Symptoms of Dutch elm disease (DED) generally begin in early summer. The Plant Clinic has received several positive cases in the last few weeks and the Morton Arboretum in northern Illinois also reports many. Monitor elms for development of DED. It is not likely that you will be able to save the infected tree, but you can help nearby healthy elms.

American elms are very susceptible to the DED fungus. Although Chinese elm and Siberian elm are known to be more resistant, infection of these species can occur. Breeding programs have produced the more resistant Sapporo Autumn Gold, American Liberty and Urban elms. Ask about DED resistance when purchasing elms.

Dutch Elm Disease is caused by the fungus, Ophiostoma ulmi (Ceratocystis ulmi). The fungus works much as the other vascular pathogens, causing plugging of the vascular tissues and resultant wilting and death of foliage. Watch for yellowing of the elm leaves, followed by wilting and browning. A single branch usually shows symptoms first (called flagging), with rather rapid spread to adjacent branches and the entire tree. Look for vascular discoloration to help with diagnosis of this disease. As with oak wilt DED causes a streaking of the sapwood. Peel the bark of a symptomatic branch to reveal the brown streaks in the otherwise tan outer sapwood. Verticillium wilt and Dothiorella wilt can also cause this streaking in elm. Positive identification requires laboratory culturing of the fungus; this service is offered by the University of Illinois Plant Clinic. Cut several 6 to 8 inch long sections from wilting, but living, branches that show definite streaking in the sapwood, but send sections you have not peeled. The fresh wood sections should be thumb thickness and can be sent in plastic or foil to the Plant clinic for testing. Chilling the wood is necessary for oak wilt suspects but should not be necessary with Dutch elm suspect samples. Expect about 7 days of lab time for the fungus to grow to the point where it can be positively identified. There is a $12.50 fee for this service.

There are no chemicals available to homeowners for control of DED. Some products are available to commercial applicators. These products are used as preventive or therapeutic treatments when the disease is caught early.

Call our office, 773-233-0476 to receive more information about Dutch Elm Disease.

Source: Nancy Pataky, University of Illinois Extension

This is a persistent disease of roses that causes the new growth to appear deep red, both on leaves and stems. Leaves may show crinkling, distortion or a mosaic of green, yellow and red. An infected plant produces numerous lateral shoots, giving the plant a witches' broom appearance. These shoots are typically deep red and much larger in diameter than the canes from which they grow. Thorns on these stems are more numerous than normal, giving the stem an almost hairy appearance. Plants usually die within about 22 months of infection. Rose rosette is caused by a double-stranded RNA, which means that it is a virus like disease. It cannot be cultured in a lab and confirmation of the disease by the Plant Clinic is based purely on symptomatology.

Multiflora rose is the most common host of this disease, but it has been reported on cultivated flowering varieties as well. Climbers, hybrid teas, floribundas, miniatures and a number of old variety roses have been infected. Hybrid teas typically show a color that is more yellow than red. So far, no other host besides rose has been found. Our clinic has seen a few cases of this disease on hybrid roses in the past few years. Because the symptoms are so striking, nurseries often spot this disease and quickly rogue out infected plants, helping to keep the disease in check.

The vector of this disease is an eriophyid mite, a mite so small that 20 could fit on a pinhead. Eriophyid mites are much smaller than red spider mites, which are commonly seen on plants. Grafting may also spread rose rosette disease.

Currently, infected plants cannot be salvaged. Plants with symptoms should be dug up and destroyed (including roots) when first noticed. Remember, these plants are going to die soon anyway. It is strongly suggested that multiflora and garden roses be separated as far as possible from each other. The efficacy of mite control has been questioned in control of this disease; but if miticides are used, research suggests that the critical mite transmission time is May and June. So concentrate your efforts in those months.

For more information of this disease, call our office at 773-233-0476.

Source: Nancy Pataky, University of Illinois Extension

Imagine eating a crisp, juice slice of watermelon on a hot summer's day and receiving great health benefits at the same time! Well, you do.

An all-American favorite, watermelon is highly nutritious and packed full of the phytochemical lycopene. It's one of the few foods that contain it in large amounts. Other good sources include tomatoes, red and pink grapefruit and guava. Lycopene is a red pigment that occurs naturally in certain plant and algal tissues. In addition to giving watermelon and tomatoes their color, it is also thought to act as a powerful antioxidant. Lycopene scavenges reactive oxygen species, which are aggressive chemicals always read to react with cell components, causing oxidative damage and loss of proper cell function.

Many epidemiological studies have concluded that a diet rich in fruits and vegetables reduces the incidence of heart disease and cancer in humans. Scientists have found that lycopene in the diet correlates with reduced incidence of certain types of cancer. And lycopene levels in fat tissue - an indicator of lycopene consumption - have been linked with reduced risk of myocardial infarction (heart attack).

