University of Illinois Extension

Master Gardener Meeting

Effingham County

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Purnima Shah called the meeting to order at 6:43 P.M. In attendance were Larry Johnson, Normalie Strickland, Leslie Niebrugge, Brenda Roedl, Purnima and Rita Kemme.

Minutes

The minutes of the June meeting were reviewed. Normalie made a motion to approve and Larry seconded. Motion carried.

Financial Report

The financial report was reviewed. Several corrections were noted. Brenda will go into detail with the secretary to correct these. Rita then moved to approve with corrections and Normalie seconded. Motion carried.

Old Business

Normalie is working on 2 vine articles for the newspaper.

Brenda's Notes

Cross: Wal-Mart has given us a truck load of bulbs of many varieties. Several were taken this evening to plant and to see about sprouting them before planting this fall. Dahlias, lilies, glads, Lily of the Valley, & peony, were a few of those received.

Office Help: Filing can be done and several other jobs would be available if you have a couple hours.

Jr. Master Gardeners: Tomatoes have been planted at the nursing home. If we have a cooler evening a meeting could take place at the home to suggest planting for the spots they would like to plant and create gardens.

Fairgrounds are looking ok except that some weeding needs to be done before the fair.

July Projects: Mystery camp days are scheduled for July 12th, 19^th, and 26^th. Anyone with any time, please call Brenda to help. Normalie will go to the Effingham Garden Club meeting on the 24^th to give a presentation on butterflies and answer any questions they may have.

Other: Recycling days are scheduled for July 20th to 23^rd at the Health Department. The next one would be October 19^th to 22^nd.

Radio Shack will take rechargeable batteries for recycling.

New Business

A recycling grant may be available which Purnima's son has found on the Internet. Brenda will get with him to check it out.

Next Meeting

The August meeting is scheduled for the 14^th. The meeting was adjourned at 8:30 with a motion by Leslie and a second by Normalie. Members viewed the bulbs after the meeting.

By now, you know that Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) was found in northwest Illinois. Residents throughout the state have been on the lookout for this small (½ inch), metallic-green beetle. EAB has only one host and that is the Ash tree, Fraxinus genus to be specific. In Illinois, the White Ash, Fraxinus americana, and Green Ash, Fraxinus pennsylvanica, are the primary species. Tree owners may be more familiar with a cultivar name. There are many in the trade. Popular cultivars are 'Autumn Blaze,'

'Autumn Purple,' 'Autumn Applause,' 'Marshall's Seedless,' 'Patmore,' or 'Summit.' They are all members of the Fraxinus genus.

Consider Fraxinus as your last name. White Ash (Fraxinus americana) and Green Ash (Fraxinus pennsylvanica) are siblings just as Joe Smith and John Smith are brothers. Nieces and nephews are comparable to cultivars. They are all related. Emerald ash borer attacks only Fraxinus members. Compare it to a fly that could only bite people with the last name of Smith. No one else would be bothered.

Mountain Ash is a small ornamental tree with clusters of red, orange or yellow fruits. It is a member of the Sorbus genus and not susceptible to emerald ash borer attack. Mountain Ash are prone to attack from other types of borers. There is no need to contact the authorities if borer holes are present on a Mountain Ash. Your U of I Extension office can help you identify the pest and provide possible control recommendations.

Both trees have similar looking foliage. Both have compound leaves, which means a single leaf is made up of several leaflets. However, there is a distinct difference to help you identify what type of "Ash" you have. Fraxinus members have opposite buds. Look at the branch and notice if the leaves emerge from the stem directly opposite from each other.

Sorbus members have alternate buds meaning they are not directly across from one another along a stem. To help you identify your tree, visit UI Plants at http://wp.nres.uiuc.edu.

So far, EAB has not been found outside the original sighting area in northwest Illinois. As a Master Gardener, you are an important part of the statewide watch-group for EAB. When faced with borer holes on a tree remember, "When is an ash not an ash?"

For more information, check out the Emerald Ash Borer website at www.emeraldashborer.info/index.cfm. You might also want the Michigan State University bulletin, "Distinguishing Ash from other Common Trees,"

www.emeraldashborer.info/files/E2892Ash.pdf.

