Notes from Brenda

Easter is almost here and that means Spring is too! Yeah!!!

Hope you have those plants started and ready for the garden. We planted potatoes to day. The peas went in last week and so did the onions. I can't wait to taste them. I would really like a tomato, but I know that's just not going to happen until July.

The Plant Sale is May 3rd this year, so take a walk around the yard and decide what needs to be divided or just out of there. If you need help, digging, potting or carrying please call me at the office and I will arrange for some help for you.

Anyone interested in doing a bird program for kids like we did a few years ago, let me know.

We have some work to do at Lakeland Nursing Center-clean up last years plants and reading them for planting, filling the raised beds with more soil, and planting the tomatoes. Of course, it is too early for the tomatoes as of yet, unless we use wall-o-waters-which I do have a few. I think we could put in a shade garden under the big tree in the court yard and remember the triangle court yards? Well, we will need some plans once, they have built the gazebo.

Lots to think about and plenty to do!

Thank you all for all that you do to make my job easier and educating the residents of Effingham in the ways of taking care of their environment and making the Cross beautiful..

- Brenda Roedl

University of Illinois Extension

Effingham County

Master Gardener Meeting Minutes

February 12, 2008

Due to in climate weather conditions, the February meeting was cancelled.

- Ritta Kemme

Scale insects on shade and fruit trees as well as shrubs can usually be controlled in late winter with a dormant oil spray. Dormant oil is lightweight petroleum oil usually sold as dormant oil, superior oil, or Volck oil spray. It is applied to deciduous woody plants while they are dormant to kill exposed overwintering insects. Cottony maple, lecanium, euonymus, and San Jose scales, as well as European red mite, are the most common pests controlled because they are difficult to control at other times of the year.

Scales are protected from insecticides for most of the year by either a hardened body wall or a secreted waxy covering. Outside of dormant oil treatments, scale insects are only susceptible to pesticides as crawlers shortly after egg hatch. The crawler stage lasts only for a few days before the insect settles down into a leaf or branch to feed. It then molts to the next nymph stage and develops its protective covering.

Mites are difficult to control during the summer because they quickly reproduce and are not controlled by most insecticides. Miticides are needed to control mites, but they kill both the harmful and the beneficial insects that are naturally trying to keep the bad guys away.

When dormant oil is applied, it covers the overwintering mite eggs, the overwintering scale insects, and any exposed insect eggs. This coating of oil shuts off these pests' air supply and suffocates them. This pesticide is used while the plant is dormant because the oil can also be toxic to the plant. Applications before leaves start to emerge reduce this problem.

For the same reason, dormant oils should be applied only if the temperature for the 24 hours after treatment stays above 40 degrees so that the oil quickly evaporates off the bark.

Evergreens and hard maples, such as sugar maple and Norway maple, should not be sprayed with a dormant oil spray because of the potential for damage. However, it is possible to spray Euonymus vines (Big Leaf Wintercreeper) and lilacs to control scales on them. Don't worry if the leaves fall off a Euonymus plant. They would have dropped when new growth starts in a few weeks.

Dormant oil only needs to be applied once every three or four years. Make sure to spray the areas beneath the plant as well.

Many gardeners start vegetable seeds indoors—and for good reason. Some vegetable seeds are expensive, particularly hybrid varieties, so starting them indoors helps minimize seed loss due to rodents or poor weather. Also, vegetables established from transplants tend to mature much earlier than direct-seeded ones.

Planting time for vegetable seeds started indoors depends on when the seedling needs to be transplanted in the garden. This time may vary from 4 to 14 weeks.

For example, if the indoor start is done in relation to the last frost, the times are as follows:

· 10 weeks—broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and head lettuce

· 7 weeks—tomato, eggplant, and pepper

· 4 weeks—cucumber, squash, muskmelon, and watermelon

Start with treated seeds. Treated seeds can control fungal diseases, such as damping off, that attack seedlings.

Test the germination percentage of the seeds by placing some of the seeds on a moist paper towel and setting it in a warm place with plenty of light. Check after six to seven days, depending on how long the seed of a particular type takes to germinate, and count the germinated seeds and express it as a percentage of the total number of seeds tested. You need to plant seeds based on a germination percentage so that you can get the required number of plants for transplanting in the garden.

Pots or trays for starting seeds need to have drainage holes on the bottom. Cover the holes with peat moss before filling with potting mix or soil. The soil needs to be light, loose, disease-free, insect-free, weed-seed-free, have good water-holding capacity, and be well-drained.