Most clinical research dealing with lycopene has used tomatoes as the food source. But Agricultural Research Service scientists at the South Central Agricultural Research Laboratory (SCARL) in Lane, Oklahoma and at the Phytonutrients Laboratory in Beltsville, Maryland, are working to determine lycopene levels in varieties of watermelon. They also want to assess its bioavailability, that is, how well the human body digests and uses it. Funds for the studies were provided in part by the NATIONAL Watermelon Promotion Board.

A trio of ARS scientists - plant physiologist Penelope Perkins-Veazie, food technologist Julie K. Collins and entomologist Sam D. Pair, research leader at SCARL - grew, evaluated and analyzed 13 watermelon cultivars at the Oklahoma laboratory to establish the relative effect of genetic background on lycopene content. The 13 cultivars included 11 red-fleshed and 2 yellow-fleshed types as well as seedless, open-pollinated and hybrid types representing seasonal production periods.

The researchers used tristimulus colorimeter readings - a relatively inexpensive method to measure visible color in the cut melons - and compared the measurements to the amounts of lycopene extracted from the melons. Lycopene content varied widely among cultivars and types, but the seedless ones tended to have more. Researchers found that watermelon has as much or more lycopene as raw tomatoes and that the amount depends on both variety and growing conditions.

But Can We Digest and Use It?

In late summer of 2000, ARS nutritionist Beverly A. Clevidence and chemist Alison J. Edwards of the Phytonutrients Laboratory began a 19 week study of 23 healthy adults to assess the bio-availability of lycopene from watermelon.

The scientists used tomato juice as the known benchmark for judging the relative bioavailability of lycopene.

Twelve female and 11 male, nonsmoking adults, ages 36-69, participated in the study. All ate a controlled weight maintenance diet along with watermelon juice at the study facility during the three treatment periods. The watermelon juice was prepared at ARS' Citrus and Subtropical Products Laboratory in Winter Haven, Florida. The juice was bottled and frozen immediately without pasteurization and defrosted just before it was consumed. The scientists then analyzed the lycopene content of the juice.

Blood and fecal samples were collected at the study's onset and then weekly during each treatment period.

Participants completed three 3-week regimens, each preceded by a washout period during which they received a minimal amount of dietary lycopene. In a random order, all volunteers received the
W-20 treatment (20 milligrams of lycopene a day from watermelon juice) and the C-0 treatment (control, no juice). In addition, they received either the W-40 treatment (40 milligrams of lycopene a day from watermelon juice) or the T-20 treatment (20 milligrams of lycopene a day from tomato juice).

The investigators found that all juice treatments increased the plasma concentration of lycopene. Lycopene concentration was similar regardless of whether subjects consumed 220 milligrams of lycopene from tomato juice or from watermelon juice, which was not heat-processed.

The investigators had expected lycopene availability to be greater from tomato juice because it had received heat treatment, which is believed to improve lycopene bioavailability.

"To our knowledge, this is the first study to show that lycopene from watermelon is bioavailable," says Clevidence. "Next, we would like to find out of plasma lycopene levels are higher when people eat watermelon with a meal containing fat than when they eat it by itself."

Hooray for Watermelon!
Watermelon is fat free and is a source of vitamins A, B6, C and thiamin. Studies have shown that a cup and a half of watermelon contains about 9 to 13 milligrams of lycopene. On average, watermelon has about 40 percent more lycopene than raw tomatoes. Red, ripe flesh is the best indicator of the sweetest and most nutritious watermelon, though it's hard to choose the ripest melon when it's uncut.

We think there are a lot of potential uses for watermelon that are just beginning to be explored," says Perkins-Veazie. "It can be a so-called functional food - one that can help prevent certain diseases."

There is commercial interest in producing watermelon juice. A company in California has perfected a great-tasting, all-natural version that is already selling in California and Oregon.
Source: Agricultural Research, June 2002

Japanese beetle and masked chafer adults are attracted to turf with moist soil. The females tunnel into the soil to lay their eggs; moist soil is surely easier to dig through than hard, dry soil. In addition, the eggs dry up and die under very dry soil conditions. The eggs also die when soil temperatures are around 90°F. Higher soil temperatures are typically associated with drier soils, as well as high air temperatures.

After a wet spring with lush grass, much of Illinois has turned typically dry and hot for the white grub egg-laying period. Under dry conditions, the adult beetles seek golf courses, irrigated lawns and other watered turf to lay their eggs. This results in high white grub populations in these areas in August, causing turf damage in late summer and fall. When there is sufficient rain and moderate temperatures in July, the turf stays green and actively growing in unwatered areas. The beetles lay their eggs over large areas, with the result that few areas have grub numbers high enough to cause damage.

