Bearded irises are one of the most popular and widely grown perennials in the home landscape. The colorful, orchid-like flowers of bearded irises are composed of six segments. The three inner segments (petals), which are generally upright, are referred to as standards. The drooping, outer 3 segments are known as falls. The common name comes from the fuzzy growth or "beard" which runs down the center of each fall. Bearded irises are available in a wide range of colors, including white, yellow, orange, pink, wine-red, blue and purple. The flowers of many varieties posses various combinations or blends of these colors. Bearded irises are commonly classified into dwarf bearded (plants are 4 to 10 inches tall), standard dwarf bearded (10 to 15 inches tall), intermediate bearded (15 to 28 inches tall), and tall bearded (over 28 inches tall). Bearded irises bloom in the spring. The dwarf bearded forms are the first to bloom, usually mid-April to early May. The tall bearded varieties are the last of the bearded irises to bloom, typically mid-May to mid-June. A few cultivars actually bloom again in late summer or early fall. Leaves are strap-like and grow in fan-shaped clumps. Gardeners can choose from several thousand named varieties.

While bearded irises are easy-to-grow, long-lived perennials, they need to be divided every 3 to 5 years. If not divided, the plants become overcrowded and flower production decreases. Crowded plants are also more prone to disease problems. The best time to dig, divide and transplant bearded irises is in July and August.

Irises grow from thick, fleshy, underground stems called rhizomes. Carefully dig up the iris clumps with a spade. Cut the leaves back to 1/3 their original height. Wash the soil from the rhizomes with a stream of water. Then cut the rhizomes apart with a sharp knife. Each division should have a fan of leaves, a healthy rhizome and several large roots. Discard the old, leafless rhizomes in the center of each clump. Also, discard all diseased and borer damaged rhizomes.

Ideal planting sites for bearded irises are fertile, well-drained soils and full sun. While they tolerate light shade, maximum flower production occurs in full sun. Bacterial soft rot is often a problem in wet, poorly drained sites. Wet, poorly drained sites can often be improved by incorporating organic matter, such as peat or compost, into the soil prior to planting. Raised beds are another option for gardeners with poorly drained soils.

When planting bearded irises, dig a hole large enough to accommodate the rhizome and roots. Build a mound in the center of the hole. Place a rhizome on top of the mound and spread the roots in the surrounding trench. Then cover with soil. When planted, the rhizome should be just below the soil surface. Finally, water each plant thoroughly. To obtain a good flower display, plant 3 or more rhizomes of one variety in a group. Space the rhizomes about 12 to 24 inches apart. Point each fan of leaves away from the other irises in the group.

Newly planted bearded irises are susceptible to injury their first winter. Repeated freezing and thawing of the soil during the winter months may heave the rhizomes out of the soil and damage or destroy them. To prevent damage, apply a light layer of straw in late fall. Remove the mulch in early spring. The transplanted irises will bloom sparsely the first spring. The plants should be in full bloom in their second and third years.

Source: Richard Jauron, Dept. of Horticulture, Iowa State University.

Having problems with hydrangea shrubs flowering? Have you waited several years to see those knockout blue or pink ball-like blooms in your shady backyard?

The big leaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) is the colorful shrub we see in florist shops and supermarkets and desire in our landscape. Big leaf hydrangeas bloom on the previous season's growth. Since the stems often die back to the ground in the winter, they seldom bloom. Even placement in a protected site with fertile, moist, well-rained soil will not guarantee blooms every year.

But wait! Don't give up on hydrangeas yet. Hydrangeas are a wonderful group of summer blooming shrubs with several species that are hardy.

One of the most durable and reliable of the hydrangeas is smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea aborescens). This 3 to 5 foot shrub flowers freely from June to September. The flowers are rounded and change from an apple green to creamy white during the summer. Flowers are also showy in the fall as they fade to tan and persist into the winter. 'Annabelle' is one of the most popular cultivars and is noted for its large (almost 1 foot diameter) flower heads. This variety can be spotted from great distance. The flowers are often so heavy they weigh the stems to the ground giving the shrub a "weeping effect." For plenty of flowers and dense dark green leaves, plant smooth hydrangea in full sun to partial shade. Smooth hydrangea is tolerant of many soil types but prefers moist, well-drained soils. This is one of the hardiest of the hydrangeas often surviving into USDA hardiness zone 3 or northern Minnesota.

The panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) blooms later than the smooth hydrangea, often not starting until July. But the 6 to 12 inch long, cone shaped, creamy white flowers are equally persistent. As the flowers age, they often become a mottled pink. This is the largest of the shrub-type hydrangeas often reaching 10 feet or more in height. There are many wonderful cultivars in this species with 'Grandiflora' or 'PeeGee' being one of the most popular. Once again the flowers are so large they often weigh down the branches. Panicle hydrangea is a vigorous grower that is hardy to USDA Hardiness zone 3 and a reliable bloomer in the landscape. It is often fashioned into small trees to make attractive specimens in the garden. Other panicle hydrangea cultivars include 'Tardiva,' 'Unique,' 'Pink Diamond,' 'White Moth,' and 'Preacox.' These cultivars are also noted for their long cone-shaped blooms that turn varying shades of pink as they age.

One of the most interesting hydrangea species is the Oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia). The coarse leaves are 3 to 8 inches long and shaped like oak leaves, hence the common name. The foliage is also noted for its attractive, red-burgundy fall color. This 3 to 5 foot shrub has showy cone shaped, creamy white flowers in June and July. Like panicle hydrangea, the flowers often develop pinkish undertones as they mature. The oakleaf hydrangea is considered hardy to USDA Hardiness zone 5. It should perform well in protected sites, but may not survive in northern areas of the state. It prefers partial shade in fertile, moist, well-drained soil with protection from harsh winter winds. Several cultivars are available. These cultivars vary in plant height from 2 feet on 'PeeWee' and up to 12 feet on 'Alice.' Flower heads can be 4 to 14 inches long depending on cultivar.

Not all hydrangeas are shrubs. One such example is climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala ssp. Petiolaris). Many notable horticulturists have praised climbing hydrangea as the best landscape vine. It clings easily to tree bark or other structures and is almost unlimited in its ability to climb often reaching over 50 feet in height. The white flowers appear in 6 to 10 inch diameter, flat-topped corymbs in early July and persist for several weeks. The glossy dark green leaves provide the perfect backdrop to show off the blossoms. Another interesting feature of this plant is its exfoliating brown bark. The shaggy bark adds a great deal of interest in the winter making this a multi-season ornamental plant. As with most hydrangeas, climbing hydrangea prefers partial shade to full sun with a moist, fertile, well-drained soil. Plants are often slow to establish, taking a couple of years before vigorous growth begins. Support will also be needed as the plants become established and to direct growth. Give this one plenty of room and watch it grow. Climbing hydrangea is hardy to USDA hardiness zone 5.

Another added bonus to most hydrangea flowers is that they make excellent cut and dried flowers. You can bring the blossoms inside to brighten the indoor landscape.

Source: Cindy Hayes, Dept. of Horticulture, Iowa State University

If dry conditions occur, home gardeners may have to make some difficult decisions. The following questions and answers on watering may help the gardener deal with watering concerns.

How often do I need to water?
A deep watering once a week should be adequate for fruit, vegetable and flower gardens. Apply 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week. A weekly application of 1 to 1.5 inches of water also is adequate for an established lawn. The key to watering newly planted trees and shrubs is to check the moisture status of the plant's root-ball or root-mass. The roots of newly planted trees and shrubs are initially confined to the plant root-ball (balled and burlapped plants) or root-mass (container grown plants). Since the root-ball or root-mass can dry out very quickly, its moisture status should be checked frequently. Newly planted trees and shrub should be watered when the root-ball or root-mass (not the surrounding soil) begins to dry out. To water the root-ball or root-mass, slowly apply water to the base of the plant. The frequency of watering can be reduced and the watering area enlarged as the plant's root system begins to grow into the backfilled and surrounding soil. Small trees usually require watering for one to two growing seasons. It may be necessary to water large trees for three to four years.

These are general watering recommendations. The frequency and amount of watering is largely determined by soil characteristics and weather conditions. For example, sandy soils require more frequent watering than loam soils. Adjust your watering practices to specific weather and soil conditions.

When should I water?
When irrigating with a sprinkler, early morning (5 to 9 am) is the best time to water. A morning application allows the water to soak deeply into the soil with little water lost to evaporation. When watering is completed, the plant foliage dries quickly. Watering at midday is less efficient because evaporation is rapid and strong winds may cause uneven water distribution. Strong midday winds also may carry water onto driveways, patios or streets, wasting considerable amounts of water. Watering lawns and gardens with a sprinkler in the evening or at night may increase disease problems.

In fruit, vegetable and flower gardens, drip irrigation systems and soaker hoses generally are more efficient and cause fewer disease problems than sprinklers. Mornings and evenings are excellent times to water gardens when using a drip irrigation system or soaker hose.

Are there ways to reduce water use in the garden?
Apply a mulch around landscape plantings and garden areas to conserve soil moisture. Mulching reduces the rate of evaporation from the soil surface and also limits weed competition. Organic materials, such as grass clippings, straw and shredded leaves, are excellent mulches for the vegetable garden. Woodchips, shredded bark and ground corncobs are good choices for trees, shrubs and perennials.

