Many clients bring samples to the University of Illinois Plant Clinic with dead leaves, stems that have lost all leaves, stems with cankered growth or stems indicating years of poor growth. Laboratory diagnosticians can work only with the sample received and nine times out of ten, the actual pathogen or insect is not on the sample submitted. We often (usually) need more information on what is happening at the site. Often, however, the person onsite does not know what to look for or what to convey to get the best help. Maybe this will help.

When the entire tree is affected, the injury or disease or insect logically must be affecting the trunk or the roots - an area that could cut off water to the entire tree. Look at the entire tree and compare it to nearby trees. Also consider when the problem started and what changed on the site about that same time. Healthy trees don't suddenly die because they are old. Many below ground reasons may cause tree decline. Drought, flooding, compaction of the root zone, poor soils, planting too deeply, inadequate space for roots and many more factors could be involved. Often, diagnosing such a problem is a process of elimination. One of the possibilities more difficult to eliminate is root rot. Most gardeners believe that they cannot possibly know the health of a mature tree's roots.

The first sign of any root problem is top decline. Look for a few clues to see if a tree is growing well. You can see a tree's annual growth by looking at the trunk cross-section. Most of us did this as children. We counted the number of rings to tell us how old a tree was when it died. We also looked at the thickness of these rings to compare relative growth between years.

A less destructive way to determine amount of growth is to look at the stems. Follow the stem tip back to the first set of closely aligned rings (about 1/8 inch apart) around the stem. That is a year's growth. Continue down the stem to the next set of rings for the next year's growth. Most trees grow from 6 to 18 inches of twig length in a year. Of course, this varies with the species and whether you are looking at a shady or sunny part of the tree. If the tree has grown only an inch of twig growth for the last 2 years and 8 inches 3 years ago, it is safe to say that the tree is under stress that was initiated 2 years ago. Cankers on the stems, stem tip dieback, off-color foliage, early fall color and early defoliation are also clues that a tree may be stressed by underground causes.

To detect the pathogenic wood rots and root rots, look for mushroomlike fungi growing at the base of the tree or shrub. In wood rot fungi, the conks (also called shelf fungi or fruiting bodies) may be found growing on the trunk or main branches. These are signs of the pathogen. The actual fungal mycelium is probably growing in or on the roots or internally in the wood. One of the most common examples is Ganoderma root rot, which produces a shelf type of fungal structure at the base of many trees, especially honeylocust. The structure is reddish brown and appears to have been varnished. Its presence indicates invasion by a root rot. Other fungi may indicate wood rots. Wet weather often triggers the formation of these structures. They could easily be confused with fungi growing on dead organic debris near a tree. If, however, they are growing from the tree itself, they are excellent signs of wood rot or root rot.

You can also do some careful digging in the root zone of a tree to try to determine root health. Do this near the drip line at two or three spots. Healthy roots are brown outside but white internally or at the tips. If roots have a soft, brown outer layer that easily pulls off, then a root rot may be involved. Digging with a hand trowel a few inches below ground around the trunk may reveal girdling roots, mechanical injuries or other clues to the cause of decline, such as deep planting. Some experts say that conks on a tree or root rot in the root system means a tree will soon die. That may be true, but such trees and shrubs may survive for many years. Do not remove a tree simply because it has a conk. Instead, use this as a diagnostic tool. If the tree becomes a threat to life or property because of its potential to fall or blow over, remove it as soon as possible.

No chemicals help a tree in decline. Use approved cultural practices to improve vitality, including watering in extended drought. Cut out dead branches in the dormant season, fertilize in late fall or early spring and keep traffic off the root system. For very old or large trees, fertilization and watering may have no benefit. Still, they may help it stay alive for years.

Source: Nancy Pataky, University of Illinois

Early fall is an important time for fertilizing home lawns. Fertilization is one of the primary lawn care practices. If done properly it has a major positive impact on lawn appearance, but if done improperly can lead to lawn problems. Following are some of the common questions and concerns related to fertilizing home lawns.

How exactly do I fertilize my lawn?

There are actually three parts to this answer. First, choose a quality fertilizer, then apply the right amount (rate) and apply at the right time of the season. Quality nitrogen fertilizers should contain controlled-release nitrogen. The amount or rate of nitrogen to apply is about one pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn area. Finally, some suggested times in the season for northern Illinois would be early May, early September and late fall (about Halloween).

What is the best fertilizer to use?

There is no one perfect or absolute best fertilizer to purchase for your lawn, but there are many good ones available. Nitrogen is the most important nutrient; percent nitrogen is expressed as the first number in the series of three on the fertilizer bag. What kind of nitrogen in the product is the key information, as there are fast-release and controlled release nitrogen sources. To find the answer, look in the guaranteed analysis section on the back of the bag. Key terms to look for include controlled-release, slow-release, slowly-available or water insoluble nitrogen. Some specific types that may be listed include ureaform, sulfur-coated urea, polymer-coated urea and IBDU (isobutylidenediurea). Several organic nitrogen sources are controlled release.

Most quality lawn fertilizers offer a balance of fast and controlled release sources to offer a fertilizer that will provide some quick color (without a big surge of growth) and some long-lasting nitrogen.

I don't want to burn my grass with high percent nitrogen fertilizer, so can I just use a 10-10-10 garden fertilizer?

