Houseplants don't thrive during the winter months, yet we often try to "push" our plants to grow. Although indoor plants seldom drop all of their leaves, these plants go through a dormant period just like trees and shrubs. During this dormant period, which usually corresponds with less rain and light, new leaves and shoots aren't produced. This natural resting state is important for a plant to build up food reserves and compensate for unfavorable environmental conditions.

To help indoor plants stay healthy during the winter, follow these general care guidelines:

· Hot air blowing on a plant from a heat register may encourage weak, spindly growth. Avoid placing plants in a direct line with hot air.

· Likewise, avoid drafts. Cold air can damage leaves and buds. Plants should be at least 6 inches from a window. Keep plants away from frequently opened outside doors.

· Don't force houseplants into growth by applying fertilizers. As a rule of thumb, avoid using fertilizers between October and April.

· On the other hand, plants need as much light as possible during the winter months. A typical double-pane window can reduce potential light by 80 percent. Add that to the fact that light intensity is cut by roughly 50 percent during the winter and you can see why some plants look yellowed. South and west exposures provide the most light. Plants that typically thrive during the spring and summer in a north or east window may need to be moved to a brighter window. Supplemental light can also be added by placing the plant under a lamp. The top leaves of a houseplant should be between 10 and 24 inches under a fluorescent light, and 15 and 30 inches for a typical incandescent bulb. If you place the plants closer to the light than the recommended distance, the leaves might burn.

· Water only when needed. Over-watering during the winter kills most plants. Allow all but the most sensitive plants to wilt slightly before watering. Plants can appear wilted for several days before passing the point of no return. It's usually impossible to establish a schedule for watering during the winter. Outside and indoor temperatures have an effect. Check plants daily or weekly for watering needs.

· Increasing the humidity level is by far the most helpful. Group plants together or purchase a cold-water humidifier or vaporizer. Plants can also be set on trays filled with pebbles and water. The pebbles prevent the plants from sitting directly in water. As the water evaporates, it creates a "mini" greenhouse around the plants. Set plants in the most humid rooms of the house—the kitchen, bathroom, and laundry room. Misting increases the humidity around a plant for roughly five seconds. It might make you feel better, but it does little for the plant.

Worm composting is an easy way to turn your kitchen scraps into compost for both indoor and outdoor plants. And, vermiculture is a great way to teach kids about recycling and the environment.

All you need to get started is a plastic bin, a drill, newspaper, soil, worms, and vegetable or fruit peelings.

For first-time worm composters, 10-gallon plastic bins work well. The bin needs to be solid, not clear, because worms don't like the light. At a minimum, the bin should be 10 to 16 inches deep. Worms need air to survive so drill holes no larger than 1/4 inch or smaller into the sides and the lid of the bin.

Newspaper is readily available and easy to prepare as bedding for the worms. Tear newspaper into 1-inch-wide strips and pack it down into the bin to within a couple of inches of the top. The tearing process is a great time-consuming activity for kids. You can also run the newspaper through a shredder.

Add water to the newspaper and mix well until the paper is as wet as a wrung-out sponge. If it's too wet, just add more paper. Add a handful of soil to the moistened bedding. The gritty soil will help the worms digest and grind their food in their gizzards.

Next, add the worms. Red worms or "red wrigglers" work best in a bin. These are not the large earthworms found in your backyard after a heavy rain.

Earthworms like temperatures around 50 degrees F and like to burrow deep into the soil. They are not suited to the 70-degree temperatures in your home and the confined space of a worm bin.

Red wrigglers, on the other hand, are surface feeders and thrive in room temperatures. You can buy red wrigglers at local bait shops or numerous places online.

It takes about a pound of worms—1,000 worms—to start a bin. A pound of worms will cost from $17 to $20.

Add the worms to the bedding; they will immediately make a beeline under the bedding because they are sensitive to light.

Worms will eat potato, carrot, apple, banana peelings, orange and grapefruit rinds, oatmeal, coffee grounds with the filter, tea bags, and crushed eggshells. Chopping or grinding the kitchen scraps in a blender will make it easier for the worms to eat the scraps.

You can keep a supply of food for the worms in a plastic container in the refrigerator.