The depth of the mulch depends on the type of material used and crop. Apply woodchips and shredded bark to a depth of three to four inches around trees and shrubs. Optimum depth in the vegetable garden ranges from two to three inches for fine materials, such a grass clippings, to six to eight inches for straw.

Is it necessary to water established trees and shrubs?
Large, well-established trees and shrubs that are well adapted to our climate should not require watering at this time. Well-established plants have extensive root systems and should be able to absorb sufficient amounts of moisture.

Trees and shrubs, such as the European mountain ash and paper birch, are not well adapted to hot, dry conditions. Extended periods of dry weather are extremely stressful for these plants. The weakened paper birch and mountain ash are often attacked by insects and disease pathogens, resulting in their eventual destruction. European mountain ash, paper birch and European birch should be watered during dry periods to prevent major problems in the future.

Other trees and shrubs in the landscape that would probably benefit from watering include pagoda dogwood, redbud, beech, tulip tree, rhododendrons and azaleas. If the drought persists, even the large, well-established trees and shrubs would welcome watering by mid to late summer.

Is it necessary to water an established lawn?
Cool-season grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, can survive extended periods of dry weather. The turfgrass plants stop shoot growth and go dormant. Dormancy is a natural survival mechanism for turfgrasses. While the leaves have died and turned brown, the turfgrass roots and crowns remain alive. Generally, turfgrass can remain dormant for four to six weeks without significant damage to the plants.

If I do decide to water my lawn, how and when should it be watered?
The appearance of the turfgrass is the best way to determine when to water the lawn. The ideal time to water a lawn is at the first signs of water stress. Turfgrasses that have adequate supplies of water are normally dark green in color. For cool-season grasses, such as bluegrass, the first signs of stress are a bluish green color and footprints that remain in the turf after walking across an area.

Most lawns need 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week. When watering the lawn, apply this amount in a single application or possibly two applications three or four days apart. Avoid frequent, light applications of water, which promote shallow rooting and lush growth. Lush, shallow-rooted turfgrass is less drought tolerant. To determine the amount of water applied by the sprinkler, place several straight-sided cans within the spray pattern. Then measure the amount of water collected in the cans with a ruler.

What should I do if I allow the lawn to go dormant but the drought persists through the summer?
Dormant lawns are in jeopardy of dying if drought conditions persist over an extended period. It's best to water the lawn if the turfgrass has been dormant for four to six weeks. Apply 1 to 1.5 inches of water in a single application. This will not cause the grass to green up, but it will keep the turfgrass crowns and roots alive. If the dry weather persists, water the dormant lawn approximately every four weeks.

Source: Richard Jauron, Extension Horticulture, Iowa State University

While watering is often necessary during hot, dry weather, home gardeners can conserve soil moisture and reduce water usage by placing a mulch around landscape plantings and in fruit and vegetable gardens. Several organic materials may be used as mulches. The characteristics of several suggested mulches are discussed below.

Allow lawn clippings to dry before applying to garden areas. Fresh, green material will settle and form a dense mat. It may also produce an unpleasant odor. If the lawn has been treated with herbicides for broadleaf weed control, don't use the clippings until the lawn has been mowed two or three times after treatment. The best source of lawn clippings is a well-maintained lawn. Grass clippings from a weed infested lawn will undoubtedly contain a large amount of weed seed, such as dandelion, plantain and crabgrass. Grass clippings are not long-lasting and are best used in the vegetable garden or annual flower bed.

Straw that is free from crop and weed seed is an excellent mulch for the vegetable garden and strawberry bed. Suggested materials include wheat, oat and soybean straw. Urban gardeners can often buy straw at garden centers. Straw may provide a winter habitat for mice and other rodents. Therefore, caution should be exercised when using straw around trees and shrubs.

Leaves are readily available in the fall. They should be shredded or composted before applied as a mulch. Shredded or partially composted leaves do not mat down as readily as whole leaves, are less likely to blow away in the wind and decompose more quickly. Shredded or composted leaves are an excellent mulch for vegetable gardens, raspberry plantings, perennial flower bed and around trees and shrubs. While the leaves of some trees, such as oak, are acid in reaction, they can be safely used in the yard and garden. The small amounts used by home gardeners have little effect on soil pH. Leaves are a poor winter mulch for strawberries and tender herbaceous perennials.

Pine needles are light, airy, decompose slowly and make an attractive mulch. They may last several years and may be easily removed if necessary. Pine needles are acid in reaction and are excellent mulches for acid-loving plants, such as azaleas and rhododendrons. They can also be safely used in the vegetable garden and elsewhere in the home landscape. The best source of pine needles is a large, established windbreak.

