Rudbeckia Leaf Spot

Many rudbeckia species are available to gardeners. You may know them as black-eyed Susans or orange coneflowers. One particularly unappealing disease of this species is Septoria leaf spot, caused by a fungus, septoria rudbeckiae. It is prevalent now in Illinois. The dark brown leaf spots are hard to miss, starting as 1/8-inch spots but quickly merging into large, brown areas on otherwise dark green leaves. The disease begins on lower leaves and progresses up the plant.

Another problem that might look similar is a bacterial disease, angular leaf spot. Angular leaf spot produces bacterial streaming from sections observed with a microscope. Septoria leaf spot produces fruiting bodies embedded in the spots. The fruiting bodies produce diagnostic, long, narrow spores.

Disease spread depends on leaf moisture. With recent rainfall in Illinois, there is not much you can do to stop spore splashing. Still, you can help prevent further disease spread by watering the soil, as opposed to syringing the foliage. Also try to prevent overcrowding of plants and keep weeds under control. Preventive fungicide applications protect new growth from Septoria leaf spot. Sprays should begin before symptoms appear, but there may be some benefit to newly forming leaves. Copper-based fungicides have some effect against both Septoria and the bacterium causing angular leaf spot. Copper products have protective-contact activity. A systemic product registered for this use by homeowners is Heritage. The active ingredient is azoxystrobin.

Author: Nancy Pataky, University of Illinois Extension

Don't Use Pet Manure in Vegetable Garden

Occasionally we get a call from a gardener about using pet manures as an organic amendment in soil. A recent question had to do with adding dog manure to soil in a vegetable garden and if it was safe to grow vegetables in the site. It is never a good idea to apply manure from cats or dogs to soil that will be used for growing vegetables. Some organisms that are harmful to humans can survive a cat or dog's digestive system and if their manure is applied to garden soil, can later contaminate vegetable surfaces. There are several parasites that can be transmitted to humans via dog or cat feces including roundworms, tapeworms and occasionally toxoplasmosis. Other pathogens include E. coli bacteria and salmonella, as well as others. There is also disagreement among sources as to whether composting pet manures will eliminate harmful organisms. Some say it does if the pile is "hot" composted and others say not. Since the risk of illness can be high, it is recommended that pet manures not be used at all in vegetable gardens.

Manure from cows, sheep, horse and poultry is often used to amend garden soil and is inherently less pathogenic to humans, although these manures have been reported to harbor microorganisms as well. Even after composting, manure mixes have been show to harbor disease-causing organisms. Animal wastes contain "pathogens to which humans are vulnerable, including salmonella and cryptosporidium" (Animal Water Pollution in America – 1997). There appears to be a consensus recommending that these animal manures and manure compost should not be used within 60 days of being produced. This waiting period may be critical when using these manures in vegetable gardens. In addition, be wary of hog manure; pigs carry parasitic roundworms that can be transmitted to humans.

It is imperative that vegetables be washed thoroughly before consumption, especially root crops and salad crops like lettuce, chard, radishes, onions, etc., that grow in the soil or close to the soil surface, as they may pick up soil and manure particles in rainy periods or as the gardener works with the plants.

Source: Weekly Garden News, June 2003

Leaf Roll on Tomato

It's not too surprising that we are seeing some tomato leaf roll this summer. Older tomato leaflets roll inward toward the mid-vein and the leaflets are somewhat leathery to the touch. This is not a disease or insect problem, but is physiological in nature. Leaflets take on a cupped appearance and eventually; the margins may touch or overlap. As much as three-fourths of the foliage may be affected on a single plant.

This is caused by a fluctuation in moisture in the root zone, going from ample moisture to a shortage, or by excessive pruning. Fortunately, this problem does not adversely affect the production of tomatoes. Leaves remain green and hang on the plant, though affected leaflets do not unroll. If you are irrigating, try to keep the soil moisture level consistent and account for rainfall when irrigating. Some tomato varieties are more susceptible to leaf roll than others, such as 'Beefsteak', 'Big Boy', and 'Floramerica'.

Source Ohio State Weekly Gardening News, June 2003

Fertilizing Tomatoes

We had many calls from gardeners late last season that had grown lush and massive tomato bushes, but the plants had set few, if any, fruits. Tomato growers should remember not to over fertilize plants. Only one application of fertilizer is made once the first blooms set fruit and that is all that is required for the season. Over fertilizing with nitrogen will grow lots of lush foliage, but few fruits. Use a fertilizer with a 1:2:2 ration such as 5-10-10, 6-12-12 or similar analysis fertilizer. The same is true for pepper and eggplant; only one application of fertilizer is needed after the first fruits set.

Source: Ohio State Weekly Gardening News, June 2003

July -

Edible

Harvest edible flowers in the morning after the dew has dried or just before sundown. Too much moisture can cause discoloration and loss of flavor. Leave stems in tact when picking and storing; remove them just before serving. Store loosely packed flowers in an airtight container with a moist paper towel folded in the bottom. Eat flowers on the same day as picked.

Sow seeds for late crops of bush beans, beets, carrots, Chinese cabbage, cucumbers and corn.