Do not feed them any meat, dairy products, or oily foods.

It is important to bury the scraps in the bedding. Leaving the food on top of the bedding may attract unwanted pests like fruit flies.

After feeding the worms, leave them alone for a couple of weeks to let them get used to their new environment. Feed them every couple of weeks. Add more bedding every three to four weeks.

In two to three months, you should have a bin of worm compost that is ready to harvest.

When harvesting the compost, you have a couple of options. With the "divide and sort" method, you stop feeding the worms for two weeks. After two weeks, move the old bedding to one side of the bin. Add fresh bedding with food. The worms will migrate into the fresh bedding, allowing you to harvest the finished vermicompost.

Another option is "live and let die." After three months, just stop feeding the worms. The worms will die, leaving behind the finished worm compost.

The worm compost can be used as an amendment to potting soil for houseplants or as an organic addition to your garden soil.

One of the tasks that can get us outdoors this winter to work off holiday calories is pruning. Many trees and shrubs are best pruned during the dormant season.

However, depending on species, best timing can range from early winter to spring and into the early summer months.

While you can prune at any time through the year, the outcome and desired results may be less than favorable. For example, pruning spring-flowering shrubs in the winter will remove flower buds and decrease bloom.

When pruning, consider the type of plant and its growth response. Every species will respond to a pruning cut differently, especially in the location, number and rate of return bud, and shoot growth. When possible, "thinning" cuts should be made back to point of attachment, rather than abrupt stubbing or "heading" of branches, which stimulates excessive bud break. Also, consider plant health and condition, and the potential for creating disease and insect problems. Always focus on the desired goals and results, which can be as simple as removing a low-hanging branch for clearance, or thinning old branches from flowering shrubs, such as lilac, to stimulate new shoots.

The dormant season, from early winter to early spring, is the best time for pruning many deciduous species because the leaves are gone and you can see the structure of the plant. With a clear view, you can make better decisions on which branches and limbs to remove.

Trees that "bleed" sap when cut include elm, maple, and birch. Oozing sap can be detrimental, attracting insects and affecting appearance, and it can delay healing of pruning wounds. These species should always be pruned in early winter to avoid excessive sap loss.

For flowering shrubs, the ideal time to prune is after flowering, which usually is late spring to early summer, depending on species. If the shrub blooms later in the year on current season's growth, such as a butterfly bush, then late winter to early spring pruning is recommended. Pruning a marginally hardy shrub like a butterfly bush or some roses in the late fall to early winter can increase winter injury potential.

To enhance density and form of needled evergreens such as pine or spruce, tip-shear them in the early summer (May to June) after the new extension (candle) growth has stopped, but before it fully hardens. Large limbs and branches of these species can be pruned any time during the winter.

To increase density of evergreen hedges such as yew, arborvitae, or juniper, shear in late spring to early June after new growth has fully developed. Avoid late fall or winter shearing because it may cause tip burning. More vigorous spreading yews can also be sheared in the early spring and touched up again in September.

If not used in a hedge, holly and other broadleaf evergreens should only be lightly trimmed in the early spring to maintain shape and to preserve flowers and fruit. As a formal hedge, shear boxwood and holly in late June and then do a light touch-up in early September. Holly fruit may be reduced by harsh shearing.

The timing of pruning can affect the onset and spread of certain diseases. Dutch elm disease, oak wilt, and fireblight are spread and/or initiated by pruning. When pruned in the summer, fresh wounds can attract the beetles that spread Dutch elm and oak wilt diseases. Though Dutch elm has been a problem for many years, oak wilt disease is becoming more prevalent, affecting many species of oak in Illinois. Therefore, all oak and elm species should be pruned in the winter when the insects are not present. Avoid even light trimming in the summer season.

Fireblight, a bacterial disease spread by wind and moisture, damages shoots and branches in susceptible ornamentals such as ornamental pears and crabapples. Prune these trees during dry weather. Trim blighted shoots at least 8 to12 inches below the dead tissue, taking care to sterilize pruning tools with each cut to avoid spreading the disease to the lower clean wood.

The U of I Extension publication Pruning and Care of Trees and Shrubs (#U5040) is an excellent reference and can be ordered from your local Extension office.

