University of Illinois Extension

Master Gardener Meeting

Effingham County

Tuesday, March 10^th, 2009

The meeting was called to order by the President Normalie Strickland at 6:05 P.M. Leslie Niebrugge, Purnima Shah, Karen Hakman, Brenda Roedl, Normalie and Rita Kemme were in attendance. Meeting was called early so that we could take in the Gardening program to be presented by Tony Bratsch at 6:30 P.M.

Minutes: of the February meeting were read and with a motion by Purnima and a second by Leslie, these were approved.

Financial: Not available. Brenda said that she has ordered the Garden Gate books #'s 13 and 14 for $45.00. She also ordered the Telenets for $120.00. Both of these were approved at the last meeting.

Old Business: The plant sale was discussed and at this time the financial status of our funds are not stable. Rita moved and Karen seconded that we hold off on the plant sale until we are sure that our money would go into a fund for us to use. Motion carried.

Brenda's Notes: Cross: The early flowers are blooming and Brenda found a bagworm on another tree. We need to get the repellant to put on the trees so that can be done in April.

Nursing Home: Tomato plants are up and growing.

New Business: The program that Tony is giving has a fee of $10:00 per person. Purnima moved and Leslie seconded that we take the money from the Master Gardener account to pay for those that attend. All those at the meeting plus Dorothy were going to the program. The motion carried. That would be $60:00 to be taken out of the account.

Adjourn: Leslie moved and Karen seconded that the meeting be adjourned. Meeting adjourned at 6:25. Next meeting will be on April 14^th, at 6:30 P.M.

Submitted by: Rita Kemme, secretary

- Rita Kemme

Eastern tent caterpillar, Malacosoma americanum (Fabricius),

is a widespread defoliator of trees in the eastern U.S. Despite its name, the eastern tent caterpillar occurs as far west as the Rocky Mountains. Its favorite hosts are wild cherry, chokeberry, apple, and crabapple. The caterpillars will also construct web tents in a wide variety of trees including ash, oak, maple, cherry, peach, and plum. Their tents or webs are most prevalent in April, May, and early June.

The black, hairy caterpillars hatch from eggs in the spring from an over- wintering mass of eggs. Caterpillars usually select a fork or branch for the construction of a tent from which they go forth and feed on the newly opened leaves. As the caterpillars grow, so does the size of the tent. Damage to the tree can be severe because infested trees are forced to use their remaining stored reserves in the early spring to produce new leaves. The caterpillars leave the tent during the day to feed but return at night, and they feed for five or six weeks before the caterpillars are fully grown.

The fully-grown caterpillars are generally black with a white stripe down the back and a series of blue dots between yellow lines that run the length of the caterpillar. When they reach this stage, they leave the host-feeding tree and go to another location such as a fence, tree trunk, or some other protected space to spin a white cocoon in which they will transform into a reddish-brown moth that has two white strips running across each forewing. The adult moths emerge in late June or early July to mate and lay eggs for the following year.

Eastern tent caterpillars occur in abundance at cyclic intervals of about 10 years. As the population builds, so do natural enemies such as birds. In the meantime, damage can be reduced on small trees by getting rid of the egg masses during the winter or by clipping and destroying the tents and their occupants. Because larvae do not venture out of their tent during rainy, cool days, or at night, these are the best times to remove tents. For chemical control, most insecticides will not penetrate the web tent so you must break open the tent before applying the insecticide. Some recommended chemical controls include acephate, Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki, and carbaryl. If chemical control is warranted, Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki is the preferred insecticide because it selectively kills the caterpillar and not the natural enemies of other pests. Always read the label and follow all instructions, including allowable plants to be treated.

- from The Master Gardener Newsletter

Many summertime lawn ills can be prevented with some attention now. The secret to a good lawn is to have it in the best condition possiblebefore the stresses of summer begin. Grass death in the Midwest is

usually due to diseases.

To avoid these diseases, the grass should be well rooted into the soil; have a minimum of thatch; be adequately, but not excessively,fertilized; and either properlywatered or allowed to go dormant in dry weather.

Start by digging out a plug of turf and examining it for thatch. This is a brown-to-black layer of old roots and rhizomes above the clay soil. If the layer is more than 1/2 inch thick, core aerify.

