University of Illinois Extension

Master Gardener Meeting

Effingham County

Tuesday May 13^th, 2008

President, Normalie Strickland called the meeting to order at 6:38. Present at the meeting in addition to Normalie were Lyetta Awalt, Larry Johnson, Betty Boos, Leslie Niebrugge, Purnima Shah, Karen Hakman, Brenda Roedl, and Rita Kemme.

Minutes

Minutes of the April meeting were read. Motion to approve by Leslie and second by Betty. Motion carried.

Financial

The financial situation still stands at zero. Word has been received that the Governor is going to release the extension funds, but to date nothing has been received.

Brenda's Notes

Office: Karen has been helping to get caught up in the office, but any other help is appreciated.

Arboretum trip: A trip is planned by the new Master Gardener group to tour the arboretum in Champaign for May 14^th, 2008. Diane Noland will host the group. Call early if you are interested.

Cross: The Cross is interested in doing some interest areas and would be interested in our input as to where and what. They have suggested a maze or labyrinth, which would be done by an outside group, but would like an idea where. Suggestion was made to place it on the west side of the sidewalk, south of the cross. Then the mound with the Dogwood could go on the east end by the east west sidewalk. The dogwood donated by the Garden club has died and we will need to replace it. Other ideas were looked at also. Brenda had all the plans with the footage layouts, and the ideas put forth by Roger Hunt from Trees Forever. Suggestion was made that we replace the Golden Privet behind the chapel area, and some of the other shrubs we have lost. Brenda and Karen have pulled weeds and dug up much of the sage that was taking over the East garden by the building. Rita said she and Moe would cut down the grass as soon as it stops raining. The water problems were again discussed.

Women in the Outdoors: will be having their day at Ballard again this year. Brenda is unable to be there and if someone would be interested in doing the Herbs, please call, otherwise it will need to be cancelled.

Old Business

Newspaper Articles: Tom has written another article. Anyone else wishing to get some hours in could write on any subject they like. Rita appreciates all.

New Business

Appliance recycling: Purnima said she has 4 large items and has called the city, but nothing is in place. "Baby Huey" was mentioned that they pick up in Teutopolis, but the items have to be at the curbside at someone's house in T-Town. Too bad Effingham can't have a service, and this would maybe help clear up some of the junk problems in some yards.

Adjourn

Purnima made a motion to adjourn and Betty seconded that motion. Meeting adjourned at 9:00 P.M.

Next meeting will be held on June 10^th, 2008.

Submitted by: Rita Kemme, secretary.

- Rita Kemme

Spring is the time to get algae under control in your pond. Algae—that greenish, slimy stuff—is a common problem. The key to control is to start early in the year, while the water is cool and the algae is growing slowly. April is the ideal time, but this spring has been so cool the water temperatures are still low.

The safest herbicides are copper-containing products like copper sulfate or copper chelates. Applied in the spring, these products provide good control with little danger to the fish, and there are few restrictions on using the pond. The water can still be used for drinking, fishing, and swimming. Make sure you read and follow all label directions.

Another product that can be used is a dye. When the dye is added to the pond, it changes the color of the water to a bright blue. This process reduces the light penetrating the water, and it reduces the plants' ability to grow. The result is less algae and submerged plant growth. The dye product should be added before the water temperature gets above 60 degrees. The warmer the temperature, the faster the plant kill.

If weed control is done later in the season with warmer temperatures and more weeds, the decomposing weeds in the pond may remove too much oxygen from the water, causing a fish kill if aeration isn't provided. That's why it is important to start early in the season while there are few weeds and the water is cool.

Keep in mind that only herbicides that are registered for aquatic weed control may legally be used to control vegetation in ponds. Carefully read the herbicide label before purchasing a product to insure that it is registered for aquatic weed control. The use of non-registered herbicides is a violation of federal law and may result in fines and other penalties. An excellent reference on aquatic weed identification and control is available on the web from Purdue University at www.btny.purdue.edu/Pubs/index.html#APM .

Our landscapes seem so idyllic. We assume our garden plants are quietly co-existing with one another…. but are they really? Actually, plants growing nearby are competitors. They are reaching for the same patch of sunlight or sending roots out to absorb water and nutrients along with every other plant.

So how do you reduce this competition? Plants deal with it by producing some type of toxic substance that will harm or kill off their competitors. In the plant world, this is called allelopathy.Certain plants have an ability to restrict or limit the growth of surrounding plants or inhibit seed germination. Allelopathic plants make surrounding plants suffer by releasing chemicals in various ways. They may suppress seed germination or affect seedling growth. Researchers continue to figure out this silent warfare between plants. A common form of allelopathy is Walnut Wilt.