Watch leaves of tomato plants for septoria leaf spot and early blight. Septoria leaf spot develops on lower leaves as small, circular spots with gray centers. Early blight appears as small, brown concentric target spots on older leaves. Both of these diseases start with the lower leaves and work their way up the plant. Remove leaves with leaf spot or blight as soon as disease symptoms are seen.

Select herbs for drying. Those that are close to bloom are at their highest quality. Wash the plants with a garden hose the day before you plan to harvest them. Factsheet available

Ornamental
Water your plants a few hours before applying a pesticide. Plants that are drought stressed have less water in their tissues making them more susceptible to leaf burn after spraying.

Dry flowers now for arrangements. Early season blooms are better for drying than those in late summer. Cut the flowers during mid-day in the late bud or early bloom stage. Factsheet available.

Stop pinching back mums around July 4th. This will allow them to develop flower buds for the fall.

Use a piece of corrugated cardboard as a barrier when spraying a non-selective herbicide close to desired plants. Make sure the same side of the cardboard always faces the sprayer when moved from one spot to another.

Did you know that during dry spells a tree might shed up to 10% of its leaves? The leaf loss reduces water loss through transpiration and causes little or no harm to the tree.

August:

Edible
Save tomato and pepper seeds. To save tomato seeds, allow the fruit to fully ripen and scoop out the seeds along with the gel surround them. Place this in a glass jar with some water. Stir the mixture a couple times a day – the mixture will ferment and the seeds should sink to the bottom in about five days. Pour off the liquid, rinse the seeds and spread them out to dry on paper towels.
Pepper seeds are even easier to save. Allow some fruits to stay on the plants until they become fully ripe and start to wrinkle. The just remove the seeds and spread them out to dry.

Sow a cover crop to rejuvenate the soil. Factsheet available

Have your soil tested. Soil testing booklet available.

.

Ornamental
Plant pansies in late August for fall color.

Make a rose petal potpourri. To make rose petal potpourri, peel the petals off one-by-one. Place in a container where air can circulate and allow the petals to dry out completely.
After drying, add 2 to 3 drops of a matching fragrance and mix. For a more natural fragrance potpourri, brandy can be used to dampen the petals.
Attractive additions to rose petal potpourri can be delphinium blooms, lavender or rose leaves. If you can spare them, make the potpourri more luxurious by adding whole rosebuds or arranging them on the top.
The potpourri can be placed in a pretty dish or used in sachets; potpourri adds color and fragrance to your home and makes wonderful use of the rose garden long into the winter season.

Prepare and preserve gourds for a fall display. Factsheet available.

Renovate or seed lawn from August 15 – September 15. Factsheet available.

Indoor
Make a sticky trap to catch whiteflies indoors. To make a re-useable trap take an old pane of glass and spray one side with bright yellow paint. When the paint is dry, spread a very thin coat of motor oil on the unpainted side. Now place the piece of glass with the oil side up near infested plants. The whiteflies attracted by the yellow color will get stuck in the oil. Every month or so, wipe the glass clean and apply a fresh coat of oil.

Propagate African violets. Use a quality soil mix and soak it with warm water, allowing the water to drain so that the soil is moist, but not sopping. Select a healthy young leaf that has reached its full size. Using a clean, very sharp knife or razorblade, make a diagonal cut in the stem one and a half to two inches from the base of the leaf.

Poke a shallow hole in the soil mix at a low angle and insert the leaf stem. The leaf should be almost flat against the soil and up to a half inch of its stem should be in the soil. Firm the soil around the stem, put the container in a plastic bag, close the bag and set the container in a spot that is warm but not hot, light but not sunny.

In five to six weeks, new shoots should appear. When these new plantlets are about one-third the height of the original leaf, open the bag and allow them to adjust to room conditions for a few days. Afterwards, separate the plantlets from the parent and transplant them to their own containers.

Try these houseplants for low light conditions:
Aglaonema or "Chinese Evergreen"
Sansevieria or "snake plant"
Aspidistra or "Cast-iron plant"
Cyrtomium falcatum or "Rochford holly fern"
Kentia palm and Parlor palm

Water houseplants while on vacation. A temporary self-watering system in the bathtub may be just the solution. All you need is an old dish drying rack, some white cotton shoelaces and a bathroom that receives some natural light.

Set the dish rack upside-down in the tub and place the plants without their saucers on the rack. Poke the end of the shoelace into the soil mix through the drainage hole of each pot, pushing the lace in far enough that some of the fabric portion is in contact with the soil. Let the other end of the shoelace dangle into the tub. Run a few inches of cool water into the tub. The dangling shoelace acts as a wick, drawing water up from the tub to the soil mix, keeping your houseplants from drying out while you're away.

...German chocolate cake is not from Germany?

