit. For lawn establishment using cool season species, provide a minimum of 10 to 20 seeds per square inch. Every seed will not produce a grass plant; a healthy, mature lawn usually averages six to eight turf plants per square inch.

Different turfgrasses have different seeding rates. These rates vary according to the size and weight of turfgrass seed. For instance, Kentucky bluegrass has a small seed and a high seed count per pound. On the other hand, perennial ryegrass has a large seed and a lower count per pound. Avoid excessive seeding rates that can produce crowded, weak, unthrifty plants and increase seedling disease invasion. In addition, excessive seeding wastes seed and money.

Suggested Seeding Rates for Lawn Grasses

Species in Seed Mix Rate	(lbs./1,000 sq. ft.)
Kentucky bluegrass blend	1 to 3
Kentucky bluegrass/perennial ryegrass mix	(80:20) 3 to 4
Kentucky bluegrass/fine fescue mix	(50:50) 3 to 5
Tall fescue blend	6 to 9

After choosing the turfgrass and determining the seeding rate, be sure to distribute the seed uniformly over the planting area. Use a broadcast or drop spreader. It is advisable to apply half the seed in one direction, such as north to south and then the other half in a different direction, such as east to west, to uniformly cover the entire area.

After the seed is in place, there are two activities that are crucial to successful turf establishment. The first is making sure there is a good seed to soil contact. Accomplish this task by using a lawn rake to lightly mix the seed into the upper 1/4 inch soil.

Follow the raking with a light rolling to produce a firm seed bed. A light rolling can be accomplished by using an empty water-ballast roller. Rolling not only increases seed to soil contact, but firms the seedbed and slows drying of the soil.

Mulch with a thin layer of clean straw to prevent drying. Don't apply mulch heavily; you should be able to see soil beneath it. Usually 35 to 50 pounds per 1000 square feet (about one bale) is adequate. You do not have to remove the straw after the grass seed germinates. Grass seedlings will grow up through the light straw layer and gradually cover it as the straw decomposes. Raking off the straw would injure the young grass seedlings.

The second activity crucial to seed establishment success is to make sure adequate water is available throughout the germination process. At the time of planting, irrigate frequently and lightly, wetting the upper 1/2 inch of soil. Continue watering during the period of germination. Water less frequently, but more thoroughly and deeply, as grass seedlings mature.

Average germination times ( see table )vary according to the turfgrass species and the conditions under which germination takes place. Soil temperatures between 60 and 85 degrees F for cool season grasses and 70 and 90 degrees F for warm season grasses, along with a constantly moist seed bed, result in the quickest germination.

Turfgrass	Average germination time (in days) under ideal growing conditions
Kentucky bluegrass	10 to 30
Perennial ryegrass	3 to 10
Tall fescue	7 to 14
Fine-leaf fescues	7 to 14

Sodding

If possible, choose sod grown on soils similar to the soils of the planting site or the sod may not "knit" to the soil properly and will gradually decline due to shallow rooting. Be sure to select fresh sod and plant immediately after purchase.

Sod often comes in 18 inch wide strips that are 6 feet long. Look for sod with a thin soil layer – it will root faster and be easier to install due to its lighter weight. Most sod is harvested at a soil depth of 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

Purchase fresh, healthy sod from a reputable dealer. Plant sod in a brick-like pattern with sod edges tightly butting up to one another. Do not stretch sod – it will shrink as it dries allowing weed invasion between pieces. On slopes it may be necessary to use small wooden pegs to help keep sod in place until it roots. Under good conditions sod will begin to root within 14 days.

Using a lightweight roller, roll sod immediately after laying to insure close soil contact. Initially irrigate heavily to make sure water penetrates beneath the freshly installed sod and wet the soil. Until sod is established, continue to irrigate frequently, making sure soil is dampened to encourage root development.

Post-Planting Care

Seeded Lawns
When new seedlings have reached a height of two inches, they may benefit from a fertilizer application. Apply 1/2 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet (if applying 10-10-10, use 5 pounds per 1,000 square feet). Water thoroughly after fertilizing. Begin mowing as turf grows using the "1/3" rule, that is, never remove more than one-third of the grass blades at any mowing. For instance, most of the cool season lawn grasses should be maintained at 2 to 3 inches. Mow these grasses when they reach 3 to 4.5 inches.

Limit heavy trafficking during the first growing season. The tender grass seedlings are subject to damage and frequently irrigated soils are easily compacted.

It may be necessary to control annual grassy weeds in spring seedings. Only one preemergence herbicide, Tupersan (siduron), can be safely applied to control these weeds at planting time. It is part of some weed and feed products containing starter fertilizer.

Post-emergence broadleaf herbicide applications should not be made to new turf until it has been mowed at least three times. If portions of a lawn need to be reseeded after herbicide applications, wait at least 30 days. Be sure to read, understand and follow the label instructions.

Sodded Lawns
Fertilize sod using a normal fertilization schedule. For instance, if you install sod in July and your normal fertilization schedule is May, June, September and November, the first fertilization for the sod would be in September.

Mow the new sod at the desired height using the "1/3" rule: when the grass needs cutting, remove no more than one-third of the height in a single mowing.

After the sod has knit down to the soil, core aerification can help turf develop an increased number of deeper growing roots. Core aerify Kentucky bluegrass sod in the spring or fall following installation. Zoysiagrass sod can be core aerified early in the summer following planting.

Whether you establish a lawn by seed, sod or plugs, the preparation steps are the same. Perennial weeds should be eliminated, the area should be graded, the soil should be amended and smoothed, and the best available turfgrass should be chosen for your specific needs. Then the guidelines for seeding and sodding should be followed. The final requirement is to provide adequate moisture for good establishment of the turfgrass. By establishing a healthy, vigorous turf on a properly prepared site, you will be well on your way to having an attractive lawn.

Source: Tom Voigt, Turfgrass, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign.

Trying to maintain a thick, healthy lawn in a shady, "light-challenged" location is a losing proposition. Grass won't spread well and where the lawn is weak and thin, other better adapted plants are sure to move in – plant such as moss or the much maligned and dreaded creeping charlie.

Why not avoid the frustration of trying to grow good grass in the shade? You can turn your landscaping "sow's ear" into a shade garden "silk purse" that will provide you with gratification rather than aggravation. But before making any drastic changes, first assess how you use the shady portions of your yard.

If you're content to replace the lawn with beds of shrubbery, woodland wildflowers, shade-tolerant perennials such as ferns and hosta and expanses of interesting groundcovers, you should have no difficulty...except for the challenge of deciding which combination of plants you prefer.

One of the toughest situations to deal with, however, is the need to walk about freely in the shaded area. Grass is the only hardy groundcover (with the possible exception of creeping charlie) that can withstand regular foot traffic. Other groundcovers might bounce back from dogs or cats running through them occasionally, but human footsteps will smash them down, often irreparably.

If your family includes young children who must use the shaded parts of your yard as a play area, you might re-think your attitude towards creeping charlie. It is really a fine, low-maintenance groundcover for all but the most densely shaded locations. It needs mowing only two or three times over the summer...and it can bounce back from a fair amount of foot traffic. (If only it would stay in its place!)

Another option would be to spread a thick layer of shredded bark in the children's play area. Bark mulch compresses over time, decomposing where it contacts the soil, so you'll have to add more every couple of years. But shredded bark makes a resilient, safe surface for romping around. You can also use it to create footpaths and define spaces for benches or other garden furniture.