Members of the walnut family such as Black Walnut (Juglans nigra), Butternut (Juglans cinerea ) and Pecan (Carya illinoinensis) can create wilting symptoms in certain other plants that are growing in close proximity to their roots. What people need to understand is that tree roots extend well beyond the drip line of the canopy. A mature Black Walnut growing in your neighbor's yard could have roots extending to your vegetable garden where tomatoes are very susceptible.

Scientists have isolated the toxic compound, naming it juglone. Juglone has been found throughout the plant in the leaves, bark, wood, and husks of the nut. But the highest concentration is found in the roots. Whether juglone interferes with photosynthesis or water uptake is still a question for researchers. It has been indicated that juglone interferes with how nitrogen is rendered usable for plant uptake. To prevent walnut wilt, locate susceptible plants such as tomato, potato, apple, lilac, blackberry, asparagus, chrysanthemum, azalea, rhododendron, and peony away from walnut trees.

Another allelopathic example involves the decay of crucifers in your garden. As broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage decay, they release compounds that prevent some seeds such as lettuce from germinating. Sweet potatoes also release compounds as they decay.

Recently a new killing toxin was found. Phragmites australis is a tall grass that aggressively spreads by rhizomes in wetlands or in any low-lying area where water collects. We often see it along highways. In the winter, we notice the bronze-purple seed head.

Plant biologists at the University of Delaware have discovered that Phragmites exudes from its roots a toxic acid that literally disintegrates the structural protein in the roots of nearby plants. Research reports that within 10 minutes of exposure to this toxin, the structural protein of a marsh plant starts to disintegrate, and within 20 minutes the structural material is gone. No wonder other plants don't grow around Phragmites. The plant dissolves its competitors.

Reducing competition is nothing new. Plants have developed survival mechanisms to insure continuation of their offspring. Don't be fooled by their passive nature. Remember, not all plants play well with one another.

Spring has finally arrived, and home gardeners are busy buying seed and plants for landscaped areas and vegetable gardens.One of the best things you can do to ensure success with new trees, shrubs, annuals, and perennial and vegetable gardens is to properly prepare planting areas. Plants will establish faster and be more resilient to the rigors of summer heat and drought. Well-prepared soils efficiently hold and release nutrients and moisture. Properly prepared soil also lets air get to the roots.

For much of central and southern Illinois, soils tend to be heavy and poorly drained. Plants do not grow and root well in tight, compacted, clay-dominated soils. That's why it's so important to cultivate these soils to improve their aeration and drainage. Deeply turn planting areas with a spade to loosen and aerate the site. Avoid working soils when they are wet. In general, when a spade full of soil easily breaks up, it is time to go to work.

For trees and shrubs, a wide hole is better than a deep hole because the width helps new roots explore into the native soils. For spot planting into established landscape and perennial beds, carefully spade near existing plants to minimize root damage, making the hole as wide as you can.

Annual flower beds and vegetable gardens respond well to hand spading or plowing the entire area, followed by roto-tilling. Rooting will be improved, and past year residues will be incorporated, which may help decrease some diseases.

As soils are dug and tilled, add plenty of organic matter to aid both fertility and drainage. Whether it is compost, old manure, peat or a pre-bagged product found at a local garden center, any composted, organic material will do wonders for our area's soils. But, avoid adding fresh manure, sawdust, wood chips, and sand.

Another way to improve soil drainage is to use raised beds. A simple raised bed can be formed by throwing soil from the bed edges to the center and using a hard rake to form the bed and level the surface. This should be done after the area has been thoroughly tilled. Permanent raised beds can be made using pressure-treated lumber or other landscape construction materials.

Soils should also be fertilized before planting. Fertilizers have varying amounts of three key nutrients, xpressed as a percentage of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). These are the three numbers you will find on a bag of fertilizer, such as a 13-13-13 (N-P-K).

In landscape and bed areas that have been cultivated, limed, and fertilized from year to year, levels of P and K and soil pH (acidity level) may already be within recommended ranges. A soil test will confirm this. Because nitrogen is easily lost from the soil, it needs to be added each year for good plant growth.

Most turfgrass fertilizers are high in nitrogen, along with small amounts of phosphorus and potassium, such as a 28-5-5 fertilizer. If a high-nitrogen fertilizer is used, only half as much is needed on an area basis. For example, most flower bed and garden areas need 1 to 2 pounds of 13-13-13, compared to only 1/2 to 1 pound of 28-5-5 per 100 square feet of bed area. Later in the season, supplemental fertilizer may be needed to keep plants vigorous. New trees and shrubs will benefit from 1 to 2 handfuls (1/2 cup) of a slow-release phosphorus and potassium fertilizer worked into the backfill and bottom of the planting hole. Manure and wood ash will reduce the need for P and K fertilizers.