Tree fruits and vegetables will be the focus of two training schools this winter. These schools are excellent opportunities to further your knowledge of fruit and vegetable production.

The Commercial Tree Fruit School focuses on apple and peach production. The school is offered at two locations—on February 3 at the Mt. Vernon Holiday Inn, and on February 4 at the First Presbyterian Church Hall in Hardin. Registration starts at 8 a.m. and the program runs from 8:20 to 3 p.m.

Peach-related topics include brown rot and other diseases; insect management, with a focus on OFM and borers; and size control using rootstocks.

Apple topics include pruning and training apple trees; super-high density apple orchards; San Jose scale and woolly apple aphid management; apple diseases of 2008; and chemical thinners for apples.

For the Mt. Vernon school, advance registration by January 30 is $20 per farm, with lunch on your own. Late and at-door registration is $30. For the Hardin school, registration by January 30 is $20 per person, which includes an on-site lunch. Late and at-door registration is $30.

The Commercial Vegetable School is set for February 11 at the Mt. Vernon Holiday Inn.

Registration starts at 8 a.m. , and the program runs from 8:40 to 4:05 p.m.

Topics include new sweet corns, tomato bacterial diseases, mite management in vegetable crops, specialty cucurbit diseases, cucurbits for fall markets, strategies for direct marketing, tomato quirks, and low-tech strategies to reduce post harvest losses.

Registration by February 6 is $30 per farm. Late and at-door registration is $40.

For details about either of these schools, visit SI Gardening at http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/regions/hort and click the Commercial Growers section.

January is here, that time of year when everything takes on a gray hue. Your clothes seem dull, your home lacks its usual luster, and your cat seems a bit ashen. When will spring get here?

If the winter blues are setting in, maybe you need a splash of color from a bright, colorful, blooming plant. Stop by the local greenhouse to see what's in stock. You will be surprised at the selection and colors available. Cyclamens, chrysanthemums, African violets, gloxinia, primrose, and cineraria are just a few of the choices.

A flowering plant can psychologically help us through the dull, gray months of February and March. And many small blooming plants are inexpensive, often less than $10.

When buying blooming potted plants, follow these suggestions from the Greenhouse Growers Association.

n Avoid plants that are still wrapped. Wrapping can shorten the plant's life span. Even paper wraps, if left on too long, can cause damage. Poinsettias, spring bulbs, roses and Rieger begonias are good examples of plants that deteriorate quickly.

n Be sure the plant is in good condition. Avoid improperly cared for plants that have yellowing leaves. The soil media may not smell fresh, and the leaves and stems can appear droopy.

n Some people assume that if the plant contains tight buds rather than having open blooms, the plant will last longer. This is not true. For most blooming potted plants, it is essential that at least half the blooms be nearly fully opened; otherwise, when the plants are taken from the greenhouse and placed in lower light, the buds usually won't open. This is especially true for chrysanthemums. One exception is spring bulbs.

n Before leaving the store, be sure the plant is wrapped in either plastic or paper. This extra measure protects the plant from low temperatures and drafts, makes handling easier, and prevents the plant from becoming damaged. Also, avoid leaving the plant in the car to prevent it from freezing.

Once you get your bundle of color home, place it in a draft-free location away from high temperatures—NOT on top of your television set, which can be too warm when the TV is in use. Make sure the plant has proper drainage. If there is decorative foil, punch holes in the bottom so that the plant does not sit in ater. Check to see if the plant is dry and, if so, water at the soil level. Avoid getting water on the flowers and leaves. Toss excess water that drains into the saucer.

Use city or well water, not softened water. Some plants are sensitive to salts used in water softeners. If possible, let the water stand overnight before using. Misting is not necessary. Remove yellow leaves and faded flowers before they die.

Pruning on a frequent basis can promote a longer blooming period. For most blooming potted plants, fertilizing is not necessary while the plant is in bloom.

- Martha Smith, horticulture educator

The new seed catalogs are starting to arrive in the mail, and it is a good time to take stock of leftover seed before you place an order. Carry-over seed can and should be used before its viability declines, especially given the cost of buying new seed each year. As you go through older supplies, evaluate what crop seeds you have on hand, how much is left, and whether it is enough for your 2009 garden. Try to determine the age of seed by the packing dates on the package, and also consider conducting germination tests.