A core aerification will make 3-inch deep holes every 2 inches or so throughout the lawn. The holes will penetrate the thatch mat, allowing better infiltration of water and nutrients to the grass roots.

If bare areas larger than 3 square inches exist, dig out the dead grass, thatch, and roots, and then loosen the soil. Sow a blend of three or four Kentucky bluegrasses and no more than 25 percent perennialryegrass in these spots. Gently rake the seed into the soil and firm with the back of a shovel or a light roller. Moisten and cover with a light layer of straw.

Do not apply a complete lawn fertilizer to the entire lawn untilmid-May.

Crabgrass preventer should beapplied in early April. If you have done any re-seeding, be sure to use siduron-containing crabgrass control such as Tupersan, which kills some germinating annual grasses but won't do much damage to your new grass seedlings. Wait until May or September to apply weed control for broadleaf weeds.

Keep the grass mowed at 2 to 2½ inches tall, and mow often enough to remove only an inch or so at each mowing.

If the weather turns dry, you have the option of allowing the grass to go dormant or watering. If you opt to water, wait until the grass wilts; then, apply 1 inch of water early in the day. Put a tin can under the sprinkler so you know when you have an inch of water.

Do not water again until the grass wilts. Shallow watering or watering every night is disastrous to a lawn because it kills the deep roots and stimulates shallow rooting.

If you have a severe thatch problem or shallow rooting, diseases will sooner or later attack your grass. Regular core aerification and dethatching as often as you can afford it will eventually break down the barrier between the thatch and soil beneath, enabling the grass to root deep into the soil.

Chemical control of ring and patch diseases has met with little success. Where the diseases have become so severe that the lawn is essentially destroyed, the only remedy may be to remove the entire lawn, prepare a seedbed, and re-seed.

For more lawn care tips, download the Spring Lawn Care Guide at http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/regions/hort.

- from The Master Gardener Newsletter

The peachtree borer is a common and often destructive tree fruit pest found where stone fruits such as peaches, nectarines, plums, cherry, and apricot are grown.

There are actually two species of peachtree borers, one known as the "lesser peachtree borer" and the other known simply as the "peachtree borer." These two species have slightly different life cycles and require different control approaches.

Damage by the lesser peachtree borer is caused by tunneling larvae feeding in the main limbs and upper trunk. It is mainly a problem in older trees. In contrast, the peachtree borer targets egg laying at the base of the tree—with larvae entry, feeding, and exit wounds located at the soil line of the trunk or just below ground. The peachtree borer prefers younger trees.

With both species, injury symptoms include quantities of gum or sap oozing from the bark wounds. The larvae feed inside the wood through the summer and fall, over-winter inside of the wood as larvae orpupae, and emerge as adults the next season to mate and repeat the cycle.

Understanding adult emergence timing and subsequent timing for egg laying is important for control.

The lesser peachtree borer adults begin to emerge in mid- to late May, with several generations occurring through the season,

which makes season-long control necessary. The peachtree borer only has one generation and will begin emerging in early July.

Depending on over-winter development, initial emergence of the wasp-like adult moths for both species can be variable, and usually not all at once. Mating, egg laying, and new larval infestation can occur within two weeks after emergence. Protective sprays should be applied to limbs and trunks (not leaves) prior to larval tunneling.

If you regularly spray your trees with a combination insecticide/fungicide fruit tree spray mix, these cover sprays will provide some protection from borers, especially if trunks and limbs are covered along with fruit and leaves.

However, separate, directed limb and trunk sprays may be necessary. For lesser peachtree borer, begin supplemental sprays in late May to early June, and repeat sprays at 3- to 4-week intervals through early September. Sevin^TM, mixed at a strong rate of 3 tablespoons per gallon water, should be sprayed on the trunk and scaffold (main) limbs. If you are targeting the peachtree borer (for example protecting young trees), a trunk spray in late July, and again at the end of August, should be sufficient.

Without taking control measures, peaches, plums, cherries, and nectarines can be significantly weakened and even killed by these two types of peachtree borers.

More information about tree fruit pest and disease control is available in the U of I Home Yard and

Garden Pest Guide, available through your local Extension office or online at PubsPlus,

https://pubsplus.uiuc.edu.