Cocoa bean hulls are a by product of chocolate manufacturing companies. Cocoa bean hulls are light, easy to handle and have an attractive brown color. They also have a delightful aroma. (Unfortunately for chocolate lovers, the aroma lasts only for a few days.) While cocoa bean hulls are somewhat expensive, a mulch depth of 1 to 2 inches is sufficient. Cocoa bean hulls are excellent mulches for annuals, perennials and roses. The material lasts about one growing season.

Shredded newspaper or whole sheets may be used in the vegetable garden. Most newspaper publishers use organic inks so gardeners need not worry about lead contamination. When placing sheets between plant rows in the garden, weigh them down to prevent them from blowing away in the wind.

Ground corncobs gradually darken as they age, becoming an attractive mulch. They are normally weed free, lightweight and easy to handle and apply. Corncobs decompose slowly and are most often used around trees and shrubs. They are also an excellent mulch for raspberries.

Sawdust is easy to apply, weed free and decompose slowly. Generally, sawdust should be allowed to age or weather for a year before being applied. If fresh sawdust is used, make sure the sawdust doesn't cake. Do not use sawdust from treated lumber in the yard and garden.

Woodchips are an excellent mulching material which may be available from local arborists. The material is obtained by passing tree and shrub trimmings through a mechanical chipper. Municipal or private yard waste sites are other possible sources of woodchips. They are generally used in landscape plantings, such as around trees and shrubs and in perennial beds.

Commercially packaged bark mulches are available shredded or as chips, nugget or chunks. They are sometimes available in bulk quantities from nurseries and landscape companies. Bark mulches are attractive, weed free and decompose slowly. Bark mulches are best used around trees and shrubs and in perennial beds.

Sawdust, woodchips and bark mulches can be safely used around the home. These materials will not "attract" termites to the house.
Sawdust, woodchips, bark and ground corncobs may deplete nitrogen in the soil during the process of decomposition. The bacteria in the soil that gradually break down the organic materials require large quantities of nitrogen. Since the woody materials contain only small amounts of nitrogen, the bacteria may utilize some of the available nitrogen in the soil. A possible nitrogen deficiency can be prevented by sprinkling a small amount of complete fertilizer, such as 5-10-5, on the soil surface prior to applying the mulch, thereby providing sufficient amounts of nitrogen to meet the needs of both the bacteria and plants.

The type of mulch determines the depth of the material. Apply most organic mulches 2 to 4 inches in depth. The selection of the mulch should be based on availability, cost, appearance, function, durability and other factors.

Source: Richard Jauron, Dept. of Horticulture, Iowa State University

June

• Apply postemergence broadleaf weed control (avoid hot weather).
  
  
• Follow directions carefully and do not apply when temperatures are over 80 degrees F or to drought stressed turf.
  
  
• Light fertilization (with irrigation) controlled release nitrogen suggested. Monitor for pests/problems.

July

• Irrigation (as needed or allow lawn to go dormant.)
  
  
• Monitoring for pests/problems (sod webworm & grubs.)
  
  
• If lawn has a history of white grub damage, consider applying insecticide containing Merit.
  
  
• Fertilize only on irrigated lawns or during summers with above average rainfall and use a product containing Merit in early July.
  
  
• Mow lawn at 2.5-3 inches. Lawns mowed at higher heights tend to have deeper roots, less weed problems and look much better.

Slugs are an occasional problem for most gardeners. Hosta growers, on the other hand, seem to always have more than their share of slugs. During drought years slugs almost disappear from sight. Prolonged periods of wet weather, however, have the opposite affect and numbers become noticeable.

Slugs are close relatives of snails, clams and oysters. Slugs have soft, unsegmented bodies and look very similar to snails, but without the external shell. When stretched out the average garden slug will be
up to one inch in length.

Slugs require a damp environment to survive. Periodic drying that occurs in gardens may be one of the factors that limits this animal to relative obscurity except in wet years. Slugs are protected from drying by hiding during the day and feeding at night. They spend the daytime hiding in soil crevices or under boards, rocks, mulch, debris or the foliage of low, dense plants.

Feeding damage appears as large, irregular holes. When abundant, they may cause considerable damage to newly transplanted bedding plants and large-leafed ornamentals such as hosta.

Slug treatment may be occasionally necessary, but not always. Cleaning up the garden and eliminating slug hiding places may help. Heavy leaf litter, boards, bricks and other piles of damp debris in contact with the ground should be removed. Dense groundcovers that are harboring slugs can be thinned to promote sunshine, air circulation and drying.