Now, how do you go about turning that dismal shady lawn into an inviting shady garden? Begin by observing existing shade gardens and check out some of the larger garden centers in the Chicagoland area. Most offer many annuals & perennials for shade.

Most shade-tolerant flowering perennials are best suited for light, rather than heavy shade. And they're rarely as flamboyant as sun-loving flowers. Make up for this lack of color by planting interesting combinations of foliage. Contrast dark green leaves with lighter ones or foliage that's variegated green and white. Contrast lacy leaves with big, bold ones. You'll be amazed at how many choices you have.

Finally look at your new shade garden as a work in progress. It won't happen all at once. Plan to experiment with different plants, then build on your successes each year. After giving up the battle to grow grass in shade, you'll soon recognize shade for the landscape asset it really is.

A few suggested plants for shade:

Groudcovers:	Flowering Perennials:
barrenwort	astilbe
ferns	bleeding heart
deadnettle	columbine
ginger (wild & European)	coral bells
lily-of-the-valley	daylily
Pachysandra (Japanese spurge)	hosta lily
periwinkle	meadowsweet
wild violets	monarda (beebalm)
	Trollius (globe flower)
Woodland Wildflowers:
bellwort	Jacob's ladder
bloodroot	lungwort
cardinal flower	meadowrue
Dutchman's breetches	rue anemone
foam flower	snakeroot, white or black
fringed bleeding heart	Solomon's seal
harebells	spring beauty
hepatica	trillium
jack-in-the-pulpit	Virginia bluebells
	wild columbine
Shrubs:	Annuals for light shade:
alpine currant	balsam
arborvitae	begonias (tuberous and wax)
balsam fir	browallia
chokeberry	coleus
dogwood	fuchsia
juneberry	impatiens
snowball hydrangea	mimulus
viburnum	torenia
winged euonymus	vinca

Source: University of Minnesota Extension

In February the EPA announced that the wood treating industry has announced a voluntary decision to move consumer use of treated lumber products away from a variety of pressure-treated wood that contains arsenic by December 31, 2003, in favor of new alternative wood preservatives.

What uses of CCA (chromated copper arsenate)-treated wood are affected by this transition?

After December 31, 2003, wood treaters will no longer be able to use CCA to treat wood intended for use in decks, picnic tables, landscaping timbers, gazebos, residential fencing, patios, walkways/boardwalks and play-structures. Wood treated prior to this date, however, can still be used in residential settings. Already built structures containing CCA treated wood are not affected by this action.

Does CCA treated wood present any health risks to me or my family?

EPA has not concluded that CCA treated wood poses any unreasonable risk to the public or the environment. Nevertheless, arsenic is a known human carcinogen and, thus, the Agency believes that any reduction in the levels of potential exposure to arsenic is desirable. EPA believes that the voluntary transition to non-arsenical containing wood preservatives for residential sites is a responsible action by the registrants.

What steps can parents take to reduce their family's potential exposure to CCA?

As a responsible parent, you manage a wide range of risks in your child's environment. Here are some common sense tips for minimizing unnecessary exposure to CCA:

• Treated wood should never be burned in open fires, stoves, fireplaces or residential boilers.
• Always wash hands thoroughly after contact with any wood, especially prior to eating and drinking.
• Food should not come into direct contact with any treated wood.
• Always follow the precautions outlined in EPA's Consumer Safety Information Sheet before working with CCA treated wood.

Additional measures that may be taken include the following:

• Apply a coating product to pressure-treated wood on a regular basis. Some studies suggest that this can reduce the amount of CCA that leaches from treated wood.
• When conducting new construction or repairs, consider the range of alternatives to CCA-treated wood. These alternatives include both non-arsenical chemical wood preservatives, as well as other wood and non-wood. Consult your local home improvement store for more information about available alternatives.

Should I replace my CCA-treated deck or play-set?

EPA does not recommend tht consumers replace or remove existing structures made with CCA treated wood or the soil surrounding those structures. Concerned citizens may want to take extra precautions, however, by applying a coating to exposed surfaces on a regular basis.

What types of coatings are most effective?

While available data are very limited, some studies suggest that applying certain penetrating coatings (e.g., oil-based, semi-transparent stains) on a regular basis (e.g., once per year or every other year depending upon wear and weathering) may reduce the migration of wood preservative chemicals from CCA-treated wood. In selecting a finish, consumers should be aware that, in some cases, "film-forming" or non-penetrating stains (e.g., latex semitransparent, latex opaque and oil-based opaque stains) on outdoor surfaces such as decks and fences are not recommended, as subsequent peeling and flaking may ultimately have an impact on durability as well as exposure to the preservatives in the wood. Talk with your local hardware store about available coatings.

How can I tell if my deck has been constructed with CCA-treated wood?

Freshly treated wood, if not coated, has a greenish tint, which fades over time. As a practical matter, CCA has been the principal chemical used to treat wood for decks and other outdoor uses around the home. Generally, if your deck has not been constructed with redwood or cedar, them most likely the deck was constructed with CCA-treated wood. Alternatively, if you know who constructed the deck, you may want to call and ask.

What alternatives to CCA-treated wood will be available?

A number of preservatives have been registered by EPA and wood treated with these preservatives are expected to be available in the marketplace. In addition, untreated wood (e.g., cedar and redwood) and non-wood alternatives, such as plastics, metal and composite materials are available. Your local hardware store or lumberyard can provide more information about available alternatives.

For a factsheet on "Questions & Answers: What You Need to Know About Wood Pressure Treated with Chromated Copper Arsenate" call 773-233-0476 or check out the following web site: http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/chemicals/ cca_qa.htm

After spending this winter and much of this weird spring cooped up indoors, we all know what it's like to enjoy the fresh air outdoors. If your houseplants had feelings and could communicate them to you,
they'd probably plead for an outdoor summer vacation, too.

Why not try it? Warm humid air, soft rains and gentle breezes and
plenty of reflected light combine to create growing conditions far superior to any you can provide indoors. If all goes well, your plants will develop vigorous new growth and look livelier and more robust by the end of the season.

To accomplish this you should:

• Know which plants can benefit from being outdoors,
• Choose an appropriate location for them.
• Alter your routine care to reflect outdoor conditions.
• Bring houseplants back indoors before it's too cool.

Not all plants do well outdoors. In hot windy weather some plants growing in small pots can dry faster than you may be willing or able to water them. Baby's tears and others that wilt rapidly are particularly vulnerable.

Houseplants with velvety or "hairy" leaves such as African violets or purple passion may fall prey to foliar problems as a result of water that's trapped on their leaves.

You may prefer not to put out plants with large leaves such as selloum philodendrons, fiddle leaf philodendrons, rubber trees or diffenbachias. They're vulnerable to damage from heavy rainfall or hail, which may tear their foliage. If you do not put them outdoors, set them back along the inner wall of a porch or balcony with a ceiling overhead for protection.

Plants with smaller leaves usually do fine in more exposed locations. But you still must protect them from direct sun, mid-morning to mid-afternoon. Their leaves aren't used to such high light levels and will sunburn easily. Unlike human skin, once plant tissue burns, it can't regenerate.