June marks the end of asparagus cutting season. Now is the time to think ahead to next year's harvest and take measures to improve and maintain vigor in the planting. From now until the first freeze in the fall, asparagus plants are building and storing reserves, and developing the crown buds that will become the spring shoots of 2008. The degree of sugar and carbohydrate build-up achieved this year influences the quantity and quality of spears next year.

In weakened asparagus beds, spears become small, thin, and spindly. This weakened state is often a result of cutting too long into the summer in previous years and not caring properly for the planting. On a mature, healthy planting, six to eight weeks of cutting is easily tolerated. Low fertility, root and foliage diseases, and insect damage can also weaken the planting and be responsible for poor production. Even though asparagus is winter hardy, severe and sudden drops in temperatures can damage older crowns in shallow plantings. Over time and as plants age, crown depth can decrease as the crowns slowly "creep" upward and become more exposed to sudden soil freezing events.

Reduced spear size is not always related to adverse growing conditions. It is also related to the sex of the plant. Asparagus plants are male and female. Female plants have thinner spears and produce red berries. Male plants also flower but do not fruit, thus expend less energy on reproduction; they develop fewer but thicker spears.

Male plants are preferable, but how can you select for them? With new crowns or seed of older varieties like 'Mary Washington,' usually a mix of male and female plants occurs, but there is no way to tell the sex of the plants until they flower.

Newer "all male" hybrids are now available on the market and are being widely planted. Developed by breeders in New Jersey, the series of asparagus varieties with 'Jersey' in the name are available in most garden catalogs. Varieties that perform well in the Midwest include 'Jersey Knight,' 'Jersey Giant,' 'Jersey Supreme,' and 'Jersey King.' In addition to having larger spears, these hybrids have considerable tolerance to root rotting and foliar rust diseases.

New asparagus beds need several years of growth before abundant, thick spears are produced. Good management of the foliage during the summer and fall months is required, with a focus on providing adequate fertility, managing foliar disease and insect damage, and limiting weed pressure. A well-planted and maintained asparagus bed should be productive for 20 to 30 years or more.

To maintain fertility, apply a surface application of fertilizer after the last cutting is made. Apply well-rotted compost or manure, covering the soil 1 to 2 inches deep in a 2-foot wide area over the row. If manure is not available, apply commercial fertilizer such as 12-12-12 using 1 cup of material for every 10 feet of row. Avoid contact with emerging shoots and stems. When manure is used, cut chemical fertilizer amounts in half.

Research has shown that asparagus responds variably to fertilizer applications. If vigorous growth is occurring, a light fertilizer application may be adequate. It may be more efficient to apply some fertilizer in the very early spring before first spear emergence and again after

harvest, especially on lighter soil types. Keep in mind that spring- and post-harvest fertilizer application will not improve the current season's crop. Instead, it increases growth and vigor of the tops or 'ferns' from now until fall, improving next year's crop.

Weed control is also essential to maintain vigor. In large plantings, herbicides containing trifluralin (Preen™) can be used to control annual weeds. At one time, salt was commonly used to kill weeds in asparagus. However, prolonged use of salt leads to deterioration of the physical properties of the soil and a reduction in growth; thus, salt is not recommended.

Asparagus beetles and Japanese beetles are common pests. Insecticides such as carbaryl (Sevin™) and malathion (Fertilome Malacide™) can be used for control. Apply when feeding and presence of the beetles is noted.

There are also foliar diseases (rust and leaf spot) that can brown and discolor foliage, reducing theplant's capacity to photosynthesize and build reserves. As noted, the hybrid varieties have some level of resistance. Use a fungicide containing chlorothalonil (Daconil™) at monthly intervals after harvest to help suppress these diseases.

Because hybrid plants are larger, initial spacing at planting can be wider (5- to 6-foot-wide rows, plants 18 to 24 inches apart) than non-hybrid plants. This wider spacing allows more room for the plants and increases air movement in the planting, which helps reduce foliar disease.