Minor slug problems can be controlled by handpicking. Check carefully around the base of damaged plants and favored hiding places. Night checking with a flashlight may improve your efficiency or you can leave "trap sites" to be checked on a regular basis. Good slug "traps" or convenient hiding places under which the slugs will retreat include overturned pots and a piece of board or asphalt shingle.

Beer is a well known trap attractant for slugs, though any fermenting or yeast containing liquid appears to work. The traditional trap design is to bury a shallow pan in the soil with the top edge level with the soil surface. Renew the beer or attractant regularly and empty the pan of trapped slugs frequently.

Chemical control of slugs will require a special molluscicide. The most commonly available product contains metaldehyde in liquid, granular or pelleted baits. New to the market is a formulation of iron phosphate in pelleted bait form. Early research reports on iron phosphate slug bait (sold as "Sluggo") show mixed results. Slug baits are available for both vegetable gardens and ornamental beds. Read and follow all label directions.

Source: Donald Lewis, Dept. of Entomology, Iowa State University

Exploring the Secret Life of Trees (Grades 3-5)
Help children learn the parts of a tree and their functions and why trees are important to us. Also available in Spanish.
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/trees2/

Trees Are Terrific! (Grades K-2)
Help children learn the critical role that trees play in maintaining the ecological balance on this planet. Also available in Spanish.
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/trees1/

Kids Gardening
Excellent resources and tips for gardening with kids.
http://www.kidsgardening.com/primer.asp

Ask the Expert!
Stumped by your trees? Grounded by problem soil? Needing rescue for your fescue? Get your gardening questions answered by University of Illinois horticulturists.
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/ask/

Preventing Tomato Diseases
Septoria leaf spot and early blight are common fungal leaf diseases of tomato. Cultural techniques can help reduce the risk of foliar blight outbreaks.

1. Water and fertilize to maintain plants in a vigorous condition.

2. Avoid fluctuations of too much and too little water.

3. Avoid wetting foliage when watering. If overhead irrigation is used, water early in the day so the leaves dry quickly.

4. Do not work with plants when the foliage is wet.

5. Eradicate weeds. Mulching around plants can help reduce weed growth and prevent a certain amount of evaporation.

6. Choose wilt-resistant varieties. Varieties that are resistant to Fusarium and Verticillium usually have the letters "VF" as part of the variety name.

7. Fungicide applications can help to prevent fruit and leaves from fungal diseases, especially for gardens that have had a history of problems. Products that contain the active ingredient "chlorothalonil" are effective. Sprays should begin when the plants are about 12 inches tall and applied at 7 to 14 day intervals throughout the season. Using the proper rate and providing good coverage are important. Check the label to be sure it is labeled for tomato diseases and for proper rate information.

8. At the end of the season, remove as much plant debris as possible and till under remaining debris. This helps reduce the overwintering of tomato pathogens.

Deadheading of Flowers
The removal of faded flowers or deadheading annuals, perennials and roses is an important gardening chore. Deadheading prolongs the blooming period and increases the number of later season blooms.

Annuals
Pinch off the faded flowers on annuals, such as petunias, geraniums, marigolds, zinnias and snapdragons, on a regular basis to prevent seed formation and promote additional flowering.

Perennials
The flowering period of many perennials, such as coreopsis, garden phlox and Shasta daisy, can also be prolonged by deadheading. Delphiniums may bloom a second time in late summer if the old stems are cut back after flowering.

Roses
There are two types of compound leaves on the stems of roses. Hybrid tea roses usually have one or two 3-leaflet leaves immediately below the blossom. Next are two or more five leaflet leaves. Understanding this leaf arrangement is important as the procedure for deadheading roses during the first growing season differs from established roses. On a recently planted rose, remove the faded flower above the uppermost 3-leaflet leaf.

Removing a large amount of foliage reduces the young plant's food manufacturing capacity and may weaken it. When deadheading established roses, cut the stem back to an outward facing, 5 leaflet leaf. Retain at least two 5 leaflet leaves on each shoot. Use sharp tools (hand shears or knife) to remove the faded flowers. Cut about 1/4 inch above the leaf with the cut made parallel to the angle of the leaf.

Hose Care
Hoses are an extension of your plumbing system and should be treated accordingly. They are normally sold in lengths of 25, 50, 75 and 100 feet. Shorter hoses have greater per foot costs than longer ones, but are easier to drain and coil. The volume of water delivered by a hose per minute drops as its length increases. For the fastest water flow, use a hose that is as close to the exact length you need rather than one that is too long. The construction of the hose plays a big role in performance and endurance. Rubber hoses are the most flexible and stay pliable at the lowest temperatures, but they are also the most expensive. High-quality reinforced vinyl hoses are also flexible at low temperatures and are resistant to abrasion and bursting. Good quality hoses will have heavy brass couplings. Those with flattened hexagonal or octagonal edges are the most crush resistant. If you can't find a hose with brass couplings, galvanized steel would be the next choice. The least desirable would be plastic.