Earlier and later in the day when the sun sits lower in the sky, direct sunlight won't harm them. The dappled shade found beneath branches of a large tree is just about perfect; the north side of a house or garage would work, too.

You could acclimate your plants to higher light by moving them gradually into brighter locations. But several weeks before bringing them back indoors, you'd have to reverse the process to compensate for winter's shorter days and lower light levels. It's probably better to leave them in dappled light all summer. It's certainly easier!

If you put your houseplants outdoors, check them frequently to see if they need water. Wind and heat dry them more rapidly than indoor conditions. Plants in terra cotta clay pots dry fastest because moisture evaporates right through the container walls.

When plants grow rapidly they require additional fertilizer. Continue to mix houseplant fertilizer 1/2 strength, but apply it every two or three weeks while your plants your plants are outdoors.

Plan to transplant the most vigorously growing plants into larger containers several weeks before you're ready to bring them indoors. That way they won't have to undergo two stressful transitions at once.

Don't wait till frost threatens to bring your houseplants in. As soon as night temperatures drop regularly into the mid 50's inspect them for insects, wash them carefully and put them in your brightest indoor spot for two or three weeks before moving them back to their original locations.

There's no need to spray your houseplants with insecticide unless you find harmful insects present after you've washed them. But do keep an eye on them, just in case.

Now is a good time to starting selecting those vegetables for your garden. I have listed the 2002 All-America Selection Award Winners (AAS) Vegetable choices to help you make quality selections. AAS was formed to encourage seed companies to test new varieties in trial gardens throughout the United States and Canada. They are as follows:

Basil 'Magical Michael'
An ornamental, edible sweet basil with a clearly refined plant size and shape, 'Magical Michael' plants are uniform and reliably 15 inches tall and 16 to 17 inches wide. This uniformity is rare in sweet basil plants. The lush aromatic, green leaves can be harvested within 30 days of transplanting and are rich in essential oils for cooking. Plants may flower when mature in about 80 to 90 days from seed. The small flowers are a curiosity since the calices are purple and corollas white. They are attractive for use as a garnish, adding color to any salad.

Cucumber 'Diva'
Sweet flavor and high yield describe the improved qualities of 'Diva.' The fruit will be sweet, non-bitter with a crisp texture when harvested at 4 to 5 inches. Normally seedless, a few seeds may grow if pollinated by other cuke plants. 'Diva' produces all female flowers and does not require pollen to set fruit. These traits result in high yields. Expect mature cukes in about 58 days from sowing seed in warm soil. Plants are resistant to scab and tolerant to powdery and downy mildews. 'Diva' is the only slicing cucumber you need to grow in your garden.

'Orange Smoothie' Pumpkin F1
Children will be infatuated with 'Orange Smoothie' pumpkins. The dark orange, smooth skin is ideal for painting Halloween faces. The size is desirable for young hands, weighing 5 to 8 pounds with a strong, long handle. 'Orange Smoothie' pumpkins will mature early, in about 90 days from sowing seed. Another benefit is the semi-determinate habit requiring less space in the garden. Easy-to-grow from seed or started plants, 'Orange Smoothie' is an all-around great pumpkin for carving, painting, decorating and even the meat is sweet for homemade pumpkin pie.

'Sorcerer' Pumpkin F1
'Sorcer' is a full sized pumpkin, weighing 15 to 22 pounds but produced on a compact vine reaching only 10 feet. The dark orange pumpkins are a deep round shape sporting strong, long handles. 'Sorcerer' pumpkins will mature in about 100 days from sowing seed. Good crown set can be expected with overall high yielding plants. 'Sorcerer' can be grown using normal pumpkin culture. Pumpkins can be carved, painted or used for pie filling.

'Cornell's Bush Delicata' Winter Squash
If you have never eaten a Delicata squash, this is the one to grow to eat. The orange flesh color indicates it is rich in Vitamin A. The sweet flesh is fine textured without coarse strings. Butter and brown sugar are optional when eating 'Cornell's Bush Delicata' squash because it is so sweet. The squash have a long shelf life, meaning you can enjoy eating the squash into the winter months. About 100 days from sowing to harvest, the tolerance to powdery mildew will increase overall yield. The compact habit requires less garden space. The mature bush will send out 4 to 6 foot runners later in the season.

For further information about finding All America Selections check their web site at: www.aaswinners.com

March

• Rest

April

• Clean up debris from winter.
• Cultivation (aerification, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing.
• Vertical mowing or dethatching (lawn should be actively growing)
• Overseeding, establishment (lat in month; late summer is better)
• Preemergence annual weed (i.e. crabgrass) control (or early May)

May

• Cultivation (aerification, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing.
• Preemergence annual weed (i.e. crabgrass) control (or late April)
• Fertilization (1 pound of nitrogen/1,000 square feet)
• Postemergence broadleaf weed (i.e. dandelions) control to actively growing weeds.
• Overseeding, establishment (early in month; late summer is better).

June

• Postemergence broadleaf weed control (avoid hot weather)
• Light fertilization (with irrigation); controlled release nitrogen suggested.
• Monitor for pests/problems

Gypsy moths spread from infested to uninfested areas by hitching rides or by being transported by people. The egg masses and other life stages can be found on cars, recreational vehicles, firewood, nursery stock, children's outdoor toys and outdoor household furniture. It is important that these types of items be thoroughly inspected before returning home to Illinois from a Gypsy moth infested area.

The severity of a Gypsy moth invasion cannot be understated as continued defoliation of home, landscapes, urban parks and recreational areas may have a significant economic impact on the state by reducing home values and tourism. Gypsy moth is a federal and state regulated pest, which means that in Illinois the Illinois Department of Agriculture is primarily responsible for monitoring and implementing control efforts in areas infested with gypsy moth.

Biology
Gypsy moth undergoes four developmental life stages; these are the egg, larva (caterpillar), pupa and adult. Gypsy moth females lay between 500 to 1000 eggs in sheltered areas such as underneath the bark of trees. The eggs are covered with a dense mass of tan or buff-colored hairs. The egg mass is approximately 1.5 inches long and 0.75 inches wide. The eggs are the overwintering stage of the insect. Eggs are attached to trees, houses or any outdoor objects. The eggs hatch in spring (April) into caterpillars.

Gypsy moth caterpillars are easy to identify because they possess characteristics not found on other leaf-feeding caterpillars. They have five pairs of blue dots followed by six pairs of red dots lining the back. In addition, they are dark colored and covered with hairs. Young caterpillars primarily feed during the day whereas the older caterpillars feed at night. When present in large numbers, the older caterpillars feed day and night. Young caterpillars spread to new locations by crawling to the tops of trees, where they spin a silken thread and are caught on wind currents. Older caterpillars are approximately 1.5 to 2 inches long. Gypsy moth caterpillars do not produce a web, which distinguishes it from web-making caterpillars such as the Eastern tent caterpillar and the fall webworm. The Gypsy moth larval stage lasts approximately seven weeks.

In early summer (June to early July), Gypsy moth caterpillars enter a pupal or transitional stage. The pupae are dark brown, shell-like cases approximately two inches long and covered with hairs. They are primarily located in sheltered areas such as tree bark crevices or leaf litter. Adult Gypsy moths emerge from the pupae in 10 to 14 days. They are present from July into August. Females have white to cream-colored wings, a tan body and a two inch wingspan. Female gypsy moths cannot fly. Males, which are smaller than females, with a 1.5 inch wingspan, are dark-brown and have feathery antennae. Both the adult female and male can be identified by the inverted V-shape that points to a dot on the wings.