Both the northern and southern masked chafers occur throughout Illinois. These 1/2 inch long, tan, stocky June beetles emerge and start laying eggs in late June in southern Illinois, in the first week of July in central Illinois and in the second week of July in northern Illinois. If one goes out about 10:30 pm and shines a light just above the turf, these beetles can be seen flying low over the turf. Because the adults do not feed, egg-laying occurs for only about two weeks before the adults die. Their larvae are commonly referred to as annual white grubs.

Japanese beetle adults emerge throughout the state slightly earlier, having emerged in southern Illinois in the third week of June, central Illinois in the last week of June and northern Illinois at the beginning of July. Although the adults feed and are numerous for six weeks or so, eggs appear to be laid primarily during the first half of July. This results in Japanese beetle white grubs appearing in August at about the same time as annual white grubs.

In areas with hot, dry weather, it is likely that grub numbers will be high this year in irrigated turf. During July, apply imidacloprid (Merit) or halofenozide (Mach 2, Grubex) to prevent later grub problems. It is best to water the insecticide in if rainfall does not wash it into the root zone within a few days. Insecticide sitting in full sunlight is likely to break down under the ultraviolet light. Another reason to water it in with at least 1/2 inch of water is that no grubs are being killed while the insecticide is sitting on the grass blades and thatch. Scout these areas in early August and treat spots with high grub numbers with trichlorfon (Dylox).

Source: Phil Nixon, Morton Arboretum

July

• Irrigation (as needed or allow lawn to go dormant)
• Monitoring for pests/problems (sod webworm)

August

• Monitor for pests (annual white grubs mid-August thru September). (Sod webworm)
• Irrigation (as needed)
• Prepare for seeding, overseeding (optimum time).

Catfaced Tomatoes

Several tomato samples showing catface symptoms have been submitted to the Plant Disease Clinic. This problem seems to be most common on large fruited tomato varieties.

Affected fruit show leathery scars, bulges or holes at the blossom end of the fruit. Photos of the samples submitted can be found at the Plant Disease Clinic website under Disease of the Week. It is believed that the deformity is caused by cold weather that occurs at the time of fruit set. Cells that should develop into fruit are injured. Catfacing is most common on the fruit that are formed first.

Harvesting and Drying Herbs

Most herbs can be cut and used fresh throughout the growing season. They can also be harvested, dried and stored for use during the winter months.

Many herbs such as sage, rosemary and basil are grown for their leaves. These herbs should be harvested when their flower buds are just beginning to open. The oils in the leaves which give each herb its distinctive flavor and aroma are at their maximum levels at this stage of growth. Remove approximately 1/3 of the current year's growth on perennial herbs. Annual herbs can be cut back more severely. Make the cuts on annuals approximately 4 to 6 inches above the soil surface. The annuals can be cut at ground level when harvesting in the fall before the first frost. Most annual and perennial herbs can be harvested in mid-summer and again in the fall. Herbs should be harvested in the early morning, after the dew has evaporated but before the sun becomes hot. After harvesting, rinse the herbs in cool water. Shake off excess water and place them on paper toweling to dry for a few minutes.

Air drying is the most popular method to dry herbs. To dry whole branches or stems, gather 8 to 12 stems in a bunch. Tie the ends of the stems together and hang each bunch upside down in a warm (70 to 80°F), dark, well-ventilated location. The herbs should be dry in 2 to 4 weeks. When thoroughly dry, strip the leaves from the plants. Crush or crumble the leaves and store in airtight jars in a cool, dry place.

Another way to dry herbs is to place them on a drying tray. A simple drying tray consists of fine mesh screen or cheesecloth attached to a wooden frame. A small window screen also works well. Place wooden blocks under the corners of the drying tray to insure good air circulation. Place a single layer of leaves or stems on the drying surface and keep the herbs in a warm, dry area until they are thoroughly dry.

A gas or electric oven can also be used to dry herbs. To oven dry, spread a layer of leaves or stems on a cookie sheet or shallow baking pan. Place the herbs in a warm (up to 180°F) oven for 3 to 4 hours. Leave the oven door open and stir the herbs periodically until they are thoroughly dry.

Some herbs, such as dill, caraway and coriander, are valued for their seeds. Harvest the seedheads just before they turn brown. Cut off the entire seedhead and place it in a paper bag. Then place the bags in a warm, dry location. After drying, shake the seeds loose in the bag. Remove any chaff by pouring the seeds from one container to another outdoors in a light wind.

Call our office, 773-233-0476, for more information.

Grease Ants Are Still a Problem

If we can invent a non-stick frying pan, why can't we invent an easy cure for grease ants!?!

