Gardeners often include plants that create habitats to attract birds and animals to their landscape. But sometimes, the result is unwanted wildlife around, or even in, a home. A few preventative measures will decrease the chances of wildlife becoming a nuisance.

To keep squirrels and raccoons from taking over bird feeders, use a gravity-operated treadle so that only birds can access feed. Also, do not allow feed to accumulate underneath the feeder. If pets are fed outdoors, move their feeders indoors at night.

Trees that have branches extending over the roof of a house should be trimmed. An alternative to this is to place a 3-foot-wide band of sheet metal around the trunk of the tree, at least 6 feet off the ground.

Installing a chimney cap will help prevent direct entry into a house. To find out if animals are already in the chimney or attic, sprinkle flour or talcum powder around the top of the chimney and watch for tracks for several days. If animals are present, they obviously will need to be removed before the cap can be installed. Contact the Illinois Department of Natural Resources to get a listing of licensed nuisance wildlife control contractors, or call your local city or county government offices to find out if they have animal control services.

Firewood should be stacked away from the house, at least 2 feet above ground. This will not only lessen the chances of wildlife making a home in the wood, but it will also decrease the chances of termites making a home in your house.

Openings around the foundation should be sealed. Cover openings with wire mesh, sheet metal, or concrete. If you are concerned about small animals that may dig underneath a foundation, place wire mesh at least 6 inches below ground to discourage digging.

Keep trash containers tightly closed. If needed, secure the lids with elastic cords. Do not add meat or grease to compost piles.

Having animals and birds around the home can be enjoyable. And, enhancing an area for certain types of wildlife can be done without attracting wildlife you do not want. For more information, visit U of I Extension's Living with Wildlife website at http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/wildlife/.

With the onset of fall weather, deciduous fruits and nuts have stopped actively growing and have begun to drop their leaves in preparation for a long winter rest.

This rest period, termed endodormancy, is necessary to winter survival for not only fruits and nuts, but for many trees and shrubs. Endodormancy is a type of dormancy where the buds are dormant because of an internal plant inhibitor system that prevents growth even under ideal external growing conditions. Once a plant has entered endodormancy, it will not grow again until it has received enough cold to overcome the dormancy.

However, the best temperature for chilling is not the extreme cold. Effective chilling temperatures to terminate dormancy are generally between 32 to 45^OF, and the approximate hours of chilling required to break dormancy vary according to species and cultivar.

For the most part, trees adapted to Illinois growing conditions rarely have difficulty attaining the proper chilling hours necessary to break endodormancy. When the chilling requirement has been met, rest (endodormancy) ends, and the plant is ready to grow, regardless of time of year.

The continued dormancy of the plant then depends on another form of dormancy called quiescence or ecodormancy. With this type of dormancy, buds are dormant as a result of external conditions unfavorable to growth—i.e. as long as the temperature is cold, the plant will not grow.

For this reason, late winter thaws and warm early spring weather in Illinois can be especially disastrous to fruit growers.

Early warm weather can overcome ecodormancy, allowing premature growth that can be damaged by subsequent cold and frosts. In general, the earlier a plant blooms, the more probable it is to suffer some amount of frost damage.

A general rating of sensitivity to winter cold and spring frost is as follows: apricots and sweet cherries>peaches, nectarines, and Japanese-type plums>pears and sour cherries>European-type plums and apples.

Luckily, fruit trees produce an overabundance of fruiting buds, which insures against quite a bit of frost damage and other mishaps. Apples, for example, have a fruit set range of 2 to 8 percent. That means 92 to 98 percent of the flowers are extra!