The high percentage of nitrogen by itself is not a problem, assuming the amount put down on the lawn is adjusted accordingly. The higher the percent nitrogen, the less product is needed on the lawn to supply the one pound per 1,000 square feet rate suggested. In addition, if the material is controlled-release, the risk of burning the lawn is low even though the percentage nitrogen in the product may be high.

Balanced fertilizers, such as 10-10-10, have a N:P:K ratio of 1:1:1. The reason these are not suggested for repeated use on lawns is the amount of phosphorus applied, when supplying the one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, becomes quite high. Excess phosphorus may lead to potential runoff problems and more weeds in the lawn. Also, many of the all-purpose balanced fertilizers have only fast-release nitrogen as the nitrogen component, so the risk of burn may be higher.

Are organic fertilizers better than conventional fertilizers?

Whether a fertilizer is organic or synthetic, after applied to the lawn it must convert to a form the plant can use. Once converted, the plant does not know the difference as to the nitrogen source. One of the advantages associated with organic sources is low chance of burning grass. Some synthetic fast-release sources have high salt levels that increase the chances of burning. On the other hand, most synthetic controlled-release sources are very unlikely to burn grass.

A drawback of many organic nitrogen sources is the percent nitrogen is quite low, meaning it takes considerable material to be spread over the lawn to give the proper rate of nitrogen. Some materials, such as compost, are best used as a soil conditioner to improve soil quality, rather than to supply nutrients.

Furthermore, most organic and some synthetic fertilizer sources rely on soil microbes to break them down to release nitrogen, so they do not work when soils are cold. So as you can see, there are tradeoffs to consider when making these comparisons.

Are dry fertilizer products better than liquid?

To accurately answer this, you need to compare the guaranteed analysis in each product, not just the form they are applied. There are both fast and controlled-release nitrogen sources for liquid and dry (granular) application. So, in some cases granular can be better, but in other cases, the liquid material may be better than a granular it is compared with.

How do I know how much fertilizer to apply?

As mentioned earlier, the suggested rate per application is about one pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn. If fertilizers were 100 percent nitrogen, which they are not, it would take a pound of fertilizer to apply this rate. Divide 100 by the percent nitrogen in the bag (first number expressed a whole number) to figure how much is needed per 1,000 square feet. For example, a fertilizer with 20 percent nitrogen would require 100/20 or 5 pounds of fertilizer product per every 1,000 square feet of lawn.

The next figure needed is the total area or square footage of the lawn. Take your total lot size and subtract everything not in lawn to determine this figure. An acre is 43,560 square feet, if you know your lot expressed in a portion of an acre. Then subtract the square footage of the house, driveway, gardens, and patio. The other way to figure is just to measure dimensions of the lawn areas and calculate as square feet.

Once you arrive at the square footage in lawn, divide this by 1,000. Then multiply by the pounds of fertilizer needed per 1,000 square feet figured above. This gives you the approximate pounds of fertilizer needed to spread on your lawn.

Using the previous example of a 20 percent nitrogen fertilizer, let's walk through this. Dividing 100 by 20 gives 5, meaning 5 pounds of fertilizer is needed to supply one pound of actual nitrogen for every 1,000 square feet. If the lawn measures out to 12,000 square feet, dividing 12,000 by 1000 gives 12. Now take 5 times 12, which equals 60. This means it would take 60 pounds of fertilizer, spread over the 12,000 square foot lawn, to supply a rate of one pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.

Finally, most fertilizer bags give a spreader setting guide, which is usually calibrated to supply the one pound per 1,000 square feet rate, to help homeowners apply the right amount. The product label may tell you how much area the product will cover.

What about weed control and fertilizer products?

Weed and feed products are popular in that they provide fertilizer and weed control in one product. Early fall is a good time for controlling broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions and fertilizing. Read and follow all label directions.

Another fertilizer and herbicide product is the fertilizer and crabgrass control products sold in spring. These contain fertilizer and a pre-emergence herbicide for crabgrass control. Once again, read and follow all label directions.

There are many types of insects you might encounter in the year. While many of these insects are beneficial, some can actually be dangerous. One insect that is dangerous is the wasp.

In truth, most wasps typically ignore people. When wasps do sting, they are usually trying to defend their colony. This is especially true of social wasps. These are wasps that live together in colonies. These colonies or nests are football-shaped and can be found above or below the ground.

Wasps can be found in these nests well into the fall, but they do not survive the winter. A new queen will mate and leave the nest during the fall. Only the fertilized queen will survive the winter and begin new colonies in the spring.

Wasps that are social and live in nests include the European hornet, bald-faced hornet and the yellow jacket. Any of these wasps can and will deliver a painful sting if threatened. If you encounter a nest of these wasps, proceed with extreme caution.

Other wasps are solitary in nature. These wasps usually burrow a solitary nest into the ground. The female wasp will deposit her eggs in the nest, stocking it with insects such as cicadas.

Others will fly low over the lawn in search of grubs. In most cases, these wasps are non-aggressive and will only sting if they are mishandled. Wasps that are solitary in nature include the cicada killer and velvet ant.

Eliminating wasp nests can be dangerous. Large numbers of angry wasps can lead to many painful stings. If control is necessary, aerosols or pressurized sprays are available that can provide quick knockdown.