- from The Master Gardener Newsletter

If you haven't yet visited the SI Gardening website, take a few minutes to browse at http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/regions/hort. This site contains printable fact sheets on all kinds of topics—from growing bulbs to lawn care to growing pecans. The site also contains information for commercial fruit and vegetable growers, as well as fact sheets on common insect

problems in and around the home. You'll find a link to The Green Thumb newsletter, you can subscribe to the weekly SI Garden Column, and you can check out area gardening events in the News and Tips section.

If you don't have internet access, your local U of I Extension office can print any of the fact sheets for you.

- from The Master Gardener Newsletter

Fire blight, caused by the bacterium Erwinia amylovora, is a common and potentially serious plant

disease, specific to the family Rosaceae. It strikes apple and pear trees but can also affect other rose family members such as spirea, mountain ash, raspberries and blackberries, cinquefoil, quince, hawthorn, and cotoneaster.

The disease is also referred to as blossom blight, shoot blight, twig blight, spur blight, fruit blight, or rootstock blight—depending on the plant part that is infected.

Fire blight gets its name because infected trees appear as if they have been scorched with fire. Shoots

infected with fire blight can be identified by the characteristic "shepherd's hook" on the tip. Death can result if the infection is severe, especially on younger trees and trees grown on fire blight susceptible rootstocks. In most cases, fire blight will not kill an apple or pear tree, but trees can become unsightly and yields can be reduced.

Three conditions are necessary for the development of fire blight—the presence of the pathogen, moist conditions, and a high temperature. The fire blight bacteria over winters in cankers formed from the previous year and resumes growth in the spring when favorable conditions are reached. Fire blight enters the plant tissue through natural openings and wounds created by insects, storm damage, and mechanical injury. Favorable conditions include rain, heavy dews, or high humidity in combination with an optimum temperature range of 65^o to 86^oF. Without favorable conditions,infection does not proceed.

Highly Susceptible

Apple – Braeburn, Cortland, Fuji, Gala, Jonathon, Lodi, Rome Beauty, Winter Banana

Pear – Anjou, Bartlett, Bosc, Red Bartlett, Starkrimson

Moderately Susceptible

Apple—Empire, Golden Delicious, Granny Smith, Jerseymac, Jonafree, Jonagold, Jonamac, McIntosh, Mutsu, Spartan, Stayman

Pear—Maxine, Seckel

Moderately Resistant to Resistant

Apple—Red Delicious, Liberty,

Enterprise, Prima, Priscilla, Pristine, Redfree, Winesap, William's Pride

Pear—Moonglow, Starkling Delicious

If a tree develops fire blight, what should be done? Fire blight can be unsightly if it's a heavy infection, and many growers feel the need to remove the infected plant parts. But, it is best to delay the removal of infected shoots until the dormant season to avoid spreading the infection to healthy shoots. In addition, summer pruning promotes new growth, which is more susceptible to fire blight. If pruning cannot be avoided, wait for dry weather when conditions are less conducive to infection spread. Always make the pruning cuts at least 6 inches below the last point of visible infection. Sterilize the pruning shears between each cut by dipping them in 1 part liquid bleach to 4 parts water.

Avoid over-fertilization of apple and pears because this practice also promotes lush green growth, which is highly susceptible to fire blight. Pears are generally more susceptible to fire blight than apples, and for this reason, fertilization is generally not recommended unless the tree demonstrates a nutritional need through reduced growth or yield.

Another line of defense against fire blight is chemical control. One option is Bordeaux mixture applied during the dormant stage to further reduce the inoculum level. Another option is the use of agricultural streptomycin labeled for apples and pears, like Ferti•lome Fire Blight Spray. Agricultural streptomycin can be applied during critical periods occurring between bloom and petal fall.

- from The Master Gardener Newsletter

Often known as "pie plant", rhubarb (Rheum spp.) is a hardy perennial that thrives in the fertile, well-drained soils of the Midwest. Rhubarb is grown for its thick leaf stalks or petioles, and several varieties are available. Some still have the greenish stalk common to the old-fashioned rhubarb, but several of the more recent introductions have quite red stalks. A deep red petiole tends to be more popular with gardeners, but green varieties tend to be more productive. Some people assume that red-petiole rhubarb is sweeter than the green-petiole types, but petiole color does not determine sweetness. Some varieties commonly available are 'Canada Red,' 'Green Victoria,' and 'MacDonald.'

