University of Illinois Extension

Master Gardener Meeting

Effingham County

Tuesday August 12^th, 2008

Meeting was called to order at 6:30 by the President, Normalie Strickland. Present at the meeting were Leslie Niebrugge, Purnima Shah, Normalie, Brenda Roedl, and Rita Kemme.

Minutes: Minutes of the July meeting were read. Leslie voted to approve and Purnima seconded. Motion approved.

Financial: $43.00 has been used from the Cross money for flowers planted, and $45.00 was used from the Master Gardener Monies for plants for Lakeland. This should leave $858.00 in the Cross fund and $2255.00 in the Master Gardener fund. Detailed financial at next meeting. Rita made motion to approve and Purnima seconded.

Office Help: Brenda is still in the process of moving. The room has been airing at every chance but the paint odor still exists.

Cross: Betty and Lynn have been to the Cross and pulled weeds.

Lakeland: no report.

Old Business: Brenda showed a gall on a Washington Hawthorn. The host trees are the

Hawthorn Quince and the Hawthorn Cedar. The two trees are not compatible, and one

will have to go. The same applies as the apple and the cedar with the cedar apple rust.

Another caller questioned about how to make her hydrangea pink instead of blue and the

general consensus was that lime should be applied and probably a pelleted lime would be

best.

New Business: A sheet is attached outlining the new fee for services that will apply

when folks come in or call for aid.

Garlic is available at Wal Mart for the Elephant variety. October is the time to plant any

of the garlics in the garden.

If you do not receive an email for the meeting, please give Rita your email address.

Meeting was adjourned at 8:55, with a move by Purnima and a second by Rita. Next

meeting will be September 9^th, 2008.

Submitted by: Rita Kemme, secretary.

- Rita Kemme

Mites are tiny animals closely related to spiders and ticks. Several species are serious pests of ornamental trees and shrubs, evergreens, flowers and vegetables.

Red spider mites are small and appear as small flecks running around on the underside of foliage or in fine silk webbing that is spun by the mites themselves. The key is a mottled or yellow speckling to the foliage of the plants.

Many evergreens including yews, junipers, boxwoods and spruces are susceptible to mite attacks. Roses are also prone to attacks as are apples and tomatoes.

Mites vary in color from almost no color to a pale yellow. Other coloration, such as orange, green or black, may be present depending on the host plant and mite species.

Eggs are laid on the foliage and hatch in 5 to 10 days, depending on the temperature. In colder weather, eggs take longer to hatch (10 to 12 days).

Contrary to popular belief, mites are more prolific and active during the cooler periods of the growing season such as late spring/early summer and late summer/early fall. However, because of the mite's feeding habits, mite damage is usually most prevalent and obvious during hot, dry periods.

Mite feeding damage first appears as finely mottled and then grayish, dry and brown. Later, a bronzing of the foliage will occur.Heavy mite infestations may result in premature leaf drop, and foliage and/or branches of evergreens may die. Remember that mite populations can build up rapidly, so early control is important.

To inspect for mites, simply hold a light-colored sheet of paper under the affected plant part and give a thorough shaking. If mites are present, they will drop to the paper and resemble small dots or flecks moving about. If mites are not present, then another problem may be responsible.

Applying miticides to affected plants can control mites. Unfortunately, most miticides are not available for use by homeowners; they must be applied by a certified commercial pesticide applicator. However, homeowners can temporarily control mites by using a heavy stream of water and literally washing the mites off the foliage. A light sprinkling of water will not be effective in dislodging the mites. Insecticidal soaps are also available and will suffocate the creatures. Carefully read and follow all label directions.

Blossom-end rot is a summer disease common in tomatoes and fruit vegetables such as peppers, eggplant, and sometimes melons and summer squash.

It is a non-pathogenic disease, a physiological disorder. It is a symptom of calcium deficiency in the fruit. Calcium deficiency may be caused by low soil calcium, low calcium in maturing fruit, or fluctuating soil moisture. It is usually severe following extremes in soil moisture conditions—either too dry or too wet.

Fruit need large amounts of calcium for normal cell growth. When a rapidly growing fruit is calcium-deficient, normal cell growth is interrupted, and the tissues start breaking down. This leaves a characteristic dry, sunken lesion at the blossom end of the fruit.

Blossom-end rot is induced when calcium demand exceeds supply. This may come as a result of low calcium levels or competition for calcium uptake with other mineral nutrients in the soil.

Other factors that can predispose plants to blossom-end rot are very little moisture in the soil caused by drought stress, excessive soil moisture fluctuations which reduce uptake and movement of calcium into the plant, or rapid vegetative growth due to excessive nitrogen fertilization.