Apply wasp sprays at night when the workers are in the nest. Prop up a flashlight to illuminate the nest. Then, from a different location, apply the spray. Any wasps that exit the nest during the treatment will be attracted to the light. Wear heavy clothing and a bee veil to prevent stings. After treating the next, remove it so that pupae within the nest cannot re-establish the colony.

Solitary bees are attracted to sandy soil with spare vegetation. A good fertilizer program and adequate water will discourage burrowing. If numbers become too high, burrowing areas can be treated with Diazinon or Sevin.

Source: Mark Hoard, Integrated Pest Management Educator

Concerns are often raised about white grubs in lawns and ways to manage them. Late summer into early fall is the time white grub problems are most likely to show in lawns here in northern Illinois. While a relatively small percentage of lawns will actually get white grubs in a given year, this insect can cause serious damage when a significant population occurs on a lawn or other turf area.

Since white grubs are often asked about, the following questions have been summarized:

How do I know if I have grubs in my lawn?

White grubs feed on the roots of grasses, so lawns will show wilting and browning of irregular shaped areas. Certainly there could be many reasons for lawns browning, especially in late summer when most grub damage occurs. Always check the root zone of affected areas for the white, c-shaped grubs. Carefully pull back the sod in suspect areas, in particular the marginal areas where brown grass meets green grass and look for the grubs. Usually a population of about 10 or more grubs per square foot will lead to browning of the lawn. Keep in mind other factors that can lead to poor rooting and are mistaken for grubs. For example, lawns in shade areas often have weak roots and are pulled up easily. Grubs do not typically appear in shade lawns. Also, many lawns were easily pulled up this spring and grubs were blamed. Once grass dies, regardless of the cause, roots will rot away and the grass is very easy to tear out. So trying to diagnose grub damage from the previous season as the cause of a dead lawn area in spring is very difficult to do, even if limited roots are found in an area of dead grass.

Another sign of grubs is damage from skunks and raccoons digging up lawns in search of grubs to eat. This usually happens at night. Moles may or may not be feeding on grubs so, are not a reliable indicator of grub problems.

Why does my lawn have grubs but not my neighbor's?

Keep in mind the adult stage of the grub life cycle is a beetle, which can fly. Random chance is part of the answer. But adult beetles usually lay eggs in full sun lawn areas with adequate soil moisture. The masked chafer (annual white grub) and Japanese beetle lay eggs in July. So if the weather has been dry, but your lawn is watered and surrounded by dry lawns, it is a prime target for egg laying.

How can I predict if my lawn will have grub damage this year?

It is difficult, as insects can go in cycles and many factors influence the chances of grubs appearing in your lawn. Lots of adult beetles on the lawn in July is one indication. Masked chafers, the adult of the annual white grub, are tan beetles active shortly after sundown. Japanese beetles fly during the day and feed heavily on many ornamentals. Noting these adults and then having irrigated lawns surrounded by drier turf increases the chances of grub damage to your lawn. Watch lawns closely starting about mid-August and continuing into September for wilting and browning areas and then check the root zone for grubs.

Can I prevent grub damage?

There are some options to consider. One option is allowing the lawn to go into dormancy if conditions dry due to lack of rainfall in July, reducing the odds of grub damage since the adult beetles look for green lawns with good soil moisture for egg laying. The downside is the lawn will be brown and dormant. Also, this may not be reliable if rainfall keeps grasses green throughout July, although if all lawns are green, the chances of significant grub damage on any one lawn are low since the adult beetles tend to disperse and lay eggs over a much broader area under this scenario.

Another option is to closely monitor the lawn as we advance into late summer and be ready to act if grubs start to appear. Watch for grass areas going off-color and just starting to brown, in particular those areas that have been irrigated. Check the root zone for small white grubs. Insecticides such as diazinon or trichlorfon (Dylox) can be applied when grubs are first noticed to prevent large scale damage.

Other insecticides such as imidacloprid (Merit) or halofenozide (GrubEx) can be applied prior to noting damage, such as in late July to lawns likely to show damage (adult beetles present, irrigating lawn). All of these insecticides should be watered into the soil for best results. Lawns should also be watered prior to application.

With all insecticides, read and follow label directions. To confirm what a product contains as active ingredient, check the active ingredient section on the front of the label.

What about using organic controls for grub control?

Heterorhabditis bacteriophora nematodes have shown good results for white grub control. Nematodes are very small unsegmented worms. This particular species will search out white grubs and after entering the grub, release bacteria that kills the grub. This product is available in mail order catalogs, often sold as Hb nematodes. This product should be applied late in the day to lawns with adequate soil moisture and then watered in immediately.

What should be done after grub damage has occurred?

If significant grub damage has occurred, the lawn will need some renovation work in early fall. Rake away dead debris. Water the lawn area, as some of the grass with damaged roots may recover, especially if the weather cools down. Bare or thin areas may need some reseeding. Labor Day is a good target date for lawn renovation work in northern Illinois.

The following poem was sent to me by a lovely lady on the northside of Chicago. As many of you may be fighting violets in your lawn, this poem will give you a chuckle. I'm sure you will enjoy it and possibly share it with others.

