I hope you enjoy the latest issue of The Greene Thumb. It's another way that University of Illinois Extension – Greene County can provide educational information to local citizens.

The newsletter is also a way for us to utilize the time and talents of local volunteers. We certainly appreciate the Master Gardeners and their willingness to share their time and training with local residents.

I invite you to check out the upcoming events on our website.Please contactour office at 217/942-6996or greene_co@extension.uiuc.edu for more information or to make reservations. Anyone needing a reasonable accommodation to participate in our program should contact me at 217/942-6996.

Thanks to Kim Dankoski, Office Support Associate, for her assistance with this newsletter.

University of Illinois Extension Master Gardeners: Alice Dodson, Glenna Wright, Linda Sullivan, and Carolyn McCarry.

Happy Gardening,

Rick Keim, County Extension Director, Greene County

There are more than 50 spring-flowering bulbs that can be planted in the fall. Of course, the most common are tulips, daffodils and crocuses. Others have more exotic names, such as Pischkinia, Chionodoxa, Allium gigantum, fritillaria and anemone.

Bulbs are living plants that contain the makings of complete flowers. If you slice through a bulb vertically, you might be able to see next year's leaves, stem and flowers. However, most bulbs have to go through a chilling or cold period in order to produce the flower buds.

Surrounding most bulbs are fleshy "scales" that supply nourishment throughout the winter and early spring. Scales are actually modified leaves.

The paper thin wrapping around the outside of the bulb is called a tunic and provides protection from insects and diseases. Many homeowners mistakenly remove the tunic before planting.

The flat bottom of the bulb is the basal plate and the location of new roots.

Since the bulb is a living plant, it is susceptible to change. Ground

temperatures in the 50's stimulate root growth, while temperatures in the 40's may trigger leaf and stem growth after a root system has developed.

Spring flowering bulbs must be planted in the fall in order to take advantage of winter's temperatures. Planting from mid-September through November ensures the 15 to 20 week cooling period necessary for root growth.

Good drainage is essential for all spring-flowering bulbs. If the soil is heavy clay or sand, condition it with liberal additions of organic matter such as peat moss or compost in amounts up to 50 percent of the volume. Fertilization improves bulb performance and encourages bulbs to perennialize. Two fertilizing methods are recommended for spring-flowering bulbs.

The first method uses a sulfur-coated, slow-release, complete fertilizer. The fertilizer—available at garden centers and nurseries—is applied to the rooting area at the rate of one rounded tablespoon per square foot at fall planting. Complete fertilizers contain nitrogen, an element that only recently has been found to be beneficial to fall-planted spring bulbs. The nitrogen is absorbed by the bulb and used to produce flowers and leaves next spring.

The second method uses a handful of bone meal applied to each square foot of rooting area, together with an application of 8-8-8 (1 tablespoon) or 10-10-10 (one heaping teaspoon) per square foot in the fall. Again, it is important that there is nitrogen in the fertilizer.

Make a second application of either fertilizer in the spring when shoots break through the soil surface.

Bulb roots grow down and out, so planting depths and spacing are important. Large bulbs such as tulips and daffodils should be planted 8 inches deep from the ground to the basal plate and 4 to 6 inches apart. Smaller bulbs such as crocus and grape hyacinths should be spaced 4 inches deep and 2 inches apart.

After planting bulbs, cover halfway with conditioned soil, and water thoroughly. Add the remaining soil, and water the area again.

Finally, cover the area with a 3-inch layer of mulch. Wood chips, peat moss or bark are good choices because they do not mat and prevent water and nutrients from soaking into the soil.

- David Robson, Extension Educator, Horticulture

Now is a good time to begin harvesting black walnuts. In general, the light colored black walnut kernels will have a milder flavor than the dark ones. If you prefer light colored kernels, it is recommended that you hull the nuts as soon as they drop from the tree. Allowing the hulls to partially decompose before hulling causes a discoloration of the kernels.