Asparagus is an easy crop to grow, needing only minimal maintenance to ensure a successful crop from year to year. Attention to fern care during the summer months will return a plentiful harvest of spears next spring. For more information on asparagus and other vegetable crops, check out the University of Illinois publication, "Vegetable Gardening in the Midwest" or visit the U of I Extension website "Watch your Garden Grow" at: www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/veggies.

Summer's heat and dry conditions cause noticeable browning on tree and shrub leaves, especially starting at the margins and moving toward the veins. This is leaf scorch. Symptoms of leaf scorch vary from plant to plant depending on the situation. Tulip trees may drop large quantities of yellow leaves that show no browning or drying.

Other plants, such as maples and oaks, are picture-perfect in their symptoms.Scorch occurs because large amounts of water have evaporated from the leaf surface. Roots are unable to supply enough water to the leaf to compensate for this loss. The only solution the plant has is to reduce its leaf surface area. It does this by sacrificing its outer leaf edges.

In some cases, there may be enough water in the soil; it's just that the plant can't replace what's lost as fast. This is quite common with many of the large-headed hydrangeas, especially those that are pink or blue. Plants may look wilted and recover, but you'll notice lots of spots on the leaves.

If insects, disease, or a root injury have weakened a tree, the plant will be more susceptible to leaf scorch. Also, newly transplanted trees will tend to scorch more than vigorously growing trees because of their un-established root systems.

Tree roots surrounded by asphalt and concrete are more likely to exhibit symptoms, partially because of reflected heat and partially because the roots have a difficult time getting moisture. When scorch appears, the tree may drop some leaves. This will not endanger or harm the tree. Don't worry that the tree is dying; it's a natural process. There isn't much that can be done to avoid leaf scorch. If Mother Nature doesn't provide adequate rainfall, thoroughly water trees every two weeks. Use a sprinkler or drip irrigation hose at the drip-line of the tree. Sprinklers should be left on for several hours. Drip irrigation hoses may need to be left on for an entire day. The goal is to saturate the root zone.

Avoid fertilizing or encouraging rapid growth with trees that have experienced scorch or those trees in a confined area where water uptake may be limited.

Recently, calls have come in about a new Hardiness Zone Map. Some media outlets have reported that Illinois is no longer USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 5 and 6 with an average cold temperature between -10 and -20°F, but rather National Arbor Day Foundation Zone 6 with an average annual cold temperature of 0 to -10°F.

The National Arbor Day Foundation has released their own hardiness zone map that they feel reflects a warmer climate. An article that appears on their website states, "(Their) new map reflects that many areas have become warmer since 1990 when the last USDA hardiness zone map was published. Significant portions of many states have shifted at least one full hardiness zone. For example, much of Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio have shifted from Zone 5 to a warmer Zone 6."

The basis for the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone map is that plants can be classified as either hardy or non-hardy depending on their ability to withstand cold temperatures. The USDA map reflects only average minimum winter temperatures for a given area. It does not take into consideration temperature fluctuations, humidity, or summer temperatures.

The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is recognized throughout the horticultural industry for cold temperature hardiness. Other types of maps have been introduced, including the American Horticultural Society (AHS) Heat zone map and the Sunset Climate Zone map. These maps take into consideration other growing factors besides cold.

The AHS Heat Zone map was intended to counterbalance the limitations of the USDA map regarding summer temperature extremes. At temperatures above 86°F (30°C), photosynthesis shuts down in many plants. During the long, hot days of summer, plants may have to rely on stored energy reserves. The plant's ability to tolerate extended periods of heat is the basis for the AHS heat zone map. The United States is divided into zones based on the average number of days per year with temperatures above 86°F.

The Sunset Climate Zone map incorporates the total climate when determining zones across the U.S. This map was created looking at length of growing season, timing and amount of rainfall, winter lows, summer highs, and humidity. Taking all these factors into account, it is yet another tool to help determine the survivability of plant material across the U.S.

As people debate the issue of global warming, the conclusions are varied. By far, the majority of plant references currently in print use the USDA Plant Hardiness Map to identify zones based on cold temperatures. The AHS and Sunset maps have been created to take into consideration other growing conditions and complement the USDA map. The Arbor Day Foundation has started the global warming discussion for the green industry, but zone changes need to be accepted and promoted by all. So until this happens–if it happens–Central Illinois is still USDA Zone 5, and Southern Illinois is still USDA Zone 6.