Oh, little violet in my lawn,
Gee, how I wish that you were gone!
I strive to grow a carpet green
In which no weed nor blossom's seen.
You don't belong among these blades
Of grass...move to some place with shades
'Neath tree or bush, by rocks and rills,
Where passing strollers leap with thrills
When they spy your purple hue.
And gush aloud with "Ahhh!" and "Ooh!"
Come spring, I pray you'll not say "Hey,
I'm here again! Have a nice day!"
How you intrude, you wedge in so
That in your spot my grass can't grow!
Wish I could kill your kith and kin
And make of you a true has-been!
'Tis true, wee flower, shy and coy
You are State Flower of Illinois,
but seeing how you spit out seed
to me I class you as a weed!
Yes, fellow, I am not impressed,
Knowing how I must invest
In "goo" that will deweed the space
Except for your 'Can't-hurt-me" face!
You do thrust out your tongue and thrive,
And stay defiantly alive!
But, years ago, this wasn't thus,
For when I saw you, how I'd fuss!
I sang to you when but a kid.
I loved the way you shyly hid.
I shrieked with you to see your hue,
Where midst the concrete cracks you grew.
When young, I'd bunch you in a vase
And sketch your petaled purple face.
I plucked your blooms and whiffed your smell,
And pinned you to my coat lapel...
But that was long before I grew
This lawn that made a home for you,
Where you and all your progeny
Advanced like soldiers, daringly!
But, now I'm old...my lawn I prize,
I see it "green" my neighbor's eyes.
I use my waning energy
Defying your persistency,
As I get down on aching knees
And use old-fashioned elbow grease
to pry you and your heart out loose
and shout with glee...OUT, FIEND,
VAMOOSE

August

• Monitor for pests (annual white grubs mid-August thru September) (Sod webworm)
• Irrigation (as needed)
• Prepare for seeding, overseeding (optimum time)
• Seeding - latter half of month (optimum time)

September

• Overseeding & establishment (optimum time) - first week
• Fertilization (key time) - first 2 weeks
• Cultivation (aerification, spiking, slicing) - lawn should be actively growing
• Postemergence broadleaf weed control to actively growing weeds (optimum time)

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Lightning & Personal Safety

According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), there are over 25 million cloud to ground lightning flashes each year. Exceeded only by floods, lightning is the second largest killer associated with storms. Lightning reportedly kills an average of 73 people each year. Lightning kills by stopping the heart and damaging the nervous system. In non-fatal cases, people suffer permanent disabilities such as short-term memory loss, distractibility, irritability and personality change.

Duane Friend, Natural Resources Management Educator with the University of Illinois Extension, Springfield Center, says there are several considerations for protecting yourself from a lightning strike. First, when a storm is approaching, don't wait for rain to begin before moving indoors. If you can hear thunder, lightning is close enough that it could strike your location at any moment. Lightning can be happening as far as 10 miles from rainfall.

Do not stand under or next to a tree. If you cannot get to an indoor location, crouch in the open, keeping twice as far from a tree as it is tall.

If there is a group of people outdoors, keep several yards distance from each other.

If no sturdy buildings are close by, a hard top vehicle is the next best choice. Avoid touching metal while the storm is in progress.

If someone is struck by lightning, call 911 or other emergency services. Check the victim's breathing and pulse and begin CPR if necessary and you are trained to do so.

Where the lightning entered and left the body, burns may be present. In addition, other problems such as broken bones, loss of hearing or eyesight and other nervous system damage may be present. After being struck, the victim does not carry any residual charge, so there should not be a fear of receiving a shock yourself.

Don't Let Poison Ivy Spoil Your Summer Fun

Remember the old saying, "leaflets three, let it be"? This saying can help you identify poison ivy around your home.

Poison ivy is a perennial woody plant that grows as a vine or as an erect shrub. It can be found growing on garden fences, climbing light poles and trees or spreading on the ground in shaded areas such as under dense blackberry plantings or overgrown fence rows.

The easiest way to identify poison ivy is to look for a compound leaf that is made up of three leaflets. In late summer, the plant produces waxy white berries that have distinct line markings on the outer surface. The markings look like the segments of a peeled orange. In autumn, leaves turn yellow and bright red before falling. During the winter, the berries are still visible.

The plant that is commonly confused with poison ivy is Virginia Creeper or Woodbine. Virginia Creeper is a native plant in the eastern United States. It has five leaflets radiating out from one point of attachment and produces blue berries. In comparison, poison ivy has three leaflets and produces white berries.

The skin irritant in poison ivy is found in all parts of the plant including the roots, stems, leaves, flowers and fruits. Pollen does not carry the toxin. The danger of poison ivy is greatest in the spring and summer when sap is abundant. However, poisoning can occur in the fall and winter as well.

Be careful when burning poison ivy leaves because the toxin is present in the dust and ash particles carried in the smoke. You can also develop poison ivy rash by coming in contact with garden tools, clothing or pets that are contaminated with the toxin. Some people have more tolerance than others do, but no one is immune under repeated exposure.

Animals are generally not as sensitive to the poison ivy toxin as humans are; this is because of their hair and fur. Birds eat the plant's berries during the winter and are mainly responsible for the spread of the plant. As many as 55 species of birds are known to feed on poison ivy berries.

There are three effective ways to get rid of poison ivy: digging it up (grubbing) with a hoe; cutting off the vine and then treating the regrowth with a herbicide; or applying a herbicide to individual leaflets. If you are sensitive to poison ivy, you'll probably want to avoid the grubbing method. If you do choose the grubbing method , wear protective clothing and wash the contaminated clothes immediately after working with poison ivy.

If you prefer a herbicide method, check with your garden center for products labeled to control poison ivy. Carefully read and follow the label directions.