Like chop suey and chili, it is an American creation. In fact the correct name for the cake is "German's Chocolate Cake". At some point the "s" and the apostrophe were dropped. It is a rich, chocolate cake covered with a wonderfully gooey, sweet, coconut, caramel and pecan topping. Made from German's sweet chocolate – a division of Baker's Chocolate Company founded in 1765, which is now owned by Kraft Foods. In 1852 Samuel German developed a mild, dark, sweet baking chocolate bar and the product was named in his honor. A Texas homemaker purportedly developed the first recipe, which was printed in a Dallas newspaper in 1957. So you see, a German chocolate cake is just a chocolate cake unless it is made with "German's Sweet Chocolate".
Source: Baker's Chocolate Information at Kraft Foods & German Culture
www.germanculture.com.au/library

...dried herbs are more potent than fresh herbs?

It is logical, since drying concentrates the flavor of any food by removing the water content. There is a misconception that herbs, once dried, lose their potency. Dried herbs are 2 to 3 times more flavorful than their fresh counterpart. Sage is the exception, use 4 times as much as dried or rubbed sage. Of course, the freshness of dried herbs has much to do with potency. To test the freshness of an already-opened container. It should release a lively aroma from the concentration of volatile herb oils. If the aroma is mild, consider of dried herbs you may have on your shelf, crumble a small amount between your fingers. Inhale the fragrance using more to attain the same results in cooking. If there is no fragrance or a musty odor, discard and buy a new supply. Old dried herbs can ruin an otherwise good recipe.

...oversized zucchini contain a lesser amount of flavor?

Baseball-bat-sized zucchini is cottony and loaded with woody seeds. Watch garden zucchini closely as it can go from too small to overgrown in a matter of days. Medium zucchini weighing about 8 ounces is ideal – about 7 to 8 inches in length, and, do not peel zucchini; nutrients and flavor are concentrated in the green peel. While it is on the low end of the nutrition scale, peeling them will further reduce the fiber and vitamin A content. Zucchini is also extremely high in water – 95%. Fresh zucchini slices benefit from a generous sprinkling of salt and about 30 minutes standing time to pull off some of the water. This process does not reduce flavor. Rinse, blot with paper towels and proceed with the recipe. Delicious sautéed in olive oil with garlic or grilled.

Trees and shrubs that died over winter are quite obvious now. Most other vegetation is covered with green foliage, while winter killed material is stark or has small tufts of leaves scattered throughout the plant. Advice in the spring would
be to give the plant time to recover. By now, plants should have developed some new leaves if the plant had any chance of recovery. The Plant Clinic has received many complaints
of trees and shrubs that did not survive. What factor or factors
caused the death of so many trees and shrubs this winter?

The usual complaint we hear is that the tree or shrub looked fine in the fall and was dead this spring. If that were the case, the logical assumption is that winter injury is the culprit. Freeze injury during dormancy is one possibility. Another possibility is the injury that occurs following a sudden drop in temperatures in the fall. Cold acclimation usually occurs as temperatures fall. If temperatures fall rapidly (overnight), however, plant tissue is often injured. Cold damage can also occur in the spring when there is a cold snap just as tissues begin to expand. In that case, plants have begun deacclimation and are more susceptible to cold temperatures. Authors Sinclair, Lyon and Johnson, in Diseases of Trees and Shrubs, discuss these possibilities. Although individual cases of cold injury occurred, the general temperature conditions of the past winter in Illinois do not seem to account for the number of winter fatalities of trees and shrubs. Besides, we would expect all similar species in an area to be affected if cold injury were the only factor. That was not the case.

It is possible that the plants that supposedly looked fine last fall were already under stress. Drought stress is a likely key player in Illinois. Acute drought stress is obvious to most gardeners because plants wilt during the day and rehydrate at night. Symptoms are sudden and easy to see. A slow, continual lack of water as experienced last summer and fall, on the other hand, causes a reduced growth rate, reduced leaf size, off-color foliage and stem dieback. These symptoms might not be obvious because they happen slowly over the season. We saw these symptoms on many plants last year, especially white pine, birch and lindens. In many cases, frequent, shallow irrigation kept trees alive but also caused shallow root development. Trees with a shallow root system are not able to withstand more drought stress as readily as trees with deeper roots. The past winter was dry for most of Illinois; and winds are thought to have been a factor in the final desiccation of already drought-stressed trees.

Illinois has fared well with frequent rains. When drought hits again, help your trees by watering deeply on a weekly basis as long as drought occurs. Watering turf around the trees is usually not adequate for tree needs. A long, slow soak in the drip line is helpful, as are hose end root injections tools. Check tree books to determine the relative water needs of your tree. Birch, for instance, requires more water than most other trees, so it shows deficit more quickly. Most tree feeder roots are in the top 18 inches of soil. When watering the roots via the soil surface, apply at least an inch of water in each watering. If you use a soil injector, put the injector into the soil to about 18 inches. Injectors give a slower release of the water, but it is deeper into the soil with less loss to evaporation and surrounding turf. A disadvantage to injectors is that you can't be certain how much water you are applying.

Source: Author: Nancy Pataky, University of Illinois Extension

Two Asian countries may have growing wild in their pastures and on their mountainsides the secrets to preventing numerous human diseases. Uzbekistan and its neighbor, Kyrgyzstan, which together, are about the size of California and South Dakota, are teeming with wildflowers and plants that have been curing ailments for centuries, but without formal scientific testing and the quality control needed to distribute them to the rest of the world.