In tomatoes, the first visible symptom of this disorder is a small, darkened or water-soaked area around the blossom end of the fruit. The spot darkens, enlarges, and becomes sunken as the fruits mature. Larger lesions may show concentric rings. The affected tissue is leathery and firm unless invaded by secondary decay organisms.

Blossom-end rot usually causes the fruit to ripen prematurely, and it then becomes inedible. Sometimes the affected areas become infected with secondary pathogens which appear black on the affected areas. The affected area can be small or may cover most of the fruit.

Blossom-end rot appears as tan in color in peppers and should not be confused with sunburn, which is whitish and away from the blossom end. Blossom-end rot usually appears on the first cluster of fruits in tomatoes and peppers.

The disease can be controlled by selecting sites with deep, well-drained soils where plants will develop well-formed root systems for optimal uptake of calcium and other mineral nutrients.

Test your soil every three years and lime it as needed. Avoid use of ammoniacal nitrogen fertilizers such as ammonium nitrate because the ammonium inhibits calcium uptake. Do not over-fertilize the plants at planting.

Provide adequate moisture throughout the growing season and mulch the plants. Avoid severe pruning of the plants, and when controlling weeds, do not dig deep closer to the base of the plant. Foliar sprays can be used as a short-term measure, but their absorption by the fruit is poor.

Late planting has delayed garden harvest in much of the state. In Southern Illinois, August to mid-September will be peak season for late-planted tomatoes, snap beans, sweet corn, and other warm-season vegetables set in late May and June. Hot weather speeds crop maturity so harvest readiness should be closely watched to avoid over-maturity and loss of quality.

Timely fruit harvest is especially important because peak harvest windows quickly pass, particularly for grapes and berries. Early apple varieties, late peaches, and plums can quickly drop and/or be damaged by insects and birds as sugar levels increase.

You may also need to water the garden. Fruit and vegetable plantings should not become water-stressed for an extended period, or quality and quantity of yield is adversely affected. For Illinois soils, an average of 1 to 2 inches of water per week is needed for good production.

During the peak season, regularly scout for weeds, insect pests, and diseases. Use an integrated pest management approach in which cultural methods are first, and chemical options are second. When pesticides are used, carefully read the label and closely follow all directions and safety precautions.

There are many different insects and diseases to watch for in vegetables and fruit. Japanese beetles prefer a range of food crops. They can significantly reduce yields of apples, grapes, and raspberries—feeding on both fruit and leaves. They will also feed on sweet corn, okra, beans and even rhubarb.

Monitor other insects such as corn ear worm, cabbage worm, squash bug, and mites as the season progresses. Under warm, humid conditions, and high dew point nights in late summer, diseases such as early blight on tomatoes and potatoes, and powdery mildew on squash and apples become more prevalent.

Fungicide timing and frequency is important to slow these diseases; also avoid getting foliage wet when watering and don't water in the evening.

Fruit management can be very specific depending on the crop. To help ensure a better future harvest on gooseberries and currants, consider making at least one or two fungicide applications to bushes in the weeks following harvest. These plants are prone to losing their leaves to foliar diseases in mid-summer. Fungicides will help delay this leaf loss and thus improve fruit development for next year.

For grape vines, continue fungicide sprays until fruit begin to color and control Japanese beetles as necessary. Be sure to observe days to harvest on the pesticide label. Taste-test grapes close to maturity and harvest at optimum sugar level. Leave any delayed, green clusters for harvest at a later date. Other than keeping vines tied and out of the way of mowers, little management is needed after harvest.

The strawberry patch needs attention as plants begin new growth in mid-summer. Water during drought conditions and keep weeds under control as new runners and daughter plants set root. A late-summer soluble fertilizer application will promote vigor as they set buds in the fall for next year's crop. Ever bearing and day-neutral varieties will flower and sporadically fruit until first frost.

After harvest of brambles (blackberries and raspberries), remove the floricanes (the second year fruiting branches) at ground level to allow this season's primocane (first year) shoots more room to grow and develop. This will also allow greater air movement and thus less foliar disease.

New primocanes should be tied and supported to the trellis. Black raspberry primocanes should be tipped at mid-season to promote side branch development, and trailing type blackberries can be headed back as they reach the top of the trellis. Avoid heading back erect blackberries, such as 'Illini Hardy' and red raspberries.

With fall raspberries and the new fall blackberry varieties that fruit on the primocanes, the harvest season begins in late summer and extends to first frost. Insects and diseases should be closely monitored and managed during their harvest period. Always take special care to observe days to harvest when using pesticides with these crops, which can have both green and mature fruit on the plant at any given time.