Don't Let Mosquitoes Ruin Your Picnic

You're having a big picnic...the food is great and everyone is having a good time...until the mosquitoes arrive. Sound familiar?

Mosquitoes become a problem as dusk approaches. Moving the picnic to a screened porch or shelter is the best option, but not always possible. So what can you do? Insect repellents can help. An electric fan is also effective. The breeze produced by the fan can blow these insects off course when they're trying to attack.

You can also treat picnic areas with a fogger or spray before the picnic begins; this reduces the mosquito problem for several hours. Spray shrubs, trees and other masses of vegetation to achieve the best control. These insecticides should not be used routinely, but can be used a few times a year when major outdoor functions are planned. Always read and follow all label directions.

Are Moles Invading Your Lawn?

Moles often invade lawns at this time of year as they feed on earthworms and insects that live in the soil. Sometimes you'll see so much tunneling in a lawn that a whole army of moles is suspected. But usually, the culprit is just one or two moles.

Since moles feed on earthworms, insecticides are not an effective control method. Traps are a better option.

Place traps across active tunnels. An active tunnel is usually somewhat straight and connects with other tunnels or soil mounds. A feeding tunnel on the other hand, tends to wind around the lawn and come to a dead end without connecting with another tunnel.

Feeding tunnels are paths where the mole traveled during feeding and these tunnels are unlikely to be reused. So, a trap placed across a feeding tunnel will usually not catch a mole.

To identify an active tunnel, mash down a few inches of each tunnel and mark with a stick. The mole will rebuild these tunnels within a few days.

When you find an active tunnel, place the trap across a mashed down portion of the tunnel. As the mole tries to repair the tunnel, the trap will spring and kill the mole. Live traps are also available if you prefer to relocate the mole in another area. Always observe federal, state and local wildlife management laws when controlling any type of wildlife.

August

Edible

Plant greens, lettuce, kohlrabi and radishes for fall harvest.
Remove dead or diseased plants from the vegetable and flower garden.

Sow rye or oats to improve soil quality in harvested areas of the garden.

Plan a family outing to one of the following county fairs:
Kankakee County Fair - August 1 - 5 - Fairgrounds 815-932-6714
Kendall County Fair – August 3-5 - Fairgrounds 630-553-2860
McHenry County Fair - August 1-5 - 815-338-5315
Will County Fair - August 22 - 25 - Fairgrounds - 708-258-6592
Lake County Indiana Fair (Crown Point, IN) - August 3 - 12 - 219-663-3617
Illinois State Fair - August 10 - 19 - 217-782-6661

Cure onions in a warm, dry place for 2 weeks before storing.

Sow beets, spinach and turnips now for the fall garden.

Ornamental

Dry flowers from your garden for year round enjoyment in arrangements or wreaths. Factsheet available.

Continue watering the lawn regularly if you want to keep it green.

Look for grub damage and sod webworms in the lawn. Treat only if insect population is high. Factsheet available.

Late in the month, establish new lawns or renovate poor quality ones.

Do not fertilize perennial flowers after August 10.

Order bulbs for fall planting.

Soak shrubs periodically during dry spells with enough water to moisten the soil to a depth of 8-10 inches.

Once bagworms reach full size, insecticides are ineffective. Pruning off and burning large bags provides better control.

Watch Scotch and Austrian pines now for Zimmerman pine moth damage. Factsheet available.

Indoors

Repot summer blooming orchids.

Watch for scale insects. They will appear as brown bumps on stems or leaves. Try dabbing a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol on them to kill the insects.

September

Edible

Store leftover garden seed in a cool, dry place. A sealable jar with powdered milk in the bottom will work.

Clean up fallen fruits and leaves around apple, crabapple and other fruits. This will help to reduce the incidence of disease and insects next year.

Plant radish, lettuce and spinach for fall harvest.

Ripen mature green tomatoes indoors by wrapping them individually in newspaper. Store in a cool location 55-60 degrees.

Sow a green cover crop like rye or oats in empty garden areas. Factsheet available.

Oats grow quickly in the cool, wet weather of fall. Dig them into soil next spring.

Plant garlic in late September. Plant the cloves with the points up about 3-5 inches apart and 2 inches deep.

Pick apples at local orchard. For a free list of local orchards call 773-233-0476.

Have your soil tested. List of local labs available. A soil test will measure the levels of some of the major elements for plant growth, such as potassium and phosphorus, the pH of the soil and organic matter content.

Ornamental

Watch for needle drop in white pine and arborvitae. Many evergreens shed older needles as a part of their normal growth process.

Apply a lawn fertilizer in early September. Fertilize after rainfall or water lawn ahead of time for best results.

Renovate bare patches in your lawn or seed a new lawn in early September to mid-September. Factsheet available.

Plant trees and shrubs. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the rootball but at the same depth. Water and keep moist until soil freezes.

Use a weedkiller containing Dicamba to spray creeping Charlie.

Divide perennials. Factsheet available.

Divide and transplant peonies. Each division should have 3-5 eyes.

Plant eyes 2 inches deep.

Have your lawn aerated. Factsheet available.

Indoors

Force Thanksgiving or Christmas cactus into bloom. Give the plant fifteen hours of darkness from, for example, 6 pm to 9 am for about eight weeks. Flower will not form if night temperatures are above 70 degrees F. You can put your cactus outside in the summer in a shady spot. The longer night and cooler temperatures of late summer will encourage flowering. Bring them indoors if temperatures fall to below 45 degrees F and place in garage where no lights are used at night.

