Corn Gluten Meal

Corn gluten meal (CGM) is a natural substitute for synthetic preemergence herbicides. Preemergence herbicides attack seeds while they're still in the ground, before the seedlings emerge from the soil. CGM is a byproduct of commercial corn milling that contains the protein fraction of the corn. Its use poses no health risk to people or animals. In fact, because it is 60% protein, corn gluten meal is used as feed for cattle, poultry, fish and dogs. In addition to the 60% protein, corn gluten meal is 10% nitrogen, by weight.

The use of corn gluten meal as an herbicide was discovered during turfgrass disease research conducted at Iowa State University. CGM was observed to prevent grass seeds from sprouting. Further research has shown that it also effectively prevents other seeds from sprouting, including seeds from many weeds such as crabgrass, chickweed and even dandelions.

Corn gluten meal is effective only against seeds, not existing plants. Products made of corn gluten meal will not kill annual weeds that are already up and growing. They'll die on their own, though, by the end of autumn. But most of the seeds they produce later in the season shouldn't sprout – provided you've applied the CGM properly and at the correct time. Crabgrass, foxtail, purslane and prostrate pigweed are examples of annual weeds found in lawns.

Existing perennial weeds such as quackgrass, plantain and dandelions won't be damaged by CGM, either. And, they'll still come back from one year to the next because their roots survive most winters. What corn gluten meal will do is stop the seeds they shed each summer, so the population of these particular weeds won't increase. In fact, because some will die of "natural" causes, their numbers should actually decrease after several years of consistent CGM use.

How To Apply Corn Gluten Meal to Lawns

Corn gluten meal is available in powdered and pelletized forms, both of which work equally well. The pelletized form is easier to use, though.

Apply corn gluten meal first in late April/early May, then a second time around mid-August. Spread the product evenly, at a rate of twenty pounds per 1,000 square feet of lawn. Water it lightly into the soil in order to activate it. The CGM should remain effective for five to six weeks each time you apply it.

Most annual and perennial weed seeds sprout in spring or early summer, but there are a number of "winter annuals" that may sprout either in spring or fall. Chickweed, shepherd's purse and speedwell (Veronica) are examples of winter annuals that may be found growing in lawns. When these seeds sprout in fall, their roots live over winter, giving them a head start the following spring. By the end of that growing season, they die, just like other annuals. Because of these winter annuals, you should apply corn gluten meal to the lawn in late summer as well as spring.

Results of Using CGM on Lawns

Don't expect to see instant results from using corn gluten meal. Every consecutive year you apply CGM – assuming proper timing and rate – should give you better results than the year before. By the fourth year, weed control should be very good.

When you use corn gluten meal you are also fertilizing the lawn, which encourages it to grow thicker and help exclude weeds. Applying CGM at the recommended rate of twenty pounds per 1,000 square feet, twice a year, gives your lawn a total of four pounds of nitrogen annually – more than enough to meet its needs. Corn gluten meal does not supply phosphorus or potassium, however. You should have your soil tested periodically to see if either nutrient should be added and in what amount. Contact our office for more information at 773-233-0476.

Garden Applications

Corn gluten meal may be used safely in gardens around established perennial plants, to keep weed seeds from sprouting. It can also be used after transplants have been in the soil long enough to have "taken hold." Follow label recommendations for application rates.

Wait until seedlings are up and growing well before applying corn gluten meal to flower or vegetable gardens where seeds were sown directly into the soil. CGM will stop most seeds from germinating.

The Downside

Potential problems with corn gluten meal stem from the fact that extensive moisture and microbial soil activity and reduce its effectiveness. You can control how much you water right after applying CGM, but you can't control rainfall. Sometimes seeds that had been prevented from forming roots can "outgrow" the problem.

Another potential drawback is price and availability. While it is becoming more readily available, corn gluten meal is still significantly more costly compared to other Preemergence herbicides. Check places that sell garden supplies, farm stores or county co-ops that sell seed and grain for hobby farms and some stores that specialize in selling food for wild birds.

Avoid Glossy Plant Ads

They're starting already! Purveyors of questionable plant deals are busy trying to take advantage of people's thirst for spring planting. Glossy ads compete for our attention with coupons for fifty cents off breakfast cereal or laundry detergent. But most of these plant ads are not a bargain.

Take dwarf banana trees. They're interesting as houseplants, but I've yet to see them produce fruit year-round in a sunny window, as promised in the ads, maybe in a large greenhouse or conservatory, but not in an average home. Nor can you produce strawberries indoors, "even in winter."

Ditto, tree tomatoes, which, according to the ads, are "not to be confused with an ordinary vine or a tomato plant." "...simply stand back and watch your tree quickly zoom to the full height desired and supply you with yummy fresh garden tomatoes." Don't you believe it! If the plants ever do produce fruit for you – and that's unlikely – it will be instantly apparent that they aren't tomatoes at all.

There are many legitimate mail-order (and Internet) nurseries whose reputations are built on years of service. Put your trust in them – and in local nurseries and garden centers. They know what can be expected to grow well here...and what can't. The nursery or garden center down the road from you wants to keep your business. They're not about to make up wild claims for plants that are marginally hardy here, at best.

Choosing Houseplant Fertilizer

Now that days are growing noticeably longer, it's time to fertilize your houseplants since they're finally coming out of the winter doldrums and starting to resume more active growth. But there's always some confusion about which type of fertilizer to choose. There are so many on the market.

Plants actually make their own food by converting light energy to carbohydrates through the process of photosynthesis. Fertilizer simply supplements this process by providing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (and sometimes minor or trace elements) needed for healthy growth.

Organic houseplant fertilizers act slowly, because they usually must break down in the soil before becoming available to plants' roots. This means you run little or no risk of injuring your plants when using them, but you won't see results for a while. The cooler you keep your home, the cooler that moist soil will be and the longer it will take for organic fertilizer to become available.