Keep in mind that seed is alive even while in its resting or dormant state. Viability of stored seed is affected by two main factors: seed moisture and storage temperature. These factors interact with natural seed longevity, which varies among species.

So when you evaluate aging seed stock, how and where you kept your seeds are important considerations, as well as knowing the natural seed life expectancy.

The combination of high seed moisture and either high or low storage temperature is especially detrimental to seed longevity. Low seed moisture means longer life, particularly when it is exposed to fluctuating temperatures. Silica gel and calcium chloride are good mediums to dry seed and control humidity in a damp storage environment. Just make sure the seed does not come into direct seed contact with these materials.

Cool, consistent basement or refrigerator storage is preferable to attic or outdoor garden shed storage. Periods of high temperature exposure, such as a seed packet left in direct sun or in a hot shed, can significantly reduce seed longevity or kill it outright. For many species, sub-freezing temperatures can be detrimental. Ideal seed storage temperatures are between 40 to 50 degrees F, with desirable seed moisture for most crops around 10 to 12 percent. Lower moisture of 5 to 6 percent is better for long-term storage in airtight containers, with the exception of okra and bean seed; these two can develop hard seed coats and not germinate well if kept below 10 percent moisture.

Relative life expectancy under favorable storage conditions for certain crop groups is as follows: legumes (beans) 3 to 4 years; crucifers (broccoli, cauliflower) 4 to 5 years; corn 2 to 3 years; lettuce, endive and chicory 4 to 5 years; spinach, beets, carrots and chard 2 to 3 years; cucurbits (melons, squash) 4 to 5 years; tomatoes 4 years; peppers 2 years; onion, parsley, parsnip and salsify 1 year. As any seed gets older, the percent germination declines at varying rates depending on conditions and species.

Seed packages state percent germination on the package as well as the year that the lot was packed. New seed usually tests between 85 to 99 percent germination. Even under ideal storage conditions, germination of any seed lot declines with time, as well as the vigor and rate of germination, so it is best to test percent seed viability if you have doubts. This can easily be done by wrapping some seeds in a wet paper towel, keeping them moist and warm (65 to 70 F) over a period of three to seven days and counting germinated seeds. If the percentage is low or germination is slow or variable, it is best to discard the lot. A weakened seed, even though it germinates, makes for a weak seedling and poor early growth.

Properly storing and using older seed is a great way to save on garden seed costs, though it should always be evaluated before planting. A poor stand in the garden results in lost growing time if it needs replanting, and often a planting delay beyond the ideal window of time. For more information, pick up the book, Vegetable Gardening in the Midwest, available from your local U of I Extension office or visit the Watch Your Garden Grow website at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/veggies/.

- Tony Bratsch, horticulture educator

Q. I think my plants have mealybugs. How can I get rid of the pests?

A. White, cottony masses about 1/8 inch in diameter on the stems and leaves of your houseplants may be an indication of an infestation of mealybugs.

Mealybugs suck the sap out of the plant. Much of the sap is not used by the insect but is excreted as a syrupy solution that makes lower leaves and other surfaces under the plant glossy and sticky. A black mold, called sooty mold, may eventually grow on this syrupy material, especially if the plant is in a high-humidity area.

Plants commonly attacked by mealybugs include African violets, sinnigias and other gesneriads, cacti, jade plant and other succulents, avocado, citrus, coleus, palms, and schefflera. Infested plants grow slowly, if at all, and frequently have distorted leaves that drop from the plant. Heavy infestations are often fatal. To prevent healthy plants from a similar fate, separate them from the infested plants.

You can treat small plants with light infestations by dabbing each mealybug with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Be sure to touch only the insect. Alcohol on leaf tissue will usually cause drying, often resulting in a dead spot on the leaf.

Treatments should be repeated weekly for about two months. Don't use too much alcohol and avoid dabbing the growing point.

Spraying infested plants with insecticidal soap or an insecticide is also effective. Contact your local U of I Extension office for chemical recommendations. Treat the plants every 10 days to two weeks for two to three months. Large masses of mealybugs at junctures of the leaf and stem and at other locations should be physically removed since young mealybugs within these masses will be protected from the insecticide.