Grease ants are one of our most persistent and difficult to control species. Grease ants are technically known as thief ants. They are very small and at only 1/16 inch in length, are easy to overlook except for the large numbers that appear simultaneously to form foraging trails from food sources to the nest. Grease ants are smooth and shiny and may be yellow to light or dark brown. Indoor nests are located in cracks and crevices of walls and cabinets, under floors and behind baseboards. Exact nest location are rarely known. The ants travel great distances in search of food. Though they will eat almost anything, these ants prefer to eat grease, fats and meats.

Our best success at controlling grease ants has come by using insecticide bait. Several applications are usually necessary to eliminate a colony as re-appearance of the ants after a week to 10 days is common. Sprays of residual insecticide such as "ant and roach killer" applied into cracks and crevices in the vicinity of the nest may also be effective.

Most available ant baits, such as Terro®, can be mixed with a grease or oil to make them more attractive to grease ants. Any grease or oil that can be mixed with the bait should be effective. I suggest vegetable oil or peanut butter. The bait oil mixture must contain enough grease to be attractive, but not so much as to over-dilute the active ingredient. Though exact proportions of the most effective mixture are not known. I suggest starting with one drop of oil to 5 drops of bait. If ants are not attracted to this mixture, try another oil or increase the amount of grease in the mixture.

Small amounts of the bait and oil can be mixed together on wax paper and then transferred to the area of ant activity. The bait can be placed on small squares of paper, the non-sticky side of small masking tape strips or directly on the ant trail. Use baits with care. Make sure the bait is out of the reach of children and pets. When ant activity has ceased, carefully dispose of the remaining bait.

Slime Molds

Slime molds have been appearing, causing concern among some gardeners. Slime molds can be common on mulch or on low-lying vegetation, especially after rains or after watering plants in warm, humid weather. These primitive organisms start out bright and slimy, usually yellow or orange, and take up an area from several inches to more than a foot. The slimy stage eventually dries and the slime mold organism develops into a colorful structure filled with dark, dusty spores.

Slime molds are not plant disease causing organisms. They get their food from decaying organic matter and other organisms found in the soil. Slime molds might be classified as a curiosity or a temporary nuisance. Chemical controls are not necessary. Slime molds can be left to run their course. If their appearance is bothersome, the fruiting bodies can be collected and thrown away or you can simply break them up with a vigorous raking.

Insects Pests at Hummingbird Feeders

Wasps such as yellowjackets, bees and ants can be common nuisance pests at hummingbird feeders (sugar solution dispensers). While these scavenger insects may have little impact on hummingbirds, they do occasionally interfere with the bird-watcher's enjoyment of the backyard feeder. In addition, ants often climb inside a hummingbird feeder and drown creating an unsightly mess that necessitates frequent cleaning and replacement of the solution. Tolerating insects at a bird feeder may be the most practical and efficient solution to this perceived "problem." Alternative solutions are described below.

"Bee guards" are available for most current hummingbird feeders and can be purchased at bird feeder retail outlets. Bee guards are small red or yellow perforated plastic caps that fit over or into each feeding tube like a grate. Hummingbirds are able to feed from grated feeder by reaching their slender beaks through the square holes of the grate to the solution deeper within. Insect mouth parts are generally too short to reach the solution. Bee guards do help keep bees away to some extent. However, wasps are not so easily discouraged and may persist in trying to feed on the sugar water. Wasps and the hummingbirds occasionally "argue" over feeder tubes. Fortunately the "hummers" are persistent and usually manage to find a spot with no wasps.

Several "barriers" have been suggested to keep ants from climbing onto hummingbird feeders and eating the sugar water and/or drowning in the bottle. If the feeder is hanging from a metal pole you might discourage ants (as well as chipmunks, squirrels and raccoons) by "painting" the feeder pole with Tangle-foot® or Tack-Trap®, extremely sticky grease products used to coat the inside of insect traps. Presumably, you can use cooking oil on the pole but it must be reapplied frequently. Another suggestion is to suspend the feeder on a short length of mono-filament line (fishing line) and then coat just the string with vegetable oil. Some feeders come with a small oil reservoir ("ant moat") built into the suspension wire. A homemade ant moat could be fashioned from a plastic jar lid and wire or line.

Colchicum

Spring-flowering bulbs, such as tulips and daffodils, are familiar to all gardeners. Though not widely planted, the attractive flowers and unique life cycle of the autumn crocus or colchicum make it a welcome addition to the garden.

It produces pink to lavender crocus-like flowers in the fall. The flowers arise directly from the corm. There is no foliage present when the plants are in bloom. The dark green leaves (approximately 1 to 2 inches wide and 10 to 12 inches long) emerge in the spring, remain until summer, then turn yellow and die to the ground. After which, the flowers magically appear in the fall.