By way of contrast, inorganic fertilizers are in a form that plants may use from the minute you apply them to the soil. But you must take care to apply them only to soil that is already slightly moist, to minimize any chance of burning. Another way to help avoid burning is to mix houseplant fertilizer half-strength. Labels tend to recommend more fertilizer than is really needed anyway especially for the less than ideal growing conditions encountered by most houseplants indoors.

March

Edible

Plant onion sets in late March.

Till vegetable beds. Never till the soil when wet. Try the soil squeeze test first. Take a handful of soil and squeeze, if soil forms a ball, let it dry for 2-3 days. If soil crumbles easily through your hand, it is ready to till.

Clean up last year's debris in the vegetable garden to reduce the potential for disease.

Plant potatoes as soon as soil can be worked in the spring. Buy certified disease free seed potatoes. Cut into sections. Each section should have 1 or 2 "eyes" (buds). Plant sections 1 foot apart and 4 inches deep. Factsheet available.

Sow lettuce, peas and radishes.

Start cabbage, broccoli and Brussels sprouts seeds indoors in early march. They should be ready to transplant outside in 6-8 weeks.

Start tomato and pepper plants indoors in mid-March. Transplant outdoors in mid to late May.

Ornamental

Trim back Russian sage and butterfly bushes to 6-8 inches.

Prune late flowering and large flowered

April

Edible

Plant late varieties of potatoes on top of the ground in straw.

Gradually expose plants to outdoor conditions over a 5-7 day period.

Start cucumber, cantaloupe, summer squash and watermelon seeds indoors.

Ornamental

Place stakes around plants now so plants can grow through stakes. You know which plants need stakes; they flop every year. The cheap green tomato cages sold in most garden centers work well to support many plants except tomatoes.

Watch for hibernating boxelder bugs and lady beetles to appear in your home.

With warmer spring weather these bugs become active. Insecticides are not necessary. These insects do not bite or reproduce indoors. They can emit substances that stain surfaces. Vacuuming them up is the best control.

Divide perennials in the spring when growth resumes. Poppy, peony and iris should be divided in late summer to early fall. Four inch diameter sections work best. Smaller ones may not bloom well for a couple of years.

Rake back mulch around roses when new growth appears.

Plant a tree in celebration of Arbor Day. Check out this Arbor Day website for more information: www.arborday.org

Cut back dead or damaged rose canes to the base of the plant. Slightly damaged canes need to be cut back to healthy wood. Cut back to an outward facing bud, so new growth will grow outward providing good air circulation around the plant.

Prune out and destroy webs of Eastern tent caterpillars.

Mow groundcovers to remove winter burned foliage. Raise the mower to its highest setting, fertilize and water after mowing to encourage rapid growth.

Indoors

Start tuberous begonias and caladiums indoors for planting outdoors in June.

Place Easter lilies in a bright cool location and out of direct sunlight.

May

Edible

Give tomatoes, cucumbers, squash, melons, peppers and eggplant at least 8 hours of sunlight for best fruit production.

Plant warm season vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and vine crops after mid-May.

Control cucumber beetles, carriers of cucumber wilt as soon as cucumbers germinate to prevent disease. This disease will cause plants to wilt and die just as cucumbers start producing.

Make a home for toads in your garden. Toads eat cutworms and other insects. Place inverted clay flowerpots in shady spots. Chip out a piece of the pot rim to give the toads an entrance to their home.

Extend your sweet corn harvest by planting successive crops when the previous planting has 3-4 leaves or plant early, mid and late maturing varieties at the same time.

To insure pollination of sweet corn, plant several rows together in a block, rather than in one long row. Keep well watered especially from tasseling time to picking.

Researchers at the Agricultural Research Service have found that many plants respond favorably to specific wavelengths of reflected sunlight. Different colored mulch materials reflect different wavelengths of light and have produced noticeable results. Tomato harvests increased significantly in both size and quality when plants were grown over red plastic. Potatoes and green peppers produced best when the plastic was white.

Ornamental

Plant cannas, gladioli, dahlias, tuberous begonias and caladium in mid-to-late May.

Try multi-flora petunias in the garden. They withstand heat better than other types. They are more resistant to botrytis, a disease that attacks petunias during wet weather.

Try lobelia (lobelia pendula) for hanging baskets for containers. Its stems will trail 8 inches. The 'Cascade' series is especially vibrant in colors of pink, white, lilac, maroon, violet and blue.

Most flowers have a white eye.

Watch for European pine sawflies on Scotch, Red, Jack and Mugo pines. Newly hatched larva feed on the green tissue of the needles. Larvae have a black head, black legs and a dark stripe bordered by white stripes down the side of the body. Factsheet available

Use plastic milk jugs for seed irrigation. Take a large nail and punch holes in the side of a jug, spacing them about 2 inches apart. Bury the jug, leaving the neck protruding from the soil. Fill the jug with water and screw the cap on firmly. The water will gradually seep out providing a slow, deep irrigation for surrounding plants.

Indoor

Adding fertilizer to a dry root ball burns the roots, damaging or killing the plant, so water dry houseplants before fertilizing and NEVER fertilize wilted plants.

Peat pellets that swell up to form both pot and growing medium for seedlings can be used for air-layering after the pot has soaked and expanded to full size. Slit it vertically on one side so it will fit over the plant stem. Next, wound the plant stem by cutting two fine rings around the stem _ inch apart in the bark or stem with a sharp knife. Peel off the area between the cuts, and slip the pellet over the stem. Cover the wound with a plastic bag tied at both ends to conserve moisture. When roots appear in the bag, remove the plastic, sever the new plant and pot it up.