Plant Type Approximate Hours of Chilling

Required to Break Dormancy (<45⁰F)

__________________________________________________________________

apple 800 to 1750

raspberry 800 to 1700

pear and sour cherry 600 to 1500

currant and gooseberry 800 to 1650

walnut 400 to 1550

plum (Japanese) 600 to 1600

pecan 650 to 1550

cherry (sweet) 500 to 1450

blueberry (highbush) 800 to 1250

peach 375 to 1200

apricot 300 to 1000

blackberry 350 to 600

grape 50 to 400 (adequate growth)

400 to 1650 (better and faster growth)

strawberry 50 to 300

The spectacular amaryllis is a popular flowering bulb during the holiday season that can be enjoyed throughout the winter.

When buying this bulb, which is available from October to March, select a large, fat one at least 2½ inches in diameter. Bulbs need to be 2½ inches or more in diameter to flower properly. Make sure bulbs are free of any mold or rot. If the bulb feels soft and squishy, avoid it.

Amaryllis bulbs are potted so that one-half to two-thirds of the bulb is exposed above the pot rim. Use a pot that is no more than 2 to 3 inches bigger in diameter than the bulb. Leave ½ inch of the pot's rim above the soil line so you can water without spilling over the edge. Use a container that has one or more drain holes in the bottom. Bulbs will rot if sitting in water.

After potting, thoroughly soak the soil. When watering, make sure water comes out the bottom of the pot, but don't let the pot stand in this excess of water; pour the excess off.

Flower stalks with several blooms on each should develop in about four to eight weeks if a top-grade bulb was used.

Be careful not to injure the bulb when staking. Some people stake before planting. It is possible that one flower stalk will bloom out before another is formed.

It is important to keep the soil moist during the flowering period.

The cooler the night temperature, the stronger the stem. The stronger the stem, the less likely it will fall over, which means the longer the flowers will last. And, colors will remain more intense.

Getting the bulb to re-flower the next year isn't always simple, but it can be a rewarding challenge.

Cut off dead blooms immediately. However, don't remove leaves that begin to grow after the flower stalks have developed.

Keep the plant moist and in a humid location with bright light to full sun. Once the danger of frost is over, sink the pot with the bulb into soil outside in a sunny flowerbed and fertilize with a complete water-soluble fertilizer every four to six weeks.

In late summer, gradually reduce watering. When foliage has died down, trim it off. Bring pot inside and set in a place that is dry and cool, 40 to 50 degrees. Lay pots on their sides. The bulbs need a six- to eight-week rest period, which is critical to set the flower buds.

Repot every three years or so. Otherwise, do not disturb roots. Pots should be 2 to 3 inches larger than the bulb at planting, but pot-bound bulbs seem to flower nicely year after year with minimal care.

If you know of someone who enjoys gardening and would be a good Master Gardener, talk with that potential volunteer and explain how the program works. The 2009 training starts in January and runs through mid-April. In southern Illinois, training sessions will be held in the Edwardsville area and in Mt. Vernon. Encourage the gardener to contact the county Extension office for more specific information.

And remember, you can sit in on any sessions if you want a "refresher" on a particular topic. Just contact your county Extension office to let them know you will be attending.

As the holidays approach, you'll want to bookmark two handy websites.

The Poinsettia Pages at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/poinsettia includes a list of things to consider when buying this plant. With care, poinsettias should retain their beauty for weeks, and some varieties will stay attractive for months. Suggestions for achieving this outcome are listed on the site.

Christmas Trees & More is a one-stop source for a broad array of information, not only about Christmas trees but flowers and greenery, tree farms, and even recipes. The site includes a page that has recipes for Christmas tree cookies plus a holiday tree-shaped cheese ball and a Christmas tree cake.

Other pages have helpful hints to follow in picking out a tree, as well as types of Christmas trees. Information on caring for the tree in the home is also included.

Bookmark it at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/trees.

If you have a supply of wood ashes, you may be wondering about using it as a fertilizer or soil amendment. Wood ashes from your fireplace or wood stove can be beneficial to soils in home gardens and plant beds, but they must be properly applied. Wood ash contains potassium, which can be a good natural fertilizer.

Depending on species, wood ash can contain anywhere from 3 to 10 percent potassium, with hardwood ash containing more potassium than those from softwood.