The most popular hose diameter is 5/8 inch. Larger diameter hoses, such as 3/4 inch and one inch are also available. Unfortunately, they are also heavier to handle. The smaller the diameter, the less water the hose will deliver in a given period. When coupling hoses of different diameters together, attach the largest one closest to the faucet. The smaller hose will help maintain pressure as the water if forced into it.

Proper care of your hose will lengthen its life considerably. Never let a hose kink. Any kink becomes a weak point and the hose will tend to kink there repeatedly. Coil up the hose after each use and put it away. This will reduce its exposure to ultraviolet light and the resulting photo-degradation. Nylon and vinyl hoses are more subject to the deteriorating effects of ultraviolet light. Avoid leaving the hose stretched across the driveway where it can be run over on a regular basis. Bring the hoses indoors in the fall. If you must leave the hose outside for the winter, be sure to drain it before cold weather sets in and causes the water inside to freeze and expand.

A commonly asked question bout hoses is how much water does a hose deliver. Most household water pressure runs about 40 pounds per square inch. A 100 foot long, 5/8 inch diameter hose will deliver 11 gallons of water a minute. Hoses are a convenient way of getting water from point to A to B. Quality construction and a little care can lengthen its life considerably.

Seedhead Development in Lawns
Seedhead development in home lawns has raised some interesting questions. Two of the most interesting questions have been "What causes grass to develop so many seedheads?" and "Can a person allow the seedheads to develop and mature to overseed a thin lawn?"
Seedhead production naturally occurs in cool season turfgrasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, under long days and moderately cool temperatures. Long day refers to 12 hours or more of daylight. Moderately cool temperatures are average daily temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees. The moderately cool temperatures of the past several weeks have lead to seedhead development in lawns. The dry weather in many areas of the state has accentuated seedhead development. Seedhead development is also greater in those lawns that receive little or no nitrogen fertilizer. The presence of high nitrogen levels delays plant maturation and reduces seedhead formation.

When seedheads are allowed to mature in lawns, they do so at the expense of the lawn's health. The production of seeds requires carbohydrates. Thee carbohydrates are derived from other plant parts, such as the crown and rhizome. These two plant parts are important in the recovery from summer dormancy. The turfgrass plant regenerates new plants from buds on the crown and from nodes on the rhizome. This regeneration is important when the plant is injured by drought, high temperature stress, insects or any other type of injury to the turf. Therefore, if the plant utilizes most of the carbohydrates for seed production, it will be done at the expense of the crown and rhizome and ultimately the health of the plant.

Lawns that have been allowed to grow tall and form seedheads should be mowed as soon as possible. Set the blade as high as possible, then gradually reduce the height of the grass in later mowings. The recommended cutting height for bluegrass lawns during the summer months is approximately 3 inches.

If standard lawn maintenance practices, such as fertilization and proper mowing, don't improve the quality of the turf, home gardeners should renovate their lawn in late summer or early fall. Also, the factors responsible for the thinning of the lawn should be identified and corrected prior to renovation.

There are many type of insects that like to invade our homes during the summer but few want to stay over the winter. Pantry and cabinet beetles are the exception. You may have seen them in grain products (cereals, cornmeal, popcorn, rice, dried fruits, ready-to-eat breakfast cereal, pasta, crackers, dried dog and cat food and other foodstuff) in your kitchen. Contrary to popular belief those little tiny bugs are not inherently part cereal and grain products. They are invaders... wanderers constantly looking for a new home and when they find one their population build-up is rapid.

The most common have names like merchant grain beetles, sawtooth grain beetles, flour beetles and cabinet beetles. By any name without the aid of a microscope, the adult beetle looks like a tiny reddish-brown speck and the offspring look like little whitish worms with brown heads called larvae. The adults have the ability to chew through unopened paper boxes, cellophane, plastic, aluminum foil and cardboard. Some are even strong enough to bore through the thickness of an oatmeal box.

Once inside the food product they set up housekeeping. They eat, lay eggs, eat some more and then they may bore their way back out of the box to the next box, just because they like to roam around. Sometimes all life stages can be found in a single box of cereal (egg, larva, pupa and adults). These tiny beetles can also be seen crawling around the cabinet shelves or leaving the pantry to fly about the rest of the house. Because they are attracted to light, you may find them flying around lamps and ceiling fixtures as well.