Gypsy moth has only one generation per year. Gypsy moth populations will go through cycles in which the populations will increase for several years then decline and then increase again. Area-wide outbreaks can occur for up to 10 years, but generally population densities in localized areas remain high for two to three years.

Damage
The larva or caterpillar is the damaging stage as it eats the leaves of trees in the spring. They can consume tremendous amounts of leaf material. For example, Gypsy moth larvae can consume as much as one square foot of leaves per day. As a result, they produce a large amount of fecal (frass) material. When populations reach outbreak proportions, the caterpillars can completely defoliate host trees over a wide geographic area. Consistent or repeated defoliation over several years can have devastating effects, often leading to tree stress and death.

Gypsy moths have a wide host-range, which includes oak, crabapple, linden, poplar, beech, willow, birch, sweetgum, serviceberry and hawthorn. Trees less susceptible to attack by Gypsy moth ar ash, sycamore, indian bean, honeylocust, dogwood, junipers, yew, lilac, arborvitae, arrowwood and tulip tree.

Management
First of all, it is important to understand that gypsy moth in the USA is here to stay. It will not be eradicated from this country. However, there is no need to panic once Gypsy moth has been detected in a given area. The only way to manage Gypsy moths is to arrest their migration. The main strategy to manage Gypsy moth movement is called Slow-The-Spread (STS), which is designed to delay the amount of new territory invaded through trapping and applying insecticides. In order to further prevent the spread, before moving out of an infested area, be sure to visually inspect all vehicles and outdoor items to prevent transporting Gypsy moths to uninfested areas. Movement of Gypsy moth throughout Illinois will depend on geographic distribution of host plants. Artificial barriers such as corn and soybean fields may slow the spread of Gypsy moth.

In order to determine the spread of Gypsy moth federal and state regulatory agencies conduct comprehensive Gypsy moth trapping programs. Delta or milk carton traps, which vary in color from green, orange or brown are distributed within areas known to have Gypsy moth and at the leading edge of an infestation to track its spread. The traps are baited with a lure, which is a natural pheromone that attracts the male Gypsy moth. This provides a means to determine the potential infestation of an area and if a quarantine should be implemented. Do not disturb or move Gypsy moth traps. Do not put out your own Gypsy moth traps unless your area is generally infested. The capture of male Gypsy moths in trap as does not necessarily mean that Gypsy moths have become established. When large number of gypsy moths are detected in traps, then an area may be designated as quarantined.

Climatic factors such as temperature may influence Gypsy moth populations. The severity of cold during the winter can have an impact on the survival of Gypsy moth eggs. A temperature of -20°F is lethal to overwintering eggs. Eggs that are laid higher up on the bark of trees suffer higher mortality than eggs located near the ground. This probably has to do with the amount of soil warmth and snow cover. Snow acts to insulate eggs from cold temperatures.

Proper cultural practices such as watering and fertility will assist trees in overcoming gypsy moth feeding. Healthy trees are able to produce an abundance of chemicals, such a phenols, in their leaves. When fed upon by caterpillars this can reduce their size and, consequently, the size of the female's egg mass. Incorporating a diversity of new plantings, especially plants less susceptible to Gypsy moth, into landscapes, parks and recreational areas may minimize the impact of Gypsy moths.

Egg removal may greatly reduce the number of caterpillars. Remove egg masses by scraping them off trees or other objects and dropping them into a solution of soapy water. A hard spray of water can be used to knock eggs off of trees. Wrapping burlap near the base of trees will trap females as they look for a place to lay eggs.

For recommendations on managing Gypsy moth with insecticides consult your local University of Illinois Extension office. Treating localized infestations with an insecticide will slow the spread. However, this only temporarily reduces the number of caterpillars. Pet control materials are best applied when the caterpillars are small. This enhances the effectiveness of these materials, as they are less effective as caterpillars increase in size. One of the commonly used pest control materials for managing Gypsy moth is the bacterium, Bacilus thuringiensis (Bt). B. thuringiensis must be consumed in order to kill Gypsy moth larvae. The best time to spray with Bt is just after egg hatch when bridal wreath spirea is in bloom. The young caterpillars are much more susceptible to Bt than older, larger caterpillars. B. thuringiensis is not harmful to beneficial organisms such as honeybees.

For additional information on Gypsy moth contact your local University of Illinois Extension office.

Source: Raymond A. Cloyd & Philip L. Nixon, University of Illinois, Urbana, in cooperation with the Illinois Natural History Survey.

Houseplants
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/houseplants/
Learn how to choose and care for a variety of popular houseplants.

Water Gardening
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/watergarden/
Learn about aquatic plant selection, cultivation and container water gardening.

A New Way to Keep the Doctor Away!
The old saying, "an apple a day, keeps the doctor away" is on the verge of changing to "eat your cole slaw today and keep the doctor away." The recent flurry of information that has swept across this country on the healthful benefits from eating fruits and vegetables has gone beyond our traditional understanding of the vitamins and minerals they provide. Many of the fruits and vegetables that Mom told us to eat because they were good for you, have now taken on a new level of "functionality."

The new term, "functional food," refers to a food item that contains a dietary ingredient that may have health attributes beyond normal nutritional value. Many fruits and vegetables have been identified as having naturally occurring compounds that prevent oxidative damage to our cells which can lead to a precancerous or cancerous condition. These compounds re commonly referred to as "nutraceuticals" or "phytonutrients."

The evolution of vegetable production methods and development of new varieties focused on improved efficiency and aesthetics, better taste or disease resistance. Any changes that may have occurred in nutraceutical concentrations as a result, happened by coincidence. Increased consumer awareness regarding additional health benefits from eating vegetables may lad to a new market demand. Many of the vegetable crops in the Cruciferae family that includes crops like broccoli, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts are believed to offer the consumer, this kind of chemo-prevention.

A new research program initiated at the University of Minnesota has centered on the development of a method to consistently produce vegetable crops with significant cancer chemo-preventive properties. This project brings together horticulturists, plant physiologists, food scientists and biomedical scientists at the University of Minnesota, along with local and national producer and consumer groups to develop and introduce a new type of vegetable crop to the market. Widespread adoption by producers and consumers may ultimately lead to improved human health and greater profitability.

Check out http://sroc.coafes.umn.edu for further updates and other research projects currently conducted in horticulture.
Source: University of Minnesota Extension

Ants in Lawns
There are many species of ants that occur in lawns and other turfgrass areas. Most ants do not require controls and are considered beneficial. The ants found in Illinois lawns are not biting or stinging pests. The fire ants of the southern. U. S., well known for their aggressive behavior and painful stings, are not present in Illinois.

Ants in the lawn occasionally become a nuisance by constructing mounds or small hills in the lawn or by invading the home in search of food. These mounds may be unsightly, may cause lawn unevenness, and if large, may smother out the surrounding grass.