When black walnuts are mature, their hulls will be thick and fleshy. They can be mashed and removed by hand, but using mechanical devices such as a corn sheller will make the job a lot easier. After hulling, wash the nuts thoroughly, and spread out away from sunlight to dry for two to three weeks. Then store in a cool, dry place.

Because the hard shell can make it difficult to remove the black walnut kernel, it is suggested that you "temper" the kernels before the shell is cracked. To "temper" the black walnuts, plan to soak the nuts in water for one to two hours, drain and then keep in a closed container for 10 to 12 hours. The kernels will absorb enough moisture to become tough, yet will remain loose in the shell.

For individuals wanting more information about growing your own nut trees, selecting appropriate nut tree varieties, learning about their insect or disease pests or harvesting nuts, a pamphlet entitled "Nut Growing in Illinois" is available online at this University of Illinois Extension website: www.aces.uiuc.edu/~vista/html_pubs/NUTGROW/nuthome.html

- Bob Frazee, Extension Educator, Natural Resources Management

Many grassy weeds thrived on all the water received this year. Crabgrass, foxtail, goosegrass and quackgrass are several of the problem species popping up in lawns and gardens.

Grassy weeds are difficult to control. Most are overtly aggressive and smother desirable grass species in the lawn. In garden areas, weeds seem to grow to large lengths overnight.

No chemical on the market satisfactorily controls the weeds without damaging the grass. Hand pulling and regular mowings seem to be the only options to limit seed production.

Crabgrass is the most common grassy lawn weed. Its large leaf and aggressive nature prevents bluegrass from growing adequately. Seeds germinate throughout the spring and early summer. Crabgrass is often called watergrass.

Seed heads form in late August and resemble a chicken's foot. Crabgrass's initial growth is upright, but mowing it causes the plant to grow horizontally. When the plant starts to flower, the first flower spikes are upright, until they are mowed. Then the plant responds by producing seed heads practically at mower level. Frequent mowings can limit next year's crop but are not an absolute.

Goosegrass tends to be prostrate with a grayish green color and an obvious open center, whitish in color.

Foxtails are more difficult to identify. Flower stalks are usually erect and subject to mowing off. Leaf blades are as wide as or wider than crabgrass.

Quackgrass is sometimes given the name joint grass since the plant produces runners that root frequently, increasing a problem in the turf.

With the exception of quackgrass, the other grassy weeds are classified as annuals. Cooler temperatures will kill most of them, though not before they produce seeds for next year's crop. What's left are patches of dead turf scattered throughout the yard.

Hoeing and tilling are options to remove weeds in the garden areas. Avoid hoeing or tilling deep; most grass roots are shallow. Deep soil cultivation may damage the roots of vegetables and flowers, increasing the chances of late diseases.

Make sure to remove the weeds to the compost pile. Quackgrass can root after removal and actually increase your problem.

Grassy lawn weeds may need to be spot treated with a non-selective herbicide such as glyphosate (Round-Up or Kleen-Up). Careful application of the chemical can limit damage to desirable turf. However, expect some damage to occur. There are some selective herbicides for annual grasses, though they can be weather-influenced, especially with high temperatures and humidity. Don't forget about hand weeding. This may be an acceptable method for limited weed infestations.

You can create a satisfactory lawn weed herbicide applicator by tying or taping a sponge or cotton washcloth to the end of a mop or broom handle. Dip the sponge or cloth in the pre-mixed chemical solution and run it across the weeds. Avoid dripping the chemical on desired species.

An old wringer/roller mop will also work adequately. Make sure the chemical bucket is large enough to handle the mop or applicator without spilling.

Read and follow all labeled directions when mixing and using the chemical.

Grass seed can be sown approximately two weeks after treatment with glyphosate. New grass seed should be sown as soon as possible after September 1 to allow for quick establishment and development before winter.

- David Robson, Extension Educator, Horticulture