Bring houseplants indoors when nighttime temperatures fall below 55 degrees. Check for insects and diseases and isolate them from other houseplants for 2-3 weeks.

Dig up impatiens, coleus, wax begonias and fuschias for an indoor garden. Cut plant halfway back and place in sunny window.

Force amaryllis bulbs. Induce dormancy in September by placing the amaryllis in a cool, dark place and stop watering. Place the pot in a cool, dry location for a 2 month rest period. Place the bulb in a warm sunny location when a bud or foliage begins to emerge and water.

The original article "Homemade Flavored Oil Alert" appeared in the July 2000 issue of Greenline. Since then I have received so many comments and questions, I've decided to print some of the most frequently asked questions to help clarify the information in the original article for everyone.

Question: Can you refer me to research studies that support your conclusions about the dangers of homemade flavored oil?

Answer: Yes, to read about documented cases of illness from improperly prepared and/or stored flavored oils, visit the Center for Disease Control (CDC) website at www.cdc.gov/ and search the website using the keyword botulism. There are also additional references given at the end of each CDC article after the Editorial note. According to the CDC information there were 174 cases of botulism reported in 1999. Of these, 26 were foodborne, 107 were infant botulism and 41 were cases of wound botulism.

Question: Can I make my garlic/herb infused oil safer and increase storage time by adding vinegar or lemon juice?

Answer: When you add vinegar or lemon juice to oil, herbs and garlic you have changed the recipe. What you have just described sounds more like salad dressing than flavored oil. Although commercial garlic-in-oil preparations are made with the addition of some form of food acid (citric acid, etc) it is not vinegar or lemon juice. The addition of an acid does lower the pH of the oil thus reducing the risk of harmful microorganism growth. But some commercial processes simply cannot be duplicated at home because we lack the machinery, the recipe (ratio), or the ingredients which may be restricted - For Commercial Use Only.

Question: What are the symptoms of botulism?

Answer: Botulism is a neuroparalytic illness causing paralysis beginning with the cranial (brain) nerves. The classic symptoms include double vision, blurred vision, drooping eyelids, slurred speech, difficulty swallowing, dry mouth and muscle weakness. Long delayed diagnosis or mis-diagnosis of botulism is not as common today as in the past. During an outbreak of botulism from a commercial garlic-in-oil preparation in Vancouver, Canada in 1985, diagnoses confusion included stroke. Guillain-Barre syndrome, myasthenia gravis, chemical intoxication, tick paralysis, diphtheria, cardiac failure, pharyngitis and others.

Resource: Annals of Internal Medicine. 1988;108: 363-368.

Question: I want to thank you for your article on the dangers of homemade herbed oil. I had no idea of its potential for botulism. I was surprised because of the plethora of recipes that appear online. Why is this allowed?

Answer: There is no law against printing a poor recipe. Do not assume that all information on the World Wide Web is valid. Check to see who runs the site? What is the purpose of the site - to educate the public or to sell a product? Consider information put out by government agencies, universities and recognized health agencies and associations. These sources of information are written and reviewed by health professionals and academic researchers.

Question: I have been collecting ornate bottles to prepare homemade flavored oil to give as Christmas gifts; do you think it would be safe?

No. Garlic and herb infused oil has a short shelf life-- 10 days in the refrigerator (updated October 2004).

As a teenager, my brother once planted a quarter acre of sweet potatoes, which he planned to sell in the fall for a nice profit. The small crop looked so beautiful as it was growing. The vines were thick and lush with beautiful deep green foliage. My brother looked so proud.

Well, come fall when the potatoes were dug, they were thumb-size and not very tasty. I remember my grandfather's comment, as he leaned against his shovel with a very big grin and a mischievous twinkle in his eye, "We should have eaten the leaves."

Of course, my grandfather was joking - but as it turns out the leaves and stem tips of sweet potato plants are edible. Often considered a poor man's food, sweet potato foliage has a rich protein content that helps supplement the nutritional value of the roots.

Gardeners often phone the office asking about the edibility of various garden plants. So this information is primarily for gardeners who have entire vegetable plants at their disposal. This article answers the question - is it edible - without regard to flavor. The leaves of some garden vegetables have strong flavors and are disagreeable or simply too strong for most people's taste. Other leaves are edible only after cooking. The parts listed below may not be delicious but they are not dangerous to eat. You be the judge. Sorry, I do not have recipes.

Vegetable	Common Edible Parts	Other Edible Parts
Beans, snap	pod with seeds	leaves
Beets	root	leaves
Carrots	root	leaves
Cucumbers	fruit with seed	stem tips and young leaves
Eggplant	fruit with seed	leaves edible but not flavorful
Okra	pods with seeds	leaves
Parsley	tops	roots
Pepper	pods	leaves after cooking
Potatoes, Sweet	roots	leaves and stem shoots
Tomatoes	fruit with seeds	(leaves contain alkaloids, do not eat)

Resource: Secondary Edible Parts of Vegetables by M. J. Stephens, University of Florida, Department of Horticulture, for a more complete list of vegetables visit http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/
newsletters/hortupdate/may02/art4may.html

Looking for a summer beverage with a kick, try this one - Ginger Lemon Tea. It is a refreshing beverage with adult appeal. Ginger tea is also called ginger beer in some cultures, but it is always non-alcoholic. It is most popular in the Caribbean Islands, Jamaica and parts of West Africa. Ginger Tea or Ginger Beer is also produced commercially and imported to the U. S. The bottled stuff won't taste nearly as good as this homemade version. If you do not have a food processor, grate the ginger by hand over a bowl or plate. It is well worth the effort.