However, when water comes in contact with wood ashes, it forms potassium hydroxide. This compound is highly alkaline and can rapidly raise soil pH. For this reason, wood ash should be viewed as a liming material and used carefully. Wood ashes should not be applied to high pH soils (> 6.5). Generally, for soils that can benefit from raising the soil pH, two to three times as much wood ash is needed to raise the soil pH compared to using limestone for the same purpose. Yet unlike limestone, which can take six months or more to take effect, wood ash has high water solubility and quickly changes the soil pH. It is a good policy to test your soil annually and make adjustments accordingly.

For soils that can benefit from raising the pH and additions of potassium, a few guidelines should be followed. Never use more than 20 pounds per 1000 square feet because toxicity problems could result from excessive usage. If the soil is in the proper pH range, this rate of application is considered appropriate for yearly treatments. After wood ash application, no additional lime should be needed. Apply ashes evenly and, if possible, mix them into the soil. Don't leave ashes in lumps or piles on the soil surface, which is equivalent to dumping large amounts of lime in a small area. Wood ashes should not come into contact with germinating seedlings or plant roots, which could result in root damage. Because ashes that settle on foliage can cause burning, thoroughly rinse plants after applying ashes. Don't use wood ashes around acid-loving plants such as azaleas, rhododendrons, and blueberries. Certain types of ash should be avoided. Avoid coal or charcoal ashes, as well as ashes from lead-painted or chemically-treated wood. Not only will nutrients remain in the ash, but the toxins will as well.

Use caution when applying wood ash to garden soils or plant beds. A measured application can be beneficial to increase the soil pH and add potassium, but an over-application can increase the likelihood of soil-related problems.

- Elizabeth Wahle, horticulture specialist

With proper care, your holiday poinsettia plant can bring pleasure for weeks or even months after the holiday season ends.

House temperatures, as well as light and humidity levels, affect the length of time the plant will remain attractive.

First brought to this country from Mexico in 1825, the poinsettia has long been the traditional Christmas potted plant. Red-flowered forms are the most popular, but white, pink, and variegated pink and white varieties are also grown.

Most of the newer poinsettia varieties retain their leaves and bracts remarkably well and may stay in good shape for several months. Yet, poinsettias are sensitive to drafts, too cool or too warm temperatures, sudden temperature changes, dry atmosphere, improper watering, and light.

These adverse conditions can cause loss of leaves and withering of bracts—those showy, colored structures commonly called 'flowers.' The true flowers are actually the yellow, nubby parts tucked down in the center of each whorl of bracts.

Poinsettias like a uniform room temperature between 60 and 68 degrees during the day and 10 degrees cooler at night. Humidity levels of 20 to 50 percent are ideal, though these may be difficult to achieve in the winter with the furnace drying out the air.

Group the plants together or place them on water-filled trays of pebbles to increase humidity levels. Temperatures above 75 degrees are detrimental, particularly in a dry atmosphere.

The plant should be placed near a bright window, just out of direct sunlight, or be provided with 14 hours of artificial light. If windows leak cold air, move the plants farther back.

It has been said that more plants are killed or damaged by 'drowning' than anything else. Plants need air as well as water, so avoid over-watering.

Learn to gauge the moisture content of the soil by its color and feel. As the surface dries, it gets light-colored. Pots also feel lighter. When soil is too dry, it becomes firm and sometimes cracked; when the soil is saturated, it feels slimy and sticky. With experience, you'll learn to find the ideal moisture condition.

Soil moisture should be maintained at moderate and uniform levels, neither soggy-wet nor bone-dry.

And, never let the pot stand in water for any extended period of time. If the plant came wrapped in foil or other watertight material, punch holes in the bottom or remove the wrap entirely so water won't be trapped inside.

Poinsettia plants can be cut back by half in mid-March to encourage new shoots.