Planting crowns should be done in the early spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Planting seed is generally not recommended because of the time to establishment and the strong possibility that the seedlings would not be true to type. Select a sunny location that is appropriate for a long-term planting. The soil should be weed free and worked to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Set rows 5 to 6 feet apart, and in the rows, plant 3 feet apart. Crowns should be shallowly planted, no more than 2 inches below the surface. If rainfall is less than an inch per week, water the plants. This is especially critical in the spring when the crowns are getting established. Because rhubarb is a cool-season plant, growth is best with temperatures below 90^oF. Temperatures above 90 degrees result in suppressed growth and plants may even appear dormant during periods of extreme heat. Following a season of growth, the rhubarb crowns become dormant, and they require temperatures below 40 degrees to break dormancy the following spring.

The leafstalks for harvesting are in their prime in the early spring. Do not harvest the first season of growth. During the second season, harvest only a maximum of four weeks, and seasons thereafter, harvest can continue for eight to 10 weeks. For any harvest, never remove more than ½ of the developed stalks from any plant at any one time. This will allow the plant to build up reserves for the next cutting.

Some caution needs to be taken when harvesting and preparing rhubarb. Cut the leaves from the stems and leave them in the garden or add them to your compost pile. Under no circumstance should they be eaten because they contain oxalic acid, a poison. Don't harvest wilted or limp stalks from frostbitten plants. Severe cold injury may cause oxalic acid crystals in the leaves to migrate to the stalks, increasing the likelihood of poisoning problems. If in doubt after a frost, compost frostbitten stalks and wait to harvest after new stalks have been produced.

To harvest, firmly grasp the stalk and pull it from the base of the plant with a slight twist. Some people like to cut the stalks close to the ground with a sharp knife to avoid injury to the crown; but, this is not the preferred method because the petiole base left behind can decay and create a site for fungal invasion.

Occasionally, the plants will send up seedstalks during the growing season; these seedstalks should be removed as soon as they form so that the plant is not expending unnecessary energy.

After plants die down in the fall, heavily mulch them with compost, being careful not to cover the crowns. After several years, rhubarb will begin to crowd itself out, and spring is the best time to renew the bed. Lift the oldest plants first and remove any dead or damaged portions. Cut the crown into sections, each with a healthy piece of root and at least one good bud. Plant these pieces back in a prepared bed.

- Elizabeth Wahle, horticulture specialist

If you long for home-grown vegetables but don't have a lot of space, you can integrate vegetables into your landscape.

The first thing you have to change is the mindset that vegetables do best when planted in nice straight rows or in a large plot. Some, like sweet corn and green beans, do. But, it's not true for all of them.

Many vegetables can be tucked in among shrubs and flowers. Patches of lettuce and spinach need only a square foot here and there. If planted early in the spring, the space can be used for flowers or other vegetables later in the season. Since most leafy vegetables are in for only eight to 10 weeks, you can plant some late-season annual flowers to fill in the same space.

Peppers also work well interspaced among flowers. The reds, oranges, and purples of the fruit will add a little zip to the landscape. The newer one- to two-person eggplants also do well, producing vivid purple or white fruit to contrast or complement surrounding flowers and foliage.

Many of the root crops, from radishes to carrots to beets to parsnips, fit in well. You'll need a little more patience when planting to make sure the seedlings are properly spaced. Place two seeds in each location, thinning down to one plant if both germinate. Remember not to deeply hoe or cultivate around the plants.

Many of the root crops have interesting foliage, including the fern-like carrots and the large reddish-green beets.

Tomatoes also work well tucked in among other plants. You may need to stake or cage the plants, but that isn't much of a problem if done when the tomatoes are small. Beyond the red slicing types, consider some of the pink, orange, and yellow

cultivars as well as plum and cherry types. Because cultivars with a determinant growth habit will not grow out of bounds and need minimal support/staking, they are preferred over the indeterminate types.

'Bright Lights' Swiss chard is a vegetable with a multitude of various colored stems. This plant can add a certain pizzazz even if you don't harvest the leaves.

Most gardeners grow the bush snap beans, but pole beans probably fit better in a landscape border because they'll climb up above the other plants, essentially sharing the same space but at different levels.