To avoid some of the worst anthill activity rake or "wash" (with a water stream from the garden hose) on a regular and frequent basis anthills that appear above the grass tops. The need for such maintenance will be greatest during periods of prolific ant nesting activity (such as during periods of wet spring weather). If necessary, you can spot treat anthills with an insecticide such as diazinon. Rake the anthill flat and sprinkle granules onto the soil surface or drench the mound area with diluted solution. Read and carefully follow instructions on the insecticide label. If granules were used, rake the area lightly after application. Irrigate the mound area to move the insecticide ingredient into the soil and away from the surface where it may be exposed to people, pets ro wildlife. Keep children and pets away from the treated area until the grass has dried.

Pest control operators or lawn care professional can also treat ant mounds. Overall lawn treatments specifically for ant colonies are seldom necessary.

Source: Iowa State University

Growing Giant Pumpkins
Few vegetables have the ability to grow to the enormous sizes of pumpkins and squashes. The size of world champion pumpkins is staggering. Giant pumpkins have been recorded with a circumference of greater than 10 feet or weigh over one thousand pounds. While attaining a half-ton jack-o-lantern may not be your goal, growing giant pumpkins is certainly fun for many gardeners. With proper cultivar selection and diligent care, growing giant pumpkins can be rewarding.

Selecting the right cultivar for planting is of the utmost importance. The cultivar name is often a dead giveaway to its ultimate size. Select cultivars such as 'Dill's Atlantic Giant,''Prizewinner,''Big Max' or 'Big Moon'. Some of these varieties are not actually pumpkins at all but pumpkin-like squash. These giant pumpkin cultivars are also not normally suitable for cooking.

As with any planting, selecting and preparing the planting site is critical. Make sure the site is in full sun with well-drained soil. Prepare the soil by adding a generous amount of well-rotted manure mixed with the garden soil.

Pumpkins require a long growing season and warm soils. Seeds can be started indoors two to three weeks before the last expected frost or directly seeded into the garden after the danger of frost has past. Two or three seeds are planted in each hill or pot. Later when the first true leaves appear, thin to one plant per pot or hill. If you start the seeds indoors, be sure to harden the seedlings to outdoor conditions for a week before planting. Initially, place the seedlings in a shady, protected location and gradually expose them to longer periods of sunlight. The seedlings may need occasional protection from winds and cool nights in the beginning of the season.

For giant pumpkins be sure to provide ample space for growth. Twenty to twenty-five feet between plants is not uncommon for world champion pumpkins.

As the pumpkins grow, a consistent supply of water and fertilizer is essential. Pumpkin plants require one inch of water per week. Watering in the morning is best since it allows the foliage to dry during the day and thus prevent the possibility of disease. A weekly addition of a complete fertilizer is also needed. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers as they may inhibit flower initiation or fruit growth. There are as many fertilizer regimes as there are pumpkin varieties. Some individuals use high phosphorus fertilizers before and after flowering while others use organic type fertilizers like bone meal and fish emulsion continuously. Use a regime most convenient for you and your garden.

When the baby pumpkins appear, select two or three fruits on separate runners on each plant. Remove all other fruit that forms. This ensures that all the vine's energy will go to the fruit left on the vine. The fruit will rapidly gain weight and size. It can be fun to take weekly measurements and record the progress. The trick is to keep the pumpkins growing for as long as possible.

With dedication and a regular care you can grow giant pumpkins or squashes. In fact, you might want to get that "Big Pumpkin" form filled out for the county or state fair.
Source: Iowa State University

Earthworms in Lawns
The activity of earthworms, especially "night crawlers" often contributes to a rough and bumpy lawn surface that can be both annoying and dangerous. Another "problem" associated with earthworms is the movement of large numbers to places where they are unwanted (such as, on sidewalks or patios and in swimming pools).

To hear the passion with which people seek a "control" for earthworms you could believe that worms are the worst pests on earth (or more appropriately, in earth). Of course, earthworms are beneficial and valuable to the overall health and tilth of the lawn. Their activity improves the growing environment by increasing air and water movement in the soil and they help decompose thatch. They also help alleviate compaction.

There are no pesticides labeled for the control of earthworms. Although some pesticides and fertilizers are known to have an impact on earthworms, none can be recommended as a control. Compared to the pesticides (especially insecticides) used one or two decades ago, today's pesticides have relatively little impact on earthworm populations, in part because of the registration process that examines adverse environmental effects such as mortality to beneficial, non-target organisms (including earthworms).

Various lawn care practices can help reduce the problem of a bumpy lawn. Bumpiness in sparse, thin lawns will be less noticeable if a healthy thick turf is re-established through re-seeding with a turfgrass species/variety suited to the site and through proper fertilization, mowing and irrigation.

Mechanical means to reduce bumpiness will be necessary to eliminate existing roughness. Core aerifying, power raking and verticutting are all mechanical processes that will break down some of the bumps in the lawn. Roughness accumulates over several years and it should be gradually removed instead of all at once.

Use of a heavy roller is not recommended. While rolling may remove some roughness, it also damages the turf by compacting the soil. Compacted soil reduces turfgrass vigor and eventually leads to a thinner lawn.

Although rough bumpy lawns and earthworms on the driveway are annoying, destruction of earthworms is not advised.
Source: Iowa State University

Square Footage
Calculate the square footage of your lawn in order to spread seed or fertilizer. Take the entire size of the lot and then subtract everything that is now lawn area. For example, an acre is 43,650 square feet. If your lot is 1/2 acre, divide by 2, 1/4 acre divide by 4, etc., to come up with an overall square footage. Then subtract the area of the house, drive, deck and gardens.

Miracle Plants
Beware of "Miracle Plants" such as Siberian lavender which advertisements state it produces thousands of flowers. This is actually Russian sage which has soft bluish flowers, in loose spikes and smells more like sage.

Zoysiagrass is touted to be very heat and drought tolerant and creates a tough, vigorous lawn. This is all true. What they don't tell you is that in spring and fall in the Chicago area, zoysiagrass is straw brown while other grasses are green.

Buffalograss is advertised as needing little care, little water and little mowing. But, they forget to tell you that it takes a long time to become established allowing weeds to invade. Buffalograss makes a very poor quality lawn and is dormant in spring and fall.

Source: Sandra Mason, University of Illinois Extension - Champaign County

Types of Houseplants

Houseplants for High or Bright Light
Zebra Plant
Pony Tail Palm
Norfolk Island Pine
Jade Plant
False Aralia
Crown of Thorns
Weeping Fig
Purple Passion Plant
English Ivy
Baby Tears
Wax Plant
Pittosporum
Podocarpus

Houseplants for Low Light (Minimum)
Chinese Evergreen
Neanthe Bella Palm
Parlor Palm
Boston Fern
Heart Leaf Philodendron
Mother-in-Law's Tongue/ Snake Plant

Viburnums Versatile Shrubs for the Landscape
Viburnums are a group of versatile, adaptable shrubs for northern Illinois landscapes. While most are larger shrubs, there are actually several species in this groups that have a variety of characteristics.

Most viburnums will flower and produce fruit that often attracts birds. For example, arrowwood viburnum (Viburnum dentatum) is a large, vase-shaped shrub ideal for background and screening plantings. Arrowwood viburnum grows in shade and can tolerate wet soils. Features of this shrub include white flowers in June, blue fruits in summer and maroon foliage in fall.

Another popular viburnum is Viburnum trilobum, known as American cranberrybush vibur num. This shrub is also adapted to moist soil and shade locations. White, lacy flowers yield edible red fruits that hang on well into winter.