Fill trays or other containers with potting mix and gently level. Place the filled container on a pan of water overnight so that water can soak into the potting mix from the bottom. If trays are used, make shallow rows about 1 to 2 inches apart when starting different kinds or varieties of vegetables and label each row after seeding. If you are only starting one type of vegetable, you can broadcast the seed in the tray.

Gently press the seeds into the starting media according to the planting depth recommended on the seed packet. Cover the container with plastic film or a piece of window glass to retain the moisture until seeds germinate.

Do not place covered containers in direct sunlight. Place the containers in a warm location with a temperature range of 65 to 75 degrees for most vegetables. Some cool-season veggies such as cabbage, broccoli, peas, and cauliflower tend to do well when started at temperatures of about 55 degrees. After germination, remove the plastic film or glass cover and move the cool-loving plants to a cooler location.

Inspect the plants for damping off disease. Remove infected plants and drench the media with the recommended fungicides.

Place the seedlings in a well-lit area, such as a bright south-facing window. Or, you can use two fluorescent light bulbs (one cool and one warm white bulb) and place the seedlings 3 to 4 inches from the tubes for 14 to 16 hours per day. Adjust the space between the light bulbs and seedlings as the plants get larger.

Good air humidity is an asset. Do not overwater plants but ensure that plants are not wilting.

Apply a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at half the recommended rate once every two weeks. After the appearance of true leaves, if the seeds were planted in individual containers or flats, thin the plants to the desired number by removing weaker ones.

At this stage, you can transplant seedlings into individual pots or larger containers or transfer to a hotbed, if one is available.

Vegetables that can easily be transplanted from one container to another are broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, lettuce, and tomatoes. Some vegetables such as cauliflower, celery, eggplant, onion, and pepper have slower root development and are not as easily transferred.

Most warm-loving vegetables such as cucumbers, muskmelon, squash, and watermelon do not transplant well so they are seeded directly into larger cells or pots where they grow until reaching a size that can be transplanted in the garden. Before transplanting seedlings in the garden, get the plants ready for outdoor conditions.

Two weeks before transplanting, move them to a shaded area outdoors or place them in a cold frame. Then, move them gradually to sunlight for a short time during the day. Increase the length of exposure with time. Do not expose seedlings to freezing temperatures or strong winds. Reduce watering and after proper hardening, plant them in the garden.

There is an old saying that you can prune a tree whenever the saw is sharp. But, the effects of pruning a tree can vary with the season and according to how much of the tree is pruned away.

Early spring pruning of trees is often preferred because plants are approaching a period of rapid growth, and pruning wounds will heal quickly. In general, if all you want to do is trim out dead, weak, or diseased parts of the tree, this type of pruning can be done at any time of the year without drastic effects on the tree.

If you prune to thin the trees—to allow light for grass and shrubs—prune in late winter or early spring. Heavy pruning done after growth starts in spring can weaken a tree because it forces the tree to use stored food for

re-growth instead of for new growth. Heavy pruning during late summer should also be avoided because it can stimulate lush, succulent growth.

Elm, ash, and oak are exceptions. Prune elm and oak during late summer, fall, or winter to avoid the chance of infection with Dutch Insects spread these diseases, and fresh wounds made during the growing season are likely attractants. Ash trees under stress should not be pruned during June or July because of the likelihood of an infestation with ash borer.

Many people think large trees should be topped. This is a misconception. Rather than eliminating "top heaviness," topping produces a weak tree that is subject to major problems.

When a tree is topped, large branches are drastically cut back in length. Most of the small, leaf- bearing branches are also removed. Topping a tree leaves many large stubs that can provide an ideal entrance for insects and diseases. The shearing effect results in a mass of growth the following year, near the end of each cut. These branches are weak and easily broken.

A more severe problem caused by topping occurs in the root system. A delicate balance exists between the leaf and root area. When many branches are removed, portions of the root system will die because there are not enough leaves to manufacture food for the roots. Disease organisms that lead to rotting frequently attack these dead and dying roots.

Improper pruning of limbs can also lead to weak, hollowed trunks. Pruning cuts should be made close to the trunk, a bud, or a branch. Do not leave stubs. Stubs are an open invitation to rot and decay and eventually can lead to rot entering healthy tissue and the trunk. Proper pruning averts this problem.