June

Edible

Stop harvesting rhubarb and asparagus to allow foliage to develop and store food reserves for next year's harvest.

When crops like squash and cucumbers are planted in a circle or hill, place a stick upright in the middle of the circle and leave it there. Later on you'll know where to water the main roots hidden under the vines.

Do not be alarmed at June drop of tree fruits. This is a natural thinning process. Thin fruit to 6-8 inches apart on a branch.

Crawling ants on your vegetables may be a sign of aphids. Some ants protect aphids, moving them from plant to plant or even taking them underground into the anthill for overnight safety. The ants do this to ensure a supply of honeydew, a sugary substance that aphids secrete and ants feed on.

Ornamental

Prune shoot tips of chrysanthemums and coleus to promote bushier growth.

Remove leaves of spring flowering bulbs only after they have yellowed and withered.

Apply a light side dressing of a 5-10-5 fertilizer every two weeks to caladiums. This will insure continuous production of new brightly colored foliage.

Plant gourds as a summer gardening project for kids. When the gourd is half grown scratch a child's name into the skin. The gourd forms a scab over the scratches and as the gourd grows the name grows bigger and bigger.

Trap earwigs in the garden by using rolled up newspapers moistened with water. The insects will hide in the newspaper during the day.

Indoor

According to studies conducted by NASA, plants can function as air purification systems. Spider plants are highly efficient in absorbing toxic substances. To purify the air in an average size, well-insulated home, 8 to 15 mature spider plants would be required. Other plants that also lower pollution levels, but to a lesser degree, were Chinese evergreens, golden pothos and peace lily.

Houseplants in clay pots can be set directly in the ground when placing them outdoors for the summer. Set the pots in the ground so the soil is 1-2 inches below the pot rim, allowing moisture to go through the porous clay. If your houseplants are in plastic or glazed containers, repot them into clay containers or check frequently because moisture will not move through the plastic.

According to noted author, Dave Barry, crabgrass can grow on bowling balls in airless rooms and there is no known way to kill it that does not involve nuclear weapons. Crabgrass isn't quite that bad. As a matter of fact, scientists in Arkansas are using crabgrass to clean up crude oil in land around thousands of oil wells in Southern Arkansas. The process is called phytoremediation, (phyto means "plant" and remediate means "clean up").

Crabgrass attracts bugs or microbes to its roots, which in turn consume the oil. The oil is food for the microorganisms. As crabgrass roots grow through the soil they excrete chemicals, which attracts more critters. High populations of microorganisms are found near the roots. So crabgrass pulls in these microbes to devour the oil.

This pesky weed has many names, some which are printable such as finger grass, crowfoot, purple crabgrass and Polish millet as well as some, which are unprintable as exclaimed by someone finding it in their lawn.

Crabgrass was introduced into the United States in 1844 as a potential forage crop. Prior to that, it was grown as a grain crop in China in 2700 B.C. For you urban types, a forage crop is food grown for cattle. Believe it or not, folks in Oklahoma have developed the only commercially available crabgrass variety in the United States called 'Red River'. This variety provides excellent grazing for cattle and produces quality hay.

As an urban, horticulture educator for the past 20 years in the great Chicago metropolis of bungalows with pristine weed-free green lawns, I have been asked every imaginable question about weeds; crabgrass is usually the most popular topic of conversation followed by the invasion of wicked Creeping Charlie; but that is another article.

Life Cycle
Crabgrass is a summer annual. Seeds will germinate during spring and summer. Crabgrass seeds will germinate in mid-spring when soil temperatures are greater than 55°-60°F for seven to ten consecutive days. During the summer, seeds will continue to germinate up to temperatures of 95°F. These seeds can stay viable in the soil for thirty years.

As days become shorter in late summer, crabgrass goes into its prolific reproductive phase. Finger-like purple seed heads will form until killed by frost. A single crabgrass plant can produce over 150,000 seeds during the growing season. That's about 10,000 to 20,000 seeds per square foot. So, you can see why control is difficult.

How to Control Crabgrass
Quality turf can compete well with weeds and is best achieved by properly preparing planting soils, planting turf grasses suitable for the given situation and by using standard cultural practices (mowing, watering, fertilizing and cultivating.

Follow these cultural recommendations:

Proper mowing is critical to turfgrass health and appearance. Turfgrasses mowed too short become open, inviting weed invasion. Mow grass at 2.5 to 3.0 inches. After mowing a site infested with crabgrass, rinse the mower to remove seeds, to avoid transferring them to an uninfected site. Mow frequently so as not to remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at one time. That may mean mowing twice a week in the spring and once a week during the summer.Water deeply and infrequently. Most grasses need an inch to an inch and one-half of water per week. Water to wet the soil to the depth of rooting. When irrigated lightly and frequently, weed seeds (especially those of annual weeds) can germinate and readily develop into mature weeds because the soil surface is never allowed to dry out.

Fertilizers maintain turf grass density, vigor and color. Inadequate nitrogen fertilization leads to open turf that is readily invaded by weeds. Inadequate amounts of other minerals in the soil, especially potassium, phosphorus, iron and sulfur, can also reduce turf color, disease resistance and stress tolerance. Conduct soil tests and supply these elements as recommended by test results. It is important, however, not to supply excessive amounts of phosphorus to established turf. Excessive amounts of phosphorus at the soil surface can encourage development of germinating weed seeds.

Crabgrass likes to invade bare soil or areas where the turf is thin, avoid practices that damage turfgrass stands in late spring or summer. If possible delay turf establishment or renovation work until fall to avoid crabgrass problems. This also holds true for practices such as dethatching. Just remember, crabgrass infestations are a symptom of poor turf, not a cause of poor turf.

All these cultural practices, if followed, will help to crowd out crabgrass seedlings.