Nannyberrry viburnum (Viburnum lentago) is also popular. Nannyberry viburnum will adapt to moist or dry soil and sun or shade. White flowers will lead to black fruit on this shrub. Nannyberry may be leggier in growth than other viburnums.

Viburnum lentago, or Wayfairingtree viburnum, is yet another large, upright shrub that tolerates shade but needs dry soil. This species also has white flowers, then red to black fruit and maroon foliage late in the fall.

Finally, there are also smaller viburnum species, Viburnum carlesii, Koreanspice viburnum, is a medium shrub with rounded form, pink to white fragrant flowers and blue to black fruit. Viburnum opulus 'Nanum', or dwarf European cranberrybush viburnum, makes a good small, informal hedge. This viburnum has globe-like form and is shade tolerant. Unlike other viburnums, it very rarely flowers or produces fruit.

Source: Bruce Spangenberg, University of Illinois Extension

Growing Potatoes
Potatoes are started from potato pieces. The "seed pieces" may be small whole potatoes or potatoes cut into 1.5 to 2 ounce pieces. Plant the pieces soon after cutting. Each seed piece should have at least one good "eye." It is best to buy certified disease-free seed potatoes rather then using the sprouting potatoes out of your potato bin. Plant seed pieces 10-12 inches apart and cover in a furrow about 2 to 3 inches deep. Space rows 24 to 36 inches apart.

After the plants emerge, form a wide ridge by hoeing soil up around the plants. By the end of summer the ridge may be 4 to 6 inches high. Ridging helps to eliminate weeds and keeps the potatoes from turning green. While the tubers are forming, be sure to provide uniform moisture. Water helps to cool the soil and eliminate the knobby tubers that bear a striking resemblance to Uncle Fred.

Harvest potatoes after the vines have died. The tubers develop four to six inches below the soil surface. New potatoes are usually dug in July. Late potatoes are usually dug in August or September. After curing, potatoes may be stored in a dark room at temperatures between 38-40°F and high humidity.

Another cultivation method, especially good for late varieties, is known as straw potatoes. The seed pieces and rows are the same as conventional cultivation, but the seed pieces are placed on top of the soil surface. Place loose straw 4 to 6 inches deep over the seed pieces and between the rows. Potato sprouts will emerge through the straw. Periodically add more straw to protect the developing tubers. At harvest time, just pull the straw back.

Whatever method is used for growing and storing potatoes, the tuber should not receive light. When potato tubers are subjected to light they will turn green and will also increase the amount of a toxic chemical called solanine.

All potatoes contain small amounts of alkaloid compounds usually just referred to as solanine. Potatoes are in the same family as the poisonous plants of belladonna and nightshade. High doses of solanine can kill. Lesser doses can cause gastrointestinal problems of nausea, diarrhea and vomiting to neurological problems of drowsiness and shortness of breath. Green potatoes could have 4 to 5 times the maximum amount of solanine considered safe. Since solanine is in the flesh, peeling does little to reduce concentrations. Green potatoes should not be eaten and should be deposited in the nearest compost pile.

Check out Watch Your Garden Grow at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/veggies for more information.
Source: Sandra Mason, University of Illinois Extension - Champaign County

March

Edible
Grow vegetables in raised beds. Raised beds are easier to maintain and warm up early in the spring and stay warm late in the fall. How to build raised beds factsheet is available.

Plan your vegetable garden on a sheet of paper to utilize your space efficiently. Rotate vegetables to reduce insect and disease problems.

Make cages for tomato plants.

Sow radish, lettuce, pea and spinach seeds.

Plant broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower.

Ornamental
Prune deciduous trees and shrubs that bloom in the summer. Shrubs that bloom in the spring should be pruned after flowering.

Apply fungicides (Benomyl or Captan) for apple scab control when new green growth starts. Spray every seven to ten days through mid-July.

Divide most perennials now. Peony, iris and poppy are best divided in late summer to early fall.

Cut back ornamental grass foliage to about 4-6 inches; old foliage left on the plant can delay the crown's warming and subsequent growth by as much as three weeks.

Divide ornamental grasses before growth starts. Grasses that have died out in the center should be divided.

Rejuvenate red and yellow stem dogwoods, spireas and privet hedges. Cut back to the ground. Cutting will stimulate new growth.

Transplant shrubs while still dormant.

Interior
Repot houseplants into a new pot one size larger.

Fertilize houseplants as day length increases.

April

Edible
Plant 'straw potatoes.'

Have your soil tested. Call 773-233-0476 for a soil testing booklet.

Start herb seeds indoors. Herbs easily grown for transplanting include: chives, sage, sweet marjoram, basil, summer savory and parsley. For free chives, sage and basil seeds call 773-233-0476.

Plant asparagus and rhubarb.

Ornamental
Try lettuce as a living green mulch. Plant around perennials. Later in growing season cover with compost or other mulch.

Sign up for the Home Lawn Self-Study Course. You will receive three lessons, one a week. The course, written by University of Illinois horticulturists, covers all the basics of lawn care: seeding, sodding, watering, mowing, fertilization, weeds, grubs and lawn diseases. Send $10 check payable to University of Illinois to: Lawn Care Course, University of Illinois Extension, 3807 West 111th Street, Chicago, IL 60655. For questions about this course call 773-233-0476.

Seed lawns. August 15 - September 15 is the best time for seeding lawns because there is less competition from weed seeds.

Call 773-233-0476 for information on our Garden Faire 2002 being held at the Chicago High School for Agricultural Sciences at 3857 West 111th Street in Chicago on Saturday, April 20 from 9 am - 4 pm. The Faire is a one day horticultural event sponsored by the University of Illinois Extension, the Master Gardeners of Chicago and the Chicago High School for Agricultural Sciences. The seminars and workshops cover a wide variety of topics and are presented by speakers with extensive knowledge. A special feature of this event is the Plant Clinic. We also offer a variety of garden related vendors who will bring the latest tools and garden wares. A fee of $25 includes lunch.

Apply crabgrass controls in late April through May. Crabgrass seeds will not germinate until soil temperatures get near 60 degrees for several consecutive days.

Prune roses when forsythias are in bloom. Remove all dead and dying canes. These are shriveled, dark brown or black. Cut at a 45 degree angle above an outward facing bud. Seal the ends of cuts with white glue to prevent the entry of cane borers.

Keep mulch nearby for a quick cover up if there is a cold snap.

Do not apply grub controls in the spring. Apply in late June or early July if necessary. A population of eight to twelve grubs per square foot causes lawn damage that requires control.

Groundcover can be mowed to remove winter burned foliage. Raise the mower to its highest setting; fertilize and water after mowing to encourage rapid regrowth.

Interior
Increase watering of houseplants as growth occurs.

May

Ornamental
Create a pond in your backyard.

Create a colorful scene with flowering annuals.

Prune spring flowering shrubs after blooming.

Mow lawn at a height of 2 1/2 to 3 inches. Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade.

Pinch back mums when they are six inches tall for bushier plants. Continue to pinch back until mid-July.

Plant canna and dahlia tubers mid-late May.

Plant gladioli bulbs as soil warms. Plant at two week intervals.

Concentrate on growing thick, dense grass. Improving the health and vigor of your lawn will go a long ways towards keeping weeds at a tolerable level and reducing herbicide use.

May

Edible
Plant tomato and pepper transplants after danger of frost is past. The frost free date for the Chicagoland area is around May 15.