Proper pruning techniques include removing dead or dying branches; eliminating narrow, v-shaped crotch angles; trimming out limbs that grow towards the center of the tree; removing limbs that rub together; making cuts close to the trunk or branch; and not leaving stubs.

Pruning controls the growth and shape of plants, and it is an essential requirement for removing diseased or damaged plant material. We all know that pruning stimulates growth. But in the case of houseplants, we prune to reduce the width and height of plants.

Often houseplants can be pinched. This method of pruning removes a stem end to promote side bud growth. Using this technique will keep plants bushy and full. Simply pinch off the stem back to a leaf. Those plants which appear elongated can easily be pinched back for a more compact look.

In some cases, root pruning is necessary. This practice is used to hold back a plant's growth. In other words, we are trying to keep a plant in a small container. Keep in mind there are limits as to how much of the root system can be removed. If a plant requires root pruning, be sure to remove some foliage so the remaining root system is not stressed.

If you prefer to use pruners instead of pinching, select a pair of by-pass pruners. These pruners make clean cuts and do not crush stems like anvil-type pruners. Plant stems that are crushed take longer to recover.

So pinch or prune those houseplants to keep them looking their best!

If you're one of those gardeners who likes to get a head start on the growing season, you might want to build a cold frame.

A cold frame is a simple structure that provides warmth from the sun and blocks the wind. The sun's rays enter through a transparent cover, creating a greenhouse effect that heats the interior.

A cold frame allows you to expand the growing season one to three months. Many gardeners use cold frames to harden off transplants. But, you can also raise a few salad vegetables. Lettuce, radishes, and scallions will grow to full size in a cold frame before their regular outdoor planting season. And in the fall, you can grow these same crops in the cold frame through November. You can even use a cold frame in the winter to force bulbs, store root vegetables, or propagate trees and shrubs by hardwood cuttings.

Permanent cold frames should be sturdy enough to withstand years of sun and weather. Most cold frames are made of wood and have a hinged covering. Wood and glass windows make a great covering, but they are heavy and breakable. Other options are covers made of plexiglass or a double layer of clear plastic. Doubling the plastic creates dead air space for additional insulation in the cover.

Cold frame lids should be hinged for easy opening. On a sunny day, air in the cold frame can get too hot for plants. So, you need to prop open the lid to allow cool air in. Some mail-order garden centers offer temperature-controlled cold frame hinges that automatically open and close to vent the frame.

Ideally, cold frames should be located against a south or east wall near the building foundation to take advantage of its heat. Portable cold frames built of lightweight material allow you to move the frame to different sun exposures as seasons and plants change. Portable frames can also be set on concrete blocks or bricks to add height for tall plants.

You can turn a cold frame into a hot bed by adding heating cables. The bottom heat of a hot bed encourages root growth in plants. A waterproof, thermostatically controlled heating cable should be buried in a layer of sand 2 inches beneath the plants. Another heating method is to place fresh manure in the bottom of the cold frame. As the manure decomposes, it releases heat and creates a natural hot bed.

With a hot bed, vegetable and flower seeds can sprout and grow in sunlight instead of artificial light. Many seedlings require constant warm soil temperatures to germinate, so a hot bed gets them off to a better start.

The Easter season is a time of joy both for the religious significance and the promise of spring. What better symbol for the

season than the Easter lily? With its beautiful, clear, 6- to 8-inch-long, bell-like white flowers and its wonderful fragrance, this plant offers a sense of peace and hope for the coming spring and summer seasons.

Lilium longiflorum is the Latin name for the common Easter lily. Popular cultivars are "Ace," which grows to 18 inches, "Croft," which grows to 24 inches, and "Estate," which can reach 3 feet in height.

Care for your Easter lily during the holiday is easy. They do best in indirect, bright light or curtain-filtered sunlight when in flower. Cool, nighttime temperatures between 40 and 50 degrees help extend the bloom period. Daytime temperatures no higher than 68 degrees are ideal. Keep the soil moist while in flower, but don't fertilize at this time.

Inside the white, bell-like flowers are pollen-bearing golden anthers, or the male part of the flower. Most people prefer to remove these because by removing the pollen, the flower doesn't become pollinated, so the theory is the blossoms last longer.

Another more practical reason is that the golden yellow pollen stains clothing if someone brushes up against the plant. The pollen also stains the white flowers. The anthers are easily removed as soon as the flower opens, which is usually before the pollen is freed. Just reach in and gently twist and pull, or use a pair of scissors.