Colchicum should be planted immediately after delivery in August or September. (They often bloom in their shipping container if not planted immediately.) Plant the corms in well-drained soils in full sun to partial shade. Good planting sites include naturalized areas under the filtered shade of large trees and shrubs, in rock gardens or among low-growing groundcover such as sedum. For the best visual display, plant colchicum in clumps. The corms should be planted 2 to 3 inches deep and 6 inches apart.

Gardeners can choose from several excellent cultivars. Colchicum autumnale 'Album' produces pure white flowers. 'Alboplenum' has double, white flowers. The flowers of 'The Giant' are 10 to 12 inches tall and violet with a white throat. 'Lilac Wonder' bears large, rosy-purple flowers. 'Waterlily' produces double, lilac-pink flowers which resemble a water lily. Colchicum autumnale and the aforementioned cultivars are hardy in USDA Hardiness Zone 5.

Colchicums are native to Europe and northern Africa. The scientific name comes from Colchis, an ancient country bordering on the Black Sea, now part of the Georgian Republic, where colchicums are abundant.

The dried corms and seeds of colchicums are the source of medicinal colchicum. It is also the source of colchicine which is used in plant breeding to induce polyploids.

Cool Peppers Have Flavor - Not Heat

New peppers have been bred with the jalapeño taste just right for tomato-based salsas, but they don't have the heat -producing compounds known as capsaicinoids. To achieve just the right pungency, food processors add precise amounts of extracted capsaicin during manufacture. To appeal to those consumers who want milder ethnic flavors, these new peppers impart the taste of jalapeño - without the "fire" - to products such as salsa.

Now scientists are looking at how to maximize yields of these non-pungent jalapeños. Among other factors, they've been looking at planting dates and plant density. In two growing seasons, they found that more fruit was produced and higher yields obtained when plants were transplanted before June and in pairs.

July - Edible

Start a compost pile - factsheet available.
Watch for infestations of aphids on the undersides of leaves. Spray with a hard spray of water or insecticidal soap.

Watch for white butterflies around cabbage. They lay eggs and these hatch into cabbage worms. Control with BT Bacillus thuriengensis kurstaki.

Take the family to one of our local county fairs:

Champaign County Fair - July 19 - July 27 - 217-367-8461
DuPage County Fair - July 24 - July 28
Porter County Fair (Valparaiso, IN) July 18 - July 27

Give excess veggies to Plant a Row for the Hungry.
Call 773-233-0476 for drop off locations.

Pick tomatoes when they start to turn pink or squirrels will have a free meal.

July - Ornamental

Support tall growing flowers with stakes or tomato cages. Install the support early to allow the plant to grow into them.

Cut back shaggy looking marigolds, petunias, zinnias and impatiens. Cut them back halfway. In two weeks they will grow new floers.

Watch for slow moving metallic green and a bronze beetles. These are Japanese beetles. Pick them off plants.

Plant Resurrection lilies - factsheet available.

Divide and transplant spring flowering bulbs after foliage has died back.

Cut gladioli when the bottom buds begin to open.

Thin overgrown older shrubs by removing one-third of the older stems.

August - Edible

Cover sunflower seed heads with cheesecloth when birds start pecking, but also leave a couple heads for the birds. Heads are ready to cure when the backside of the head is brown and dry, with no trace of green. Cut off the seed head, leaving a foot or two of stalk attached. Hang it to cure–still in the cheesecloth-in a well-ventilated, warm location. When the backs are entirely brown and crisp, the seeds should snap out easily. Prepare mature seeds by covering unshelled seeds with salted water (2 quarts of water to 1/4 to 1/2 cup salt.) Bring to a boil and simmer two hours or soak in a salt solution overnight. Drain and dry on absorbent paper. Put sunflower seeds in a shallow pan in a 300 degrees F oven for 30 to 40 minutes or until golden brown, stirring occasionally. Take out of oven and add one teaspoon of melted butter or margarine to one cup of seeds. Stir to coat. Put on an absorbent towel. Salt to taste.

Plant greens, lettuce, kohlrabi, beets, spinach, turnips and radishes for fall harvest.

Plan a family outing to one of the following county fairs:

Kankakee County Fair - July 31 - August 4 - Fairgrounds
815-932-6714
Kendall County Fair - August 1 - August 4 - Fairgrounds
630-553-2860
McHenry County Fair - July 31 - August 4 - 815-338-5315
Will County Fair - August 21 - August 25
Lake County Indiana Fair (Crown Point, IN) - August 2 - August 11 - 219-663-3617
Illinois State Fair - August 9 - August 18 - 217-782-6661

Control weeds before they go to seed. Every weed that produces seeds means trouble in the vegetable garden next year.