Researchers from Rutgers University and the University of Illinois are working together on a project that will ultimately bring the medicinal properties of Asian plants to the public. "The Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan people have anecdotal evidence that certain plants can cure or prevent diseases," said Mary Ann Lila, a plant scientist at the University of Illinois. "But they don't have the infrastructure. They don't have the ability to select the phytochemicals that are effective in a plant and standardize it so that each bottle of the resulting drug is identical in quality and potency."

Lila explained that when plants are stressed, they produce phytochemicals (plant-produced chemicals) to protect themselves against a fungus or other pest. These same chemicals can produce protective responses in humans against a similar fungus or disease. Lila simulates in the lab, situations that will cause the plant to produce these chemical products. "If we relied on harvesting the plants from the mountainside when we needed more, we would soon deplete the resource and the effectiveness could not be controlled – besides which, the plant may not be producing the chemical at the time we pick it. In the lab, we can control the conditions in order to more conclusively investigate what conditions trigger a plant to produce the protective chemicals."

By relying on the technical capabilities of Lila's lab at the U of I and her colleagues at Rutgers, the mysteries of the Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan plants can be unlocked so that these countries will be able to take it to the next level – from anecdotal evidence to reliable scientific data and ultimately to a drug that would be available to the world.

One plant the project will examine works like ephedrine, but without the problems associated with that drug. If its secret can be unlocked and produced in a form that the public can rely upon, it may be used to prevent fatigue, impotence and osteoporosis. Another plant, associated with many legends and folkloric tales about its magic powers, will be studied for its potential to have an effect on diabetes, respiratory infections and premenstrual and postmenopausal symptoms.

The entire project will encompass 10 major therapeutic areas and close to 60 disease specific targets in humans. Some of these include heart and gastric diseases, cancer, functional disturbances of the central nervous system, anemia, blood disorders, diabetes, gynecological disorders and skin diseases.

"This is not a commercial enterprise, but a gift to mankind," Lila said. "These countries have hidden knowledge that is not available to the public and they are eager to have the U. S. federal government support for this unprecedented collaboration. Most of these plants have medicinal properties for which there are no counterparts in synthetic medicine."

Lila said that she and her colleagues from Rutgers were the first American biologists to step foot into the collaborating Asian institutions, including Samarqand University and the Kyrgyzstan Agrarian Institute. "and, for both institutions, it was the first time that any scientist from the West had proposed large-scale, long-term collaboration, supported with funds from the U. S. government," Lila said.

The National Institutes of Health, the United States Department of Agriculture and the National Science Foundation with matching funds provide from corporate sponsors funding for this research.

Source: Mary Ann Lila, University of Illinois

The International Herb Society has designated basil as the Herb of the Year 2003. Sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum) is a sun-loving annual with highly aromatic leaves that has a pleasant spicy odor and taste somewhat like anise or cloves. Both the leaves and their essential oils are used as flavoring agents. There are many different types of sweet basil – large and dwarf forms, with green, purple or variegated leaves. Many of these widely grown plants are ornamental, as well as edible.

The genus Ocimum is native to Asia, Africa and Central and Southern America. Basil was probably first cultivated in India and was introduced in ancient times to Africa and the Mediterranean through the spice routes. Basils belong to the mint family and have the square stems, opposite leaves, flower spikes and oil glands typical of many members of this plant family. The ancient Greeks called basil "The Herb of Kings." (The name for sweet basil comes from the Greek okimon, basil, and basilikos, royal.) It was believed that only the king himself should harvest this herb and only using a golden sickle. In Romania, basil had a different meaning: The meaning in Greece was less romantic – there it was a symbol of death and hatred!

Varieties
There are many cultivars of sweet basil available today, as well as several related species of Ocimum that are also used for cooking and ornamental purposes. Most vegetable seed retailers offer a number of choices.

• Cinnamon Basil has distinctive cinnamon-colored stems, purple flowers tinged with bronze and small to medium sized, dark green leaves. These ornamental plants can reach 3 feet in height and width and the leaves have a cinnamon-like taste and odor.
• 'Dark Opal' has beautiful deep red-purple foliage and lovely pink flowers. In addition to culinary use, it makes a nice, fragrant border along a walkway.
• 'Genovese' (or 'Genova') is a standard, flat--leafed Italian type commonly used for making pesto. The leaves are 3-4 inches long and 2-3 inches wide, with a sweet, spicy taste. Plants can reach 5 feet, but are more productive if kept pruned back.
• Holy basil (O. tenuiflorum or sanctum; also called Tulsi or Sacred Basil) has highly aromatic, narrow oval leaves and pink flowers with a perfumed fragrance. It grows to about 18 inches high. Both red and green leafed varieties occur.
  
• Lemon basil (O. americanum or citriodorum) has small, light green leaves and a lemony fragrance. It is often used in Indonesian cuisine or to flavor fish and can be added to tea for an interesting lemony flavor.
  