Pre-emergence or Post-emergence: That Is the Question
Pre-emergence herbicides are applied in the spring in many areas. Timing is critical. Often you will see forsythia bloom as the time to apply pre-emergence herbicides, but forsythia flower petal drop is probably a better indicator. Unfortunately, this occurrence can vary greatly from year to year based on weather. So, if your timing of application is off, poor crabgrass control may result.

Many pre-emergence herbicides also need rain or have to be watered in to be activated. If after an application the turf does not receive rain or is not irrigated, reduced control will result.

With pre-emergence you will have to treat the entire lawn; even when sections of the turf may not need it. Another issue with pre-emergence is that seeding of lawns will be delayed for a long period of time because the germinating grass seedlings will be damaged by the pre-emergence weed killer.

Post-emergence herbicides can be effective. Apply the weed killer before the crabgrass plant sends out tillers. Tillers are side shoots. A post-emergence herbicide is more effective at the 2-4-leaf stage of early growth. As crabgrass matures, it is much harder to control.

Crabgrass must be actively growing for the post-emergence herbicide to be highly effective. Do not apply herbicides when the plants are under stress such as drought.

Turf scheduled for a post-emergence herbicide application should not be mowed for a few days before and after the application. Try to schedule the application so as to allow for a day of no rain after the application. This assures maximum uptake of the herbicides by the leaves.

There are a number of effective pre-emergence and post-emergence herbicides available. Certain post-emergence herbicides are at risk of causing injury to turf, so, remember to always read, understand and follow pesticide label directions for the safest and most effective method of control.

Natural Alternative
Over my twenty-year career, I have noticed a shift or growing concern from consumers concerning the use of chemicals for their lawns and gardens. With regard to weed control in lawns, I have received numerous inquiries about the use of 'corn gluten meal" as a natural pre-emergent for crabgrass control.

Corn gluten meal is a by-product of processing corn for animal feed. The meal is 60% protein and 10% nitrogen, so it is also a source of nitrogen fertilizer. It must be applied before crabgrass germination. An application is made in the spring, followed by a second application in late summer. During the first few seasons of application corn gluten does not usually provide crabgrass control that is acceptable as most synthetic herbicides. Subsequent use each season may provide improved control.

A philosopher once said, "Work is the crabgrass of life." For many professionals and homeowners that is so true, but with numerous controls available, the battle with crabgrass can be won.

For additional information about crabgrass check out the Lawn Care section of the University of Illinois' Hort Corner website at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/hort.

Arthritis Today's Supplement Guide

Arthritis and gardening can be a painful combination. And there are many popular supplements on the market for the treatment of arthritis pain – but do they work? "Many, despite their claims, lack solid scientific evidence that they do what they say they do," according to the Arthritis Foundation.

To assist arthritis sufferers in finding real therapeutic potential in the hundreds of bottles, jars and cans in the world of "dietary supplements," the Foundation has put together a free 24-page supplement guide. A panel of doctors, health care professionals and supplement experts prepared this guide.

It provides the basic tools for understanding what a specific supplement is, what it does, how it works and whether it is worth taking. The arthritis foundation also recommends consulting your doctor before adding anything new to your health care plant for the treatment of arthritis. To order call 1-800-283-7800 or visit online at www.arthritis.org.

Deadly Combination: Ammonia and Household Bleach

Spring is just around the corner and some of us immediately think of "spring cleaning." For the do-it-yourselfers, caution must be taken when using household cleaning chemicals. Many household cleaning products are formulated with chlorine bleach or ammonia. Kitchen scouring powder, stain removal formulas and oven cleaning formulas are a few examples. Mixing these products with either chlorine bleach or ammonia can result in the production of deadly fumes. Inhaling these fumes can cause serious respiratory impairment and may be linked to some forms of cancer.

Spring Cleaning: Painted Walls

If spring brings out the cleaning bug in you, washing the walls is a good project. Freshly washed walls can give your home a new look. And it helps to rid the home of dust and mold spores. You can also get rid of the winter grime from heating systems, spider webs and dust threads. Follow these steps for painted walls.

• You will need two pails, one for washing and one for rinsing. If you are using detergent and water, add one tablespoon Borax per quart of water to soften the water, which makes the job easier.
• If you are using a commercial paint wall remover, follow manufacturer's instructions exactly as they are given. Too much product could damage walls. Purchase a product with a degreaser for best results.

• Change the water in each pail as it gets dirty or you will just frustrate yourself.
• Remove all art from the walls, pull the furniture to the middle of the room, cover it with sheets or plastic, roll up your sleeves and take action.
• Begin by dusting the walls. Dust from the bottom of the wall up. Use a dust mop or cover a broom with an old pillowcase.
• After dusting, start washing again from the bottom of the wall up. Washing from bottom up eliminates dirty water from running down over the dirty wall, which leaves streaks that are hard to remove.
• Squeeze your cloth or sponge as dry as possible and clean a small area, not more than three square feet, at a time using a circular motion. Rinse with a sponge squeezed out of clear water. Overlap the areas as you clean until the entire wall is washed.

It is really difficult to visualize a garden bed full of spectacular colored flowers when the temperature is hovering near freezing. The growing season is close. Temperatures will be warming, days will continue to lengthen and spring bulbs will pop forth from their winter hibernation.

During the occasional cold, dreary day, plan to add some low maintenance plants to your home landscape. One great source of plants is the Perennial Plant Association. Each year the Association's members select a perennial that is suitable for a wide climate types, low maintenance and exhibits multi-seasonal interest.

The Perennial Plant of the Year 2003 is Leucanthemum 'Becky', the Becky Shasta daisy. 'Becky' was selected on the basis of its bright white flowers, sturdy stems that resist lodging and long season of bloom. Leucanthemum 'Becky' has proven to be a lovely and dependable perennial for herbaceous borders across the country.