August - Ornamental

Continue to dead head annual flowers. Leaving dead flowers on plants will stop new blooms from developing.

Cut strawflowers intended for dried flower arrangements when the blooms are only half open. Tie small bundles of the flowers together and hang them upside down in a well ventilated place to dry. Hanging in the sunlight may cause fading of colors. Call for a factsheet on drying flowers.

Allow lily stems to die down naturally. Cut the stems off 3-4 inches above the ground.

Divide iris, peonies and poppies. Lift the old iris rhizome. Cut the rhizomes apart into 3-4" sections with roots and a fan of leaves. Cut leaves back to 6-8" tall. Check rhizomes for firmness. Discard soft ones. Plant new rhizomes in sunny area. Dig a hole leaving a ridge of soil down the center of hole. Plant rhizome over the edge with roots spread out over either side. Rhizome should be planted one inch below soil surface and 18-24" apart.

Do not fertilize trees and shrubs. New growth would not have time to harden off before winter.

Order spring flowering bulbs to plant this fall.

Select trees for fall planting. Consider the mature size of the tree, insect and disease problems, flowers, fruits, growth rate, overall shape and site conditions, such as wet or dry soils and sun or shade. For a list of trees that should be used with caution in landscape areas call 773-233-0476. Seed lawns from mid-August through early September. For small areas in need of reseeding rake away debris, roughen the soil surface, spread the seed and water. If putting down sod, water new sod several times a day for 1-2 weeks until it begins to knit. Do not let sod dry out.

Do not apply fertilizer to roses after August 15. Fertilization after the 15th will cause soft, succulent growth that could be winter-damaged. You can apply fertilizer after roses have gone dormant. Fertilizer will be available as roses grow in spring. Spread the fertilizer in a band starting 6 inches from the crown, going out to about 18 inches. Work it in and water.

Midwestern Turfgrass Weed Identification and Control
Learn how to identify and control certain weeds.
http://www.turf.uiuc.edu/weed_web/index.htm

Iowa Insect Information Notes
Learn controls for the prevalent insect problems we hear about most often. http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/iiin/

Which type of orange juice do you prefer - frozen concentrate or chilled ready-to-drink? If you preferred chilled not from concentrate, which type of container do you buy - the screw-top plastic container or the re-sealable milk carton-type container? What are your preferences on? Does it make a difference? Well, according to researchers at Arizona State University East, there are differences. Investigators there tested several forms of orange juice from several types of containers over a 4 week period. They were checking to see how much Vitamin C remained during storage.

Vitamin C is a water soluble antioxidant that can be synthesized by many animals, but not by humans. It is sensitive to heat, light and it is destroyed over time when exposed to atmospheric oxygen (air). So it is logical to presume that over time chilled orange juice will retain less and less Vitamin C than it's fresh counterpart. But how much is lost? Rather how much is lost between purchase and the expiration date on the container?

Researchers tested 8 ounce servings of orange juice from frozen concentrate, chilled in screw top wax cartons, chilled in plastic containers and chilled in non re-sealable milk carton like containers. The results were a little more than disturbing.

• Reconstituted juice from frozen concentrate contained 85 mgs at initial preparation and 46 to 39 mgs after 4 weeks of storage.
• Chilled ready-to-drink in re-sealable screw top waxed cartons contained 65 mgs upon opening and 23 mgs after 4 weeks of storage.
• Chilled ready-to-drink in waxed milk carton-like non-resealable dropped 27 mgs to 9 mgs in 4 weeks.
• Chilled ready-to-drink in re-sealable screw top plastic (polyethylene) containers contained 54 mgs initially and bottomed out at 0 by week 4.

Once opened each brand of ready-to-drink juice was analyzed 3 times per week until expiration. Researchers estimated a 2% loss per day in all forms of juice over the 4 week period. Because chilled ready-to-drink orange juice is pasteurized, it always suffers heat induced destruction of Vitamin C during processing. Researchers estimated 25% less vitamin C per serving compared to frozen concentrate.

But wait! Don't march to the refrigerator and pour your orange juice down the drain. Although it may have lost Vitamin C, it still contains plenty of insensitive and very stable folate, potassium and Vitamin A as well as other nutrients. The bottom line – don't buy or reconstitute more orange juice than you can drink in about a week. If you buy chilled ready-to-drink juice, make sure it is purchased 3-4 weeks before the expiration date on the carton.

Since Vitamin C is poorly retained in the body, a fresh supply is needed each day. Two years ago the National Academy of Sciences Food and Nutrition Board increased the daily recommended intake for Vitamin C from 60 milligrams to 90 for men and 75 for women. Many food labels still do not reflect this increase. Remember, Vitamin C is added to many foods and it is found naturally in....green peppers, tomatoes, broccoli, kiwi, cantaloupe, citrus fruits and strawberries to name a few. So mix it up and eat a variety of Vitamin C rich foods. After all, variety is the spice of life.