• 'Magical Michael', a 2002 AAS winner, reliably grows uniformly 15 inches tall and 16-17 inches wide (uniformity is rare in sweet basil plants). The small purple and white flowers are attractive as a garnish and as an ornamental are very attractive to bees.
  
• 'Nufar' is a Fusarium wilt-resistant Genovese-type plant with mild flavor.
  
• 'Purple Ruffles' has very large, dark shiny purple-black, ruffled and fringed leaves and pink flowers. It is ideal for providing contrast in bedding or containers, as well as being an edible herb. Other purple basils include 'Purpurascens,' 'Opal' and the dwarf 'Minimum Purpurascens.'
  
• 'Red Rubin' is a new purple leaf variety that maintains its deep color through the season.
  
• 'Siam Queen' is a very fragrant selection with extra large, bright green leaves on large, purple-red stemmed plants that bear violet-pink flowers. It works well as a container plant or edging beds, as well as in the vegetable garden. Especially good for Thai cuisine.
  
• 'Spicy Globe' forms a compact plant about 6 inches high and 12 inches across. Can be used in the border or as a container plant.
  
• 'Sweet Dani' is a narrow leaved, lemony variety developed at Purdue University that was a AAS winner in 1998.

Cultivation
Basil is easily grown from seed or can be purchased as small potted plants. Plant seeds early in spring, sowing the seed at a half an inch deep. They can be sown directly in the ground after all danger of frost has passed or can be started indoors 4-6 weeks before setting out (use 2-3 seeds per pot) for earlier harvests. Germination can occur in 5 to 7 days, but will take longer under cool conditions. Place plants outside 12-15 inches apart.

Basil is a warm season plant, requiring temperatures above 50 degrees to grow, but does best when temperatures are in the 80s and 90s. Plant basil in full sun, in well-drained soil. Water adequately to produce tender leaves, but be careful not to overwater. Basil needs more fertilizer than most herbs. Incorporate compost before planting or top dress at planting to keep the plants producing leaves all season.

Pinch off the terminal shoots to encourage branching and tender new growth and slow down flower production. When the plant stems become woody and stop producing, cut the plants back a third and fertilize to stimulate new growth. In midseason the plants will begin to produce spikes of small white, pink or purple flowers. Remove these flower spikes to keep the plant producing leaves up to frost.

Basil is generally easy to grow, but may be attacked by common garden pests such as spider mites (especially when hot and dry), aphids, Japanese beetles or other insects. Hosing off the plants or applying insecticidal soap or removing the beetles by hand can control these. A few generalist fungal or bacterial diseases may occasionally affect individual plants. Root rots (or damping off of seedlings) occur primarily when the soil is too wet.

Basil sown in pots in midsummer can be brought indoors to continue growing during the winter. Place the pot in a bright, sunny window for best results.

Harvest
Selectively remove individual leaves or pinch off tips that have one or two sets of leaves as needed for fresh use at any time. Basil does not refrigerate well, but can be kept there for a few days. Another alternative is to place the stems in water to keep the sprigs fresh for a few days.

Just before the plants begin to flower, the whole plants can be cut 6-8 inches from the ground. Basil is a very tender plant and will be damaged by frost, with the leaf tissue turning black. Either cover the plants completely or make a final harvest when the first frost is predicted.

Basil can be preserved by drying but does not freeze well.

Uses
Basil is most commonly associated with Italian and Thai cuisine. Most Italian dishes with tomatoes also use basil. Basil is the essential ingredient in pesto. The leaves, fresh or dried, may be used in many other dishes, as well. Infusions of the leaves can flavor oil or vinegar and leaves can be steeped for teas.

Source: International Herb Society

We have taken numerous calls about carpenter Ant nests in trees. Carpenter ants normally do not need to be controlled in trees because they usually cause little or no damage to the tree.

Carpenter ants vary in size and color. The black carpenter ant is probably the most common species in landscapes. Worker ants are non-reproducing females that are wingless and black. Workers come in two size ranges. Minor workers are approximately 1/4 inch long and do much of the food foraging, nest construction and larval feeding; they also attend the queen. Major workers are also wingless and black, but are about 1/2 inch long and play a major role in defending the nest and minor workers.

The black carpenter ant is the only carpenter ant in Illinois that commonly locates its nests in buildings. They tunnel out wood that is damp or decaying from roof or water – pipe leaks. (The red carpenter ant is another common species; with red, wingless workers that are about inch long. Other, smaller species of carpenter ants are also found in Illinois).

Carpenter ants build their nests by hollowing out rotting wood; they do not eat the wood. Workers take mouthful-sized chips of wood to the nest entrance, where they deposit the chips. This results in a pile of coarse sawdust at the base of a tree. The nest itself consists of meandering, 1/4 inch diameter tunnels that are free of sawdust. Egg laying, larval rearing and pupation take place within these tunnels. Nests may be present in rotting wood in trunks, limbs or roots.

Nests that are at least five years old will contain winged reproductives. Black carpenter ant males are 1/4 inch long and have two pairs of clear wings. The queens are approximately 3/4 inch long and also have two pairs of clear wings. Both sexes emerge from the colony in early morning and fly towards the light to escape the colony. Mating occurs and the reproductives break their wings off at weakened spots. Then they tunnel into damp, rotting wood to start a new colony.