Cooks usually discover them in food products as they are preparing meals. For instance, while pouring macaroni from a contaminated box, one may see little whitish larvae with dark heads and the smaller adult beetle (brown speck) floating in the cooking water. With lightly infested foods, some cooks scoop out the insect and larvae and continue with the cooking process. However it is not recommended. According to Dr. Phil Nixon, Entomologist at the University of Illinois, "insect infested food should not be eaten."

How do you get rid of these invaders? Start by removing all food, food packages, utensils, dishes, etc., from the shelves. Using a strong suction vacuum cleaner with the proper attachment, clean up all spills, crumbs and pay special attention to all cracks and crevices in the storage area. Clean shelves with warm, soapy water and replace shelf paper. Immediately dispose of the vacuum bag outside, because they will walk out of the vacuum cleaner right back into your kitchen.

To help prevent infestations:

• Buy dry foods in small quantities so that it will not remain unused for long periods.

• If dry foodstuff is kept for long periods, remove from original containers and store in airtight glass, metal or heavy plastic containers, refrigerate or store in freezer.

• Keep cabinets clean by wiping up spills immediately and give storage cabinets a thorough cleaning at least once a year.

Use of insecticides is discouraged around food materials. Remember, household insecticides have no effect on insects inside food packages anyway. If the infestation continues after these efforts, call a licensed pest control operator who is trained in solving such problems.

Source: Phil Nixon, PhD. Entomologist, University of Illinois

Testing 1, 2, 3
If you are trying to determine the ripeness of a whole watermelon, forget about thumping it. Instead look for a yellow belly. According to Horticulture Educators at the University of Illinois Extension, a sweet juicy watermelon is one that has sat in the sun until it is ripe. While the sitting is going on, the underbelly is the only part that is not exposed to the sun - thus the yellowish color. A fully ripe watermelon will have a butterscotch colored belly. A white or green belly means the watermelon is not ripe. Watermelons, unlike cantaloupes, do not improve in flavor or get any sweeter after harvest.

After selecting the best watermelon available, get it home as soon as possible. Wash under clear running water, wipe dry and refrigerate. A fresh watermelon will keep in the refrigerator for 4 to 5 days. Watermelons are low in calories, high in Vitamins A and C, potassium, iron and fiber. In the southern states it is referred to as the "food of the angels." Enjoy plenty of watermelon this summer. July is peak seasons.

Summer Fruit Cooler

2 cups seedless watermelon chunks, strawberries, mango chunks or other fruit

1/4 cup white grape juice concentrate, undiluted and thawed

4-5 ice cubes

1. Place the fruit chunks on a plate or tray and freeze for about an hour. This can be done in advance the day before.
2. Place frozen chunks in a food processor or blender, add grape juice concentrate and 4-5 ice cubes. Process on liquefy or high for 20 seconds. Pour into chilled glasses and serve.

Note: The unused portion of grape juice concentrate can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Use as needed to make more fruit coolers.

Barbeque sauce on that new white polo and ice cream dripped down the front of your sundress...what to do? It is so easy if you know how. Guest author, Susan Taylor, Extension Educator, Consumer and Family Sciences knows how. Follow her instructions and visit The Thrifty Living website at:

www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/thriftyliving/tl-clothingstains

for more summer food stain removal information from Susan.

Ice Cream and Other Dairy Products
Fresh stains should be soaked and agitated in cold water before washing. If stain is dried, scrape or brush off any crusted matter. Soak for up to several hours in cold water with a detergent or an enzyme presoak. Launder in warm water. If stain remains, soak an additional 30 minutes and rewash. If color stain remains, launder with bleach safe for the fabric.

Fruit and Fruit Juices
Launder with detergent in the hottest water safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent. Soak tough stains for 30 minutes in one quart of warm water and one teaspoon of enzyme presoak product. To remove old or set stains may require washing with bleach that is safe for the fabric. If all the sugars are not removed a brown stain will appear when the fabric is heated in the dryer or is ironed, as the sugar is caramelized.

Grass Stains
Soak in a solution of cool water and a laundry product containing enzymes for at least 30 minutes (several hours for aged stains.) Do not use hot water as it will coagulate protein and make stain more difficult to remove. If stains remain, soak an additional 30 minutes, then rewash. Follow product instructions. Some laundry detergents contain enzymes. After soaking, launder in warm water as usual.

Mud
Let mud stains dry. Brush to remove the soil. Soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1 teaspoon liquid dish detergent and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 15 minutes. Rinse with water. Let stand for several minutes. If stain remains, sponge with rubbing alcohol, rinse with clear water and launder. Also may soak stain for 30 minutes in an enzyme presoak. Add chlorine bleach to laundry if safe for fabric.

