University of Illinois Extension

Master Gardener Meeting

Effingham County

Tuesday November 13^th, 2007

Purnima Shah called the meeting to order at 6:40. Present were Betty Boos, Normalie Strickland, Brenda Roedl, Purnima and Rita Kemme.

Minutes

Minutes of the October meeting were reviewed. Normalie moved that they be approved and Betty seconded. Motion carried.

Financial

Financial statement was reviewed and shows that we now have spent the $2000.00 of the Grant money for the cross. These invoices can now be sent to Trees Forever for reimbursement. Financial statement is attached.

Old Business

None noted.

Brenda's Notes

Cross: It was the consensus of those present that the volunteer bricks also be placed around the cross. The donation bricks have been placed around the cross, although there is talk that they may be redone. If this is the case, the volunteer bricks could be incorporated in the plan.

Office Help: If anyone has any time there is a large stack of papers that need to be filed.

Jr. Master Gardeners: No report.

November –December events: November 26^th is a craft night at the extension. Gift wrapping and Christmas ideas. Public is welcome.

December 11^th, is energy conservation and public is welcome.

December 13^th, Brenda will give a presentation of the Cross project to members of the Building Association at their Christmas party.

Other: Master Gardener training will be held in Effingham this year starting Jan, 16^th, 2008 and running to April 16^th, 2008.

Telenets will start again in Jan. 2008.

The State Master Gardener conference will be held in Effingham on September 10, 11, and 12, 2009. We will be planning a tour of area sights.

New Business

Christmas Party: We decided to have the event catered this year, possibly by Rexroat's. Invitations will be sent so that we can have a firm number for the attendance. Brenda will show a Power Point on the Cross. Since the energy program is on the 11^th, it was decided to have our party on Wednesday, the 5^th of December. Hopefully this will enable some of the members to come who have Tuesday commitments. Hope to see you then.

Adjournment

The meeting was adjourned at 8 P.M. with a motion from Betty and a second from Normalie.

Submitted by: Rita Kemme, secretary

Calling all Master Gardeners,

Join in the fun on Dec. 5, 2007

We've planned a catered dinner, presentation on our progress at the Cross and

plenty of great ideas and tips from fellow master gardeners.

Please RSVP to Brenda at 217-347-7773 by Nov. 30

- Brenda Roedl

The Four Seasons Gardening program is your chance to learn from some of Illinois' leading lawn and garden experts. Whether you need advice on caring for your trees, or you want ideas for container gardening, or you want to learn how to grow orchids, you'll get the answers you need at our Four Seasons Gardening program.

Three seminars for each of the four seasons are offered–that's a total of 12 different lawn and garden topics! Each topic is offered at two different times and is presented via teleconference by a University of Illinois Extension horticulture expert. You can attend any topic that interests you–whether it's just one or two sessions or the entire series.

Advance registration is needed one week before the session you plan to attend. Each session is $5. Or attend an entire season's 3-part series for just $10. For more details, contact the University of Illinois Extension

Effingham County Office at 217-347-7773.

The 4-Seasons Telenet Series if free to active Master Gardeners.

****Program offered in the evening only with minimum of 5 attendees.********

Horticulture Telenets

Winter Series

Healthy Soil Equals Healthy Plants

January 29 at 1 p.m. or January 31 at 7 p.m.

Feed the soil and you feed the plant. This session discusses what we do to our soil, why we do it, and how the plants respond.

Carnivorous Plants

February 12 at 1 p.m. or February 14 at 7 p.m.

The Venus Fly Trap is one well-known and exciting meat-eating plant. But did you know that there are more than 600 species of carnivorous plants? Attend this session to get a glimpse of the world of carnivorous plants and learn how to grow them.

Climbers and Twiners: Vines for the Home Garden

February 26 at 1 p.m. or February 28 at 7 p.m.

Let your gardens soar to new heights ... literally! Vines offer exciting diversity of leaves, flowers, fruit, and structure that add another dimension to your garden. Learn what to look for in vines, how to care for them, and how to choose vines for your landscape gardens.

Spring Series

Orchids 101

April 8 at 1 p.m. or April 10 at 7 p.m.