Broccoli planted in early spring produces heads by mid-summer; then, you can pull up the plants and replant with another vegetable. Broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower can also be planted in late August for a fall crop, replacing vegetables or flowers that are past their prime.

Vining crops like cucumbers and cantaloupes can be trained on fences, supported by old nylon pantyhose or foam-covered twist ties. Plant the seeds in hills close to the base of the fence and allow the plants to ramble up. The weight of some plants may be too much for some old fences, so make sure the fence is secure.

For years, herbs have been mingled with flowers. Dill, fennel, sage, rosemary, and basil are ideal for flower gardens.

When planting herbs and vegetables, read the seed packet or transplant tag so that you know how much room the plant needs to properly grow. Don't fudge; if cabbages need 18 inches by 18 inches, don't try to grow them in a square foot.

Look for seeds or transplants that are described as compact or smaller than normal. And when possible, select cultivars that are resistant to pests and diseases.

Regardless of where and how vegetables are planted in your yard, monitor for pests and use appropriate control measures as if the plants were in standard garden rows.

- David Robson, horticulture educator

Q. When should bulbs that bloom in the spring be fertilized and cut back?

A. Spring bulbs respond well to annual fertilization. A granular fertilizer can be used when the foliage begins to emerge early in the spring. Use a "bulb" fertilizer that contains moderate amounts of nitrogen and potash (such as 10 to 15 percent each), and low levels of phosphorous (5 percent). Spread the fertilizer around the plants and, if possible, lightly scratch it into the soil surface; follow with watering.

A general guideline is about 1 pound of fertilizer per 100 square feet of bed area. After the blooms have faded, follow with a liquid soluble fertilizer at one-half the recommended mix rate, and apply one or two times before the foliage begins to yellow.

When planting new spring bulbs or transplanting existing bulbs in the fall, work in bone meal or other source of slow-release phosphorous. Mix it 6 to 10 inches deep below the planting level of the bulb, where the roots can utilize it.

Do not clip or mow bulb foliage until after it turns yellow and dies down naturally. Depending on species, this can be a month or more after bloom. The foliage needs adequate sunlight to ensure proper development of next year's flowers. If

foliage is mowed or clipped too early, bulb and blooms will decline over time, and may die out. Some bulb species readily develop a seed head at the base of the flower if the bulb is pollinated. Clipping off the developing seeds and seed stalks will divert more energy to growth and formation of new bulblets and flowers for next year.

After the foliage dies down in late spring or early summer, the bulb goes dormant through the summer months. With fall rains, the bulb comes out of summer dormancy and roots begin to grow again to provide nutrients and moisture to the bulb.

If you want to transplant and move your bulbs to new locations, do so after they enter dormancy.

Tulips should be dug after the foliage dies in the late spring and replanted in the fall. The original tulip bulb dies, so there is a need to sort and replant only the largest bulblets that have formed.

Daffodil and crocus should be dug and replanted about every five years to prevent over-crowding. The first sign of over-crowding of daffodils will be a decrease in the flower size. When this occurs, dig after the foliage dies down in early summer and immediately replant the bulbs.

For more information, visit the SI Gardening website at http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/regions/hort

- Tony Bratsch, horticulture educator

Forsythia is one of our early blooming plants that provides a somewhat wild, informal look in the landscape. It also offers a refuge to birds during the winter. And, during the cold winter months, you can take cuttings from the shrub and force them to bloom indoors, giving you an early touch of spring.

This plant grows best in full sunlight but will tolerate light shade. It also prefers a well-drained site.

Forsythia is relatively free of insect and disease problems. Starting your own plant is quite easy as well. Cut off a 6- to 12-inch piece of new growth and place it in water. After roots start to grow, transplant the cutting in its place and keep it watered. Forsythia is one plant that looks great naturally. If pruning is needed, it is usually done after spring bloom because flowers are on older stems. By waiting until the flowers fall, new stem growth is easier to identify and leave for next year's bloom.

Prune older limbs to the ground and head back other stems to hold the plant to the size desired.

The great thing about forsythia is that it requires little attention if planted in an out-of-the way location. Although some gardeners shun its short floral display, it has merit as an early spring floral delight.

- Ed Billingsley, guest columnist