Ginger Lemon Tea

1 1/2 cups fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped (about 3/4 pound)
4 cups boiling water
6 whole cloves
8 cups water
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 to 2 cups sugar
Fresh lemon slices for garnish

1. Puree ginger with 1/4 cup boiling hot water in a food processor. Pour into a quart jar and add cloves. Stir. Add remaining 3 3/4 cups boiling water and continue to stir. Let stand uncovered at room temperature for 3-4 hours.

2. Place a large coffee filter in a sieve or colander and pour in ginger mixture. Drain completely and discard solids.

3. Pour into a one gallon container and stir in lemon and sugar until sugar is dissolved. Add 8 cups water and stir. Taste and adjust sweetness or add more water if ginger flavor is too strong.

4. Chill and serve over ice and garnish with a fresh slice of lemon if desired.

Makes about 15, 8 ounce servings.

Per serving: 85 to 108 calories; 22 to 26 grams sugar; 5 mg Vitamin C; 2 mcg folate; 5 mg magnesium; 37 mg potassium

With the convenience of giant supermarkets, corner grocery stores and mini-marts in gas stations, accessibility to the food supply is a non-issue in this country. One might think home food preservation is fast becoming a lost art – in the urban environments anyway. But this does not seem to be the case. Home food preservation (canning, freezing and drying) seems to be particularly attractive to small plot gardeners and backyard enthusiasts even in Chicago.

After a few years of gardening, your skills improve and vegetable yield increases. This glut of produce may become a problem after every neighbor and family member is hit with a constant supply of zucchini, tomatoes and whatever. When people start avoiding you and locking doors pretending not to be at home – it is time to make a move toward preserving your bounty. These same people will be simply giddy at receiving a basket of zucchini pickles and tomato salsa during the holiday season. Trust me.

Although safe home canning is more than simply putting hot food in a canning jar and putting a lid on it, the techniques are not too complicated to be managed in the average kitchen. It will mean learning a few new techniques; it does not require a degree in food science to be successful. Interested? Need help?

The U. S. Department of Agriculture still conducts research in home food preservation methods. Some old practices like putting paraffin on top of jelly, oven canning and open kettle canning have been outlawed as dangerous and unsafe and replaced with new quick and easy methods. The University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Service is the research base for the latest information on home food preservation.

The University of Georgia has also produced an instruction book (the home preservers bible so to speak) entitled "So Easy to Preserve." It contains over 150 tested recipes and step-by-step instructions for safe home preservation in canning, freezing and drying. The book can be purchased for $15.00 online or send a check made payable to University of Georgia to: So Easy to Preserve, Attn: Kelly Lee, 215 Connor Hall University of Georgia, Athens, GA 30602.

Recipes and instructions can also be found at the University of Illinois Extension website "Watch Your Garden Grow" at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/veggies. This website also provides information on growing garden vegetables as well as harvesting, storage and recipes for cooking with fresh produce. Consider the possibilities.

Vinegar is both a flavor ingredient and a preservative. Herb seasoned vinegar for cooking is easy and fun to make. Use flavored vinegar in any recipe where you would normally use similar herbs that flavor the vinegar. Because vinegar is so high in acid, there is no risk of the growth of harmful micro-organisms as with flavored oil.

Always start with clean herbs that have been rinsed under cool water. To wash large amounts, run a sink full of cool water then add herbs, swish a handful in the water, lift out and continue until all the leaves have been washed. If the water is dirty, repeat. Drain in colanders and pat dry with kitchen or paper towels.

Jars and Bottles

Only glass bottles are recommended for your flavored vinegars. Use glass jars or bottles that are free of cracks or nicks. They can be sealed with corks; screw-band caps or two piece canning lids. Wash containers thoroughly in warm, soapy water and rinse well.

Then sterilize the jars or bottles. To prepare the sterilizing bath, use a large pot with a rack or use your water bath canner. Add 2 tablespoons vinegar to the sanitizing water to keep mineral deposits from sticking to the glass jars. Place bottles in warm water, bring to a boil and start timer as soon as water reaches a full boil. Boil for 10 minutes or longer. Use immediately.

Collect decorative wine bottles, olive oil bottles or canning jars for storing flavored vinegars. To remove labels, fill bottles with hot tap water and immerse in a sink of hot, soapy water for 30-40 minutes. Peel off label and use rubbing alcohol and a cotton ball to remove all traces of glue. Always sterilize bottles before filling with flavored vinegar.

All Purpose Flavored Vinegar Recipe

This recipe may be doubled or tripled. Use very fresh herbs, picked just before blossoming, if possible (for best flavor).

1/2 cup clean, coarsely chopped herbs, flowers and small stems included
1 pint white wine vinegar or champagne vinegar

1. Sterilize a quart size glass jar and lid or cork. To sterilize cork hold with tongs and dip in and out of boiling water 3 to 4 times. Remove jar with tongs or jar lifter and drain.