National Arbor Day Foundation: www.arborday.org/index.cfm

USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map: www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html Sunset Climate Zones: www.sunset.com/sunset/garden/article/1,20633,845218,00.html

Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica) is a fairly new arrival to southern Illinois. It first appeared in New Jersey in the early 1900s. It is believed to have been imported on rose root stock from Japan, where it has natural predators that keep it in check. Unfortunately, it has no natural predators in the United States.

This insect has spread, on average, 5 to 10 miles per year and primarily resides in the eastern half of the U.S. In case you have not heard, Japanese beetles have a lot of people worried.

If you have not experienced them yet, they are easy to identify–shiny, coppery green with a row of five white hair tufts running along the side of the abdomen. In addition, two tufts occur on the top of the abdomen. The Japanese beetle is approximately 1/3 inch in length. The larvae are grubs that have a whitish-gray color. You can distinguish them from other turf-feeding grubs by the "V-shaped" pattern of hairs that appear on the underside of the hind segment. However, the "V" pattern may be difficult to see even with a hand lens.

So, just what do these insects do that has so many people concerned? Japanese beetles are chewing insects that destroy leaves, flowers, and fruits. Unfortunately, they have an appetite for many ornamental landscape plants. But they don't stop there. They will also feed on such plants as grapes, peaches, and the silk and ear tips of corn. They are so destructive that they can literally eat a leaf and only leave the vein skeleton in a matter of a few hours. Furthermore, they may attack one plant in mass while leaving another plant a few feet away unharmed.

This insect has a one-year life span. It spends approximately ten months feeding and over-wintering in the soil as a grub. In southern Illinois, Japanese beetles start to emerge during the last part of June; by July and August, they are in full swing. Eggs are laid in the soil during this time.

For chemical-free home garden control, Japanese beetles can be hand picked. Mix a jar of soapy water and drop them into it. If you elect to control Japanese beetles with chemicals, carbaryl, which goes by the brand name of Sevin, is a good choice to control the adults in the home garden. Carefully read the application directions and follow all specifications.

For further information, contact your local U of I Extension office. Or, log on to www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/bugreview/japanesebeetle.html.

- Tony Kahtz, University of Illinois/Land of Lincoln AmeriCorps

The dry, warm June weather was nearly ideal for garden tomatoes. Diseases and insect problems have been slow to occur under these conditions in most central and southern Illinois gardens. But, recent rain, heat, and high humidity have the potential to increase disease and insect problems; that means gardeners need to keep a close eye on tomato plants.

Tomatoes can be productive. Depending on the variety, you can expect 10 or more pounds of fruit per plant. For optimum production through the entire season, you need to maintain good fertility, even soil moisture, and keep the leaves on the plant using good disease and insect control practices. Leaf retention is especially important because leaves keep tomato fruit nourished and growing, and they also help shade the fruit from direct sun and protect from sunburning.

After the first fruit are set, side-dress plants with fertilizer that contains nitrogen. Apply 2 to 3 tablespoons of a general purpose fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, per plant when fruit are golf ball size. Make at least two more additional applications at 3- to 4-week intervals to keep late-season varieties productive into the fall. Soluble fertilizers such as Miracle Gro™ are a good alternative to dry fertilizers, and they have the added advantage of foliar uptake.

Avoid over-fertilizing, which causes large plants with many leaves and suppresses flower formation and fruit set. Over-fertilized plants also tend to have a higher percentage of blossom end rot, a common tomato disorder related to poor calcium uptake in the fruit. Excess leaves tend to trap calcium, creating a shortage in the fruit. This causes a collapse of cell walls and rot at the bottom of the tomato. The tendency for blossom end rot is variety related and also seasonal, with the earliest fruit usually exhibiting this problem. Foliar calcium sprays can help reduce blossom end rot but should be directed toward young, green fruit where it can be directly absorbed. Calcium sprays directed at foliage have no effect on this disorder.