Carpenter ant nests in trees are an indication of rotting wood. Such trees should be checked to determine whether the rot has weakened the tree enough that it becomes a hazard. Nests in trees close to as house may result in ants entering the house to forage. This nuisance can be eliminated by spraying an insecticide into the nest or by pruning overhanging limbs at least three feet back from the roof. Otherwise, carpenter ant nests do not directly weaken the tree and do not usually require control.

Author: Philip Nixon, University of Illinois Extension

Perennial Resource
http://www.perennialresource.com
Information on more than 1,000 perennials including descriptions of the plants, cultural information, landscape use and companion plants.

Common Problems for Vegetable Gardens
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/vegproblems/
Learn about common vegetable insects and diseases.

July
...Irrigation (as needed or allow lawn to go dormant)
...Monitoring for pests/problems (sod webworm)

August
...Monitor for pests (annual white grubs mid-August thru September) (Sod webworm)
...Irrigation (as needed)
...Prepare for seeding, overseeding (optimum time)
...Seeding – latter half of month (optimum time)

One bright summer day a grasshopper happened upon a family of ants hard at work "putting food by" for the winter. "Why are you working so hard on this wonderful summer day?" asked the grasshopper. Barely looking up one ant replied, "there is a time for work and a time for play." Needless to say, "putting food by" for the winter is not a necessity today. Anyone who takes the time to can, freeze or dry food at home is not doing it out of necessity or to save money. So, why sacrifice rest and comfort to do it? Some do it for fun, for gift giving or as a hobby, while others do it for the satisfaction of having fresh, homegrown food that is not mass-produced. Whatever your reason–now is the time.
From: The Grasshopper and the Ants by Aesop

Tomatoes are a favorite among urban gardeners and food preservers. One can say tomatoes are ubiquitous to almost every kitchen in every culture. A medium tomato contains about 25 calories, over half the recommended allowance for vitamin C, lots of vitamin A and some fiber. Tomatoes also contain lycopene, flavonoids and other important phytochemicals that help to protect against chronic disease including several forms of cancer. And there is nothing tastier than a fresh vine-ripened tomato.

Freezing Raw Tomatoes
Freezing is the easiest method of preserving tomatoes. Upon thawing, the tomatoes will not be suitable for use on sandwiches or in fresh salads, but, they will be delicious in cooked and combination dishes. Tomatoes will not be solid when thawed.
1. Select fresh, firm tomatoes, deep in color and at the peak of ripeness.
2. Wash and dip in boiling water for 30 seconds to loosen skins. Cool in cold water.
3. Core and peel. Freeze whole or chop.
4. Pack into freezer containers or freezer bags leaving 1-inch headspace between tomatoes and top of container.
5. Seal and freeze. Label and date. Use within a year.

Canning Basics – Safe Canning Methods
There are only two safe ways of canning, depending on the type of food being canned. These are the boiling water canner method and the pressure canner method. The boiling water canner method is safe for tomatoes, fruits and pickles as well as jams and jellies. In this method, jars of food are heated completely covered with boiling water and processed for a given amount of time.

Pressure canning is the only safe method for canning vegetables (such as corn, green beans, peppers, etc.), meats, poultry and seafood or any combination of these foods. In this method jars are placed in 2 to 3 inches of water in a pressure canner, which is heated to a temperature of at least 240°F (steam). This temperature can only be reached in a pressure canner at 11 pounds per square inch (psi).

Heat processing is necessary to preserve all canned food as it kills mold, yeast and bacteria that may cause spoilage and/or contamination during storage. All commercially canned foods are heat processed.

Canning Jars and Lids
Standard Mason-type canning jars with two-piece lids designed for home canning are best. Only commercial mayonnaise jars can safely be recycled in boiling water bath canning, but they will break in pressure canning. Use two-piece canning lids on mayo jars. Most hardware stores and some grocery stores in Chicago stock home canning jars and supplies. Ask the manager.

Dried Tomatoes
In order to sun dry tomatoes or any other food the weather conditions must be just right. That is long, hot, dry, breezy summer days. We do not have days like that in Chicago. So, forget sun-drying anything in our area. That leaves dehydrator or oven drying. To use a dehydrator, follow the instructions that came with your equipment.

To Use Your Oven

First, check your dial and see if it has a reading as low as 140 degrees F. If your oven does not go this low, then your food will cook (slowly) instead of dry.

For air circulation, leave the oven door propped open 2 to 6 inches. Circulation can be improved by placing a fan outside the oven near the door to remove moist air. Caution: This is not a safe practice for a home with small children.

Because the door is left open, the temperature will vary. An oven thermometer placed near the food gives an accurate dreading. Adjust the temperature dial to achieve the needed 140 degrees F for the length of the drying time.

Preheat oven to 150 degrees F. Drop drying temperature to 140 degrees F after 1-2 hours. Trays should be narrow enough to clear the sides of the oven and should be 3 to 4 inches shorter than the oven from front to back. Cake cooling racks placed on top of cookie sheets work well. The oven racks, holding the trays, should be 2 to 3 inches apart for air circulation.