Post-holiday care is also easy. After the flowers fade, remove the lily flowers and clip any browning leaves. Place the plants in a sunny area and water as the foliage matures. As soon as the danger of frost is past, plant the lily in a sunny, well-drained garden spot.

The real bloom time for Easter lilies is mid- to late summer; they have been forced for Easter bloom. Place the bulbs a few inches deeper than they were in the pot. Apply an all-purpose garden fertilizer at this time. The old top will wither and die, but soon afterwards, new shoots should emerge and the plant will bloom again in July or August.

The Easter lily is not 100 percent hardy in Illinois. Many people get good results by using winter protection, but do realize you may lose them in a very cold winter.

Forcing them indoors for Easter bloom is tricky. Professional growers are always challenged due to the fact that Easter is never at the same time from year to year. With Christmas poinsettias, growers can follow a traditional calendar method—but not so with Easter lilies.

A method known as leaf counting is often the most reliable for scheduling Easter lilies. If you want to try forcing your Easter lily, do not let it flower in July or August. You will have to de-bud the plant at this time. Allowing the bulb to flower outdoors weakens the bulbs for indoor forcing.

The plant must be dug up before the chance of fall frost. Plant the bulb in a pot about the same size as the original pot. Place the bulb as low in the pot as possible and add potting soil only to the top of the bulb. Water thoroughly and keep as near to 45 to 50 degrees as possible through January 1.

During this time, only water to prevent drying out. After January 1, put the plant in a sunny window, water, and fertilize as with any houseplant. Add the remainder of the soil needed to fill the pot to near the rim after the stem has grown 3 to 4 inches tall.

If staking is necessary, place the stake near the pot wall instead of through the bulb. After the first buds turn white, keep the plant out of direct sunlight.

- Martha Smith, horticulture educator

Q. I'd like to have a nice looking lawn this year. Any tips you could suggest?

A. All spring lawn care activity should be aimed at increasing the plant's root system and shoot density. However, many of the usual spring practices do the opposite.

Fertilizing in April is considered normal, but it is actually one of the worst things to do. Fertilizing stimulates top growth at the expense of root growth. The lawn will develop an attractive color and thicken, but the root system will lag behind. As long as temperatures remain on the cool side, no noticeable effect is viewed. But, when temperatures warm, the root system struggles to provide adequate moisture to keep blades and crowns alive.

In southern Illinois, we generally forego spring fertilizing until mid-May. Around Mother's Day, supply the lawn with

1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet to increase shoot growth for the summer. It may take time to adjust to the concept of late spring fertilizing, especially if the neighbor's lawn looks greener and thicker. But like all landscape care, the long-term results are better than the short-term ones.

The first week of April is the time to apply crabgrass control. Crabgrass is a warm-season annual weed with a leaf blade three to four times as thick as bluegrass. The difference in appearance contributes to crabgrass's weedy nature. Crabgrass germinates when temperatures are above 55 degrees for 5 to 7 consecutive days.

Pre-emergence herbicides provide the best weed control. Follow directions on the package and water in because pre-emergence chemicals have little effect if they are not near the weed seed as it germinates. Avoid using pre-emergence controls if overseeding is necessary. Most chemicals are unable to distinguish between weed seed and grass seed. While pre-emergence weed control and fertilizer combinations are available, it's still best to wait until May before fertilizing.

Other spring practices to consider include de-thatching, aerating and overseeding.

Finally, start mowing the lawn as soon as it needs it. Before you start up the mower, pick up debris such as sticks and twigs.

- David Robson, horticulture educator

Groundcover plants can solve problems and unify your landscape. They provide dense soil cover, retard weed growth, and prevent soil erosion. Groundcovers range in height from an inch to 4 feet. They can be woody or herbaceous; clumping or running; evergreen or deciduous. There is a broad array of colors and textures to choose from.

Groundcovers can also unify different components in the landscape. Non-spreading types of groundcovers can be used as hedging material, traffic barriers, or visual guides toward an entry. They soften hardscapes such as walks, steps, and driveways.

Groundcovers help to define space. A low groundcover can provide a transition between the lawn and the taller plants in beds. Attractive foliage, colorful flowers and, at times, attractive fruit can add color and texture to an otherwise "green" landscape.