2. Heat vinegar to just below the boiling point, at least 190-195°F.

3. Place prepared herbs in sterilized jar and pour vinegar over the herbs. Wipe jar rim with clean damp cloth. Cover. Let stand, undisturbed for 3 to 4 weeks.

4. Strain the vinegar through a piece of damp cheesecloth or a coffee filter one or more times until vinegar shows no cloudiness. Discard the herbs.

5. Pour the vinegar into clean, sterilized jars or bottles. Seal with sterilized lid or cork.

6. To decorate: dip sprigs of herbs in boiling water, drain slightly and insert into bottles, label and date.

Variations

Use basil, bay leaves, borage, cayenne peppers, (any thin-skinned pepper) chives, cilantro (coriander), dill, garlic, geranium, ginger, marjoram, mint, onions, rosemary, sorrel, sage, tarragon or thyme. As decorative additions, lemon zest, lime zest, garlic and dried chili peppers add a fresh new dimension to herb vinegar. Try blending two herbs that compliment each other such as basil and garlic. Or make a herb/spiced blend such as ginger and chives.

According to the University of Georgia's "So Easy to Preserve" the ratio of produce to vinegar should not exceed the following: per pint (2 cups) of vinegar use 3 to 4 sprigs of fresh herbs or 3 tablespoons of dried herbs or 1 to 2 cups fruit or vegetables, or the peel of one lemon or orange, or 1/2 cup coarsely chopped basil leaves or other herb.

Use only commercially prepared vinegar. Use white wine vinegar, red wine vinegar, champagne vinegar, apple cider vinegar or white distilled vinegar. Although white distilled vinegar is clear, it has a sharp acidic taste. Apple cider vinegar with its amber color blends well with fruits. White wine and champagne vinegars are generally more expensive than distilled and cider vinegars, but are more delicate in flavor. They work well with light colored fruit and more delicate herbs.

Storing Your Vinegar

Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Refrigerate vinegars to retain flavor and quality for up to 8 months. Unrefrigerated vinegar may start to lose flavor after 3 months, although they are still safe to use.

Herbed and fruited vinegars are often displayed on sunny windowsills as decorations. If you store flavored vinegar in this manner more than a few weeks, they should be considered permanent decorations and not used in food preparation. If vinegar shows signs of spoilage, such as mold, bubbling, cloudiness or sliminess discard the product immediately.

New Cholesterol Skin Test

FDA has approved a new laboratory test to measure skin cholesterol in adults with severe coronary artery disease. The test determines cholesterol levels using the skin in the palm of the hand. It is a three minute non-invasive hand test, which measures cholesterol in adults with severe coronary artery disease (defined as 50% closure of two or more arteries) and those with a history of heart attack.

Based on a study of over 600 patients, the Cholesterol 1,2,3 test, in addition to a blood test, helped identify those at greatest risk of artery blockage. In fact, the new test gives four to 15 percent more information about risk of severe coronary heart disease than the combination of standard blood tests and risk factor analyses. About 11 percent of all body cholesterol is in the skin; when CAD is present this number increases. Age and race may bias the test results, said the FDA.

Go to www.fda.gov/bbs/topics/ANSWERS/2002/ANS01154.html for the FDA Talk Paper or call 1-888-Info-FDA (1-888-463-6332).

Resource: Nutrition Week Vol. XXXII No. 12, July 8, 2002

Scoville Units in Hot Peppers

The heat in hot peppers is measured in Scoville units, which was developed by Wilbur Scoville, a pharmaceutical chemist, in 1912. Scoville units were based on tasters and were a subjective test. Today food chemists use a more objective method, which measures capsaicin levels. Capsaicin is the ingredient in peppers, which supplies the heat.

Pure capsaicin scores 16,000,000 Scoville units. It is the measure by which all others are judged. From the hottest pepper to the mildest, Sweet bell peppers measured 0-100 Scoville units, Jalapeno peppers scored 2,500-5,000 and Cayenne scored 30,000 - 50,000.

According to information in Summer 2002 Eating Well Magazine, a new Asian chili, called the "tezpur" pepper, scored an unbelievable 885,000 Scoville units. Caution: This pepper is alleged to initiate heart attacks in those who are foolish enough to indulge in eating too many.

...hearing loss is a permanent condition? Listening to loud music can permanently damage your hearing. Rock music, loud concerts, Discman booming and any loud sounds can result in over stimulation of the auditory nerves. Tiny hairs deep inside your ear that signal the auditory nerve gradually die, causing permanent hearing loss. For a free dial-up screening test call 1-800-222-EARS or visit www.audiology.org/consumer

...no amount of dietary supplements or combination of supplements and herbals can substitute for or replace a sound diet or a healthy lifestyle? Eating nutritious foods in needed amounts and proportions - along with ample physical activity - is basic to any wellness plan that promotes health and reduces the risks of chronic diseases such as coronary heart disease, diabetes or osteoporosis as well as many other illnesses. www.health.gov/dietaryguidelines/

...that deeply colored fruits and vegetables tend to have the most vitamins and minerals? As added value, the plant pigments that give them such wonderful color may themselves protect against some forms of chronic diseases - cancer and heart disease. This news does not mean you should abandon such produce as green grapes, iceberg lettuce and white potatoes. Just make an extra effort to include some of the "darker" ones in meals everyday.

Source: Wellness Letter, University of California at Berkeley