To Prepare Tomatoes for Drying
Steam for 3 minutes or blanch by dipping in boiling water for 1 minute to loosen the skins. Immediately chill in cold water just long enough so they can be handled. Peel. Cut into sections about inch wide or slice. Cut small pear or plum tomatoes in half. Arrange tomatoes on trays. Dehydrator time is 10 to 18 hours. Drying time in a conventional oven could be up to twice as long, depending on air circulation. Store dried tomatoes in an airtight container. If you are uncertain as to the quality of the dried tomatoes, place in freezer bags and store in freezer; use within a year.

It's true; some luscious and nutritious fruits have poisonous seeds.
For instance, apple seeds are poisonous. According to the American Medical Association's Handbook of Poisonous and Injurious Plants, eating too many apple seeds can be fatal. The toxin in them is cyanogenic glycoside a.k.a. cyanide.

What is a lethal dose?
Apple seeds from a single apple that are swallowed whole or chewed and eaten in such small quantities are harmless. A single case of fatal cyanide poisoning has been documented in an adult who chewed and swallowed a cup of apple seeds. Why? Unknown!

Since the cyanogenic glycosides in apple seeds must be hydrolyzed in the gastro enteric tract before cyanide is released, several hours may elapse before symptoms appear. Symptoms may include abdominal pain, vomiting, lethargy and profuse sweating.

Cyanosis is not inevitable. In severe intoxications, coma develops and may be accompanied by titanic convulsions, muscle flaccidity and incontinence. Conscious patients may require only gastric lavage (stomach pumped) to recover completely.

Children will be affected by a smaller amount of apple seeds than adults. According to Shirley Corriher's book, CookWise, 15 apricot kernels, which also contain cyanide, can kill a child. Of course, it is best not to consume any apple seeds or apricot kernels. If you are juicing apples or cooking apples to make apple butter, it would be prudent to remove the seed pocket first.

Other bad seeds
Apple seeds – black seeds inside core pocket
Apricot kernels – the kernel inside the pit is poisonous
Cherries – the stone
Nectarine pits – kernel inside the pit
Peach pits – kernel inside the pit
Plums – the kernel inside the pit

Source: AMA Handbook of Poisonous & Injurious Plants by Dr. K. F. Lampe & M. A. McCann, Chicago, IL 1985.

On July 11, 2003, the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) published a final rule requiring manufacturers to list trans fatty acids or trans fat on the Nutrition Facts panel of conventional foods and some dietary supplements. The amount of trans fat per serving of food will appear under the Total Fat section of the label. It will be measured in grams.

Why is this information important, you ask? Well, like saturated fat, trans fat raises the LDL cholesterol ("bad" cholesterol) in your blood. An elevated LDL cholesterol level will increase your risk of developing coronary heart disease (CHD). If you already have CHD, you should avoid trans fat as much as possible.

Most trans fat in foods we eat are man made. It is difficult to explain in laymen's terms, but basically trans fats are increased when a mechanical process converts liquid polyunsaturated oil to a semi-solid shortening. Adding hydrogen does this – thus the term hydrogenation.

If you check ingredient lists on cookies, cakes, crackers and some ready-to-eat breakfast cereals you may see this phrase "vegetable shortening – contains partially hydrogenated vegetable oil". That's the trans fat. Trans fat is also in anything fried in shortening, such as the fries and other food items at fast food restaurants. A very, very small amount of trans fat occurs naturally in foods.

The food industry uses partially hydrogenated vegetable oil because it has a longer shelf life than liquid oil. Packaged foods stay fresher longer because the fat does not become rancid as quickly. According to the FDA, the average American eats 5 grams of trans fat per day.

Remember, nutrition is not an exact science. It is an evolving and ever changing science. The human body is extremely complicated. And, as researchers learn more about the food we eat and the effect it may have on our health, old theories and practices will continue to change. The new information may have an impact on how you select margarine and other products.

Total Fat – all types of fats from both animal and plants sources.

Calorie – a unit of measure. Calories measure the energy available in energy-containing nutrients, i.e., proteins, carbohydrates and fats.

Saturated Fat – fats that hold their shape at room temperature (about 70 degrees F). Some examples are butter, stick margarine, bacon drippings, beef fat, palm oil, shortening, etc. This type of fat will not melt into a liquid that pours without being heated. Fats and oils are either saturated or unsaturated – generally a combination of saturated and unsaturated. Saturated fat raises LDL cholesterol too.

Unsaturated Fat – these fats are liquid. They can be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated. Olive oil is an example of an unsaturated fat, which is high in monounsaturates. Fats that are primarily unsaturated are liquid at room temperature.

Trans Fat – the official name is "Trans Fatty Acids" but most people just say trans fat. Trans fats are made during hydrogenation of vegetable oils. When hydrogen is mechanically added, liquid oils solidify. Trans fat raises LDL cholesterol.