As food prices continue to rise, you will likely get more and more questions from home gardeners who want to grow their own food. As these questions arise, the U of I horticulture websites can provide good information. You can access the sites at http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/state/hort.html.

Commercial tomato and sweet corn growers will gather for an informational meeting on August 13, at 6 p.m., at Fournie Farms in Collinsville. As a Master Gardener, you are invited to attend.

Demonstration trials will showcase more recent releases of commercially available sweet corn and tomato varieties. You will also see advance releases from Randy Gardner's tomato breeding program at North Carolina State University. And, specialists will discuss newly labeled pesticides and overall pesticide spray programs.

Fournie Farms is located between I-255 and IL-157, just off Horseshoe Lake Road. From I-255, take Exit 26. Take a left onto Horseshoe Lake Road. Go approximately 1/2 mile; Fournie Farms is on the left. For those taking I-70/55, take Exit 11. Take a left at the light onto IL-157/Bluff Road. Make a left onto Horseshoe Lake Road. Go approximately 3/4 mile; Fournie Farms is on the right. For those using MapQuest, the physical address is Fournie Farms, Inc., 925 McDonough Lake Road, Collinsville, Illinois.

For more information, contact Elizabeth Wahle, 618-692-9434 or wahle@uiuc.edu.

As we bring in loads of sweet corn and tomatoes from the garden, we don't usually think about planting more crops. But, our supply of fresh veggies will quickly dwindle. If you want fresh produce in the months ahead, mid-August through September is the time to plant the fall garden.

Many vegetables, such as broccoli and cauliflower, are higher quality when grown in the fall rather than mid-summer. Some vegetables, such as kale and Swiss chard, develop a better flavor after a frost. But, they should be planted now.

Before seeding fall vegetables, remove all previous crop residues. Till the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Then, incorporate 1 to 1½ pounds of all-purpose dry garden fertilizer like 12-12-12 per 100 square feet.

Plant the seed according to directions on the packet. Keep the soil evenly moist until the seedlings are up and growing; the top 2 inches of soil must be moist at all times to ensure germination.

One easy way to hold in moisture is to place a board over the row until the seedlings start to emerge. Check the rows once or twice a day to make sure seeds have not yet germinated. As soon as seedlings start to break through the soil, remove the board. Protect seedlings from the sun until they are well established. Boxes placed over the plants or boards placed alongside the rows will provide temporary shade.

When putting transplants in, plant them slightly deeper than they were growing in the container. Firm the soil around each plant and water thoroughly with a starter solution. Make the solution by mixing a soluble, high-phosphorus fertilizer in water, following label directions.

In Southern Illinois, direct seed cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussels sprouts by August 15. Transplants of these vegetables, when available, can be set through the end of August.

Direct seed beets, carrots, snap peas, kohlrabi, mustard, and turnips by Labor Day. You can plant spinach, lettuce, and radishes through mid- to late-September. Garlic and over-wintering spinach can be planted through October.

August is the month to divide perennials such as day lilies, iris, and the spring-flowering bulbs like tulips, daffodils, and crocuses. These plants tend to become overgrown after a number of years, and flowering is reduced.

Carefully dig the plants from the ground. Shake off as much soil as you can. Gently wash off the remaining soil so that you can examine the root structure. Spread the plants out to dry. Be sure to label them so you know what is what. A Sharpie™ pen can be used to write on the leaves without any serious effects to the plant.

Iris and daylilies have interesting root systems. Iris technically have rhizomes, which are fleshy, underground, horizontal stems. New shoots and roots arise from the rhizomes. The above ground fans will bloom just once in their life, but they can live for years while producing new fans and roots.

Daylilies have a fleshy root system with swollen roots storing the plant's reserve. You will not find buds or growing points on the roots as with rhizomes.

Examine the iris and daylily roots. With a sharp knife, cut out all injured or diseased parts and discard them. Then divide the plants into clumps, each having a large piece of rhizome or roots and at least two fans of leaves. Large divisions will flower next year. Small divisions may take an extra year.

Throw away the oldest rhizomes of the iris. They won't bloom again.

Bulbs are harder to divide because it is hard to remember where they are located since the foliage has died down. If you have a general idea, carefully work the soil with a spade or spading fork, trying not to pierce the bulbs.

Carefully lift the bulbs and divide. Many of the bulbs can be separated and dried on old screens in the garage. Bulbs that were damaged in the digging process are best separated from others; they may start rotting so add them to your compost pile. Sort the bulbs by size, discarding the diseased or insect-ridden ones.