To gardeners, daisies have always exuded charm and friendliness. As a child many people remember running through a field of wild daisies or picking some for their mothers or teachers. Gardeners have long valued daisies of all types as excellent pass-along plants. Leucanthemum 'Becky' is the quintessential daisy.

' Becky' has sturdy, upright stems that grow 40 inches tall, with a similar spread. Three-inch wide, single white flowers with contrasting yellow centers appear at the end of June or early July when other Shastas are finishing. Flowering continues throughout August and often into September. Becky Shasta daisy grows well in hardiness zones 4 to 9.

An excellent cultivar of an old-fashioned favorite, Becky Shasta daisy grows best in full sun and well-drained soil. Plants are not tolerant of excessive moisture or wet soils in winter. Deadheading encourages rebloom and extends the flowering season into autumn. Stems can be cut back to the lower foliage after flowering to tidy the plant. The flower stems are strong enough to keep this daisy upright after a heavy rain and to make it an excellent cut flower. Many Shasta daisies do not grow well in the hot, humid temperatures of the South and are not hardy in cold northern winters. 'Becky' is superior to other Shasta daisies due to its robust habit and its good performance in both southern and northern climates.

Leucanthemum 'Becky' is a wonderful choice to be grown as a specimen or en masse in the perennial border, in naturalistic landscapes, to attract butterflies, for garden bouquets and even in large containers. It can be one of the main stalwarts of the summer border. Plant with Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian sage) for a long season of bloom. Place Scabiosa columbaria 'Butterfly Blue' (pincushion flower) in front and add Veronica 'Royal Candles' for a lovely combination of white, blue and blue-lavender. For extra zing, add Crocosmia 'Lucifer' a brilliant scarlet red, summer flowering bulb.

For Perennial Plant of the Year selections from previous years, check out the Perennial Plant Association web site at www.perennialplant.org.

Source: Perennial Plant Association

Many homeowners and even nursery professionals, when confronted with a disease problem, stress that they wish to apply an "organic" fungicide to control the disease, because it is more environmentally friendly. Others are equally adamant that they want something that works, regardless of the ecological impacts. Many of the organic fungicides fulfill these two most important criteria in disease management in one bottle: Efficacy with minimal ecological impact. However, it must be stressed that improper use of any chemical, synthetic or organic, will result in a failure of control and have negative environmental consequences.

Effective use of organic fungicides (or any fungicide for that matter) requires a solid strategy of integrated plant management. As opposed to focusing on the pest or pathogen in a traditional integrated pest management (IPM) program, integrated plant management focuses on identifying the right plant for the site and management strategies aimed at keeping that plant healthy. The backbone of integrated plant management includes carefully matching the plant to the soil type, sunlight levels and watering conditions; proper sanitation; appropriate fertilization and pruning, when necessary. All of these strategies work together to prevent disease problems from developing.

Prevention is the key word here and it is essential to successful organic gardening because established populations of plant pathogens don't respond well to any chemical, organic or synthetic. The fungicides and bactericides discussed herein all have low acute toxicity to both birds and mammals (including humans). This doesn't mean you should use them indiscriminately. Copper and sulfur-based chemicals should be used with caution for the sake of your plants and in the case of the copper based fungicides, to prevent groundwater contamination (copper is a heavy metal and toxic to fish). As always, follow label instructions carefully. Prior to applying any chemical, make certain of your diagnosis. If you are certain of your diagnosis, proceed to the next step of identifying which pesticide is best for the problem you wish to manage. Remember to determine if the plant you wish to treat is labeled and that no contradictions exist. Finally, recognize temperature limitations and apply during appropriate weather conditions. When applying any chemical, be sure to protect yourself using the proper precautions.

Sulfur

The oldest recorded fungicide is sulfur. It has been used for over 2000 years. Early in agricultural history, Greeks recognized its efficacy in controlling rust on wheat. Although few homeowners grow their own wheat, sulfur can be used as a preventive fungicide against powdery mildew, rose black spot, rusts and other diseases. The key to its efficacy is that it prevents spore germination. For this reason, it must be applied prior to disease development for effective results. Sulfur can be applied as a dust or purchased in liquid form. It is also available as a wettable powder, which allows you to decide how you wish to apply it.

Do not use sulfur if you have applied an oil spray within the last month – the combination is phytotoxic (plant-killing). Likewise, remember to not use sulfur when temperatures are expected to exceed 80°F. Finally, there are certain "sulfur-shy" plants including varieties of gooseberries, currants, apricots, raspberries and cucurbits that should never be treated with sulfur.

Lime-sulfur is formed when lime is added to sulfur to help it penetrate plant tissue. It is more effective than elemental sulfur at lower concentrations: however, the odor of rotten eggs usually discourages its use over extensive plantings.

Copper

Although not the oldest fungicide, Bordeaux mixture has been successfully used for over 150 years, on fruits, vegetables and ornamentals. Unlike sulfur, Bordeaux mixture is both fungicidal and bactericidal. As such, it can be effectively used against diseases such as leaf spots caused by bacteria or fungi, powdery mildew, downy mildew and various anthracnose pathogens. The ability of Bordeaux mixture to persist through spring rains and to adhere to plants is one reason it has been so effective. Bordeaux mixture contains copper sulfate, which is acidic, neutralized by lime (calcium hydroxide), which is alkaline.

Bordeaux mixture comes in several formulations. One of the most popular, effective and least phytotoxic formulations for general home garden and orchard use is the 4-4-50 formulation (These numbers translate into four pounds copper sulfate and four pounds lime in 50 gallons of water). For determining a more useful amount, consult the Ohio State Bulletin: Controlling Insect and Disease in Home Fruit Plantings.