Proper soil preparation is the secret to success in the garden. Taking the time before planting to deeply cultivate and properly amend soils will bring rewards of healthy, strong plants through this and future growing seasons. For more lawn and garden information, visit the Extension horticulture websites, www.extension.uiuc.edu.

Look at landscapes today and you'll see grapevines on a wall or in a tree. Sometimes, they are even along a fence. In many old photos, you will see a grapevine arbor in the background. A grape arbor can serve as a passage, shade area, or as an attractive accent in the home landscape.

The arbor can be large or small—the choice depends on its function. The fruit can be eaten fresh, or you can make it into jam or juice. Grapes can be allowed to grow naturally and form a thick arrangement of canes. There is nearly no upkeep on any vine grown for shade. But, a vine not pruned will yield little fruit.

Of course, grapes like full sun and can survive in most any soil with good drainage.Most experts suggest that you thin the vine each year to reduce disease and increase fruit production. The pruning should be done in March or early April. Basic pruning is cutting the vine back to two or three buds per branch and thinning out excess branches.

Several varieties work well in a grape arbor. 'Concord'—the deep purple, old American variety—grows well. It should be pruned to reduce disease. Today there are both seeded and seedless Concord varieties. 'Reliance' is a hardy red table grape with excellent flavor. This variety is seedless and is also cold tolerant. 'Himrod' is a seedless white grape that produces large bunches of grapes. This variety is not as cold hardy as 'Reliance.'

Suggest these varieties to clients who are interested in growing some backyard grapes. A newly planted vine will not need an arbor until the following year.

The tomato is one of the most popular vegetables for the home garden. Its popularity is most likely due to its many culinary uses and its ability to produce a big crop under many growing conditions.

Although the tomato will grow in almost any kind of soil, it grows best in soil that is fertile, well drained, and in good tilth. It also needs plenty of sunshine and water, so avoid planting in the shade of buildings and trees. And although you may be anxious for that first home-grown tomato, it doesn't pay to rush the planting season. With the intermittent cool, damp weather typical for April, early set plants don't normally grow well without protective measures. Many protective devices are available—such as a cloche (glass bell), floating row covers, Wall o Water, or, for those who recycle, milk jugs.

For successful tomato production, select a good variety and healthy plants. Many of the heirloom varieties such as 'Mortgage Lifter' and 'Yellow Pear' are available and may perform satisfactorily. However, there are many new varieties and hybrids on the market that may perform better and have some resistance to troublesome diseases. Compare the new varieties with your old favorites. When buying transplants, plants should be dark- green, medium-tall, heavy-stemmed, and without open flowers or fruit. Avoid the tall, leggy, pale-green or yellow plants because these will grow slower and will not mature as readily. Buy the best plants possible, either potted or in flats.

It takes 65 to 80 days for most small vigorous transplants to mature into a crop of fruit. Oversized plants will yield a few fruit earlier than this. With most plants and varieties, the maximum yield and quality will come in mid- to late July, but healthy plants will continue fruiting until frost.

To stake, cage, or to let them ramble on the ground is your decision at planting time. Staked plants can be planted 18 inches apart in the row; caged plants need to be 2 to 3 feet apart, and non-staked plants should be 3 to 6 feet apart in the row. Yields should be 5 to 15 pounds from staked plants, 10 to 20 pounds from caged plants, and 15 to 30 pounds from ground plants. But, realize that disease incidence and slug damage can be significantly higher if plants are not staked or caged.

You can reduce maintenance time by applying a mulch to smother the weeds and improve soil moisture conditions. Good mulch materials include plastic mulch and organic materials like peat moss, straw, and ground corncobs. Hay is not generally recommended because of the seed content; grass clippings can pose the same problem. Organic mulches are normally applied after planting, and plastic mulches are usually applied prior to planting.

- Elizabeth Wahle, horticulture specialist

This year's cool, wet spring gave us an extended period of time to enjoy crocus, daffodils, tulips, and other spring bulbs, as well as spring-flowering shrubs. But, when the flowers fade, we need to take measures to ensure good return bloom for next spring.

For spring bulbs that have completed their flowering, a single application of a soluble fertilizer such as Miracle Gro^TM will help keep the foliage vigorous and supply nutrients to new offsets and bulblets that will develop underground from the larger bulbs in the coming months.