Have you ever wanted to grow orchids but been scared off by their "diva" reputation for high maintenance and a high price tag? Learn how to select orchids suitable for the home and how to keep them alive once you get them there.

Containers with Pizzazz

April 22 at 1 p.m. or April 24 at 7 p.m.

Tired of the same old plant containers on your porch, patio, or deck? Plan and plant for pizzazz! This session offers ideas for design, containers, and plant combinations.

A Palette of Annuals: From A to Z

May 6 at 1 p.m. or May 8 at 7 p.m.

Why limit yourself to marigolds when there are so many annuals for your garden. This session will cover old favorites as well as some of the newer introductions.

Summer Series

Roses

June 24 at 1 p.m. or June 26 at 7 p.m.

There are many types of roses available today. Learn how to select the right one for your garden. This session covers proper planting and care and some of the pests that are often found in the rose garden.

Late Summer and

Fall Blooming Perennials

July 8 at 1 p.m. or July 10 at 7 p.m.

Our fall gardens don't have to look tired and past their prime. Many plants are available to give you a fall "WOW" factor. Come learn how to rev up your fall garden.

Summer and Fall Blooming Trees and Shrubs

July 22 at 1 p.m. or July 24 at 7 p.m.

Trees and shrubs are the backbone of the home landscape. They are also a large monetary investment. This program takes a look at woody ornamentals that can flower from June to November. You'll learn about both the common and not-so-common trees and shrubs that can make a visual impact in your yard.

Fall Series

Tree Identification and Maintenance

September 16 at 1 p.m. or September 18 at 7 p.m.

Trees add value and beauty to the home landscape. At this program, you'll learn how to identify both common and uncommon trees, and you'll learn basic care techniques to help insure a long, healthy life for your trees.

Going Green with Evergreens

September 30 at 1 p.m. or October 2 at 7 p.m.

There are plenty of low maintenance, hardy evergreens you can add to your landscape. Think beyond yews and learn about other evergreens such as hemlocks and arborvitaes.

Backyard Composting

October 14 at 1 p.m. or October 16 at 7 p.m.

Fall is a great time to start a compost pile that will reward you with black gold–compost! Come learn how to make this natural soil amendment in your own backyard.

Around the holidays, we often see blooming plants that are members of the cactus family. The Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), the Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii), and the Easter cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaetneri) all look alike. The Schlumbergera species are native to the tropical forests of Brazil, while the Rhipsalidopsis species is native to the natural forests of Brazil.

These three species of cactus are members of the group of cacti called leaf cacti. The plant bodies are flattened and the leaves are actually stems. The flowers are produced from notches in these stems or from the tips. The fuchsia-like flowers are long lasting. They are usually pink, but modern hybrids include white, red, yellow, and purple varieties

The main difference between the Christmas and Thanksgiving cactus, and the Easter cactus is the time of bloom. As their common names suggest, the Thanksgiving cactus can bloom in late fall, one month before the Christmas cactus. The Easter cactus starts producing flower buds in February. Regardless of type, there are steps to follow to ensure bloom.

Flower bud initiation responds to cool temperatures and shortened day length. Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus should be left outdoors, away from artificial light until night temperatures dip into the 40s. At this time, they do best at temperatures between 50 and 65°F. Bring them in and place them in a cool area, keeping them away from all light between the hours of 5 p.m. and 8 a.m. , and water weekly. Avoid heating vents that can cause temperature fluctuations. The plants should come into flower sometime in December through January. If you want them to bloom sooner, start the cool temp/short day treatment earlier.

The Easter cactus requires a dry period. From October to November, very little water is required for flower bud initiation. Easter cactus should also be placed in the same cool area under shorter light periods at this time. In December, raise the temperatures to about 65°F. and water sparingly. Expect flowering around March.

When in flower, regardless of type, avoid high temperatures and heat fluctuations. Lack of flowering is directly related to the cool temp/short day treatment. The Easter cactus is a bit different since it is not a tropical plant. It therefore requires a dry period.

Pretty enough to inspire poets and adaptable enough to look good almost anywhere, daffodils are truly spring's indispensable flowers.Wordsworth, Spenser, Masefield, and even Shakespeare have glorified daffodils. On top of that, the fall flower-bulb gardener can choose from among more than 10,000 registered name varieties.