These formulations were developed in recognition of the fact that copper, like sulfur, is phytotoxic and that the level of toxicity is related to the age of plant tissue being treated. If Bordeaux mixture is applied in spring after the tree breaks dormancy (to prevent infection by the fire blight bacteria, Erwinia amylovera), a weaker, more dilute formulation should be used to reduce the risk of plant injury.

Some labels will recommend twice as much fungicide, which translates into an 8-8-50 formulation, for other diseases or late season application. Application of Bordeaux during hot weather (above 85°F) may cause yellowing and leaf drop. Additionally, leaf burn can occur if it rains soon after a Bordeaux application. Spray oil can be added to the spray mixture to reduce the likelihood of burn. Bordeaux mixture can be applied as either a dust or purchased as a liquid formulation. Some sensitive plants require diluting the product to one half strength (depending on the product used – see label) to avoid phytotoxicity. These include geraniums, ivy, pansy, celery, strawberry, azaleas, dogwood and juniper.

Care should be taken when applying this fungicide to young, tender leaves of apple, pear, plum or rose. Do not apply Bordeaux to corn or ornamental sorghum, which are described as copper-sensitive plants.

Source: Janna Beckerman, Ph.D., University of Minnesota Extension Service Yard and Garden Line newsletter

Occasionally, the Yard & Garden Clinic receives inquiries about unknown 'insects' that infest the skin. People may describe these mystery insects as having many legs, the ability to change color and when captured, the ability to disappear. They claim that they infest clothing and furniture and that they attack from above, jumping from the ceiling onto the victim. They also say they must be rare, because pest control companies cannot find them although they seem to be everywhere.

These Creatures Do Not Exist

People tend to blame every unexplained itch or bump on an insect or arthropod; it is easy to incorrectly identify insects as the cause of bite-like symptoms. Sometimes the belief that insects are the cause can be very powerful, to the extent that information from an entomologist or pest control technician fails to change the client's mind. They may be so convinced of an insect infestation that they avoid family and friends for fear of contaminating others and they may sell their homes and move away in order to escape the imaginary insects. Furthermore, even though clients are sure that insects are responsible, the samples submitted to the Yard & Garden Clinic contain only lint, scabs and other miscellaneous debris often captured on tape or in sticky traps. Sometimes non-biting insects are received but all are harmless to people.

While this behavior may seem strange to people not suffering from these unknown itches, it is very real and frustrating to the individual. Delusory parasitosis is a psychological condition characterized by the unshakeable belief that insects are attacking or living under the skin even though professionals have ruled out any possibility of insects. The individual may have sores from scratching and trying to remove the imaginary creatures from the skin. It is important to understand that the symptoms in these cases are real even though the pests are not.

What Can Cause Unexplained Skin Irritations?
It is possible that some insects can bite so it is extremely important to positively identify biting insects before treating the problem. Never use pesticides to treat a home unless an entomologist or pest control company has positively identified biting insects. Pesticides can actually make the itch worse and are toxic to people and pets. In the winter, there are only a few insect/arthropods that may be responsible for bites.

Bed bugs. Bed bugs are about 3/16 inch long, round, reddish brown and wingless. Bed bugs leave tiny bloodspots on sheets and blankets and they molt as they grow, leave a light colored 'skin' around furniture. Although bed bugs hide, their presence is usually detected within a short amount of time.

Fleas can leave bites especially on the lower legs and waist and jump off before you notice what bit you. One way to test if fleas are present is to walk across the carpet in white socks. The dark brown fleas will be very noticeable on the white background of the socks as they jump to a person to take a blood meal.

Bird mites occasionally attack people, but normally are just a summertime pest. These mites can bite people when they are away from their host. They do not live on humans and cannot reproduce without feeding on their host. Rodent mites less frequently attack people making them very rare pests. However, if mice or rats are present, it is possible that they could be the cause.

Identify Environmental Causes
Once you have ruled out the possibility of insects causing an irritation, look for other sources. The low humidity associated with winter causes two types of irritation that may be mistaken for insects. Low humidity causes dry skin, which can be very itchy and feel similar to an insect bite. Low humidity also results in increased static electricity that causes small particles from paper, fabric or carpeting to become attracted to the skin. These particles can create the sensation of 'bugs' crawling on the skin.

Other sources of irritation that might be mistaken for bug bites include:

• cosmetics, soaps and detergents
• skin sensitivity to household products
• clothing (especially wool)
• new furnace filters can release small fibers that may irritate the skin
• indoor air pollution
• the sap of some houseplants such as Ficus, Poinsettia, Pothos, Caladium and Philodendron

Identify Medical Causes
Medical conditions often cause skin irritations that may be mistaken for insect bites.

These include:

• medical conditions such as pregnancy, liver or kidney disease and herpes
• side effects from prescription and over the counter medication
• allergic reactions to household products
• hay fever or pollen, mold or dust allergies
• stress

Consider Consulting a Professional

A dermatologist or other medical professional may be able to help identify sources of irritation that may have been overlooked.

For more information please read the publications from the University of Nebraska Lincoln Extension: http://lancaster.unl.edu/enviro/pest/factsheets/009-95.htm and the University of California http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7443.html

Source: University of Minnesota

April

• Clean up debris
• Cultivation (aerification, spiking, slicing) – lawn should be actively growing
• Vertical mowing or dethatching (lawn should be actively growing)
• Overseeding, establishment (late in month; late summer is better)
• Preemergence annual weed (i.e. crabgrass) control (or early May)

May

• Cultivation (aerification, spiking, slicing) – lawn should be actively growing
• Preemergence annual weed (i. e. crabgrass) control (or late April)
• Fertilization (1 pound of nitrogen/1,000 square feet)
• Postemergence broadleaf weed (i.e. dandelions) control to actively growing weeds
• Overseeding, establishment (early in month; late summer is better)

June

• Postemergence broadleaf weed control (avoid hot weather)
• Light fertilization (with irrigation); controlled release nitrogen suggested
• Monitor for pests/problems

Beyond Impatiens and Petunias
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/beyond
Find out about plants that offer color and interest to some of the most extreme gardening situations.