Source: Journal of the American Dietetics Association, April 2002, volume 102, pgs. 525-529.

July and August are prime months for fresh garden produce. Sweet corn is so cheap you can get 20 ears for a dollar and you can't even give zucchini away. There are two ways to deal with this garden overflow: incorporate as much as possible into daily meals and preserve the rest for the winter.

Take zucchini for instance. If you only have one or two plants, you can easily incorporate them into zucchini muffins, a vegetable stir-fry or zucchini bread. Most recipes call for 1 or 2 cups grated or sliced zucchini or about one medium zucchini. But how many recipes call for 20 zucchini? The solution....freezing.

Zucchini-Oatmeal Muffins
Grate fresh zucchini and measure in 2 cup allotments. Place in zip-closure freezer bgs and freeze for up to 8 months. To use - thaw unopened bag in cold water for about 45 minutes then squeeze out excess water. Use the frozen zucchini to make muffins and/or zucchini bread until next summer's glut of zucchini arrives.

1/2 cup rolled oats
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup (heaping) pecan halves
1 large egg
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3 large egg whites
1 cup whole wheat flour
1/2 cup apple butter or
1 1/2 cups sugar applesauce
1/4 cup corn oil or canola oil
2 cups grated zucchini (1 medium)
1 Tablespoon baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Spray 16 muffin cups with nonstick cooking spray or line them with paper liners.
2. Spread rolled oats on half a cookie and spread pecan halves on the other side. Bake for 5 to 10 minutes, or until lightly toasted. Let cook for 5 minutes then chop pecans.
3. In a large bowl, stir together both flours, sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, salt, 1/2 cup oats and pecans.
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together eggs, egg whites, apple butter or applesauce and oil. Stir in zucchini.
5. Stir this mixture into flour mixture just until the flour is moistened. Spoon the batter into prepared muffin cups, filling them to about 3/4 full. Sprinkle with remaining oats. Bake 20 to 25 minutes, or until the tops are golden and spring back when lightly pressed.

Makes 16 muffins - Per muffin - 233 calories, grams dietary fiber; 5 grams protein, 6 grams fat; 42 grams carbohydrates; 215 mg sodium; 27 mg cholesterol.

What do you make for supper on nights when you do not feel like cooking anything at all....a sandwich! Truly the greatest convenience food is the "sandwich," without it there would be fewer fast food restaurants. And where did it come from? John Montague, the Earl of Sandwich, is credited with inventing the first sandwich over 240 years ago.

As the story goes, Montague was gambling one evening and was just too involved to leave the gaming table to have a meal. His very creative cook placed a few slices of roast beef between two pieces of toast and ta da! The sandwich was born. The idea spread rapidly throughout London and the name 'sandwich" stuck. Too bad, but the inventive cook who made the first sandwich must remain nameless to this day.

And who among us does not like a sandwich of some sort. Sandwiches are quick to make, easy to eat, portable and they can be personalized to fit every palette. A sandwich can also be a well-balanced and healthful meal if it doesn't involve too much fat. Let's look at the parts of a sandwich. The bread is the source of carbohydrates, the meat, or fish is the protein, cheese represents the milk group and vegetables such as tomato, lettuce, onions, sprouts and other greens provide vitamins, minerals and fiber.

Even the best sandwich is only as good as it's foundation – the bread. Bread is the holder of all parts, keeping everything together. Fortunately, there are many wonderful types of bread to choose from, even at the grocery store. Fucaccia, onion rolls, kaiser rolls, whole wheat bread, crusty baguettes, pita, ciabatta rolls and more provide the base for a great sandwich meal.

When preparing a sandwich, whether it is a classic or a new invention, keep these rules of engagement in mind:

• Spread mustard directly on the meat instead of the bread. The vinegar and spices will creep into the meat enhancing the flavor nicely while having less impact if spread on the bread side.
• Layer in logical order. Avoid putting bread spread with mayonnaise on top of the lettuce; you will wind up with the dreaded sliding sandwich.
• Sandwich spreads provide moisture. Be creative and make interesting spreads for your sandwiches instead of using regular, high fat and mayonnaise all the time. Mix equal parts low fat mayonnaise with sour cream and yogurt, add lots of chopped chives, salt and freshly ground pepper.
• Do not make the sandwich taller than the average mouth - spread - it will be messy. Unless, of course, you are up to the challenge of a Dagwood Bumstead sandwich, which should be eaten in the privacy of one's home.