Groundcovers create various moods. Small-leaved, smooth-textured groundcovers used in broad, curved plantings convey a feeling of spaciousness. Whereas large-leaved, coarse-textured groundcovers create a feeling of closeness.

For more ideas on using groundcovers, visit From the Ground Up at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/groundcovers/. The site contains lots of information and a photo directory of 35 groundcovers.

Set Up: May 2 –All Day til 6 PM

(If you need to come before 8 AM call Brenda)

Date: May 3, 2008

Time: 7 AM-Sold Out

Be Here by 6:30 AM if possible

Get those plants separated, plant those seeds, take cuttings to start rooting or dig it up and repot those plants to make ready for the plant sale!

If you need help digging or carrying please call Brenda at 217-347-7773. There are several master gardeners who are willing to help in any way.

All plants will be taken-vegetable, ornamental, flowering, trees, herbs, grasses, perennials, annuals, vines, cactus, succulents, tropical, fruit-you got it, we will take it! Last year we had a banana tree!!!!!

The volunteer weather program is looking for weather observers to measure precipitation in Effingham, Teutopolis, Vandalia, Shelbyville, Pana, Casey, and other communities throughout central and southeastern Illinois. The only requirements for participation are an enthusiasm for watching and reporting weather conditions and a desire to learn more about how the weather can affect and impact our lives.

The more rainfall observers we have, the better we can describe the amount and extent of precipitation in Illinois'" says Steve Hilberg, Illinois CoCoRaHS Co-coordinator. "

Both Steve Hilberg and Jim Angel, Illinois State Climatologist will present an information and training session for anyone interested in participating in this program which will be held on Thursday, March 20, 7:00 p.m. at the Effingham County Extension Office, 1209 Wenthe Drive in Effingham.

To register or for more information on the session being held Phone: 217-347-7773 or register on Line: at: www.extension.uiuc.edu/effingham . Please Pre-Register by Noon March 19th.

Precipitation information is available to anyone through the CoCoRaHS web site www.cocorahs.org.

BeeSpotter is a partnership between citizen-scientists and the professional science community designed to educate the public about pollinators by engaging them in a data collection effort of importance to the nation. It is a web-based portal at the University of Illinois for learning about honey bees and bumble bees and for contributing data to a nationwide effort to baseline information on population status of these insects.

What Can You Do?

We have been receiving a number of queries from people wondering how they can get involved in this initiative. The best way to get involved is to get out there with your camera and capture some good pictures of bees! We want to get a better idea of bee demographics in the state of Illinois, and we can't do it without your help. In order to get your bee pictures on our website, just create an account and then add your bee spotting.

Designing a Bee Garden

Inviting an array of bees into your own backyard is simple when you plant their favorite flowers. By providing nectar and pollen as food and creating shelters in your garden space, you will create new habitat for bees, which is important, as their natural habitats become less and less abundant. Researchers have found that planting bee-friendly gardens in your community may increase the diversity of bees, even within the concrete-laden urban areas in which many of us reside. That's great news for beespotters

There are four essential elements for designing a bee garden:

1. Choose plants that are best suited for attracting bees in your region

2. Limit the use of insecticides that are toxic to bees and other beneficial pollinators

3. Provide shelter in your garden from elements such as wind, rain, or cold

4. Create habitat for the nest of the pollinator to support the entire life cycle of the pollinator from egg to larva to adult.

Choosing plants that attract bees

Select a variety flowers that are most attractive to bees and will bloom at different times throughout the year for a steady supply of nectar and pollen. The climate in your region, defined by the USDA plant hardiness zone map , will determine which flowers can survive and the timing of their flowering in your garden. Exotic plants that produce lots of nectar, like butterfly bush, are great for attracting bees and butterflies into your yard, but they often cannot support the entire life cycle of these insects. By opting for native plants, your garden will be attractive to adult bees that are foraging for nectar and pollen, but will also increase native habitat in your area for other wildlife, like caterpillars and birds.

When selecting flowers for your bee garden, it is important to recognize that flowers that employ melittophily, or bee pollination, often share particular traits that make them more attractive to bees. The suite of traits that are used by a flower to attract a specific group of animals as pollinators is called a pollination syndrome. These traits can include color, flower shape and size, the amount of nectar produced and the way pollen is presented.