Making a choice from such a number of varieties for planting this fall could be bewildering. Dutch bulb growers, who supply most of the world's daffodils, offer a simple solution. They suggest gardeners become familiar with the major classes or divisions.

Individual varieties come and go, and many one-time favorites are now obsolete; but, the classes always remain. In fact, the major classes are well established and provide a solid basis for selection.

Daffodils are classified by the form or color of the flowers. Here is an outline of the major classes. It should be pointed out that daffodils are all "Narcissus" which is the scientific name for the plant genus.

Trumpet Daffodils. These are the familiar long cupflowers that comprise the basic "flower power" in every spring garden. They may be yellow (varieties such as King Alfred) or white (Mount Hood). They are valued for their size and tradition.

Large-Cupped Daffodils. Although the cup is shorter than Trumpet daffodils, it is still long in relation to the petals. Both cup and petals may be colored or only the cup colored with white petals. A daffodil is said be "colored" when any part is some color other than white.

Small-Cupped Daffodils. As the name implies, the cup is small–less than one-third the length of the petals. The petals may be the same color as the cup, or the cup may be colored and set off against white petals. Both cup and petals may be white in other varieties in this group.

Double Daffodils. Although there may be only a single flower to a stem, the flower is double–that is, there are more petals than normal which produce a bloom that resembles a full-blown rose. These sumptuous daffodils may be all yellow, yellow-petaled with an orange center, or have a colored cup against white petals.

Triandrus Hybrids. These daffodils are always white. They produce up to six flowers on one stem and are available in both small-cupped and long-cupped varieties. The petals are usually bent backwards or reflexed. "Thalia" is a well-known variety in this group.

Cyclamineus Hybrids. These charming dwarf daffodils have drooping orange-yellow cups and lemon-yellow petals, bent sharply backwards. "Baby Doll" and "February Gold" are two well-known examples.

Jonquilla Hybrids. Jonquils are familiar flowers, much appreciated for their fragrance. They are characterized by rush-like foliage and usually have several flowers on one stem. They are often a pale, buttercup yellow (Trevithian).

Tazetta. Also known as "Poetaz" daffodils, this group includes many doubles and produces clusters of flowers on one stem. Its color range is wide: yellow cup against white petals, orange cup and yellow petals, or all yellow.

Poeticus. The flowers in this class have white petals with shallow, saucer-like yellow cups edged by orange or red. These well-defined daffodils add a bright luminous note to spring gardens.

There are other divisions of daffodils, including many wild and hybrid forms. Some varieties bloom early; others, like those in the Tazetta or Poeticus groups, are late flowering.

Large daffodil bulbs should be planted 6 inches deep and 6 inches apart, while the smaller varieties are planted 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart.

When making your daffodil selections, choose a few varieties of both early and late blossoming. Make your selection based on their flowering time, either to complement tulips or other spring bulb flowers. They should be planted in groups or clusters of a dozen bulbs. Plant them "en masse" where they can be seen to their best advantage

Tis the season .... for poinsettia questions. Here's a quick rundown on some common questions you might get during the holiday season.

Are poinsettias poisonous?

Poinsettias are not poisonous. For more than eight decades, this rumor has continued to circulate because of one unfounded story in 1919: that an Army officer's 2-year-old child allegedly died after eating a poinsettia leaf. While never proved by medical or scientific fact and later determined to be hearsay, the story has taken on a life of its own. But, the defenders of the poinsettia have pulled out all the scientific stops to allay public fears.

The Society of American Florists (SAF) worked with the Academic Faculty of Entomology at Ohio State University (OSU) to test all parts of the poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima). OSU researchers established that rats exhibited no adverse effects–no mortality, no symptoms of toxicity, and no changes in dietary intake or general behavior patterns–when given even unusually large amounts of different poinsettia parts. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) accepts animal tests as valid indicators whether any product or natural growth is harmful to human health.

The OSU research was done more than 30 years ago, and other sources have continued to reinforce the poinsettia's safety.. According to the American Medical Association's Handbook of Poisonous and Injurious Plants, other than occasional cases of vomiting, ingestion of the poinsettia plant has been found to produce no effect.