Poinsettias can be placed outside in the spring after danger of frost has passed and brought indoors in mid-September to early October to force into bloom.

On the other hand, there is nothing wrong with relegating the poinsettia to the compost pile once all the leaves have fallen and you've enjoyed it to its fullest.

- David Robson, horticulture educator

Q. We have two Bradford trees. One is a regular Bradford, the other is a Cleveland. The Cleveland is still green with all its leaves. The regular turned red many months ago and now all the leaves are gone. This is the first time the leaves have been red. Both of these trees are about four years old. Is this normal for the red tree or has it been damaged by the unusual weather we have had this year? Almost all the Bradfords in our town still have full leaves. Thank you for your help.

A. Bradford and Cleveland are two different cultivars of ornamental pears; the latter is not a form of the Bradford. As a group, Bradford pears tend to have more of an upright, tight growth habit, making them extremely susceptible to breaking during wind and ice storms. For that reason, they are no longer one of the highly recommended trees. Cleveland pears tend to be more rounded with a greater angle between branches, which helps with wind and ice/snow loads.

Ornamental pears as a group are hard to figure out and are seldom consistent with bloom and fall coloration from year to year, unlike many of our trees. Growing location and weather environments can have a big impact on coloration, as well as the plant's genetics. Rain, temperature, and light all have an effect on fall coloration as well as leaf retention. Personally, I would want leaves to turn color and drop. Several years ago, a Thanksgiving ice storm did a number on the trees that still had leaves clinging to their branches.

Be thankful that the tree has lost its leaves and don't worry about it.

- Answers provided by David Robson, U of I Extension horticulture educator

Q. I have three fire bushes that have the beautiful red leaves in the fall. However, my bushes only get a few leaves at the top that turn red and most of them just fall. My question is: Am I trimming them at the wrong time of year or trimming them too much so they don't turn? I usually trim them during the summer months. I would appreciate your input.

A. The name "fire bush" is a bit of a problem. We're assuming that it is a burning bush or a corky-winged euonymus. The other option is a firethorn, which is a Pyracantha, a member of the rose family that produces orange berries and seldom a good fall foliage color.

Fall color with burning bushes (Euonymus) is dependent on weather, soil conditions, light, and new growth. Plants need full sun and less stress to produce good fall color. Pruning in the summer is usually not a recommended practice for most ornamentals because it puts undue stress on the plant, and it produces new growth that might not mature before winter, causing dieback.

The best time to prune Euonymus is when it is dormant, somewhere between December and mid-March. Prune limbs back to the crotches of other branches…just don't top or shear the plants. Tryto maintain a natural shape as much as possible.

If the plant is shaded, that might account for some lack of color; you'll have to decide if you can provide more light by thinning nearby plants to let in more light. However, that might not be realistic.
If you want consistent fall color, consider Itea or Sweetspire, a great semi-evergreen shrub, though it does sucker.

- Answers provided by David Robson, U of I Extension horticulture educator

There is something special about making Christmas decorations. You may have some handmade ornaments from children or grandchildren that bring back fond memories of holidays gone by.

A wreath is another decoration that adds a nice touch to your home. Telling friends and relatives that you designed the wreath on the door or hanging over the mantel begins instant conversation.

Making your own holiday wreath is not hard. You can start with a circular frame from a garden center or bend your own from some wire coat hangers.

Pack the wire frame with florist's moss and tie the moss in place with green string or small florist wire.

Now add foliage such as pine or holly in layers until the moss is covered.

Next, select pine cones, holly berries, or other decorations of choice to accent the foliage. The color accent can even include poinsettias or roses. You can attach the decorations with florist wire or hot glue. With heavier items such as pine cones, wire may be a better choice. The design can be completed with a ribbon.

Add a wire on the back to allow the wreath to be hung.

Let your creativity bloom by making your own Christmas wreath this holiday season!

- Ed Billingsley, guest columnist

No minutes taken at the Appreciation Dinner.

- Brenda Roedl