Illinois Tree Selection
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/treeselect

If you are a fresh greens and lettuce enthusiast, you should consider planting a crop of your own. Whether you are a container gardener or a small plot gardener, lettuce and other greens are hardy and easy to grow. You will quickly find out that the flavor of fresh greens is far superior to supermarket varieties. Since leafy greens are a cool weather crop, your greens will be eaten and out of the way in time for warm weather vegetables.

Picked lettuce actually breathes. It takes in oxygen and gives off carbon dioxide. I know, everyone thinks the opposite is true. And plants growing in the sunlight do take in carbon dioxide and give off oxygen in a process called photosynthesis. They give off oxygen, while creating food for growth from sunlight, air, soil and water. But, harvested fruits and vegetables behave differently. They are still alive and struggling to carry on the biological process of life after harvesting. They take in oxygen and release carbon dioxide and water as they convert inorganic materials into substances they need. This process is called respiration, which is totally different from photosynthesis.

According to R. B. H. Willis' book on post harvest, lettuce respires at an extremely high rate, 200 milliliters of carbon dioxide per kilogram per hour. Compared to potatoes at 8 milliliters and apples at 25 milliliters. This high rate of respiration is why lettuce does not keep well. During respiration there is a metabolic breakdown of cells – decay. Lettuce turns brown, rusty spots appear and leaves turn black with decay.

Bags of fresh, young lettuce leaves you see at the supermarket are stored in "modified atmospheric packages." The air in these bags is replaced with nitrogen, which slows respiration and retains freshness, extending shelf life considerably.

Of course, chilling, proper humidity and limiting oxygen supply by wrapping in plastic slows respiration of lettuce as well as any harvested produce. The point is – fresher lettuce tastes best and it is higher in nutrition al value. Reducing respiration to a matter of minutes or even hours rather than weeks will definitely provide a flavor distinction! Agree? So think about planting lettuce greens this spring.

Contemplate leaf lettuce if you have limited space. A flowerbox, large pot or other container can yield a good crop of lettuce in about 30 days. Buy transplants, plant from seed or start your own transplants indoor. When harvesting, pick the outer leaves and your plant will continue to produce until it bolts when hot weather sets in. When lettuce bolts, it starts to flower and a bitter taste develops in the leaves. Remember, lettuce is a cool weather crop; early spring and late summer are prime times.

For more information on lettuce varieties, planting, harvesting and preparation of garden produce, visit our website "Watch Your Garden Grow" at the University of Illinois Extension Urban Resource Network at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/veggies/.

Source: Master Food Preserver Notebook, University of Illinois Extension, Dr. Susan Brewer, Food Preservation Extension Specialist.

The sale of eggs always increases during the spring with the arrival of spring holidays celebrated by various religious and cultural groups. Despite their bad press, for being extremely high in cholesterol, eggs continue to enjoy their fair share of the market.

• Freshness – Check the end of an egg carton and you will find three groups of numbers, a sell by date, a pack date and an internal code for egg packers. The sell by date is the last day the store can legally sell the eggs. This date must be within 30 days of the pack date. The pack date is stated in three numbers corresponding to calendar days starting with January 1 and ending with December 31. For instance: if a pack date is #028, the eggs were packed on January 28. Eggs are usually graded and packed within one week of being laid (although the law allows up to 30 days).
• Grade – Eggs are sold in three grades – AA, A and B. Grade AA eggs are of superior quality and are not usually available to the average consumer. And Grade B eggs are used commercially. Which leaves Grade A, the one commonly sold in supermarkets.
• Color – Egg color can range from white, to brown, to greenish-blue, depending on the breed of chicken. White eggs are common to the Chicagoland area, while brown eggs are common to the New England states.

  Typically Leghorns, large white-feathered chickens, (like the cartoon character Foghorn Leghorn) lay white eggs. Brown or red-feathered chickens lay brown eggs. Although there is a breed of black chicken that lay white eggs, go figure! Araucana hens of South America lay pale green or pale blue eggs (the color of a Robin's egg). According to Dr. Ken Koelkebeck, University of Illinois Extension Poultry Specialist, you can tell the color of a hen's eggs by looking at the color of her ears – interesting! But, contrary to popular belief, there is no difference in flavor, cooking, characteristics, or nutritional value based on shell color. Beware of the marketing schemes.

• Size – Eggs come in six sizes based on weight. They are jumbo (2.50 oz.), extra-large (2.25 oz.), large (2.00 oz.), medium (1.75 oz.), small (1.50 oz.), and peewee (1.25 oz.). Why the different sizes? As hens age, they lay bigger eggs. In recipes calling for eggs the standard size is large, unless a particular egg size is mentioned.
• Nutritional value – The cholesterol content of eggs is higher than any other food we eat. Approximately, 213 mg per large egg – all cholesterol is in the yolk. According to the National Academies of Science, Food & Nutrition Board, the recommended Daily Intake for cholesterol is 300 mg per day. They are an excellent source of protein and they provide a wide range of minerals and vitamins in proportion to their calorie count – only 75 calories per large egg.
• Storage and Handling – Eggs are a potentially hazardous food if not stored and handled properly. Under cooked and raw eggs have been linked to a number of salmonella outbreaks since 1988, especially among young children and the elderly. The recommended method of storage is at 45 degrees F or below.
  

Source: University of Illinois Dept. of Animal Sciences – Poultry & the American Egg Board

The term "Supper" is an old-fashioned expression, which suggests a light evening meal. Soup makes a super supper during these cold Chicagoland days of spring (they may last right up to June, you know).