After reviewing all available poinsettia-related information, the CPSC denied a petition in 1975 to require warning labels for poinsettia plants. Despite its continued circulation, the myth of the poinsettia is gradually losing steam.

Source: Society of American Florists. All that being said, poinsettias are not, of course, a food crop. So, they should not be eaten.

How do you get a poinsettia to bloom?

To get a poinsettia to re-flower you have to keep it in total darkness between 5 p.m. and 8 a.m. Start this around October 1 and continue until color shows on the bracts, usually around early to mid-December. Even brief

exposure to light can prevent flowering. Covering the plant with a light-proof bag and placing it in a closet might work. Night time temperatures above 70 to 75°F. can decay or prevent flowering.

How can I make my poinsettia last during the holiday season?

Place the poinsettia in a sunny window. Do not let any part of the plant touch cold window panes.

An indoor temperature of 60 to 70°F. is ideal for long plant life. High temperatures will shorten the life of the colorful bracts. Avoid temperature fluctuations and warm or cold drafts. Water only when the soil is dry.

Do not fertilize when the plant is in bloom.

Placing your poinsettia in a cool room, 55 to 60°F., at night will extend blooming time.

I want to keep my poinsettia plants. When can I take them outside?

Move the poinsettia plant outside when all danger of frost has passed. Place it in a sunny area but where it will get moderate shade in the afternoon.

Should I fertilize my poinsettia if I am keeping it past the holiday season?

Fertilize once a month with a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer.

How often should I water the poinsettia?

Be sure to remove foil covering drain holes before watering. Water only when the soil is dry. Do not let the poinsettia wilt. Do not let it sit with water in the saucer. Empty the saucer.

Master Gardener training sessions get underway January 15 in southern and south-central Illinois and run through mid-April. All sessions run from 9 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Locations are listed below. Be sure to promote the training in your area.

Locations

·Edwardsville area on Tuesdays

·Effingham on Wednesdays

·Marion or Murphysboro (TBD) on Thursdays

The complete training schedule, including dates and topics, can be found online at www.extension.uiuc.edu/mg/trainingschd.html

You might also check with the host site in your area and volunteer to assist if needed. And remember, you can sit in on any training sessions for a refresher–free of charge.

Most people think about fertilizing their lawns in the spring and early fall. But, Thanksgiving is also the time to think about applying fertilizer.

Late fall fertilizers are often called winterizer fertilizers or just winterizers. This may be the most important fertilizer you apply to your lawn–especially if you've never applied one.

Winterizers don't provide immediate results. You won't see anything this winter except maybe some granules here and there that don't work into the soil or break down with late fall and winter rains and snow. That's due to the nature of the fertilizer and the season of the year. The benefit of winterizers is what they do to the root system throughout the winter months and the effect on shoot development next spring.

The best winterizers are slow-release fertilizers, and usually low analysis, with nitrogen levels between 10 and 15 percent. Nitrogen is the first number listed on the fertilizer bag.

The fertilizer granules break down slowly over the late fall, winter and spring based on soil temperature, moisture and microbial activity. During this time, the roots, which are growing as long as the ground isn't frozen, are absorbing and storing the nutrients until the air temperature is ideal for the bluegrass, ryegrass or fescue to use it for shoot growth and green color.

When air temperatures finally warm in the spring, the stored nutrients are immediately available and the turf is green and thick– usually by mid-March. A thick stand also means less reliance on crabgrass preventers since crabgrass problems are minimized due to a lush turf.

Winterizers are put on a week after the last mowing of the year. Since the last mowing is difficult to predict, a better method would be to apply the winterizer to the lawn the weekend following Thanksgiving.

Most applications are based on 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet of turf. Like straight lawn fertilizers, most winterizers are formulated for this rate. Read and follow the directions on the label. And, it's a good idea to water in the winterizer before storing the garden hoses and sprinklers for the winter.