Often, bulb foliage is prematurely mowed or trimmed back to allow other perennials space to grow and bloom. But, we need to let the foliage grow until it begins to fade and go dormant in the summer. One way to reduce the coarse appearance of bulb foliage is to gather it in bundles, securing with a rubber band to keep it neat in appearance until the foliage yellows. This method is effective for daffodils, but it may damage bulbs such as tulips because of their more brittle foliage. The spent flower stem can also be removed to improve appearance and to keep seeds from developing, thus increasing nutrients to developing bulbs.

Once the foliage has yellowed, it can be trimmed back to ground level. If you are planning on adding more bulbs in the fall to thicken or add dimension to your bulb display, be sure to mark existing bulb sites to avoid digging damage. For more tips on bulb selection and care, visit the U of I Extension "Bulbs and More" website at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/bulbs/.

Another late spring garden task is to prune spring-blooming shrubs soon after their flowers begin to fade. Pruning now will help invigorate the plant and, if done promptly, will allow plenty of time for next spring's flower buds to develop through the summer and early fall on this year's new growth. Plants such as lilac, flowering quince, and forsythia are good examples of spring-blooming shrubs common to our region. They can be pruned each year by removing a small percentage—10 to 25 percent—of older canes at ground level.

By removing older, less vigorous, disease- or insect-damaged canes, the plant is gradually renewed, allowing new shoot development at the plant base. Older branches can also be trimmed back and shaped up for appearance and to reduce overall plant size. Follow pruning with a light fertilization, using a general analysis fertilizer such as granular 13-13-13 (1/4 to 1/2 cup per plant) or a soluble fertilizer such as Miracle Gro^TM at the labeled rate.

Taking care of spring bulbs and pruning spring flowering shrubs now helps to ensure an even better display next year.

- Tony Bratsch, horticulture educator

.Q. Last month, your article on asparagus said not to use salt for weed control. I understand how it can affect the soil for other future plants. But, what if you only plant asparagus in that location every year? My asparagus is in an area where I would never want to plant other vegetables. Is salt okay to use in that case?

A. Asparagus is tolerant to a fair degree of salt in the soil and is found growing naturally near seaside areas. Although sprinkling salt on the soil surface has been a long-time remedy to control weeds in asparagus beds, the advent of consumer- available herbicides such as Preen makes weed control just as easy and less detrimental to the soil.

In answer to your question, excess salt in and on the soil can lead to gradual decline in soil structure over time. This can affect water penetration as well as soil nutrient availability and uptake, potentially affecting asparagus growth and yield in future years. Salt-damaged soils can become crusty and "slick" over time.

The reality is that salt application to control weeds is not an environmentally-friendly approach. Many dollars have been spent trying to reclaim soil areas destroyed by oil well salt water discharge in the Midwest and, in the West, sodic agricultural soils caused by steady evaporation of soil salts to the surface. Salt-damaged soils can be reclaimed by adding gypsum (calcium sulfate which helps to loosen soil structure), by leaching, by flooding with water and, to some extent, by adding organic matter to improve damaged structure.

- Answers provided by U of I Extension experts Tony Bratsch and Ed Billingsley

Q. I want to add some crabapple trees to my yard but have been told apple scab will be a problem. Is this true?

A. Apple scab is a serious fungal disease that affects both apple and crabapple trees in southern Illinois. So, your best option is to pick a variety that is resistant to scab. Here are two you may want to consider.

'Gibbs Golden Gage' has a pink bloom with yellow fruit about 1 inch in size and will reach a height of 20 feet.

'Coralburst' has a pink bloom with red fruit 5/8 inch in size. This tree produces few fruits and is dwarf, growing to less than a 12-foot height.

There are several more crabapple varieties that are resistant to scab. When buying, look for varieties that are resistant to scab, fire blight, and other diseases.

- Answers provided by U of I Extension experts Tony Bratsch and Ed Billingsley

I can't tell you how many times people have told me they have no place to garden. I always ask them, "Do you have 1 square foot?" Then, the conversation turns to options available for a small space.

Whether you want to grow flowers or vegetables, container gardening can solve the problem of small spaces. How can you grow anything in a square foot? Well, how about stacking some pots. Begin with a 12-inch pot with a 5/8-inch dowel in the center, then a 10-inch, an 8-inch, and a 6-inch. Pot size can vary, but you will have a tower of pots ready for plants. You might plant a tower of petunias or perhaps a tower of vegetables such as green beans, cucumbers, or tomatoes ready for the kitchen.

Place your tower in a location where you won't have to move it. This structure can be heavy and awkward. Fill each pot with a quality potting soil. Keep the plants watered and fertilized on a regular basis. The result will be an edible delight or a visual treat, depending on your plant choice. So, start stacking those pots and make that 1 square foot area productive with your favorite flowers or vegetables.

- Ed Billingsley, guest columnist