1 Tablespoon	Calories	Total Fat	*Sat/Unsat	Trans Fat	Cholesterol
Butter	102	10.8 grams	7/4 grams	0.3 grams	31 grams
Margarine (stick)	101	11.4 grams	2/9 grams	2.4 grams	0 grams
Margarine (soft tub)	60	5.6 grams	1/5 grams	0.6 grams	0 grams

*Saturated/Unsaturated

This does not mean butter is better than margarine because of the trans fat. Although some margarine contains more trans fat than butter, the total trans plus saturated fat (the LDL cholesterol raising fat) is always less than the total for butter. The best choice is moderate amounts of soft tub margarine.

For more information on the Nutrition Facts Panel and Trans Fat, visit the FDA website at http://vm.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/gatrans.html or to view the new Nutrition Facts Label at http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/labtr.html. Local Greenline subscribers who cannot access the web site may request a copy of the Trans Fat Factsheet by calling the Extension office at 773-233-0476 and ask for Gladys.

Source: Food & Drug Administration Center for Food Safety & Applied Nutrition, Office of Food Labeling

So Easy to Preserve
Avoid following home canning advice from untrained celebrities, TV chefs, old cookbooks, "back-to-nature" publications and out-of-date home canning leaflets. Some potentially dangerous instructions can even be found in old official USDA publications. Be sure you have the latest publications based on current research.

The US Department of Agriculture is the authority on home food preservation. Research is ongoing as to the safest methods of preserving food at home in today's ever-changing world of microorganisms. Based on the results of this research, recommendations may change. Currently the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Service is the research base for the USDA.

The latest publication is called 'So Easy To Preserve" fourth edition. It contains over 250 tested recipes and step-by-step instructions for canning, freezing and drying. To order send a check for $15.00 payable to University of Georgia to:

So Easy to Preserve
Attention: Kelly Lee
215 Connor Hall
University of Georgia
Athens, GA 30602

Visit the National Center for Home Food Preservation at www.uga.edu/nchfp/ and check out the Extension site, Watch Your Garden Grow for information on growing, selecting, storing and cooking with tomatoes at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/veggies/ .

Homemade Canned Tomato Salsa Recipe

Canned Salsa (Hot Tomato-Pepper Sauce)
The type of tomato you use often affects the quality of salsas. Paste tomatoes, such as Roma, have firmer flesh and produce thicker salsas than large slicing tomatoes. Although both types make good salsa, slicing tomatoes usually yield a thinner, more watery salsa than paste tomatoes. Adding a few tablespoons tomato paste will thicken the salsa. Makes about 7 pint jars.

10 cups peeled, cored, chopped tomatoes
5 cups seeded, chopped chili pepper (use mixture of mild and hot peppers)
4 cups chopped onions
1 cup chopped cilantro
1 cup white vinegar
3 teaspoons canning salt
teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional

1.Drop tomatoes into boiling water for 30 seconds to loosen skin. Cool in ice water. Peel, core and chop.
2. Chop remaining vegetables by hand or pulse in a food processor. Do not puree. Combine all ingredients in a large saucepan. Heat to a boil and simmer 10 minutes.
3. Ladle hot sauce into clean pint jars, leaving inch headspace. Prepare canning lids according to directions on the box. Seal jars with canning lid and screw band. Process in boiling water bath canner for 15 minutes.
4. Use jar lifters to remove hot jars for the canner. If you do not have jar lifters, use tongs. Cool completely; check seals, label and date. Use within one year.

Inspect Home-Canned Foods Before Using
Home canned food can be kept for up to one year for optimum nutritional value and quality. Store in a cool place, away from direct sunlight. Inspect the jars before opening:
1. Glass jars: metal lids should be firm and flat or curved slightly inward. There should be no sign of leakage around the rubber-sealing compound. If there is mold growth around the exterior neck of the jar, there may be mold growth inside. Check for signs of "gassiness" – floating food, bubbles rising in the food and swollen lid.
2. As the jar is opened, notice whether there is an inrush or an out rush of air. Air rushing out or liquid spurting out indicates spoilage.
3. Smell the contents at once. The odor should be characteristic of the food. An "off" odor probably means spoilage (acid, acrid, sour, putrid, etc.).
4. Check the food carefully to see that it appears to have a characteristic texture and color. Liquids in all foods should be clear. Any change from the natural texture and/or color may indicate spoilage. Do not taste any questionable food).
5. Discard canned food with signs of spoilage by detoxifying. This is done to prevent pets and other humans from eating.

To Detoxify:
Carefully remove lid from jar. Place containers and lids in a large pot (8 qt. or larger). No need to remove the food from the jar – (removing it could contaminate other items.) cover containers with water to at least 1" over them. Put lid on pot and bring to a boil. Boil 30 minutes. Cool. Drain water and dispose of food and lid.

Jars may be reused. Scrub all counters, containers, equipment (can opener), clothing and hands that may have had contact with the food. Surfaces that come in contact with food should be cleaned with solution of 1 part chlorine bleach to 5 parts water. Wet the surface with this solution and let stand 5 minutes before rinsing.

Susan Brewer, Foods & Nutrition Specialist Revised: July 2002