For more lawn care tips, check out our Fall Lawn Care Guide, available from your local Extension office, or online at http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/regions/SIfamily/tips/AroundtheHouse/FallLawnCareGuide.pdf

- David Robson, horticulture educator

Don't put that trowel and rake away just yet. It may be the end of gardening season, but it is the perfect time to prepare for next year. Taking care of a few details now means fewer chores and problems next spring.

How did your garden fare this year? Walk through the vegetable garden and take notes on plant location and overall performance. Sketch out the garden area. Crop rotation is important to control vegetable diseases. In the spring, you can refer to your sketch rather than rely on your memory–that way, you'll be sure to plant vegetables in different locations.

Annuals should also receive a year-end review. Note whether plants met your expectations–if performance was not satisfactory, you may need to try different plants and varieties next year. Perhaps a different location for certain varieties will improve performance.

Clean up the garden, removing all diseased plants. Healthy plant debris can be added to your compost pile. If any perennials have been seriously and routinely plagued with disease, now is the time to get rid of them before they spread problems to other plants.After the first frost, remove annuals and cut back tops of tall herbaceous perennials. Many gardeners prefer to leave perennials as they are, cutting them back in the spring. But, perennials taller than 3 feet will only flop over under the weight of snow and create an ideal cover for rodents.

Container plants should be pulled out of the container when they have been frost killed. If you want to save the soil for next year, store it in a dry area or cover it with plastic. If you're not saving the soil, add it to your compost pile and clean out the container with a mild bleach solution (9 parts water to 1 part bleach).

Dig up tender bulbs such as gladioli, dahlia and canna lilies. Dry them and store in a cool, but frost-free, area. Hardy spring-blooming bulbs such as daffodils, tulips and crocus should be planted now.

As you put away your garden tools for the year, be sure to clean them, wipe the metal blades with oil, and store them under cover so they are ready for next year.

- Martha Smith, horticulture educator

Q. When is the best time to cut back miscanthus–fall or spring?

A. Ornamental grasses need to be cut back sometime during the dormant season. Warm-season grasses like miscanthus turn brown with the first heavy freeze in the late fall. When this occurs, you have two choices. You can let the dry foliage stand through the winter as a unique feature in your yard. Or, you can cut the miscanthus to a 4-inch height in the fall. If you choose to let the grass stand through the winter, it needs to be cut back by early March before new spring growth starts. Failing to cut back the grass will result in delayed spring growth, and the plants will look messy as the spring growing season progresses.

Not all grasses need to be cut back. New plantings of cool-season grasses may not need clipping until the end of their second growing season. In some cases, cool-season grasses may not require cutting back if they maintain an acceptable appearance.

Cool-season grasses that have a raised crown should not be cut back to 4 inches. Blue Fescue and Blue Oat Grass should be cut back half their mature height, or they can be "combed," pulling out the old grass.You can feel a raised crown–the center feels like a raised lump about 2 to 3 inches high.On the other hand, Feather Reed Grass is a cool-season grass that can be cut back to 4 inches.

In a small garden, a pair of hand pruners will work well for cutting grasses. In larger areas, a string trimmer or electric hedge trimmers can do an adequate job. As soon as the temperature is adequate, new growth will start emerging through the grass stubble.

Some people ask about burning, but U of I Extension does not recommend burning the clumps. It's possible you can burn the fragile growing points and root system. Plus, most insurance companies would frown on the practice.

Q. In a recent issue of The Green Thumb, you advised that tomato cages be sanitized with a "light" bleach solution after the growing season was over. What does "light" mean? What are the proportions?

A. In the horticulture field, a "light" bleach solution usually means a 10% bleach/water solution.This is the

concentration normally used to sterilize garden equipment–such as when you are dipping or spraying–and is equivalent to 1 part household bleach to 9 parts of water.Use a higher concentration for dipping pruners between cuts when

disease is present, usually a 20% bleach/water solution (1 part bleach to 4 parts water).With this higher concentration, pruners should be well rinsed and oiled after final use to prevent corrosion from the bleach.

When sanitizing sensitive tissue, such as tender new growth for tissue culture, a 5% bleach/water solution (1 part bleach to 19 parts water) should be used to avoid any phytotoxicity.

- Answers provided by Martha Smith, David Robson and Elizabeth Wahle, horticulture experts