When selecting raw materials try sliced cucumbers, shredded carrots or radishes, chopped scallions, plum tomatoes, avocado slices, arugula or spinach instead of just lettuce (thinly sliced apples are great on tuna). The same vegetable you like in a salad will work well on a sandwich too. So go ahead – make a sandwich for dinner tonight.

Make Your Own Seasoning Blend
Use bulk herbs and spices for this recipe, they can be found in the produce section of your local grocery store. Making your own blend is cheaper than commercial concoctions and you can adjust the proportions to suit your taste. Pour into a shaker and use in place of salt at the table.

This blend can be used as a rub for fish, meat and poultry - for baking, broiling or grilling. To use: Wash and dry meat surface with paper towels. Sprinkle rub on both sides, press into meat. Let stand for 20 minutes at room temperature or as long as 2 hours covered in the refrigerator. Careful, this rub browns quickly. For long cooking meats, sprinkle on half way through cooking. Can be used to season vegetables too.

Spicy Herb Blend (low sodium)

7 tablespoons paprika
6 tablespoons garlic powder
2-3 tablespoons ground cayenne pepper
6 tablespoons salt
5 tablespoons onion powder
3 tablespoons dried oregano, crumbled
3 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons dried thyme, crumbled

1. Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl and mix well.
2. Makes about 2 cups of seasoning. Store in an airtight container. Add some to a shaker for table use. Add a few grains of rice to help keep blend free flowing.
3. Serving size 1/4 teaspoon contains about 28 mg sodium*

*Note: One-teaspoon of regular table salt contains 2000 mg of sodium. One teaspoon Spicy Herb Blend contains 108 mg sodium. By comparison: one teaspoon Lawry's Seasoned Salt contains 1520 mg sodium.

Treating First Degree Burns
Summertime grilling and barbeques can leave you with battle scars. The best treatment for burns is cold water. Cold water will ease the pain as it cleanses the wound. If possible, immerse the burned area in cold water or ice water, or hold it under cold running water for 15 minutes. Or apply a cold compress, ice in a plastic bag, a package of frozen vegetables or a cold beer - whatever is available.

Do not apply butter, burn ointments or mayonnaise. These products contain oil and they will not relieve the pain. In fact oil-based products will trap heat, slow down healing and increase the risk of infection.

Why Is Salt Added to Butter?
Butter is available salted or unsalted. Salt is added to butter as a preservative. Companies add it to keep butter fresh longer on the shelf. However, salt can also mask the natural sweet flavor of butter. Another problem is that the amount of salt added to butter varies from one manufacturer to another. If you use butter in recipes from time to time, it is best to use unsalted butter. Fresh, unsalted butter keeps best in the freezer. Use zip-closure bags designed for freezing and freeze for up to 6 months. Thaw in the refrigerator.

August 7, 2002 (7 - 9 p.m.)

Freezing Fruits & Vegetables
Learn the special techniques and procedures to follow which will produce the best results. Recipes and taste testing.

September 25, 2002 (7 - 9 p.m.)

End of the Harvest
Preserve the last remnants of tomatoes to make green tomato pickles, collect a variety of vegetables to make a mixed Jardiniere and preserving the fall crops - apples, winter squash and pumpkin. Recipes and taste testing as well.

Both programs will be conducted at the University of Illinois Extension office located at 3807 West 111th Street in Chicago. There is a fee of $5 per class. Seating limited - Call 773-233-0476 for more information or to make a reservation.

...waterbeds are now available for cows? Yes, cows! According to the April 22 edition of Nutrition Week, companies are now selling waterbeds for cows in an effort to increase their comfort level. The waterbeds, which sell for $150 each, are actually rubber mats filled with 18 gallons of water. The "waterbeds" are supposed to give the cows a more comfortable place to rest while they produce milk. Thus far there are no statistics available as to the effectiveness of this practice in milk production...or calf production.

...honey has antibiotic healing properties? According to May Berenbaum, Ph.D., entomologist at the University of Illinois, "Honey has been used for centuries to treat a wide range of medicinal problems like wounds, burns, skin ulcers and scrapes." And now various researchers worldwide are also studying - and finding - strong antimicrobial properties in some honeys.

Honey fell from grace as a wound treatment during World War II with the development of antibiotic dressings. Now, with the rise of antibiotic-resistant bacteria, many are using the old folk remedy again. In 1999 the Australian Therapeutic Goods Administration, an agency comparable to our Food & Drug Administration, approved honey as a medicine.

...90% of all middle-aged Americans will develop high blood pressure? Based on current trends, data from the Framingham Heart Study suggests that adults between the ages of 45 and 55 will eventually develop hypertension. The trend is reversible. With dietary changes and increased activity, some people can prevent the development of high blood pressure.

Source: John Hopkins Medical Letter, Health After 50, Volume 14, Issue 4, June 2002.