• Use seasonal ingredients such as asparagus, artichoke and sorrel or mustard greens for a fresh spring flavor.
• Check the produce section of your supermarket for fresh herbs such as tarragon, chives and cilantro.
• Puree half of the vegetables in a food processor or blender and add it back to the pot for a refreshing and flavorful vegetable thickener, if desired.

Asparagus & Fish Soup with Spring Greens

This soup can be prepared in one pan. The little brown bits left after cooking the fish is called fond – it adds so much flavor to the soup base. Use homemade fish stock if you have it or canned low-sodium fish or chicken stock will do.

• 4 white fish fillets, such as Lake Superior whitefish, tilapia or cod, cut into 2 inch pieces

• Salt and black pepper to taste
• 1/2 cup flour
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1 1/2 cups fish stock or canned stock (may substitute chicken stock).
• 1/2 cup white wine or substitute additional fish or chicken stock
• 2 teaspoons capers, rinsed
• Juice of one lemon
• 3 ripened plum tomatoes, seeded and chopped
• 6 stalks asparagus, slice on the diagonal
• 1 cup young mustard greens, or fresh baby spinach, julienne (1 bunch)
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine
• 2 teaspoons fresh chives, chopped

1. Season fish with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Place flour in a large plastic bag. Dredge fish in flour. Shake off excess.

2. Heat olive oil in a large Dutch oven or sauté garlic 30 seconds. Add fish fillets and quickly cook to golden brown. Do not overcook. Gently remove fish to a platter, cover and set aside.

3. Add garlic to sauté pan. Stir up brown bits and sauté garlic 30 seconds. Do not brown. Add the wine or stock and continue to stir. Add 1 1/2 cups fish or chicken stock and bring to a boil. Boil to reduce for about 5 minutes.

4. Add rinsed capers, lemon juice, tomatoes and asparagus. Cook over high heat just until asparagus is tender 4 to 5 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, wash mustard greens in several changes of cold water. Shake off excess water, use a salad spinner or pat dry with paper towels. Stack several mustard greens and roll into a tiny scroll. Slice across the scroll forming julienne shreds. Add mustard greens to pan and cook just until greens begin to wilt. Stir in butter or margarine.

6. Season with salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary.

7. Place a fish fillet in each bowl and divide soup between the four bowls. Pour soup over each fillet. Garnish each with 1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh chives. Serve hot with crusty bread.

Makes 4 servings

New research explains for the first time how and why a moderately high protein diet may be the best for losing weight. The new findings suggest that eating more high quality protein will increase the amount of leucine, an amino acid, in the diet, helping a person maintain muscle mass and reduce body fat during weight loss. Maintaining muscle during weight loss efforts is essential because it helps the body burn more calories.

The findings of two related papers involving diets of increased protein and reduced carbohydrates appear in the February issue of the Journal of Nutrition. The research was led by Donald K. Layman, Professor of Nutrition in the Department of Food Science & Human Nutrition at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign.

Dr. Donald K. Layman, a Professor in the College of Medicine, tested his hypothesis on 224 mid-life, overweight women who consumed diets of 1,700 calories a day for 10 weeks. Physical activity of the participants was held constant.

The control group ate according to the USDA Food Guide Pyramid. They consumed approximately 0.36 grams of protein and 1.3 grams of carbohydrates per pound of body weight per day. Study group participants increased the amount of protein they ate daily to about 0.73 grams per pound of body weight. And they reduced their intake of carbohydrates to 0.95 grams per pound of body weight.They also built their diets around high quality proteins, which provided the optimal level of leucine to improve body composition. Leucine has been shown to be a regulator of muscle, which is important to maintain when losing weight. While the body makes many other amino acids, it does not produce leucine. Leucine is found primarily in high quality protein foods such as beef, dairy products, poultry, fish and eggs.

Dr. Layman cautions that it is a mistake to think about dietary protein as a percent of calories. "What is important about my plan," he said, "is that protein needs are based on body weight and not on a percent of the calories consumed."

The study group's daily diet consisted of 9 to 10 ounces of meat, including at least seven beef meals per week, three servings of low-fat milk or cheese and a minimum of five servings of vegetables. They also included two servings of fruit and four servings of grains, pasta and rice. The study group ate in accordance with the National Cholesterol Education Program's Step 1 heart-healthy guidelines.

Most of the public debate about diet continues to focus on the extremes of very high (Atkins' Plan) or very low (Ornish Plan) levels of proteins. Dr. Layman's plan falls within the protein range recently recommended by the National Academy of Sciences Food and Nutrition Board. The USDA Food Guide Pyramid falls at the low end of the accepted protein range.

In Dr. Layman's study, both diet groups lost a similar amount of weight about 16 pounds, but the study group lost more body fat and less muscle mass than the control group. Those who followed the moderately high protein diet lost two pounds more of body fat, yet maintained one pound more muscle mass than the control group.

The study challenges the conventional wisdom about the role of low-fat foods in weight loss. Layman said, "Traditionally, people have built a diet around low-fat foods, instead of high quality protein foods. Study participants following the moderately high protein plan, which I call the 'Sensible Solution' were twice as effective in maintaining lean muscle mass," he said. "Muscle helps burn calories, but is often compromised during weight loss."

Nutrition experts have long debated the virtues of many of the high protein diets because of conventional concerns related to the consumption of saturated fat and cholesterol. However, Layman said, the opposite was true in his study. "The group following my diet lost fat, maintained muscle and had an improvement in total blood cholesterol level. Subjects found the eating plan easy to follow, allowing them to enjoy foods from all food groups."

Source: Condensed from a press release written by Jim Barlow, Life Science Editor, University of Illinois 2/10/03