Place cutworm collars around your transplants. Make collars from cardboard or use can with both ends cut out. Place can over transplant and push inch or two into soil. Remove collar when stems have thickened.

Control rabbits with a 2 1/2 - 3' tall chicken wire fence. Bend back eight inches of the fence and bury under the soil. This will keep rabbits from digging under the fence.

Indoors
Watch for sowbugs indoors. Sowbugs are small armadillo-like artropods. They are about 3/4" long and brownish gray.

June

Ornamental
Do not remove spring flowering bulb foliage until it turns yellow.

Invite butterflies to your garden.

Start spraying roses with a fungicide to prevent blackspot.

Take soft wood cutting of shrubs to start new plants.

Water lawns early enough in the day to allow grass to dry before nightfall. Watering late in the day or evening will help to promote disease development.

Pinch petunias when they are six inches tall to promote branching.

Target weedy areas in your lawn rather than spraying the entire yard. Spot treat individual weeds whenever possible. If there are only a few scattered here and there, try digging them out after a rain, or soak the area first with your sprinkler. Even thistles pop out relatively easily when the soil is soft and moist.

Whenever possible, use a hand-held sprayer rather than a hose and device. It's too easy to become distracted and aim a hose in the wrong direction, allowing spray to hit non-target plants. Hose end sprayers are also less accurate in the delivery of the right concentration of spray.

Wet the surface of weed leaves with herbicide; never soak it into the soil.

Early morning is probably the best time to use herbicides, provided plants aren't covered with dew (which would dilute the herbicide.) It's usually least windy early in the day.

Edible
Plant pumpkin seeds in early June for Halloween pumpkins.

Thin apples so they are seven to nine inches apart.

Spray cabbage worms with Bacillus thuriengensis.

Water vegetables. Vegetables need one inch of water per week.
Watch for striped and spotted cucumber beetles. Beetles will spread cucumber wilt disease.

Do not over fertilize herbs. Too much fertilizer can reduce flavor and pungency at harvest.

Dropping fruit from an apple tree is normal. It is nature's way of thinning the crop. Only one bloom in 20 is needed for a good crop on an apple tree.

Sprouts are simply the tender germinated forms of seeds or beans. They are grown without soil, in a cool water medium. Most sprouts grow to maturity in five to seven days, depending on the type of seed or bean. The most popular are mung bean sprouts, alfalfa, clover, sunflower and radish. You've probably eaten them at salad bars and on sandwiches, adding crispness and flavor. They are especially popular among the vegetarian crowd.

But recently sprouts have emerged as a source of foodborne illness or food poisoning. What has happened to sprouts? Since 1995, health officials worldwide have attributed a number of outbreaks of food poisoning from E. coli and Salmonella bacteria found in some sprouts. Researchers believe the seeds are the source of the problem.

There has been no link to contamination of sprouts during production, packing or distribution. The problem has been traced to the seeds for growing sprouts as the actual source of contamination. In the field, seeds may be contaminated by water, animals and/or soil used in the growing process.

Some producers have tried a special rinse to rid seeds of possible contamination but to no avail. When tiny cracks and crevices in the seed harbor bacteria, those bacteria can continue to grow and multiply to harmful levels during growing and handling. Because sprouts are usually eaten raw or heated only to very low temperatures, the risk of illness can be great.

For this reason health officials advise eating cooked sprouts. While mung bean sprouts perform well in cooked dishes, most other sprouts do not. Groups that should be avoiding raw sprouts include children, the elderly and people with compromised immune systems. If you are not in one of these groups and you are serving or consuming raw sprouts, follow these guidelines:

• Buy only sprouts kept at refrigerator temperatures.
• Select crisp looking sprouts with the buds attached. Avoid musty smelling, dark or slimy looking sprouts.
• Refrigerate sprouts immediately. They should be stored in a refrigerator set no higher than 41 degrees F (5 degrees C).
• As when handling all raw foods, wash hands with warm water and soap for at least 20 seconds before and after handling sprouts.
• Rinse sprouts thoroughly with cool water before use. This can help remove surface dirt. Do not use soap or other detergents.

Source: Hands on Food Safety Newsletter, Summer 2000 Issue, Illinois Dept. of Public Health, John Lumpkin, M.D., Director

When you think of horseradish what comes to mind? Spicy pungency that makes your eyes water? Or, maybe an incredible opening and clearing of the sinuses? And what makes horseradish kick like a mule - a natural plant chemical called alkyl isothiocynate (AITC).

Horseradish is a rowdy member of the mustard family. It shares lineage with a bunch of mild mannered cousins - the radish, kale, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts. Although mustard oil contains 40% AITC, horseradish contains a whopping 60% which gives it that unique punch. The thick white knobby root of the horseradish plant is harvested in the spring and fall and most of the world's horseradish is grown right here in Illinois.

Each year since 1988, on the first weekend in June, Collinsville, Illinois (located near St. Louis)hosts the International Horseradish Festival. The event is designed to create national awareness for the herb and the area where it grows best. Collinsville is located in an area of the state known as the "Mississippi River Basin." During the ice age glaciers left the basin area rich in potash, a nutrient on which horseradish thrives. According to the festival organizers, 60 percent of the world's horseradish comes from this region. This year's festival is scheduled for June 1st & 2nd.

What's in a name? Horseradish has nothing to do with horses and it's not really a radish. The European settlers brought the plant here. Researchers at the University of Illinois say the name may have come from an English adaptation of its original German name. The Germans called it "meerretich" or "sea radish." The German word "mere" sounds like mare in English. Perhaps, "mare-radish" eventually became "horseradish." Nevertheless the word horseradish first appeared in print in 1597.

The piquant flavor and unique smell of horseradish is not apparent until it is ground or grated. When the root cells are crushed they release a volatile oil containing AITC. The addition of vinegar stabilizes the oils, but horseradish quickly loses its flavor with prolonged exposure to air and warmth. Horseradish is a flavor ingredient in many condiments. Varieties of prepared horseradish include Cream Style Horseradish, Horseradish Sauce and Beet Horseradish. The flavor compliments seafood, beef and vegetable combinations very well, while adding no fat or sodium.

The increased popularity of sushi has placed horseradish in demand more than ever as a substitute for wasabi. Traditionally Japanese chefs serve sushi and other seafood dishes with a condiment called wasabi. Wasabi, a root-like herb similar to horseradish, is one of the world's most difficult plants to grow. It requires intensive cultivation and takes two years to mature. Wasabi is rare and very expensive.

The deliciously smooth pale-green wasabi sauce served with your sushi is most likely ground horseradish with a little vinegar and green food coloring. It works well and there just isn't enough wasabi to go around.

For a schedule of events for the International Horseradish Festival call the Collinsville Chamber of Commerce at 618-344-2884.

Prepared Horseradish
This recipe makes about one cup of prepared horseradish. It will keep in the refrigerator in a tightly sealed jar for about two weeks. Do not use a metal container, a jar with a screw band closure works well.

1 piece of horseradish root, about 4 ounces, washed, peeled and chopped
2 teaspoons cider vinegar
2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon sugar

1. Working in a well-ventilated area, place all ingredients in the bowl of a food processor.
2. Puree for about 1 minute, until well minced. Transfer to a one-cup jar with screw band and store in the refrigerator until ready to use.