Limiting the use of insecticides

Limiting the use of insecticides in your garden ensures that bees that you have invited into the garden are not accidentally poisoned by pesticides not intended for them. Native bees are attracted to your garden by the nectar and pollen, but they come into contact with any other chemicals that may be present. High doses of insecticides can kill foraging bees outright. Even low doses can have adverse effects. Low doses of insecticides can disrupt the innate orientation and navigation skills of the foraging bee, causing it to lose its way back to the nest. When the pesticide is brought back to the nest, it will be transferred to nestmates directly or incorporated into the honey, where it can alter the development in larvae into workers and queens, and thereby affect future generations of the colony. Practicing integrated pest management in your garden is the best way to limit the use of insecticides.

Creating habitat for the nest

At first, you may not like the idea of attracting stinging insects into the garden. Keep in mind that stinging is a defensive behavior used for defending the nest against predators. If you have ever watched a bee when it visits a flower, you may have noticed that it is often too busy to even notice you! Foraging bees are happy and curious, moving from one flower to the next, in search of nectar and pollen. They are not looking for a fight.

While most people are not equipped to raise honeybees in their backyard, creating nesting habitats for native bees is surprisingly simple. That's because many native bees make nests in old pieces of wood, cavities or even in the ground. These nests can be easily replicated with a few supplies and tools. The addition of nesting sites for native bees to your garden will intensify your beespotting experience beyond the average gardener. For more information on the construction of nests for wood-nesting, cavity-nesting and ground-nesting bees, check out this fact sheet from the Xerces Society.

Providing shelter from the elements

You do not have to uproot your current garden in order to attract more bees. Flowers that attract bees can be planted between existing flowers or potted and placed throughout your yard. Providing shelter for bees in the garden can be as simple as maintaining a garden full of spaces guarded from the elements. Keep in mind that a wide expanse of green grass or concrete does not offer protection from wind, rain and cold for a foraging bee.

	Flowers Bee visitors Color Season Origin Flower type Great Blue Lobelia (Campanulaceae) Bumble bees Anthophoridae Halictidae blue late summer into fall native Wild Lupine (Fabaceae) Bumble bees Anthophoridae Megachilidae Halictidae blue mid to late May native Lead Plant (Fabaceae) Long-tongued bees Short-tongued bees purple early summer native White Wild Indigo (Fabaceae) Bumble bees white May to July native Partridge Pea (Fabaceae) Honey bee, Bumble bees Anthophoridae Megachilidae Halictidae yellow summer to fall native Hardy Ageratum (Asteraceae) Honey bee, Bumble bees Anthophoridae Megachilidae Halictidae blue summer to fall native Stiff Goldenrod (Asteraceae) Honey bee, Bumble bees Anthophoridae Megachilidae Halictidae Colletidae yellow August to September native Showy Goldenrod (Asteraceae) Honey bee, Bumble bees Anthophoridae Megachilidae Halictidae Colletidae Andrenidae yellow July to September native Coneflower (Asteraceae) Honey bee, Bumble bees Anthophoridae Megachilidae Halictidae Andrenidae purple June to October native Wild Bergamot (Lamiaceae) Honey bee, Bumble bees Anthophoridae Megachilidae Halictidae Andrenidae Colletidae pink July to September native Columbine (Ranunculaceae) Bumble bees Halictidae orange-red April to May native Horsetail Milkweed (Asclepiadaceae) Long-tongued bees Short-tongued bees white early to late summer native Butterfly-weed (Asclepiadaceae) Long-tongued bees Short-tongued bees yellow-orange June to August native Common Milkweed (Asclepiadaceae) Long-tongued bees pink, white June to August native Prairie Milkweed (Asclepiadaceae) Long-tongued bees Short-tongued bees pink June to July native Joe Pye weed (Asteraceae) Long-tongued bees Short-tongued bees mauve pink July to September native White Snakeroot (Asteraceae) Long-tongued bees Short-tongued bees white September to frost native Yellow Giant Hyssop (Lamiaceae) Bumble bees Colletidae Halictidae yellow July to September native Lesser Calamint (Lamiaceae) Bumble bees white June-October exotic Flower type key clustered flowers single flower rounded radial symmetry elongated Long-tongued bees Short-tongued bees Honey bees, Bumble bees, Carpenter bees (Apidae) Digger bees (Anthophoridae) Leaf-cutting bees (Megachilidae) Andrenid bees, Small Miner bees (Andrenidae) Plasterer bees, Masked or Yellow-faced bees (Colletidae) Sweat bees (Halictidae)