Maintaining adequate soil moisture during the summer is also important. Tomatoes prefer even moisture, and fluctuations between dry and wet conditions should be avoided. Mulching helps to keep soils moist between rain showers and watering. Steady soil moisture also helps decrease the incidence of blossom end rot, allowing more even uptake and translocation of calcium into developing fruit.

Lastly, insects and foliar disease should be managed to retain leaves. Insects such as tomato hornworm, Colorado potato beetle, aphids, whiteflies, and mites should be monitored and controlled before they damage leaves. Apply appropriate insecticides when these insects are present.

Warm, dry weather helps to reduce disease on tomato foliage, while rainy and humid weather creates ideal conditions for fungal blight infection. Most commonly, early blight and septoria spot are the first diseases to appear on tomatoes. Both of these fungal blights begin on the lower leaves of the plant where spores have been splashed from the soil onto the plant from rainfall. Secondary infection spreads to other leaves from infected lower leaves,

These foliar blights require immediate attention or they will gradually progress upward on the plant, defoliating it by the end of the season. Early infections should be monitored. Remove spotted lower leaves from the plants and bury or compost them. Fungicide sprays are effective at preventing initial infections and slowing the spread when the disease sets in. Look for products that contain chlorothalonil, mancozeb, or other fungicides labeled for tomatoes. Alternate fungicide products to reduce resistance build-up by the fungus.

Follow product directions and make applications on a regular basis (every 7 to 14 days, weather dependent) through the remainder of the growing season. Fungicides are particularly effective when applied before a rain. Mulches may also slow initial infection by preventing soil splashing; however, spores can be blown in from outside locations, such as a neighbor's poorly tended garden, resulting in infection anywhere on the plant. Bacterial infection can also be a problem on tomatoes, and diseases such as bacterial spot or speck on the fruit and leaves can be suppressed with copper-containing materials.

If you find that diseases overwhelm your plants even with fungicide applications, try varieties that have some resistance to these blights. Many varieties in the home garden trade are older types, sold mostly because of name recognition and known fruit quality. However, many of these varieties have limited disease resistance compared to newer varieties. The 'Mountain' varieties ('Mtn. Fresh' and 'Spring') are examples of tomatoes known for their blight tolerance and are a favorite of commercial tomato growers.

Controlling diseases and insects, and maintaining adequate fertility and moisture will help ensure a successful tomato growing season. For more information, check out the University of Illinois publication, Vegetable Gardening in the Midwest, available from your county U of I Extension office. Or, visit the Watch Your Garden Grow website at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/veggies.

- Tony Bratsch, horticulture educator

Q. I have just been puzzling over damage to my green beans, okra, melons, and peppers.I have seen these beetles about all spring. I haven't actually seen them on the plants ... the damage seems to be on new leaves of the above mentioned plants.The leaves look strange. The veins are twisted looking, and the leaves seem twisted and curled.It seems to have affected everything but the tomatoes.Since I can't find any pests on the leaves, I feared some sort of soil borne disease.Is all lost or can I treat with something?I would prefer an organic solution; I usually don't have to use anything.I noticed a great deal of aphids on my tomatoes and a few whiteflies as well, but I've also seen a few lady bugs and was hoping that would take care of those.I would appreciate any suggestions.

A. What you describe is usually the result of aphids or thrips, both small, slow-moving insects.Since you are looking for a more organic solution, you may want to consider using an insecticidal soap. Insecticidal soap works on the drowning principal (too small and slow to get out of the soap), as opposed to poisoning the insect or insect relative. Insecticidal soap should be readily available at the local garden center.

Q. For several years, our farm pond has been covered with duckweed.We are trying to raise pan fish, but the duckweed makes fishing a challenge.Is there an organic way to deal with this problem?

A. Controlling duckweed is a real challenge, and the only organic method is to skim it off the surface of the pond. On a windy day, it usually gets blown to one corner of the pond, and that is probably the best time to scoop it out.Purdue has a good fact sheet on duckweed: www.btny.purdue.edu/pubs/APM/APM-2-W.pdf.

- Answers provided by Extension specialists Elizabeth Wahle and George Czapar