Since perennials will occupy the same spot in the garden for several years, carefully work the soil, adding bone meal and organic matter to improve fertility and drainage.

If diseases have been present on the plants, dust the rhizomes and roots with a good fungicide before planting. The rhizomes should be spaced 12 to 18 inches apart and planted 1 inch deep in the prepared soil. Thoroughly water them in with a slow stream of water.

Plant the daylilies about 1 to 2 inches deep, though this might vary between plant types. Plant in groups or clumps for mass effect next spring. If the soil has been worked up well, you can practically heel in the plants with your hands and a trowel.

In hot dry weather, some gardeners cut the leaves back by half to reduce stress on the plants. Plants still have the ability to root and establish for next year's bloom cycle.

Bulbs are best re-planted in mid- to late September; store them in a cool basement or refrigerator until ready to plant.

If you are planning to start a new flower garden, plants and bulbs are available in garden centers now. Get started before the fall rush.

- David Robson, horticulture educator

Q. I have two beautiful Euonymus bushes in my garden. The problem is the one next to my back door. During May and June, prior to the blooming of the flowers, the plant smells like "dead fish." Now in July, the white flowers are in bloom, but the bush attracts swarms of flies. Friends get shocked when they approach the back door. Are there any reasons for these terrible manifestations – dead fish aroma and fly swarms? Are there any solutions besides chopping off the bush?

A. Are you sure it is Euonymus? Most euonymus don't have attractive flowers, and few people actually see them; they just tend to hang down and look innocuous.

It is more likely that something is rotting amongst the branches— it could be the root system, it could be mulch, or it could be something else like a neighbor's cat marking its territory. That being said, E. kiautschovicus is a species known to attract flies and bees. It has greenish-white, 1½- to 4-inch-wide flower heads (cymes) in July to August.

In the references we found, there is no mention of plant odor. This plant is also called Spreading Euonymus and is a semi-evergreen that reaches to 5 to 10 feet.

If the shrub is not too large, then flower removal is an option. An insecticide is not recommended, except as a safety concern to prevent stings. It is possible that native bee species or honeybees are attracted to the plant, and we don't want to harm them

- Answers provided by David Robson and Tony Bratsch, U of I Extension horticulture educators

Q. I have two raspberry plants that are three years old. They seem healthy and bloom abundantly in the spring, but they have not set fruit. Can you give me any suggestions as to why they will not set fruit and what I might do to solve this problem for next year?

A. A total lack of fruit set and no symptoms on the leaves or stems would suggest a sterility problem that may be virus related. You can send a sample to the U of I plant clinic to identify whether a disease pathogen is present. Should a virus be the culprit, removal of the plants is the only option. Due to the expense of testing for virus, it would be more economical to just replace the plants.

- Answers provided by David Robson and Tony Bratsch, U of I Extension horticulture educators

Q. I have six holly shrubs planted in two beds on the west side of my house. They've been there over 10 years. They've always been extremely healthy. This year, two on one side of the porch and one on the other side of the porch are losing leaves to the point that I fear the plants will die. This started before the Japanese beetles. I don't see any sign of insect damage…just leaves falling off. The three remaining shrubs are just fine and growing well. Any suggestions for saving the sick plants?

A. Without seeing photos, it's hard to tell. It could be tar spot (a fungal disease), winter injury (snow/ice accumulation, freezing and thawing), excess moisture this spring rotting the roots, a gas leak, or root weevils. This is a case for pictures and more information.

- Answers provided by David Robson and Tony Bratsch, U of I Extension horticulture educators

Japanese beetles are back in full force. They have been eating away on plants throughout the region.

Japanese beetles are those shiny, metallic green-headed beetles that are feeding on flowers and vegetables—skeletonizing the leaves and leaving only veins.

The beetles prefer feeding in full sun and rarely feed in heavy shade. Adult beetles will be present through August.

Generally, pesticide sprays of carbaryl (Sevin) can provide some control up to two weeks. Sevin is toxic to bees and other beneficial insects, so be careful with it.

Synthetic pyrethroids can also be effective. Again follow all label directions.

Picking off the beetles by hand is another option. When disturbed, the insects fold their legs and drop. So, you can pick them off and drop them into a container of soapy water or rubbing alcohol to kill them.

Japanese beetle traps are not recommended because they increase the population near them and, thus, increase plant damage. Just because you are catching beetles doesn't mean you are reducing the population.

Japanese beetles rarely kill plants, so use the control method best suited for you.

For more information, download our Japanese Beetles Factsheet at http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/regions/sifamily. Click on Around the House and then Tip of the Month.

- Ed Billingsley, guest columnist