You may have heard about a natural herb called stevia, which yields a sweet taste although it is not sugar. Stevia is a product made from a shrub from South America, Stevia rebaudiana. Other names for the leaves of this plant are Sweet Herb and Sweetleaf. Although all plant parts are intensely sweet, usually it is the leaves from which a water extract is taken to produce the alternative sweetener.

Stevia is classified as a nutritional supplement and not a "food" or food ingredient by the Food & Drug Administration (FDA). The law is written like this - in order for a food ingredient to be approved for use in the U.S., the producer must provide FDA with documentation that the ingredients are safe. This includes experiments that have proven the ingredients do not cause cancer in laboratory animals, do not alter any aspect of reproduction and do not damage any organ system, such as the kidney or heart.

When the petition to have Stevia approved as a food ingredient was presented for review by the FDA it was rejected. Scientists did not believe that the company provided enough evidence that Stevia was safe. Legally, Stevia is not supposed to be marketed as a sweetener, but as a supplement.

The nutritional supplement laws differ from the food laws. With nutritional supplements the burden of proof is on the FDA. Supplement manufacturers do not have to provide detailed scientific information about their product to the FDA in order to get it on the market. Companies collect information about the adverse effects of a supplement and voluntarily supply the information to the FDA, but, it is the responsibility of the FDA to prove that the produce is unsafe.

Stevia has also been purported to lower blood glucose. This is unproven. Supplement manufacturers are not supposed to make health claims that have not been approved by the FDA. When a company makes an unapproved health claim, a disclaimer is also printed on the package label. Thus far only a few animal studies have been conducted about the health benefits of Stevia. Certainly not enough information is available to make general recommendations about using Stevia to control blood glucose levels.

Stevia is sold in many forms: liquid concentrate, white powdered extract, blended with maltodextrin, fresh Stevia leaves, or as dried leaf and finely powdered leaves. Stevia is currently sold as a supplement with a disclaimer printed on the label. Most disclaimers are printed on the back panel of the box or package. The following is a sample disclaimer statement: "This statement has not been evaluation by the Food & Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease."

Supplements are not regulated, so the amount of the active ingredient steviodide will vary from product to product. This also means that the sweetness can vary within a product, among producers and among the various forms sold.

Source: Carol Schlitt, MS and Karen Chapman - Novakofski, RD, PhD, University of Illinois Extension 2001

How much Vitamin C is in your juice?

Which is highest in Vitamin C?
a. A navel orange
b. 8 ounces orange juice from frozen concentrate
c. 8 ounce can of orange juice
d. 8 ounces fresh squeezed orange juice

The answer is "d". A glass of fresh squeezed orange juice contains approximately 124 mg of Vitamin C because a glass of juice usually contains the juice of more than one orange. While a seedless naval orange contains 75 mg Vitamin C, 8 ounces frozen concentrate contains 97 mg and canned juice about 86 mg. For added value, a naval orange also has another benefit - fiber. While reaching the Recommended Dietary Allowance for Vitamin C, which is 60 mg per day, it also provides four grams of fiber.

Horseradish Recipe
Blanched Spring Vegetables with Pungent Horseradish Dressing
This dressing is delicious with fresh salad greens, broccoli, cauliflower and as a dip for artichokes. It does not store well, as the horseradish tends to lose flavor after a few days, so make and use the same day for best results.

1 quart boiling water
2 pounds young green beans or fresh asparagus
1 pound red potatoes, scrubbed and cubed
2 tablespoons prepared horseradish
2 tablespoons low-fat sour cream
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup chopped red onions
2 teaspoons minced or pressed garlic
1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Freshly ground black pepper and salt to taste
Finely chopped peanuts or almonds as garnish

1. In a large pot with tight fitting lid, bring water to a rolling boil. Prepare a large pan of ice water and set aside. Add potatoes to rapidly boiling water and cook for about 10 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Add the green beans to the pot, cover and boil for two minutes only.
2. Remove and immediately place vegetables in ice water bath. Allow to set for five minutes. Drain.
3. In a small bowl, whisk together dressing ingredients, toss with drained vegetables. Taste. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Refrigerate for 4-8 hours until chilled. To serve
   garnish with chipped peanuts or almonds.

Makes six servings

Strawberries & More
If you have had fresh strawberries over the winter, you were probably very disappointed in the flavor. Winter strawberries come to the Chicagoland area from far away places and flavor and texture are often sacrificed for appearance. Some of the best and freshest strawberries you will ever eat have probably come from your garden or the strawberry pot on your deck or balcony. If you do not grow strawberries, the next bet thing is driving to the nearest u-pick farm. Illinois and Indiana strawberry crops peak in June. So, get ready because the season is short.

The quality of our locally grown strawberry s you know is dependent on and at the mercy of the type of weather spring brings. So, what is the outlook for strawberries this season? Only Mother Nature knows for sure. Experts can only speculate.

Information about strawberry u-pick farms is available at the Strawberries & More web site at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/strawberries.

Macerated Strawberries
To macerate is to soak a food (usually fruit) in a liquid in order to infuse it with the liquid's flavor. A spirit such as brandy, rum or a liqueur is often the macerating liquid. In this recipe we use balsamic vinegar, which gets its pungent sweetness from years of aging in barrels of various types of wood.
1 pint strawberries
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2-4 tablespoons sugar
Dollop of vanilla yogurt or ice cream

1. Wash and drain strawberries. Hull and cut in half.
2. Toss strawberries with balsamic vinegar. Sprinkle with sugar and toss. Refrigerate for two hours.
3. To serve: Place a layer of strawberries in dessert bowls and top with vanilla yogurt or ice cream.

Yield: four servings

...nearly one in five Americans, across the nation, drinks water with lead levels considered excessive by the Environmental Protection Agency? Homes built more than 80 years ago may still contain pipes made of lead or lead alloy. If your pipes contain lead, you can reduce the amount of lead in your tap water by letting the water run for a few minutes in the morning to flush out standing water that has been in contact with any lead plumbing materials. Don't drink, cook or prepare baby formulas with hot tap water, since hot water dissolves lead more quickly than cold. And, if you have any new plumbing installed, insist that non-lead materials be used.

Source: Wellness Made Easy from the University of California, Berkeley Wellness Letter.

...the Mason jar is almost 150 years old? Twenty-six year old John L. Mason was issued the patent in 1858 in the state of New York. The new jar featured a wide mouth, with threads-molded zinc lid with a rubber gasket. It was designed to be air and watertight. This historic invention helped to promote home canning across the country, supplying rural families with an alternative to the pickling, smoking and drying of foods for the winter. The jar was so popular, manufacturers continued to include Mason's trademark embossing until the late 1920's and some people still refer to the canning jar as a Mason jar today.

Source: Saveur Magazine, No. 51, Saveur Fare

...the navel orange has a navel? The blossom end actually looks like a human navel (an innie) thus the name. Navel oranges are grown in California, Arizona and Florida. They are excellent oranges for "eating out of hand" as they are large, with very sweet and juicy pulp and no seeds. They are available and in season from fall to late spring - which is now. One large orange contains a mere 64 calories, a respectable 3 grams fiber, 14 mg magnesium, 249 mg potassium, more than a day's recommendation for Vitamin C - 80 mg and 48 mcg folate, as well as many other vitamins, minerals and nutrients in small amounts.

Source: USDA Nutrient Database