Plants such as cacti and other succulents growing in loose soil should also be checked for mealybugs on the roots and underground stems.

Treat root infestations every two weeks for two months. Water the plant to thoroughly moisten the soil. Apply an insecticide, diluted with water as directed on the label, to the soil until the solution runs out of the bottom drainage holes. After two months, check the roots for any infestation and repot.

As with any insecticide, read and follow all label directions.

- Answer provided by David Robson, U of I Extension horticulture educator

This time of year brings attention to the evergreen holly plant. If you don't have holly in your yard, you may find that it makes a nice addition to the landscape.

Holly plants prefer a well-drained site. The site should also be in full sun for at least six hours a day. Hollies grow nearly 1 foot a year if planted in a good location. Hollies are not as cold hardy as many think, so pick varieties that will survive our winters.

These plants are dioecious, meaning they have the male and female reproductive structures on separate plants. So to produce red berries, both a male and female plant are required. Some nurseries are now planting a male and female in the same pot. That way, the pollinator is already there with the female when they are planted.

If you are interested in shrubs, consider the 'China Girl' and 'China Boy' cultivars. The female 'China Girl' will have the red berries and the male 'China Boy' will have only lush foliage. It is best to have at least three to five plants if you want branches for holiday decorating.

If you want a tree, consider an American holly. It spreads 8 to 15 feet and can grow nearly 30 feet tall. Many homeowners keep the tree pruned in a compact form, but it can be allowed to grow freely.

Holly is a nice glossy broadleaf evergreen that provides green leaves of shiny luster all year long. A word of caution—remember that holly berries are considered poisonous, so keep small children and pets away from them.

- Ed Billingsley, guest columnist

University of Illinois Extension

Master Gardener Meeting

Effingham County

Tuesday, January 13^th, 2009

The meeting was called to order by the President, Normalie Strickland at 6:40 P.M. Present at the meeting were Lyetta Awalt, Dorothy Niebrugge, Leslie Niebrugge, Betty Boos, Purnima Shah, Karen Hakman, Lyn Pankonen, Brenda Roedl, Normalie, and Rita Kemme.

Minutes

Minutes of the October 28^th, 2008 meeting were read as the December meeting was not a formal one. Karen moved to approve and Purnima seconded and the motion carried.

Financial

Not available.

Old Business

None to report.

Brenda's Notes

The State MG Conference: is slated for Sept. 10^th, 11^th, & 12^th, 2009 in Effingham at the Keller Convention Center. Sept. 10^th will be the tours. Sept. 11^th and 12^th will be speakers and vendors at the convention center. Hours to be decided. We will set up some of the tours along with Coles Co. and decide on a theme. Several were discussed and "Nurture Nature, Nurture You", spoken by Betty was the one liked by the group and will be sent in. A possible logo would be hands holding a sapling tree, or hands with a child. There would be "Hands On" classes such as flower arranging, dream pillows, gourd painting, possibly with Carol Bloemer. The keynote speaker is Holly Shinzu talking about Sustainable Vegetable Gardening. Other speakers could include, Pond's & Water Gardening, Seed Savers, Proven Winners, Victory Gardens, Soil testing & Resources, Freezing, Drying and Preserving with Carol Schlitt, Mike Brunk, arborist from Champaign, Oriental Grasses, Natives, and Square Foot Gardening.

Cross: In this month's "Garden Gate" magazine there is a picture of a possible idea for the biblical garden. It was moved by Purnima and seconded by Rita that we purchase the bound issues of the last two years of Garden Gate. Many helpful pictures and articles are contained in the pages.

New Business

After discussion it was moved by Karen and seconded by Lyetta that we keep the same slate of officers. They are Normalie Strickland, President, Purnima Shah, Vice President, Leslie Niebrugge, Treasurer, and Rita Kemme, Secretary. Motion carried.

Next Meeting

The next meeting will be held on February 10^th, 2009 at 6:30 P.M. This meeting was adjourned at 9 P.M.

Submitted by: Rita Kemme, secretary.

- Rita Kemme