Barbeque Sauce and Other Tomato Based Sauces
Soak in cool water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid hand dishwashing detergent and 1 tablespoon vinegar for 30 minues. Rinse. If stain remains, pretreat area with a prewash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent or a paste of powdered detergent and water. Then wash in warm water. Air dry. If stain remains, soak in an enzyme product for at least an hour or overnight. Some detergents contain enzymes. Launder in warm water. Do not use hot water, hot air drying or iron until the stain is gone. Heat will set it.
No endorsement of companies or their products mentioned is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar companies or their products not mentioned.

Examples of Products
Enzyme presoak products Biz bleach, Axion
Prewash stain remover/petroleum-based pre-treatment solvent such as Aerosol Shout, Spray 'n Wash,
K2r Spot Lifter

Detergents
Heavy duty liquid detergents All, Cheer, Era, Tide, Wisk
Light duty liquid detergents Ivory, Lux, Woolite
Powdered detergents Amway, Cheer, Dash, Woolite, Tide,
Bleaches

Bleaches
Hydrogen peroxide is the mildest bleach.
Powdered all-fabric bleach - sodium Biz, Borateem, Clorox 2
perborate
Liquid all fabric bleach Clorox 2, Vivid
Liquid chlorine bleach-sodium Clorox, Purex
hypochlorite

Use More Fresh Herbs

Use fresh herbs in any recipe calling for dried herbs by using triple the amount. For example: if a recipe calls for 1 teaspoon dried oregano, use 3 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano or 1 tablespoon.

Use several branches of fresh rosemary tied together as a brush for foods on the grill. It adds a light rosemary flavor without overpowering the taste of meat, fish or grilled vegetables.

Accounting for Taste Buds
Taste researchers have found that our taste buds detect sweetness in foods even if only 1 part in 200 is sweet. We can also detect saltiness in 1 part in 400 sourness in 1 part in 130,000 and bitterness can be tasted in as little as 1 part in 200,000. And why do the same foods taste different to different people? That answer may lie in the fact that the number of taste buds that detect sweet, sour, salty and bitter will vary from person to person. Also there are slight differences in the distribution of taste buds on the tongue.
Irena Chalmers, The Great Food Almanac: A Feast of Facts From A to Z

Too Many Eggs Is Still Unhealthy
If recent media reports have left you confused about healthy eating and eggs, you are not alone. The current slant is toward the mistaken idea that it's "ok to eat an egg a day." Well, that could be true only if you consider the other foods you eat daily. The American Heart Association's (AHA) long-standing recommendation is to limit dietary cholesterol to less than 300 mg daily. A single egg contains about 213 mg of cholesterol. So an egg can fit in your diet if cholesterol from other sources, such as meat, poultry, dairy products and baked goods, are limited.

Making choices within the context of your total eating plan is what's been left out of the media reports. On days when you have an egg for breakfast try to make your remaining food choices low in saturated fat and cholesterol. Also adding an abundance in fruits, vegetables, whole grains, low-fat dairy products, lean meats, or some poultry and fish would be wise.

For more online information visit StrokeAssociation.org or ninds.nih.gov or call 1-888-4STROKE.

Heart & Stroke News, American Heart Association: Spring, 2002

...there is a white cranberry juice on the market? Yes, Ocean Spray has released a new line of white cranberry juice. How do they do it? Well, it does not come from albino berries; rather it is made from immature cranberries, which are still blond in color. Harvested a few weeks before the crimson color develops, the juice of this berry is almost colorless. The resulting albino cranberry juice, which, by the way, is milder in taste, is then mixed with white grape juice concentrate for added sweetness and flavor. It is marketed as White Cranberry Juice Cocktail. Still only 10% fruit juice.

...food packages often lie about their ingredients? There ought to be a law against it! For example: Quaker "Fruit & Creamy" Instant Oatmeal - Strawberries & Cream variety contains no strawberries and likewise, the Peaches & Cream does not contain peaches. The little red things are dehydrated apples that are dyed red and the peach colored things are dehydrated apples dyed peach colored. To know what you are getting, read the ingredient list. It is a part of all food packages by law.
Nutrition Action Health Letter, July/August 2001 Volume 28/
Number 6 Center for Science in the Public Interest.

...that more wieners are made from whole meats these days instead of scraps? Whole lean meat cuts produce wieners with more protein and less fat. Convention has it that hot dogs were made from unrecognizable animal parts, organs and leftover trimmings. This is no longer common. You can avoid the scraps by reading ingredient labels and staying away from products that list 'variety meats" (hearts, snouts, spleens, tripe, etc.) And "by products" (fat, glands, gristle and partially defatted fatty tissue) - all USDA inspected, of course.